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Drives

Found 132 results

  1. Greetings all, I was pretty unhappy with the way my truck drove. I have a 19 LT (5.3) and I put a set of Trail Boss wheels/tires (275/65/18) on it. But, I noticed that no matter the size of a bump I went over the rear end swayed and the front bounced for what seemed like 20 minutes. Some bumps felt like my eyeballs were going to pop out of my head. Living in Los Angeles the freeways and streets are terrible, so I was in the market to get new shocks to help with the ride. I ended up getting the Bilstein 5100s. I got the adjustable height front strut and eliminated the ready lift under strut 2” spacer. I kept the truck level and set at the 2” lift position. I also installed Cognito tubular upper control arms. I was thinking about lifting in the future, so it made sense to install at the same time. I ditched the 275/65/18 DuraTrac tires and got 295/70/18 Atturo Trail Blade XT (I’d be happy to give initial thoughts on these tires, I have about 1,000 miles on them now). They are about a 34.5” tire but only about 11.5” wide. Separate topic of course. These shocks have GREATLY improved the ride quality of the truck on both street and highway. I would highly recommend these shocks if you are in the market. Best bang for the buck. I have driven about 1,000 miles of combined city/highway and they are worth every penny. Even my wife has noticed how much smoother it drives. If you have any questions about the shocks or tires I’m here to help!
  2. TLDR version - 2015 Yukon Denali with 20inch wheels and 86k miles. Great ride initially, font struts replaced 3 times for leaking since 50k and ride quality horrible. First post after years of learning from the great people on this forum. Have an early 2015 Yukon Denali which had a lot of the initial growing pains for a new model but nothing major. Fast forward to just past 50k miles and ride becomes bumpy to almost violent at times. Dealer replaced front struts which had begun leaking. Ride improved a little but things like speed bumps would throw everyone side to side as well as parking garages with small imperfections that would bounce you out of your seat at 10mph and lower. Most of my miles are highway and beltway at speeds between 65 and 75. This is where the car feels every bump and seems to react side to side rather than up and down. fast forward to 70k+ and ride has gotten worse. Took to different dealer who identifies front struts leaking again and replaces them under extended warranty. Small improvement at highway speeds, but forget about speed bumps or neighborhood roads or driveways with small imperfections. just hit 86k and have now had the struts fail and replaced for 3rd time since the 50k mark. Ride quality has not Improved and actually believe the side to side motion is worse after hitting a imperfection or small bump. Extended warranty expires at 94k at which time I cannot afford to keep replacing $1800 worth of struts every 10-15k. Reaching out for any suggestions or experiences that might help identify what happened to the ride quality. The service department is at a loss.
  3. Looking for suggestions on front coilovers for 2014 SIlverado 4x4, I currently have a 3" motofab level kit installed including aftermarket Motofab UCA (Which I am not happy with and will be swapping out) Nevertheless I would like to maintain the 3" lift but go away from the spacer to a coilover kit without breaking the bank. I have been looking at the following and interested in feedback outside of going to a full blown 4" lift which I'm trying to stay away from but not opposed too either. Also to mention this is my daily driver so more on road than off road use. Bilstein 6112- won't get me to 3" only 2.75 at highest setting (maybe) Eibach Pro-truck Coilovers 1.75-4" $850 which I'm leaning towards due to price but not familiar with the coilovers I know Eiback makes a good spring which is used on several other brands including FOX Zone Coilovers 0-3" around $2K to purchase (Ouch) Icon 1-3" Coilovers about $1720 these are just a few I have researched but open to thoughts and suggestions and looking forward to the feedback, I'd like to stay under a thousand if possible.
  4. So I have a 05 Gmc and I want to upgrade the front suspension specifically the shocks it has a 6" lift on 35s any suggestions
  5. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  6. Hey guys, I just got my truck leveled or lifted whichever you want to call it. I went with the rough country 3.5inch lifted struts and their upper control arms. I have 2wd so I don’t need any diff drops because I don’t have a front diff. Anyhow after I got everything installed with wheels as well (22x14) I started to hear this clunk/pop sound when I would turn the wheel. Sometimes it does it when I turn right or left. Sometimes it does it when I’m almost at full lock or just a slight turn of the wheel. I had the guys check it out and they said it was worn endlinks so I replaced those but now it still makes the noise. Any suggestions what it could be? It was not making this noise before the lift. They said it is normal to hear noises when lifting a truck because it’s not longer fully “stock” and won’t be again. But I don’t believe that. Am I worried about the sound or should I just not let it bother me? Any suggestions on what it could be would be great thanks!
  7. Does anyone know if the front struts, rear shocks and blocks from a 2020 fit on my Sierra 1500?
  8. I’m shopping lifts for my 2015 Silverado Z71. Yes I know BDS is the best, and everyone loves Zone, and most people hate RC.... but what about Pro Comp? 4wheelparts suggested their 6” Pro Comp with new struts, upgraded shocks, improved ride quality etc (they own pro comp so I’m not surprised). Seems like a good price and 4wheelparts is a reputable installer with their own warranty on labor/workmanship, which is a nice piece of mind. the kit looks good and I have yet to find aNy bad reviews about pro comp on the web...but that’s the problem.. I can’t find ANY reviews about 2014-2018 GM Pro Comp 6” lift. here is a link to the kit I’m considering. Thanks in advance. I’m planning on running 35s https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-comp-6-inch-lift-kit-with-pro-runner-shocks-k1171bps/_/R-DFCW-K1171BPS
  9. All parts came off 2017 Silverado LTZ 4x4 with 15K miles. Located in Los Angeles. Would prefer local pick-up but will ship if buyer pays for shipping. Front strut assembly with 2.5 in Motofab leveling kit installed (Pair) - $150 obo - SOLD OE Rear Shocks (Pair) - $50 obo OE Front Knuckles (Pair) - $50 obo
  10. I replaced all ball joints on my 1999 GMC Sierra Z71 days ago. I ensured they were greased, and they all went in fairly easy. However, I have noticed the steering is noticeably tighter going down the road after this was done to the truck. I would describe the steering as stiff and much less responsive due to this tight feel, and because it is so tight it will not naturally rotate back to center after a turn. It tries to but the steering is just too tight. I figured I probably tightened the upper control arm before I tightened the lower but I went back and reassessed that. It did help a bit but it still about the same. If my memory serves me right, I can remember before I assembled everything back before I tightened the upper control arm and the tie rod, it moved freely and easily with just the bottom ball joint tightened down but when everything else was on it, it was near impossible to make the wheels turn in and out by hand, even with the wheel unlocked and on jack stands. I been continuously researching about this, and I've seen it to be a common issue but I can't figure out exactly why without everyone contradicting one another on other various forums. I did get both the bottom and upper control arms really tight with a wrench. that might be where I messed up because I know a castle nut isn't exactly meant to be extremely tight but then again, I don't know if that would have any effect on this issue. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the sequence or how I put the upper control arm back down in. Anyone experience this?
  11. I was looking at calibrations for my 2015 GMC Yukon Denali's ESCM (Z95) and noticed there's a listing but the calibration ID's are not sequential and the latest one it recommends is a lower numerical value than the one that may fix an issue I have. Is this normal? Any explanation for the ordering? I posted this in the K2XX forum but this one appears more appropriate so sorry for the spam. I believe I have the original calibration and think 23452750 may fix my issue. Does the "current"/top one include all the fixes in the below or are they all different and you pick the one that addresses your issue? I won't be applying this, likely taking to the dealer and just want to be informed.
  12. Anyone familiar with GM Calibrations and their numbering? I'm having some rough ride issues on my 2015 GMC Yukon Denali w/Z95 and looked up the calibrations and there appears to be one that may address my issue. But I also noticed the calibration history on TIS doesn't seem sequential and the "current" calibration offered is not sequentially higher than the one to "reduce suspension shake" Are the numbers usually somewhat random like this or did they revert to an old calibration due to issues with the higher sequential numbered ones? TIS Site for those not familiar - https://tis2web.service.gm.com/tis2web/
  13. Sorry for the long post. This has been a headache to try and find “factual” information on instead of “opinions”. I have a 2019 Silverado work truck V-6 , 6 speed, with 3:42 gearing. I have a stock suspension. The 2019 work truck comes with three tire options From factory. 1. 17" 255/­70R17 all-season, blackwall tires (my current tire) 2. 17" 265/­65R17 all-terrain, blackwall tires 3. 17" LT265/­70R17C all-terrain, blackwall tires However, ... the Silverado Custom (with the same 3:42 gearing) comes with the following tire opens. 1.20” 275/­60R20 all-season, blackwall tires 2. 20”275/­60R20SL all-terrain, blackwall tires 3. 22” 275/­50R22SL all-season, blackwall tires My current truck has the 17” 255/70R17 all seasons. I love my truck, but I absolutely hate these tires/wheels. They look like baby wheels on a big truck. Way too much fender well free space. Looks like the truck missed “leg day“. My question is if I purchase the OEM wheels and tires for the custom, is there any issue with them fitting my work truck? As far as I know both trucks have the exact same suspension, body clearance, control arms, wheel well clearance, etc. I was looking at going with the 20”275/­60R20SL all-terrain, blackwall tires. The only changes that I could forsee that would happen are the following... 1. An increase in wheel diameter of current 31.1” increasing to 33”. 2.a width increase from 10” to 10.8” 3. A sidewall decrease from 7” to 6.5” 4. A revs/mile decrease from 650 to 612 (affecting speedometer speed by .058%) 5. A new effective gear ratio of 3.22:1 6. A change in tire run pressure from 35psi to 32psi. (Annoyingly setting of my TPMS “low pressure” alarm ) several questions.... 1.will these custom tires fit my work truck? I can’t Find any reason that they won’t 2. Will the dealer reprogram my speedometer for the percentage difference, and replacard/reprogram my ECM with the new psi setting to 32psi. (Not sure if they will since the Vin number of my truck does not include these tire size as “options“.) I really don’t want my low pressure alarm going off 24/7. 3. Will I noticed the change in new affective gear ratio from 3.42, to 3.22? (I’m assuming I won’t since it is the exact same gearing/tire size as the custom. Man, there sure is a lot to changing a tire size. Almost doesn’t even seem worth the trouble. Am I going down a bad rabbit hole? Just an FYI, I am not interested in lift kits, aftermarket speedometer programmers, etc. . Would like to stick OEM as much as possible.
  14. So I bought this 2015 Sierra and it needs ball joints replaced. Only problem is I can’t get a straight answer about If I need new upper control arms or stock ones put back in. It currently has Rough Country arms but when I asked RC they told me that they should not be installed. ALSO I’m not 100% sure in the size of the lift. RC says it’s a 5” but it doesn’t seem like it. Just looking for some input. Thanks
  15. Hey all, I have a 2019 trail boss with an awful noise anytime the rest suspension is used (all the time because you know...) I took it into the dealer and they "fixed" it with some grease.. but that has negative side effects, also it already wore off. So yeah. I just don't understand how this is even a thing. My 2013 didn't make any noises like this. My 2019 sounds like a 20 year old rust bucket. I went on Twitter, but now I question their ability to do anything. They are just going to tell the dealer to regrease it. Anybody else have this issue?
  16. I tow a 21 ft bay boat with 1500 sierra and need to add rear suspension kit / support to keep the rear end of the truck from squatting down. what is available that will not void any GMC warranties, etc?
  17. Hey guys, I've been asked in the past to start a build thread on here of my 19 Z71. Well, since she's going in the shop for suspension upgrades (Brenthal Industries) on Monday I thought now would be a good time to start with what I've done so far. Started Off: June 21, 2019 2019 Silverado 1500 Z71, LT, Crew Cab w/ 6' bed (hard to find), 5.3L, 8spd trans. BONE STOCK
  18. I have a serious issue going on with the lift issue I have run into with my brand new 1500. I just bought the truck and purchased the GM leveling kit and GM suspension lift that the dealer advised me on and would fit 35’s. They didn’t take into account that my truck had the max trailering suspension do none of it fit so they ordered the fabtech stealth 3inch lift kit and put it on and delivered the truck to me. I immediately noticed the lift didn’t clear the 35’s and it rubbed terrible so I sent it back to them. The lift they Put on was substantially cheaper than what I originally paid for so there is money in the deal to purchase whatever is needed so they advised I go with the basic 6inch kit from fabtech. I’m not sure that’s the best set up so I need advise. I only have till Monday morning to decide before they start putting on the 6inch lift so any advice on a different set up to get me roughly 4 to 5 inches and a better ride than the 6 inch lift please let me know! I have about $2600 to spend on the setup even if it’s keeping the stealth lift that’s on it and adding a different coil over setup. Please someone help me out.
  19. Adding a zone 6.5 inch lift on my 2014 sierra. It has roughly 135k miles on engine. I just replaced front struts and sway bar links (even though kit comes with new links)..realized that after fact. I have steel cast control arms and curious what I should replace? A lot of people on facebook suggest the congnito or zone upper control arms but they are $500 just for the set. I was wondering if I could replace just the ball joints/tie rod ends when I install kit and then down the road replace UCA's with cognito...or is the stock cast steel control arm and ball joint all one piece? Meaning i cant just replace the ball joint? Just looking for some feedback and suggestions. i will have my son in truck a lot so that is why i want to be extra sure I have a solid front end. Any feedback, your pictures of 6.5 inch lifts, and experience with maintenance is appreciated. Been awhile since i posted on here!!
  20. My Canyon, Off Road Model has 158,000 miles very good tires and shocks seem firm. But the ride on bumpy suburban roads is horrible Please offer possible solutions thanks Ron Anderson
  21. I am looking for an explanation as to how a front 1.5 " level impacts your truck. I love the "lifted" look with a slight rake for carrying the odd load. I currently have 255/70r/17 tires and will not be going any larger than a 265 so I know I don't need a "lift". I have read and participated in the huge thread about leveling on this forum but somehow I haven't enough information to make the move. I understand that installing a spacer at the bottom of the front shocks is the most cost effective way to lift but what are the trade-offs? Do I lose 1.5"s of suspension travel? I have heard it makes no difference. What actually happens to create the lift? This is purely a modification to enhance the looks of my truck but I don't want to do it at the cost of losing function.
  22. Who has replaced their factory rear driveshaft: Why? What brand or what type of custom build? Type of mods to driveshaft? Steel vs. Aluminum heavier/thicker walled/stronger Length added to accommodate lift kit? Heavier U Joints? Two piece? Cost? Results? Additional Advice or comments? Feel free to add in any field I neglected to mention. *I searched, but did not find a dedicated replacement driveshaft thread.
  23. Hello everyone, First, I'm not experiencing any handling problems with my truck. As a Pro preventative maintenance guy, PLUS we pull a 29' TT RV, I am looking at two areas of upgrades. At 67K miles I'm replacing the rear OEM shocks with Bilstein 5100. Also this truck runs a daily GVW of 6700 lbs. with Leer cap, cargoglide, & tools. So I am also considering adding Roadmaster Active Suspension. I like the ability of adjusting the Active suspension for ride control, PLUS it has a 30 Day MBG! Any thoughts or suggestions about the Roadmaster?
  24. Hello all, I’m sorry if this isn’t posted in the right section but I couldn’t find any results for the problem I’m having. So a little bit of back story.... I have a 2005 Silverado 1500 2wd with 180,xxx miles on it, It’s a good old girl. I recently had a lot of work done to the front end, new rack and pinion assembly, new coils, shocks, spindles, new ucas, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends. I had a shop install on the parts because I don’t have a driveway to work in right now. All the parts replaced were stock oem parts, so well worn out. The truck rides great now much more controlled and steering feel is firm. But I noticed there is about an inch of free play in the steering wheel ( no resistance, no moving the wheel in the free play). What do y’all think it could be? I checked the intermediate steering shaft for play and it is moving with the u-joint at the rack and pinion. Can the gear box be adjusted? Thank y’all for your insight. I don’t just want to fire the parts cannon in vain. Again thank you for all the help!
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