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Drives

  1. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  2. Greetings all, I was pretty unhappy with the way my truck drove. I have a 19 LT (5.3) and I put a set of Trail Boss wheels/tires (275/65/18) on it. But, I noticed that no matter the size of a bump I went over the rear end swayed and the front bounced for what seemed like 20 minutes. Some bumps felt like my eyeballs were going to pop out of my head. Living in Los Angeles the freeways and streets are terrible, so I was in the market to get new shocks to help with the ride. I ended up getting the Bilstein 5100s. I got the adjustable height front strut and eliminated the ready lift under strut 2” spacer. I kept the truck level and set at the 2” lift position. I also installed Cognito tubular upper control arms. I was thinking about lifting in the future, so it made sense to install at the same time. I ditched the 275/65/18 DuraTrac tires and got 295/70/18 Atturo Trail Blade XT (I’d be happy to give initial thoughts on these tires, I have about 1,000 miles on them now). They are about a 34.5” tire but only about 11.5” wide. Separate topic of course. These shocks have GREATLY improved the ride quality of the truck on both street and highway. I would highly recommend these shocks if you are in the market. Best bang for the buck. I have driven about 1,000 miles of combined city/highway and they are worth every penny. Even my wife has noticed how much smoother it drives. If you have any questions about the shocks or tires I’m here to help!
  3. Currently have factory ranchos on my 2017 z71, have been thinking about upgrading to the fox 2.0 rear shocks. Has anyone had these shocks or have them? Are they worth the money over another set of ranchos or blistens?
  4. So, I am pulling the trigger on rear shocks first since that is where I need better ride quality. I don't know which set of shocks to go with, the 5100 or pro truck sport shocks. I have read about both and I am just torn. What sets one above the other? And where is the best place to buy from?
  5. Hey all..i have what is probably a dumb question. I have a 2020 trailboss..and im wondering if I can install the bilstein 5100 shocks to just level it out and if so what do I set them to before installing to get the desired leveled height ? 1" or 2" ? Any info will be appreciated..thanks in advance
  6. So I have a 05 Gmc and I want to upgrade the front suspension specifically the shocks it has a 6" lift on 35s any suggestions
  7. I have a 2014 Sierra 1500. I am due for new tires so I am going to go a size bigger and keep the stock rims (265/65r18 to 275/65/r18). Before I do this, I plan on changing out all of the shocks and installing the bilstein 5100's. I figured this was the best option for ride quality, while still being able to add a little extra height to the truck without putting too much stress on any other parts. My question is, has anyone set the front shocks to the height setting (is there any downside to this?) and then the rear to the highest setting (1"). If so, can does this still create enough rake to give the truck a leveled look when pulling a trailer? I dont like the nose high look. Looking for any recommendations on what i should set the shocks to in order to achieve more height on the truck, but be able to tow without the nose being higher than the back. Include pictures if you have them! I am also assuming i should get an alignment after installing the shocks and new tires right? Thanks, Ted
  8. I have a 2015 GMC Yukon Denali @ 36k miles. It was Magnetic Ride Control. About 6 months ago dealer indicated my right front strut was leaking and I found out quickly how much it is to replace one! Driving the truck now on highway it has felt like possibly the shocks are not working so I took a look at the rears and noticed some moisture around one and debris on another. Not sure if this is normal or indicative of a failure. Anyone had one fail and see what it looks like? https://imgur.com/a/SX5uu8f
  9. I have a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71 SLT, 39K miles; recently I have been hearing a clicking/popping noise coming from the front right wheel well. I took it to the dealership to get it looked at, and they come back to tell me my shocks are bad, which it not what I expected to hear. They quoted me $1.1K to install new shocks, does that sound right to y'all? It sounded a bit absurd to me. Of course now I am on youtube trying to figure out if I can do this myself. How hard would it be - for someone who hasn't done much other change the oil myself and maybe change a belt here and there - to change my front shocks by myself? Or should I just pay someone to do it?
  10. I have a 08 rwd sierra 1500. I am searching for all the parts needed to do a 2.5 level kit with the 3" spindle lift as well. I have all parts such as: 3" spindles Skyjacker shocks (have not bought yet in case I find better ones) Rear blocks with new U Bolts Rc 2.5" level kit ***what I am looking for now is the upper control arms. I have been looking everywhere for the "right" ones needed for awhile now and can't find them. The closest I have got were the Rough Country upper control arms for the 3" lift kit the sell. I talked to a representative on the phone and they weren't any help at all. Would those be the correct UCA's for the job? If anyone has done this lift or knows where I can buy them, please send me a link to the exact spot online where I can make the purchase. All help is greatly appreciated!
  11. I have 2016 LTZ Suburban with magride, I want to upgrade it because there are three things which I don't like: 1) It has air shocks suspension which is not good for long life. The balloons is starting to leak air on 40 K miles and then it break the compressor. 2) Other thing is that this shock has magfuel, but it is also not good for long life. It is starting to leak magfuel on 70-80k miles. 3) And the price is too high for this short service life. I want to upgrade them for a longer service life with the same or better ride characteristics. And my question is what do you recommend as a replacement OEM MRC?
  12. Hey guys I know there are threads out there for it but I have looked and can't seem to narrow it down. I currently have a 2016 GMC Sierra All Terrain leveled 2.5". I am looking at upgrading to a Zone 4.5" and running bigger tires on my stock 20" All Terrain wheels. The question I have though is about the shocks. I want to upgrade my shocks right now, looking at the bilsteins. But my question is if I bought the bilstein (5100's) would I be able to run those on the 2.5" level and the 4.5" lift? I appreciate any help and information! Pictures or experience with either setup or future setup is helpful as well!
  13. Is anyone running KYB Mono Max shocks on the rear of their 1/2 ton? I'm kinda set on KYB but between the Gas-A-Just and the Mono Max... I haul and tow probably once a week so I want something a little firmer but don't want to bounce around when unloaded. I have read some great reviews on the Mono Max but most of them were written by 3/4 ton owners. Thanks!
  14. Okay, i recently bought a 2in leveling kit for my 2017 silverado 1500 ltz and ive been doing some research before i get put on. i keep seeing people saying that you need to replace your shocks with larger one? and suspension system? Is this really true for just a 2in leveling kit? and if so how big of shocks do i need and what suspension parts need upgraded too..
  15. Information on Vibration Analysis and Diagnostic 2014/2015 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra This seems to be a vibration campaign that has been around since January 2015. I have seen many complaints on different forums about this issue. I also have a vibration/harmonics issue that is not there all of the time but most. My issue seems to be centered around the V4 decel, and body mount configuration. This link is filled with a ton of information about various causes and repairs many of the 2014/2015 GM truck owners are experiencing. Some may be experiencing a combination of more than one issue at a time. Many more may not be experiencing any vibration at all. I do believe for those folks with the "Cadillac ride" its only a matter of time before they start experiencing vibration/harmonics issues. Its kinda nice to get this information out so that GM can streamline the repair process even further. If enough of these trucks show up for repair request for vibration they may even send out letters to further enhance quality control. http://oemdtc.com/6392/information-on-vibration-analysis-and-diagnostic-2014-2015-chevrolet-silverado-gmc-sierra/3 If link does not work copy and past in your browser.
  16. I have a 2017 Four Wheel Drive Sierra with the Max Trailering Package and the 6.2L engine. I tow a 34' Airstream travel trailer (9,000 pounds loaded and about 1,000 pound tongue weight) and I get a good deal of porpoising on some washboard type roads. I have a Hensley Arrow Equalizer hitch with 1,000 pound spring bars. Also, I consider the truck under damped even when I'm not towing. I'm considering upgrading to the Bilstein 4600 series shocks F & R. Does anyone have a similar experience with this situation or the Bilstein 4600 shocks. I installed these shocks on my 1992 Suburban many years ago and I was very happy with the results.
  17. Hi everyone, So since my purchase of a 2016 Silverado 1500 in May the main problem I've had with the truck is its inconsistent ride quality. The truck is a WT with power windows and locks. Cloth seats. And vinyl floor. The truck only has 27000 miles, well kept and maintained. Used as a commuter truck to work, aswell as work on the side (Electrician). Truck was purchased with only 22000 miles on it. No issues other than leaking pinion seal which is in the process of being fixed. At first I thought it was the tires so I had them balanced, rotated, and had an alignment done. While that helped it didnt fix the issue at hand which is how hard this truck drives It's a very uncomfortable ride at all speeds. Even on freshly paved highways and roads it still drives rough. What defines "rough" is the hitting of minor bumps. It can be just an ever so slight crack in the road to minor pits. I've done some testing and drove another vehicle (An f-150) down those same roads and had no where near as much of a impact and hit as my own truck. Now it's not a major impact like hitting something that you really shouldnt. But it's very unsettling and jarring at times as you would be driving the same roads you have been for years in different vehicles, and when you least expect it feel a nice jolt in your back when you usually wouldnt. If you need more understanding, put a handful of change in the compartment under the AC controls and drive around. I was wondering if it has anything to do with the stock suspension that comes along with the truck. Should I try out new shocks? Is there anything else I should try? I have no clue what to do and where to start but driving 45 minutes to work with the truck makes my back hurt as much as after an 8 hour day of work. Thanks
  18. I know the 6112s are semi-new to the community. My question is what would be the lowest possible notch I can install these and still have enough clearance to fit 275X 65R 20 KO2s. I’d imagine the notch settings are similar to the 5100s accept there is 1 extra notch I believe. I have been searching online for the past week and cannot find anyone that confirms the lowest possible setting to fit these tires. I know I can install them at the highest setting and fit just fine, But I am trying to keep rake in the rear due to occasional towing and i do not want to add a leveling block to the rears. I was thinking the third notch (1.25” of lift) would work but I’m not sure if It will get rubbing. Does anyone have any idea on this? I currently have a 2.5 inch leveling spacer but do not want to install it when I switch to the Bilstein 6112s. Thanks!
  19. Rancho RS9000XL vs Bilstein 5100 I am at 72k and preparing/saving up for shock replacement on all four corners. I like the that the Rancho RS9000XL can be adjusted (claimed 400% difference between lowest and highest setting). I always hear good things about the Bilstein 5100s though. Any experience with the Rancho RS9000XL shocks? (Front): Ranch RS9000XL: http://www.gorancho.com/products/shock-absorbers/rs9000xl-performance-strut/rancho-rs9000xl-strut-rs999830.html (Rear) Rancho RS9000XL: http://www.gorancho.com/products/shock-absorbers/rs9000xl-shock-absorber/rancho-rs9000xl-shock-absorber-rs999198.html Total for four: ~$527 (Front) Bilstein 5100: https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/product-search-detail/?ItemId=6188925713238092455&YearId=4357058600109566749&MakeId=4463563413472551677&ModelId=1723229799825481433&SubModelId=5482975663341996073 (Rear) Bilstein 5100: https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/product-search-detail/?ItemId=7911004732752982112&YearId=4357058600109566749&MakeId=4463563413472551677&ModelId=1723229799825481433&SubModelId=5482975663341996073 Total for four: ~$345
  20. Please help. I am getting the 4.5 zone lift on my 2017 Silverado and am wanting to upgrade my rear and front shocks! I’ve heard a lot about Bilstein and Fox but wanna make sure I get the right fit and best bang for my buck. Any advice would be helpfull! Thank you!
  21. i have a 2014 silverado that when the rear of the truck hit bumps it always jumps the rear of the truck to the left. i have 87k miles on the truck so i figured the rear shocks were done. after reading many post i decided to put bilstein 5100's on the truck i had a lower spacer on the front to lift the truck 1.5 inches. so i set the fronts on the 3rd setting which is 1.26 inches and then installed the rears withe boot down. i drive a section of road that has had some pot holes filled in that make the truck jump to the left after installing the new shocks i drove this section of road again and the rear of the truck will still jump to the left. i checked the ubolts and they are tight. what else could be making the truck do this if i hit a series of bumps it get dangerous any help appreciated
  22. Hey all, new to the forum. I recently bought a new (to me) 2003 Silverado 1500HD. It rides very smooth for being a 3/4 ton chassis. I have noticed it likes to get a little bouncy when I go over a bump or hit a dip in the road. I do not want it to ride like a dump truck, but a little more stability would be nice. Leaning towards bilsteins. Thoughts and opinions?
  23. Stock aluminum upper control arms and rancho coil over shocks off of my 2015 z71 sierra. Make me an offer. Would like to sell together but will sell shocks and arms separately. They have 25,000 miles on them.
  24. Looking at buying a Silverado next week. Went to the dealership and test drive a Z71 crew cab. Compared to my current vehicle, it drove very smooth. Do the rancho shocks make much of a difference in ride quality? Thanks!
  25. I have read a couple of threads on here about a popping noise from the shocks, most are talking about the front shocks. So, my 2014 Silverado Crew cab 4x4 starting making what i can only describe as a "exhaust pipe bumping into the frame" noise, then it stopped. i was under the truck last night looking to see if i had the JL1 brake controller when i noticed the drivers side rear shock top mount bolt was gone and the shock was fully extended, laying on the spare, a quick jaunt to the parts store and 45 min later, no problem. now this morning i notice my noise is back, could this be a faulty shock? how could i "lose" a shock bolt?
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