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Found 9 results

  1. Hey all, I just purchased an Eibach Pro truck kit with springs for my 2017 . So I will be leveling out my truck to at least 2.5inches. I am wanting to get some UCAs to go with it and do it all in one go and have the angles in check. I am looking at: Freedom Offroad Kryptonite Cognito I really like the Kryptonite/Cognito since they use the bolt in balljoint. I want to stick with regular balljoints instead of the uniballs and something ~500 bucks or under. Any other brands I should look at? Currently Im not sure what type of gm UCAs I have. Is there anything else I should look out for? I will be running stock 17in rims for awhile before new wheels/tires are in the budget. Thanks in advance
  2. Finally got around to installing the Eibach 2.0 Pro Kit. Not a bad install but since I also installed the Trail Boss half shafts and Cognito UCA's it took me 5 hrs. So far I love it. The ride is so much better and the front end doesn't bottom out going over speed bumps like it did before. To me it was well worth it and since the shops around here wanted $1,200 to install it, I figured I could save some cash. I have new wheels for it and getting new Toyo Open Country ATIII's tomorrow. I got 47k out of the factory Bridgstones. I also installed a 2" block in the back.
  3. Recently got my truck finished with the setup I've been putting off since I got the truck a year ago. Hardest part of the whole ordeal was finding someone to disassemble the struts and reassemble them with the new strut and spring. Ended up using a Jack Tech SK-3000 Strut Spring Compressor my cousin had collecting dust because not a single shop around me would touch them, Don't blame them. To run this suspension I also installed the Dirt King Tubular Upper Control Arms which requires you to cut off the uca bump stop. No issues so far with over extending but I think I'm going to look into installing some limit straps. The tires are a 10 wide made by kenda and they rub a lot backing but do great everywhere else plus I have not done any trimming what so ever. I have a YouTube I'm using for this build as well. https://www.youtube.com/@dhobbsv8/videos Parts List - - SDHQ Skid Plate - Dirt King Tubular UCA - Eibach Pro-Truck Lift System Stage 1 - Baja Designs Fog light kit (NON DOT) - MST Time Attack (Truck) 18x7.5 -12 offset - Kenda Klever 35/10.50
  4. Long story short, I think I need to buy springs but don't know which ones to select. RockAuto has 27 different "GM Genuine" coil springs for a 2017 GMC Sierra with 6.2L engine. I am wanting to match the spring rate of a 2017 GMC Sierra SLT CrewCab 4x4 6.2L. If someone has this exact truck, maybe they could post their RPO codes please? Or maybe, hopefully, someone has a better idea to get this info? The long story (if you care to read on) is I have the 2017 GMC Sierra Denali CrewCab 4x4 6.2L with MagneRide shocks & struts. The truck has just under 60K miles and the ride quality has degraded over time. I know at least 1 shock is bad due to it leaking, no codes have been thrown on the dash. Due to the mileage and the expense of the MagneRide shocks, I am pursuing replacing them all with conventional shocks and at the same time, getting my truck level. Several options on the market claiming great ride quality but I'm leaning towards the Bilstein 5100's that I've had on past trucks or the Eibach ProTruck kit E80-23-006-02-22 for $704 that sound great too but I'll need to buy strut mounts and deal with compressing those beasts (others have had issues). Or possibly the RoughCountry E2 loaded struts #501029 - inexpensive but not sure on ride quality + reliability or maybe even Fox 2.0's if I can find them for a good price. I would even consider the Belltech coilovers #15102 for $650 /pair if I could find someone running them with a positive review. If/since my MagneRide coil springs aren't the same/compatible, with some kits including the Bilsteins, I'll need to buy new springs, which isn't a huge deal since they aren't too expensive - some as low as $34. I know Eibach's kit comes with springs included but it appears they have a higher spring rate for trucks with extra weight on the front of their trucks. Of course, I'll need to deal with the MRC electronics, cheapest I've found is https://www.magdelete.com/collections/sierra-1500 and I may end up just getting the entire kit from him but don't know which springs are used with his either... It does make some sense that there are so many different GM Genuine coil springs due to there being 3 different engines available, 3 different cab sizes and 4 different trims... I do zero off-roading or towing and am just looking for a nice street ride with a leveled look. I welcome input on anything I've said but I'm mainly looking for the proper conventional OEM spring that will match best with my truck.
  5. SCROLL TO BOTTOM FOR MY FEEDBACK ON THE KIT I purchased the Eibach Pro Truck lift kit the other day so below is a quick how to on the process and some initial feedback I have on the kit. My truck has 75k miles and I knew before purchasing anything I had a blown rear shock. I wanted to lift my truck higher so instead of purchasing OEM equipment and adding more rough country spacers (already had a 2" lower up front), I saw the Eibach kit. It included everything to complete a reasonable 2.5" lift AND included new springs for less than $600. From my tuner days, Eibach was the go-to for lowering springs, I assume they know what they are doing plus they are American made, can't go wrong. The struts are adjustable like Bilsteins so this was the best option for achieving the lift I wanted. With the Eibach springs and the struts at their lowest setting, my truck would be 2.5" higher according to the instructions. Also, the rear shocks in the kit, safely handle a +1" lift in the rear. This is what I wanted! Since I was already touching every other suspension component, I figured I might as well add the 2" rear blocks I've been eyeing so I bought those direct from RC. Truck set up before project: 20" wheels, Falken AT3W 33" tires, RC 2" lower spacer with stock struts and shocks one of which is completely blown. The ride was sloppy, pulling into driveways or other major bumps my truck was rocking and rolling, signs my stock set up was done. I would wince before hitting large bumps on Chicago expressways knowing my cage was about to get rattle. The 20" wheels and heavier tires aren't helping but the dampers needed to be retired. Purchased parts: Eibach Pro Truck Lift kit: E80-23-006-02-22 Includes new springs, new monotube struts, and new monotube rear shocks. Also includes new king nuts for struts and bump stop collars for reusing OEM bump stop. https://eibach.com/us/i-8809-pro-truck-lift-system-stage-1.html Rough Country: 6532 (2" rear blocks) Includes new u-bolts, washers, nuts, and 2" tapered rear blocks No link, this is the rear blocks from their leveling kit, you have to order over the phone. Side note, RC folks are REALLY nice on the phone. If your are uncomfortable working on compressed springs do not attempt the strut disassembly yourself. Take them to a shop. I've done several spring projects in my life and understand how dangerous they can be. Be safe and take the necessary precautions and where the right PPE. If the compressors fail, they should fail in an open area, not in front of you. Prepare for the worst, hope for the best. I am not responsible for misuse of the below info. Important tools: Eye protection and hand protection Pneumatic gun Spring compressors pry bar jack and jack stands Sockets 10 mm and 15 mm all the way up to a deep 22 mm Wrenches 15 mm all the way up to 22 mm A friend, loved one, kid, someone to help. I did this work by myself and it took me probably 6 hours in total, would've been half that with a second set of hands. Before you do any suspension work, always take measurement from fender to ground or from fender to top of wheel. This gives you baseline measurements to calculate your final lifts. Rears (blocks and shocks): 1. Jack your car up on both sides. Put on jack stands. You want the rear axle to drop straight down. Only doing one side at a time will be an issue, I learned the hard way. 2. Doing one side of the truck at a time, remove the upper shock bolt (the nut is welded, just remove bolt) and the bottom bolt/nut. Shock should pop right out with some love. 3. Place a car jack under the differential. Remove the (4) 21 MM bolts on the factory u-bolts. Again only on one side at a time. 3. SLOWLY lower the rear differential to allow enough room to remove the stock blocks. Watch your brake lines, you have some play but not too much. 4. Before installing the new block, clean the alignment pin and hole on your truck. Mine had a lot of dirt and salt. A wire brush cleaned it right up. I also sprayed it down with WD40 for good measure. 5. Once the block is installed and lined up, slowly raise your diff back up. If your blocks are tapered make sure the taller side of the block is closer to the rear of the truck. Install the new u-bolts and torque the new 22 mm nuts down in an alternating pattern. Old block next to new blocks below. 6. Install the new rear shocks, start at the top then do the bottom. I had to compress the shocks about 1/2" to get the bottom bolt in. 7. Repeat on other side then your done. I took the truck for a quick test drive to test out everything. No shutter, no issues. Picture below of my old shocks next tot he new, one looks blown... Time for the fun part, the fronts! Fronts (struts and springs): 1. Unbolt the 3 nuts on the top of the strut. Easy access through the engine bay. You can remove these before the car is lifted without issue. Leave the outside nut hand tight to prevent your strut from dropping out. 2. Jack up one side of car and remove wheel. 3. Unbolt the sway bar end link, tie rod end, two bolts on bottom strut mount, and the upper control arm ball joint. The UCA will need a BFH (code for hammer) to help it out. Leave the nut finger tight so the UCA doesn't shoot out of knuckle right away. Some people say you can do this without removing the UCA but I just couldn't see how that could be done in my application. 4. If you're by yourself place a car jack under the knuckle, remove UCA ball joint nut and slowly lower front hub assembly, there should be plenty of room to remove the strut now. I used a jack stand to hold the hub assembly while I unscrewed the top nut on the strut and carefully remove it. Once the strut is out, loosely reattach the UCA to the hub so you can leave it for a while. 5. With a permanent marker, draw a line down the strut assembling marking everything. The line should be on the outside face of the strut assembly. This is your index line, when you transplant these pieces to your new strut they should all line up. If they don't you messed something up. 6. Now the dangerous stuff, install your McPherson spring compressors on the stock spring, try to grab coils that are far from each other as the spring will be easier to compress. Compressors should be 180 degrees from each other to ensure even loading. 7. Put on all your PPE, say a pray, and start tightening the spring compressors until you see a gap between spring and strut per mounts. Treat loaded springs like a gun, never point it at anyone and try not to drop it, jostle it, anything that could affect the compressors grip. Personal note, when I am doing dangerous stuff in my garage I either text someone letting them know what I am doing and text them after I am done or tell my wife if shes inside to check on me occasionally. 8. After you remove the king nut, open up the compressors, you can toss the springs. You will need to remove the upper assembly of the strut (top mount, bracket, spring boot, and bump stop). You will also need to remove the lower spring perch. Do this by gently tapping the perch towards the top of the strut to release it. PB blaster helps speed this up. 9. Prepare the Eibach struts. These are adjustable to dial in your final ride hide. In my application, when used with Eibach springs, the bottom level (lowest setting) will achieve a 2.5" lift up front. Snap ring was moved into the bottom grove and collar installed. The lower perch from OEM strut was installed. 10. There is a metal collar inside the yellow bump stop, pull this metal piece out and replace with the one supplied by Eibach. The shaft is bigger on Eibach struts so the collar needs to be upsized. 11. Dangerous part 2, install the compressors on your Eibach spring. Again try to grab coils that are far apart to ease the compression process. I believe the springs needed to be compressed 1/2" to fit on the strut. This was the most nerve wrecking part of this project. The compressors have seen better days. Those bends are pretty ugly. 12. Once compressed start lining up the strut, inside rubber boot, bracket, and top mount. Your line you drew earlier should all line up with the outside face of the strut. Make sure the bottom of the spring is fully seated on the perch plate. 13. Install top metal spacer/washer from OEM strut and new king nut provided by Eibach. Tighten down nut then your good to unload the springs. Once the springs compressors are removed the scary part for that strut is over. 14. Remove the nut on the UCA and reinstall your strut. Have at least one bottom strut mount bolt available so once you get the strut lined up, you can throw a bolt on the hole to keep things in place. 15. Reverse the beginning steps with the reassembly of the hub parts. You'll will need a pry bar braced on the spring to hold the UCA down firmly into the top of the hub so you can tighten the nut without the ball joint spinning. 16. Repeat on other side. 17. Take your truck for a quick test drive, if no noises or issues, take in for an alignment. 18. Take final measurements to confirm relatively even lift. Drivers side may be lower due to gas tank. Final thoughts on the upgrade: I am absolutely in love with the kit. I've been putting off replacing shocks for a while, so glad I finally did this project. Dare I say, Eibach MDFA? (Made Driving Fun Again...) Like I mentioned above, I was beginning to notice I was wincing before hitting big bumps because of how loosey-goosey my suspension had become since I bought it. The Eibach kit firmed up the ride noticeably. At slow speeds I do feel small bumps which is a given with monotubes, 20" wheels, and aggressive tires. At speed, the dampers turned those crazy earth shattering/dash destroying bumps on Chicago expressways into muffled bumps on the road. Also the dampers recover quickly. Driving into parking lots or steep driveways, my truck you to rock back and forth, now the truck rocks and correct quickly. No over correction. I would highly recommended this kit as an alternative to the Bilstein kit. If your looking to lift your truck, its hard to beat this package. Overall very happy with the kit and how it turned out. Excited to get some off road time this hunting season! I filmed the install and will be posting the video when its edited. Thanks! WF41
  6. So, I am pulling the trigger on rear shocks first since that is where I need better ride quality. I don't know which set of shocks to go with, the 5100 or pro truck sport shocks. I have read about both and I am just torn. What sets one above the other? And where is the best place to buy from?
  7. Selling my Eibach Pro Truck Lift Kit with coils, struts and shocks. Unopened direct from manufacturer with warranty. I am hoping for $400 but I am willing to negotiate a little. Located in Houston TX. PM for more info and Ebay listing.
  8. Hey everyone, I have been reading through the forum and was going to post this in the “leveling kit” thread but like a lot of questions that have been asked I didn’t want it to get lost in the 475+ pages. I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 LT. I have been putting off installing a leveling kit till I needed tires and the time has come. I’m looking at the Eibach Pro Truck Kit with Rough Country 2” rear blocks. After reading the leveling kit kit tread I’m a little confused. I have the stock 20” High Country wheels on my truck and really like them. Can I go to a 275/60/20 or larger tire? I don’t want to do a leveling kit if I can’t get a larger tire ti fit and the rim rubs the upper control arm. Thanks for for all your help in advance.
  9. Arnott Air Suspension Products is pleased to announce the company is offering a premium Eibach Front Shock (SK-3062) for 2000-2006 GM SUVs (GMT800 Chassis) equipped with Autoride (Z55 RPO). Eibach Pro-Truck shocks use a high pressure 46mm monotube design that resists fade through even the toughest terrain. The Eibach replacement shock fits the front left or right side and delivers enhanced stability, tight damping response, plus excellent vehicle control and comfort. Driving a vehicle equipped with Eibach shock absorbers is an exhilarating experience. Arnott includes a sensor designed to plug into the auto-damping system and eliminate dash panel error messages. NOTE: THIS PART SHOULD BE REPLACED IN PAIRS. Features: • Eibach Nitrogen Gas-Charged Monotube Shock • Protective Dust Boot for Longer Life • New Upper Bushings & Mounting Hardware • Installation Manual & Video Available • Made in the USA Additional Aftermarket Innovations for GM Vehicles The featured new aftermarket Shocks for GMC and GM SUVs are high-quality, cost-effective solutions for GM SUV owners concerned about failing OE air suspension parts leaving them with expensive and recurring maintenance problems. 'The Arnott Advantage' adds exceptional value to some of the most sophisticated air suspension components available. In keeping with the GM tradition of quality and performance, Arnott continues to introduce its own products and designs to replace failing original equipment. See Arnott's impressive array of additional, innovative new and remanufactured aftermarket replacement parts for GMC vehicles Here. See Arnott offerings for Cadillac Here. See Arnott offerings for Chevrolet Here.
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