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2003 GMC Yukon Denali 6.0 new part installed , no start issue
Cway 843 posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
Ive slowly been bringing 2003 Denali 6.0 back into maintenance... replaced a few parts without issues but after a water pump install the truck will now turn over but not crank. Had mech with scanner come out no codes shown to prevent start or run. Was running before the water pump install without issue other than small leak from water pump. Fuel system test fine, timing is true, spark is present, battery is brand new (figure might as well get one to be on safe side) , has almost full tank of gas, MAF has been cleaned. A new throttle body sensor, thermostat, radiator installed two weeks before water pump install..no issues at that time or after till the water pump started a leak from pressure change after new radiator. As of right now its sitting in the garage with the battery out to kill the entire system to see if a reset will do anything...while I sit here baffled as to what the issue may be. -
So my 2004 gmc Yukon Denali cluster doesn’t work. I checked all the fuses, check relays speedometer is stuck at 32 mph with vehicle on or off. When I try to switch over to my dims, my light shut off completely, and the cluster doesn’t show that my brights are ever on only when the actual light switch is off. None of the gauges work by the way I should include.
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Thought I'd post a review of the newly installed suspension and wheel set up on my 2016 GMC Sierra Denali 1500. Previous set up was stock MagneRide suspension with ride height sensors and 22" stock wheels with Nitto Terra Grappler G2's size 285/45r22. I'm at 70k miles and the ride was steadily getting worse (too stiff), so I researched for a while and ended up installing the following: HaloLifts Boss Ultimate Kit (adjustable coilovers for 1" to 3" of lift in front, and 1" of lift in the rear) - http://www.halolifts.com/HaloLifts-Boss-Ultimate-Kit-fits-your-2007-UP-GM-SilveradoSierra-1500_p_220.html Stock GMC Sierra 18" rims (powder coated black) with Falken Wildpeak AT3W's size 275/70r18 Bypass sensor kit for all 4 MagneRide shock sensors and all 4 ride height sensors (I removed all ride height sensors that are mounted to the frame) - http://www.xineering.com/shocksims.html Up first, the HaloLifts Boss Ultimate Kit At $1299, this is a more expensive kit vs the Fox, Bilstein, or Rancho equivalant. What swayed me to this kit was that I was not looking for a crazy lift and I wanted something that was plug and play should I go a different route once these start to fail (like all shocks eventually do). Additionally, I found multiple reviews on this forum and other brand forums where people said they had installed Fox, Bilstein, and/or other brands and this was the best riding kit and worth the extra cash. You'll find a rep from the company, Alex, who's posted in this forum, as well as others, and he says call him with any questions. I did, and he answered every time and would not let me go until I had EVERY question answered. The customer service is outstanding with this place. I ended up going with the coilovers set at 1.5" of lift and I put .5" spacers beneath it to get 2" of total lift and the softest ride possible. Each kit is made custom to what you want, so that's how it arrived for me. You can have the coilovers set at 2" if you want, then add 1" of spacers underneath. Since I am only doing 2" of lift, I did not purchase new UCA's. Below are pics of me opening the packages. Again, thoroughly impressed with how sealed everything was with plenty of foam and cardboard to protect everything. Install was a breeze, thanks to instructions that were included and my convo with him over the phone. One last thing, the "do the rear shock boots go down or up?" debate has been settled. According to HaloLifts they go down :-) Next, the new wheel/tire set up I downsized from a 22" set up to an 18" set up so I could get more sidewall and a softer ride. While I like the look of a larger rim, it was so easy to get scratches on the 22" rims since they are so close to the ground and there's not enough sidewall on the tire to bulge out a little bit to help protect the rims. So, new set up gets me a softer ride and better rim protection. I went with a stock rim and had it powder coated black because I've had mixed experience with aftermarket rims (good and bad). As far as the tire choice, Falken Wildpeaks kept coming up as best all around value for it's performance. I've had KO2's in the past, as well as other AT tires but I wasn't blown away by their performance for how much you spend on them. Falken's were cheaper, but hold up well in rain, snow, and mud. Plus they have an aggressive look, that's a nice bonus. Below are pics of the truck with the new wheel and suspension set up. I'll follow that up with the obligatory, "pardon the dirty truck, haven't had time to wash it". Last, the MagneRide bypass kit This only applies to those who have the MagneRide suspension and ride height sensors (certain trims like Denali). If you do have it, you'll need to bypass the sensors or you'll forever be dismissing a message that says "service suspension system". If you can live with that, then ignore all of this. If it'll drive you nuts, you have 2 options - one cheap, but could lead to other issues and the other is not so cheap, but will not have issues. There are 8 sensors total, 4 shock sensors and 4 ride height sensors. The first option is to go cheap and buy 8 resistors (3 ohm, 25 watts). You then splice them in at every sensor. The risk here is corrosion, if you don't seal the splices properly this leads to the wire harnesses going bad and having to purchase all new harnesses and resistors to do all of the work again (and now you've spent more money on the harnesses). In all, this could run you about $50 for resistors, heat shrink, and a heat gun. The second option is to do what I did and buy the professional bypass kit from x-ineering. It's $425, but they'll give you a $75 discount if you post about your install on social media. I went this route because they clip in and seal the wiring, just like the stock sensors. No risk of corrosion and everything they make is backed by warranty. Overall, I'm super happy and love the ride. Only a couple hundred miles on it so far, I'll report back after all my Thanksgiving travel coming up (1500+ miles). Let me know if there are any questions!
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Hello! 21 RST, just bought a seat set from a 21 LTZ. I read on here about the WAMS programming and was able to get my hands on a cheap set! Well, now they are en route to me and WAMS is unable to do them now. Has anyone else been able to get the programming done? Thanks!! -
The center dash screen on my wife's 2023 Acadia Denali has just started going black every time a mobile csll comes in. Once the call is over, screen comes back to life. Anyone else experiencing that issue? -
IMG_2627.MOV I have a Sierra 1500 with the 6.2L (107k miles) and 10-speed transmission. When I was driving the motor shut off and when I tried to restart the engine the starter would just crank but no fire. I towed it to a mechanic I’ve been seeing for a while. He hasn’t been able to get around to diagnosing the truck but he sent me a video of him trying to start it. The noises are very concerning; I first thought it was due to a failed fuel pump module but now I’m thinking it’s something a lot more expensive anybody have any ideas as to what this problem could be? -
Have a 2020 gmc denali 1500 with a 2” leveling kit. Looking to see what tire size I can run without rubbing. Or very minor trimming. Have a 20” rim
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Has anyone had a rear compressor issue with a new Yukon XL Denali? My wife and I bought the vehicle at the beginning of October 2018 and within a month the rear compressor began running excessively. We took it into the dealership with bought it from and the service rep heard the noise but was unable to reproduce it later in the day with the technician so they sent us away with the vehicle. The noise became more and more regular so we took it to a dealership near our house and they heard it and acknowledged the problem, this lead them to replacing the rear compressor. The change of the rear compressor didn't do the trick and the excessive running persisted, this is where the frustration really set in. The service technicians were going to run diagnostics and service the vehicle after we brought it in MLK Day. The service department manager interrupted the process and essentially tried to bully my wife into accepting the fact that this is normal behavior for a GMC Denali line vehicle. She left the dealership in tears. I called the service manager in disagreement with 1) his treatment of my wife and 2) disputing the fact this is normal. His response was the discharge the video with a bogus report emphasize the vehicle was in intended working condition. Now the Denali is sitting at another dealership while they try to replicate the issue. It occurs 30-40% of the trips we take in the vehicle and the rear compressor will run anywhere from a few seconds to 20 minutes. Has anyone else had this issue and found a resolution? I'm to the point I'm almost willing to just sell the vehicle back for a loss to be rid of it. -
Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time. -
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For sale are my set of custom painted, OEM Sierra Denali LED Tail Lights. I had these painted to go on my truck and unfortunately they took so long I had to go a different direction before I got them back.. I have since moved up to a 3/4 diesel and am hoping these can find an owner who will appreciate the time, effort, and $$$ that went into creating them! These OEM LED Tail Lights are selling for $300 - $500 a piece online, and the cost to have these custom painted Mineral Metallic to match the Denali paint + the lens smoked (lightly, not enough to dim them when lit!) was $700 - looking to get $1,000 including shipping. Can cut a better deal if wanting to pick up in person in the Houston, TX area. Please reach out for additional pictures, questions, etc. I respond much quicker via text (405) 642-9097 Thanks!
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or sale are my set of custom painted, OEM Sierra Denali LED Tail Lights. I had these painted to go on my truck and unfortunately they took so long I had to go a different direction before I got them back.. I have since moved up to a 3/4 diesel and am hoping these can find an owner who will appreciate the time, effort, and $$$ that went into creating them! These OEM LED Tail Lights are selling for $300 - $500 a piece online, and the cost to have these custom painted Mineral Metallic to match the Denali paint + the lens smoked (lightly, not enough to dim them when lit!) was $700 - looking to get $1,000 including shipping. Can cut a better deal if wanting to pick up in person in the Houston, TX area. Please reach out for additional pictures, questions, etc. I respond much quicker via text (405) 642-9097 Thanks!
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I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this? -
I am a proud owner of a GMC Yukon 2016 Denali. Since these cars are not officially available in Europe, I imported a Yukon. Basically, I am very satisfied with the vehicle. But unfortunately, I have a problem with the vehicle, and nobody could help me so far: The car vibrates quite heavily and uncomfortably. The vibrations started when I stopped at the side of the road to let my wife get out. The engine lamp flashed, and the vehicle had hardly any power left. I drove about 1/4 mile, stopped again, and switched off the car. Afterward, I waited for over one minute and then restarted the car. The engine light stayed off, and so I was able to drive on. Also, the power was as usual again. But from there on I had vibrations which I didn't have before. So I went to a service station to read out any errors and get some help. But there were no errors detected. Since the vibrations did not disappear on the next miles, I went to the dealer again. They reprogrammed the ECU unit with the latest software and balanced the tires. Nothing has changed. So I went to another dealer, hoping that it could help me in a better way. They told me that my tires were worn out and that they could cause the vibrations. We changed all four tires. The handling was a bit better afterward, but the vibrations remained. Because in my country there are just about 10 GMC Yukon and a few Escalades driving around, no dealer has a clue and can solve my problem. Therefore I did a lot of research on the internet and on the paid platform of GM (ACDelco TDS) - unfortunately without success so far. I am also familiar with the service bulletins for the 8-speed automatic transmission. But I can exclude these vibrations so far. I have some of these vibrations in my car. However, I have now imported the right oil from Texas by ship, and I will do the oil change within the next days. But the other vibrations are noticeable at any speed, even at only 1 or 2 mph or over 100 mph. Especially when I ride uphill or downhill, it vibrates a lot. As if I had no suspension in the back and the vehicle would bounce around. The vibrations are mainly felt in the seat. Very slightly also in the steering wheel. From the beginning, my car tends to steer slightly to the left. But I never paid much attention to this, because measuring the track showed that everything is ok. I am aware that a remote diagnosis is challenging. But perhaps you have any ideas where I should proceed with my further diagnosis? Is the suspension the right start, the drive shaft, or the wheel mounting? Or could it be the engine mounting? Or something completely different? What is the best way to proceed? -
I recently bought a Sierra 1500 Denali because I love this truck but I am now noticing parts are really hard to find, I want to replace or delete my quad steer but have no idea where to start or look. I haven't been able to find anything in hours. Any help?
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Hey everybody, Just wanted to check in again and let you all know about another exciting service we're happy to be offering... The Denali Cluster Upgrade! Many of you have requested this upgrade and I'm happy to report we have successfully completed the mod. If you're interested in this, you'll need to know a few things. Acquire a new or used GMC Denali cluster. This can be a Sierra or a Yukon cluster. (Please note: If you buy your cluster 2nd hand, DO NOT plug it into your vehicle.) Diesel/Gas: The cluster will need to match some aspects of your current vehicle. For example, if you have a gas spec vehicle you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 6000rpm. If you have a diesel spec vehicle (2500, 3500) you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 5000rpm. Both shown below. MPH/KPH: We can do BOTH USA and Metric market clusters. If you live in the USA, you'll want to get a cluster that has a speedometer that goes up to 140. If you live in a metric country, you'll want a cluster that goes to 200. Both options shown below. COLOR: If you have a GMC and you want to keep your RED color theme, you'll want to find a 2016 GMC Denali cluster. If you have a Silverado, have done a blue conversion, or have upgraded your HMI to the newer blue theme and you're looking for a BLUE gauge theme, you'll want a 2017-2018 Denali cluster. Android Auto/Carplay: For all of you Android Auto users wanting the use of your volume and track selection flippers back, this fixes it!!! once installed you'll once again have access to your flippers. This also allows for the long press of the voice button on the steering wheel to activate Google Assistant as well as Siri for Apple Carplay. Year Matching: There has been a lot of talk that all modules that are installed into the vehicle need to be of the same year. After extensive testing we have found this to be mainly false. As long as the modules are of the same generation you should be A-OK for the install. That means if you have a 2.0 HMI vehicle (2014-2015) you can use a 2014-2015 Denali cluster. If you have a vehicle with a 2.5 HMI (Carplay Enabled, 2016-2018) you can use any 2016-2018 cluster so long as it matches your vehicle specs as mentioned above. And if you have a 2014-2015 and would like to upgrade to a blue themed cluster while adding Android Auto / Carplay, we are more than happy to facilitate the upgrade all at once. Please reach out to me if you have any questions or are interested in getting this mod done to your own vehicle. Thanks for watching and enjoy the demo.
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We have a 2016 Yukon 6.2L which developed a rattle at approximately 60k miles. Initially I believed the source of the rattle was a heat shield, but everything seems to be tight. It has been to the dealer twice and no progress has been made to resolve the issue. The first time they dismissed the problem and called it "normal" and the second time they believe it's a broken baffle weld in the muffler. What do you think? Thanks in advance Video with several angles from under the vehicle demonstrating the issue. The problem only surfaces when the vehicle inters v4 mode. Also, the rattle is so loud it is picked up by the Knock Sensors and it pulling timing. Scan performed with HP Tuners VCM Scanner. -
Long story short, I think I need to buy springs but don't know which ones to select. RockAuto has 27 different "GM Genuine" coil springs for a 2017 GMC Sierra with 6.2L engine. I am wanting to match the spring rate of a 2017 GMC Sierra SLT CrewCab 4x4 6.2L. If someone has this exact truck, maybe they could post their RPO codes please? Or maybe, hopefully, someone has a better idea to get this info? The long story (if you care to read on) is I have the 2017 GMC Sierra Denali CrewCab 4x4 6.2L with MagneRide shocks & struts. The truck has just under 60K miles and the ride quality has degraded over time. I know at least 1 shock is bad due to it leaking, no codes have been thrown on the dash. Due to the mileage and the expense of the MagneRide shocks, I am pursuing replacing them all with conventional shocks and at the same time, getting my truck level. Several options on the market claiming great ride quality but I'm leaning towards the Bilstein 5100's that I've had on past trucks or the Eibach ProTruck kit E80-23-006-02-22 for $704 that sound great too but I'll need to buy strut mounts and deal with compressing those beasts (others have had issues). Or possibly the RoughCountry E2 loaded struts #501029 - inexpensive but not sure on ride quality + reliability or maybe even Fox 2.0's if I can find them for a good price. I would even consider the Belltech coilovers #15102 for $650 /pair if I could find someone running them with a positive review. If/since my MagneRide coil springs aren't the same/compatible, with some kits including the Bilsteins, I'll need to buy new springs, which isn't a huge deal since they aren't too expensive - some as low as $34. I know Eibach's kit comes with springs included but it appears they have a higher spring rate for trucks with extra weight on the front of their trucks. Of course, I'll need to deal with the MRC electronics, cheapest I've found is https://www.magdelete.com/collections/sierra-1500 and I may end up just getting the entire kit from him but don't know which springs are used with his either... It does make some sense that there are so many different GM Genuine coil springs due to there being 3 different engines available, 3 different cab sizes and 4 different trims... I do zero off-roading or towing and am just looking for a nice street ride with a leveled look. I welcome input on anything I've said but I'm mainly looking for the proper conventional OEM spring that will match best with my truck.
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Hey everyone. I have a 2016 Sierra Denali. A while back I opted to do away with the magnaride struts and installed BIlstein 6112s in the front with Cognito UCAs and BIlstein 5100s in the rear, also added Xineering bypass kit to clear the Magnaride errors. I had an issue recently with the stop mount on the drivers side strut blowing out. I contacted BIlstein about it and the rep told me he thought he had been told that the distance between the LCA and where the strut mounts into the truck frame at the top on a magnaride equipped Denali is shorter than a normal Sierra and that it was possible that the strut was too compressed, causing it to push through the top mount. Has anyone ever heard this or experienced this issue? I can’t find anything mentioned about it anywhere. I’m taking the truck in next week to get it fixed but if it’s going to just happen again I am wondering if I need to get different struts all together.
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Hi All, Hopefully I placed this in the correct sub-forum... I am due to replace my tires on my 2019 Sierra 1500 Denali with the stock 22" wheels. This means the tire size is 275/50/R22 which really limits tire availability. I have considered goin with a 285/45/R22 as that opens up more options. It is 2.1% shorter so hoping it's not going to be an issue with the speedo and mileage staying pretty close to accurate? Thoughts on that tire size? Thoughts? Concerns? How much is this really affecting my annual mileage if we say 10k miles per year? I suspect warranty company is fine with it as my mileage will add up a little faster... Any other tire sizes you guys recommend that open up options that wont require any recalibration to speedo? In any case, I live in MN and we have a lot of snowy road days and we ice fish, etc. Using the stock tires on the lake this year was.... well... not good. I got stuck. I would like something that will perform better on snow but also not be real noisy. I have a Denali truck with no real mods because I have finally reached an age where all I want to hear in my truck is my music and nothing else lol. So road noise is a huge factor. I had a Trail Boss as a loaner for the weekend and the aggressive tire profile on those were AWFUL. But the standard all-season tire on a truck that is the same for a car just isn't it. Is there a good all-terrain tire than is quite? Does that even exist? Looking for any input and experience any of you have on the matter. Also considering the Continental Terrain Contact A/T as well. Reviews seem to indicate they are very quiet on road as well. These are also a 285/45/R22 (smaller diamter/circumfrence). can changing from a 50 to a 45 series tire affect road noise and comfort a lot? I had 24s on an Escalade running 30 or 35 series tires and they didn't seem to sacrifice comfort, but its been a while. -
Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is. -
Hello everyone, On my 2020 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali I did a hood air induction vent swap for a chrome vent cover and while I was at it I added Led RGB lights inside the vent taking care not to restrict the air flow. Has anyone else done any chrome or Led RGB mods? If so lets see them please.
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2004 Yukon Denali XL 1500 AWD Ok, so I have done many brakes in the past but this has me stumped. I put new calipers rotors and pads all the way around on the truck and have bled the brakes like 6 times. twice with a helper and 4 times with a bottle. All times the fluid comes out with no air but it still goes to the floor when its turned on. A small amount of push back is noticed after pumping a few times while the truck is off. But as soon as I turn it on and push its nothing. I have read about there possibly being air in the ABS module and am looking for how to bleed that with just one person and have it actually work. The master cylinder is and has been filled throughout and never dropper too low. I placed all the new parts and puller the hose off the old calipers and attached it to the new ones quickly replacing the copper washers. I just cant figure out what could be happening, any help would be appreciated.
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I normally get vehicles without sunroofs, because the headliner height is lower on vehicles with sunroofs and the headliner presses the left side of my head to the right in the driver seat (confirmed this in a 2019 3500HD on the dealers lot last month). I'm 6'3" and it's mostly in my torso. Does anyone know if the height of the headliner in the front cabin becomes equal with the rear headliner height if the sunroof is not optioned in (in other words without the sunroof is the headliner is closer to the actual roof panel since it's not hiding the sunroof mechanical under it)? I'm hoping to order my 2020 GMC 3500HD Denali SRW soon and this is the one option I'm not sure about yet. I don't care about resell or trade in values because I'm keeping this truck for at least the next 20 years, but if there is no height difference I might as well get the sunroof and pre-pay for my chiropractor.
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Just a heads up the 2021 map update is missing important changes massachusetts has made to their highway exit numbers. Mass decided to change them, that's why I updated at the cost of $99. Just to find out GMC did not include them. When I contacted them I was told the changes will be in next years update.
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Hello, i need some help with my 2016 Yukon Denali... so here is what’s going on and what I know... I took it in to the dealer 2 weeks ago to have the Magna Ride shocks replaced in the front.. I asked them if the rear air rides were fine and they told me they were just fine, I Imediately noticed a better ride when the front shocks replaced but started noticing a very loud sound every time I would go over any type of bump. So I called them back and ask them if they were sure that the rears were fine and they assured me they were. After some personal investigating I noticed that the driver side rear is very soft and bouncy and and the passenger side rear is extremely stiff. I did test the air compressor and seemingly working OK. Does anybody know why one shock would be very stiff and the other shock would be soft? Additionally I took it to a local suspension shop and they also told me that they were fine. I find it very hard to believe that one shock is stiff and one shock is soft. I noticed on the stiff shock that it looks like there is a little bit of dust buildup on it indicating a possible leak of fluid. So I did another little test on my own and I took the truck over some speed bumps and the driver side rear when I went over the speedbump glided right over it and made no road noise I can’t say the same for the passenger side rear when I went over the speedbump it made very loud noise and it was extremely stiff .
