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Found 326 results

  1. I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this?
  2. For sale is a set of tri-fold running boards in great shape, includes required module. These can be retrofitted to 14-18 trucks using a harness, there is a topic on how to install these. Retrofit harness can be purchased from @pgamboa https://harnessdr.com/ $500 local pickup, will drive to meet for the right deal Washington, Michigan
  3. I have a 2011 GMC Sierra Denali with a park assist problem I’m hoping someone can help me solve. A couple months ago, I started getting a sporadic “park assist blocked” error. This is pretty common as the sensors are covered in snow in the winter. However, I then noticed the sensors began to work sporadically even if they were clear. A month or so after that, the message changed to “service park assist” and the system automatically disables itself. The button on the dash shows the system is off all the time and when I try to turn it back on, the orange light flashes for two seconds but then disables itself again. I’ve checked the fuse and unplugged the battery but have not been able to get it to reset. Does this seem like a sensor issue or a control module? Any ideas for next steps? Unfortunately since the system is disabled all the time I can’t check to see if one sensor is malfunctioning as I’ve read about on other forums. Update: when I started my truck once this week it randomly worked for 10 seconds then disabled itself again and hasn’t worked since.
  4. We have a 2016 Yukon 6.2L which developed a rattle at approximately 60k miles. Initially I believed the source of the rattle was a heat shield, but everything seems to be tight. It has been to the dealer twice and no progress has been made to resolve the issue. The first time they dismissed the problem and called it "normal" and the second time they believe it's a broken baffle weld in the muffler. What do you think? Thanks in advance Video with several angles from under the vehicle demonstrating the issue. The problem only surfaces when the vehicle inters v4 mode. Also, the rattle is so loud it is picked up by the Knock Sensors and it pulling timing. Scan performed with HP Tuners VCM Scanner.
  5. Okay, after 11 months of agonizing mishaps, set backs and over all triumph, I figured it was time to immortalize my truck in a new post. Please welcome my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 7.0 (427) Turbo Build! Block: Texas Speed and Performance Darton sleeved boost ready block; 7.0L (427). TSP Forged wet sump crankshaft 4.0" stroke 6.125 Boost specific billet I-Beam Rods CP 4.125 -12cc Dish Pistons w/upgraded wrist pins. Clevite main bearings Clevite rod bearings ARP Main stud kit Cylinder Heads/ Intake Precision Race Components ported Cylinder Heads w/ valve job PAC spring/ Valve Kit. Comp Cams rocker arms/trunion Texas Speed & Performance SV Camshaft +30% fuel lobe TSP AFM delete kit Lingenfelter ported 95mm throttle body Ported L86 intake manifold. All ARP bolts or studs. Fuel: GM ZR1 high volume fuel injectors GM ZR1 fuel pump (high side) Armageddon 465 LPH in tank fuel pump (low side) Snow Performance Stage 3 Meth Kit with controller and braided lines. Turbo: Borg Warner S480 T6 Turbo 1.32 AR billet 110/96mm. Turbo smart 50mm BOV Turbo Smart 60mm waste gate Pro Boost controller fully titanium wrapped exhaust Cooling/Oil separators Mishimoto fully aluminum Radiator Mishimoto R-Line Intercooler 31x 12x 4” Mishimoto HD Trans Cooler 2X Mishimoto Black Aluminum catch cans. Mishimoto 180 degree thermostat. Transmission/driveline: Circle D pro 3 torque converter 2700 stall. Custom 5" 6061 aluminum driveshaft rated for 1,200hp 7,300trq MORE to come. I need to get the final tune with the new block. Still runs very well on the old 6.2 tune however, going up to 7.0 adds a layer of goofy on vacuum or under boost.. Next steps Get the PATC Stage 4 transmission kit stuffed into my 6L80E and retune to 900+ whp! Hoping to have that underway around March! Let me know what you all think. Ask any question. I'm open to where I purchased parts, cost of build etc. especially my opinion getting into a build like this.
  6. Hey everybody, Just wanted to check in again and let you all know about another exciting service we're happy to be offering... The Denali Cluster Upgrade! Many of you have requested this upgrade and I'm happy to report we have successfully completed the mod. If you're interested in this, you'll need to know a few things. Acquire a new or used GMC Denali cluster. This can be a Sierra or a Yukon cluster. (Please note: If you buy your cluster 2nd hand, DO NOT plug it into your vehicle.) Diesel/Gas: The cluster will need to match some aspects of your current vehicle. For example, if you have a gas spec vehicle you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 6000rpm. If you have a diesel spec vehicle (2500, 3500) you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 5000rpm. Both shown below. MPH/KPH: We can do BOTH USA and Metric market clusters. If you live in the USA, you'll want to get a cluster that has a speedometer that goes up to 140. If you live in a metric country, you'll want a cluster that goes to 200. Both options shown below. COLOR: If you have a GMC and you want to keep your RED color theme, you'll want to find a 2016 GMC Denali cluster. If you have a Silverado, have done a blue conversion, or have upgraded your HMI to the newer blue theme and you're looking for a BLUE gauge theme, you'll want a 2017-2018 Denali cluster. Android Auto/Carplay: For all of you Android Auto users wanting the use of your volume and track selection flippers back, this fixes it!!! once installed you'll once again have access to your flippers. This also allows for the long press of the voice button on the steering wheel to activate Google Assistant as well as Siri for Apple Carplay. Year Matching: There has been a lot of talk that all modules that are installed into the vehicle need to be of the same year. After extensive testing we have found this to be mainly false. As long as the modules are of the same generation you should be A-OK for the install. That means if you have a 2.0 HMI vehicle (2014-2015) you can use a 2014-2015 Denali cluster. If you have a vehicle with a 2.5 HMI (Carplay Enabled, 2016-2018) you can use any 2016-2018 cluster so long as it matches your vehicle specs as mentioned above. And if you have a 2014-2015 and would like to upgrade to a blue themed cluster while adding Android Auto / Carplay, we are more than happy to facilitate the upgrade all at once. Please reach out to me if you have any questions or are interested in getting this mod done to your own vehicle. Thanks for watching and enjoy the demo.
  7. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  8. Just picked up a Denali Grille w/ camera and am wondering if anyone has done the install themselves and ran into any issues hooking up the camera? I’ve only seen a few videos online of the new body style sierra grille replacement but am unsure if the camera addition will give me any issues. All help appreciated! Will be posting before and after photos as well??
  9. Hello everyone, On my 2020 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali I did a hood air induction vent swap for a chrome vent cover and while I was at it I added Led RGB lights inside the vent taking care not to restrict the air flow. Has anyone else done any chrome or Led RGB mods? If so lets see them please.
  10. TLDR version - 2015 Yukon Denali with 20inch wheels and 86k miles. Great ride initially, font struts replaced 3 times for leaking since 50k and ride quality horrible. First post after years of learning from the great people on this forum. Have an early 2015 Yukon Denali which had a lot of the initial growing pains for a new model but nothing major. Fast forward to just past 50k miles and ride becomes bumpy to almost violent at times. Dealer replaced front struts which had begun leaking. Ride improved a little but things like speed bumps would throw everyone side to side as well as parking garages with small imperfections that would bounce you out of your seat at 10mph and lower. Most of my miles are highway and beltway at speeds between 65 and 75. This is where the car feels every bump and seems to react side to side rather than up and down. fast forward to 70k+ and ride has gotten worse. Took to different dealer who identifies front struts leaking again and replaces them under extended warranty. Small improvement at highway speeds, but forget about speed bumps or neighborhood roads or driveways with small imperfections. just hit 86k and have now had the struts fail and replaced for 3rd time since the 50k mark. Ride quality has not Improved and actually believe the side to side motion is worse after hitting a imperfection or small bump. Extended warranty expires at 94k at which time I cannot afford to keep replacing $1800 worth of struts every 10-15k. Reaching out for any suggestions or experiences that might help identify what happened to the ride quality. The service department is at a loss.
  11. Anyone put at4 wheels on a last gen model? I got a 16 Denali and there’s an abundance of 20in black at4 wheels for sale and was wondering how it’d look
  12. Has anyone ordered an aftermarket Denali grill online? My truck is a 16 SLT, but I think the addition of a Denali grill would make it look even better. I see all kinds of “Denali style” grills online and don’t want to order one blind just to find out it’s junk. Any reviews are appreciated!
  13. Just picked up my 2021 Yukon Denali. Couldn't be happier with the satin wrap and zero chrome look! Just waiting on the Borla exhaust and my Denali will be complete. This is my first GMC (or American car for that matter) after driving German. Thought I would share some pics.
  14. I just bought a white frost 2019 Sierra Denali and want to blackout all the chrome on it. Anyone have experience doing this? Want to do all the badges, grill, door handles etc. I’m thinking I will take the chrome grill and lower insert around the tow hooks out and acid wash them to remove the chrome and get back to the ABS plastic and have them painted, but didn’t know if there was an option that was better? Here’s a couple of the pictures as is now. I’ve ordered black 22” rims and the leveling kit, but once those are on I want to get the rest of it blacked out. Thanks
  15. So I just got a 2014 Sierra SLT, and I'm wondering, is it compatible with the 2016 Sierra Denali? I have access to one for parts and was hoping if someone could tell me if it's even possible to. Body on the 16 is gone, but the trans and engine and some of the interior is still usable.
  16. Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time.
  17. Hey Guys, New to the forum, and glad to be finally back into a truck after a few years. So I just recently purchased a used 2015 denali 6.2 with 55k miles, and the previous owner installed a leveling kit. Now the problem is that they did not install a relocation bracket for the magneride sensor. I noticed that it seemed to ride rougher than my dads non denali and so I started doing more research on here and other places. I had heard that if you didn't want to go the bracket route, you could have the dealer reset the shocks to zero in the computer so the truck knows its level. Since I had just bought it a little over two weeks ago, I figured I would just take it back to the dealer and make them do it. When I got there and meet with the suspension guy, he said hes done over 100 leveling kits, and hes's never had to put a bracket in there. So he said he wanted to check the shocks to see if they were ok, and once he got it up on the lift, he then noticed that they were leaking and would need to be replaced. He drove it and agreed that the ride was really stiff and said with the new shocks the ride should be 20x's better than before. Since I didnt have to pay for anything I said absolutely, go ahead and replace the front struts. Long story short, got the truck back, and yes the ride is definitely better, but it still feels fairly stiff. So I was hoping that if someone on here had the brackets on their's they could hook me up with some dimensions and I could just make some of my own. I called suspension maxx, but they told me they could only sell me the brackets if I had some sort of proof of purchase, but of course I don't because the previous owner is the one who purchased it. I appreciate any help or advice in advanced. Thanks, Adam
  18. Love my 2019 Denali but couldn't believe my eyes when i came out this morning and saw water on the back passenger side seat. 6 month old 65K truck and it leaks!!! Did a quick search and found others with the exact same problem and the exact same location. Will be calling service center in the morning. Here's another one I found. I took videos and pics if anyone is concerned what to watch for. My son is allergic to mold for me this problem is larger than most. Attached a pic of the headliner, can see how soaked it gets.
  19. This has been an on-going research project of mine. I discovered when I inquired about having the Trail Boss (TB) factory lift kit (GM part# 84629787) added to my 2019 LT Z71, that I could not have the kit installed due to the secondary composite leaf springs on my truck. Upon further investigation, I found that ONLY the LT with 5.3L (and LT with 3.0 diesel and short box) had the composite leaf springs preventing the truck from having a TB lift added. On the GMC side, I found out the Sierra Denali also uses the same leaf springs with composite secondary as the LT 5.3L. My first impression was, “why the heck would GM do this?” Why wouldn’t the LTZ or High Country (HC) have the the composite leaf? Why would only the mid-level LT have it? The Sierra Denali has it and it’s a $60K+ truck. My LT averages around $45K. I might be a little upset as a LTZ or HC owner to find out my rear suspension is the same as on any Custom trim truck, or even, the base W/T model. I’ve doing a lot of reading on composite leaf springs and there are more advantages to them than disadvantages. Though they are dimensionally bigger (thicker) than the steel counterpart, they weight a lot less, last longer, and offer better damping properties than steel. GM has had a good track record using composite leaf springs. The same technology has been used on the corvette since 1997 with the introduction of the C5. Disadvantages are minimal, such as, they are more expensive to produce, can burn up in a fire, and in this case, can’t be further bent or altered out of original specification. This must be the reason GM won’t allow the lift to be added to vehicles with a composite leaf. I’m sure the leaf could take the additional stress, GM engineers just want to play it safer than sorry. So with this, the Silverado LT 5.3L (and LT 3.0 diesel with short bed) and the Sierra Denali are the only trucks to use the composite leaf. Though I’m disappointed I won’t be able to get the TB lift added, I’m now pretty stoked to find out my LT has more mechanical innovation put into the suspension and I didn’t have to spend $15K+ more for a Sierra Denali to get it. However with this, it seems that if someone is looking for a top-end truck, the Denali would be the better choice over the HC which lacks the particular composite leaf spring feature, if that mattered to the buyer. For reference, attached here are the GM compatibility charts for the Silverado and Sierra to see if you can add the TB lift kit. Also here is a link to the previous discussion about the TB lift kit where you can find more detail about installation and issues surrounding the composite leaf springs.
  20. I have a 2000 yykon denali,new battery,alternator,light switch. When you shut the vehicle off and exit with keys,the headlights and tail lamps will sometimes flicker or illuminate. Can hear something like a relay clicking under the dash. Sometimes its all of them and sometimes just park lamps. Advise please.
  21. So, My 2009 Yukon Denali throws the "service battery charging system" message on a daily basis. The little red battery light comes on as well and stays on for varying times. The message seems to only come on while the truck is idling or moving at slow speeds (like when I drive down my muddy driveway or stopped at a light). The battery light may be displayed anywhere between 10 seconds to 30 minutes. Performance of the truck doesn't seem to be hurt in any way however the voltage gauge doesn't stay super consistent while driving. I had the old battery checked and replaced shortly after I bought the truck a couple of months back since it had trouble starting. Other daily symptoms include flickering lights and screens while at idle. Yes, the battery cables are corrosion free and securely attached to the battery itself. Anyone else experience or have a solution to this issue? Thanks! -Eric
  22. Our 2015 Yukon Denali we just bought with 101k miles on it, it rides a little rough. We have driven a tahoe before and it hasn't felt this bad. After doing some research I am finding out the magnetic ride suspension goes bad pretty quickly and becomes a rough ride. I saw somewhere that some people were removing the magnetic ride suspension on denalis and replacing it with the regular suspension thats on the lower trims of yukons and tahoes. Has anyone here done this? If so any issues caused by doing this? Also if anyone has done this, I would be interested in finding out exactly what parts are the best to swap to the regular suspension (part numbers etc.), as there are many different part numbers for the same shocks on gm's parts website, wouldn't know exactly what to start with when it comes to converting the magnetic ride back to standard. Thanks.
  23. So this one is a little complicated I drive a 2011 GMC sierra denali, it has the 6.2L V8 with long tube headers and cold air intake. It has also been tuned trying to fix the issue with no luck. While driving about 30-40 mph it begins to buck or lag like the truck is misfiring but there are no codes and i dont believe it is actually misfiring. it seems to struggle unless i am on the gas constantly. It has a similar issue when in the 50-60 mph range as well. Any other time the truck seems to run fine. The best way to describe the anomaly is it seems to oscillate almost for the time it does this instead of smooth acceleration or smooth cruising. It isnt the tac either, it can be heard in the exhaust that it is not running smooth. The things i have done chasing the problem: New injectors, new spark plugs, oil catch can, new spark plug wires, tune, replaced transfer case, cleaned throttle body, new throttle position sensor, new crank shaft position sensor, cleaned all grounds, new MAF, new MAP, new o2 sensors, new air intake manifold. I am starting to think this truck will never be fixed. HELP WANTED lol Thank you for your time.
  24. I am having issues with my brand new 2015 GMC Yukon Denali. I was so excited to get this new car. It had a leak in the back right rear window from the start. They had to replace the entire headliner in the interior. Now I've got a shiver when in idle both in gear and out of gear. It feels like the car needs more gas. I've taken it into the shop 3 times now. The service department, after listening to my complaint and acknowledging the shiver, ultimately states that the car is "operating as designed". I've test driven a 6.2 liter Denali that does not have this issue. They've stone-walled me at GM, essentially saying they can't fix a problem that doesn't exist. Has anyone else had this issue? You would think that a brand new car wouldn't have this issue, and that they could do something to fix a rough idle. I'm beyond frustrated. I'd love to hear if anyone has the same problem.
  25. I am a proud owner of a GMC Yukon 2016 Denali. Since these cars are not officially available in Europe, I imported a Yukon. Basically, I am very satisfied with the vehicle. But unfortunately, I have a problem with the vehicle, and nobody could help me so far: The car vibrates quite heavily and uncomfortably. The vibrations started when I stopped at the side of the road to let my wife get out. The engine lamp flashed, and the vehicle had hardly any power left. I drove about 1/4 mile, stopped again, and switched off the car. Afterward, I waited for over one minute and then restarted the car. The engine light stayed off, and so I was able to drive on. Also, the power was as usual again. But from there on I had vibrations which I didn't have before. So I went to a service station to read out any errors and get some help. But there were no errors detected. Since the vibrations did not disappear on the next miles, I went to the dealer again. They reprogrammed the ECU unit with the latest software and balanced the tires. Nothing has changed. So I went to another dealer, hoping that it could help me in a better way. They told me that my tires were worn out and that they could cause the vibrations. We changed all four tires. The handling was a bit better afterward, but the vibrations remained. Because in my country there are just about 10 GMC Yukon and a few Escalades driving around, no dealer has a clue and can solve my problem. Therefore I did a lot of research on the internet and on the paid platform of GM (ACDelco TDS) - unfortunately without success so far. I am also familiar with the service bulletins for the 8-speed automatic transmission. But I can exclude these vibrations so far. I have some of these vibrations in my car. However, I have now imported the right oil from Texas by ship, and I will do the oil change within the next days. But the other vibrations are noticeable at any speed, even at only 1 or 2 mph or over 100 mph. Especially when I ride uphill or downhill, it vibrates a lot. As if I had no suspension in the back and the vehicle would bounce around. The vibrations are mainly felt in the seat. Very slightly also in the steering wheel. From the beginning, my car tends to steer slightly to the left. But I never paid much attention to this, because measuring the track showed that everything is ok. I am aware that a remote diagnosis is challenging. But perhaps you have any ideas where I should proceed with my further diagnosis? Is the suspension the right start, the drive shaft, or the wheel mounting? Or could it be the engine mounting? Or something completely different? What is the best way to proceed?
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