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For sale are my set of custom painted, OEM Sierra Denali LED Tail Lights. I had these painted to go on my truck and unfortunately they took so long I had to go a different direction before I got them back.. I have since moved up to a 3/4 diesel and am hoping these can find an owner who will appreciate the time, effort, and $$$ that went into creating them! These OEM LED Tail Lights are selling for $300 - $500 a piece online, and the cost to have these custom painted Mineral Metallic to match the Denali paint + the lens smoked (lightly, not enough to dim them when lit!) was $700 - looking to get $1,000 including shipping. Can cut a better deal if wanting to pick up in person in the Houston, TX area. Please reach out for additional pictures, questions, etc. I respond much quicker via text (405) 642-9097 Thanks! -
or sale are my set of custom painted, OEM Sierra Denali LED Tail Lights. I had these painted to go on my truck and unfortunately they took so long I had to go a different direction before I got them back.. I have since moved up to a 3/4 diesel and am hoping these can find an owner who will appreciate the time, effort, and $$$ that went into creating them! These OEM LED Tail Lights are selling for $300 - $500 a piece online, and the cost to have these custom painted Mineral Metallic to match the Denali paint + the lens smoked (lightly, not enough to dim them when lit!) was $700 - looking to get $1,000 including shipping. Can cut a better deal if wanting to pick up in person in the Houston, TX area. Please reach out for additional pictures, questions, etc. I respond much quicker via text (405) 642-9097 Thanks!
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I recently bought a Sierra 1500 Denali because I love this truck but I am now noticing parts are really hard to find, I want to replace or delete my quad steer but have no idea where to start or look. I haven't been able to find anything in hours. Any help?
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Hey everybody, Just wanted to check in again and let you all know about another exciting service we're happy to be offering... The Denali Cluster Upgrade! Many of you have requested this upgrade and I'm happy to report we have successfully completed the mod. If you're interested in this, you'll need to know a few things. Acquire a new or used GMC Denali cluster. This can be a Sierra or a Yukon cluster. (Please note: If you buy your cluster 2nd hand, DO NOT plug it into your vehicle.) Diesel/Gas: The cluster will need to match some aspects of your current vehicle. For example, if you have a gas spec vehicle you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 6000rpm. If you have a diesel spec vehicle (2500, 3500) you'll need to find a cluster that has an RPM gauge that goes to 5000rpm. Both shown below. MPH/KPH: We can do BOTH USA and Metric market clusters. If you live in the USA, you'll want to get a cluster that has a speedometer that goes up to 140. If you live in a metric country, you'll want a cluster that goes to 200. Both options shown below. COLOR: If you have a GMC and you want to keep your RED color theme, you'll want to find a 2016 GMC Denali cluster. If you have a Silverado, have done a blue conversion, or have upgraded your HMI to the newer blue theme and you're looking for a BLUE gauge theme, you'll want a 2017-2018 Denali cluster. Android Auto/Carplay: For all of you Android Auto users wanting the use of your volume and track selection flippers back, this fixes it!!! once installed you'll once again have access to your flippers. This also allows for the long press of the voice button on the steering wheel to activate Google Assistant as well as Siri for Apple Carplay. Year Matching: There has been a lot of talk that all modules that are installed into the vehicle need to be of the same year. After extensive testing we have found this to be mainly false. As long as the modules are of the same generation you should be A-OK for the install. That means if you have a 2.0 HMI vehicle (2014-2015) you can use a 2014-2015 Denali cluster. If you have a vehicle with a 2.5 HMI (Carplay Enabled, 2016-2018) you can use any 2016-2018 cluster so long as it matches your vehicle specs as mentioned above. And if you have a 2014-2015 and would like to upgrade to a blue themed cluster while adding Android Auto / Carplay, we are more than happy to facilitate the upgrade all at once. Please reach out to me if you have any questions or are interested in getting this mod done to your own vehicle. Thanks for watching and enjoy the demo.
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Long story short, I think I need to buy springs but don't know which ones to select. RockAuto has 27 different "GM Genuine" coil springs for a 2017 GMC Sierra with 6.2L engine. I am wanting to match the spring rate of a 2017 GMC Sierra SLT CrewCab 4x4 6.2L. If someone has this exact truck, maybe they could post their RPO codes please? Or maybe, hopefully, someone has a better idea to get this info? The long story (if you care to read on) is I have the 2017 GMC Sierra Denali CrewCab 4x4 6.2L with MagneRide shocks & struts. The truck has just under 60K miles and the ride quality has degraded over time. I know at least 1 shock is bad due to it leaking, no codes have been thrown on the dash. Due to the mileage and the expense of the MagneRide shocks, I am pursuing replacing them all with conventional shocks and at the same time, getting my truck level. Several options on the market claiming great ride quality but I'm leaning towards the Bilstein 5100's that I've had on past trucks or the Eibach ProTruck kit E80-23-006-02-22 for $704 that sound great too but I'll need to buy strut mounts and deal with compressing those beasts (others have had issues). Or possibly the RoughCountry E2 loaded struts #501029 - inexpensive but not sure on ride quality + reliability or maybe even Fox 2.0's if I can find them for a good price. I would even consider the Belltech coilovers #15102 for $650 /pair if I could find someone running them with a positive review. If/since my MagneRide coil springs aren't the same/compatible, with some kits including the Bilsteins, I'll need to buy new springs, which isn't a huge deal since they aren't too expensive - some as low as $34. I know Eibach's kit comes with springs included but it appears they have a higher spring rate for trucks with extra weight on the front of their trucks. Of course, I'll need to deal with the MRC electronics, cheapest I've found is https://www.magdelete.com/collections/sierra-1500 and I may end up just getting the entire kit from him but don't know which springs are used with his either... It does make some sense that there are so many different GM Genuine coil springs due to there being 3 different engines available, 3 different cab sizes and 4 different trims... I do zero off-roading or towing and am just looking for a nice street ride with a leveled look. I welcome input on anything I've said but I'm mainly looking for the proper conventional OEM spring that will match best with my truck.
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Hey everyone. I have a 2016 Sierra Denali. A while back I opted to do away with the magnaride struts and installed BIlstein 6112s in the front with Cognito UCAs and BIlstein 5100s in the rear, also added Xineering bypass kit to clear the Magnaride errors. I had an issue recently with the stop mount on the drivers side strut blowing out. I contacted BIlstein about it and the rep told me he thought he had been told that the distance between the LCA and where the strut mounts into the truck frame at the top on a magnaride equipped Denali is shorter than a normal Sierra and that it was possible that the strut was too compressed, causing it to push through the top mount. Has anyone ever heard this or experienced this issue? I can’t find anything mentioned about it anywhere. I’m taking the truck in next week to get it fixed but if it’s going to just happen again I am wondering if I need to get different struts all together.
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Hi All, Hopefully I placed this in the correct sub-forum... I am due to replace my tires on my 2019 Sierra 1500 Denali with the stock 22" wheels. This means the tire size is 275/50/R22 which really limits tire availability. I have considered goin with a 285/45/R22 as that opens up more options. It is 2.1% shorter so hoping it's not going to be an issue with the speedo and mileage staying pretty close to accurate? Thoughts on that tire size? Thoughts? Concerns? How much is this really affecting my annual mileage if we say 10k miles per year? I suspect warranty company is fine with it as my mileage will add up a little faster... Any other tire sizes you guys recommend that open up options that wont require any recalibration to speedo? In any case, I live in MN and we have a lot of snowy road days and we ice fish, etc. Using the stock tires on the lake this year was.... well... not good. I got stuck. I would like something that will perform better on snow but also not be real noisy. I have a Denali truck with no real mods because I have finally reached an age where all I want to hear in my truck is my music and nothing else lol. So road noise is a huge factor. I had a Trail Boss as a loaner for the weekend and the aggressive tire profile on those were AWFUL. But the standard all-season tire on a truck that is the same for a car just isn't it. Is there a good all-terrain tire than is quite? Does that even exist? Looking for any input and experience any of you have on the matter. Also considering the Continental Terrain Contact A/T as well. Reviews seem to indicate they are very quiet on road as well. These are also a 285/45/R22 (smaller diamter/circumfrence). can changing from a 50 to a 45 series tire affect road noise and comfort a lot? I had 24s on an Escalade running 30 or 35 series tires and they didn't seem to sacrifice comfort, but its been a while. -
Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is. -
Hello everyone, On my 2020 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali I did a hood air induction vent swap for a chrome vent cover and while I was at it I added Led RGB lights inside the vent taking care not to restrict the air flow. Has anyone else done any chrome or Led RGB mods? If so lets see them please. -
2004 Yukon Denali XL 1500 AWD Ok, so I have done many brakes in the past but this has me stumped. I put new calipers rotors and pads all the way around on the truck and have bled the brakes like 6 times. twice with a helper and 4 times with a bottle. All times the fluid comes out with no air but it still goes to the floor when its turned on. A small amount of push back is noticed after pumping a few times while the truck is off. But as soon as I turn it on and push its nothing. I have read about there possibly being air in the ABS module and am looking for how to bleed that with just one person and have it actually work. The master cylinder is and has been filled throughout and never dropper too low. I placed all the new parts and puller the hose off the old calipers and attached it to the new ones quickly replacing the copper washers. I just cant figure out what could be happening, any help would be appreciated.
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Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time. -
Just a heads up the 2021 map update is missing important changes massachusetts has made to their highway exit numbers. Mass decided to change them, that's why I updated at the cost of $99. Just to find out GMC did not include them. When I contacted them I was told the changes will be in next years update.
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Hello, i need some help with my 2016 Yukon Denali... so here is what’s going on and what I know... I took it in to the dealer 2 weeks ago to have the Magna Ride shocks replaced in the front.. I asked them if the rear air rides were fine and they told me they were just fine, I Imediately noticed a better ride when the front shocks replaced but started noticing a very loud sound every time I would go over any type of bump. So I called them back and ask them if they were sure that the rears were fine and they assured me they were. After some personal investigating I noticed that the driver side rear is very soft and bouncy and and the passenger side rear is extremely stiff. I did test the air compressor and seemingly working OK. Does anybody know why one shock would be very stiff and the other shock would be soft? Additionally I took it to a local suspension shop and they also told me that they were fine. I find it very hard to believe that one shock is stiff and one shock is soft. I noticed on the stiff shock that it looks like there is a little bit of dust buildup on it indicating a possible leak of fluid. So I did another little test on my own and I took the truck over some speed bumps and the driver side rear when I went over the speedbump glided right over it and made no road noise I can’t say the same for the passenger side rear when I went over the speedbump it made very loud noise and it was extremely stiff . -
I am having issues with my brand new 2015 GMC Yukon Denali. I was so excited to get this new car. It had a leak in the back right rear window from the start. They had to replace the entire headliner in the interior. Now I've got a shiver when in idle both in gear and out of gear. It feels like the car needs more gas. I've taken it into the shop 3 times now. The service department, after listening to my complaint and acknowledging the shiver, ultimately states that the car is "operating as designed". I've test driven a 6.2 liter Denali that does not have this issue. They've stone-walled me at GM, essentially saying they can't fix a problem that doesn't exist. Has anyone else had this issue? You would think that a brand new car wouldn't have this issue, and that they could do something to fix a rough idle. I'm beyond frustrated. I'd love to hear if anyone has the same problem.- 93 replies
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I have a 2011 GMC Sierra Denali with a park assist problem I’m hoping someone can help me solve. A couple months ago, I started getting a sporadic “park assist blocked” error. This is pretty common as the sensors are covered in snow in the winter. However, I then noticed the sensors began to work sporadically even if they were clear. A month or so after that, the message changed to “service park assist” and the system automatically disables itself. The button on the dash shows the system is off all the time and when I try to turn it back on, the orange light flashes for two seconds but then disables itself again. I’ve checked the fuse and unplugged the battery but have not been able to get it to reset. Does this seem like a sensor issue or a control module? Any ideas for next steps? Unfortunately since the system is disabled all the time I can’t check to see if one sensor is malfunctioning as I’ve read about on other forums. Update: when I started my truck once this week it randomly worked for 10 seconds then disabled itself again and hasn’t worked since.
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I just bought a pre-owned 2015 Yukon Denali and I Love it! I've been waiting for the feel of a big V8 engine with 4 wheel drive so this girl can dirty on any road.. It's beautiful and I'm SO happy to own a sexy Denali. I've only had it for two weeks so I'm learning every thing about it with each drive. So far the engine purrs and all gauges read level. It's got 98k mi on it so I'm expecting it to have some wear and tear. So just yesterday morning I pulled away from a stop sign and gave a good rev got up to 50mph in a few sec... and as I approached a slow zone I took my foot off the gas.. lowered speed to about 25 then gave it a little more gas while going up a slight hill in the road and I hear what sounded like a knocking noise. I took my foot off the gas and the sound went away. So on the drive home where I have to ascend up to about 2200 ft elevation it did it again as I was coasting and had to accelerate from 25 to around 30 mph I kept my foot on the gas this time (engine sounding smooth as silk) and continued uphill about 45mph and the sound went away. It's always a short knocking/rattling sound. Not in the engine but below me, definitely upfront. I've got an appt at GMC next week but until then I'd love to figure it out. Not sure what other details you need but any one got any idea? Thanks everyone! -Dia -
TLDR version - 2015 Yukon Denali with 20inch wheels and 86k miles. Great ride initially, font struts replaced 3 times for leaking since 50k and ride quality horrible. First post after years of learning from the great people on this forum. Have an early 2015 Yukon Denali which had a lot of the initial growing pains for a new model but nothing major. Fast forward to just past 50k miles and ride becomes bumpy to almost violent at times. Dealer replaced front struts which had begun leaking. Ride improved a little but things like speed bumps would throw everyone side to side as well as parking garages with small imperfections that would bounce you out of your seat at 10mph and lower. Most of my miles are highway and beltway at speeds between 65 and 75. This is where the car feels every bump and seems to react side to side rather than up and down. fast forward to 70k+ and ride has gotten worse. Took to different dealer who identifies front struts leaking again and replaces them under extended warranty. Small improvement at highway speeds, but forget about speed bumps or neighborhood roads or driveways with small imperfections. just hit 86k and have now had the struts fail and replaced for 3rd time since the 50k mark. Ride quality has not Improved and actually believe the side to side motion is worse after hitting a imperfection or small bump. Extended warranty expires at 94k at which time I cannot afford to keep replacing $1800 worth of struts every 10-15k. Reaching out for any suggestions or experiences that might help identify what happened to the ride quality. The service department is at a loss. -
Anyone put at4 wheels on a last gen model? I got a 16 Denali and there’s an abundance of 20in black at4 wheels for sale and was wondering how it’d look
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Has anyone had a rear compressor issue with a new Yukon XL Denali? My wife and I bought the vehicle at the beginning of October 2018 and within a month the rear compressor began running excessively. We took it into the dealership with bought it from and the service rep heard the noise but was unable to reproduce it later in the day with the technician so they sent us away with the vehicle. The noise became more and more regular so we took it to a dealership near our house and they heard it and acknowledged the problem, this lead them to replacing the rear compressor. The change of the rear compressor didn't do the trick and the excessive running persisted, this is where the frustration really set in. The service technicians were going to run diagnostics and service the vehicle after we brought it in MLK Day. The service department manager interrupted the process and essentially tried to bully my wife into accepting the fact that this is normal behavior for a GMC Denali line vehicle. She left the dealership in tears. I called the service manager in disagreement with 1) his treatment of my wife and 2) disputing the fact this is normal. His response was the discharge the video with a bogus report emphasize the vehicle was in intended working condition. Now the Denali is sitting at another dealership while they try to replicate the issue. It occurs 30-40% of the trips we take in the vehicle and the rear compressor will run anywhere from a few seconds to 20 minutes. Has anyone else had this issue and found a resolution? I'm to the point I'm almost willing to just sell the vehicle back for a loss to be rid of it. -
Recently I noticed my navigation not working in my 2016 Sierra Denali. The GPS has a red X over it. I have done some research and most people are saying the green onstar light on the rearview mirror turned red when they had an issue. Mine is still lit green but no GPS signal. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a fix?
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Hey Guys, New to the forum, and glad to be finally back into a truck after a few years. So I just recently purchased a used 2015 denali 6.2 with 55k miles, and the previous owner installed a leveling kit. Now the problem is that they did not install a relocation bracket for the magneride sensor. I noticed that it seemed to ride rougher than my dads non denali and so I started doing more research on here and other places. I had heard that if you didn't want to go the bracket route, you could have the dealer reset the shocks to zero in the computer so the truck knows its level. Since I had just bought it a little over two weeks ago, I figured I would just take it back to the dealer and make them do it. When I got there and meet with the suspension guy, he said hes done over 100 leveling kits, and hes's never had to put a bracket in there. So he said he wanted to check the shocks to see if they were ok, and once he got it up on the lift, he then noticed that they were leaking and would need to be replaced. He drove it and agreed that the ride was really stiff and said with the new shocks the ride should be 20x's better than before. Since I didnt have to pay for anything I said absolutely, go ahead and replace the front struts. Long story short, got the truck back, and yes the ride is definitely better, but it still feels fairly stiff. So I was hoping that if someone on here had the brackets on their's they could hook me up with some dimensions and I could just make some of my own. I called suspension maxx, but they told me they could only sell me the brackets if I had some sort of proof of purchase, but of course I don't because the previous owner is the one who purchased it. I appreciate any help or advice in advanced. Thanks, Adam -
I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this? -
For sale is a set of tri-fold running boards in great shape, includes required module. These can be retrofitted to 14-18 trucks using a harness, there is a topic on how to install these. Retrofit harness can be purchased from @pgamboa https://harnessdr.com/ $500 local pickup, will drive to meet for the right deal Washington, Michigan
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We have a 2016 Yukon 6.2L which developed a rattle at approximately 60k miles. Initially I believed the source of the rattle was a heat shield, but everything seems to be tight. It has been to the dealer twice and no progress has been made to resolve the issue. The first time they dismissed the problem and called it "normal" and the second time they believe it's a broken baffle weld in the muffler. What do you think? Thanks in advance Video with several angles from under the vehicle demonstrating the issue. The problem only surfaces when the vehicle inters v4 mode. Also, the rattle is so loud it is picked up by the Knock Sensors and it pulling timing. Scan performed with HP Tuners VCM Scanner. -
Okay, after 11 months of agonizing mishaps, set backs and over all triumph, I figured it was time to immortalize my truck in a new post. Please welcome my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 7.0 (427) Turbo Build! Block: Texas Speed and Performance Darton sleeved boost ready block; 7.0L (427). TSP Forged wet sump crankshaft 4.0" stroke 6.125 Boost specific billet I-Beam Rods CP 4.125 -12cc Dish Pistons w/upgraded wrist pins. Clevite main bearings Clevite rod bearings ARP Main stud kit Cylinder Heads/ Intake Precision Race Components ported Cylinder Heads w/ valve job PAC spring/ Valve Kit. Comp Cams rocker arms/trunion Texas Speed & Performance SV Camshaft +30% fuel lobe TSP AFM delete kit Lingenfelter ported 95mm throttle body Ported L86 intake manifold. All ARP bolts or studs. Fuel: GM ZR1 high volume fuel injectors GM ZR1 fuel pump (high side) Armageddon 465 LPH in tank fuel pump (low side) Snow Performance Stage 3 Meth Kit with controller and braided lines. Turbo: Borg Warner S480 T6 Turbo 1.32 AR billet 110/96mm. Turbo smart 50mm BOV Turbo Smart 60mm waste gate Pro Boost controller fully titanium wrapped exhaust Cooling/Oil separators Mishimoto fully aluminum Radiator Mishimoto R-Line Intercooler 31x 12x 4” Mishimoto HD Trans Cooler 2X Mishimoto Black Aluminum catch cans. Mishimoto 180 degree thermostat. Transmission/driveline: Circle D pro 3 torque converter 2700 stall. Custom 5" 6061 aluminum driveshaft rated for 1,200hp 7,300trq MORE to come. I need to get the final tune with the new block. Still runs very well on the old 6.2 tune however, going up to 7.0 adds a layer of goofy on vacuum or under boost.. Next steps Get the PATC Stage 4 transmission kit stuffed into my 6L80E and retune to 900+ whp! Hoping to have that underway around March! Let me know what you all think. Ask any question. I'm open to where I purchased parts, cost of build etc. especially my opinion getting into a build like this.
