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  1. TIA for your help and time… BLUF: Ticking noise under truck, not heard from top of engine compartment. I noticed a ticking/clicking/pinging noise under my truck today, took a video, hopefully you can hear it. Anyone else? Truck was in Park and Neutral (Parking brake engaged) and still heard the sounds.
  2. I normally get vehicles without sunroofs, because the headliner height is lower on vehicles with sunroofs and the headliner presses the left side of my head to the right in the driver seat (confirmed this in a 2019 3500HD on the dealers lot last month). I'm 6'3" and it's mostly in my torso. Does anyone know if the height of the headliner in the front cabin becomes equal with the rear headliner height if the sunroof is not optioned in (in other words without the sunroof is the headliner is closer to the actual roof panel since it's not hiding the sunroof mechanical under it)? I'm hoping to order my 2020 GMC 3500HD Denali SRW soon and this is the one option I'm not sure about yet. I don't care about resell or trade in values because I'm keeping this truck for at least the next 20 years, but if there is no height difference I might as well get the sunroof and pre-pay for my chiropractor.
  3. Thanks for the add. Greetings All!! Going to start my membership, by asking what I hope is an easy question. On an online site, they have a deal on a power retractable tonneau cover that I really like, (like same price as non-powered), but I also just installed a Weather Guard tool box. My hope/want is that I can put the retractable canister in back of the toolbox, (tailgate side) and then mount my onboard air tank under it, with the compressor in the toolbox. Finally my question is; will the electric cover stop at my tailgate automatically? I understand I have to cut the rails to accept the canister in the different location, but the cover stopping in the correct stop has me guessing what other mods I’ll have to do. please help ASAP, as I do not know how long this deals gonna last. Thank you! Collin 2018 GMC Sierra Denali 3500hd
  4. Morning, It was suggested that I place the write up on the custom gauge installation in this section so I will do just that. A bit of background: this truck is brand new with just under 8000 km on the clock. It has already seen -45C and some off road conditions. I am a business owner (Arrowsmith Project Management Limited) and this is one of my trucks. First: a special thanks to everyone who has discussed the upfitter switches using the GM parts. I was very excited about that and was going to go that way but with discussions at the local parts counter about being my responsibility and that it would void the warranty and such I decided to do my own thing as all of this 12V stuff just needs a source and a ground. No ECM or other modules to plug into etc. Second, because I bounce down roads everything has to be solid, secure and of industrial grade to not fall apart in the middle of nowhere. Here is the installation process. FYI get the right tools - in this case the trim removal tools or you could end up with scratches and nicks like this. (PIC 1) PIC 2 and 3 - OEM trim of the AT4 before PIC 4 and 5 - Pay close attention to how things come apart - watch all the videos and read all the existing write ups on removal of panels. This TAKES TIME. Go slow and be patient. There are 2 clips that will break if your removal of the console lower trim piece on either side is removed in haste. PIC 6, 7 and 8 - The removal process. PIC 9, 10, 11 and 12 - Switch locations and layout - plan this out carefully. measure as many times as you need to. Take lots of pictures. I opted to use the OEM location as best I could for 2 switches. These ones control my front light bar from Bright Source and Strands. It has a main ON/OFF and a secondary driving light in both amber and white. This resulted in first installing a SPST rocker and a SPST moment switch. The moment was later swapped out for a SPDT rocker. I had a little trimming to do under the knee bolster panel. PIC 13, 14 and 15 - Trimming the drivers side lower console panel - this was done to house the cluster of switches for all the other goodies I need. (Reverse Alarm (1), Buggy Whip (1), Overhead Rotating Beacon (2), winch (1) and rear facing service lights (1))
  5. So ive been seeing the conversion on 08-13 Sierras , and very popular on Silverados even the 14-16 conversions. On feb 1 some jack ass cut me off and hit my front bumper and fender , lucky for him i was already looking into doing a 2018 denali headlight conversion with the gen5 wiring harness and 2015 HD front bumper with 2500 all terrain grille To keep the theme going. As I researched could not find anything on the 2014-2018 sierras being converted to HD , all the guys i saw on IG with them had shops or buddys do them. Some guys welded either the 1500 or 2500 brackets lower ,enlogated the holes lower, redrilled , some had no gap -some liked oem gap between the grille/fenders. I did find two guys I kept intouch with they were a lot of help. One sent me pictures on how to re-drill the stock bumper brackets lower and cut some parts off it to clear the bumper , the other told me 1/2 above the existing holes . I took it upon myself to source a complete front bumper from ebay with everything $750 with shipping all i have to do is paint it , found a all terrain grille on ebay for $300 , had to buy the 2500 bumper guides and 2500 bumper fillers no luck on hood yet.while the parts arrived i bought the 2018 denali lights from fankie on here and the harness from gen5 easy bolt on by the way. When all the parts arrived i grabbed my grinder and drill . To start i took the 15torque head screws and 7mm from the sides of the wheel wells , took the 12 plastic clips from the upper cover , removed the 4 top 10mm bolts ,pulled off the bumper filler pieces between the grille and bumper , exposing the 10mm 4 bottom grille bolts , then removed the grille. Gaining access to the 4 18mm bolts that hold the bumper on the brackets, i loosened but did not remove till i went under the front bumper and removed the 2 outter 15mm bolts that hold the bottom of the bumper , i loosened the inner 15mm bolts but did not remove , once that was done i removed all 18mm bolts holding the bumper and took it off . Once off the stock 1500 bumper brackets have 3 15mm bolts in a triangle pattern, i removed all 6 and removed the tow hooks , the tow hooks will be eliminated from this . Once i had the brackets off i measured 1/2 inch above each hole . Now this is important if you want oem gap like myself i drilled a hole slightly bigger than the bolt going threw at the center of that 1/2 mark . If you dont want gap id suggest drilling under the 1/2 mark and possibly enlongating that hole down wards for adjustment. By drilling the hole a 1/2 inch higher it drops the bracket to clear the 2500 grille . In addition to redrilling the bracket you have to cut an L shape on top right next to the top bolt that the bracket has , i actually cut the bottom of the bracket and eliminated the bottom slot for the second 18mm hole because i was having issues lining up , ended up not being the problem , i found that out of the 6 15mm bracket bolts you only use 4 the top and inside 15mm the outter 15mm that completes the triangle actually hits the hd front bumper and it sags in the back ,so removing levels the bumper flush , i tried grinding the head down and still no luck removing was the fix. With the bumper off , you want to remove the 1500 bumper guides 3(7mm) bolts rachet wrench works best and socket aswell , install the 2500 bumper guides with same bolts same place these support and clip on to the new 2500 bumper filler pieces under headlights which youll have to buy . They clip and slide right on , the two bottom outter 10mm bolts that held the old grille will hold these in place and the other two 10mm in the middle from the old grille will be eliminated. See pictures.To finish securing the bumper filler and guides you have to screw the 7mm and 15 torque screws by fender trim , you will either have to buy the 2500 or 18 fender trim pieces or just trim yours roughly enough to bolt on the remark to trim perfectly and level like i did cant even tell .So Once the guides and fillers are installed grab the redrilled bumper bracket to your liking in gap, make sure its clearanced with the L shape you can rebolt bolt to frame leaving the outter 15mm off at that point you can lay the new bumper on the brackets rebolt the top 18mm bolts the bottoms wont line up -i eliminated by grinding off ,see pic -you can reconnect the lower 15mm outter brace and tighten , youll find out that it bolts right up and if you drilled at 1/2 center like me you keep that stock oem gap maybe a bit tighter gap actually but it looks good , you can then install the grille by pushing the clips in and only bolting on the the top 4 10mm bolts once done youll find that the gap is nearly perfect if you drilled at center of the 1/2 mark , some drill under the 1/2 mark to get less gap and some enlongate the hole lower towards the original hole to adjust and have no gap , but i see that as rubbing issues with paint. sorry for rambling on on the install , i will try to post all my pictures size will be limited and ill go back to proof read fix anything that i missed. Let me know waht you guys think or if you need help
  6. Hey guys, Cold weather has made me take out my winter front for my grille for the first time. It has a convenient hole for the camera but looks awful as 4 inches of the grill on either side are still showing. Is everyone else’s like this or did the dealership give me the wrong one?
  7. So, I want to know what it would take or if it can be done, switching some heated/ac seats out of a Cadillac Escalade Platinum model into my 2007 GMC Sierra 3500HD SLT. Then also switching the control panel in the center console for it also. I just want to know if anyone has done this and if it can be added and done???
  8. The picture that shows 2500 and 3500 both they look better
  9. Bolt on tube light mount w/ 9" LED lights and grill covers for 2015-2019 Silverado HD trucks. 100% bolt on to factory locations and adjustable for your setup. Billet grill covers and customized bumper grill to fit the light mount. Includes four of the higher diode count 225w 9" LED lights with flood light diffusers covers and wiring pigtail. Four of these lights turn night into day. Unless local thinking $500 shipped (conus) for the whole package.
  10. Just bought 3500HD GMC Denali SRW and looking for some good mud flaps. I am leaving this truck stock and will be towing a boat. Tough to see how they will fit/look as a lot of the websites don't show them on the truck. Suggestions?
  11. I unfortunately am having an issue with our trucks Infotainment System. It seems that none of the buttons or screen functions will work besides the volume and the mute. It is acting like someone may have locked it out or something like that happened. It still connected Bluetooth to my phone, but the tethering is not working with the cable. Is there a way to unlock it without taking it to a dealer if someone (who thinks they are funny) has locked it out? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  12. Okay, so we all know that what's in the published specs is rarely the real payload of the truck. For those of you lucky enough to have your 2020 HDs delivered already, could you please share what your configuration and trim level are, and what does the door sticker say your payload and tow rating are?
  13. Hey all, we're a local Chevy dealer with a strong ecommerce presence. We have the lowest prices on the Kicker subwoofer package for the 2014+ Silverado & Sierra Crew & Double/Extended Cab sizes. Installation does not require dealer install. it is a plug and play package. We have guaranteed low prices that shouldn't be beat! GM offers a few versions of these units: -Double Cab and Crew Cab models have different parts numbers -GM offers just a sub upgrade, or the sub upgrade plus amplifier on the door speakers. *The standard Sub upgrade works with the Bose system. *The kit including Sub plus Amp on the door speakers will NOT work with Bose systems. For a price, please send us a message with your body style truck, and which kit you would be interested in plus your Zip Code for shipping. Everything is in stock ready to ship. Forum members will find that our prices on all GM accessories will be hard to beat. Please message me with any questions on this or any other accessory you may need for your truck. *** Currently running a little bit of a deeper discount on the crew cab models, with just the sub upgrade. Buy cheap, sell cheap is the name of the game ***
  14. While going through the build and pricing on a SRW Duramax I noticed they offer a heavier front spring option for $45. Does anyone know why and what affect that would have on the ride quality?
  15. https://www.gmc.com/build-and-price Currently, only AT4 & Denali Crew Cabs are listed.
  16. I replaced these wheels with aftermarket at the 2,000 mile mark. They are like new, as you can see in the pictures. I'm selling them all together (four Denali wheels, the spare, and five Goodyear Wranglers with full tread life). The Wranglers are 265/70R18. The 8x180 lug pattern is for the HDs, but they can be adapted to different lug patterns if you're trying to update an older model truck. They're all beautiful with no curb scuffs or damage of any kind. I'm asking $1,000 for all five, but I'm somewhat flexible on that if you make a solid offer early. You can come pick them up, or I'm willing to ship them if you're willing to pay the shipping. PM me if interested or post publicly if you have any questions that could benefit the group.
  17. https://www.gmc.com/trucks/choose-your-sierra-heavy-duty-pickup-truck Click on the 2020 button in the red if it doesn't show up by default:
  18. https://www.tfltruck.com/2019/06/2020-chevy-silverado-hd-pricing/
  19. Hello all, came up with a combo to replace stock wheels and trying to see if it'll work out and if I am thinking about the fitment correctly. Truck in question is a 2019 GMC 3500 SRW Denali - completely stock and I'd like to see if I can run 305/55-20s without having to add a lift or level Stock wheels: 18in x 8in +44 (I think) Stock tires: 265/70-18 I was looking at maybe going with XD822 Monster II 20x9 +18 with 305/55-20 tire mounted So the new rim is 1 inch wider but given offset is less +18 vs +44 by almost exactly 1 inch the inner aspect of the rim and tire will be the same as stock. Just the tire will stick out 1 inch further to the outside. The stock tire should be 32.6" tall given its sizing. The 305/55-20 would run 0.6" taller at 33.2" height. Sidewall will be 0.7in shorter on new tires and rim would clearly be 2 in taller. In the stock setup there appears to have plenty to clearance and I'm speculating it could accommodate the 0.6 inch increase in size without difficulty and the width would only be increased outward so shouldn't impact the fit. Think this would work? Has anyone tired anything like this? Poking around on here it looks like most people add at least a level kit prior to tires.
  20. I currently have a 2011 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 4x4 Diesel Crew Cab, short bed. It's my perfect truck, it's exactly what I want, it's exactly what I need. I have equity in it and I decided to refinance... It has 152K miles. Bank said, you qualify for the loan but your truck doesn't : - ( Truck has to be under 125K miles. It can be an older truck but not high miles. So I'm in the market for basically the same thing but lower miles. I'm wanting to keep my price down, cash in on some equity and keep my payments the same or lower. If A truck at $20K gets my payments lower. $25K my payments are the same. $30K my payments go up. I don't want to go over $30K unless there's a compelling reason to do so. My truck gets used 4 to 6 times per month on average. Either to haul hay or haul horses. I'm leaning towards more of a ranch vehicle right now. At the same time, I've got a 2011 and I'm not super excited about downgrading either. I'd just keep mine but I need to take my equity and pay off some higher interest loans. I'd appreciate some suggestions... Here's what I've been looking at: A 2005 Silverado 3500 HD fully loaded for $20K with 123K miles on it. The only thing it doesn't have is the exhaust brake which I can add. Are the 2005's a good way to go? This one is local. Next one up is a 2011 GMC Sierra 2500 Extended Cab 116K miles for $25K I'm looking at two 2013's -- a Sierra 3500 ext. cab for $30K with 120K miles (local) and a Silverado crew cab with 115K miles for $28K (8 hours away) I drove a 2012 with 80K miles that I can probably get for around $34K It's over my budget but what a nice truck! This one is local The best deal I've found is 3 hours away on a 2015 Silverado 2500LT for 30K with low miles. If that one is still available I might have to go for it just because it's a great deal! Only three of the trucks on this list are close by. The best deals on this list I'd have to travel a couple hundred miles to get to 'em. What are some other great years to consider? Should I consider anything older than 2011? The 2011 has all the factory built in towing features that I love. But that 2005 is a really good deal on a nice truck too. Thanks in advance for your recommendations.
  21. I put this on a week ago but wanted to post some pics. Basically a bolt on tip like the 1500 (double wall, rolled edge, stainless) so after looking I could only 1 without aftermarket name branded all over it and still retain the OEM cooling design because all the other tips that were vented are single wall. Magnaflow (part # 35233) 5” inlet 6” outlet. It did not come with a clamp so I used a double bolt one for an 18-wheeler from NAPA (part # 733-3225). I did have to cut 10” of the OEM pipe off and it sticks out about 1/4” more. Let me know what you think or if you need any other info. Cost was around 100 bucks.
  22. Post info you find from today's Media event at the Flint Plant here! Detailed TFL Truck video:
  23. Hello How it going? I wanted post and ask some questions as along the way and see if I am crazy enough to upgrade and discuss about modifying a stock GMC 2016 4x4 2500HD 6.0L Gas suspension system. The truck needed a nice smooth riding stability control system on it's suspension system and along it needed to takes more weight load carrying capacity controls from major loads when towing big loads from over hauling trailers. Plus even on it's no-loads capacity as well when you need to drive on a everyday needs in all conditions from all driving ability and keep safe from going out of control from all major issues on the roads conditions on a stock 2500HD/3500HD, I can tell things are getting out of control as conditions are getting worsts beyond our controls when dealing with a stock HD trucks suspension system on a bad roads conditions. Anyway I wanted to upgrade this truck to improve the truck without spending to much money but enough for the truck to drive better than possible so here some ideas and list of parts of modifications that I have studied and thought about thought I post something asked and shared and discuss as asking some ideas for some upgrades. Thanks for helping guys as I need some helps. So far I already installed a rear Hellwig Big Wig Sway bar the model # is 7270 and have it on the medium setting on the links holes for the sway bars as it on the #2 holes. The center hole is considered is medium setting. The far out as #1 hole is the lose setting and far back to the axle #3 hole is tighter setting for the sway bar settings. And I have to say I already feel a huge improvements to the rear suspension by adding a rear sway bar. I can tell by it does prevents the waving as rocking side to side when driving into a drive ways or pulling into a intersections or running over pot holes or curbs or jumping over a railways or hills and some major improvements on things like those quadruple humps and ripples as dips on the road that make your whole truck shake everywhere and wobbling back and forth from going over on those melted asphalt from the roads and highways as it swerves out of control at a high speed and including hauling something that makes it bounce everywhere even to lose control on a empty bed. Plus the improvements over driving into by turning fast and pilling out or in front of the traffic as keeping the truck lock down on the road to pull in and it enforce it from leaning over, keeping the truck from waving over as swerving out of control from rocking by it side. And the sway bar does improve towing. It help you to control your trailer from losing out of control from a dodge moments on cars and winds and other moments to prevent your trailer from wobbling on a highways. Keep the back end stable as twisting the roll body of the truck especially pillingout on a burn out. it been been lot of flooding in Texas lately and I need to spray paint it black and painted the u bolts as well as keeping it from rusting including the axle drive staff joint. Rust is a disease to metal. I only have this 3 months of use of this Hellwig and this truck has 9,786 miles on it. Now the questions is do I needed to go ahead and buy the front sway bar? And put a bigger heavier duty links as well that hooks on to the front sway bars? I don't know what size the is the original stock front sway bars as in inches from as American scale, so far, I founded out the size it is 1.250 of a inch? Is that 1 inch and 3/8 in size? or is that 1 and half of a inch? And the links that came with the truck looks little poor. Looks like it needed to be on a 1500 models trucks and asking for a bigger set of links to control the front of the sway bars on the 2500HD front end suspension. But anyway the Hellwig has a 1 and 1/2 of a inch in thickness of the sway bar and if the the truck stock sway bars is the same size then I don't need to get it it be a waste of money by having the same size bars. I don't know if that make anything big of a different but maybe it will in tightness of a sway bars as for front suspension system if it little bigger right? Anyway here are the list of the modifications upgrades for the suspension system packages that are listed for a smooth ride with major medium payloads capability. Feel free to post some idea of some more modifications suspension system for a stock GMC /Chevy 4x4 2500HD / 3500HD 2014 to 2019. Hellwig Rear Sway Bar 7270.......Weight: 8,000lbs Hellwig Front Sway Bar 7716......Weight: 5,000lbs Hellwig Leaf Helper Springs Stabilizer LP-3512.....Weight: 3500lbs Leaf Spring Shocks Absorbed Sulastic Shackle For Axle SA-06...Non-affect load carrying capacity BDS NX2 Single Steering Stabilizer with Mounting Bracket Kit.....Get Boot Cover Protection PPE Stage 3 Tie Rod Assemblies #158031511.....Has Larger Ball Joints and Staff SuperSpring Front Sumo Spring SSF-202-54......Weight: 2000lbs SuperSpring Rear Sumo Spring SSR-203-40-2....Weight: 2600lbs Max at 80% 3000lbs G2 GM 10.5" 14 Bolt Rear Brute Ball Milled Aluminum Differential Axle Cover.....Amsoil 95W-140 Gear Oil Fox Shocks 2.5 Reservoir Front and Rear. These are my upgrades for a medium high performance stabilizer for the truck suspension system modifications. As for tires and rims I would love to have a 20 inch rims with 285/65/20 tires Or 18 inch rims with 285/70/18 tires one day. This should improves the overalls of the trucks capability right? Dream engine on this truck is LS1 427 32V 6.2L 25MPG on this 2500HD 4.10 gear ratio with the twin as y air filter intake system with dual exhaust .... Goals <3.. I wish I could afford this and to put a 8 speed tranny on it.
  24. Have a custom mid-pipe I built to install an aftermarket muffler (Magnaflow 12909) in my 2015 2500hd 6.0 truck. I removed the muffler and went back to stock so have this left over. This makes a cleaner install and saves your mid pipe if you want to revert back to stock. The aftermarket mufflers don't have as much offset as factory and the factory mid-pipe has a offset in it that accounts for that. With this straight mid-pipe it works perfect with the less offset of the aftermarket muffler and allows everything to be installed level with the truck. Here is my post about the muffler with additional info: I had this on a crew cab, 6.5' bed 4x4 truck. I'm sure other cab/bed configurations might need this lengthened or shortened but at least the hard part of the flange and hangers are done. Asking $75 for this custom mid-pipe. How it looked installed. muffler not included. Factory muffler to show the drop offset in the original mid-pipe.
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