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Found 19 results

  1. Hey guys, I have a 2007 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ with the 5.3 L engine. Truck has over 300,000 km now. Just fixing up some odds and ends on it, and I noticed I have some red transmission fluid dripping from the small inspection hole at the rear part of the transmission bellhousing (right before the pan). I have attached a picture. Any ideas where this would be coming from? Thank you!
  2. I recently did a dod delete on my 2007 suburban. 6.0 200,000 miles. I thought the problem was the afm lifters being that there was a tick at highway speeds. I only had a tick at highway speeds. If I drove on the street I would never get the noise. As soon as I held a steady speed on the highway I would get what sounds like a lifter tick. The dod delete work was done by a Preformance shop. I do not think that dod was the problem. If I hold the throttle steady at 2000rpm while in park I can get the tick to come on. After I let the engine idle about 2-3 minutes the tick goes away. As soon as I hold the rpms back up it will come back and repeat the process. No loss of power while this is happening and no other sounds. Oil pressure is about 10-15 at idle and close to 40 while on highway. I would greatly appreciate any help.
  3. I’m at my wits end over this I’m not sure if it’s been discussed on here yet but I’m having a serious problem with my truck going into limp mode at random. I have a 2007 GMC Sierra, SLT, Z71 (newer body style) It runs fine for weeks, sometimes even months. Out of nowhere it’ll go into limp mode with these dash warnings: ”engine power reduced” ”traction control off” ”service traction control” ”service stabilitrack” Readings are: P2138 C0242 C0899 C0900 I replaced the engine due to a cam and lifter problem about 3 yrs ago. The truck started acting up about a month after the engine was replaced. The engine is still under warranty. -I’ve changed the gas pedal sensor. -I’ve changed the throttle body and throttle positioning sensor. -I’ve changed the electronic control module (ECM) -I’ve changed the electronic brake control module (EBCM) -I’ve even replaced the battery cables -I’ve added a new ground wire, thinking I had a bad ground somewhere. - I’ve checked and cleaned all connections into the throttle body, gas pedal, and all the plug ins I could see and get to. I had a guy tell me to look at the brake booster and possibly change that. It might be leaking or something. I’m not sure if that’s accurate advice and I haven’t done anything to the brake booster. Other than fooling with the brake booster, I’ve literally done everything I know to do except change the entire wiring harness!!! I don’t want to do that though. I love the truck and I don’t want to sell it but Im tired of putting money into it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m on the verge of pushing it off of a tall cliff! help! - James
  4. Hi, I've got a 2007 Silverado 1500, crew cab, LTZ, with AFM and 207,xxx miles on it. I was having an issue with my motor (I was hoping it was just a coil or plugs), and after the repair shop looked it over, they discovered all the spark plugs on one side of the engine were shot. Hoping it would still be an easy fix, they looked into it further to discover that there is no compression and it looks like my motor needs to be rebuilt or replaced (a somewhat common occurrence for this particular motor so it seems). My quote for replacing the engine with a Jasper engine is $6,500. It will come with a 3 year, 100,000 mile warranty. I've heard they're pretty solid engines. I "was" planning on turning it in around September/October and purchasing a new 2019. I figured around my area (lower Michigan) that I could get around $9,000. It has a new front bumper and fender flares color matched to the truck (to deal with rust issues), so besides the rust I stopped from spreading under the fender flares, the truck has no rust or other damage. Very clean inside, only issue is the crack in the dash (another common issue, I hear). It's not in immaculate condition, but I've taken excellent care of it the entire time I've owned it. Soo, I'm open to anyone's opinion. Is it worth putting a new motor in, or just try to sell it "as-is." I'm assuming I could get $3,000 for how it sits, but I could be WAY off on that. My thoughts: 1. Put a new motor in, drive for a year, still get $7-8K out of it? I don't know if the new motor would help with resale, or hurt? By that time, there should be incentives and deals on 2019, and I'm sure I can get one at least $7K lower than a a new one now. 2. Sell the truck, take the $3K (if I can even get that) and find a deal on a 2018...or similar $6,500 seems like a lot to me to put into an 11 year old vehicle. But I just don't know. I hadn't thought about any of this 3 days ago, but such is reality. Figured I'd try to read through whatever help you guys could give and weigh all my options. Appreciate any insight!
  5. 2007 Chev Silverado 2500HD Denali Mod

    From the album 2007 2500HD "Denali HD"

    Recent modifications/additions: Century Camper shell, electric steps, H2 wheels

    © Free Use

  6. Replacing Bose factory 6.5" subwoofer in the center consol with a JL audio 6w3v3. I have seen many people talk about doing this but have never actually seen anyone follow through. I also replaced my rear door speakers. Factory size is 4x6 and I put in 6x8. Made tempelate of speaker size and traced onto the truck door with sharpie. Then used tin snips to cut out the hole. It was super easy and there is nothing back there to get in the way. Then made a mounting ring out of MDF and a jig saw. Painted it black and put a foam sealer on it which pulled tight when I mounted the speaker. I did notice a better sound quality when I added the 6x8 over the 4x6. I swapped because I lost sound out of my back right speaker and thought why not throw a bigger speaker in there. I will be installing the JL 6w3v3 with the JL jx250 amp this week and I will post pictures and let anyone know how it turned out. Obviously it's not a 10 or 12 under the rear seat but I think it will add a much better sound overall. Not looking to wake the neighborhood. I have read many places it's is "sooo complicated" to get to the Bose sub in the center consol why bother with it. Not true at all. It took 25-30 min to get the entire console out and pull the sub.
  7. ​Hey there, guys and.. gals? I'm sure there are at least a few on here. So I've recently gone back to a truck. Sold my 2014 Evo two weeks ago, aimed directly at getting back into an early 2000's Chevy or GMC 1500. Originally, I only wanted to spend under 10k, but I found a truck I couldn't turn down. Came across a 2007 Silverado 1500 LT1 4x4 CCSB. I'll start by saying this thing is immaculate. It's a single owner, 60k miles, clean title with literally zero rust. The guy bought it brand new and immediately threw leather seat covers on it, treated the bed, and threw a soft tonneau cover on it. The truck came with brand new 2014 wheels with new tires. Looks like the guy really liked the style. I also received the original wheels with the truck. I'm looking for advice on things I should look out for, maybe some preventative maintenance tips, and anything else that comes to mind. I looked for a tips and tricks thread, but couldn't seem to find one. (If there is one, a link to it would be appreciated) I'm going to treat the undercarriage with some anti-rust coats to prevent any future issues. This is a NJ truck, so I think that's a must. I noticed the door speakers cutting in and out (which a buddy told me to look out for since that's supposedly an issue for the 07) - Does anyone know of a direct fix thread, or do I need to pull the door speakers out and test connections? Well, the truck came with a 60-day warranty, so I can take it to them and have them dive into the issue if needed. Glad to be here, and look forward to connecting with other like-minded folk.
  8. Having a problem with bothheadlights on my 2007 silverado 1500 it's a NBS. Its 4x4 with z71 package. One headlight went out first (passenger side). I replaced the bulb with no luck. Swapping bulbs from the other side to know I didn't just buy a bad one. I have checked the fuses and they don't seem bad. Both sides light up a test light. The socket that the headlight plugs into has no power when using a test light to check it. The other headlight has now also gone out. Any help would be much appreciated.
  9. So this has been annoying me for 3 years now. I bought my 2007 used from an area dealer. I had some service done to it and when it back i noticed a few things. Not only did their tech decide to help himself to my spare change stash but it appeared he went ahead and searched through everything. Well in his search he broke the latch to the lid of the jumpseat......not the top console lid but the actual seat itself that opens up to the under seat storage. Anyway, I have literally searched everywhere I cannot find the latch itself without replacing the entire lid which i do not want to do. Sidenote: the dealer wouldn't stand behind their work and replace the latch which rubbed me the wrong way and I won't be doing business there anymore. Luckily there are at least 5 other GM dealers within 50 miles so thats not a problem. Anyone know where to find just the latch by itself?
  10. Hi all, Im new here to the site as of today (9/01/16) and I just bought my new (to me) 2007 gmc sierra 1500 2wd. Ok so I have had this truck for roughly 2 months and I picked her up with only 47k miles! which is fantastic and all but I am having a really bad vibration only on the highway like clock work as soon as my speedometer hits 75+ it seems to me to be coming from the front but it is really hard to tell especially since it shakes my whole truck. everything in the front suspension seems to be really good and tight. so im lost as to what is causing this annoying problem. any help or info would be appreciated! also, every time I brake and or start off the line it clunks in the rear pretty bad. not every time but 80% of the time it does this clunking in the rear. now I know most of these trucks bind up when braking or taking off from the weight of the truck either going to the front or the rear while stopping or starting. which makes since honestly. but this clunk is way more noticeable and harsher. I think it is the slip yolk on the drive shaft that is slipping and I think it needs to be removed and heavy duty grease put on the yolk. if any of you guys are experiencing this issue as well please tell me how to get rid of it. Thanks a lot. and have a blessed day!
  11. So I'm posting this to inquire about mudflaps. I've been looking to find mudflaps for my 2007 GMC Sierra Classic, but I have yet to find any flaps that look decent and are for fitting. I want some heavy flaps due to the fact that my rockers panels and the area behind my rear tires are starting to rust out (which I'm working on fixing), and I was wondering if anyone's ever used/installed these? They look decently heavy and supposedly work with my truck, so I was wondering how difficult the install was. I'm also wondering about mudflaps for the front tires? Do I get form-fitting for the front and these for the back? Or does mis-matching front and rear mudflaps look too...I don't know....tacky? TL:DR - Need a decent set of mudflaps, does mis-matching mudflaps look ridiculous?
  12. Takata is a global airbag manufacturer who supplies parts to many automakers, including Honda, Toyota, Ford, Nissan, and General Motors. 7.8-million vehicles have been recalled so far for airbags that partially disintegrate, sending shrapnel flying when triggered. For comparison, General Motor produced over 6.5-million of the last generation pickups and SUVs from 2006 until 2013. It is unknown if the redesigned 2014+ models share similar versions of the potentially faulty airbag. GM-Trucks.com has contacted General Motors for clarification. General Motors said plans include forcing Takata to share the design of the airbag with its direct competitors to allow more production capacity. Stay with GM-Trucks.com for updates. As drivers of a 2011 GMC Sierra, we will be following this news closely. Source: Yahoo Finance
  13. By Zane Merva Executive Editor, GM-Trucks.com 12/20/2014 The answer is looking like "yes". General Motors is actively preparing "contingency plans" in case the automaker has to issue another round of recalls related to the Takata Airbag scandal. According to Reuters and Yahoo, a spokesman for the company acknowledged yesterday that the GMT-900 based Chevrolet Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, GMC Sierra, Yukon, and Cadillac Escalade would be among the next vehicles recalled if the issue widened. Takata is a global airbag manufacturer who supplies parts to many automakers, including Honda, Toyota, Ford, Nissan, and General Motors. 7.8-million 21-million vehicles have been recalled globally so far for airbags that partially disintegrate, sending shrapnel flying when triggered. For comparison, General Motor produced over 6.5-million of the last generation pickups and SUVs from 2006 until 2013. It is unknown if the redesigned 2014+ models share similar versions of the potentially faulty airbag. GM-Trucks.com has contacted General Motors for clarification. General Motors said plans include forcing Takata to share the design of the airbag with its direct competitors to allow more production capacity. Stay with GM-Trucks.com for updates. As drivers of a 2011 GMC Sierra, we will be following this news closely. Update: General Motor's representative Alan Adler tells us "There are no known air bag issues with the GMT900 full-size trucks. There is no recall planned. GM uses multiple air bag suppliers, sometimes more than one on a vehicle. All air bags are tested as components, in systems and finally on vehicles before production begins." Update 2: 12/23/14 - GM would not clarify any additional statement and would not explain why the Reuters/Yahoo article mentioned the GMT-900 trucks if there was no concern. Source: Yahoo Finance
  14. My truck is a 2007 Silverado 1500 work truck trim. Couple years back while installing new speakers I had to remove the c-clip to get the crank off. I used the towel/rag method and that thing went flying and I couldn't find it for the life of me. Anyways, I've been dealing with the crank constantly falling off whenever I hit a bump for a few years...but no more! I've finally had it. Thing is, I can't find the c-clip I need? I've bought packs from hardware stores and Auto shops but they are all too tight. I've looked through truck diagrams but I don't see the clip. How can I get my hands on one?
  15. OEM chrome door handles (not cheap covers) and mirror covers from a 2013 GMC Sierra. Fits 07-13 Silverado and Sierra. Mirror covers have all plastic clips and none are broken. Asking for $150. You can PM or email at [email protected]
  16. i recently bought a stock chevy radio with the aux jack and the usb in back and want to swap it with my stock am fm radio. i swaped them and the "locked" code popped up and i took it to the local dealer and had them reprogram it for me. the radio works and everything is functional but the volume doesn't go up all the way. the blinker sounds dont work along with the seatbelt dinger, what do i need to do?
  17. Just upgraded the a new 2014 Sierra, so these won't fit! They're in perfect condition!! Will fit 2007-2013 Extended cab trucks only! Brand new -- $199 plus shipping Asking $150 shipped to lower US! PM me or Call/Text 423-4OO-9626
  18. I am looking for help with my 2007 Gmc sierra 1500 Classic, the transmission had started slipping on me a few days ago, 1st gear works perfect then it gets high rpms and doesn't want to shift into 2nd I have to ease off the throttle with speed to slightly catch either 2nd or third, then even when I'm going 90 kms the rpm is at 3500.. There's slipping going on and it won't shift from 1st to 2nd.. Any Ideas what this could be ? Also my tranny fluid levels were good but the oil smelled burnt.. Thanks
  19. Does the 2007 Allison have a nsbu switch? I can't find any info past 2005 online.
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