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Showing results for tags '1500'.
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GM recalls 160,000 pickup trucks in Canada for fire risks, nothing announced in US yet As of right now there is a recall for all GM 1500's years 2014-2018 that have both a rear window defogger and a power sliding rear window. https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/gm-recall-pickup-trucks-canada-fire-risks/ That recall has not been expanded to the US. I Just got off the phone with GM and filed a request to have the recall expanded to the US. I would encourage everyone who this applies to in this forum to do the same. It takes about 5-10 min but could save us all a lot of hassle later. HAVE YOUR VIN READY Call GM @1 (866) 522-9559 Reference this recall number: Manufacturer Recall Number N192220470 (This is the recall number from GM in Canada) (reference: https://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur/7/VRDB-BDRV/search-recherche/detail.aspx?lang=eng&mk=0&md=0&fy=0&ty=9999&ft=&ls=0&sy=0&rn=2019325&cf=SearchResult&pg=50) They will tell you that the recall only applies in Canada and not to your VIN. Express to them that the recall needs to be expanded to the US since our vehicles are also affected. Please post here if you have called GM (just so we can keep track) Please also post if you have experienced this issue (smoke, glass breakage, etc) Affected components: electrical – rear window defroster on trucks equipped with the power sliding rear window. Affected vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2015-2019 Chevrolet Silverado HD 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado LD 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500 2015-2019 GMC Sierra HD 2014-2018 GMC Sierra LD It may be a good idea to sticky this topic.
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I have a 2008 Silverado 1500 LT with the 5.3 vortec and it needs a new engine. Is it possible to put a 2003 5.3 Vortec engine in this truck or not? -
Only joined to spread the word. Like most of you I've been frustrated with the horrible interior lighting without easy fix. I also wasn't willing to have holes drilled in my trim pieces, or lose any functionality of my switches or courtesy lights. If that's of interest to you, I'll try to include screenshot of item since links die, and hopefully enough pictures to get you through so you don't have to spend multiple hours testing circuits to figure it out. The good news is the rear dome lights are so easy to do. Take the rear dome assembly down and take it apart. It's only held up with clips and a small pry tool to get it apart. Remove the 2 fresnel lenses out and put it back together. That's it. Probably 3X the usable light from the rear domes with a nice even spread. The front assembly is quite a bit harder. I'm not going to explain how to remove the assembly and take it apart, there's plenty of videos online. For this mod I ordered some neutral white 3/4inch clearance lights from Tecniq. They have a real nice pattern to them and plenty bright. I needed a way to power them so I used some mosfet trigger modules. Probably 10 bucks in parts if I didn't over order for another projects. I needed some diodes to prevent feedback and keep the bcm safe. I had some on hand. DONT FORGET THE DIODES. I removed the fresnel lenses from the front as well. I took everything apart and with a Drexel 'gently' made the leds fit roughly in the same position as the factory holes. It doesn't take much. I had to trim a bit from the bulbs as well. There's a tiny spot on the pcb board that produces 4 volts on either side corresponding to the lights. If your not comfortable soldering, it's pretty small. Next I routed the wires from the led through the holes directly behind them. I did have to cut some of the rubber out, but be careful not to take too much. Once the pcb was back in, I ran the wires towards the rear and again used the Drexel to make room on the back piece for them to come out. Then I wired them to the mosfet modules. You might have to knock the tiny led off of the module. It's a tiny power draw but these module are meant for 5 volts and we're working with 4V. Mosfet module Requires Vin, Gin, Vout, Gout, trigger, and trigger ground. I place the diodes in the the Vout. Make sure the orientation is correct. Module power out to led. Pigtailed Gin to trigger ground. And made some quick disconnect leads for the power in. I connected to power and ground directly to the wiring harness via t-taps. I know people have said you can mess up the bcm that way, but considering the leds only draw 40 mA @12V each I wasn't worried about it. Connected ground to number 5 pin on the grey harness. I'll have to apologize, I don't remember which wire I connected in the harness for power. It was late and I was very frustrated. I initially connected to number 14 but I lost some functionality. There was another wire that hade 12v power at all times and I hooked it up there. I believe it was pin number 10. Anyways I hope this helps. I know gm dropped the ball on these truck for interior lighting. Mine are so bright now I have zero issues. Have full view and it's bright enough to see everything. The lights up front don't shine at my eyes, and they light up the floor. I'm not even going to do the floor lamps now! 10/10 upgrade! P.S. I'm going to throw some pictures of the interior up here so you can see the bightness. Don't judge, she's a work truck! Lol ANMBEST 10PCS DC 5V-36V 15A(Max 30A) 400W Dual High-Power MOSFET Trigger Switch Drive Module 0-20KHz PWM Adjustment Electronic Switch Control Board Motor Speed Control Lamp Brightness Control https://a.co/d/19L4oGi https://www.ebay.com/itm/292380373219
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This truck is a 2015 5.3L Fully Loaded SLT My goal is to build the ultimate work truck, prepared to deal with what I encounter daily, it's come a long way but I am always improving and modifying it Please feel free to reply to this thread with any questions, I'd love to help you out My signature picture is before the 1" lift, profile picture is after Attached is what the truck looked like the day I bought it, I have since done: Ranchhand replacement bumper Tow mirrors Full LED bulb swap Front light bar Toggled with high-beam stock Front ditch lights Toggled with high-beam stock Yukon gear shifter Rear spotlights with strobes 2" Leveling kit Front 1" lift Rear Monroe load shocks Fog lights with high beams Cargo lights with reverse lights Catch can Transmission pill flip Range AFM disabler Speed Turtle flasher module
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Hi my mother's truck has a issue with the transmission. One day it just stopped doing anything in gear and you can move the selector but when in gear it don't move forward or backward and the fluid is full and don't smell burnt. I figured it would of started slipping before just going out completely. Also what transmission is compatible with her truck. It's a Silverado 4x4 crew cab I believe it's the 5.3. The truck code is k10753. Any help will be greatly appreciated. -
I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight??? -
I have a 2022 Silverado 1500 four-wheel-drive. The dealer ordered the 2 inch lift kit they offer and I’m waiting for it to come in and have it installed. But I noticed that the kit doesn’t come with upper control arms. Is that going to be a problem? (***UPDATE*** ) so I had the factory lift gm offers installed. When I picked it up, it looked great but as soon as I went to drive it off the lot. I could tell something was wrong it felt completely different. I figured it was just a break in period. But even after a day or two, I was getting crazy bad vibration at low speeds. Took it back. They ended up putting one of the U-bolts on wrong (I have pictures if wanted) they fix that and told me the vibration was gone. I get my keys go to drive away vibrations right back. I turn right back around. this time they have a mechanic ride with me. He clearly hears an feels a vibration, says somethings wrong so we turned around and he takes it back in. Three hours later they bring my truck back they had to remove the back blocks said there was no taper to them and it was messing up drive line. I got it back and the vibration is still there. (Now annoyed that only the front is lifted and still vibrating). I have them take the whole lift kit off. Put it back to stock. (Now remind you my truck has been down and I’m missing work for 5 days at this point) And after that Whole ordeal, I was done with the truck since I couldn’t have it how I wanted it and decided to trade it in and they made me a good deal on a 2023 5.3 LT.z71 I know many have gotten this lift installed said it worked out for some reason it did not for me. I’m much happier with the new truck. -
2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT 5.3 Started having loss of EPS issues exactly replicating the recall, but the software has already been updated from the recall. Now I'm having a wide array of problems: Service Stabilitrac, park assist disabled, traction control turned itself back on, airbag dash light, random flashing CEL, radio screen going black and sometimes cutting audio. Measured battery voltage today, 12.5 off, 14.6 running, however the negative cable was a tiny bit loose. Tightened that up and now I'm going to buy a new battery as the current one is 4y and 4mo old. If this doesn't fix my issues what kind of electrical problems do I need to dig into? Thanks :) -
Hello all, My Sway bar was hitting my CV axle, as the title says. So I crawled under some trucks at the dealer to see what stock trucks are like and it turns out that the new TB/AT4's have longer end links then my 2020 TB. The new end link has a 3 inch rod vs the 1-3/4 inch OE part. The part number for the longer end link is P/N:85590925
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Hello, about 7 months ago I smoked my 6l80 transmission, removed it with the transfer case still attached last fall, before removing it I made the mistake of putting the transfer case (RPO code NQH) into neutral to aid with removing the rear driveshaft. Fast forward to about a month ago I finally had time to reinstall a new (rebuilt) transmission, upon reinstalling everything I noticed that my transfer case shift knob was not responsive and had no lights (other than on startup when it does a function check or whatever) I got a few wiring diagrams and checked over the whole system, replaced the transfer case actuator motor and the knob on the dash, still cannot get the POS to respond and do something. At a loss with this truck and contemplating scrapping it, it's had 4 motors, and 1 transmission in 126k miles, let alone over 30k in parts and labor. I recently got laid off and buying a fancy scan tool and/or having it sent to a shop is *NOT AN OPTION*. I desperately need advice and or assistance as to WTF I should do with this POS that has been nothing but problematic since day one. below I have sent all the PDF pages I have used to trace and track wiring schematics.
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I just picked up at 2021 Silverado. I lifted the front end with a jack to get an idea of how it would look leveled. After seeing the picture, I'm contemplating keeping the stock 17" wheels and putting 33" tires on it. Has anybody done this?
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I have a 2021 Sierra 1500 Elevation 4x4. I am trying to figure out what is the largest I can go with tires without any rubbing. I am planning on installing a level kit as well. I have found similar articles, but I’m having a hard time navigating my exact vehicle. I’d love to throw some 33s on it at least! Any help is appreciated!
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I am in the process of wiring in my dashcam to my 2008 Sierra 1500 SLT to only be on when the ignition is on. There are no ignition switch fuses in my drivers side fuse box so as I see it I have 2 options : 1). Use one of the ignition switch fuses on under hood fuse box. The ones I have found (according to the manual) are : - Transmission Controls - Airbag System - Misc, Cruise Control - Aux Climate Control - Engine Control Module Can I pick any of these to use as I am using a fuse tap? I was thinking Aux Climate Control. 2). Tap into the RAP relay used for the audio system. However I can't find the relay (not in the manual) and I'm not sure how to tap into this without cutting wires. Does anyone have any suggestions? I have included a photo of my (under hood) fuse box cover if that helps.
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While driving my 2014 Silverado, I never have a problem if I accelerate quickly. However, there has been skipping/sputtering when I coast or slowly accelerate. This is not a clicking, loud knocking sound like I see most describe on here... Anyone have any idea what it could be? Thanks in advance! If needed I can try and video the sound later on today.
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Hello all, I have been dealing with a loud squealing noise from the driver side rear wheel on my truck since it had roughly 2k miles on it. It only makes the noise after the truck has sat for a few hours and then goes away after a hundred feet or so of driving. I unfortunately haven’t had much help from the dealership, other than them tightening up the leaf spring U-Bolts. Any help would be appreciated -
Hello All, New to this site, just bought a new 2021 Silverado LT Trail Boss a few weeks ago. One of the first things I am doing to this truck is upgrading the few halogen bulbs that GM decided to keep on it. The Rear backup and license plate lights all went super smooth, no issue. But when I went to remove the front blinker bulb from the housing I was faced with a different configuration than what I've seen. The place where you would normally find the circular grip for twisting out the bulb has a small hex head there in place, and it does not look to actually come apart (Please see attached picture). I think that I might have a different blinker than what normally comes with this trim (and I think it may already be LED) but I am unable to find anything online that resembles or mentions this configuration. I am only able to find the typical bulb backing which does not match mine. Does anyone have insight to this or possibly know what kind of blinker I have? I have included a picture of the back of the blinker as well as the light housing itself as I think it too looks slightly different than others I have seen. Thanks in advance!
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I was just curious as to whether people ran spacers after they did their lifts. I have read that you need a 1.5" spacer on the rear after adding a 4.5" lift to compensate for the front track width being wider.
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I'm sure these types of questions are asked daily but I'm wondering if 2020 18" Trailboss wheels will fit my 2021 Custom that currently has the stock 20" wheels on it. Thanks! -
IMG_2627.MOV I have a Sierra 1500 with the 6.2L (107k miles) and 10-speed transmission. When I was driving the motor shut off and when I tried to restart the engine the starter would just crank but no fire. I towed it to a mechanic I’ve been seeing for a while. He hasn’t been able to get around to diagnosing the truck but he sent me a video of him trying to start it. The noises are very concerning; I first thought it was due to a failed fuel pump module but now I’m thinking it’s something a lot more expensive anybody have any ideas as to what this problem could be? -
Have a 2020 gmc denali 1500 with a 2” leveling kit. Looking to see what tire size I can run without rubbing. Or very minor trimming. Have a 20” rim
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Looking at putting a ranch hand on my 2022 LTZ, has anyone put one on the refresh 22-23 trucks that would have pictures? Can't find any google. -
So my problem started with my right rear door staying ajar, it would happen every now and then and then go away. When it would happen I'm unable to power the rear right window with both switches. Then it started with both rear doors staying ajar and loosing all power to the switches. Then it stayed like that. Recently I've done work on the truck causing me to unplug the battery. now The ajar light is gone but the door switch doesn't register when the both rear doors are open or closed. Not sure what's wrong but I checked each boot and it all seems good. What should I do next? -
I have a 2022 trail boss lt that has about 6100 mile on it now. Bought it brand new in may 2022 and it seems like the drivers seat leans to the left towards the door. Almost feels like Im gonna fall out of it and no matter how I adjust it it seems the same. Visually it looks like it sits level and is fine. Is it possible something is broken inside like the frame? I would assume the frame would have to be sturdy. Is there any place that sell a better bottom cushion? -
Does anyone have experience with belltech lift kits? I've seen plenty of positive reviews from their lowering kits. They've been in the suspension industry for a while, just not so much the trail or lift side. Long travel is the end goal, but a $700 coilover kit with a 5 yr warranty vs an extended strut sounds more functional. I'm considering the adjustable 3-4" lift coilovers, part #15203. -Helper spring -60mm damper body -35mm independent valves -20mm piston rod I've got a 2020 z71 with the 3.0 Duramax for those needing an image to work with. Still exploring UCA options. 35*12.5r17 will be the tire size. Probably going to order them next month.
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Hello everyone. I've recently purchased a 2020 Silverado 1500 from a dealership. I found out late in the sale that the truck was used as the dealerships "loaner" which didn't really bother me even though I know people beat up those vehicles. Anyway, I'm pretty in-tune to vehicle sounds and I had a couple of questions regarding noises I'm hearing from my vehicle. The first is a clunking noise and a physical jolt when I shift from Drive to Reverse. I have my foot on the brake and am on a flat surface. I notice it a lot after I've been driving for a while and go to back into my garage. I took the truck back to the dealership and they chalked it up to bad U-joints. They slapped 2 fresh sets on, but I've still go the issue. Any ideas what it may be? I don't feel like anything is going to fail, but I also don't like the sound and don't think it should be that way. I have another service appointment next week and I'd like to help them out with ideas considering they don't really seem to care. The second is a ticking noise coming from the undercarriage. I' got under the truck today and believe it's coming from the rear portion of the engine, but I'm not for certain as I've never been beneath the truck while it's been on a rack. The noise cannot be heard when standing at the front with the hood up, but I can hear it very noticeably when standing at the driver's door. I do not hear it as the engine is heating up, but that could be because every other component under the hood is loud as h*ll while the truck is heating up. Once the engine is approaching operating temp, it's very noticeable. As you can hear from the short video, it's every .5 to 1 second or so and is always present during idling. Again, may not be a big issue, but I hate hearing things on my vehicles that I can't attribute to something else. Thanks for reading my ramblings. I can try to post longer videos if anyone needs. Thanks in advance! IMG_8898_Trim_Trim (2).mp4 IMG_8910_Trim (2).mp4
