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Found 378 results

  1. 2017 sierra A/T crew cab I have the most annoying tick noise over bumps, coming from the b pillar behind my left ear and it is driving me brick house, I've pulled at the trim off put my hands on everything made sure everything is tight, stuff rags in between contact points, I've run out of ideas, anyone have an guidance for me, I'm a ex gm technician of 5 years , I know what I'm doing but of course my own truck baffles me..per usual any new bulletins or tsbs?
  2. I have a grant steering wheel assembly, but I need more insight on how to install. Watched a bunch of videos but couldn't find a good one for what I doing.
  3. Hello i just joined and i need help . I have a 2012 Silverado 1500 4x4 with a 3.5" level kit and im planning on doing a rc 3" body lift . With the body lift can i still use my spare tire ? And what will i loose? And if you guys have a similar setup with a 3" BL can you post some pictures! Thanks for the help!
  4. GM recalls 160,000 pickup trucks in Canada for fire risks, nothing announced in US yet As of right now there is a recall for all GM 1500's years 2014-2018 that have both a rear window defogger and a power sliding rear window. https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/gm-recall-pickup-trucks-canada-fire-risks/ That recall has not been expanded to the US. I Just got off the phone with GM and filed a request to have the recall expanded to the US. I would encourage everyone who this applies to in this forum to do the same. It takes about 5-10 min but could save us all a lot of hassle later. HAVE YOUR VIN READY Call GM @1 (866) 522-9559 Reference this recall number: Manufacturer Recall Number N192220470 (This is the recall number from GM in Canada) (reference: https://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur/7/VRDB-BDRV/search-recherche/detail.aspx?lang=eng&mk=0&md=0&fy=0&ty=9999&ft=&ls=0&sy=0&rn=2019325&cf=SearchResult&pg=50) They will tell you that the recall only applies in Canada and not to your VIN. Express to them that the recall needs to be expanded to the US since our vehicles are also affected. Please post here if you have called GM (just so we can keep track) Please also post if you have experienced this issue (smoke, glass breakage, etc) Affected components: electrical – rear window defroster on trucks equipped with the power sliding rear window. Affected vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2015-2019 Chevrolet Silverado HD 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado LD 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500 2015-2019 GMC Sierra HD 2014-2018 GMC Sierra LD It may be a good idea to sticky this topic.
  5. Hi everyone, So since my purchase of a 2016 Silverado 1500 in May the main problem I've had with the truck is its inconsistent ride quality. The truck is a WT with power windows and locks. Cloth seats. And vinyl floor. The truck only has 27000 miles, well kept and maintained. Used as a commuter truck to work, aswell as work on the side (Electrician). Truck was purchased with only 22000 miles on it. No issues other than leaking pinion seal which is in the process of being fixed. At first I thought it was the tires so I had them balanced, rotated, and had an alignment done. While that helped it didnt fix the issue at hand which is how hard this truck drives It's a very uncomfortable ride at all speeds. Even on freshly paved highways and roads it still drives rough. What defines "rough" is the hitting of minor bumps. It can be just an ever so slight crack in the road to minor pits. I've done some testing and drove another vehicle (An f-150) down those same roads and had no where near as much of a impact and hit as my own truck. Now it's not a major impact like hitting something that you really shouldnt. But it's very unsettling and jarring at times as you would be driving the same roads you have been for years in different vehicles, and when you least expect it feel a nice jolt in your back when you usually wouldnt. If you need more understanding, put a handful of change in the compartment under the AC controls and drive around. I was wondering if it has anything to do with the stock suspension that comes along with the truck. Should I try out new shocks? Is there anything else I should try? I have no clue what to do and where to start but driving 45 minutes to work with the truck makes my back hurt as much as after an 8 hour day of work. Thanks
  6. After being down nearly 6 months the Denali is almost finished. The shop based out of Hudson, NH “Granite State Dyno and Tune” has been incredible. Super professional with absolutely top notch craftsmanship. Here is the build. 2014 Sierra Denali 6.2L Block: GM 6.2L. Forged crankshaft Forged rods Diamond 10:7:1 Pistons. Precision Race Components ported Cylinder Heads w/ valve job PAC spring/ Valve Kit. Comp Cams rocker arms/trunion Texas Speed & Performance Stage 1 Camshaft +30% fuel lobe TSP AFM delete kit Lingenfelter ported 95mm throttle body Ported L86 intake manifold. All ARP bolts or studs. Fuel: GM ZR1 high volume fuel injectors GM ZR1 fuel pump Armageddon 465 LPH in tank fuel pump Snow Performance Stage 3 Meth Kit with controller and braided lines. Turbo: Borg Warner S480 T6 Turbo 1.32 AR billet 110/96mm. Turbo smart 50mm BOV Turbo Smart 60mm waste gate Pro Boost controller fully wrapped exhaust Cooling/Oil separators Mishimoto fully aluminum Radiator Mishimoto R-Line Intercooler 31x 12x 4” Mishimoto HD Trans Cooler 2X Mishimoto Black Aluminum catch cans. Mishimoto 180 degree thermostat. Transmission: Circle D pro 3 torque converter 2700 stall. I think that sums it up... I will post tuning videos and some driving as they come around.
  7. Hello, this will probably be a very strange post, but I really don't know where else to go for help. My older brother has gone missing in Northern California. This is not a joke in any way. Here is a link to the law enforcement posting on Facebook. His 2015 GMC Sierra was found on the side of the road a few dozen miles from his home. His truck has an Intellilink interface in it (I believe that's what it is, the big fancy touch screen that comes stock). He never paid for GPS services, but I am wondering if there is any way to pull off a history of where the truck has been driven. The cops won't do it because there is no evidence of a crime being committed so they don't have the legal backing to do such a thing (if that makes sense). Regardless, my brother has been missing for 5 days now and my family is really trying to find out what happened to my brother. We have his truck in our possession. Would anyone be able to help me pull off the navigation history? This might be a huge help in letting us see what happened the hours before he disappeared. Thank you for any help. I apologize if I'm violating forum rules of any kind.
  8. I'm sure this topic has been overplayed, but I have looked through many of the topics and still haven't had my question answered, so here goes. I have a 2014 CC Silverado with a Procharged 5.3 that has an Air Lift bag system with an onboard compressor. Clearly I have some use for this truck outside of mere daily driving. In fact, I tow a small fifth wheel on Florida's relatively flat roads (fully loaded @ 9k and 1,300 pin weight) about 7-8 times per year for local camping trips (less than 200 mi.). I have no complaints with the truck's performance in any way, but it is time to look at changing the brakes, and I would like to upgrade to a reasonably priced high-quality brake system geared towards a towing application. I have tentatively settled on a PowerStop Z36 4 wheel system and wonder if anyone has any experience with them who tows a "heavy" load such as I do. I appreciate any feedback, David
  9. Starting off I am sure there are threads that answer these questions but I had trouble finding answers, and it’s my first time lifting a truck so trying to be thorough. So I have my 2018 1500 Z71 CCSB that once my warranty runs out I plan to lift it, leaving stock till that day, I’ve been looking at BDS lifts and Zone, the 6” and 6.5” is the height I want to go with. Zone’s 6.5” kit from what I’ve learned is a maxed out 4.5” kit basically. BDS 6” has either the coil over package or the strut spacer package I believe, I have stamped steel control arms for UCA, LCA I can’t remember exactly and will check when I get home. My questions are based toward the BDS option as I do not want to use the zone unless I have to My questions are is it worth it to get the coil over system vs the kit without coil overs, because that’s almost 1700$ more? What kind of installation costs is it typically for a installation? Has anyone had issues since they installed their kit? if I go with the coil overs, should I do the base set of coilovers or the ones with DSC? Id like to have 4WP install the kit so I could have their warranty on the install along with the BDS lifetime warranty, but not sure if they would do the install (I haven’t called them to see about this yet) I’m going to use the custom offsets site to see what wheel/tire combos I can run but if y’all have pictures that would be awesome to see to get a ballpark
  10. Hello all, I was wondering if anyone can recommendations of companies to install cermaic coating in the Chicagoland area? I have heard of some companies doing it for around 2k but was wondering if anyone had any recommendations. Any help is appreciated!
  11. I've spent the last 30 minutes and I'm fed up with trying to figure this out. This morning I get up to change the window regulator in my truck (I'm no mechanic, just a diy guy). Finally get everything installed and dealing with the pain of popping pins back into clips and I realize the door knob/latch/whatever the f its called popped out and is laying on the ground instead of hanging in the actuator for it. I looked at the end and I assumed it did not snap off because the ends still look machined and uniformed. I tried wiggling it around in the actuator before giving up on getting that "feeling" that its secured. Put the door back on and the door locks of course but the knob moves slightly down (no more than 1 cm) but does not retract into the door. Any ideas? Wanna try to get my bearings straight on figuring it out before I go popping the door panel off again. Also if anyone has a link to the part for the clips on the raceway/trim underneath the power window/power lock control unit that would be great. Lost a couple of them and it doesn't want to sit right inside the door.
  12. I just bought a 2015 GMC Sierra Double Cab 2WD 5.3L and I'm trying to find a full headers back exhaust system. If it helps any to tell what i like, I like the sound of my dads F150 5.0L with long tube headers and mbrp exhaust. I like loud but not obnoxiously loud. I like a nice sound of a V8.
  13. Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com 1/15/18 Earlier today, Fiat-Chrysler introduced their new 2019 RAM 1500 Pickup. We have more on the all new RAM here, but one thing caught our eye and we wanted to talk about it right away. The 2019 RAM's optional 12-inch Uconnect infotainment system. We were all happy that Chevrolet upgraded the interface of the MyLink System for the 2019 Silverado. That said, the brand didn't upgrade the screen or make it any larger than the last generation. To be fair, 8-inches is right in line with the market as it sits today. Ford certainly didn't offer anything larger, so Chevy apparently didn't see the need to go bigger or better with MyLink for the next generation Silverado. That might not have been a great idea. The new (and highly optional) UConnect seems like it was plucked straight from a Tesla. In comparison, 2019 MyLink looks like it was pulled from a Step 2 Playset Manual. Take a look for yourself. 2019 RAM 12-inch UConnect vs 2019 Silverado MyLink 2019 RAM Uconnect 12 inch vs 8.4 inch 2019 RAM Uconnect 12 inch Interface Of course, we've yet to actually use this new 12-inch system but we've been impressed with RAM's smaller 8.4-inch screen and interface for some time. What do you think? Does the 2019 Silverado have enough with an 8-inch MyLink System or does the 2019 RAM blow it away?
  14. Thom Cannel: Article & Photos Zane Merva: Photos GM-Trucks.com June 24th, 2019 This could be the shortest Chevrolet truck review in history. If that's what you came for, you can stop reading right now. But if you're curious... Why is the 3.0L Duramax so awesome? Because unless you’re building a custom lifestyle truck or simply using it for basic tasks you’ll be no doubt upgrade to more powerful engine when you buy your next Silverado or Sierra. That means either the famous 6.2-liter V-8 gas engine or this all-new 3.0L Duramax Turbo-diesel 3.0-liter diesel with its 277 HP, 460 torques and 9,300 pound towing capacity. If your truck is a lifestyle statement—and we have zero problems with that—this may not apply to you. That is, unless you’re from Texas where a better engine is as necessary as church on Thursday, guns, and football. Our vote, as the upgrade cost is the same $2,495 as for the 6.2L gas engine, is the new 3.0-liter inline six-cylinder diesel. It has the same torque, better fuel economy (we expect) and even has a sweet engine exhaust sound. Chevrolet invited GM-Trucks to Bend, Oregon to test the 2020 Silverado and it’s new diesel engine. Don’t worry if you just bought a 2019 Silverado—there are no huge differences for 2020; the truck was only released a few months ago. So, for 2020 Chevy adds adaptive cruise control and the amazing 15-view camera technology that includes “invisible trailer” from the Heavy Duty segment. We covered that. For 2020 Chevrolet offers a diversity of engines. There are, in addition to the new diesel, the 310 horsepower / 348 lb-ft 2.7-liter DI turbocharged I-4 with an 8-speed transmission, and two legendary small block gas engines, the 5.3L and 6.2L. In Model Year 2020 the 5.3L makes 355 horsepower (265 kW) and 383 lb-ft of torque (519 Nm) coupled to an 8-speed transmission, the 6.2L is SAE-certified to deliver 420 HP (313 kW) and 460 lb-ft of torque (623 Nm). It is paired with GM’s 10-speed transmission, which couples perfectly with GM’s DFM cylinder deactivation system. Hey, you don’t think you can run on two cylinders with an ordinary transmission, do you? According to Chevrolet the new diesel motor will be available in LT, RST, LTZ and High Country trim levels. The 5.3L gas engine is standard in LTZ and High Country models and available on LT, RST and Trail Boss. The 6.2L gas gasser is available more trim levels for 2020. Both engines will be built at General Motors’ Tonawanda Engine Plant in Buffalo, New York.” Not mentioned is the carryover 4.3L engine aimed at fleet owners. We arrived in Oregon to 80°F heat and blue skies, then were fed and watered, and set off on different tasks. We can’t talk about the HD trucks and their massive towing capacity for a couple of days. We were offered an incredibly deep-dive into the new engine, and a mileage competition featuring the new 3.0-liter diesel engine to start, however. Winning a comp is cool, but not realistic when you have a limited time with a vehicle in the first place. That said, other journalists did take the time to compete and Sunday’s winning mileage was in the 34-36 mpg range and then blown away by Monday’s 46 mpg. That, friends, is some serious hypermiling! However we still do not have official EPA certified mileage. That’s “To Come”. If you haven’t read much about the 3.0, here’s a modestly deep dive into its guts. First, the whole engine is state-of-the-art, aluminum head and block with thin steel cylinder sleeves and seven main bearings for the crankshaft. Combustion processes were among the driving forces underpinning design theory, so the cylinder head is essentially flat and the bowl-shaped pistons have zero relief cuts for the valves. That was important for efficiency. Simulation, and single-cylinder engine studies showed that having very vertical valves would not only allow a simpler bowl shape in the pistons, but that very shape would allow inlet-generated swirl to be maximized at every point. Swirl is produced and governed by dual intake runners feeding each cylinder. Oh, the ceramic glow plugs gave GM the highest compression ratio consistent with power and emissions, as well as allowing ignition to -22°F without a block heater. FYI, most of the engine development and engineering, as well as primary calibration took place in Turin, Italy. That’s GM’s center of diesel excellence. To ensure a quiet engine, emissions that more than meet standards, and deliver fuel economy, GM finalized an injection pressure of 2,500 bar (36,500 psi) through solenoid injectors capable of up to ten injections per combustion cycle. Early injections are primarily used to build in-cylinder pressure smoothly to abate diesel clatter. Later injections can be used for power and to keep the catalyst working within specified temperatures (those injections, sometimes caused by a catalyst cooled by highway driving, do negatively affect fuel economy but maintain emissions specifications). There’s a single close-coupled VGT turbo, for now, which indicates a possibility for later development of greater power and torque. Packaging to the “chemical factory” is as tight as could be manufactured. What we really haven’t talked about is the decision for an I-6 engine, versus a V-type. Obviously, six cylinders are longer than three, or even four. This slightly under-square engine delivers two things that a V design does not: smoothness and less side force. A V-type engine necessarily produces some side thrust, which is one of the reasons that Ford’s new 3.0L is made of CGI or Compacted Graphite Iron. In contrast, by using a robust, deep skirt design, Chevrolet and other divisions have an all-aluminum block, saving weight. Some of the extra length is minimized by packaging chain driven shafts at the rear. If you’ve never driven, or better yet heard an inline six, they’re smooth, likely the smoothest engine you’ve driven and with a unique sound. Both delivered by six evenly spaced exhaust pulses. The last I-6 engine GM produced was the gasoline Atlas LL8/Vortec 4200 used in Chevy Trailblazer, GMC Envoy, Buick Rainier, Olds Bravada, Isuzu Ascender and Saab 9-7X. ) Note that Detroit Diesel has produced an inline-6 since 1980 that displaces 11-14L.) Before highway driving, we did a walk-around. The GM-exclusive Durabed is impressive, and hard-coated for scuff resistance. Chevrolet says it’s made up of several sections instead of 1-2 deep drawn pressings. This provides owners with more cargo volume. As Chevrolet (and GMC) will tell you, it’s made of several varieties of High Strength Steels, so they claim it’s more dent and penetration-resistant than Ford’s aluminum bed. Inside the bed are 12 fixed tie-down points and nine moveable points, which has been a big hit with owners. Plus there’s that available power up/down tailgate, a power outlet and task lighting. A somewhat unnoticed feature is relocating the bed lights to flank the CHMSL on the roof edge. A couple of other things that are important are the corner steps and bed steps. They’re made for size 13 steel-toed boots and hold up to 500 pounds. We then drove the truck on the highway and on two-lane roads. Our first impression was of the powerful engine sound, followed by impressive torque. Electric motor type torque. Smooth power available at the lowest of engine speeds. Engine noise isn’t intrusive but like the torque, off the line it lets you know it’s there. However, with an open hood you hardly know it’s a diesel, it is that quiet. Even a random enthusiast who had been researching the new 3.0L Duramax and stopped us at a boat launch had to ask if it was a Diesel. This is simply unlike the larger Duramax and any other light duty diesel on the market. Something we’ll get into in our Heavy Duty story is the reason there’s a 10-speed transmission. If you think about the power band of a diesel engine, here delivering all of its 460 lb-ft of torque at just 1,500 rpm and holding strong to about 4,000 rpm, that’s significantly different than the power band of a gas engine. Thus, the 10-speed maximizes power and fuel economy—and every automaker has to deliver fuel economy, low CO2 and clean emissions. We have much more to come. For instance, we need to see if tow ratings are realistic, if its EPA fuel economy beats Ford’s 30Highway/22City/25Combined and how well it lives up to the Find New Roads slogan in real world driving under every condition we can discover.
  15. So i just got a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado. Im brand new to this forum but need answers. I have a whine particularly noticeable in first gear from a stop that is a constant pitch and gets louder with rpm. I went and had my tranny serviced, the place said the pan looked good no excessive material on the pan or anything. But i just cant seem to shake this noise. It does it every single time. Also my headlights flicker when i apply the brakes. Also a very faint hum is heard in overdrive very faint. You have to listen to it. Notice it between 45-55mph other than that i love the truck but these 3 things are bothering me bad cause it is the first chevy ive owned. Any help? Please. 5.3 L V8 w/afm
  16. So I have recently purchased a Range AFM disabler for my 2017 Silverado 1500 E-assist because of the constant stopping and starting at stop lights, exhaust drone from V4, weird shifting from V4 to V8 and my transmission liking to jerk/shifting hard every so often. After installing the Range device, it has solved my transmission issues, disabled stopping and starting at stop lights, and has been keeping it in V8 mode 24/7! The only thing I have noticed is that when I am decelerating from a speed of around 50 MPH or more, the engine will have a fast repetitive backfiring popping sound until i either get back on the gas pedal or have reached a speed of 35 MPH. It seems to happen when i am decelerating slowly and not fast, starts to backfire when it starts to downshift at around 900-1100 RPMs I have a flowmaster Super40 cat-back dual 2.5 inch exhaust with the third "cat" still on. It used to not backfire when the AFM was active BUT when decelerating, it would switch back into V4 mode. is there a way to fix this? Is there too much freeflowing exhaust? Can this backfiring through the exhaust cause any damage if left unfixed? Thanks, -Hunter
  17. Good morning everyone, I recently purchased a 2018 GMC Sierra Crew Cab SLT All-Terrain package. I'm personally wanting to install a leveling kit and I believe I've selected one. I've read a lot about leveling kits for 2017-18 trucks and this seems like a great kit. However, there isn't many reviews on this product by ReadyLift. The appeal of this lift is the UCA replacements and the <2" height it allows. I'm wanting to go with 305/55/20 or 285/60/20 tires with my stock AT wheels and I want as much clearance possible. I found maybe 2-3 members on here with this lift and I'll quote them below. My question is, will this work with my All-Terrain package? In the description of the kit it states, "Will not work on Z71 packaged vehicles with factory Rancho® struts." Yet on ReadyLift's website, there is nothing supporting that statement. Does anyone have any information or review for this kit? Thanks!
  18. Hey guys, I'm having a real tough time with my 2013 chevrolet silverado 4.8L V8 the engine is an L20 Vortec. I'm getting all these nasty fault codes and they are intermittent and usually start acting up when I'm driving in the city. When the engine is warm and I stop in traffic, or hit a crawl speed. The truck normally kicks into "limp mode" and all these fault codes start up ex. P2544 ( regularly) P150C, P069E, and recently P0700. now there is a list of communication codes, but normally its U0073, U0100, and U0109. I've gone to a few auto shops and they kinda said god luck, The dealer had no idea what i was talking about, started with cleaning all my grounds, as well as my fuses, everything seems to be in order. My brother (who is a mechanic) seems to think my TCM is at fault and not working, but I'm hesitant to call that the problem because Im pretty sure its in my transmission which seems like a fairly big job. Everything else runs fine and there is no problems at all when the truck isn't acting up. Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm pretty desperate to fix this as I plan on taking it to Alaska in july
  19. Hello, I am new here and I am stuck scratching my head with an interesting problem. I might've gotten the engine out of time when I parked it to work on the motor a little bit. Am getting fuel, spark to all plugs and I assume good compression as I ran it last year and it ran fine, tried adjusting the distributor, but never can get it to a point where it would run on it's own, would fire, but not start up. And I've replaced the distributor in complete with the cap and ecm, coil, plugs, plug wires and of the sorts. I know it's out of time, have put it in top dead center many times and put distributor back in, and plug wires on the cap correct, and still nothing, I've replaced the whole throttle body, fuel pump/sending unit, fuel filter, and adjusted distributor with the computer unplugged and still nothing. I hope you guys can understand my frustration with this one lol, hope someone can give me a few pointers in some direction. Thanks!
  20. I’m looking into upgrading my wheels. I have 22 x 9 Chrome currently on my 2018 Sierra 1500 Denali trim. I’m interested in the Dub Push S109’s and am wondering if other owners might have purchased these before and what their experience has been thus far with them?
  21. I don't know much about vehicles, or forums at that. I know enough obviously to have looked up & changed out the shift column mechanism. Now for some reason when Im at slow speeds my brakes are wanting to lock up? Could this have something to do with something not being plugged back in right or? Im lost on this one.
  22. Thinking of switching out my 22x9 Carbon Edition rims for 2019 versions. Opinions? Issues? Concerns?
  23. I currently drive my 2015 silverado 1500 regularly for work which involves various construction projects and survey work. I am looking to install flashing orange construction lights on my truck. I'm not looking for anything magnetic that you just put on the roof because I don't want to scratch my paint. I'm looking for something that could possibly be mounted in the front grill or the back taillights. I know plug and play kits are kinda hard to come by for this but I have no experience wiring anything. Any help is appreciated if you could point me into the right direction or provide your own opinion. Thank you
  24. I was just curious if anyone had any recommendations or outlooks on leveling and bigger tires. I saw someone running a 2.5” level with 305/55/20 BF Goodrich KO2’s. Was thinking about heading down the same path. Hoping I can get a level with some 33’s with no trimming. Has anyone else done this setup or have any recommendations or pictures? Also how are the rides with a level? I have heard they get stiffer once leveled.
  25. I drive a ‘14 Silverado and recently put a centennial emblem on the tailgate but since the emblems do not fit the grill I left the gold. Does anyone know if they make a Centennial Edition overlay/ wrap?
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