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Found 422 results

  1. Currently have my 2020 Gmc sierra 1500 with a build date of 09/2019 at the dealer with 2kmiles on it. Battery was dead one morning. After jump starting had check engine light and brake antilock system issue sent to my email. Truck would not hold a charge after leaving it on for a good 30 min. Its been at the dealer for 3days now.
  2. So I recently purchased a 2020 GMC Sierra and I have the jump seat configuration Id like to switch to the jump seat to a center console and I was wondering has anyone done that on a 2019 or a 2020 GM truck already? I feel this is a do-able modification to my vehicle but Im looking to see what I would need to do. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Where can I get the best advise/information about a false theft/no start multi-module shut down on my 2017 Silverado 1500?
  4. We have a 2014 Chevy Silverado and when our lights automatically come on we have no right rear signal and it’s like the brake light is engaged. Signal works perfectly fine during the day when lights aren’t on. It’s currently in the shop but just called saying they are about 3 hours in and need more time which of course equals more money. Anyone else have this issue!?
  5. If you guys are looking for an alternative, Lasfit just came out with new floor liners that are really nice for 2019+ Crew Cabs with the under rear seat storage box. They are running a Father's Day special right now where you get $50 off the $149 price with free shipping using code FORDAD-2 at checkout, so you can get front and rear floor liners for $100 plus tax and they are great quality. (The back is one piece that goes all the way across) Here's a link to Lasfit's site: http://lddy.no/msyj
  6. So I would like some advice. I want to level my 2015 Silverado 1500 4x4 crew cab. I am just out of the factory warranty with 38K miles. I was looking at installing a RC 3/2 leveling kit and have been reading many forums talking about how bad these leveling kits are to the suspension. Not just the RC, but any leveling kit. The kit is the 3" spacer between strut and tower with 2" block on rear. Many of the forums are saying the front suspension will wear out within 10K miles of installing. So I wanted to start a thread and get some opinions on some experiences with these kits. Has anyone had issues with these type of kits? What am I to expect in 10K, 15K, 20K miles to change out due to excessive wear from these kits? I know I will need to do an alignment right after install, but how will the truck ride and wear on the tires with these kits? Are they as bad as I have been reading? I read one thread where someone had to spend $6K to completely replace their IFS suspension from this kit. Was this a one off situation or a very good possibility? I want to get ride of that nose down look and give the truck a much better looking stance for a 4x4 truck. So what other options are there to level or give a slight lift to my truck that will cause as little damage down the road as possible to the suspension? I understand there is always risk when altering a suspension, but there must be some other options that do little damage and still allow a lift or level of the truck. Someone mentioned a body lift, but that still leaves the nose down look of the body. Thoughts?
  7. Just wondering if theres much rubbing with 33s that are 11.5 wide.
  8. hey everyone, I know I'm probably out of luck on this, but I am wondering just how different the rear frame is between a 2014 1500 and 2500. I am looking at the Ultimate Air Ride kit for the back, but they only have it available for 2500 and 3500. I know the frame is taller, but haven't been able to find how much so. and if there is any difference in the axle tube size of the rear diff. I know there will definitely some modifications to the brackets required, but I'm trying to see if it is feasible to try to adapt their kit or if it isn't worth it. or if anyone knows of something similar, not like the Air Lift load leveling kits, for the 1500's. I love having my truck lifted, but it would be nice to make loading my bikes and toys easier as well as the load leveling with a trailer.
  9. Hi everybody, I have an electrical issue with my Silverado 2008, I need the manual. Other members shared this some years ago but now isn't in dropbox. I hope someone could share me the repair manual again. https://www.dropbox.com/s/rflvemxjpqfc4h4/Gmc_Sierra_Service_Manual_Repair_Manual_Fsm_2007-2009_Download.zip?dl=0
  10. Thom Cannel: Article & Photos Zane Merva: Photos GM-Trucks.com June 24th, 2019 This could be the shortest Chevrolet truck review in history. If that's what you came for, you can stop reading right now. But if you're curious... Why is the 3.0L Duramax so awesome? Because unless you’re building a custom lifestyle truck or simply using it for basic tasks you’ll be no doubt upgrade to more powerful engine when you buy your next Silverado or Sierra. That means either the famous 6.2-liter V-8 gas engine or this all-new 3.0L Duramax Turbo-diesel 3.0-liter diesel with its 277 HP, 460 torques and 9,300 pound towing capacity. If your truck is a lifestyle statement—and we have zero problems with that—this may not apply to you. That is, unless you’re from Texas where a better engine is as necessary as church on Thursday, guns, and football. Our vote, as the upgrade cost is the same $2,495 as for the 6.2L gas engine, is the new 3.0-liter inline six-cylinder diesel. It has the same torque, better fuel economy (we expect) and even has a sweet engine exhaust sound. Chevrolet invited GM-Trucks to Bend, Oregon to test the 2020 Silverado and it’s new diesel engine. Don’t worry if you just bought a 2019 Silverado—there are no huge differences for 2020; the truck was only released a few months ago. So, for 2020 Chevy adds adaptive cruise control and the amazing 15-view camera technology that includes “invisible trailer” from the Heavy Duty segment. We covered that. For 2020 Chevrolet offers a diversity of engines. There are, in addition to the new diesel, the 310 horsepower / 348 lb-ft 2.7-liter DI turbocharged I-4 with an 8-speed transmission, and two legendary small block gas engines, the 5.3L and 6.2L. In Model Year 2020 the 5.3L makes 355 horsepower (265 kW) and 383 lb-ft of torque (519 Nm) coupled to an 8-speed transmission, the 6.2L is SAE-certified to deliver 420 HP (313 kW) and 460 lb-ft of torque (623 Nm). It is paired with GM’s 10-speed transmission, which couples perfectly with GM’s DFM cylinder deactivation system. Hey, you don’t think you can run on two cylinders with an ordinary transmission, do you? According to Chevrolet the new diesel motor will be available in LT, RST, LTZ and High Country trim levels. The 5.3L gas engine is standard in LTZ and High Country models and available on LT, RST and Trail Boss. The 6.2L gas gasser is available more trim levels for 2020. Both engines will be built at General Motors’ Tonawanda Engine Plant in Buffalo, New York.” Not mentioned is the carryover 4.3L engine aimed at fleet owners. We arrived in Oregon to 80°F heat and blue skies, then were fed and watered, and set off on different tasks. We can’t talk about the HD trucks and their massive towing capacity for a couple of days. We were offered an incredibly deep-dive into the new engine, and a mileage competition featuring the new 3.0-liter diesel engine to start, however. Winning a comp is cool, but not realistic when you have a limited time with a vehicle in the first place. That said, other journalists did take the time to compete and Sunday’s winning mileage was in the 34-36 mpg range and then blown away by Monday’s 46 mpg. That, friends, is some serious hypermiling! However we still do not have official EPA certified mileage. That’s “To Come”. If you haven’t read much about the 3.0, here’s a modestly deep dive into its guts. First, the whole engine is state-of-the-art, aluminum head and block with thin steel cylinder sleeves and seven main bearings for the crankshaft. Combustion processes were among the driving forces underpinning design theory, so the cylinder head is essentially flat and the bowl-shaped pistons have zero relief cuts for the valves. That was important for efficiency. Simulation, and single-cylinder engine studies showed that having very vertical valves would not only allow a simpler bowl shape in the pistons, but that very shape would allow inlet-generated swirl to be maximized at every point. Swirl is produced and governed by dual intake runners feeding each cylinder. Oh, the ceramic glow plugs gave GM the highest compression ratio consistent with power and emissions, as well as allowing ignition to -22°F without a block heater. FYI, most of the engine development and engineering, as well as primary calibration took place in Turin, Italy. That’s GM’s center of diesel excellence. To ensure a quiet engine, emissions that more than meet standards, and deliver fuel economy, GM finalized an injection pressure of 2,500 bar (36,500 psi) through solenoid injectors capable of up to ten injections per combustion cycle. Early injections are primarily used to build in-cylinder pressure smoothly to abate diesel clatter. Later injections can be used for power and to keep the catalyst working within specified temperatures (those injections, sometimes caused by a catalyst cooled by highway driving, do negatively affect fuel economy but maintain emissions specifications). There’s a single close-coupled VGT turbo, for now, which indicates a possibility for later development of greater power and torque. Packaging to the “chemical factory” is as tight as could be manufactured. What we really haven’t talked about is the decision for an I-6 engine, versus a V-type. Obviously, six cylinders are longer than three, or even four. This slightly under-square engine delivers two things that a V design does not: smoothness and less side force. A V-type engine necessarily produces some side thrust, which is one of the reasons that Ford’s new 3.0L is made of CGI or Compacted Graphite Iron. In contrast, by using a robust, deep skirt design, Chevrolet and other divisions have an all-aluminum block, saving weight. Some of the extra length is minimized by packaging chain driven shafts at the rear. If you’ve never driven, or better yet heard an inline six, they’re smooth, likely the smoothest engine you’ve driven and with a unique sound. Both delivered by six evenly spaced exhaust pulses. The last I-6 engine GM produced was the gasoline Atlas LL8/Vortec 4200 used in Chevy Trailblazer, GMC Envoy, Buick Rainier, Olds Bravada, Isuzu Ascender and Saab 9-7X. ) Note that Detroit Diesel has produced an inline-6 since 1980 that displaces 11-14L.) Before highway driving, we did a walk-around. The GM-exclusive Durabed is impressive, and hard-coated for scuff resistance. Chevrolet says it’s made up of several sections instead of 1-2 deep drawn pressings. This provides owners with more cargo volume. As Chevrolet (and GMC) will tell you, it’s made of several varieties of High Strength Steels, so they claim it’s more dent and penetration-resistant than Ford’s aluminum bed. Inside the bed are 12 fixed tie-down points and nine moveable points, which has been a big hit with owners. Plus there’s that available power up/down tailgate, a power outlet and task lighting. A somewhat unnoticed feature is relocating the bed lights to flank the CHMSL on the roof edge. A couple of other things that are important are the corner steps and bed steps. They’re made for size 13 steel-toed boots and hold up to 500 pounds. We then drove the truck on the highway and on two-lane roads. Our first impression was of the powerful engine sound, followed by impressive torque. Electric motor type torque. Smooth power available at the lowest of engine speeds. Engine noise isn’t intrusive but like the torque, off the line it lets you know it’s there. However, with an open hood you hardly know it’s a diesel, it is that quiet. Even a random enthusiast who had been researching the new 3.0L Duramax and stopped us at a boat launch had to ask if it was a Diesel. This is simply unlike the larger Duramax and any other light duty diesel on the market. Something we’ll get into in our Heavy Duty story is the reason there’s a 10-speed transmission. If you think about the power band of a diesel engine, here delivering all of its 460 lb-ft of torque at just 1,500 rpm and holding strong to about 4,000 rpm, that’s significantly different than the power band of a gas engine. Thus, the 10-speed maximizes power and fuel economy—and every automaker has to deliver fuel economy, low CO2 and clean emissions. We have much more to come. For instance, we need to see if tow ratings are realistic, if its EPA fuel economy beats Ford’s 30Highway/22City/25Combined and how well it lives up to the Find New Roads slogan in real world driving under every condition we can discover.
  11. Hey guys, After many many hours of forum reading and trying to find a answer for a problem like mine I've finally given up and decided to just ask. I've got a 2001 Silverado 1500 LS 2wd with the 5.3L. We were driving down a back road the other day and to simply say that it was muddy would be a huge understatement. Had I not know better I wouldn't have believed it was an actual road and not a trail. The mud was so deep that it reached clay in spots and we basically snowplowed mud with the front bumper. After making it back to the highway we went to go accelerate only to be bounced around wildly and were unable to go much faster than 80km/h due to a random and sudden lack of 3rd gear and overdrive. Limped the truck home and did a transmission fluid and filter change the next day. Fluid was filthier than heck, dark dark brown in color sort of like Cola. After that now the truck sometimes finds 3rd but 4th is nowhere to be found and once you get over about 70km/h it shakes so hard it feels like the worst washboard despite doing our best to get all the mud out of the wheels. Reverse still works fine. Looked under the truck and there does appear to be a bent crossmember but the frame still looks fine and straight. Some backstory; Never had any transmission problems before this or signs of slipping. The tires on the truck are oversized, from a stock 245/75r16 to running 275/70r17. At present there are no rear brakes, had a bolt on the caliper come off one day and long story short ended up disconnecting them and pinching off the lines for the back brakes. We also have kids who like to play driving and occasionally jerk on the shifter, one day our toddler somehow manged to get the truck out of drive without hitting the brake and it started rolling, it didn't go very far before I stopped it but nevertheless was certainly surprising. So my question is; what could be causing this to happen? Is the transmission completely gone and if so why no warning signs? Could it be the 3/4 clutch pack, the shift cable, transmission mounts or something else? Any input would be appreciated!
  12. Has anyone taken a Custom Trail Boss and done the LT Trail Boss fog lights on it? I am looking for a plug and play kit if there is one out on the market. I'm trying not to source every single individual part from GM. I'm pretty sure I would have to go get the BCM reprogrammed if I'm not mistaken.
  13. Is anyone aware of what is required to install factory fog lights into a 2016 & up Base level Sierra 1500 that didn't have them from factory? Will any scrap of wiring be present? The switch is not there... but can one order a switch, the lights and slap it in? Can the BCM be flashed by a dealership if required? I bought an el cheapo that doesn't have fog lights and the blank inserts drive me bonkers already... so I WILL be filling them in with factory fog lights... it would just be nice to know if I can have them work like factory or not. Otherwise I'll wire them up like jobbers and have a jobber switch. Thanks
  14. Hey everyone - first post here and just bought a new-to-me 2014 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71 all stock. This is also my first truck so I'm definitely a newbie and if I'm asking some simple questions I apologize, but I couldn't find the answers I was looking for on other topics. Basically, what I'd like to do is level my pickup. I thought about doing maybe a small lift but I don't really want to fork out the money and I think the leveled Chevy looks just fine. Any recommendations for this? Seen people put on 2 or 2 1/2" level kits - difference between my wheel well heights is pretty much exactly 2 inches. The other thing that I'm having more difficulty making sense of is a wheel and tire combo. Currently, I've got P265/65/R18 on it. What I'd like to do is get a bit more rugged look while also getting more ground clearance for a bit of offroading, and hopefully not affecting fuel economy and ride quality too much, but I understand you gotta sacrifice somewhere. What I'm having trouble understanding is if I should get larger wheels or taller tires to achieve the ground clearance part. I've read that getting larger wheels can mess with your speedometer and such. Any advice on if I should stick with my 18's right now, and if I end up buying new wheels one day should I also stick with 18's then? If I went ahead and got my pickup leveled, which (or both) would help me get that better ground clearance? Increasing tires or wheels? What's the largest combo you'd recommend (with the level) that still prevents rubbing? Definitely want to get that rugged look but I haven't been able to determine which route to chase down, as the options seem limitless out there for what you can do. Could I just get bigger, more rugged, maybe wider tires to put on my stock 18's? Thanks in advance to anyone willing to give a newbie some advice.
  15. Looking for recommendations based ofrom personal experience I’m considering getting Fox coil over 2.0 or 2.5 also Rancho quick lift. I currently have bilstein 5100 shock all around with stock springs and struts and I’m not quite satisfied with the ride quality over pot holes and bumps in the road are quite noticeable. I’m looking the best possible ride on my 2014 Silverado LT even considering new tires currently running 265/65/18 please help out this is my everyday driver mainly on freeway but will take on dirt roads every so often
  16. Good morning everyone, I recently purchased a 2018 GMC Sierra Crew Cab SLT All-Terrain package. I'm personally wanting to install a leveling kit and I believe I've selected one. I've read a lot about leveling kits for 2017-18 trucks and this seems like a great kit. However, there isn't many reviews on this product by ReadyLift. The appeal of this lift is the UCA replacements and the <2" height it allows. I'm wanting to go with 305/55/20 or 285/60/20 tires with my stock AT wheels and I want as much clearance possible. I found maybe 2-3 members on here with this lift and I'll quote them below. My question is, will this work with my All-Terrain package? In the description of the kit it states, "Will not work on Z71 packaged vehicles with factory Rancho® struts." Yet on ReadyLift's website, there is nothing supporting that statement. Does anyone have any information or review for this kit? Thanks!
  17. Posting my a friend that just bought a 2020 Silverado 1500 custom. Can a power inverter be added to the bed and cab? The truck did not come with it.
  18. While driving my 2014 Silverado, I never have a problem if I accelerate quickly. However, there has been skipping/sputtering when I coast or slowly accelerate. This is not a clicking, loud knocking sound like I see most describe on here... Anyone have any idea what it could be? Thanks in advance! If needed I can try and video the sound later on today.
  19. I have a 99 tahoe and a 97 single cab 1500. Can I move the bed and cab from the 1500 to the tahoe chassis?
  20. I own a 04 chevy silverado 1500. The brakes are spongy ( I've bleed them throughly, new everything except booster and master). My work trucks brakes are great 06 Sierra 2500 hd dual piston calipers all the way around same pads as the ones in my chevy. The question is can I upgrade to a dual piston the rear? They currently have the wimpy single piston. If an upgrade is possible do I need to upgrade the Master cylinder to accommodate the extra volume? If so can I just order the 2500 hd master cylinder?
  21. Hello, I have a 2014 Silverado 1500. My license plate lights are not working I recently bought new bulbs and assumed they worked, but after checking out my truck the other night I realized they aren’t on, I cannot seem to find a fuze for these lights, should I buy bulbs first or check a fuze? And does any know where to find the fuze for these lights
  22. Hi all, my Sierra went into reduced power mode a few weeks ago and I replaced the accelerator pedal position sensor after reading P1125. The code went away immediately and all was well. Today, my car went back into limp mode. I took the tape off my APPS connector wires and they seem to be in fine condition, the guy must have just wanted to keep them bundled together. After unplugging my apps, I plugged it back in and it got out of limp mode and I was able to drive it for like 5 miles until it went back into REP. Same code, 1125. Again, I tried unplugging/plugging the connector back in and the code is gone. Any thoughts as to why it keeps going back to reduced power and goes away for a bit after unplugging and plugging the APPS back in?
  23. Just plasti dipped my badges on 2020 Silverado RST 1500. 5 coats of matte black and 1 coat of glossifier. Waited 15-20 min between coats. Super simple to do. Let me know if you have any questions. BTW the tailgate Chevrolet lettering is BD Trims domed letter inserts, black with red outline.
  24. As stated, I have an 05 1500 silverado 5.3 v8 4x4 4L60e. It's got a bunch of electrical issues, ie. Dome lights only stay on for maybe a second or 2 when I open my driver door with the truck on or off, speakers going in and out, gear indicator lights only work and come on in the evening when the automatic headlights come on, every couple thousand miles my service 4wd light comes on but my 4wd actually works... The problem I am most concerned about now is my front driver side brake. No lights are on on the dash. It is not releasing. I have put a new caliper, rotor, pads, wheel hub assembly, CV axle, wheel speed sensor... lots of stuff. My thought is that the issue is related to the abs system. My brake seems to release properly when I pull the abs fuse out. Brake fluid is fine. As this is a newer issue, my parts are all in good enough condition. Does anyone have any experience with this particular issue with the aforementioned symptoms? And does anyone have an idea how to fix said issue if it is electrical? I'm going to possibly try a new caliper tomorrow and re grease my slide bolts depending on what my scan tool finds.
  25. Can any one help me find this issue. On my 08 Silverado 1500 Vortec Max I can drive normally find no issues no lights etc. Sometimes though I can either be going over a small bump going around 10-20 mph and then it clunks and then goes into neutral. The 2 other ways it happens is when I make a turn and give it some gas to speed up it revs up and clunks and then goes into neutral and the 3rd way can be in 1st gear and then putting a decent amount of gas on it and then it does it again. It acts like its in neutral when its in drive and if I stop it just makes a bunch of noise and I can step on the gas and no movement.It sometimes will just go back into drive but other times I have to put it in reverse wait a second until it clunks back into drive and then its perfectly fine like nothing happened. The problem doesn't occur often but when it does it happens a few times more that day. I was thinking it might be a solenoid.
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