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Showing results for tags 'vortec'.
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I have a 2008 Silverado 1500 LT with the 5.3 vortec and it needs a new engine. Is it possible to put a 2003 5.3 Vortec engine in this truck or not? -
Hey yall! New member here, sorry for creating a thread so early on, but my warranty expiration is creeping up on me fast and I need to get this sorted- so here's my issue. I have a 2015 2500HD with the 6.0 and about 95,000mi, and for the past 6 months, I've been having this issue where It'd start pulling timing ( up to 15 degrees of KR) under moderate to heavy throttle, as soon as it hits 3000RPM. There is no audible knock, but 15 degrees of KR sounds very excessive. Higher octane fuel makes the issue better, and usually after long interstate drives (no heatsoak), it runs great, but generally, it's very bad. Towing a 32FT trailer full of band equipment up a mild hill, it struggles to get out of first gear, and slams into the next gear because the timing is so far retarded before the shift, that it screws with the shift timing. I have used various fuel system cleaners ( now trying Amsoil Pi, as I know its well proven ) but so far, none have made any difference. I want to check the fuel pressure, but I don't see a test port, and I can't get any OBD app to display fuel pressure. Here's what confuses me: Sometimes, under the same conditions, It'll run just fine and pull hard straight through 3000 RPM. The only thing I can find different between the times that it runs like a POS and times that it runs like its brand new, is that when it's running like crap, it shudders at idle- enough to be felt throughout the entire truck. It pulls the most timing at around 3000, and tapers down as the revs increase. I got it used, with about 76,000mi, so I'm not clear about its past. Back when it was running horribly I was considering that It might have been tuned by the previous owner, but lately, its been randomly running just fine. Its been fine for the past week or so, but I'm still very curious about what could be going on. I have TorquePRO recordings of the issue happening, which I may upload later if that would be of any help. I've been hoping for a CEL but of course- no pending or stored codes! Thank you all! Sorry for the length of the post!
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1996 GMC Sierra 7.4 C3500 strange engine problems.
sonicdude10 posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
New guy here with engine problems. All parts are stock. No modifications have been done to engine and engine management to our knowledge. With that said, here is what is going on. Truck is a 1996 GMC Sierra. Crew cab, long bed, C3500, non dually. Has 7.4 454 Vortec and 4l80e transmission. Driveline has 147,000 miles and engine has good compression. All cylinders read 120 to 140 PSI. What's going on is the engine refuses to run properly. First up is the MAF sensor. Had the engine light on the dash so I used our OBD2 scan reader on it. Got P0102 which is Mass Air Flow sensor low output. Replaced the sensor with a Bosch unit and cleared the code. Next engine start that same code came back. I checked all the wires and plugs that section of the harness goes through. It has a good run to the computer. No frays or breaks. I even reset all plugs thinking there might have been some resistance in the connectors. No dice. Code comes back every time I clear it. Any ideas? Next up is the really serious problem that prevents the engine from running properly when cold. Low fuel pressure. According to our gauge it only has 20 PSI max and leaks down as soon as the pump turns off. On the fuel system we have a new pump in tank, fresh filter, and new regulator. That was a pain to install as the top of the intake manifold had to come off. Still have the low pressure and leak down. We thought the injectors were leaky but the thing is lean at idle as we sprayed starting fluid in the intake tube and the idle evened out. When cold it doesn't want to idle at all but will even out at 650 to 750 RPM when warm. Any idea what is going on? We have no idea what type of pump is in the tank as the people who own the truck put it in before we were tasked with fixing it. Still have the stock one. We plan to pressure test it and if it can go up to at least 80 PSI we will just put it back in and see what happens. So, any ideas on what is going on? I can record videos if any of you want to see the engine and hear it running. If anyone can figure this out I would greatly appreciate it as this goes beyond my knowledge of fuel injection problems. -
Hi im rebuilding an 86 5.7l small block dumped the old heads (warped one) installed 2 Vortec heads , the motor that will see MARINE use, 48' house boat 3Bowee try hull. my q is what is the purpose of the VALLEY COVERS in the engine ? there was a very rusty cover held by 3 bolts that connected to a central oil delivery " tube", do I need it? why is the cover used in the first place? will its absence cause detrimental issues in the future? ps .aluminum intake manifold is new how do I make sure proper install I got rigid plastic intake gaskets new grade 8 bolts from local supplyer keep snaping at 25 foot/pd setting help!
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how does the fuel pressure regulator come off the fuel rail on a 1997 chevy vortec 7.4 MFI engine? We have the fuel rail out and the vacuum activated fuel pressure regulator appears to be attached directly to the fuel rail. There is not the normal clip holding it on that you would see on non-MFI engines (TBI). Its either pressed on, or somehow attached to the bracket which is attached to the rail. -
454 Vortec Tapping and Knocking
RW22 posted a topic in 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 Platform
I have a 1997 k2500 Suburban with the 7.4 vortec. It is a 290,000 mile engine and I was recently doing some work to it. I put new injectors, valve cover and upper intake gaskets, distributor, plugs, wires, and a fuel presssure regulator. This engine was fine before and the only reason I had done this work was because it was cranking for about 5-8 seconds before it would start. When I put everything back together, I got the timing as best as I could (I do not know how to properly time these newer engines) and started it. Immediately, the engine was shuttering and I could hear what sounded like a lifter tap. It was idling very rough and after about 4-5 min a louder knocking sound started up. I immediately cut the engine and checked the oil for metal, and there was none. I am simply baffled at this as I didn’t touch anything when I had the valve covers off. My only two ideas are this. 1) it is not timed right, and I need to figure out how, or 2) the old distributor had some wear on the gear, and possibly the cam has the same wear and isn’t working right with the new distributor. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. -
Hey guys and gals, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1997 chevy 1500 with 4.3 vortec 5 speed. 2WD... I have pulled the bad 5 speed out. I'm going to replace it with an automatic....I have access to a th350, a 700r4, and a 96 model 4L60e. THIS IS A SCRAP-HAULING TRUCK THAT ONLY IS USED LOCALLY...THATS IMPORTANT, because a lot of people are going to have opinions on the Why?s of this swap. All im looking for is a simple way to use one of these trannys in the truck. Let me preface this by saying that I AM NOT going the route of replacing pcms, tcms, or anything of the like, if I dont have to....so my first question is.... 1. Is there a way, using stock 5 speed wiring harness, to run wires to the 4L60e and make it work. Which means shifts correct AND, allows the engine to run with potentially improper VSS inputs and all that. I can wire, and I can read diagrams. I dont care at all if the computer causes engine lights, even if the dash is lit up like a xmas tree...its a rusted scrap hauler. I ALSO DONT CARE ABOUT DRIVESHAFT LENGTHS, CROSSMEMBERS, or all the other things that could be a problem..I've got a shop, I'll fix those. 2. If I use the 700r4, I know that it will bolt up and there wont be a problem with flex plate, torque converters, because my cousin has one in his 97, same truck exactly. He told me he had a hell of a time getting a tv cable bracket to work with his stock v6 vortec manifold though..no proper mounting holes for the bracket. But I know it can be done. Yes, all the harness and plugs are different on the 700r4, so same question as above...can it be wired using the stock 5 speed harness, and if not, I know how to simply put in a 4th gear swith to lock the convertor, that's no problem. Again though...is the engine going to run properly without any trans vss(or other) signals not received. As long as it runs properly I dont care about codes and engine lights(scrap hauler again). And ...3. I'm very tempted to put this old th350 in it....I'm pretty sure it will bolt up, fairly certain all I need is a vacuum run from manifold pressure...and I'll be good to go. Again, I have 50 driveshaft and about as many crossmembers so those things dont come into the equation. Same concern as before, above...WITH ABSOLUTELY NO 5 SPEED HARNESS TRANSMISSION WIRES HOOKED UP, WILL THE ENGINE STILL RUN??. I dont mind jumper wires or doing what it takes to keep the transmission plugs sending a happy signal to the computer...I just want everyone's opinion on the SIMPLEST way to get this truck to move, and allow the engine to start and run like normal. Having said all that, and since I used all the caps, and reiterated several times that it's just a scrap hauler rust bucket..I'll tell you why I've been soooooo diligent to get all the facts straight..its because I'm 52, I have read about a thousand forum sites and entries over the years and gotten a lot of great info from them, and I think they are great! But what I dont think is great, or very helpful to the person posting a question, is that a lot of guys want to ask questions like, "why would you want to do that? If it were me I'd go get me a new transmission or a rebuilt one, and put it right in with a so and so clutch, and a thousand dollar tcm...." you get the picture, right? I hope I'm not coming off as a smart-#[email protected] or anything, I just dont think those opinions ever help the person asking the question. You may have a lot more resources (monetary and availibilty) than most of us schlubs out there...and sometimes we just want to know the technical possibility of if the question we are asking is feasible...not whether you agree with it...the reason I say this is because I've seen most forum threads go off topic from 2 or 3 regulars joisting about who knows the most, and then the poor guy posting the question never gets a good answer. Face it, you've seen that happen too, right? So, have written a book report, whew!...I now leave it to you guys to help me if you can. I'm a really nice guy...I just wanted to be accurate about my problem, and hopefully derail the one-,upmanship before it begins. Thanks my new friends!! -
Hey guys and gals, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1997 chevy 1500 with 4.3 vortec 5 speed. 2WD... I have pulled the bad 5 speed out. I'm going to replace it with an automatic....I have access to a th350, a 700r4, and a 96 model 4L60e. THIS IS A SCRAP-HAULING TRUCK THAT ONLY IS USED LOCALLY...THATS IMPORTANT, because a lot of people are going to have opinions on the Why?s of this swap. All im looking for is a simple way to use one of these trannys in the truck. Let me preface this by saying that I AM NOT going the route of replacing pcms, tcms, or anything of the like, if I dont have to....so my first question is.... 1. Is there a way, using stock 5 speed wiring harness, to run wires to the 4L60e and make it work. Which means shifts correct AND, allows the engine to run with potentially improper VSS inputs and all that. I can wire, and I can read diagrams. I dont care at all if the computer causes engine lights, even if the dash is lit up like a xmas tree...its a rusted scrap hauler. I ALSO DONT CARE ABOUT DRIVESHAFT LENGTHS, CROSSMEMBERS, or all the other things that could be a problem..I've got a shop, I'll fix those. 2. If I use the 700r4, I know that it will bolt up and there wont be a problem with flex plate, torque converters, because my cousin has one in his 97, same truck exactly. He told me he had a hell of a time getting a tv cable bracket to work with his stock v6 vortec manifold though..no proper mounting holes for the bracket. But I know it can be done. Yes, all the harness and plugs are different on the 700r4, so same question as above...can it be wired using the stock 5 speed harness, and if not, I know how to simply put in a 4th gear swith to lock the convertor, that's no problem. Again though...is the engine going to run properly without any trans vss(or other) signals not received. As long as it runs properly I dont care about codes and engine lights(scrap hauler again). And ...3. I'm very tempted to put this old th350 in it....I'm pretty sure it will bolt up, fairly certain all I need is a vacuum run from manifold pressure...and I'll be good to go. Again, I have 50 driveshaft and about as many crossmembers so those things dont come into the equation. Same concern as before, above...WITH ABSOLUTELY NO 5 SPEED HARNESS TRANSMISSION WIRES HOOKED UP, WILL THE ENGINE STILL RUN??. I dont mind jumper wires or doing what it takes to keep the transmission plugs sending a happy signal to the computer...I just want everyone's opinion on the SIMPLEST way to get this truck to move, and allow the engine to start and run like normal. Having said all that, and since I used all the caps, and reiterated several times that it's just a scrap hauler rust bucket..I'll tell you why I've been soooooo diligent to get all the facts straight..its because I'm 52, I have read about a thousand forum sites and entries over the years and gotten a lot of great info from them, and I think they are great! But what I dont think is great, or very helpful to the person posting a question, is that a lot of guys want to ask questions like, "why would you want to do that? If it were me I'd go get me a new transmission or a rebuilt one, and put it right in with a so and so clutch, and a thousand dollar tcm...." you get the picture, right? I hope I'm not coming off as a smart-#[email protected] or anything, I just dont think those opinions ever help the person asking the question. You may have a lot more resources (monetary and availibilty) than most of us schlubs out there...and sometimes we just want to know the technical possibility of if the question we are asking is feasible...not whether you agree with it...the reason I say this is because I've seen most forum threads go off topic from 2 or 3 regulars joisting about who knows the most, and then the poor guy posting the question never gets a good answer. Face it, you've seen that happen too, right? So, have written a book report, whew!...I now leave it to you guys to help me if you can. I'm a really nice guy...I just wanted to be accurate about my problem, and hopefully derail the one-,upmanship before it begins. Thanks my new friends!!
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Im swapping a 4.3 out of a silverado 2003 into a 1996 silverado trans is 4l60 e. Out of a 1998 jimmy they changed transmission to ls style for. 2003 4.3. Do they sell adapters for this. Or a special torque converter. Can I just use the ls to 4l60e adapter with new bell housing if I swap trans to 2003 it moves everything back 3/4 of an inch do I have to modify drive shaft trans mount
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I will be searching the forums here shortly, but I am semi-stranded on a 1,750 mile road trip with 5 kids under 10, over 500 miles from both my origin and destination. I have a 2001 Suburban I bought with 260,000 miles on it. I'm now pushing 270,000 I made it to a hotel nearby a Chevrolet Dealer, but they don't open for service until Monday. I was cruising at freeway speeds and suddenly the truck engine died and began coasting to a stop. I put the truck in neutral, restarted it, and it fired up and popped back into drive. About 150-200 miles it started happening more frequently. When the engine loses power, the tachometer shows the engine speed dying out, so it is not a total loss of signal from whatever provides the signal to the tachometer. After dying out, the engine will fire back up and idle with minimal extra cranking. The engine starts up and idles well at these times, and I have had to idle it with the family in it and it runs the AC no problem at idle. I have not had the condition pop up at idle. Sometimes, the engine will recover itself and resume accellerating as we are coasting if I feather the pedal. I have an AutoEnginuity scanner and a decent array of tools that I travel with. MIL is not on. I have some history codes for: P0461: Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (I believe this code was never cleared from before I replaced the sending unit previously) P1172: Fuel Transfer pump Flow Insufficient - This one kind of makes me wonder. On the trip, due to having the kids in the car, I have refueled at various levels with the engine running for A/C. Alldata says this code will not set if P0461 is present. P1431: Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit performance. The only way I could see the secondary fuel pump effecting drivability, aside form usable fuel, is if the secondary pump failure has caused it to become an excessive current draw. When I bought the truck, the fuel gage was not working, which I traced back to the primary sending unit in the tank. At around 265K miles. I replaced the fuel pump and sending unit assembly at this time with a new AC Delco OEM replacement part. Since that replacement, I have made the same 3,500 round trip road trip without issue about 1 month ago. One difference this time is that the ambient temperature this time is considerably warmer outside, however the coolant and trans temp gages have been riding right at where they normally do. Prior to that last trip as well, I put AC Delco Irridium spark plugs gapped at .045", and a 180F thermostat in the truck. The only other issue that I had was that at one point the EGR became stuck open by a small piece of stray carbon that would cause the truck to not idle. When the stalling symptoms first surfaced on this trip, I put a new AC Delco fuel filter in the truck and replaced the primary fuel pump relay just to rule them out, I would find it odd that a fuel pump would fail at that juncture at 5K miles old, however I am planning to get down to AutoZone and purchase a fuel pressure gage just to check that out during the moments when the problems are being experienced. The old fuel filter didn't seem restricted with a blow-through test. I do know this truck has both a camshaft and crankshaft position sensor, and I have seen a lot of similar symptoms that relate to the failure of one or both of these. I think that's where I'm looking next if the fuel pressure checks out. Am I correct in assuming that the engine would throw a DTC if an ignition coil or coil group was intermittently failing? Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks! Steve 2001 Suburban 2500 8.1L 4x4, 270K Miles -
I am trying to install courtesy lights with the GMC logo on my 2008 Sierra but after getting the first one drilled I realized there is not a light in the reflector on the door. Can anyone provide the related diagram for the wiring within the door / does anyone know if any of the door lights are only activated when the door is opened so that I can tie into those wires? It's a crew cab so I will be attempting to install them on all four doors. TIA.
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I just bought a 2010 Silverado LTZ 4x4 last Thursday and a few days ago it started leaking oil, and now I noticed it smokes from the engine bay on startup. It's not a lot of smoke, but it smokes on startup and smells like something is burning and then a few seconds later it'll stop. I opened up my engine bay and it looks like it is coming from the passenger side exhaust manifold, maybe a worn exhaust gasket? I'm not sure. It is white smoke, and there is a little bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust as well. It's hardly noticeable from the exhaust, but when looking in the engine bay you can clearly see it. If anyone has any ideas what this could be please help me out. -
I am really interested in swapping out my 4.3 Vortec for a v8 in my 2003 Silverado 4x4 5speed manual. Any tips or advice and what is needed for this swap? I have read some posts about this but they all have different info on what is needed and difficulty etc.. thanks!
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I am looking for some help here with my truck. Current situation, bought the truck with a no start condition, Discovered Water in the fuel. Drained the lines and put fresh fuel in, started 6-7 times with bad idle then stalled. 8th time started right up drove it around for 30 mins with no codes and prefect idle. Left it idling and went for lunch. Stalled when I was away, could not get it to start. Starting fluid would only keep it going to a few seconds. Then I changed the fuel filter, It Started perfectly for 15 seconds then stalled. It only attempts to start when I leave it alone for a while. Vehicle Details 1998 C3500 DRW 5.7 Vortec 180,000 KM Good condition Repairs, Fuel Pump Fuel Filter No codes. Gift Certificate to the Person Who leads me in the right direction.
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I have an RX Speedworks catch can that i had installed on my 2016 Sierra. It attaches using the bolt for the brake fluid. Has the clean side separator that I used as well but not included in the pics but can provide more pics upon request. Will work on other vehicles. My price is obo shipped. TIA. https://www.rxspeedworks.com/product/gmc-sierra-oil-catch-can/
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Hello all! A few months ago I purchased a 2006 Silverado 2500 with the 6.0 Vortec engine. My coolant is slightly discolored and there seems to be a little scale inside the tank. I would like to backflush the system, but I am not entirely sure how on this truck. My Chiltons manual says to remove the thermostat and reinstall the housing by itself, then hook up a garden hose to the radiator and backflush. 2 chapters later, the same manual says that the thermostat is part of the housing and cannot be removed! Any advice?
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Hi guys, I have a 2003 Silverado 4x4 with a 4.8 and 3.73s and auto trans. My catalytic converters were very plugged up and I ended up cutting them open, removing all of the material inside, and welding them back together. The truck has run much better since doing this. The problem is, since doing this i have been getting about 13.8-14 mpg with it. This is driving the same route i had been getting 16-17mpg previously. I am thinking that this has something to do with the fact that i left the o2 sensors in place. I am looking for a relatively inexpensive fix/ improvement for this, because this is just a rusted out daily driver truck with 160k that I don't really want to put a ton of money into. I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with this before I tried a few of my ideas. Any advice would be appreciated. Also, i am aware that this is technically illegal, but there are no emissions tests in my state, so running no cats is not a huge issue for me. thanks
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Hello, I looked 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 that I was interested in purchasing with the 5.3L V8 has 174,000 miles. Truck runs rough at idle, rpms are fluctuating. Check engine light is on with codes P0300 and P0301. Can’t troubleshoot the problem. Coils, spark plugs, spark plug wires, new O2 sensors, new catalytic converters. Guy says that rockers all move so it isn’t Active Fuel Management lifters and he says 150 psi of compression across all 8 cylinders. Truck was at dealership, dealership says problem with cylinder numbers 1 and 8 the P0301 explains problem with cylinder 1 but why isn’t code P0308 being thrown? What else could be the problem?
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so I went in order of torque spec by doing 22 ft lbs on exhaust and intake valves of coarse on 2,4,6,and 8. I would torque intake rocker arms when I had exhaust valve just starting to open and exhaust valves when intake valves were just starting to close. this was done with the engine under the hood, wiring all in tact, ect, ect... Now... after doing this torque spec than firing the truck and ran rough as hell until I back off the bolts, than everything sound fine after that. I than proceeded to snug the bolts back up gently before putting the valve cover back up. No tick no nothing. test drove it about half a mile. loud as hell tick and misfire coming from cylinder two. where is the middle ground here because 22 ft lbs seems to be too much and getting it snugged up enough to where it sounds normal at idle doesn't seem to cut it either. Please I need help. -
I have done all I can now I'm going to turn to you guys. have a 350 Vortec in a 96 GMC. I bought this truck about 6 months ago with no problems the engine is a JEGS motor with roughly 17k on it. I got some non ethanol fuel from an 'unknown' gas station and started to have an awful miss at idle. ran injector cleaner through it for about a week nothing helped still soaked plugs 2, 4 , 6, 8, were my problem children. Broke down pulled injectors out and replaced them put cab rotor and plugs in while I was there. Guess what same problem! But this has brought my problem down to only cylinder number 4. Did a compression check every cylinder passed moved on to an intake gasket sprayed brake clean around everywhere there could be a leak and nothing. Now we are to the point that it only does this when I start it hot or cold 90% of the time If I drive it just about any distance this will mostly go away with me only noticing it because I am now looking for it. Plenty of spark and fuel that is all going out of the tail pipe. Also now my only code is an o2 sensor which just started I would assume from all of my hard earn money going out the tail pipe. Any help or ideas is much appreciated!
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Ive got a 2007 silverado classic with a 4.8l in it. I got afe cold air, gibson longtube headers, stock cats, dynoflow 3 inch cat back exhaust, and edge cts2 gas programmer. I pull a 4500 pound trailer at least once a month and need more power. I keep getting told to put a cam in to make more power but the truck has 250000km on it. Not dropping a 6.0l in it because people on kijiji are on crack I mean im running premium, changing synthetic oil every 5000km, babying this truck, so is a cam worth it? If so whats the best cam i can put in without changing valves and all that fun stuff? If i put one in a motor with so many miles on it am i risking blowing the motor or tranny? Thanks
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I have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71 with a stepside bed. I have been chasing for an answer for so long, I'm going crazy!!! Do I have to buy sexual fender flares for the stepside bed, or will fleetside bed fender flares fit? -
Hi, I was wondering if anyone any advise on purchasing the Edge Gas Evolution or the Bullydog GT Gas Platunim for fuel econ increase. When looking at reviews and stuff I've noticed that the bullydog has a higher increase in in MPG but I've been reading that you have to run at least 91 octane. What would be the best purchase here for both fuel econ and overall performance? Thanks!
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John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 6/5/2015 Doug Blake is the Tire Man. He is the owner/operator of Medfield Tire and Battery in the Metro West area of Massachusetts. There has been a tire shop at the location he owns since there were tires. Doug can help anyone who needs tires or batteries, but we found him because he is a hands-on guy. He will use hand tools to change your tires if your car is special, and many local car-nuts come to him for the extra service he provides. Like the owner of the classic Mercury ahead of me at the shop. Don’t let us give you the impression his shop is old-school. Only the service is. He has the most modern mounting and balancing equipment available. Doug’s personal ride is 2003 Chevy Silverado rocking a 6-liter V8 powering all four wheels. There is nobody that knows more about truck tires than Doug. So what does he run on his special Silverado? He chose the Michelin LTX M/S2 all-season performance tires. The Silverado SS came with 20-inch rims ready to accept 275/55 rubber. Doug has found that the Michelins offer great all-season traction, sharp handling, and can they handle the abuse of New England's terrible pavement. Doug has 110K on the truck and still loves it, having had no problems with it since he brought it home 12 years ago. If you have a sporty truck, or any truck you’re proud of, tell us what you think of Doug’s choice and what you run on your special ride in the comments below. -
I am at my wits end. I own a 1997 C1500 Silverado extended cab and I have just rolled past 210k miles. I wish to keep the truck since I cannot find the money to buy a new one so I have been repairing and replacing as necessary, which brings me to my issue. I have owned the truck for 3 years and bought it at 160k miles and at the time it had some issues with it in the engine as it didn't idle just right and it choked up on hard acceleration so I replaced all the usual and got my power back but the truck always had a bit of a stumble that never went away. I replaced nearly every part that deals with ignition and timing and got to the point this January that I had enough money to pay someone to rebuild an engine for me and pulled the original engine and dropped in the new one (rebuilt). now the fun part, the stumble issue showed up in the new engine as well. I have paid two different shops to diagnose and bother cannot find the issue in why it is misfire. The kicker, is all the misfires occur in just the front of the engine in cylinder 3 (the worst) and 2 and 4. The other cylinders do not misfire and the miss is visible at idle and can be felt at any throttle while driving. The parts from the old engine were transferred to the new engine normally I would have assumed the issue was in the spider injector but it passed leak down test flawlessly. One more issue is it would seem that the computer is trying to cut fuel and the truck is running slightly lean. I am currently considering that even though the EGR test passes it may be possible that there is something wrong with it opening too far and messing with the front cylinders. Any assistance anyone who has an idea would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
