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Found 29 results

  1. I will be searching the forums here shortly, but I am semi-stranded on a 1,750 mile road trip with 5 kids under 10, over 500 miles from both my origin and destination. I have a 2001 Suburban I bought with 260,000 miles on it. I'm now pushing 270,000 I made it to a hotel nearby a Chevrolet Dealer, but they don't open for service until Monday. I was cruising at freeway speeds and suddenly the truck engine died and began coasting to a stop. I put the truck in neutral, restarted it, and it fired up and popped back into drive. About 150-200 miles it started happening more frequently. When the engine loses power, the tachometer shows the engine speed dying out, so it is not a total loss of signal from whatever provides the signal to the tachometer. After dying out, the engine will fire back up and idle with minimal extra cranking. The engine starts up and idles well at these times, and I have had to idle it with the family in it and it runs the AC no problem at idle. I have not had the condition pop up at idle. Sometimes, the engine will recover itself and resume accellerating as we are coasting if I feather the pedal. I have an AutoEnginuity scanner and a decent array of tools that I travel with. MIL is not on. I have some history codes for: P0461: Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (I believe this code was never cleared from before I replaced the sending unit previously) P1172: Fuel Transfer pump Flow Insufficient - This one kind of makes me wonder. On the trip, due to having the kids in the car, I have refueled at various levels with the engine running for A/C. Alldata says this code will not set if P0461 is present. P1431: Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit performance. The only way I could see the secondary fuel pump effecting drivability, aside form usable fuel, is if the secondary pump failure has caused it to become an excessive current draw. When I bought the truck, the fuel gage was not working, which I traced back to the primary sending unit in the tank. At around 265K miles. I replaced the fuel pump and sending unit assembly at this time with a new AC Delco OEM replacement part. Since that replacement, I have made the same 3,500 round trip road trip without issue about 1 month ago. One difference this time is that the ambient temperature this time is considerably warmer outside, however the coolant and trans temp gages have been riding right at where they normally do. Prior to that last trip as well, I put AC Delco Irridium spark plugs gapped at .045", and a 180F thermostat in the truck. The only other issue that I had was that at one point the EGR became stuck open by a small piece of stray carbon that would cause the truck to not idle. When the stalling symptoms first surfaced on this trip, I put a new AC Delco fuel filter in the truck and replaced the primary fuel pump relay just to rule them out, I would find it odd that a fuel pump would fail at that juncture at 5K miles old, however I am planning to get down to AutoZone and purchase a fuel pressure gage just to check that out during the moments when the problems are being experienced. The old fuel filter didn't seem restricted with a blow-through test. I do know this truck has both a camshaft and crankshaft position sensor, and I have seen a lot of similar symptoms that relate to the failure of one or both of these. I think that's where I'm looking next if the fuel pressure checks out. Am I correct in assuming that the engine would throw a DTC if an ignition coil or coil group was intermittently failing? Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks! Steve 2001 Suburban 2500 8.1L 4x4, 270K Miles
  2. I am trying to install courtesy lights with the GMC logo on my 2008 Sierra but after getting the first one drilled I realized there is not a light in the reflector on the door. Can anyone provide the related diagram for the wiring within the door / does anyone know if any of the door lights are only activated when the door is opened so that I can tie into those wires? It's a crew cab so I will be attempting to install them on all four doors. TIA.
  3. I just bought a 2010 Silverado LTZ 4x4 last Thursday and a few days ago it started leaking oil, and now I noticed it smokes from the engine bay on startup. It's not a lot of smoke, but it smokes on startup and smells like something is burning and then a few seconds later it'll stop. I opened up my engine bay and it looks like it is coming from the passenger side exhaust manifold, maybe a worn exhaust gasket? I'm not sure. It is white smoke, and there is a little bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust as well. It's hardly noticeable from the exhaust, but when looking in the engine bay you can clearly see it. If anyone has any ideas what this could be please help me out.
  4. I have a 1997 k2500 Suburban with the 7.4 vortec. It is a 290,000 mile engine and I was recently doing some work to it. I put new injectors, valve cover and upper intake gaskets, distributor, plugs, wires, and a fuel presssure regulator. This engine was fine before and the only reason I had done this work was because it was cranking for about 5-8 seconds before it would start. When I put everything back together, I got the timing as best as I could (I do not know how to properly time these newer engines) and started it. Immediately, the engine was shuttering and I could hear what sounded like a lifter tap. It was idling very rough and after about 4-5 min a louder knocking sound started up. I immediately cut the engine and checked the oil for metal, and there was none. I am simply baffled at this as I didn’t touch anything when I had the valve covers off. My only two ideas are this. 1) it is not timed right, and I need to figure out how, or 2) the old distributor had some wear on the gear, and possibly the cam has the same wear and isn’t working right with the new distributor. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  5. I am really interested in swapping out my 4.3 Vortec for a v8 in my 2003 Silverado 4x4 5speed manual. Any tips or advice and what is needed for this swap? I have read some posts about this but they all have different info on what is needed and difficulty etc.. thanks!
  6. I am looking for some help here with my truck. Current situation, bought the truck with a no start condition, Discovered Water in the fuel. Drained the lines and put fresh fuel in, started 6-7 times with bad idle then stalled. 8th time started right up drove it around for 30 mins with no codes and prefect idle. Left it idling and went for lunch. Stalled when I was away, could not get it to start. Starting fluid would only keep it going to a few seconds. Then I changed the fuel filter, It Started perfectly for 15 seconds then stalled. It only attempts to start when I leave it alone for a while. Vehicle Details 1998 C3500 DRW 5.7 Vortec 180,000 KM Good condition Repairs, Fuel Pump Fuel Filter No codes. Gift Certificate to the Person Who leads me in the right direction.
  7. I have an RX Speedworks catch can that i had installed on my 2016 Sierra. It attaches using the bolt for the brake fluid. Has the clean side separator that I used as well but not included in the pics but can provide more pics upon request. Will work on other vehicles. My price is obo shipped. TIA. https://www.rxspeedworks.com/product/gmc-sierra-oil-catch-can/
  8. Hello all! A few months ago I purchased a 2006 Silverado 2500 with the 6.0 Vortec engine. My coolant is slightly discolored and there seems to be a little scale inside the tank. I would like to backflush the system, but I am not entirely sure how on this truck. My Chiltons manual says to remove the thermostat and reinstall the housing by itself, then hook up a garden hose to the radiator and backflush. 2 chapters later, the same manual says that the thermostat is part of the housing and cannot be removed! Any advice?
  9. Hey yall! New member here, sorry for creating a thread so early on, but my warranty expiration is creeping up on me fast and I need to get this sorted- so here's my issue. I have a 2015 2500HD with the 6.0 and about 95,000mi, and for the past 6 months, I've been having this issue where It'd start pulling timing ( up to 15 degrees of KR) under moderate to heavy throttle, as soon as it hits 3000RPM. There is no audible knock, but 15 degrees of KR sounds very excessive. Higher octane fuel makes the issue better, and usually after long interstate drives (no heatsoak), it runs great, but generally, it's very bad. Towing a 32FT trailer full of band equipment up a mild hill, it struggles to get out of first gear, and slams into the next gear because the timing is so far retarded before the shift, that it screws with the shift timing. I have used various fuel system cleaners ( now trying Amsoil Pi, as I know its well proven ) but so far, none have made any difference. I want to check the fuel pressure, but I don't see a test port, and I can't get any OBD app to display fuel pressure. Here's what confuses me: Sometimes, under the same conditions, It'll run just fine and pull hard straight through 3000 RPM. The only thing I can find different between the times that it runs like a POS and times that it runs like its brand new, is that when it's running like crap, it shudders at idle- enough to be felt throughout the entire truck. It pulls the most timing at around 3000, and tapers down as the revs increase. I got it used, with about 76,000mi, so I'm not clear about its past. Back when it was running horribly I was considering that It might have been tuned by the previous owner, but lately, its been randomly running just fine. Its been fine for the past week or so, but I'm still very curious about what could be going on. I have TorquePRO recordings of the issue happening, which I may upload later if that would be of any help. I've been hoping for a CEL but of course- no pending or stored codes! Thank you all! Sorry for the length of the post!
  10. Hi guys, I have a 2003 Silverado 4x4 with a 4.8 and 3.73s and auto trans. My catalytic converters were very plugged up and I ended up cutting them open, removing all of the material inside, and welding them back together. The truck has run much better since doing this. The problem is, since doing this i have been getting about 13.8-14 mpg with it. This is driving the same route i had been getting 16-17mpg previously. I am thinking that this has something to do with the fact that i left the o2 sensors in place. I am looking for a relatively inexpensive fix/ improvement for this, because this is just a rusted out daily driver truck with 160k that I don't really want to put a ton of money into. I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with this before I tried a few of my ideas. Any advice would be appreciated. Also, i am aware that this is technically illegal, but there are no emissions tests in my state, so running no cats is not a huge issue for me. thanks
  11. Hello, I looked 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 that I was interested in purchasing with the 5.3L V8 has 174,000 miles. Truck runs rough at idle, rpms are fluctuating. Check engine light is on with codes P0300 and P0301. Can’t troubleshoot the problem. Coils, spark plugs, spark plug wires, new O2 sensors, new catalytic converters. Guy says that rockers all move so it isn’t Active Fuel Management lifters and he says 150 psi of compression across all 8 cylinders. Truck was at dealership, dealership says problem with cylinder numbers 1 and 8 the P0301 explains problem with cylinder 1 but why isn’t code P0308 being thrown? What else could be the problem?
  12. so I went in order of torque spec by doing 22 ft lbs on exhaust and intake valves of coarse on 2,4,6,and 8. I would torque intake rocker arms when I had exhaust valve just starting to open and exhaust valves when intake valves were just starting to close. this was done with the engine under the hood, wiring all in tact, ect, ect... Now... after doing this torque spec than firing the truck and ran rough as hell until I back off the bolts, than everything sound fine after that. I than proceeded to snug the bolts back up gently before putting the valve cover back up. No tick no nothing. test drove it about half a mile. loud as hell tick and misfire coming from cylinder two. where is the middle ground here because 22 ft lbs seems to be too much and getting it snugged up enough to where it sounds normal at idle doesn't seem to cut it either. Please I need help.
  13. I have done all I can now I'm going to turn to you guys. have a 350 Vortec in a 96 GMC. I bought this truck about 6 months ago with no problems the engine is a JEGS motor with roughly 17k on it. I got some non ethanol fuel from an 'unknown' gas station and started to have an awful miss at idle. ran injector cleaner through it for about a week nothing helped still soaked plugs 2, 4 , 6, 8, were my problem children. Broke down pulled injectors out and replaced them put cab rotor and plugs in while I was there. Guess what same problem! But this has brought my problem down to only cylinder number 4. Did a compression check every cylinder passed moved on to an intake gasket sprayed brake clean around everywhere there could be a leak and nothing. Now we are to the point that it only does this when I start it hot or cold 90% of the time If I drive it just about any distance this will mostly go away with me only noticing it because I am now looking for it. Plenty of spark and fuel that is all going out of the tail pipe. Also now my only code is an o2 sensor which just started I would assume from all of my hard earn money going out the tail pipe. Any help or ideas is much appreciated!
  14. Ive got a 2007 silverado classic with a 4.8l in it. I got afe cold air, gibson longtube headers, stock cats, dynoflow 3 inch cat back exhaust, and edge cts2 gas programmer. I pull a 4500 pound trailer at least once a month and need more power. I keep getting told to put a cam in to make more power but the truck has 250000km on it. Not dropping a 6.0l in it because people on kijiji are on crack I mean im running premium, changing synthetic oil every 5000km, babying this truck, so is a cam worth it? If so whats the best cam i can put in without changing valves and all that fun stuff? If i put one in a motor with so many miles on it am i risking blowing the motor or tranny? Thanks
  15. I have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71 with a stepside bed. I have been chasing for an answer for so long, I'm going crazy!!! Do I have to buy sexual fender flares for the stepside bed, or will fleetside bed fender flares fit?
  16. Hi, I was wondering if anyone any advise on purchasing the Edge Gas Evolution or the Bullydog GT Gas Platunim for fuel econ increase. When looking at reviews and stuff I've noticed that the bullydog has a higher increase in in MPG but I've been reading that you have to run at least 91 octane. What would be the best purchase here for both fuel econ and overall performance? Thanks!
  17. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 6/5/2015 Doug Blake is the Tire Man. He is the owner/operator of Medfield Tire and Battery in the Metro West area of Massachusetts. There has been a tire shop at the location he owns since there were tires. Doug can help anyone who needs tires or batteries, but we found him because he is a hands-on guy. He will use hand tools to change your tires if your car is special, and many local car-nuts come to him for the extra service he provides. Like the owner of the classic Mercury ahead of me at the shop. Don’t let us give you the impression his shop is old-school. Only the service is. He has the most modern mounting and balancing equipment available. Doug’s personal ride is 2003 Chevy Silverado rocking a 6-liter V8 powering all four wheels. There is nobody that knows more about truck tires than Doug. So what does he run on his special Silverado? He chose the Michelin LTX M/S2 all-season performance tires. The Silverado SS came with 20-inch rims ready to accept 275/55 rubber. Doug has found that the Michelins offer great all-season traction, sharp handling, and can they handle the abuse of New England's terrible pavement. Doug has 110K on the truck and still loves it, having had no problems with it since he brought it home 12 years ago. If you have a sporty truck, or any truck you’re proud of, tell us what you think of Doug’s choice and what you run on your special ride in the comments below.
  18. I am at my wits end. I own a 1997 C1500 Silverado extended cab and I have just rolled past 210k miles. I wish to keep the truck since I cannot find the money to buy a new one so I have been repairing and replacing as necessary, which brings me to my issue. I have owned the truck for 3 years and bought it at 160k miles and at the time it had some issues with it in the engine as it didn't idle just right and it choked up on hard acceleration so I replaced all the usual and got my power back but the truck always had a bit of a stumble that never went away. I replaced nearly every part that deals with ignition and timing and got to the point this January that I had enough money to pay someone to rebuild an engine for me and pulled the original engine and dropped in the new one (rebuilt). now the fun part, the stumble issue showed up in the new engine as well. I have paid two different shops to diagnose and bother cannot find the issue in why it is misfire. The kicker, is all the misfires occur in just the front of the engine in cylinder 3 (the worst) and 2 and 4. The other cylinders do not misfire and the miss is visible at idle and can be felt at any throttle while driving. The parts from the old engine were transferred to the new engine normally I would have assumed the issue was in the spider injector but it passed leak down test flawlessly. One more issue is it would seem that the computer is trying to cut fuel and the truck is running slightly lean. I am currently considering that even though the EGR test passes it may be possible that there is something wrong with it opening too far and messing with the front cylinders. Any assistance anyone who has an idea would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
  19. I have a Silverado 6.0 and in the morning when it is cold the heat takes along time to warm up. If I turn it up and put the blower on high the motor takes along time to warm up to operating temperature. So I have to shut the heat off let the motor warm up and then turn the heat on. Any suggestions on what to do so I don't freeze to death driving to school and work?
  20. Well, awhile back I picked up what I was hoping would be a good deal. Craigslist ad for a 1997 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4, regular cab long box, has 180,000 miles and the listing said body and interior in great shape, would trust driving the truck to Texas and back, yada yada. So I made the 200 mile trip to pick it up, they were asking 1800$ and when I got there, rockers were rusted out, cab corners gone, windshield wiper motor fried, blower resistor bad so only 1 setting works, door hinges shot, trucks misfiring, low coolant, oil blacker then sin, starter cranks slow, broken mirrors on both sides, list goes on. Talked her down to 1400$, and somehow managed to make it back, of course I had to drive through a blizzard on the way back. Overdrive started shuddering extremely bad in lockup so had to throw it in 3rd gear the rest of the way. Now so far, I've replaced the injectors with the MPFI spider, new intake gaskets, new plugs (she had the wrong ones in it), new distributor, new cap & rotor, cleaned a shit ton of sludge out of the intake valley, new pulleys and new serpentine. Engine has a tick that is sometimes loud, sometimes quiet, on the driver side bank. Usually goes away once truck warms up. Its there at all RPMs, doesn't get louder or quieter getting on the gas, so guessing its a valve? Dumped a quart of ATF in, drove it some and changed the oil. Fresh oil now with a quart of Marvel in there, definitely an improvement. Oil pressure is 30-40 at idle. I still have a random misfire, not throwing any codes. And when I say random, its only once every 3-5 seconds that I will feel the misfire, not in any given pattern. Thinking plug wires? Haven't changed those yet, but figured I would see what others recommend. I was hoping the shuddering at 45-60 during converter lock up, was a misfire or something. Feels like damn rumble strips. Hoping I don't have to get the whole tranny rebuilt. Paid 1400$ for the truck, and put about 1400$ into it so far. Still needs a lot of things.
  21. Of course my first post would be a trouble shooting question right. So ive got a 97 5.7 vortec, new starter, alternator, fuel pump and filter. a while back i started having issues getting my truck to start if the engine was warm and i had turned it off. usually quick trips to the store were ok but as soon as my engine gets to temperature it wont start. ideas of where to start looking.
  22. New guy here with engine problems. All parts are stock. No modifications have been done to engine and engine management to our knowledge. With that said, here is what is going on. Truck is a 1996 GMC Sierra. Crew cab, long bed, C3500, non dually. Has 7.4 454 Vortec and 4l80e transmission. Driveline has 147,000 miles and engine has good compression. All cylinders read 120 to 140 PSI. What's going on is the engine refuses to run properly. First up is the MAF sensor. Had the engine light on the dash so I used our OBD2 scan reader on it. Got P0102 which is Mass Air Flow sensor low output. Replaced the sensor with a Bosch unit and cleared the code. Next engine start that same code came back. I checked all the wires and plugs that section of the harness goes through. It has a good run to the computer. No frays or breaks. I even reset all plugs thinking there might have been some resistance in the connectors. No dice. Code comes back every time I clear it. Any ideas? Next up is the really serious problem that prevents the engine from running properly when cold. Low fuel pressure. According to our gauge it only has 20 PSI max and leaks down as soon as the pump turns off. On the fuel system we have a new pump in tank, fresh filter, and new regulator. That was a pain to install as the top of the intake manifold had to come off. Still have the low pressure and leak down. We thought the injectors were leaky but the thing is lean at idle as we sprayed starting fluid in the intake tube and the idle evened out. When cold it doesn't want to idle at all but will even out at 650 to 750 RPM when warm. Any idea what is going on? We have no idea what type of pump is in the tank as the people who own the truck put it in before we were tasked with fixing it. Still have the stock one. We plan to pressure test it and if it can go up to at least 80 PSI we will just put it back in and see what happens. So, any ideas on what is going on? I can record videos if any of you want to see the engine and hear it running. If anyone can figure this out I would greatly appreciate it as this goes beyond my knowledge of fuel injection problems.
  23. Hi guys! I have a 2006 Sierra Denali, and I'm just curious if theres any way to get a more substantial gain in power than just the 20hp or so from adding aftermarket air intakes/exhausts? obviously there's turbo and supercharging but is there anything in between? just something around a 40-70hp gain thats not over the top like a form of forced induction would be. It has the 6.0l Vortec and i believe 3.73 gears if that affects anything.
  24. I'm 17 and new to these forums and have a few questions. So I have a 2006 Silverado 1500 5.3L with 80,000 miles on it. I'm basically just looking to make 0-60 faster and not sure what combination of modifications I should do, keeping in mind I want to tow a few dirt bikes with the truck. It seems like I'm in weird spot because to make these trucks fast, most people add a supercharger, or just call it a day with an exhaust and a CAI. The supercharger route cost like what? $7000 all together? And the exhaust and CAI is around $1000? I have $2500 to spend on some goodies but not sure whats best to do after an exhaust, CAI, and Tune. Do a cam and rockers? Thanks.
  25. Zane & Josh Merva Copyright, GM-Trucks.com GM’s Active Fuel Management technology is somewhat controversial. Some people love it and some people hate it. There’s been long discussions regarding how to turn the system off but almost no mention of reprogramming AFM to run more often for increased fuel savings. However today, we unbox and give our first impressions of a product designed to do just that… the Range. What does it do? Range works with the active-fuel-management system (or AFM for short) in your GM truck or SUV. The device will work on nearly all GM vehicles with AFM technology. That includes engines in the Chevy Silverado, GMC Sierra, the Cadillac Escalade, as well as the Yukon, Suburban, Avalance, and Tahoe. The Range attaches to your OBD-II diagnostic port. Through the port, it temporarily modifies the software that runs the active-fuel-management system in your engine. Without any permanent modification or software flashing, the device allows your AFM engine to run in V4 mode more often. When plugged in, the system forces four-cylinder operation through a wider range of load. When unplugged, the engine reverts to stock and nothing is left changed. Range Technology describes it best: The theory is by forcing your engine to run in V4 mode more often, you can get better fuel economy in your truck. Range says an average owner can save 65 gallons a year, more than paying for the device’s $199 cost. The product comes from the former CEO of Superchips, so the engineering and development behind Range appear to be of top quality. The Range is clearly not an enthusiast’s garage hack. Instead, it’s a quality product that has undergone comprehensive testing. Because the Range does not override any engine safety parameters, Range Technology claims the device cannot harm your vehicle at all. Unboxing Good packaging is always important for any new product. When a consumer is paying nearly $200, the look and feel of a product’s box is critical. Range Technology seemed to recognize this and made unboxing the Range a satisfying experience. The Range comes in a high quality soft-touch cardboard box with minimal exterior logos and stickers. Just a silver range logo and product serial number adorn the outside. Cutting two clear stickers allow the top half of the box to separate from the bottom. Inside, you’ll find the Range front and center. A simple instruction card is slid behind the device. The product is displayed nicely and is easy to access. In short, the Range is packaged in a modern manner you’d expect from a $199 device. Installation Installing the Range is super easy and takes only a couple seconds. Just take the range out to your vehicle and open the drivers door. Look under the steering wheel and find your diagnostic port. Plug the Range into the diagnostic port while the vehicle is off. You should see a blue LED light up on the device and you’re good to go! Uninstalling the Range is just as easy. With the vehicle off, just unplug the device. Your vehicle’s active-fuel-management system will revert back to stock operation. First impressions As with any product that only takes a few seconds to install, it’s initially hard to believe that the Range could make any negligible difference. With the claims being made, we were initially skeptical. A few miles behind the wheel and down the road, our skepticism dissolved. Once the 5.3L V8 in Project Sierra warmed up, the Range kicked in. Our Sierra’s engine kicked down to V4 mode, just as always, but there was a noticeable difference in the time the system would stay engaged. No longer does a slight tip of the throttle “deactivate” AFM. The Range device held V4 mode longer, through more throttle, and even allowed us to travel up hills and accelerate. It’s a huge difference from stock, when any little incline or acceleration used to kick the engine into all eight cylinders with ease. Staying in 4 cylinder mode substantially longer does come with a few drawbacks. With only half the engine running noise, vibration, and exhaust drone are increased. It’s not harsh but very noticeable. These are the standard complaints we’ve heard of active-fuel-management in the past and part of the reason why some people detest it. We’ll consider these compromises as we continue to test the Range. Does it actually work? It’s immediately obvious that the Range does substantially increase the time Project Sierra runs in four-cylinder mode. Will that work out to increased fuel economy? Current Range customers say yes but we’re going to find out for ourselves firsthand. During the coming weeks we’re going to run the Range on Project Sierra. After a couple tanks of gas and a few calculations, we’ll see what effect it has. Because we’ve kept records of every single fill up in our truck any change in fuel economy, good or bad, will be easy to see. We’re report back when we have our final results. While we’re out testing, check out the product on the Range Technology’s website for yourself. We’ve also got a discussion going on this article in the GM-Trucks.com forum. We’ll be updating forum members with fuel economy numbers on a tank by tank basis, so cruise on over to our Project Sierra section and get the inside scoop on how things are progressing.
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