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Found 62 results

  1. I looked for existing thread on this question and couldn’t find it. I need a 3/4 ton crew cab with 4wd. I can’t afford new or the duramax at the moment. So going used and want to ask what is the best year? I am looking at 2003 with all the above and he’s asking 11k. 144k miles. Pretty good condition. Hoping to get some insight into that year or if there is a better option to look for. Thank you
  2. 06 Silverado 2500hd 6.0 My Silverado is getting really hot while towing up hill, to the point that the "Engine Coolant Hot" light is coming on. (Which I stop and let it cool down). This has gradually gotten worse. Truck does not get hot while towing on flat terrain. Any ideas?
  3. Hey yall! New member here, sorry for creating a thread so early on, but my warranty expiration is creeping up on me fast and I need to get this sorted- so here's my issue. I have a 2015 2500HD with the 6.0 and about 95,000mi, and for the past 6 months, I've been having this issue where It'd start pulling timing ( up to 15 degrees of KR) under moderate to heavy throttle, as soon as it hits 3000RPM. There is no audible knock, but 15 degrees of KR sounds very excessive. Higher octane fuel makes the issue better, and usually after long interstate drives (no heatsoak), it runs great, but generally, it's very bad. Towing a 32FT trailer full of band equipment up a mild hill, it struggles to get out of first gear, and slams into the next gear because the timing is so far retarded before the shift, that it screws with the shift timing. I have used various fuel system cleaners ( now trying Amsoil Pi, as I know its well proven ) but so far, none have made any difference. I want to check the fuel pressure, but I don't see a test port, and I can't get any OBD app to display fuel pressure. Here's what confuses me: Sometimes, under the same conditions, It'll run just fine and pull hard straight through 3000 RPM. The only thing I can find different between the times that it runs like a POS and times that it runs like its brand new, is that when it's running like crap, it shudders at idle- enough to be felt throughout the entire truck. It pulls the most timing at around 3000, and tapers down as the revs increase. I got it used, with about 76,000mi, so I'm not clear about its past. Back when it was running horribly I was considering that It might have been tuned by the previous owner, but lately, its been randomly running just fine. Its been fine for the past week or so, but I'm still very curious about what could be going on. I have TorquePRO recordings of the issue happening, which I may upload later if that would be of any help. I've been hoping for a CEL but of course- no pending or stored codes! Thank you all! Sorry for the length of the post!
  4. Might have a ridiculous question but I cant see the issue in theory so I am consulting the experts. I have a 2015 2500 HD 6.0 4x4. I recently had long tubes installed. First finding long tubes for this application is insane. I could not specifically find anything that guaranteed fitment for this year. I ended up with speed engineering stainless that was made for the 6.0 up to 2013 according to them it should carry over in later years which is true given the L96 has changed little to none. I had zero fitment issue with the passenger side but the left was awful...... hit the motor mount, frame, and drive shaft. I had the shop modify the header to fit......being honest he did exactly that and I'm impressed but I believe the header is leaking like nobody's buisness due to the 8 different cuts and bends he made. and makes an awful sound I do not feel like going through hell and back or spend the money on another long tube header for that side to run into the same issue...... so what if I ran a shorty 1 7/8 stainless on the driver side and a 1 7/8 long tube on the passenger side? It's off the wall but why not? If the true duals x and I have a custom tune in theory it should not be an issue right?
  5. Can any one help me find this issue. On my 08 Silverado 1500 Vortec Max I can drive normally find no issues no lights etc. Sometimes though I can either be going over a small bump going around 10-20 mph and then it clunks and then goes into neutral. The 2 other ways it happens is when I make a turn and give it some gas to speed up it revs up and clunks and then goes into neutral and the 3rd way can be in 1st gear and then putting a decent amount of gas on it and then it does it again. It acts like its in neutral when its in drive and if I stop it just makes a bunch of noise and I can step on the gas and no movement.It sometimes will just go back into drive but other times I have to put it in reverse wait a second until it clunks back into drive and then its perfectly fine like nothing happened. The problem doesn't occur often but when it does it happens a few times more that day. I was thinking it might be a solenoid.
  6. What all parts would I need to do a 6.0 cam swap on a 5.3 truck is a 2008
  7. I just purchased a 2011 gmc 2500hd Denali with 157000 miles on it. When the rpms are just below 2000 the needle spikes to 2000 and drops back, as if surging. It downshifts fine. If you try to gradually accelerate at that point it shudders as if in to low a gear. I have not tried pulling anything with this truck yet, but wanted to get an idea whether or not I have a serious problem or not. I took it it to a dealer to have a diagnostics ran on it and the tech couldn’t get power to the tester, so before I tackle that issue I wanted to see if I had a major issue. According to some of these forums this looks to be a issue on a lot of newer trucks. any experience with this issue would help. Thanks
  8. I have a 2008 2500hd with the 6.0 and its has some miles and is a bit tired, also it sounds like it. Needs lifter or possibly cam. I have a newer 6.0 vin G with only 24,000 on it and I can't find anywhere that says straight up if it can be swapped without major changes?.
  9. looking on purchasing a 2008 1500 with the 6.0. it has around 170xxx miles. what should i be looking at when i test drive it and take a closer look at it
  10. Good evening everyone! This is my first posting on the forum! I’ve got a 2011 GMC 2500HD 6.0 that has visited 2 tuners in the central Texas area. I have a TSP VVT2 cam, 3600 converter, forged internals, And exhaust, with more to come soon. I have been told by these shops that my truck could not be dialed in like it needs to be due to missing airflow tables on HPtuners. Supposedly the 2011 HD’s have a odd computer that has to be torque based tuned. I am having idle problems... pulling up to stop lights and turns the truck will die 8/10 times, but starts right back up. Anyone know a way around this hiccup? These shops have gotten it to the best they could, which still is not enough obviously.
  11. I traded my 2012 Silverado 1500 for a new 2016 2500HD! It's an LT trim level, but has quite a few options. It has the All Star package and LT Plus package, which adds most of the important items. It also has a few extras, like the LED bed lighting and towing mirrors. MSRP was just a little over 50k. Here's a few completely stock, dealership photos. It looks pretty plain for a 50k truck!
  12. I sell, fabricate, deliver, install and train workers how to use my packaging lines. In 2015 selected 2500HD WT 6.0 as the platform to use as my office (Truck Camper) and and tow vehicle. It provided great HD service and economical (per mile basis). On a trip to OR noted a resonance with my thumb on the steering wheel, when engine load changed going over an overpass. At first I thought it was roadway groves, but the rhythmic vibration stopped when manually dropping into a lower gear, increasing to 3000 RPM's. Not willing to chance break down north of Mount Shasta, returned home, switch vehicles and headed north. Upon return the rebuild search began. Deep dived into transmission repair cave and almost selected a remanufacture unit from Certified Transmission but learned shops are under no obligation to use their products and there's limit participation on the left coast. Most shops refuse to install a third party transmission citing warranty issues. Finally settled on a local shop in West Sacramento that rebuilds your transmission to the level you want. As a bonafide cave dude wanting to understand the how transmissions work, why they fail and how to repair, called (late Friday) Pro-Built Transmission and spoke to Don the owner. I outlined in detail what the problem was, and through a series of questions from Don about the trucks' service history and how I use it, he was confident what the problem was. Arrived two hours late from my Monday 8 am appointment, Don pulled me through (no signage stating for insurance purposes you can see what we're doing to your ride gate) his shop showing various components, their failure points and although the 6L90 is a simple transmission pointed out common failure points. He showed various 6L90's requiring rebuild, some under 60K miles, and could not believe mine made it to 194K. I relayed after the first transmission filter change, started pulling 5.5 quarts out and replacing every other oil change, in other words, a poor man transmission flush. My reasoning was pay 25 dollars instead of $250 for a complete flush. Don smiled and said that explains it, noting above all else, fluid change saves transmissions. Satisfied Don wasn't a hack, dropped off the key and within an hour, after a test drive and noting data stored in in codes sent me this. I knew it was bad and knowing a bottle of shudder stop wasn't gonna fix this, authorized repair. With high mileage, I asked about universal joint replacement, Don relayed he had a shop that could replace joint, balance the driveshaft and check the center bearing. Also since transmission was removed, and although showing no signs of leakage, had him replace the rear oil seal as well. Don pulled the transmission and confirmed what he suspected, torque converter friction plate failure. The metal on metal grind produced fine grains that worked its way pass the bell hosing bearing and through the pump. Damage continued through the valve body and solenoid pack (TCM). Solenoids contaminated Note the metal grit in the screen on the right. What was unexpected was the metal grinds didn't make to the clutch packs. After 194K miles, 90% were still serviceable with some showing wear on the outer ring. What's interesting with GM is, instead of applying full pressure to the clutch plates, they control the amount of pressure applied. The black rubber ring on the piston drum engages the plate outer section. This accounted for the most wear on the clutch plate. Don showed how the replacement piston drum engages the full surface of the plate; provides a sharper shift and lowering the wear. THE FIX. Drive shaft showed the center bearing was bad and was along with universal joints replaced. Don sent the pump face (forgive if I don't name the parts correctly) to be machined smooth (8-9 thousandths). He switched solenoid rods from alloy to steel, and spoke about the OME cost. Chevy spends perhaps 50 cents on alloy rod where as three steel one cost him $80.00. He installed a new pump and higher valve pressure components. Here's a picture of some parts replaced in my 6L90. Don sent out the torque converter to another shop. They split it open and here's the condition. Don then explained his vendor replaces the back half (part the friction ring presses against) with a thicker (1/4 inch instead of the 1/8 inch) material machined from a billet. This handles heat better and prevents the converter material from warping. They also flash braze vane tabs to prevent movement (picture of open converter is not mine) If you get a good shop and can wait four days, one can retain the original unit and get upgraded parts. Note the remanufacturing industry is designed for a quick turnaround for transmission shops. They cite a higher level of expertise, however the reality is they created a process based on volume allowing a price point favorable to the transmission shops. Nothing wrong with that and note I wanted to retain my original transmission. Programming Invoice. Yes its high, but keep in mind two other shops were involved, addition work was completed and Don took time to educate me on the transmissions, AND its a tax write off. In the final analysis and under heavy duty conditions, if you have a 6L90 strapped to a 6.0 and do fluid changes, your transmission will survive to 150K miles. If I had a better understanding of transmissions when observing the gray paste material surrounding the pan magnet at the last transmission filter change, I could minimize cost with just a torque converter change. As for this repair, (most expensive during ownership) it cost me .0229 per mile. This and the top end rebuild posted earlier, gives a total cost of $5944.85, (.03 cents per mile) returning my truck to service, hopefully getting another 150k miles. Test drove my truck and report shifts are crisper with the only change being when going over overpasses, and sensing the torque change, rpm will drop 25-50 rpms and return on completing the elevation change. Next week I'll go up the Grapevine with a 4k pound truck camper and report how she does.
  13. 2007 suburban k2500. 6.0/4l80e. I have a click when cranked situation no start. Also, power locks cycle every time it’s cranked. If you hold the key in the crank position it’ll click every few seconds. With the key in the on position I’ve had multiple windows roll themselves down, locks cycle, all kinds of dash lights. So far I have replaced the battery, the starter, main power wire from fuse block to battery, starter power wire to battery, I’ve cut the end off the alternator power to battery cable and terminated all these wires with a different style battery clamp. I am bypassing the 175 amp megafuse. All 2 gauge wire. To my knowledge the oem battery cables are shit so I opted to make my own. On the ground side I’ve replaced the chassis ground to battery wire, the engine to battery ground wire, and I’ve added an engine to body ground wire to rule out the. Braided ground strap on the back of the drivers side cylinder head. No blown fuses, I’ve switched the starter relay with another of the same size, and nothing has changed this trucks condition. I’ve tried tilting the steering wheel to see if that would let the truck start and it didn’t. I’m waiting on an ignition switch to come to oreillys this evening. I’m completely lost. I removed the under hood fuse block and inspected it and didn’t see any corrosion on any connectors. I’ve heard there’s some intergrated relay in the fuse block that could be the issue but I have no idea. I just bought this truck knowing it needed a battery and brakes, drove it off a trailer and parked it and went to move it 3 days ago and got this by surprise.
  14. Original owner, all stock 2015 2500HD WT 6.0 gas 190k miles. Cylinder 3 exhaust valve tip almost gone. Engine developed a low noise valve tick on start up and idle, 3k miles later, louder and at all rpms. Intermittent (twice) P0303. Removed valve cover, rocker arm and observed damaged valve. Roller lifter and cam journal showed no signs of damage. Of the eight valves, one destroyed and three others showing wear( pic 3) Inspected passenger cylinder head valve bank, no signs of wear or damage. Oil stain seen through exhaust port. Informed GM and assigned case #9-5190338716. The truck has been a solid performer and provides great service. The short years and high mileage may indicate future issues with valve lots that may be below specification. My plan is to replace all valve parts including lifters. Should GM want to inspect these parts, I will make them available upon request.
  15. I just installed a different engine in my 01 2500HD 6.0L the replacement engine was also supposed to be a 2001 engine, one of the coils packs was bad and I went to swap one off my old engine but they mounted different. Did GM use 2 different coils packs on the 2001 or is this a newer engine?
  16. Ok so we’re getting ready to put the replacement engine in my 2001 2500HD 6.0 and one of the exhaust bolts was broken of like they do. So we removed all the bolts and are going to replace them. So my question is where should I get the new bolts GM replacements or get them from somewhere else and use stainless or grade 10.9. And do we use anti-seize or not?
  17. Hey guys, this is a officially my first post on this forum as a member! I've recently got my exhaust done for my 2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD Classic that I recently bought about 3 months ago now. I decided I wanted it pretty loud with a deep rumble with a good amount of drone but not obnoxious and screamy. I did a lot of research on a true dual setup and read that it would be louder than your standard single in dual out muffler. So I decided to have 2 Flowmaster Original 40 series mufflers installed with dual 2.5 inch pipes in and out coming out of the sides 45 degrees with 4x18" chrome slash cut tips. It's not giving me the volume and tone I was expecting, hearing how the 6.0 is a very noisy and loud engine to quiet down. It's barely louder than stock single exhaust on idle. I was thinking of taking it to another exhaust shop and having them run 3" pipes instead of 2.5" pipes since stock pipes are already dual 3", swapping out the original 40's and replacing them with super 44's. I hear that the 44's are more deeper and aggressive than all the 40 series that Flowmaster has to offer. I'm not really a big fan of the single chamber mufflers and straight through mufflers as they just sound too tinny and way to aggressive for my taste. I'm also aware that adding headers would really help, but I've seen videos of these things with stock manifolds and cats and they are VERY loud with the 2-chambered Flowmasters. Here's a list of things that I'm not happy about and a list of things I think I'm thinking of doing. It be really cool if you guys can share your knowledge and experiences with me to give me advice on what I should do. Not Happy: - Start up isn't very impressive (I feel like its sounds more like Flowmaster moderate sounding mufflers like the 50 series) - I get none of this "dreaded and obnoxious interior drone" the 6.0 is infamously known for, especially with the 40 series installed. Cruising in the city, it's not much louder than the stock muffler even when accelerating. It does drone just a little bit when going up hills or inclines though. (I'd love to have a decent amount of drone) - Not impressed by the exterior sound. I had my friend drive it as I stood outside and it was not loud at all, though it did have a nice sound to it. It had more of a moderate volume, sounding more like today's newer trucks with the stock duals that come with them. (I'd love to get a really loud deep rumble with a good amount of aggressiveness.) - The guy who did my exhaust seemed to have added 2.25" 40's instead of 2.5" but he stretched the inlet and outlet out to 2.5 inches, but still looks like there's a 2.25" choke point restricting the flow, but I don't know if that has an affect. - He welded my tips on weird, welding 10" of the pipe itself inside the tips What I'm thinking of doing: - Swapping out the 2.5 inch pipes with 3" pipes (I heard pipe diameter and muffler choice really have an affect on volume and tone) -Swapping the original 40's for 2 Flowmaster Super 44's - Adding an H-pipe - Put the mufflers as close to the cab as possible to increase cab resonance. Will the Flowmaster Super 44's and dual 3" pipes have an effect on volume then what I have already? What do you guys think? Let me know! Thanks!
  18. Ok so a while back I posted about my 2500HD running rough, I changed the Injectors (2 weren’t firing) and then it ran as bad if not worse and started knocking. Well today day I finally got around to pulling the engine apart to find #3 rod broke in half and into pieces. Anyone have any ideas on what happened?
  19. Might have a ridiculous question but I cant see the issue in theory so I am consulting the experts. I have a 2015 2500 HD 6.0 4x4. I recently had long tubes installed. First finding long tubes for this application is insane. I could not specifically find anything that guaranteed fitment for this year. I ended up with speed engineering stainless that was made for the 6.0 up to 2013 according to them it should carry over in later years which is true given the L96 has changed little to none. I had zero fitment issue with the passenger side but the left was awful...... hit the motor mount, frame, and drive shaft. I had the shop modify the header to fit......being honest he did exactly that and I'm impressed but I believe the header is leaking like nobody's buisness due to the 8 different cuts and bends he made. and makes an awful sound I do not feel like going through hell and back or spend the money on another long tube header for that side to run into the same issue...... so what if I ran a shorty 1 7/8 stainless on the driver side and a 1 7/8 long tube on the passenger side? It's off the wall but why not? If the true duals x and I have a custom tune in theory it should not be an issue right?
  20. Hello all! A few months ago I purchased a 2006 Silverado 2500 with the 6.0 Vortec engine. My coolant is slightly discolored and there seems to be a little scale inside the tank. I would like to backflush the system, but I am not entirely sure how on this truck. My Chiltons manual says to remove the thermostat and reinstall the housing by itself, then hook up a garden hose to the radiator and backflush. 2 chapters later, the same manual says that the thermostat is part of the housing and cannot be removed! Any advice?
  21. Have a custom mid-pipe I built to install an aftermarket muffler (Magnaflow 12909) in my 2015 2500hd 6.0 truck. I removed the muffler and went back to stock so have this left over. This makes a cleaner install and saves your mid pipe if you want to revert back to stock. The aftermarket mufflers don't have as much offset as factory and the factory mid-pipe has a offset in it that accounts for that. With this straight mid-pipe it works perfect with the less offset of the aftermarket muffler and allows everything to be installed level with the truck. Here is my post about the muffler with additional info: I had this on a crew cab, 6.5' bed 4x4 truck. I'm sure other cab/bed configurations might need this lengthened or shortened but at least the hard part of the flange and hangers are done. Asking $75 for this custom mid-pipe. How it looked installed. muffler not included. Factory muffler to show the drop offset in the original mid-pipe.
  22. Hey guys, been searching but haven't found a simple way to look this up. I have a 2008 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 Gas, extended cab, 8 foot bed, I am reasonably sure its a 3.73 axle ratio and it has the towing package. The truck has almost 180k on it and the rear diff cover is leaking (seeping through). What I want to get is: http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1803 Has one on my old truck, its a nice piece. However I see that they only make it for a 9.5" ring gear. I see that my truck could be 9.5, 10.5, or 11.5. How do I go about identifying it?
  23. 2000 6.0L, 5 spd, 4x4, ex-cab, swb. Notice: 5 speed, manual. Get this truck over (about) 1700 rpm's & it'll maintain speed (foot off the gas) till it hits a big enough hill. It'll gain speed/acceleration down the hills. It's kinda like the cruise control is on. The big problem is when out of gear & rolling, motor will rev way up, eventually bump itself down, then wind-up again. BIG PROBLEM- Can't just take it out of gear & coast down, unless you wanna hear that motor wind out. Usually a buzz sound, similar to a street light buzzing happens around the same time, not sure if related. Already replaced a throttle control. Have been told wiring problems are common for 2000? Any ideas ? Thanks.
  24. Hi, 2001 GMC C3, 6.0 keeps going into limp mode. Need help. Its been to numerous legit mechanics, everyone thinks they know the silver bullet fix. Always fixed for a week or so, then it starts again. Has had TB replaced, all all associated possible problems, wiring, wiring, wiring, knock sensors, etc. etc. Been struggling with it for over a year. Nice truck, would like to keep it, otherwise trading it in and gonna stick GMC with it. Dangerous to drive it anywhere but local. Anyone have any suggestions? It has onlly 130,000+ miles on it and runs fantastic when it isn't in limp. HELP!
  25. I have a1999 Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0 that I just got running again it has been sitting for 2 years because my girls dad was going through some rough time and didn't really care now 2 years later he is in no shape to be under a hood or on his back messing with the thing anyways I needed a vehicle and he said if I could get it running I could use it I went and bought a can of sea foam a 10gal gas can with gas and battery put everything in/on and it started right up like it was nothing I was like sweet since then witch was 2 days before this post ive don a oil change wit 10w30 Castrol edge high millage and k&n oil filter a much needed bath all new lights toped off dexcool, power steering, witch is leaking but the whole reason I was making this post was when I stop at nights 2 things happen AND ONLY SOMTIMES the gas peddles feels like its getting stuck when I go to APPLY presser but not on release and it idles funny but if I put it in natural and rev it the put it back in gear it will idle normal the rest of the time till the light turns green but at the next light it may or may not do it what do you think it could be
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