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Showing results for tags '5.7'.
Found 15 results
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96 Chevy K3500 with the 5.7l It has about 215K miles. I am trying to diagnose a fuel pressure issue. My truck first started to run rough like it had a miss. Check engine light came on. I had codes for both banks being lean. I cleaned the MAF sensor with no change. I checked for vacuum leaks. I hooked up a scan tool and checked the LTFT for both banks. They are both at 25%. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the rail test port. Key on engine off it is around 45. As soon as the pump shuts off it almost instantly drops to 0. I am trying to figure out if I have a bad check valve in my fuel pump or if my FPR is bad. Before this all started, I noticed a loss in power. It could barely get a trailer up the slightest incline. I was trying to see if I could find out the difference in the speed of fuel pressure dropping when the check valve in the pump is bad and when the FPR is bad, to try and isolate the issue. -
I was wondering if there is someone that can help me with this truck. It has a rebuilt s&j engine (5.7l 4 bolt main) that I have been fighting to get running well. It has had all new sensors put on it except one thing to note is I received a bad engine with a cracked block installed the first go around and it was ran for a day to work and then next day back to the mechanic so it may have affected the new o2 sensor put on the good engine but I'm not sure. Well this 2nd engine runs really rough when its cold out and the colder it is, the rougher it runs. It takes like 5 to 8 revolutions before it starts and it runs good for about 2 seconds then it just hits the floor, back firing and missing like crazy. Another thing it does is once in a while the volts will drop from 14 down to 10 like the alternator stops working for 1 second then it jumps right back up. I've tried 3 different alternators and nothing seems to change it. It's like something gets turned on for 1 second thats shorted to ground and then shuts right back off but I'm not sure what it could be or if it has anything to do with the other issue. I've put new plugs and wires, rebuilt throttle body with injectors, map sensor, distributor, spark control module, knock sensor with pigtail, ignition coil, fuel pump, both coolant sensors, egr valve and solenoid, iac valve with pigtail, ecm and 3 different alternators. It really lacks power when it is warmed up and its getting bad gas mileage compared to the original engine. I used a red devil river aldl cable and tuner pro rt to pull some data off of it but I need help figuring out why the blm is so low. Is it because of my o2 sensor or what could it be? What could be causing my voltage to drop off like that? I can't get it to drop voltage with the tuner pro connected either. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am new to this tuner pro data stuff. Thanks! truck2.xdl -
I have a 1999 K2500 regular cab with the 5.7 and 4L80E transmission, 285s for tires. I got 14mpg bringing it home, which was about 250 miles. I've been driving it around and I'm getting about 9-10mpg. I have read that an exhaust, cold air intake, and new 02 sensors. I plan on replacing all of the 02 sensors so I was wandering how many upstream and downstream sensors there? And is there any other ways to improve my fuel economy? Thanks
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Hello there! My 1993 Silverado K1500 is throwing code 59. From what I can find this indicates that the transmission fluid sensor circuit voltage is high, which would mean that the sensor is telling the computer that the fluid is too hot? If I clear the codes and start the truck cold, it immediately throws this code. So I know **for sure** that the transmission isn’t actually hot. My question is, how should I go about diagnosing this? Is the sensor external and is there a way I can test to be sure the wiring is right? Or is it internal and should just be replaced? Appreciate any pointers you can give me.
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Hey, all! I have a question for anyone who know's there stuff about adding HP / Trq to 5.7 350 trucks, and thanks in advance for you info! Truck is: 1998 C1500 single cab, SWB, Sport 350 (5.7). Truck is 99% stock, only added dual cherry bomb glasspacks. Has 205k miles and still runs great, doesn't burn oil, doesn't smoke or knock, etc. Transmission is Muncie and is about ~2 years old. If I have about 2 grand to drop on it to add some HP/Trq what's the best bang for buck? I've been searching around and have been thinking: 1. have it rebuilt into a 383 stroker with an Eagle / Scat kit. That'd almost certainly wipe out all the funds right there, but could add some HP/TRQ and provide a better base to build on later. (Note: engine doesn't necessarily NEED a rebuild, but will eventually) 2. forget the rebuild and get full exhaust (headers > back), CAI, ignition, etc.. So, I'm leaning towards #2, however that presents another question: what's the best bang for buck with bolt-on parts? Heads, ignition, headers, CAI, etc? Anything I'm missing? -
I am looking for some help here with my truck. Current situation, bought the truck with a no start condition, Discovered Water in the fuel. Drained the lines and put fresh fuel in, started 6-7 times with bad idle then stalled. 8th time started right up drove it around for 30 mins with no codes and prefect idle. Left it idling and went for lunch. Stalled when I was away, could not get it to start. Starting fluid would only keep it going to a few seconds. Then I changed the fuel filter, It Started perfectly for 15 seconds then stalled. It only attempts to start when I leave it alone for a while. Vehicle Details 1998 C3500 DRW 5.7 Vortec 180,000 KM Good condition Repairs, Fuel Pump Fuel Filter No codes. Gift Certificate to the Person Who leads me in the right direction.
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alternator reads 13.6 volts charging. Voltage on the dash is 12. As the vehicle runs the voltage drops slowly until 10 volts. Any suggestions to what the issue is? Brand new battery solid ground on it and positive.
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Of course my first post would be a trouble shooting question right. So ive got a 97 5.7 vortec, new starter, alternator, fuel pump and filter. a while back i started having issues getting my truck to start if the engine was warm and i had turned it off. usually quick trips to the store were ok but as soon as my engine gets to temperature it wont start. ideas of where to start looking. -
Hey guys, I have a 1992 C1500 Pick up 5.7 liter TBI and I was trying to get some information on it that could help with my building it. I always hear people talking about their LT1's and LS1's and so forth... I was just wondering which engine I had. Any responses are appreciated. If its possible I would like to swap out my TBI Intake and PCM with one from a similar year Camaro with the 5.7 Liter engine but I need to do some research to figure out if that's possible and knowing which engine I have will help a ton.
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My truck's check engine light came on so i had a local mechanic shot diagnose it. They told be Cylinder #4 was missing a lot and something about that being just at idle rpms. And cylinder #3 was missing a tad to. Anyone have any idea what it could be? valve maybe? idk.. And i already checked basic stuff like plug and wires.. HELP! -
Hey everyone, I am having issues with my 92 c1500 5.7l. I made this account because I desperately need help from people who know more about these things than I do. So let's start. The first thing you need to know is that I have a weird truck. Someone who had it before me said they had the CTS (cooling temperature sensor) go bad, and the temperature gauge doesn't work. Their fix for it? They hooked a manual toggle switch up to the ECU so that they can flip the switch on when the engine is cold, dumping more fuel, and flip the switch off when the engine warms up, giving it a leaner air/fuel mixture. I believe the issues I have may have something to do with this. Where the problems start: The truck will idle fine if it is COLD with the toggle switch on, and will idle fine when the engine is at normal temp with the switch off. If it's cool but not cold, it will idle rough (rpms almost die and the jump back up to 1500 then down again) with the switch off, and die with the switch on. I figure this is simply because this switch doesn't give it a healthy air/fuel mixture because it's not adjusted gradually by the computer; instead it's simply rich (on) or lean (off). Next, when I back out of the driveway, it does fine (I slightly ride the clutch out and back out) Then I go to first gear, and let off the clutch slowly, and give it a tiny bit of gas, just like any other manual tranny. Now, if I have a perfect or near perfect launch, no problems occur. But, if I am in a rush, or simply not paying enough attention (I'm rather inexperienced) the truck will buck. Normal right? Well this thing doesn't buck once or twice.. As I continue to accelerate through first, it will buck HARD. enough to make the front end dip like 6 inches repeatedly. If I don't let off the gas, I slow down and it continues to buck even when I'm not on the throttle. If I do let off the gas, it will either clear out and stop, or will keep going. If I turn it off and crank it over again and roll into first, the problem totally clears out. Assuming we have the bucking problem out of the way, I will accelerate up through first. Sometimes this is smooth, sometimes there are dead spots, and sometimes there are lots of dead spots. I shift into second. Sometimes the shift is smooth, sometimes it kind of jerks forward, and sometimes it jerks HARD. I accelerate through second, and this is where the worst dead spots are as far as acceleration. It doesn't act like the gears are slipping or something, but rather like it is having trouble firing properly and is losing power. Once I accelerate past 2.5k or 3k, it runs like a dream. Shift into 3rd, and all problems stop almost 100% of the time. Very rarely it will jerk into third or fourth, but usually these shifts are clean. I figure this is because by now the wheels are moving plenty so that they are enough to keep the engine spinning alone. I will almost guarantee this is NOT a transmission issue. My clutch doesn't smell, it disengages and engages properly, and the tranny NEVER grinds except if I don't go into a different gear before reverse, which I'm told is pretty normal. Another clue that this isn't the transmission is that when it bucks, the higher RPMS that it jumps to are the normal ones, and when the rpms drop, it is due to a loss of power. This I have tested by trying to floor it when I'm bucking, and it really doesn't do anything except kill the sometimes engine and I have to restart it. If it were a tranny problem, it would just go out. Can someone please tell me what's going on here? Is the toggle switch the cause of this? Bad TPS? Something else? All three? I'm happy to provide pictures, videos, or further explanation for anyone who wants to take this problem on with me. Thanks so much in advance. Also, I will include a video with this post as soon as it uploads to youtube. EDIT: I should probably include that it NEVER backfires. If I'm in neutral and the truck is warm, the engine sounds VERY strong and does not have any problem picking up RPMs when revving. It sounds like a beast, and when it's warm it rarely misses in idle. Video: Skip to 4:30 to see it buck hard in first gear. -
I recently replaced the cap, rotor, spark plugs, and crankshaft position sensor on my 1999 tahoe (police) and it runs great! But... when I'm driving up slight inclines giving it about 1/4 to 1/3 acceleration, it starts to misfire and run really rough. It goes away immediately if i gas it and it downshifts,or if i let off the gas a little.. does anybody have any advice on how to fix it? Its a 5.7 4x4. I didn't reset any codes or anything when i changed the crank position sensor and i don't have any check engine lighht on (even when it misfires). -
Hey guys back from appendix surgery and well came across a new project truck, its a 2000 escalade, the previous owner decided to do a rering rebuild from summit. well needless to say he put it back in and NO go. so i picked it up off him for a small fee. so im pulling the 5.7L(vortec) and am gonna have a friend from the machine shop go thru it and inspect the work and make sure it was put together right. but while its apart i was wondering, timing chain wasnt changed but wanting to possibly put a timing gear set or a double or single roller(which one can work and where can i find it?summit search engine sucks). also it has an upgraded spider injector set and supposably was an upgraded (sfi to mfi) but i dont want to changed the complete fuel injection system want all the computers to work like they did off the line, but wanna make alittle power since im gonna have the engine apart. please can someone help. thanks
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im at my wits end with my 89 k2500 need some help.
topumpchump posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
I have a 1989 k2500 5.7 tbi with 171,xxx miles on it. I've had no issues with it until a month ago when the engine is under load it cuts out, as soon as I let off it back fires and everything is normal. I've replaced cap and rotor, plugs and wires, coil, egr valve and solenoid, map sensor, tps and fuel filter trying to track down the culprit. Ran the codes, it came back with code 34 map sensor. Unsure why, cleared the codes and it throws it again. The truck idles just fine just won't drive well. I should probably also include that the truck has no cat anymore and is 3" straight pipped back to a flowmaster. Unsure if that will make any difference with help as it had had this set up for over a year prior to any issues. Please help, I'm not used to these tbi systems but more familiar with old school engines that only need suck, blow, bang to run correct. -
Hi maybe someone can help me with my engine swap issues ! I have a Silverado Sportside pickup from 1989 with a 4.3 Liter V6 engine. I have now removed the 4.3 L engine and fixed up the engine room with new paint and wiring and so on..... and i am about to put in a 5.7 L V8 from 1989 to get better perfomance. My Question is: On the torque convertor it is a label with: 8653702 on. Must i change convertor for the new engine (5.7 L), and if so are there anything else i must change ? If so what convertor number is for 5.7 L V8 engine (Gasolin) Best Regars from Finland Patrik
