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Showing results for tags '5.7'.
Found 6 results
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Hi people. I'm new to this forum and hate to ask for help, but idk what to do. I purchased an older truck from an auction a few years ago. I hardly use the truck, but for moving gravel or quads, I just needed it since I can't do this with my VW bug. The problem started with realizing after I purchased the truck that there's been some rebuilding, and for a while now, I've been getting knock sensor codes (ie. low input P0332 and P0337). I changed them out last year with some lower end sensors + harness, but the codes returned, so I changed them out again recently with ACDelco and a new harness, and again the codes are reappearing. Now I'm wondering, although the Sierra 2500 (2006) came with a 6.0 vortec, is it possible that this engine has been swapped with a 5.7? I saw 5.7 written under the hood when I first bought it, but never thought much about it, and now I'm just not sure. I've looked on the front of the (leftside) head, but there was only a 4 letter code that didn't id anything. There were some numbers on the cylinder, but again, nothing comes up doing a search for them (ie. zero hits on google). I've heard that the engine number should be stamped somewhere near the rear of the engine, but I can't see anything. So where should I look for the engine's serial number? I know the engine is a vortec engine (as the plastic cover above the manifold indicates), I just want to make sure. If this is a 6.0, then maybe I will need to look at the PCM 'knock module'. If this is actually a 5.7, I think I may need to order different knock sensors (?) I'm not sure and could use some help. This is a picture of the leftside engine in front of the cylinder head. I think it reads D224? I'm not sure.
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96 Chevy K3500 with the 5.7l It has about 215K miles. I am trying to diagnose a fuel pressure issue. My truck first started to run rough like it had a miss. Check engine light came on. I had codes for both banks being lean. I cleaned the MAF sensor with no change. I checked for vacuum leaks. I hooked up a scan tool and checked the LTFT for both banks. They are both at 25%. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the rail test port. Key on engine off it is around 45. As soon as the pump shuts off it almost instantly drops to 0. I am trying to figure out if I have a bad check valve in my fuel pump or if my FPR is bad. Before this all started, I noticed a loss in power. It could barely get a trailer up the slightest incline. I was trying to see if I could find out the difference in the speed of fuel pressure dropping when the check valve in the pump is bad and when the FPR is bad, to try and isolate the issue. -
I was wondering if there is someone that can help me with this truck. It has a rebuilt s&j engine (5.7l 4 bolt main) that I have been fighting to get running well. It has had all new sensors put on it except one thing to note is I received a bad engine with a cracked block installed the first go around and it was ran for a day to work and then next day back to the mechanic so it may have affected the new o2 sensor put on the good engine but I'm not sure. Well this 2nd engine runs really rough when its cold out and the colder it is, the rougher it runs. It takes like 5 to 8 revolutions before it starts and it runs good for about 2 seconds then it just hits the floor, back firing and missing like crazy. Another thing it does is once in a while the volts will drop from 14 down to 10 like the alternator stops working for 1 second then it jumps right back up. I've tried 3 different alternators and nothing seems to change it. It's like something gets turned on for 1 second thats shorted to ground and then shuts right back off but I'm not sure what it could be or if it has anything to do with the other issue. I've put new plugs and wires, rebuilt throttle body with injectors, map sensor, distributor, spark control module, knock sensor with pigtail, ignition coil, fuel pump, both coolant sensors, egr valve and solenoid, iac valve with pigtail, ecm and 3 different alternators. It really lacks power when it is warmed up and its getting bad gas mileage compared to the original engine. I used a red devil river aldl cable and tuner pro rt to pull some data off of it but I need help figuring out why the blm is so low. Is it because of my o2 sensor or what could it be? What could be causing my voltage to drop off like that? I can't get it to drop voltage with the tuner pro connected either. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am new to this tuner pro data stuff. Thanks! truck2.xdl -
I have a 1999 K2500 regular cab with the 5.7 and 4L80E transmission, 285s for tires. I got 14mpg bringing it home, which was about 250 miles. I've been driving it around and I'm getting about 9-10mpg. I have read that an exhaust, cold air intake, and new 02 sensors. I plan on replacing all of the 02 sensors so I was wandering how many upstream and downstream sensors there? And is there any other ways to improve my fuel economy? Thanks
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Hello there! My 1993 Silverado K1500 is throwing code 59. From what I can find this indicates that the transmission fluid sensor circuit voltage is high, which would mean that the sensor is telling the computer that the fluid is too hot? If I clear the codes and start the truck cold, it immediately throws this code. So I know **for sure** that the transmission isn’t actually hot. My question is, how should I go about diagnosing this? Is the sensor external and is there a way I can test to be sure the wiring is right? Or is it internal and should just be replaced? Appreciate any pointers you can give me.
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Hey, all! I have a question for anyone who know's there stuff about adding HP / Trq to 5.7 350 trucks, and thanks in advance for you info! Truck is: 1998 C1500 single cab, SWB, Sport 350 (5.7). Truck is 99% stock, only added dual cherry bomb glasspacks. Has 205k miles and still runs great, doesn't burn oil, doesn't smoke or knock, etc. Transmission is Muncie and is about ~2 years old. If I have about 2 grand to drop on it to add some HP/Trq what's the best bang for buck? I've been searching around and have been thinking: 1. have it rebuilt into a 383 stroker with an Eagle / Scat kit. That'd almost certainly wipe out all the funds right there, but could add some HP/TRQ and provide a better base to build on later. (Note: engine doesn't necessarily NEED a rebuild, but will eventually) 2. forget the rebuild and get full exhaust (headers > back), CAI, ignition, etc.. So, I'm leaning towards #2, however that presents another question: what's the best bang for buck with bolt-on parts? Heads, ignition, headers, CAI, etc? Anything I'm missing?
