Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '5.7'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • GM-Trucks.com Original News & Product Reviews
    • The Newsroom
    • The Garage
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2019+ T1XX Platform
    • T1XX Speculation & Spy Shots
    • 2019 Chevy Silverado & GMC Sierra
    • 2020 Chevy Silverado HD & GMC Sierra HD
    • 2020 Chevy Suburban / Tahoe & GMC Yukon / Denali
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2014-2019 K2XX Platform
    • 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC Sierra
    • 2015-2019 Suburban/Tahoe & Yukon/Yukon Denali
    • 2015-2019 Chevy Silverado & GMC Sierra HD
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 1999-2006 GMT800 & 2007-2013 GMT900 Platforms
    • 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
    • 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HD
  • Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
    • 2015-2020 Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
    • 2005-2012 Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
  • Midsize Crossover - 2017-2019 C1XX Platform
    • 2017-2019 Traverse, Acadia, Enclave & XT5
    • 2019+ Blazer
  • Classic Chevrolet / GMC Pickup Trucks
    • 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 Platform
    • 1973-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Square Body / Rounded Line Pickups
    • 1967-1972 Chevrolet & GMC Glamour / Action Line Pickups
    • 1960-1966 Chevrolet C/K/Apache & GMC 1000-3000 Pickups
    • 1982-2005 Chevrolet S-10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma/Jimmy
    • 1969-1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer & GMC Fullsize Jimmy
  • Marketplace
    • For Sale/Wanted
    • Member & Vendor Rating Forum
    • Member Product Reviews
  • GM-Trucks.com is supported by
    • 1AAuto.com
    • Adam's Premium Car Care
    • Agri-Cover
    • Arnott Air Suspension
    • Black Bear Performance
    • GMPartsDirect.com
    • UPR Products
    • ZOOM Concentrated Cleaner
  • The Lounge
    • Off-Topic
    • Automotive Industry & Market Discussion
    • New Member Introductions
    • Meetups, Events, & Gatherings
    • GM-Trucks.com Comment Box
  • Hobbies & Lifestyle
    • Photography
    • Major League Sports, Outdoor Recreation, Firearms, Hunting, OHRV
    • Racing, Strip, & Track
    • Trailers, Hitches, & Towing
    • Garage & Home, Snow Plowing, Landscaping, & Lawn Care
    • Technology, Devices, & Gaming
    • Vehicle Buying, Financing, Incentives, & GM Card
    • Vehicle Builds
  • Technical & Advanced
    • Vehicle Appearance, Care, & Maintenance
    • Ask the GM Technician
    • Performance Engine Tuning
    • Transmission, Suspension, Transfer Case, & Axles
    • Wheels, Tires, & TPMS
    • Audio, Electronics, OnStar, MyLink, Intellilink & SiriusXM
    • How-To
  • Chevrolet, GMC, Buick & Cadillac Crossovers
    • 2013-2017 Buick Encore & Chevrolet Trax
    • 2009-2017 Chevrolet Equinox & GMC Terrain
    • 2018 Chevrolet Equinox & GMC Terrain
    • 2007-2016 Chevrolet Traverse, GMC Acadia, Buick Enclave, & Saturn Outlook
    • 2001-2008 Chevrolet TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy & Buick Rainier
  • Commercial Vehicles
    • 1980-2009 Chevrolet Kodiak and GMC Topkick
    • 1996-2018 Chevrolet Express & GMC Savana
    • 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 4500HD/5500HD/6500HD
  • Black Truck Club's Topics
  • Texas Owner's Group's Topics
  • South Carolina Silverado Owners's Topics
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Topics
  • Canadian Owners Club's Welcome
  • SCUBA divers of GM-Trucks's Scuba Talk
  • Red Truck Club's Topics
  • New England Owner's Group's Topics


  • Events
  • Birthdays
  • Texas Owner's Group's Events
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Events
  • Red Truck Club's Events


  • Articles
  • News
  • Reviews
    • Project Sierra
  • Resources


  • RPO Codes

Found 11 results

  1. Hey, all! I have a question for anyone who know's there stuff about adding HP / Trq to 5.7 350 trucks, and thanks in advance for you info! Truck is: 1998 C1500 single cab, SWB, Sport 350 (5.7). Truck is 99% stock, only added dual cherry bomb glasspacks. Has 205k miles and still runs great, doesn't burn oil, doesn't smoke or knock, etc. Transmission is Muncie and is about ~2 years old. If I have about 2 grand to drop on it to add some HP/Trq what's the best bang for buck? I've been searching around and have been thinking: 1. have it rebuilt into a 383 stroker with an Eagle / Scat kit. That'd almost certainly wipe out all the funds right there, but could add some HP/TRQ and provide a better base to build on later. (Note: engine doesn't necessarily NEED a rebuild, but will eventually) 2. forget the rebuild and get full exhaust (headers > back), CAI, ignition, etc.. So, I'm leaning towards #2, however that presents another question: what's the best bang for buck with bolt-on parts? Heads, ignition, headers, CAI, etc? Anything I'm missing?
  2. I am looking for some help here with my truck. Current situation, bought the truck with a no start condition, Discovered Water in the fuel. Drained the lines and put fresh fuel in, started 6-7 times with bad idle then stalled. 8th time started right up drove it around for 30 mins with no codes and prefect idle. Left it idling and went for lunch. Stalled when I was away, could not get it to start. Starting fluid would only keep it going to a few seconds. Then I changed the fuel filter, It Started perfectly for 15 seconds then stalled. It only attempts to start when I leave it alone for a while. Vehicle Details 1998 C3500 DRW 5.7 Vortec 180,000 KM Good condition Repairs, Fuel Pump Fuel Filter No codes. Gift Certificate to the Person Who leads me in the right direction.
  3. alternator reads 13.6 volts charging. Voltage on the dash is 12. As the vehicle runs the voltage drops slowly until 10 volts. Any suggestions to what the issue is? Brand new battery solid ground on it and positive.
  4. Of course my first post would be a trouble shooting question right. So ive got a 97 5.7 vortec, new starter, alternator, fuel pump and filter. a while back i started having issues getting my truck to start if the engine was warm and i had turned it off. usually quick trips to the store were ok but as soon as my engine gets to temperature it wont start. ideas of where to start looking.
  5. Hey guys, I have a 1992 C1500 Pick up 5.7 liter TBI and I was trying to get some information on it that could help with my building it. I always hear people talking about their LT1's and LS1's and so forth... I was just wondering which engine I had. Any responses are appreciated. If its possible I would like to swap out my TBI Intake and PCM with one from a similar year Camaro with the 5.7 Liter engine but I need to do some research to figure out if that's possible and knowing which engine I have will help a ton.
  6. My truck's check engine light came on so i had a local mechanic shot diagnose it. They told be Cylinder #4 was missing a lot and something about that being just at idle rpms. And cylinder #3 was missing a tad to. Anyone have any idea what it could be? valve maybe? idk.. And i already checked basic stuff like plug and wires.. HELP!
  7. Hey everyone, I am having issues with my 92 c1500 5.7l. I made this account because I desperately need help from people who know more about these things than I do. So let's start. The first thing you need to know is that I have a weird truck. Someone who had it before me said they had the CTS (cooling temperature sensor) go bad, and the temperature gauge doesn't work. Their fix for it? They hooked a manual toggle switch up to the ECU so that they can flip the switch on when the engine is cold, dumping more fuel, and flip the switch off when the engine warms up, giving it a leaner air/fuel mixture. I believe the issues I have may have something to do with this. Where the problems start: The truck will idle fine if it is COLD with the toggle switch on, and will idle fine when the engine is at normal temp with the switch off. If it's cool but not cold, it will idle rough (rpms almost die and the jump back up to 1500 then down again) with the switch off, and die with the switch on. I figure this is simply because this switch doesn't give it a healthy air/fuel mixture because it's not adjusted gradually by the computer; instead it's simply rich (on) or lean (off). Next, when I back out of the driveway, it does fine (I slightly ride the clutch out and back out) Then I go to first gear, and let off the clutch slowly, and give it a tiny bit of gas, just like any other manual tranny. Now, if I have a perfect or near perfect launch, no problems occur. But, if I am in a rush, or simply not paying enough attention (I'm rather inexperienced) the truck will buck. Normal right? Well this thing doesn't buck once or twice.. As I continue to accelerate through first, it will buck HARD. enough to make the front end dip like 6 inches repeatedly. If I don't let off the gas, I slow down and it continues to buck even when I'm not on the throttle. If I do let off the gas, it will either clear out and stop, or will keep going. If I turn it off and crank it over again and roll into first, the problem totally clears out. Assuming we have the bucking problem out of the way, I will accelerate up through first. Sometimes this is smooth, sometimes there are dead spots, and sometimes there are lots of dead spots. I shift into second. Sometimes the shift is smooth, sometimes it kind of jerks forward, and sometimes it jerks HARD. I accelerate through second, and this is where the worst dead spots are as far as acceleration. It doesn't act like the gears are slipping or something, but rather like it is having trouble firing properly and is losing power. Once I accelerate past 2.5k or 3k, it runs like a dream. Shift into 3rd, and all problems stop almost 100% of the time. Very rarely it will jerk into third or fourth, but usually these shifts are clean. I figure this is because by now the wheels are moving plenty so that they are enough to keep the engine spinning alone. I will almost guarantee this is NOT a transmission issue. My clutch doesn't smell, it disengages and engages properly, and the tranny NEVER grinds except if I don't go into a different gear before reverse, which I'm told is pretty normal. Another clue that this isn't the transmission is that when it bucks, the higher RPMS that it jumps to are the normal ones, and when the rpms drop, it is due to a loss of power. This I have tested by trying to floor it when I'm bucking, and it really doesn't do anything except kill the sometimes engine and I have to restart it. If it were a tranny problem, it would just go out. Can someone please tell me what's going on here? Is the toggle switch the cause of this? Bad TPS? Something else? All three? I'm happy to provide pictures, videos, or further explanation for anyone who wants to take this problem on with me. Thanks so much in advance. Also, I will include a video with this post as soon as it uploads to youtube. EDIT: I should probably include that it NEVER backfires. If I'm in neutral and the truck is warm, the engine sounds VERY strong and does not have any problem picking up RPMs when revving. It sounds like a beast, and when it's warm it rarely misses in idle. Video: Skip to 4:30 to see it buck hard in first gear.
  8. I recently replaced the cap, rotor, spark plugs, and crankshaft position sensor on my 1999 tahoe (police) and it runs great! But... when I'm driving up slight inclines giving it about 1/4 to 1/3 acceleration, it starts to misfire and run really rough. It goes away immediately if i gas it and it downshifts,or if i let off the gas a little.. does anybody have any advice on how to fix it? Its a 5.7 4x4. I didn't reset any codes or anything when i changed the crank position sensor and i don't have any check engine lighht on (even when it misfires).
  9. Hey guys back from appendix surgery and well came across a new project truck, its a 2000 escalade, the previous owner decided to do a rering rebuild from summit. well needless to say he put it back in and NO go. so i picked it up off him for a small fee. so im pulling the 5.7L(vortec) and am gonna have a friend from the machine shop go thru it and inspect the work and make sure it was put together right. but while its apart i was wondering, timing chain wasnt changed but wanting to possibly put a timing gear set or a double or single roller(which one can work and where can i find it?summit search engine sucks). also it has an upgraded spider injector set and supposably was an upgraded (sfi to mfi) but i dont want to changed the complete fuel injection system want all the computers to work like they did off the line, but wanna make alittle power since im gonna have the engine apart. please can someone help. thanks
  10. I have a 1989 k2500 5.7 tbi with 171,xxx miles on it. I've had no issues with it until a month ago when the engine is under load it cuts out, as soon as I let off it back fires and everything is normal. I've replaced cap and rotor, plugs and wires, coil, egr valve and solenoid, map sensor, tps and fuel filter trying to track down the culprit. Ran the codes, it came back with code 34 map sensor. Unsure why, cleared the codes and it throws it again. The truck idles just fine just won't drive well. I should probably also include that the truck has no cat anymore and is 3" straight pipped back to a flowmaster. Unsure if that will make any difference with help as it had had this set up for over a year prior to any issues. Please help, I'm not used to these tbi systems but more familiar with old school engines that only need suck, blow, bang to run correct.
  11. Hi maybe someone can help me with my engine swap issues ! I have a Silverado Sportside pickup from 1989 with a 4.3 Liter V6 engine. I have now removed the 4.3 L engine and fixed up the engine room with new paint and wiring and so on..... and i am about to put in a 5.7 L V8 from 1989 to get better perfomance. My Question is: On the torque convertor it is a label with: 8653702 on. Must i change convertor for the new engine (5.7 L), and if so are there anything else i must change ? If so what convertor number is for 5.7 L V8 engine (Gasolin) Best Regars from Finland Patrik

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.