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Drives

  1. TIA for your help and time… BLUF: Ticking noise under truck, not heard from top of engine compartment. I noticed a ticking/clicking/pinging noise under my truck today, took a video, hopefully you can hear it. Anyone else? Truck was in Park and Neutral (Parking brake engaged) and still heard the sounds.
  2. Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r.
  3. Anyone else experiencing a hard shift or hesitation of the engine when you first hit the gas. For example, I start the truck, reverse out of the driveway, put the car in drive and when I hit the gas, the truck goes toward and then i feel the truck completely stop for a second (hesitation) and then it continues forward, I only expierence this when I’m going from reverse to forward. I come to a complete stop and do not shift to drive when moving backwards still. ?
  4. Just changed the oil on my 2014 gmc sierra 4.3l. It required six quarts of oil which is what i used but now i am afraid if its overfilled or not. Its a completely different reading than what it was before the oil change. Althought its not above the hashmarks there are 2 dots on there which I’m not sure if those are the oil level indicators or the hashmarks are the oil level indicators. The dots are kinda hidden which is why I’m not sure if those even are oil indicators dots. Im really hoping i filled it up correctly and wont ruin the engine by overfilling the oil. I installed a fumoto valve so it could be easier to drain excess oil. I do note there was a metallic ticking noise that was present before the oil change but disappeared afterwards. following picture (2) is before the oil change one of each side of the dipstick The next two fuller looking ones are after the oil change one for each side of the dipstick
  5. Hey there I have a 2015 1500 5.3L LTZ Silverado 4WD (midnight edition) Anyway I was doing highway miles and got a console alert that oil level was low. Stopped at the auto parts store, added one quart, saw level was still low.. so I added a second quart which filled it up. I climbed under the engine in the parking lot, and took a peek at the oil pan. I noticed the gasket was all mushroomed out and there was oil pretty much caked everywhere lower than that seal. I took it to the dealership to get it repaired and the service manager told me the strangest stories. He said 1) the lower oil pan is one time use 2) the lower oil pan gasket is RTV 3) the upper oil pan gasket was also leaking 4) the crimp in the oil cooler line was leaking (didn't realize my engine even had an oil cooler!? Why would a light duty truck have this equipped?) He quoted $2000 for everything including 10% sales tax. Does this raise the alarm for anyone else here? I only saw oil from the lower gasket downward. The parts on rock auto are about $70. I think I'll have to do this one myself but would love some thoughts. Thanks in advance.
  6. "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK" Has anyone ever came across this before? Let me start from the beginning. On 11/2932013, halfway on my drive from work to home, I noticed that my truck would "sputter" and the rpm would fluctuate when giving it some gas while going up a hill/incline (interstate). Once I was done with the hill/incline, everything would smooth out. Closer to home, once again, I would only notice the "sputter-like" reaction and rpm fluctuating slightly when giving it gas to climb a hill/incline. Made it home fine with no problems or warnings/lights. Upon embarking to work the next morning (11/30/2013), at approximately 5-6 miles from home, I went to give the truck some gas to get above 60 and all of a sudden all these warnings and dings starting going off. My engine warning light illuminated and my traction control light came on and I noticed some warnings scrolling through at the bottom saying: "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK". it blew my mind! Meanwhile, I noticed my truck slowing down no matter how much gas I gave it. I was coming to a road intersection just ahead and preceded to turn around and pull over to investigate. I couldn't understand what was going on so since I was close to home, I just "limped" it back home and not getting over 40-45 mph. Got home and shut engine off and called my job. I went back out later before my ride got there to pick me up, and started my truck. It started fine and I didn't notice any "sputtering" like before, however the engine light is still illuminated. I can't do anything until this Wednesday anyway. Is there someone that has come across this before? The day it happened I Google'd to my heart's content and found that I am not alone, however I did notice that there can be a number of things that could cause this. Would any of this be covered under a warranty? How would I know if I still have warranty on my truck? I need some expert advice on this. Here is my truck info to the best of my knowledge: 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Taupe Gray 5.3 L V8 Crew Cab Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, R. Ashley
  7. Hi all. My son has a 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 6.0. we are wondering can we use a engine wiring harness for a 5.3? Also what year range can we use.
  8. Hello all. I have a 2013 silverado w/5.3l flex vin 7. Basically has rough idle in park and drive. Very poor acceleration. Almost seems to bog down when trying to accelerate. It will occasionally surge and for just a split second I can feel a bit of power. Also doesn't want to downshift when I lean on the gas pretty heavy. I've got to do near floor it to get it to down ****** and when it does it will drop down 2 gears a lot of the time. No engine light and it won't set any codes. Showed 0 misfires on all cylinders. Long Fuel trims usually in single digits negs. Fuel pressure 43-46psi at idle and highway. I've replaced throttle position sensor, Accelerator pedal position sensor, manifold pressure sensor, mass air sensor, plugs, coolant temp sensor, oxygen sensors. Fuel pump, intake manifold gaskets twice (now with "updated" steel gaskets), throttle body gasket/seal, injector o-rings (upper and lower). Tested all coils for strong spark. Smoke tested for vac leaks along with propane. It has never failed to start or even had a long start and has never died/stalled. I'm just kinda at a loss at this point. Any help will be appreciated and possibly considered. Thanks
  9. Just picked up my new 14 last Friday (5 days ago) and have had multiple occurrences where the truck will not start. The typical scenario has been like this: 1. Attempt remote start either by key fob or the OnStar remote link app. If using the key fob, the parking lights flash to indicate that the remote start request was received but the truck does not start. If using the OnStar app, I receive an error message that the truck could not be started. 2. Attempt to start the truck using the key and...click.click. 3. Get out of truck, throw something, say a few four letter words 4. Try again with the key and it magically starts. The new software was loaded in the truck as I was in the process of negotiation during the recall and had to wait for the update to come out before the dealer could deliver. I went straight to the dealer yesterday morning after this happened and they have no explanation to what the cause is. They reprogrammed the keys/fobs. I also was carrying my 2nd set of keys in the console, which they suggested could be the cause of the problem?? So I took the spare set of keys out of the truck and crossed my fingers. No such luck however as it happened again this morning. Anybody else experiencing anything like this?
  10. Anyone else have multiple issue regarding the lifters? I purchased a demo truck with 3900 miles on it back in early May. Started having engine issues almost immediately and had gotten all my lifters replaced recently, with under 7,000 miles on the truck. Spent almost a month at the dealer and finally got it back. They replaced all the lifters the first time and then a few weeks later it started having issues again. Luckily with the market conditions today I was able to trade out and get a newer one but I gotta admit I'm concerned. Anyone else dealing with this issue repeatedly?
  11. Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
  12. I have a 1993 GMC C3500 7.4L manual trans with running issues. When the engine is cold the truck has a rough idle and revs up and down. When the truck has warmed up it idles fine just a little low around 350 RPM. When in the driveway it revs to redline fine with no issue. Once the trans is put into gear, the engine will idle fine but as RPMs approach 1000 the engine starts to stumble, loose power, and begins to pop through the exhaust. Parts I have replaced: distributor ( came with new cap, rotor, and ICM) fuel filter fuel pump strainer IAC valve MAP sensor temperature sender fuel injectors spark plugs ignition coil ECM TPS sensor throttle body rebuilt and new fuel pressure regulator diaphragm installed fuel pump (the first fuel pump was one for a 1993, the second was one for a 1995) After installing the second fuel pump the engine runs smoother but still stumbles during acceleration. When the distributor was changed, engine was timed to 4 degrees BTC. I disconnected the timing connector and the engine runs better but still has a little stumble and lacks power when driving. If anyone can give me some ideas or things to check out it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance! I have retired the engine to make sure that it is at 4° BTDC....haven't drove it yet but will give an update once I do.
  13. I have a 2016 Chevy Tahoe 105,000 miles. Twice last week a few days apart my check engine light began flashing about 15-20 minutes into my commute and turned off within about 1-2 minutes both times. My spark plugs were replaced at 97,576 miles last October at the dealership and the coils, boots, etc, were inspected . I’ve been told that putting a tank of high quality supreme grade gas could help the problem. Has anyone else had this issue?
  14. Hey everyone, Running into an issue with my truck and I want to see if anyone can give me some insight. 2017-6.2l-4wd Truck drives normal in drive. Throttle response is good, gets up and goes, But, If I put it in park and try to rev it, it will runaway all the way to limiter and slowly creep back down. I will try to post a video a little later if needed, but I wanted to see if anyone has had this issue. It will also do it in neutral, but does not in drive. As well, I do not have a throttle response enhancer installed. Things on the truck: UPR Catch Can Kit American Racing Headers CAI Brand Cold air intake MBRP Exhaust Things I have tried/done (some are unrelated to this issue): Throttle Body replacement MAF Replacement Harness + Throttle body Check-over Pedal Wiring check-over Tune Checked by Tuner- We even put it back to OEM tune to see if anything changed Check for engine codes Check for irregular Vacuum amount. I wasn't entirely sure what the normal vacuum amount should be, but it "looked" okay. Overall the truck is pretty clean in the sense of being able to "see" anything wrong.
  15. My 2016 Sierra 2500HD has 176,000 miles on it already and recently started eating parts. The latest part to fail was the reductant tank heater (DEF Heater). Upon cold start the check engine light came on with code P21DD. After a little reading I learned that this can result in “Limp Mode”. I was in the middle of nowhere in Northern Wyoming. Not cool! I drove down to Denver and replaced it that week. I shot this video of the repair.....
  16. At 1800 miles I noticed that my truck started or has been making this really annoying, high pitched squeak every time it switches from V4 to V8 on the highway. It almost sounds like a valve opens up when the cylinders reactivate and is driving me nuts!! I don't hear anything when it goes from V8 to V4. Unfortunately, I don't get to enjoy the "quiet cabin" GM advertised because of the squeaking. Has anyone else experienced this issue? I have the 5.3L V8 in a 2015 LT Crew Cab short box Z71
  17. My truck has 131K miles on it. After an oil change by the dealership. I started the truck the next day and noticed a very loud squeal from the engine. It goes away after about 20 secs. But if i drive and give it a good acceleration, you hear the squeal around 3500 to 4500 RMP. Movie 3_2.mp4
  18. Enjoy! Here's a copy of the 2007-2009 GM/GMC factory service manual for trucks. It covers trouble shooting and advice on what and how to repair/rebuild everything with torque specs. 4.3L engine to 6.6L trucks with everything form bumper to bumper... https://www.dropbox.com/s/rflvemxjpqfc4h4/Gmc_Sierra_Service_Manual_Repair_Manual_Fsm_2007-2009_Download.zip?dl=0
  19. I have had this problem for quite some time. I've been trying to narrow it down one test and one part at a time with no luck. It will occasionally drive great with no problems but other times it surges while accelerating and driving down the road. I've had the timing checked, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the wires a while back, replaced the EGR valve, and replaced the cap and rotor. The truck will idle fine except for the occasional rough idle in gear during the times the truck is running badly. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
  20. While driving my 2014 Silverado, I never have a problem if I accelerate quickly. However, there has been skipping/sputtering when I coast or slowly accelerate. This is not a clicking, loud knocking sound like I see most describe on here... Anyone have any idea what it could be? Thanks in advance! If needed I can try and video the sound later on today.
  21. Currently working on a 6.0L V8 (2000 LQ9 I believe) and cannot seem to locate the PCV valve and hose (see image for reference). I was under the impression that they weren’t integrated into the valve cover until around 2005. The body of this truck is a 2000 Sierra 1500 but the engine was replaced from the 4.8 to the 6.0 at some point so I’m guessing for a lot of the component locations. First time poster, any helps appreciated.
  22. I'm trying to update an old 51 pickup that hasn't run in years. What's the most affordable way to put a newer engine in it? I was thinking something like a small block, but I'm out of my depth. The end goal is a dessert runner, mild offroad capability.
  23. On Sunday March 8th I was driving my Sierra home from my parents-in law. I pulled out from a stop sign and was just getting up to speed when there was a loud bang followed by loss of power, Loud ticking noise, vibrations and a sulfur smell coming from the exhaust. I knew this was lifters instantly as it Happened to me in August of 2018, a short 11,000 miles ago. So, I took it in to my dealer who ran diagnostics and gave me the news That I would need lifters replaced yet again. Unfortunately, my power train warranty ran out December of 2019, so they told me I would owe a balance of $2900+ tax. Of course I was very upset with this news as I would have imagined the dealer would talk to GM and get this issue sorted out.. I mean it was only a few months over a year and less than 11,000 miles since they replacedall of the lifters and the cam shaft. I contacted GM myself and over the course of the last week have been working with the dealer and trying to talk to someone at GM who could help. Finally I reached a “senior analyst” who is apparently the top tier of customer assistance and she told me there was absolutely nothing they can do and I am responsible for the entire bill. I insisted that GM must know about the issues this engine has By now and should acknowledge and help their clients, but she offered no help. How can I trust this engine again? I have read many posts people have put on this forum alone with this issue of failing lifters. How can anyone be expected to pay this much for an issue that is derived likely from GMs design of the afm system? Especially after we pay $50,000+ for the truck to begin with! I do not pretend to be an Mechanical or financial expert, but I feel I have been severely wronged in this situation. I have no choice but to eat this cost and sell the truck before the lifters have a chance to fail again. I would suggest anyone doing research considering buying one of these trucks (I believe Sierra and Silverado 14-18 at least) that has the active fuel management system to rethink it. I would also go out on a limb and suggest my friends with 14-15 year Silverado and Sierras (with expired powertrain warranty’s) to consider selling them before the lifters fail on yours and you are stuck with a $3000-$5000 bill. Good luck all.
  24. Hi, I'm pretty new to this website. Came across it when I was looking for an answer to my problem . . . I don't know too much about trucks.. cars....4 wheel vehicles. I just bought this 06 crew cab 1500 silverado 4.3L had about 80k miles on it. I actually noticed the sound when I was test driving it from the dealer. Now it has about 101k miles and noise is still the same. it makes a rattling noise, almost like a metal noise at LOW rpms only. Doesn't matter if its 35 or 75mph. Have to be cruising like slight amount of acceleration. Sounds like its coming from the engine.. I checked a bunch of forums all saying different things. my truck is stock, as far as i know.. one of the forums mentioned it could bea bad alternator, but I have no clue. any help? Sorry I'm a complete noob. Ivy
  25. I have a 1999 s10 blazer with a 4.3 motor i'm putting in a 2002 4.3 motor and the crank sensor whole is different what can i do? Are there any other differences i know about as well?
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