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Drives

Found 14 results

  1. First post, been a lurker for 3 yrs...2017 High Country w/ 101K. Lost 6,7,8, gears and truck wont shift past 5th at all. Similar symptoms to others, hard hesitation then super high RPMs (low gear limp mode). Dealer inspects and says fluid is so gummed up the valve body, solenoids and some other sh*t is "stuck" and there is metal everywhere. Yep, had the torque converter issue at 30K, with dealer flush. $5K for a new trans with a better warranty than the stock, 3yr/100K...wtf. Apparently any "updates" GM has made will be in this shiny turd of a sh*t show. Anyway...after
  2. Hey y’all, this is my second post on this forum. I just picked up a 2000 Chevy. 5.3 4l60e (I know shocking) and the guy claimed to have put a rebuilt trans in the truck, well then he claimed it was the second one he put in, in just a couple months. My guess is bad mechanic. Anyways. The trans shifts fine when it’s cold. All gears work perfect (which is when I test drove it) well when the truck warms up (roughly 150-190 when it starts) the trans slips in all gears, UNLESS it’s between 2500-3700 rpm. It grabs good then. I noticed it because I’ll start going from a red light, it’ll slip a bit and
  3. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 4x4 5.3l V8 with the 8 speed transmission. I already flushed out my transmission and filled it back up with the Mobil 1™ Synthetic LV ATF HP blue label. The question is, do i also use the HP fluid for my transfer case? Or do i need to use just a standard ATF fluid instead. I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. The owners manual states to use DEXRON®-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid. Would using regular ATF in the transfer case and HP ATF in the transmission cause any issues? Thanks in advance!
  4. 2016 Silverado 1500 5.3L 6-speed RWD. 106K miles. Note: this is a possible root cause based on my towing 300+ every couple of weeks, in addition to heavy cargo. Also, my driving habits may have been on the lugging side. Bought used at 33k, first 30k modest work driving (tolerable cargo, 70-30 highway-city). Symptoms: (After trouble-shooting a poorly mounted injector pump-another post on that) if rpms were below 2500 and I was giving slight more throttle, tach would bounce 100-200 and I could feel a shudder (couple of times heard a grinding/clicking). Never got a code-took to dealership bu
  5. Hello im new to this forum. I have been searching for silimar sounds my truck is making on here but i can't seem to find one. So my truck is a 2020 silverado rst 5.3 8 speed crewcab 4x4 and has 1,600 miles. It makes this clicking sound similar to a clock. I went underneath the truck to listen for the sound and it appears to be coming from transmission area. Any thoughts of what the sound is? Ill attach a sound clip. Its a cold start but it also does it when its warmed up. 20201103_053649_2_1.mp4
  6. I have a 2003 Chevy 2500hd 6.6l diesel. All gears and shifting were working fine. Pulled out on highway today and had to get on it. When going through gears I heard it slip up and rev as if it slipped out of gear. I slowed down and got off road. It seemed to be stuck in 3rd gear. I tried putting it into reverse and it would not work. The shifter doesn’t even feel like it’s moving into gear when I move into reverse. When I move shifter to Drive, it sounds very rough and it starts off in 3rd gear. The truck will not shift out of this stuck gear, not even go into reverse. Had to put home slowly i
  7. I currently have a 2017 Silverado LTZ with 8 speed transmission thats lifted 4" with 35" tires. The truck is currently at 39K mileage and I was looking into upgrading my transmission cooling to take the wear off my transmission by allowing it to run cooler. My thought was to run a mishimoto transmission cooler, B&M transmission pan along with running the Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP to avoid the possible shudder everyone is having with there transmission. Couple of concerns that I have is doing that will increase my fluid capacity which I have no way of checking the correct leve
  8. Hello all, I am having a bit of trouble with my truck when under light throttle. Between 1000-1700rpm when driving with no load my 5.3L starts to surge about 50rpm with a increase in felt power when it happens. I am also hearing a vibration or light grinding sound. From my reading I’m thinking this could be a torque converter issue maybe the shift solenoid. When the truck is in tow mode I don’t notice the issue but if I leave grade braking on when the truck downshifts it does not feel normal or what I’m used to when I tow. It’s somewhat harsher. Thank you all for your time I sure appreciate ev
  9. So I have 1997 suburban 1500 2wd 5.7l went to install a train nor the other day didn't get around to it I might add. Had battery disconnected for a bit. Next day it started out driving fine. Felt a wierd flutter going down the highway. Stopped at the store and could barely reverse took basically sitting on the pedal keeping rpm a little over 1200. Went in to drive just fine. By the next stoplight take off felt sluggish. Now it will barely get to moving at all. Electrical issue or what???? RpMs solid at idle around 650, doesn't have the mysterious rough idle or anything like that chased that's
  10. I have not seen a whole lot posted on this and tried to search first. Recently I started noticing a rough shift pattern. I can't tell if its 2-3, 3-4 or 3-4,4-5. It is under light acceleration and been a bit colder. It seems to lurch when making those two shifts. I need to do some driving to test further to see if it progresses through the rest of the shifts or clears up after warmed up. Curious if anyone else has run into this and if there are any troubleshooting steps I can do without any special tools/scanners. I am due for a scheduled visit to the dealer and will have the
  11. Hey guys and gals I was hoping y’all could answer a question of mine. I currently own a 2019 Silverado trail boss with the 5.3 and 6 speed transmission. A mechanic told me the transmission is a ticking time bomb if I do any performance mods. Such as a cam swap and tune. So I explained my plan for the future. Cold air intake, flow master exhaust, headers, tune and cam swap. He said if I do any of the big changes to the engine the tranny may go out. The reason why is because the stock transmission was only made to handle the stock HP and TQ. Have any of y’all had an issue like this after some bi
  12. I have a 92 chevy 1500 recently my t case went out so I took it out and it turns out that the back of the tailshaft housing is broke, I was wondering if that is a removable tailhousing or if I need to get a whole tranny
  13. Okay, I believe I am starting to get the dreaded shudder. Long story short, I am getting a shudder from 68mph-90mph ONLY under throttle, smooth as silk when letting off the throttle. Truck is a 2018 Sierra SLT CCSB 6.2 8 speed with 4,058 miles. Only Mods (that might have a remote chance of changing the stock characteristics) done are 2.25 level, 275/60R20 BFG K02 tires, Borla ATAK Cat-back, Denali cluster (don't see how but figured I'd list it), RXP dual catch can, Range AFM disable and Pedal Commander (set at Sport+1). I want to get OPINIONS on a course of action. I am considering foregoing t
  14. I have a nasty click in my 2008 sierra 2500, it is the GM 6 speed on a gas truck, this noise only occurs when I put the truck in drive or reverse, and its when the tension hits the driveline, no problems with drivability or clunking during acceleration/deceleration. The truck has 120,000 miles on it I did change the u joints with moog HD versions and this did not solve the problem it sounds like it is coming from the area of the transfer case but its hard to tell being as that the sound travels throughout the driveline. the truck is also throwing A code for transmission pressure sensor code an
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