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Showing results for tags '4X4'.
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I just purchased a Readylift sst 2” lift for my trail boss and then came across forums about the cv angle this particular kit causes. I want to know if the kit in the link below will work to drop the diff enough to correct the bad angles, or if anyone has a link to a different kit! Thanks in advance! https://www.ebay.com/itm/283619576133?hash=item42090b4945%3Ag%3ABYQAAOSw4Rdj0nLM&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAJGUZfoNyzgvlZe3ei30yhZXR27Wi9kfz7BB%2B6nWsgr0NpRdhPXlwl6SI8KTdrclCHdN2a7zGMK9FtXzzPUbYZzMdTMQL3loBX19toU3jhRcuUepMpb3OeMVkcNT2OE6T7joTVf2riRKkip6M4EtK1%2F7qgQGtC9W%2F72v7Bpc8RiHD1WtGmqFACROHepH6zRqgnV%2Bfs%2FtvaVd4VH0PHlCZhr%2FsqEw8xZaYvCqegf1ptZ66hhSXqrEfVr2R9jNVqI64NoIED5kmdHaVC%2FR2v0iXmhomqAMUbGUtkMjGtmCXjGtmgO74%2B9dGCHRx%2F%2BKk0PRSVgYrd5edQGZVHPxby9lZHo%3D|tkp%3ABFBMyOeFt_5h&fits=Submodel%3ALT+Trail+Boss|Year%3A2020|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A5.3L|Model%3ASilverado+1500|Make%3AChevrolet|Trim%3ALT+Trail+Boss+Crew+Cab+Pickup+4-Door|Engine%3A5.3L+5328CC+325Cu.+In.+V8+GAS+OHV+Naturally+Aspirated
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Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time. -
Hello, I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 4X4, 110,000 miles, was driving down the road and suddenly stopped moving, truck still on but won't move. Goes into drive and reverse but wont move. No check engine light, transmission fluid full, and clean, no crazy noises. Any clue what it could be? I have been told the linkage, or the transmission pump... Any advice is appreciated. -
I have a 5.3 with the 6L80 in it and was hoping to swap over to a 6.2 but i can’t find much online about what i will need to replace, anything would help. I know i’ll need a new ECM and possibly a new flex plate but besides that i’m not sure. Thanks in advance!
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Hey Everybody. I’m about to have my 2014 Silverado AFM deleted with stage 3 cam upgrade, longtube headers, l86 intake, l86 TB, 3200 stall, custom tune. My question- is their other things I must do to go with these upgrades? Truck is 4x4 but will soon be lowered. Driveshaft? New Trans cooler? Bigger oil pump? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
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I have a 2007 1500 crew cab classic that I've done more restoration and customization to than I really would like to admit especially with guys that truely understand these trucks. I went way to far because I needed a truck to haul more than mine should have done and refused to get rid of it. All that being said, my frame is rusted to the point that repairs are no longer going to cut it. I've replaced 1 cross member, boxed in the back half with 10 gauge steel, added braces but now the cross member above back tank strap is rusted off drivers side as well as the large one under rear of the cab and it's trying to fold on me. I've replaced all bushings on control arms, tierod holes modified to accept hd tierods, new CV axles, front diff gas new outter bearings and seals, new ujoints in front and rear shafts with the rear being a steel shaft that is rebalanced. freshly build transfer case with pump guard, transmission has an upgraded trailblazer 2400 Stall converter so about 2700 in the heavier truck, input shaft for a 4l65e, redline wide bands, Corvette servo, 9 plate clutches and hd bearings. the rear diff is a Yukon duragrip, swapped from 3.42 to 3.73, 4 wheel disk with drilled and slotted, gutted the cats with a 3" stainless mbrp installers choice cat back single exhaust, ho premium tune. I also installed a 5000lb load/lift airbag system with pump and tank behind the rear seat and guage/controller in the dash. body is completely redone after being tore down to the driveline and cab bring only thing left on the frame so I was already half way there 3 years ago. The big question is what year frames can I use frame wise. what will be the cheapest option in everyone's opinion? living in northern Michigan, finding a used one local is kinda dumb in my opinion because you're going to be blasting a ton of rust off at 5he least so why go through the work of swapping with another. one that is already half way gone. will either be driving to get one or having shipped. somewhere between me and Arkansas would be best as I have a friend that makes that trip several times a year. of course money is tight especially with this hog costing me 51¢ a mile in just fuel the last couple weeks. I'm seriously leaning towards wanting to do a swap with a frame that has the harness attached still. I'm having electrical issues from hell to boot. gas gauge hasn't worked since 2018 when I got it and I've tried everything shy of ecm(I did try bcm and tcm), I've got a bad wire somewhere in harness for bank one and also to the tps. I play with those. wiring harnesses if it starts to run bad and it smooths right out but have no clue which wire is to be the culprit and pinpoint the break inside the sheathing. the biggest ****** there is 07 classic is a complete Frankenstein from the factory. the engine is flex fuel capable but no active fuel management which all the fuel components are the same as 08. the oil filter is ordered by 08 to make sure I get the right one. suspension parts I just say 06 on. half the all cab wiring is ob's so I don't know how this all plays out harness wise. I parked it under a big tree Thursday that had a ton of very large dead libs during a severe windstorm and nothing but a nice live tree did fall right where I had it parked prior and no I can't make this ****** up. I'm over insured and was hoping for a little help with my decision on this thing. sorry for the rambling guys, just wanted all factors to be known when advise given
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My Silverado is having issues with the 4x4. It does Engage but it struggles. When I set the 4h it kinds of drags like something is holding it back and it makes a weird sound coming from the front end. If I set it to 4l it really doesn’t want to move. I have to give it a nice amount of gas for it to go but is feels like something is holding the truck from moving. I’m looking for ideas to pin point the issue. Thank you
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Anyone know what this noise is? It's very intermittent. Seems to do it most often between 40 and 50 MPH cruising with maybe a slight up hill. Never does it on coast or heavy acceleration. Very hard to tell where it's coming from. 20190521_191545_001.mp4 2014 Sierra Denali 1500 Crewcab, 5'8" bed 6.2 Litter 3.42 axle ratio about 118,000 miles- 5 replies
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Here’s my Walter.
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Hello im new to this forum. I have been searching for silimar sounds my truck is making on here but i can't seem to find one. So my truck is a 2020 silverado rst 5.3 8 speed crewcab 4x4 and has 1,600 miles. It makes this clicking sound similar to a clock. I went underneath the truck to listen for the sound and it appears to be coming from transmission area. Any thoughts of what the sound is? Ill attach a sound clip. Its a cold start but it also does it when its warmed up. 20201103_053649_2_1.mp4 -
"ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK" Has anyone ever came across this before? Let me start from the beginning. On 11/2932013, halfway on my drive from work to home, I noticed that my truck would "sputter" and the rpm would fluctuate when giving it some gas while going up a hill/incline (interstate). Once I was done with the hill/incline, everything would smooth out. Closer to home, once again, I would only notice the "sputter-like" reaction and rpm fluctuating slightly when giving it gas to climb a hill/incline. Made it home fine with no problems or warnings/lights. Upon embarking to work the next morning (11/30/2013), at approximately 5-6 miles from home, I went to give the truck some gas to get above 60 and all of a sudden all these warnings and dings starting going off. My engine warning light illuminated and my traction control light came on and I noticed some warnings scrolling through at the bottom saying: "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK". it blew my mind! Meanwhile, I noticed my truck slowing down no matter how much gas I gave it. I was coming to a road intersection just ahead and preceded to turn around and pull over to investigate. I couldn't understand what was going on so since I was close to home, I just "limped" it back home and not getting over 40-45 mph. Got home and shut engine off and called my job. I went back out later before my ride got there to pick me up, and started my truck. It started fine and I didn't notice any "sputtering" like before, however the engine light is still illuminated. I can't do anything until this Wednesday anyway. Is there someone that has come across this before? The day it happened I Google'd to my heart's content and found that I am not alone, however I did notice that there can be a number of things that could cause this. Would any of this be covered under a warranty? How would I know if I still have warranty on my truck? I need some expert advice on this. Here is my truck info to the best of my knowledge: 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Taupe Gray 5.3 L V8 Crew Cab Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, R. Ashley -
Anyone hve information on lifting a sonoma 4x4, there isn't many options out there and i don't want to Fab it? i'm looking for more clearance to enjoy the 4 wheel drive without loosing the ride integrity if possible
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Hello, I’m thinking about putting a six inch lift from superlift on my 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4wd, extended cab. My question today is what would be the recommended wheel size (both tire and rim) for this setup and I’d like it to preferably stick out on the side a bit but it’s not needed. I know many run 35” but again I’m not sure.
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Hello, for the past two years my truck (2015 Sierra 1500 All Terrain) has been intermittently flashing service lights saying the to service ABS, to service stabillitrac, and to service parking sensors. This would happen a few times a month and would immediately go away and I would think that it was just an annoying bug. But since about a month ago, when making low speed left turns, as well as any size bump, caused it to happen. This worsens into ABS light and stabillitrac light on for one day. While this happened you could feel the ABS pumping at when braking normally. This too went away the next day. I took the truck to the dealer for a diagnostic and told them all of this as well. After the $190 diagnosis they said it was the following codes (attached photo) C0035-04, C0040-04, and C0035-0F. they told me both front hubs were bad and needed replacement. They wanted $1800 for parts and labor. I told them thank you and paid the diagnosis and took the truck home. After the dealer the trucks electronics and 10x worse. Now the ABS and Stabillitrac lights stay on permanently, the brake light dings and flashes with any turn of the steering wheel. Also getting constant service ABS, service trailer brakes, Service stabillitrac, and reduced steering assist. I bought both front hubs and wheel speed sensors. I installed them and torqued everything back to spec. After reconnecting the battery and taking a test drive nothing had changed. I took the top panel from the dash off and did the ground mods. Again, no change. I’m going crazy trying to find the problem. I the. Took the truck to autozone for a code read. It still says the same three codes and it did, even after replacing the parts and sensors the dealer said would work. If anyone knows what the cause is it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Dave
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Hello guys & lady mechanics, I’m in the process of replacing my rear disc brakes, it has 4Wheel anti loc disc brakes. I have the rear rotors with the interior surface for the parking brake shoes. I have new rear backing plates and hardware. But I noticed a little bit of a runout in the axles, I’m assuming it’s normal bearing wear. It has 175,000 miles on it. Plus the brake lines rusted and caused a pedal to the floor issue for me, so I replaced every single brake line with all new stainless steel lines, and new brake hoses. It has new rotors and pads upfront. What I’m trying to find out, since it’s a 14 Bolt GM differential in the rear, what exactly do I have??? 1) Is it a 9 1/2 inch ring gear, 14 bolt rear end, or is it a 10 1/2 inch ring gear 14 bolt rear end? Where can I find this out. I need to order bearings and seals, and a pinion seal which is leaking. which is my next question, 2) how do I determine what size my pinion seal is before I order one? O’Reilly shows 8 options 3) Last question is, I’m assuming I’m going to have to pull the cover, remove the locking pin for the limited slip differential, and push the axle in, pull the retaining clip, and pull the entire axle out to get to the seals and bearings, correct? My plan is to put a new B&M aluminum differential cover and fresh fluid once this is all done… Lastly I wish I would’ve found this side or search prior to doing my brakes, I would’ve found out that GM was offering half off To replace all new brake lines for $500. It’s done now though. Happy holidays you’ll Dave
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Hello, I just signed up to get some help with my work truck. It's a 2005 Silverado 2500HD base model with the 6.0L auto and manual transfer case and has 280,000 kms. The issue I'm having is with the front axle actuator staying locked even with the transfer case in 2wd. I've had this issue for about a month now and previous google searches suggested that the actuator on the front axle might be the culprit so just today I tried replacing the actuator but that did not fix the problem. If I shift the transfer case into 4H and then back to 2H the dash light will go out briefly for a few seconds but then comes on again. Is there a sensor or switch on or inside the transfer case that might have gone bad? Is there a way to test the wiring from the transfer case to the axle actuator? I did notice a wiring plug near the linkage on the transfer case and I pulled it to check for corrosion or water or anything but it was clean and looked fine, I put in some dielectric grease and plugged it back in. The wiring plug into the axle actuator was clean and dry as well. I'm kind of out of ideas now and am hoping someone here may have had the same issue and knows of a fix. TIA
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Hey everyone, I recently purchased a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500. It’s a 4x4 Denali with the 6.2L and ultimate package. Overall it’s everything I’ve ever wanted in a truck and more. I live and work in South Carolina, but I’m originally from Upper Michigan (Yooper, eh). Husband to an amazing wife and father to two busy boys. I joined the forum to get some insight into maintaining my truck as well as some tips for upgrading smaller items.
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Hello so I have a 14 Sierra 1500 sle 4x4 i was towing my 16ft flatbed trailer and using the 4hi mode and I back the trailer up and turned it off with the 4 on. I turn it in and the service 4wd shows up. I said huh weird and pulled the truck out. I tried to turn it back to 2wd and it won’t change. The light doesn’t turn on for 2 hi, auto or 4low. I know that it’s in 4hi bc when I turn it hops. Had to drive with the 16ft for about 30mins on 4hi
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Welcome to my build! Started with a 2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ 4wd 5.3L, which I bought with 9k miles on her in August of 2020. Got a crazy good deal on it, justified me driving to Georgia from Houston to pick it up. It even came with the Ranch Hand front bumper on it already, other than that she was stock. Little bit of background on my past trucks, I've been fortunate to own quite a few: 07 JK Wrangler, 08 Silverado 1500 LT Z71, 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71, 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT w/ 6.2L, 2016 Denali 2500 Duramax, 2017 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, and finally my 2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71. I also have my 2015 ZL1 Camaro for a little bit of fun on the side, my wife has gone off to German side and is rocking her Porsche Cayenne. So here's the current list of mods: 4" Zone Lift kit w/ Fox rear shocks 35x11.50's Nitto Terra Grapplers on stock 20's Front and back Ranch Hand bumpers Hooker Blackheart Cat-back exhaust utilizing factory dual tips K&N Series 63 cold air intake Rough Country Automatic drop down steps Camlocker Tool box Front windows tinted to match back factory tint Front windshield tint strip Chevy All-Weather floor liners Stubby antenna Just went on a shopping spree of sorts and this is what I've got on order: Boost auto parts auto fog mod Putco Blade LED Tailgate Light Bar w/ Putco wiring harness All LED bulbs; replacing turn signals, license plate lights, and reverse lights. And the GRAND finale, King 2.5 PRS coilovers The list of things to come in the near future: High Country cluster from White Audio and Media, had their Tahoe cluster in my 2017 and it was fantastic! Waiting to order the rear King Resi PRS shocks until my checkbook bounces back a little bit. Lol Going to be putting on several LED light bars and maybe a pod or two, going to do my best to blend them into the Ranch Hands and make them as non conspicuous as possible. I'm strongly considering doing a Dyno tune w/ Kooks long tubes as well. Going to be doing ceramic tint all the way around. Limo on back windows and back glass, 15% on front windows, and 35% on the front windshield. I've got a drop in plastic bed liner that drives me crazy, so I'll more than likely go ahead and get the bed sprayed. Things I'm considering: Looking into changing up the rims and trying to clear 37's when the time comes for new tires. Blacking out the badges? Still not sold on this one... Turbo or a supercharger kit? This one would be way down the line though. Anything else that catches my attention, let me know if you can come up with anything! Here is the truck from stock:
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I own a 2014 Chevy Silverado Double Cab 4x4 Z71 and wanted to share my experience as I approach 30K. When I first bought this truck it was great. I like the features, the ride, very smooth driving characteristics and overall design. Then the recalls started and so far I have had four performed that I know of. I also started noticing some issues that made me feel as if the 10K off MSRP I received was not enough of a discount. Below is recap and assessment of some issues I have seen in the last year and a half of ownership. 1. Paint- too thin and the appearance is blotchy, I am currently having some issues with adhesion as I watch the paint peel off the lower driver and passenger door, this will be covered under the warranty according to the body shop. 2. Recalls- mostly minor but I am sure as time goes on these recalls will increase in severity and inconvenience. GM should extend the bumper to bumper warranty, by a certain amount of time/milage, per recall. 3. Vibrations- there are several issues in this area. Tires are number one in my experience, then the v4 AFM mode and lastly the drivetrain are all sources for these vibrations. But if you look at the numbers on this site and do the math this seems to be an issue that only effects .5%-1% of trucks out there. Even with these statistics in some cases the vibrations have been eleminated. 4. Interior- nice to look at and touch but quality is a C+. Constant snap, crackle, pop, sounds heard mostly caused by thermo expansion and contraction. Then there are the rattles that are caused from cheap clips and loose components. One solution is to take everything apart and use dampening materials (carpet padding/expanding foam/electrical tape) to fill in void spaces and eleminate rattles. 5. Electrical- there are inconsistencies in the way the electronics perform. The radio sometimes emits a static/buzz sound through the speakers when I open the driver door. The bluetooth is temperamental, and the security locking feature sometimes has a delay. 6. Powertrain- GM has some work to do here. From the slip yolk clunk to the G80 rearend backlash knock, this area of the truck needs to be refined and shored up. There was also a leafspring knock that I had to deal with for awhile that I resolved by properly torquing the u-bolts. Even with all this I give this truck a "B-" grade. The 5.3 ecotec MGP along with HP/Torque numbers, the 100k powertrain warranty/36k three year bumper to bumper, and overall performance including towing/hauling make up for some of these issues. I would recommend this vehicle to others but if you are looking take your time and test drive this for a weekend and look for these issues. There are some that are better than others and this is the number one thing when looking at MSRP/resale value. -
I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 4x4 5.3l V8 with the 8 speed transmission. I already flushed out my transmission and filled it back up with the Mobil 1™ Synthetic LV ATF HP blue label. The question is, do i also use the HP fluid for my transfer case? Or do i need to use just a standard ATF fluid instead. I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. The owners manual states to use DEXRON®-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid. Would using regular ATF in the transfer case and HP ATF in the transmission cause any issues? Thanks in advance! -
246 transfer case no power to front wheels 4x4 slip?
W8MCC posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
1998 suburban 1500 4x4 5.7 4l60e np246 push button 4x4 2/4hi/4lo/auto I need some help here. Suddenly my 4x4 quit working on my truck, details above. I have diagnosed everything I can. There are no codes or lights. The issue is no power to the front wheels while in any of the 4x4 positions. The front axle actuator is working, checked with a new one. The encoder motor is new, just installed oem motor. When the truck is on stands the front wheels roll in 4x4 but on the ground they have no torque. I put the front on the ground and jacked up the rear axle, the rear tires spin in drive, the fronts have no pull what so ever. With the truck in the air, 4x4 hi engaged, engine off, truck in neutral, I can roll the front drive shaft by hand and see movement in the rear shaft. Again, when it's in the air everything works, only on the ground it acts like it's still in 2wd. Does the 246 have slipping issues? Is that even possible? I've never had one apart but if there's discs to engage them possibly they are worn? My next step is a xfer case but I don't want to throw any more money away. I should mention I have this problem in auto mode too. Thanks -
Trying to pull the front driveshaft on my '07 Sierra 1500 (new style). Front of shaft is free (out of front diff) but at the back end there is a pressed u-joint (no bolts) with a short rubber boot clamped over the spindle end and it is not sliding out of the transfer case as easily as other driveshafts I've pulled in the past. Dont want to force it if the boot is what's holding it back. Do not see any videos or explanatary photos online showing how the DS removes from the transfer case. Anyone help? See photo. Much thanks...
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Hello all. New to the forum and I appreciate any help. So I’m climbing a 10% grade, well maintained dirt road that’s covered in packed snow the other day and suddenly I get the warning ding and a message that says 4 wheel drive off. Rear end breaks loose, traction control stops the climb, and I’m stuck. Truck off and on a couple times, will start shift into 4 wheel drive then does the same thing. Had to chain up to get out. Owners manual says this will happen when the 4 wheel drive system is overheating. I had used it for about 2 minutes and nothing was more than warm to the touch. Can’t find anything online about it. I have no idea where to go from here without going to the dealership and spending all that cash! Any help is much appreciated. 2014 Sierra 1500 Crew, 4.3L 6, 98k.
