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Drives

  1. Hello guys & lady mechanics, I’m in the process of replacing my rear disc brakes, it has 4Wheel anti loc disc brakes. I have the rear rotors with the interior surface for the parking brake shoes. I have new rear backing plates and hardware. But I noticed a little bit of a runout in the axles, I’m assuming it’s normal bearing wear. It has 175,000 miles on it. Plus the brake lines rusted and caused a pedal to the floor issue for me, so I replaced every single brake line with all new stainless steel lines, and new brake hoses. It has new rotors and pads upfront. What I’m trying to find out, since it’s a 14 Bolt GM differential in the rear, what exactly do I have??? 1) Is it a 9 1/2 inch ring gear, 14 bolt rear end, or is it a 10 1/2 inch ring gear 14 bolt rear end? Where can I find this out. I need to order bearings and seals, and a pinion seal which is leaking. which is my next question, 2) how do I determine what size my pinion seal is before I order one? O’Reilly shows 8 options 3) Last question is, I’m assuming I’m going to have to pull the cover, remove the locking pin for the limited slip differential, and push the axle in, pull the retaining clip, and pull the entire axle out to get to the seals and bearings, correct? My plan is to put a new B&M aluminum differential cover and fresh fluid once this is all done… Lastly I wish I would’ve found this side or search prior to doing my brakes, I would’ve found out that GM was offering half off To replace all new brake lines for $500. It’s done now though. Happy holidays you’ll Dave
  2. Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time.
  3. Hello, for the past two years my truck (2015 Sierra 1500 All Terrain) has been intermittently flashing service lights saying the to service ABS, to service stabillitrac, and to service parking sensors. This would happen a few times a month and would immediately go away and I would think that it was just an annoying bug. But since about a month ago, when making low speed left turns, as well as any size bump, caused it to happen. This worsens into ABS light and stabillitrac light on for one day. While this happened you could feel the ABS pumping at when braking normally. This too went away the next day. I took the truck to the dealer for a diagnostic and told them all of this as well. After the $190 diagnosis they said it was the following codes (attached photo) C0035-04, C0040-04, and C0035-0F. they told me both front hubs were bad and needed replacement. They wanted $1800 for parts and labor. I told them thank you and paid the diagnosis and took the truck home. After the dealer the trucks electronics and 10x worse. Now the ABS and Stabillitrac lights stay on permanently, the brake light dings and flashes with any turn of the steering wheel. Also getting constant service ABS, service trailer brakes, Service stabillitrac, and reduced steering assist. I bought both front hubs and wheel speed sensors. I installed them and torqued everything back to spec. After reconnecting the battery and taking a test drive nothing had changed. I took the top panel from the dash off and did the ground mods. Again, no change. I’m going crazy trying to find the problem. I the. Took the truck to autozone for a code read. It still says the same three codes and it did, even after replacing the parts and sensors the dealer said would work. If anyone knows what the cause is it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Dave
  4. Hello, I just signed up to get some help with my work truck. It's a 2005 Silverado 2500HD base model with the 6.0L auto and manual transfer case and has 280,000 kms. The issue I'm having is with the front axle actuator staying locked even with the transfer case in 2wd. I've had this issue for about a month now and previous google searches suggested that the actuator on the front axle might be the culprit so just today I tried replacing the actuator but that did not fix the problem. If I shift the transfer case into 4H and then back to 2H the dash light will go out briefly for a few seconds but then comes on again. Is there a sensor or switch on or inside the transfer case that might have gone bad? Is there a way to test the wiring from the transfer case to the axle actuator? I did notice a wiring plug near the linkage on the transfer case and I pulled it to check for corrosion or water or anything but it was clean and looked fine, I put in some dielectric grease and plugged it back in. The wiring plug into the axle actuator was clean and dry as well. I'm kind of out of ideas now and am hoping someone here may have had the same issue and knows of a fix. TIA
  5. Hey everyone, I recently purchased a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500. It’s a 4x4 Denali with the 6.2L and ultimate package. Overall it’s everything I’ve ever wanted in a truck and more. I live and work in South Carolina, but I’m originally from Upper Michigan (Yooper, eh). Husband to an amazing wife and father to two busy boys. I joined the forum to get some insight into maintaining my truck as well as some tips for upgrading smaller items.
  6. Hello so I have a 14 Sierra 1500 sle 4x4 i was towing my 16ft flatbed trailer and using the 4hi mode and I back the trailer up and turned it off with the 4 on. I turn it in and the service 4wd shows up. I said huh weird and pulled the truck out. I tried to turn it back to 2wd and it won’t change. The light doesn’t turn on for 2 hi, auto or 4low. I know that it’s in 4hi bc when I turn it hops. Had to drive with the 16ft for about 30mins on 4hi
  7. Welcome to my build! Started with a 2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ 4wd 5.3L, which I bought with 9k miles on her in August of 2020. Got a crazy good deal on it, justified me driving to Georgia from Houston to pick it up. It even came with the Ranch Hand front bumper on it already, other than that she was stock. Little bit of background on my past trucks, I've been fortunate to own quite a few: 07 JK Wrangler, 08 Silverado 1500 LT Z71, 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71, 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT w/ 6.2L, 2016 Denali 2500 Duramax, 2017 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, and finally my 2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71. I also have my 2015 ZL1 Camaro for a little bit of fun on the side, my wife has gone off to German side and is rocking her Porsche Cayenne. So here's the current list of mods: 4" Zone Lift kit w/ Fox rear shocks 35x11.50's Nitto Terra Grapplers on stock 20's Front and back Ranch Hand bumpers Hooker Blackheart Cat-back exhaust utilizing factory dual tips K&N Series 63 cold air intake Rough Country Automatic drop down steps Camlocker Tool box Front windows tinted to match back factory tint Front windshield tint strip Chevy All-Weather floor liners Stubby antenna Just went on a shopping spree of sorts and this is what I've got on order: Boost auto parts auto fog mod Putco Blade LED Tailgate Light Bar w/ Putco wiring harness All LED bulbs; replacing turn signals, license plate lights, and reverse lights. And the GRAND finale, King 2.5 PRS coilovers The list of things to come in the near future: High Country cluster from White Audio and Media, had their Tahoe cluster in my 2017 and it was fantastic! Waiting to order the rear King Resi PRS shocks until my checkbook bounces back a little bit. Lol Going to be putting on several LED light bars and maybe a pod or two, going to do my best to blend them into the Ranch Hands and make them as non conspicuous as possible. I'm strongly considering doing a Dyno tune w/ Kooks long tubes as well. Going to be doing ceramic tint all the way around. Limo on back windows and back glass, 15% on front windows, and 35% on the front windshield. I've got a drop in plastic bed liner that drives me crazy, so I'll more than likely go ahead and get the bed sprayed. Things I'm considering: Looking into changing up the rims and trying to clear 37's when the time comes for new tires. Blacking out the badges? Still not sold on this one... Turbo or a supercharger kit? This one would be way down the line though. Anything else that catches my attention, let me know if you can come up with anything! Here is the truck from stock:
  8. I own a 2014 Chevy Silverado Double Cab 4x4 Z71 and wanted to share my experience as I approach 30K. When I first bought this truck it was great. I like the features, the ride, very smooth driving characteristics and overall design. Then the recalls started and so far I have had four performed that I know of. I also started noticing some issues that made me feel as if the 10K off MSRP I received was not enough of a discount. Below is recap and assessment of some issues I have seen in the last year and a half of ownership. 1. Paint- too thin and the appearance is blotchy, I am currently having some issues with adhesion as I watch the paint peel off the lower driver and passenger door, this will be covered under the warranty according to the body shop. 2. Recalls- mostly minor but I am sure as time goes on these recalls will increase in severity and inconvenience. GM should extend the bumper to bumper warranty, by a certain amount of time/milage, per recall. 3. Vibrations- there are several issues in this area. Tires are number one in my experience, then the v4 AFM mode and lastly the drivetrain are all sources for these vibrations. But if you look at the numbers on this site and do the math this seems to be an issue that only effects .5%-1% of trucks out there. Even with these statistics in some cases the vibrations have been eleminated. 4. Interior- nice to look at and touch but quality is a C+. Constant snap, crackle, pop, sounds heard mostly caused by thermo expansion and contraction. Then there are the rattles that are caused from cheap clips and loose components. One solution is to take everything apart and use dampening materials (carpet padding/expanding foam/electrical tape) to fill in void spaces and eleminate rattles. 5. Electrical- there are inconsistencies in the way the electronics perform. The radio sometimes emits a static/buzz sound through the speakers when I open the driver door. The bluetooth is temperamental, and the security locking feature sometimes has a delay. 6. Powertrain- GM has some work to do here. From the slip yolk clunk to the G80 rearend backlash knock, this area of the truck needs to be refined and shored up. There was also a leafspring knock that I had to deal with for awhile that I resolved by properly torquing the u-bolts. Even with all this I give this truck a "B-" grade. The 5.3 ecotec MGP along with HP/Torque numbers, the 100k powertrain warranty/36k three year bumper to bumper, and overall performance including towing/hauling make up for some of these issues. I would recommend this vehicle to others but if you are looking take your time and test drive this for a weekend and look for these issues. There are some that are better than others and this is the number one thing when looking at MSRP/resale value.
  9. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 4x4 5.3l V8 with the 8 speed transmission. I already flushed out my transmission and filled it back up with the Mobil 1™ Synthetic LV ATF HP blue label. The question is, do i also use the HP fluid for my transfer case? Or do i need to use just a standard ATF fluid instead. I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. The owners manual states to use DEXRON®-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid. Would using regular ATF in the transfer case and HP ATF in the transmission cause any issues? Thanks in advance!
  10. Hello im new to this forum. I have been searching for silimar sounds my truck is making on here but i can't seem to find one. So my truck is a 2020 silverado rst 5.3 8 speed crewcab 4x4 and has 1,600 miles. It makes this clicking sound similar to a clock. I went underneath the truck to listen for the sound and it appears to be coming from transmission area. Any thoughts of what the sound is? Ill attach a sound clip. Its a cold start but it also does it when its warmed up. 20201103_053649_2_1.mp4
  11. 1998 suburban 1500 4x4 5.7 4l60e np246 push button 4x4 2/4hi/4lo/auto I need some help here. Suddenly my 4x4 quit working on my truck, details above. I have diagnosed everything I can. There are no codes or lights. The issue is no power to the front wheels while in any of the 4x4 positions. The front axle actuator is working, checked with a new one. The encoder motor is new, just installed oem motor. When the truck is on stands the front wheels roll in 4x4 but on the ground they have no torque. I put the front on the ground and jacked up the rear axle, the rear tires spin in drive, the fronts have no pull what so ever. With the truck in the air, 4x4 hi engaged, engine off, truck in neutral, I can roll the front drive shaft by hand and see movement in the rear shaft. Again, when it's in the air everything works, only on the ground it acts like it's still in 2wd. Does the 246 have slipping issues? Is that even possible? I've never had one apart but if there's discs to engage them possibly they are worn? My next step is a xfer case but I don't want to throw any more money away. I should mention I have this problem in auto mode too. Thanks
  12. Trying to pull the front driveshaft on my '07 Sierra 1500 (new style). Front of shaft is free (out of front diff) but at the back end there is a pressed u-joint (no bolts) with a short rubber boot clamped over the spindle end and it is not sliding out of the transfer case as easily as other driveshafts I've pulled in the past. Dont want to force it if the boot is what's holding it back. Do not see any videos or explanatary photos online showing how the DS removes from the transfer case. Anyone help? See photo. Much thanks...
  13. Hello all. New to the forum and I appreciate any help. So I’m climbing a 10% grade, well maintained dirt road that’s covered in packed snow the other day and suddenly I get the warning ding and a message that says 4 wheel drive off. Rear end breaks loose, traction control stops the climb, and I’m stuck. Truck off and on a couple times, will start shift into 4 wheel drive then does the same thing. Had to chain up to get out. Owners manual says this will happen when the 4 wheel drive system is overheating. I had used it for about 2 minutes and nothing was more than warm to the touch. Can’t find anything online about it. I have no idea where to go from here without going to the dealership and spending all that cash! Any help is much appreciated. 2014 Sierra 1500 Crew, 4.3L 6, 98k.
  14. Hi... im in need of the spring arm assembly from a monroe hauler air suspension. Having some trouble locating one.. yes I've called monroe. Yes I've called some junk yards. YES I GOT RIPPED OFF FROM A GUY A DAY BEFORE X MAS SAYING HE HAD 2 OF THEM. YES IM AN IDIOT. I'm giving this one last try before I go ahead and make it 4 link.. she needs to get back on the road asap. Love Ed
  15. So I recently purchased a 2020 GMC Sierra and I have the jump seat configuration Id like to switch to the jump seat to a center console and I was wondering has anyone done that on a 2019 or a 2020 GM truck already? I feel this is a do-able modification to my vehicle but Im looking to see what I would need to do. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated.
  16. All parts came off 2017 Silverado LTZ 4x4 with 15K miles. Located in Los Angeles. Would prefer local pick-up but will ship if buyer pays for shipping. Front strut assembly with 2.5 in Motofab leveling kit installed (Pair) - $150 obo - SOLD OE Rear Shocks (Pair) - $50 obo OE Front Knuckles (Pair) - $50 obo
  17. So, I have been having this sound coming from the front right wheel. I thought it was the wheel bearing but it doesn't really sound like it too much to me. I thought to maybe grease the fittings as well but I wanted to see if anyone else had experienced this problem before. Thanks! (Skip to the end for a better sound). New Recording 7.m4a
  18. This morning I started the truck up and I could see the lights on the dash were flickering like there wasn't enough power, and then the battery light popped on. I restarted the truck and the problem went away, was headed to work so figured I would look at it later. Drove to town with no issues, then parked, when I went to put it in reverse, it died and the battery light popped again. Started it up and no problems. Got to work and parked, and it stumbled like it was going to die, then recovered but all the electrical shut off, like the radio restarted, and the voltage meter was reading low(it usually fluctuates between 14 and 15.5ish, this was around 11. Restarted and now it seems fine again. Battery is about 3 years old, alternator is maybe a year and a half. Not sure what to start looking at for intermittent issues like this.
  19. I have a 5.3 with the 6L80 in it and was hoping to swap over to a 6.2 but i can’t find much online about what i will need to replace, anything would help. I know i’ll need a new ECM and possibly a new flex plate but besides that i’m not sure. Thanks in advance!
  20. Problem: Truck while in 2 wheel drive will sporadically and temporarily tug briefly to the right causing a noticeable pull in the steering wheel to the right. It is only noticed between the speeds of approximately 40-50 MPH. There may be tugs at lower speeds but it is too small to be certain. The tugs do not occur over 50 MPH. The issue cannot be reproduced by the driver. There can be one tug or two to three sequential tugs. The vehicle is problem free prior and after the tugs. The force of the tugs can be mild, moderate or heavy. The tugs are noticed daily closer to the 42 MPH and 50 MPH marks in higher gear while coasting without acceleration or deceleration. For example, truck is accelerated to the 40-50 MPH range and acceleration is softened to allow for coasting in that speed range; the transmission will typically be in a lower gear, higher rpm, for a few moments until it up-shifts to the next higher gear and lower coasting rpm; the sporadic tugs are typically noticed in the lower gear, higher rpm range (1650). It seems that maybe the tugs are more prevalent during the first 5 to 10 minutes of operation from a sitting, parked position (cold engine or hot engine is irrelevant, it appears). Weather and pavement conditions do not affect the problem. Truck tracks straight when not tugging to the right. Problem started around 24,000 to 25,000 miles. Vehicle: 2015 Chevy Silverado, 2500 HD, WT, 6.0L Gas, manual 4x4, dual cab, long bed, tow package, plow package with 26,000 miles currently. Troubleshooting done so far by dealer: (1) corrective alignment; (1) alignment check after corrective alignment; tire rotation; swapping the two tires in front right to left; suspension check; front brake removal, check and lubrication. The dealer is currently stumped. Summary: Dealer has checked for radial pull, mis-alignment, tire pressure and brake issues. The closest guess that I have is from someone else's thread of: passenger side CV shaft going bad. They had what appeared to be the same tugging issues and the CV shaft did not give the tell-tale audible noises of failure. Their passenger side CV shaft just went bad, they changed it and posted that problem was mostly likely solved. I don't know though. Any thoughts??
  21. I recently got a 2000 chevy s10 LS 4.3 v6 4wd that wont start it cranks no problem everything else works but the security light is always on it never flashes its solid i have tried the relearn procedure 10 times nothing i have scanned it for codes got none i have tried putting a ziptie tip in the passlock plug in and nothing i have found a forum that is having the same issue but they did the resistor and it didnt work for them i dont know what to do to fix it and get it to run i dont have the money and dont want to take it to the dealer so dont suggest that if you know how to fix it please let me know thank you.
  22. So I would like some advice. I want to level my 2015 Silverado 1500 4x4 crew cab. I am just out of the factory warranty with 38K miles. I was looking at installing a RC 3/2 leveling kit and have been reading many forums talking about how bad these leveling kits are to the suspension. Not just the RC, but any leveling kit. The kit is the 3" spacer between strut and tower with 2" block on rear. Many of the forums are saying the front suspension will wear out within 10K miles of installing. So I wanted to start a thread and get some opinions on some experiences with these kits. Has anyone had issues with these type of kits? What am I to expect in 10K, 15K, 20K miles to change out due to excessive wear from these kits? I know I will need to do an alignment right after install, but how will the truck ride and wear on the tires with these kits? Are they as bad as I have been reading? I read one thread where someone had to spend $6K to completely replace their IFS suspension from this kit. Was this a one off situation or a very good possibility? I want to get ride of that nose down look and give the truck a much better looking stance for a 4x4 truck. So what other options are there to level or give a slight lift to my truck that will cause as little damage down the road as possible to the suspension? I understand there is always risk when altering a suspension, but there must be some other options that do little damage and still allow a lift or level of the truck. Someone mentioned a body lift, but that still leaves the nose down look of the body. Thoughts?
  23. I have a 2015 GMC 6.6 2500HD Denali 4x4 leveled out. I currently have 305/45/22 tires, they do not rub! I'm hoping that the new set of tires I just purchased will Not rub... 33x12.50x22 If anyone has any insight please respond
  24. Hello, Looking to upgrade my 2017 Silverado 1500 LTZ 4WD. I am set on the 4" BDS Lift kit with the Fox shocks. Is there any benefit to the BDS Recoil System Traction bar upgrade? Or any benefit to the Rear leaf springs upgrade instead of the 4" blocks? Secondly, I am deciding on whether I should get 33" tires or 35" - Any suggestions. Don't want 33's to look small, but don't want 35's to look to big or not fit. Wanting the Nitto Ridge Grappler Tires and Fuel Rebel 8 D679 20x10 Rims. Any suggestions on the BDS upgrades or Tire sizes is greatly appreciated. First time lifting a truck. Thanks!
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