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Drives

Found 19 results

  1. Hey guys, new to this forum. Recently purchased one of the dream trucks of mine, 2014 Sierra Z71 4x4 5.3l. Which I was finally able to afford lol, bought from a local dealer with 88k miles. Prior to purchasing I test drove it, checked the history and maintenance records from GMC. All seemed well, purchased it and few days later while driving home on the highway cruising about 60-70mph, I began noticing a really loud sudden vibration that would come and go every few minutes (feels like it’s coming from underneath the truck not sure), lasting about 5 seconds. Even around 20-30mph I notice some shaking. Seems to be shifting fine, drives pretty smooth other than these vibrations that are coming and going. I just don’t know what it could be. I didn’t notice it during the test drive, just my luck, hoping for the best. Any opinions are greatly appreciated, I attached a video as well of the sound. 85CD798D-6EDF-4AD3-896A-02B1F45F48D7.MOV
  2. Well I ordered all the parts this morning to do the rear axle shafts and brake job. Truck has 81,XXX miles on it. Factory pads are about gone. The passenger side axle shaft seal is back to leaking pretty bad. It was R&R'd at 16k and has been sweating ever since and the dealer didn't want to hear it. 9 months later when I bought our new Enclave, I made sure I didn't step foot in that dealer. Anyway, I've also had the driveshaft balanced by a local shop which helped out quite a bit. All but one person who I've found did Yukon shafts said it fixed the vibration. So for $260, worth the old college try. Parts list en route are.... -Yukon Axle Shafts -ACDelco Wheel bearings (both sides) -ACDelco axle shaft seals (both sides) -GM Diff cover gasket (yes I know its reusable but I've already used it once with my PML Cover and put silicone on it. ) -Raybestos Police package rotors. I read that these are mill balanced to a pretty good spec. Tolerances in general are much tighter. -Raybestos hybrid ceramic truck pads While I have it apart I'm going to do a gear pattern check, R&P backlash check at multiple locations around the ring AND check the pinion pre-load measurement. I read that one of these lemon buy back vibrators was donated to a tech school and upon disassembly the pinion pre-load was zero. Yes, zero. So i'm going through the axle my way.
  3. I have a 2008 1500 with a 3:42 w/G80, anti drum brakes. I want to go to 3:73 rears. The diff had the spacer break and cause case and bearing damage. I changed the bearing and re shimmed. I want to replace the entire axle with an 3:73 ratio. I was wonder what years models will be an direct swap. Will some earlier years work??
  4. Anyone know what this noise is? It's very intermittent. Seems to do it most often between 40 and 50 MPH cruising with maybe a slight up hill. Never does it on coast or heavy acceleration. Very hard to tell where it's coming from. 20190521_191545_001.mp4 2014 Sierra Denali 1500 Crewcab, 5'8" bed 6.2 Litter 3.42 axle ratio about 118,000 miles
  5. Good morning, So I'm finally going to reach out to my fellow Silverado and Sierra owners. I have been dealing with a harmonic vibration issue with my 2014 Silverado crew cab 5.3 2WD for around 5 months. I have taken my truck into 3 different dealers to only have the driveshaft replaced under the powertrain warranty and it fixed about 40% of my vibration issue. The vibration can be felt in the gas pedal, steering wheel, seat, and it can be heard. It sounds a lot like a phasing boom. The dealer that replaced the driveshaft has said they now believe its my "CHEAP hancook tires" but I can duplicate the vibration with the truck supported on jack stands under the axle housing (not changing the pinion angle) with the wheels removed. Now with the wheels removed the vibration is not as bad but its still the same vibration I'm experiencing. One dealer told me I have a bent axle but I don't have any wobble side to side with the wheel on. the driver side wheel does look like it has a highspot with the wheel installed (you can swap wheels with the same results). the tech that replaced the driveshaft said he checked the axles and the checked out okay... Now I have yet to get a good dry warm day to throw a dial indicator on it myself to check but I wanted to check with yall and see what you think. the next nice day I get I plan on pulling the diff cover and taking a look inside. but any help would be much appreciated. I took it in to see about trading back into a Toyota and they didn't want to give me hardly anything for it and the new TRD Tacoma I drove just seemed so cheap for the $36,xxx they wanted for it. My Silverado has a lot more features plus im a fan of the LS engines so I plan on trying to resolve this issue before I try to trade it again. vibration is felt from 20-70+mph the worst is 55-65mph. running boards have been removed, new trans mount, new complete driveshaft. tires have been rotated and the vibration is still coming from the rear center of the truck. Vibrates in V4 & V8, and in neutral. I also have a case opened with GM on this issue since October 2018 so it's well documented. 2014 Silverado LT 5.3L 6l80e 2WD crew cab. (built in the mexico plant) 87,XXX MILES. Please keep the stupid comments to yourself. I just want to get this issue resolved so I can enjoy this truck.
  6. 2014 Silverado single cab 8’ bed WT 6 cyl. Just inherited this truck at 96,000 miles and haven’t driven previously so cannot say if instant or has been coming on for a while. So I’m in park and I put it in drive, as I give it gas it will rev up a little bit and then SLAP, POW, sometimes horribly bad and is scary to experience. If you’re making a mental note and put it in drive and wait a couple few seconds and THEN take off slow it’s a minimal feeling. The severity is directly related to how FAST or how high you rev it when you initially accelerate from P to D as well as how LONG you wait until you accelerate from P to D. If you’re not used to doing anything other (like myself) then slapping it in drive and taking off it is humongous loud and entire truck will jerk badly and feels like you just dropped a driveline. I do not think it is tranny related because I have no issues with the transmission itself while driving. No slippage at all and shifts perfectly fine albeit, shifting is to say somewhat jerky and noticeable. What do you all think? Put a notice on the steering wheel reminding me to baby and pamper it and she’ll be fine for many many moons or is it time to rebuild “something”
  7. I have a 2014 Silverado 1500, 5.3L double cab, 4wd, which I use to tow a ~6000lb travel trailer. The travel trailer has a heavy tongue weight at roughly 950lbs. I have a E2 load transferring hitch that probably takes ~300lbs off the tongue and transfers it to other axles. I still wasn't happy with the visible stress on the hitch, so I added air bags to the rear axle. The air bags have addressed the sagging rear end and have really cleaned up the bouncy feel while driving with the trailer and I'm happy with them (in fact, I recommend them!). Last weekend I hooked it up to go camping and decided to drive it on the truck scale to get axle weights. The rear axle was right at 4000 lbs, or 50lbs over the GRAWR. I didn't have much in the bed of the truck (however, it has a fiberglass cap), no kids in the cab (100lbs each x2), I actually think it was a lighter load than normal... and I'm over the weight rating. I learned that the "Max trailering package" offers a towing mirror & larger rear-end. Along with it is a 4300lb axle rating, but I don't have that on this truck. With the new body style 2019's, Chevrolet has dropped the axle rating to 3800lbs from 3950. So I'm not sure if I want to rush to find an "old style" (2014-2018) truck with the Max trailering package before they're all gone... or am I really staring down a 3/4 ton pickup to tow my 6000lb travel trailer? Or am I reading the GRAWR wrong? Thanks.
  8. I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight???
  9. Hello How it going? I wanted post and ask some questions as along the way and see if I am crazy enough to upgrade and discuss about modifying a stock GMC 2016 4x4 2500HD 6.0L Gas suspension system. The truck needed a nice smooth riding stability control system on it's suspension system and along it needed to takes more weight load carrying capacity controls from major loads when towing big loads from over hauling trailers. Plus even on it's no-loads capacity as well when you need to drive on a everyday needs in all conditions from all driving ability and keep safe from going out of control from all major issues on the roads conditions on a stock 2500HD/3500HD, I can tell things are getting out of control as conditions are getting worsts beyond our controls when dealing with a stock HD trucks suspension system on a bad roads conditions. Anyway I wanted to upgrade this truck to improve the truck without spending to much money but enough for the truck to drive better than possible so here some ideas and list of parts of modifications that I have studied and thought about thought I post something asked and shared and discuss as asking some ideas for some upgrades. Thanks for helping guys as I need some helps. So far I already installed a rear Hellwig Big Wig Sway bar the model # is 7270 and have it on the medium setting on the links holes for the sway bars as it on the #2 holes. The center hole is considered is medium setting. The far out as #1 hole is the lose setting and far back to the axle #3 hole is tighter setting for the sway bar settings. And I have to say I already feel a huge improvements to the rear suspension by adding a rear sway bar. I can tell by it does prevents the waving as rocking side to side when driving into a drive ways or pulling into a intersections or running over pot holes or curbs or jumping over a railways or hills and some major improvements on things like those quadruple humps and ripples as dips on the road that make your whole truck shake everywhere and wobbling back and forth from going over on those melted asphalt from the roads and highways as it swerves out of control at a high speed and including hauling something that makes it bounce everywhere even to lose control on a empty bed. Plus the improvements over driving into by turning fast and pilling out or in front of the traffic as keeping the truck lock down on the road to pull in and it enforce it from leaning over, keeping the truck from waving over as swerving out of control from rocking by it side. And the sway bar does improve towing. It help you to control your trailer from losing out of control from a dodge moments on cars and winds and other moments to prevent your trailer from wobbling on a highways. Keep the back end stable as twisting the roll body of the truck especially pillingout on a burn out. it been been lot of flooding in Texas lately and I need to spray paint it black and painted the u bolts as well as keeping it from rusting including the axle drive staff joint. Rust is a disease to metal. I only have this 3 months of use of this Hellwig and this truck has 9,786 miles on it. Now the questions is do I needed to go ahead and buy the front sway bar? And put a bigger heavier duty links as well that hooks on to the front sway bars? I don't know what size the is the original stock front sway bars as in inches from as American scale, so far, I founded out the size it is 1.250 of a inch? Is that 1 inch and 3/8 in size? or is that 1 and half of a inch? And the links that came with the truck looks little poor. Looks like it needed to be on a 1500 models trucks and asking for a bigger set of links to control the front of the sway bars on the 2500HD front end suspension. But anyway the Hellwig has a 1 and 1/2 of a inch in thickness of the sway bar and if the the truck stock sway bars is the same size then I don't need to get it it be a waste of money by having the same size bars. I don't know if that make anything big of a different but maybe it will in tightness of a sway bars as for front suspension system if it little bigger right? Anyway here are the list of the modifications upgrades for the suspension system packages that are listed for a smooth ride with major medium payloads capability. Feel free to post some idea of some more modifications suspension system for a stock GMC /Chevy 4x4 2500HD / 3500HD 2014 to 2019. Hellwig Rear Sway Bar 7270.......Weight: 8,000lbs Hellwig Front Sway Bar 7716......Weight: 5,000lbs Hellwig Leaf Helper Springs Stabilizer LP-3512.....Weight: 3500lbs Leaf Spring Shocks Absorbed Sulastic Shackle For Axle SA-06...Non-affect load carrying capacity BDS NX2 Single Steering Stabilizer with Mounting Bracket Kit.....Get Boot Cover Protection PPE Stage 3 Tie Rod Assemblies #158031511.....Has Larger Ball Joints and Staff SuperSpring Front Sumo Spring SSF-202-54......Weight: 2000lbs SuperSpring Rear Sumo Spring SSR-203-40-2....Weight: 2600lbs Max at 80% 3000lbs G2 GM 10.5" 14 Bolt Rear Brute Ball Milled Aluminum Differential Axle Cover.....Amsoil 95W-140 Gear Oil Fox Shocks 2.5 Reservoir Front and Rear. These are my upgrades for a medium high performance stabilizer for the truck suspension system modifications. As for tires and rims I would love to have a 20 inch rims with 285/65/20 tires Or 18 inch rims with 285/70/18 tires one day. This should improves the overalls of the trucks capability right? Dream engine on this truck is LS1 427 32V 6.2L 25MPG on this 2500HD 4.10 gear ratio with the twin as y air filter intake system with dual exhaust .... Goals <3.. I wish I could afford this and to put a 8 speed tranny on it.
  10. Alright so I’m thinking of doing a 2/4 drop on my 14 Silverado got a quick question. Will I have to mess with the driveshaft at all I don’t want the driveline to go in to the transmission. Will I have any problems.
  11. I recently found out I have 3.42 gears (code GU6) in my 1990 V1500 Suburban. I need to change out the axle assembly because so many parts from the old assembly were damaged. My question is what years can I swap out the old assembly for a new one? I mean, GM had to be using more or less that same axle assembly set up until maybe 2000 or something. It seems like the year shouldn't really matter much, just the gears.
  12. 2003 Avalanche Z71 157k miles Right rear wheel got hot enough to almost start smoking, left rear wheel too hot to touch. Could be moisture in the brake lines after having all brake lines replaced last summer but decided to replace the rear wheel bearings anyway first (how hard can it be...). Removed C clips with no problem but getting the bearings out required heating up the axle tubes a bit and beating myself half to death with the slide hammer puller but got the bearings out and new ones in with new seals easily enough after that. Problem now is when I crawled back under to insert the Differential Pinion Gear Shaft I find that somehow the Locking Differential Thrust Block has rotated 90 degrees. The holes for the shaft are no longer next to the side gears and instead are looking at me. At this point I have done just about all I can think of to rotate the thrust block, but I can't see how it rotated in the first place. It is movable but squarish. The only thing I can think of is that somehow if I back off the Latching Bracket I might be able to rotate it. Any insight?
  13. The owners manual on my 2011 Silverado 1500 4X4 is a bit confusing on the topic of lubricants to use in front and rear drive axles (see attached photo below from manual). It appears that all rear axles for that year call for 75W-90 synthetic axle lube, but it is not clear about what is called for in the front axle. The first line calls for 80W-90 lube in 1500 series, four-wheel drive, then the second line calls for synthetic 75W-90 lube in all series, but doesn't reference four-wheel drive. But that second line has to be referring to a 4X4 front axle because if it was a 4X2 truck it wouldn't have a differential in the front axle and therefore wouldn't need diff lube. Thoughts? Thanks!
  14. Not a real frequent participant here because I have a build going on another forum that is vehicle specific. However, most of the builds there are not concerned with OEM restoration or at least keeping originality in the build. So that said, here is the question: What was the axle treament that GM put on the axles of their trucks in the mid to late 80s? Were they painted with something? If so, what color? Or,were they just left in the natural or oiled as cast or wrought state? They are currently a very orangish brown "patina." I am not real interested in coating option suggestions, I have a ton of those, but I would like to know what may have been on the vehicle to start with.
  15. Hi everyone im new here and need some help. I have a 1990 gmc sierra 3500 4x4 and yesterday i was flexing while 4 wheeling and noticed my front right leaking gear oil. I looked closer and noticed my right side inner axle popped out and wouldn't pop back in. So now it is loose inside and leaked all the gear oil out. Im thinking it could be a c-clip broke? But i was told my truck doesnt have those.. any help would be much appreciated thank you..
  16. i broke my right rear axle saturday afternoon pulling out of a store now i was giving it some gas but not thrashing on it this is the second axle ive broke both in the same place the first i was simply pulling off from a light in traffic. ive been told its from making too much power to the right rear but if thats the case why don't ther D-MAX owners have issues everyday? truck has 6.0 4.10 g80 on 35x13x22r with nitto m/t's any help would be useful
  17. Did a search and couldn't come up with much on passenger side (RH) axle seal leaks for 900's. I just noticed a drip on my garage floor and got a sick feeling when I looked under there. Only 57K (easy) miles on this thing and a leaky axle already!? It's like deja vu from my 2005 which had the same leak but covered under warranty. I know it was a big prob on the 800's but anybody run into this much yet on the 900's? How much trouble is it to get at the passenger side seal?
  18. My 07 Z71 has a rattle noise that sounds like it is coming from the front. I have searched high and low to find anyone else with this problem and all I could find was everyone saying at low speed, steering shaft or it rattles with any bump. The noise I am hearing sounds like a washer spinning on a shaft. It only does it around 65-73 MPH. The only thing I have done to it is replaced the passenger side cv axle about a year ago when it broke. This was before the noise started. I replaced it on the drivers side about three weeks ago due to the noise and it popping in 4wheel. It fixed the popping of course but not the rattle noise. I checked everything I could think to check but have had no luck. The one thing I am leaning towards more than anything is I grabbed the axle where it is bolted to the flange that goes into the differential and tried to turn forward and reverse to check for play I noticed it move up and down a little where it goes in the differential just a bit. It wasn't much but was noticeable. I am just curious as to where I need to start looking, what to look at and has anybody had this issue. I'm at a loss right now.
  19. Hello, I'm replacing the rear left axle and bearing on a 2008 GMC Sierra C1500 with 75K miles. Is there a guide available online that can walk me through the process? Will I need any special tools? Also, how long do you estimate it will take? Are there any additional items I should replace or check while I'm under there, (i.e. sensors, lines, etc.)? Any other tips or suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance, guys.
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