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Drives

  1. I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight???
  2. I recently took my all wheel drive 08 Chevy Express G1500 work van to the mechanic and he said I need the front differential reapired/replaced. From the research I have done so far this is looking like a very pricey repair. My question is, is it possible to remove the front differential and replace front axle and associated parts with standard front end parts?
  3. I have a 2004 Chevy Astro van 2WD 4.3L with a 4L60E automatic transmission and something is seriously wrong, but I have yet to figure it out. I definitely need some help. I usually do all my own repairs and I am very mechanically inclined, but this has me stumped. I even consulted a friend who knows a lot more than me and he was puzzled and asked that I share with him what was wrong once it has been diagnosed. I would probably be willing to drop the big wad of cash down for parts for a remanufactured transmission if needed, or for a remanufactured rear end and new axles.... BUT the van is not worth spending $1,500 (or more) times TWO. I need to definitively be able diagnose the problem so that I can decide how much I'm going to have to invest to get it going again. I bought it used from a municipal police department that used it as a crime scene investigation vehicle and it has no hitch on it, so to the best of my knowledge it has never done any towing. Here is what happened and what I have checked thus far.... I pulled out of the driveway at work and after I had cleared the 2 lanes of oncoming traffic and was in the crossover in the median I let off of the accelerator and heard a slap, pop, or bang that sounded like it came from the right, rear corner. I instantly thought it might be trouble as it sounded like clapping/slapping two solid bricks together. I hoped it was just something I ran over. Then I pulled out and accelerated up to 55 mph. Then about a 1/2 mile down the road I heard what sounded like driving on a tire that was completely flat. I pulled off the road to check out my tires. I was surprised when they all looked fine. I realized something had to be wrong and I wanted to get my van to a better spot where I could investigate further. I put it in reverse to back up a few feet to better align me with the area I wanted to drive to, but the van would not move backwards. I wondered if something with my rear brakes had broken or locked up. I was able to move forward in D, but there was a good amount of resistance as the engine was struggling to move the van forward. There was a good clear spot nearby where I parked. I thought somehow something had broken in the rear brakes and bound things up preventing the van from moving as normal. I jacked up the van and removed both of the rear wheels, removed the pads & rotors, then propped the calipers out of the way. I put the transmission in neutral. I replaced the rear wheels as it was easier to rotate the tires by hand than trying to rotate the lugs on the hubs by hand. The tires spun freely by hand, but after about 10 revolutions there was a clang noise and the tires stopped. I rotated the tire in the reverse direction and it no longer made the driveshaft move as it had been in the forward direction. Then the clang noise again and the tire stopped rotating in the reverse position. Both front wheels easily rotated when spun by hand, so the binding wasn't coming from the front This made me think that it was possibly something going on in the rear end. I pulled the cover and I saw no obvious problems with the differential. I have the G80 rear end which I had never seen that type of rear end before. When I moved my tire forward by hand slowly there was no movement in the rear end, but when I put my foot on the tire and give it a spin the tire moved a lot and the rear end moves a little. I didn't see anything that looked worn or damaged in the rear end. I cleaned up the parts, cover, and magnet and put the cover on with a new gasket and replaced the fluid. While both the rear wheels were still off the ground I cranked the van. It was still in neutral, but both rear wheels were slowly rotating forward. Then I shifted into Drive and, with the engine idling, the wheels would pulse several rotations forward, then slow to almost a stop and then repeat the pulse & near stop. I couldn't understand why the surge and slow was taking place. Then, I drove it the 1/2 back to work to leave it in their parking lot. The van made all sorts of popping, grinding, and clanging noises. When I stopped I put the transmission in neutral, but it would not roll backwards. I tried reverse and the nose of the van dived down and the rear bucked up, but the van never traveled any distance in reverse. I pulled it forward a few feet into the nearest parking space. The van did throw a MIL code on the way back to work, which was a P0756 (PCM sensed an irregularity in shift solenoid B). I thought that I might need to remove the driveshaft and see if the transmission would turn the output shaft while in reverse. Also, I could try to see if there were and weird noises, pulsing, or resistance to the output shift turning when in Drive. But, I wouldn't necessarily know for sure the tranny was good if it only misbehaved while under a load. I had ordered a set of shop manuals about a week before all this happened, and they have now arrived but I wanted to see if anyone had any ideas about how to diagnose my problem before I resorted to the shop manuals. I get bogged down in them because there is soooo much information in them. How can I definitely determine if the problem is my tranny, my rear end, or both? Here is a video link on YouTube showing when I had the rear end cover removed: Here is a video link showing when the rear end cover and fluid were replaced and both rear wheels were off the ground in Neutral and in Drive with the van running:
  4. 2014 Silverado LT 1500 4x4. So i was coming back to work today and i chirped the wheels in the driveway as usual... Then I noticed something funny as I pulled into one of the stalls. As I made the sharp left to swing into the spot I felt like my truck's 4x4 was engaged. I say that because I had to press harder on the gas pedal and it felt like the rear tires weren't pushing the truck. It was reminiscent of being on the trail and hearing the engine push harder to get the tires going. In any case, I pulled in with the rear left wheel hopping and semi dragging. I was going no more than 5mph BTW. So i straightened the wheel and backed straight out. The truck moved just fine. As I turned the wheel to swing the front end left in reverse I could hear the rear left wheel "hop" on the asphalt/rocks. I stopped and turned the traction control on/off. I then pulled forward a little in a turn and same symptoms. I then turned the 4x4 from 2wd to 4 hi and then back to 2wd. After each engaged I started turning right to go down the driveway with the wheel still hop/dragging. So I deliberately hit a bump to see how it would act. As the crest of the bump i heard a LOUD pop. After that I could turn the truck sharply and the rear wheels wouldn't bind. It was back to normal. Any thoughts?
  5. Hey there all I've done as much digging on my own before coming here but Im needing some help. I currently have a 1997 Chevrolet c1500 extended cab, my RPO code tells me that i have a factory GU8 rear differential and I'm looking to upgrade. I've always been weary of clutch style lsd differentials so I've been pouring over information on torque sensing positrac diffs. I think I've come down to my final run down on what I'm wanting to do but I want to get some feedback before I spend the money From what I can gather, the rear axle under the 98-2001 Camaro is the same series as the axle under my truck, and I believe has the zexel t2 series torsen differential I'm looking for. So I'm hoping that I can take the zexel from a Camaro and mate my current ring gear to it to use in my truck. If anyone has any more Info I'd be really appreciative.
  6. I’ve searched previous forums and haven’t found the feedback I’m looking for, although this is a common topic. So bear with me. I have a 1999 Silverado 1500... 5.3L.... 4l60e... 4WD... NP246 TC.... 3.73 gear ratio... 160k miles. The symptoms I’m having are namely: Large clunk when shifting into reverse. A less noticeable, but still at times, a clunk when shifting into Drive. Harsh down shifts when coming to a stop from cruising speeds. Today, I put the truck on 4 jack stands so I could get a better idea of what is going on. After being under the truck during shifts between Park Drive and Reverse , it seems to me the “clanking” is originating from the Transfer Case. And mainly from the output shaft that drives the front diff. When the truck is turned off and in park, I can manually with my hands rotate the front drive shaft back and forth and replicate the same (ish) banging noise I hear when making those shifts between P D and R. The noise is consistent whether the truck is in 2WD, 4 HI, or 4LO. I guess my question in general is what testing can I do to further look into this and figure out the root cause? Would these symptoms typically originate from the tcase? My long term plan is hopefully to replace both the Transfer case and front diff with either low mile junk yard OR remanufactured units. after replacing those things, assuming a good install, do you believe the “clanking” will be fixed? In general, the truck is shifting through gears like dog ******. But I love her and want to renew it over time.
  7. Hello Guys need some help. I have a 2007 gmc sierra classic 1500. It has a gu5 rear end that took a crap on me. My question is, is there any other differentials i can swap without having to modify anything. Im looking to get a replacment at a wrecking yard but cant find a gu5. I dont care about hauling or my truck being faster or fuel effeciency. I just need the thing rolling again. Please any help would be appreciated.
  8. I purchased a new 2018 Silverado 1500 LT less than a year ago. It had 55 miles on it when I drove it off the lot in April of '19. It just clicked 14K and I am well within my warranty period. Recently, while making left turns, at low speed, such as parking lots and turning corners the rear wheels lock. It locks enough to drag the wheels and I chirp the tires as I corner. It sounds like the rear differential is grinding as I power through the turn. It as if the 4WD engages or the posi locks. I have the auto 4WD option, however, it is always in 2WD when this happens. As soon as I straighten out or make a right turn it goes away/unlocks. The dealership cannot find anything wrong. What gives??
  9. Does anyone know a good shop in the Nashville Tn are that does diff gear swaps ? I pull a 26 foot camper loaded weight is about 7k . I have 3.08 gears and i want to swap to a 3.73 or 4.10 . Anyone have 4.10 gears ? What MPG are you getting ?
  10. Hey guys, new to this forum. Recently purchased one of the dream trucks of mine, 2014 Sierra Z71 4x4 5.3l. Which I was finally able to afford lol, bought from a local dealer with 88k miles. Prior to purchasing I test drove it, checked the history and maintenance records from GMC. All seemed well, purchased it and few days later while driving home on the highway cruising about 60-70mph, I began noticing a really loud sudden vibration that would come and go every few minutes (feels like it’s coming from underneath the truck not sure), lasting about 5 seconds. Even around 20-30mph I notice some shaking. Seems to be shifting fine, drives pretty smooth other than these vibrations that are coming and going. I just don’t know what it could be. I didn’t notice it during the test drive, just my luck, hoping for the best. Any opinions are greatly appreciated, I attached a video as well of the sound. 85CD798D-6EDF-4AD3-896A-02B1F45F48D7.MOV
  11. I have a 2015 Silverado with the G80. Can anyone shed some light on this? Situation: The rear wheels slip and eventually the G80 pawls spring out to engage the lock. You proceed through your "sticky situation" and at some point drive onto a grippable surface. Do you have to stop the vehicle, or even reverse a little, in order to release those pawls from the notch that they spring into? Just seems like it would stay engaged as long as your wheels keep rotating.
  12. Planning on changing out fluid in my front and rear diffs. Should I put anything on the threads of the plugs when going back in? thank you.
  13. I hope I’m not stirring a hornets nest here... I know there are a ton of Amsoil fans here, personally I use Mobil 1 for oil changes... haven’t made the time to change my transfer case and differentials on my 16 4wd... called a shop and quoted me $250 for all 3...and they use BG products... 1) is that a reasonable deal 2) is BG any good? (I’ve done some research, but can’t teally tell if they are sponsored or independent results... thanks in in advance!
  14. hello all, I am sure this issue has been beat to death multiple times, but I cant find the answer. I have a 2005 Silverado 1500 z71, I have had this issue for about 2 years now. the issue being that no matter what part I replace my 4wd wont reliably work. here is a list of what parts have been replaced. Drivers side wheel hub- twice Passenger Side wheel hub- three times Diff. actuator- twice 4 button switch on dash- once TCCM- once Transfer case motor- once So what is happening is, the dash will read service 4wd, i have taken it in to a shop where they have been replacing the parts, and i have come to the conclusion they are just throwing parts at it to find a fix. Every time they would replace a part it will work about 2-3 days but then give me the same service 4wd message. if i push one of the 3 4wd buttons on the switch the light will blink for a while then stop and it seems like it doesn't shift into 4wd. But i have crawled under the truck while someone else selects a 4wd button, I can hear and feel the transfer case changing into to 4wd mode. but the front diff actuator does not engage. I have checked and cleaned the ground wire under the drivers door twice but that doesn't seem to help. I am done throwing money at the shop to fix it, so this is my last resort. any help or ideas is greatly appreciated, Thank you,
  15. I was going to post this as a follow-up in the 4.10 gear thread about re-calibrating the speedometer but it seemed like a bridge too far in terms of a thread jack so I thought I'd start a new thread. I suspect I'm going to cover ground that has already been covered in a few threads so I apologize but hopefully this helps someone. Also, if you don't want to waste your time with my nerd-ery throughout, just go to the last two paragraphs. Re-gearing for different tire sizes is a topic that I have followed for some time with keen interest. For one, I have a lifted truck with 35-inch tires (more on that later) still on the stock gears and am eagerly awaiting the moment I have enough cash to re-gear it. I hope to do so in the next couple months. Second, this topic is interesting to me because it seems to be loaded with opinions about the correct gear to choose, which is surprising since gear ratios and their effects are a known quantity. Full disclosure: I have never worked in the auto industry and I am NOT a certified auto technician. I do have a BS in Aerospace Engineering (I am NOT a practicing engineer) and a fair amount of technical experience so I consider myself at least partially qualified to discuss technical topics in general terms. As always, there are definitely people that frequent these forums that know more than I do. If you fit that description, please chime in and correct my errors. Pointing out that I'm wrong won't hurt my feelings. I will feel bad, however, if someone spends a bunch of money or makes a poor decision based on my bad information. Everyone has different desires for their truck's performance so I always cringe when I see a new thread with the topic "What gear ratio should choose?" The only thing that makes me cringe more is when someone posts in that same thread "You should get 4.56. That's what I did and I love it. You'll be happy." That's great but it's also totally useless feedback in my opinion. Without any explanation for the reasoning behind the decision and likely with no knowledge on what will make someone else happy that's a pretty big leap. I find myself frustrated when someone's emotions drive their recommendation for a specific gear ratio based on how they feel when they drive their own truck. I don't know anyone on this forum personally. I respect all of you for our common love for our own trucks but I will always be skeptical when a relative stranger gives me a recommendation based on their "feelings." On to my specific example: my own 2017 Silverado 1500 LT Z71. I bought the truck from the dealer with a 6" lift, 20-inch wheels and 35-inch tires already installed. I love my truck. What I didn't do, largely due to a lack of experience and research was get new gears installed right away. I wish I had. I plan to do so soon so the natural question is "What gear ratio should I get?" I don't tow much. When I do, it isn't especially heavy. I bought a 1500 for that reason. I love the bigger, stronger trucks but at this point in my life I just don't need one. So if you're like me and have 35-inch tires and the GM stock 3.42 differential gear (6-speed transmission), the determination on the new gear ratio now depends on what I want to do with the truck. In my case, I want to get back to stock performance/drive-ability, or as close as possible. To figure out how to do that, there is no opinion needed. It's a question of geometry and its associated math. If you Google the phrase "gear ratio tire size" you will be inundated with calculators that will tell you what you need. I picked the first two that popped up. One said my current effective gear ratio is 3.17 and I need to be a 3.98 to get back to stock. The other said my numbers were slightly different but not by much. The difference is likely because one calculator used a simple "tire diameter" figure and the other used actual tire sizes. With that info alone, I will round to the next lower ratio (numerically higher) and go with 4.10 gears. The common response to this line of reasoning that I see is "But, dude, what about the rolling mass of the new, bigger tires?!?" Great point. First off, I'm a nerd so what we should probably be referring to is "angular momentum" which is what is probably meant when people say "rolling mass." Every wheel/tire out there is rolling mass but it's the angular momentum of that wheel and tire that we're concerned about. Specifically accelerating when we're talking gears. First, a few relevant formulas: L=I*ω "L" is Angular Momentum "I" is moment of inertia "ω" is angular speed, aka how fast the thing is spinning I=r^2*m "r" is radius "m" is mass The second formula just states the obvious - a bigger/heavier wheel has a bigger moment of inertia than a smaller one. What might be less obvious is the impact each variable has. Moment of inertia increases linearly with an increase in mass but exponentially with an increase in radius. To make it relevant, if my 35s and your 37s, including wheels, are the same total weight you have a much bigger angular momentum problem to deal with than I do. You can see from this point already that accounting for angular momentum is difficult because it's based on speed. Turning your new big, heavy wheel/tire combo gets harder as you go faster so it's very difficult to account for that stress on your drive train since it changes as you accelerate. I would submit the bigger discussion here is the need for better brakes but that's a different topic. I haven't been able to find a good calculator to account for angular momentum differences with wheel/tire combos and haven't been willing to really dig down to generate an answer. Part of that is because of the speed variability. Another part is because I had had a surprisingly difficult time finding the actual weight of OEM wheels and tires. Finally, I'm not sure the difference in angular momentum makes a huge impact on the overall stress on the drive train. While The additional weight/radius of the tires is relevant, I don't know how much it matters when those wheels are still sitting under a truck that weighs over 5,000 lbs. This point is a bit speculative on my part and my instinct could be way off how in how much angular momentum affects the overall drive train forces. Real engineers, feel free to chime in here if I'm way off base. With all of that in mind, my conclusion is that changing gear ratios for new wheels and tires is hugely important because it allows you to match your differential ratio back to your transmission. The "system of systems" inside the truck were designed for a specific reason and matching your gear ratio to your new tires will get you back in that "sweet spot" the GM engineers found when they designed the truck. Using the online calculators to determine your new gear ratio based purely on the new radius or your tires is likely enough to answer the mail. Based on those calculators, I need to go to 4.10 to get back to stock. The guys that jump up and down saying 4.56 is the answer because they "like it" are potentially introducing new engineering problems in their truck by forcing all of the rotating internals to spin at a higher speed than originally intended for long periods of time. I'm not saying there aren't reasons to go to 4.56 but I would argue that gearing too low can be as risky as gearing too high if your goal is to have a safe, drive-able truck that lasts a long time. Again, I hope this is helpful and I welcome any feedback anyone has to make this info more useful.
  16. I have a 2015 Yukon Denali, it is lifted with 35’s, the lift has about 1500 miles on it now, I have had no issues up until recent. The issue is I’m getting a pretty loud metal on metal clacking or tapping noise from some where in the front diff or transmission. It is most predominate from speeds 30mph down to about 10mph. The noise will start when I let off the gas while driving to coast or slow down, it will do it intermittently at higher speeds but not near as much but it is the same issue for sure. It seems like it starts after I let off the gas and the rpms drop down to around 1200 or less in a coast. The noise will start off not as loud and progressively get louder if I coast without touching the gas. As soon as i touch the gas the noise will go away, it does not do this in manual mode only in automatic. I have had the lift looked over multiple times and now I don’t think it has anything to do with it other than the additional Strain may have caused and already underlying problem to become more profound. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated!
  17. Hello, sorry if I posted this in the wrong forum, the patient is a 2001, 1500 rear wheel drive suburban, one day i was taking off when the truck just stop, like someone slammed the brakes and a very loud like crunching metal cans and whole truck vibrating, so well i now removed the differential cover the oil came out like with metal powder mix in it no real metal shavings i believe thats normal, all the gears are ok/not broken missing or rounded, i turn the wheels everything works ok, but in the bottom i see a bunch of metal studs, I've uploaded pictures so y'all can see what i mean. can any one shine some light to see where could metal studs about the size/tall of a dime could have come from what are they???
  18. I am wanting to start changing the fluids in my truck since its so much more expensive for the dealership to do it. What fluids do y'all recommend for oil, transfer case, transmission, etc.?
  19. Hey all, I have a 2017 LT 5.3 Z71 that just turned over 10k miles. I've never had a truck under warranty so I haven't jumped into many mods yet (did an intake tube and hoping for an exhaust soon though). Trucks/jeeps I've had in the past I've upgraded the transmission pan to hold more fluid/cool better, on my Tahoe I did the same to the rear differential cover for toughness and cooling ability. I've never had a new truck but plan on holding onto it for a long time so my thoughts are longevity/preventative/bulletproofing the drivetrain. Anyone have thoughts/experience/opinions? Thanks!
  20. I've seen several conflicting reports regarding the fluid capacities on both the front and rear differentials on my 07 Avalanche. The manual does a great job specifying the gear oil types but seems to be lacking the capacities part in the "fluids and capacities" section. Anyone have a good answer for me? I sure would appreciate it!
  21. I have a 2003 Silverado LS extended cab that only burns iu from one wheel, I've done research and found out it's an open diffential since I do not have G80 in my Glove box. While doing research I found out to burnout two wheels I need to buy a G80 Eaton differential lock or a Detroit tru trac. I see people saying tru trac is better. I have no knowlege about this. G80 or Tru Trac How much will it cost for the lock and to get it installed in California? Do I have to buy the lock or a whole new axle? will I be able to burnout with two tires with G80 and Tru Trac? I haven't tried burning out just assuming. It's burning one tire since there is no G80 in my glove box i want to take this truck to truck invasion to burnout so will it also be able to drift with either the trutrac or g80?
  22. Hey all, I have a 1995 Sierra K3500 with a 14 bolt 10.5'' 4.10 30 spline rear, but it's not a posi and I'm looking to make it one the cheapest way possible. My father had a 1978 K30 with the exact same rear (14 bolt 10.5'' 4.10 30 spline) but with a posi. He ended up swapping it out with a open diff. Currently that posi unit is sitting at my Grandma's house in the shed and I'm wondering if I can use that. It is completely stock with the 4.10 still on it. So, I'm wondering if I could just take my current diff out of the cover and place the '78 unit in there no problem or is there more to it/not even possible? I'm not too familiar with rears so I'm not sure if the 17 year gap between the 2 trucks make a big difference in terms of rears. Thanks, Hawk.
  23. I have a strange noise from my 200k 07 Burb diff. No howl, locker works fine. Only happens with foot on the gas and goes away when foot is off. Sounds like cats fighting in the rear diff or a rusty brake caliper inside. I listened with a stethoscope and it seems to be coming from the rear diff cover area, but hard to tell. Wheel bearings were quiet. U joints tight and quiet. The pinion is quiet and leak free. It's smooth on the road and the diff seems a little warm after a long drive. Fluid is clean and clear and there was some Very fine metallic dust covering the magnet. I have never heard anything like this. It's almost a scraping sound. Any ideas please let me know. Carrier bearings? Pinion shaft worn? Worn pinions? It's been a highway only vehicle and serviced regularly. I have a google video of it here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hwgbHWYSxEZCRzrj2
  24. I have a 2WD 2006 Tahoe, g80 10 bolt. I replaced the differential seal and added mobil1 75w-90 to my rear differential. Taking the cover bolts off was fun. It looks like they had some kind of pink/red threadlocker on them. Once I got the cover off, the Inner edges of the cover and the differential body had mild rust, most of it wiped off with break cleaner. Razor bladed the old gasket off. I added almost 3 quarts before it started to come out of the fill hole. Took it for a drive and checked it later in the day and noticed fluid leaked out of the fill hole. Should I be concerned about that? Does the fill plug need to be torqued to the spec for it not to leak or is snug good enough? What does a differential cover leak look like? Would it drip oil and leave a puddle on the ground or would it be milder and look like a wet cover?
  25. I have an open end rear differential. I was wondering if I could switch out some gears so I could have a locking rear end, or would I have to get a whole new rear end? I have a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT 2x4 5.3 Extended cab, if that helps for you specificity oriented people.
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