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Showing results for tags 'transmission'.
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When I search my VIN it pulls up all of the info less the transmission. My scanner ask me to select which RPO "Type" trans I have. Where might I find this? These are my choices: MHS MHT M12 MQB MQC
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Hey guys. 2001 Silverado 2500HD Sounds like a bad bearing or something. 97k miles. NV4500 Hear it most prominent in 4th/5th gear but can hear faintly coasting in neutral. Also, it does the noise in every forward gear. Gets most noticeable at 40 mph + and 5th gear REALLY picks up the noise way worse than any gear. I threw it in neutral going about 50. Still heard it. And then pressed the clutch in at 50 in neutral. Still heard it. Could this be an issue with the driveshaft or something ? However, 5th gear amplifies the noise and it sounds like it is coming directly from the shifter. So I think it would have to be trans related. I’m stumped Link to video:
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Hey I have 120k miles trucks torque converter has been progressively gotten worse with the shuttering. I believe it’s time for a rebuild. I now have heard a knocking/tapping sound that is so light and high pitch I can’t hear it on video. I changed my oil about 100 miles ago and since have heard this sound coming from the oil pan/bell housing area also heard lightly infront of the truck. Does it at idle and in neutral. Not sure if it does it in drive or under load the sound is not sequential with the engines rotation. Could this be my converter? I’ve heard lifter failure and lifter knocking in my previous 5.3 trucks and it’s not like that at all. More out of time and random. If in park and I give it a little throttle the sound gets a little louder but still not in sequence with the engine. Almost a light popping sound more than a knock. Any help would be great before I spend the money on a trans and then have to turn around and rebuild the engine. -
Cliff Notes - Runs and drives in 4Lo -Only gets power to front wheels -No power to rear wheels -Only takes off after 1000rps -Does not take off in 2Hi or 4Hi -Shifts hard Possible Problems -Transfer case -Transmission -Rear dif -4x4 shift selector Ok, I'm new here and I have an issue I've never seen before. I have a 2000 Chevy GMT-400 k2500 LS that doesn't get any power to the rear drive shaft. The weird part is that it still drives in 4Lo. It only provides power to the front wheels, only takes off after 1000-1500rpms, and isn't really a smooth ride. It doesn't even take off in 2Hi or 4Hi. What I need to know is if anybody has seen this before and knows where this could be coming from. I'm thinking transfer case, transmission, or the 4x4 selecto switches. To my knowledge this truck is supposed to be mainly powered by the rear wheels so why do I only get power to the front? Note: I know it's getting power to the front because I've driven it without the rear drive shaft being connected at all. When I put the rear drive shaft back on, it drove exactly the same. I just figured if I had a bad transfer case, the front wheels would be the first to go out. Please help -
My 4l60e is starting to show its age a bit. Not ready to condemn it yet but it occurred to me that it would not be too difficult (on the scale of trans swaps) to put a NV4500 from a GMT-800 HD truck in place of my 4l60e. I've done a bunch of research on which part numbers I would need and it seems mostly manageable but I have run across something I can't find the answer to online. My NP246 transfer case has the 27 spline input shaft because it's currently hooked up to a 4l60e. The NV4500 has a 32 spline output and was never (as far as I can tell) offered with a NP246, just the NP261 it seems like. However there's a part number for a 32 spline input shaft for a NP246. If I install that input shaft, will I be able to put my NP246 behind a NV4500?
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Hope nobody minds, but I'm going to start up a Quick Reference Guide for common parts/fluids/bulbs for the T1 HD trucks. I'll try to keep it updated if anything changes. If a mod wants to sticky it, I'm down for that too. Owners Manuals Chevrolet: https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/chevrolet/silverado-2500-3500/2020-chevrolet-silverado-owners-manual.pdf GMC: https://my.gmc.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/gmc/sierra-2500-3500/2020-gmc-sierra-owners-manual.pdf Diesel Supplement: https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2020/chevrolet/multimodel/2020-6.6-duramax-diesel-supplement.pdf Oil Changes 6.6 gas L8T (VIN code "7") Capacity: 8 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF63E / 19383806 Drain Plug Size: 12X1.75X18.15 6.6 Diesel L5P (VIN code "Y") Capacity: 10 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF26 / 89017527 Drain Plug Size: 12X1.75X18.15 Engine Air Filters 6.6 Gas: A3244C / 84121219 6.6 Diesel: A3248C / 84554703 Engine Fuel Filter 6.6 Diesel L5P: TP1015 / 23304096 Interior Filters Passenger Compartment Air Filter: CF185 / 13508023 Wiper Blades Drivers & Passenger Sides: 23387857 Spark Plugs 6.6 Gas L8T: 41-114 / 12622441 Glow Plugs 6.6 Diesel L5P: 68G / 12690238 Fuel Tank Sizes 6.6 Gas L8T, All Box/Cab Configurations: 36 Gallons 6.6 Diesel L5P Double Cab Long Box/Crew Cab Standard and Long Box Configurations: 36 Gallons. 6.6 Diesel L5P Double Cab Standard Box Configuration: 29 Gallons. 6.6 Diesel L5P Regular Cab Long Box Configuration: 28 Gallons. Diesel Exhaust Fluid Tank Capacity: 7 gallons Automatic Transmission Fluid 6L90 6 Speed MYD (Gas engine): DEXRON-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid 10L1000 10 Speed MGM/MGU (Diesel engine): DEXRON ULV Automatic Transmission Fluid. Transmission Capacities (Approximate): 6L90 6 Speed MYD (Gas engine) Pan Drop: 6.0 quarts Overhaul: 10.5 quarts Complete System: 12.4 quarts 10L1000 10 Speed MGM/MGU (Diesel engine) Overhual: 20.6 quarts Complete System: 22.08 quarts Transfer Case Fluid Electronic Shift Non-Autotrac MP 1625/1626–NQF: Dexron VI Electronic Shift Autotrac MP 3025–NQH: Dexron VI Transfer Case Fluid Capacities Electronic Shift Non-Autotrac MP 1625/1626–NQF: 2.4 Quarts Electronic Shift Autotrac MP 3025–NQH: 1.6 Quarts Brake System Hydraulic Brake System (Vehicles with DOT 3 brake fluid): DOT 3 Hydraulic Brake Fluid Hydraulic Brake System (Vehicles with DOT 4 brake fluid): DOT 4 Hydraulic Brake Fluid Wheel Lug Nut Torque All Models: 140 lb-ft / 190 N-m Front Axle 9.25" Axle Lubricant: 75w85 Synthetic High Efficiency Lubricant, 10-4091 / 19300457 Capacity: 1.9 Quarts Rear Axle 11.5" Axle Lubricant:75w90 Synthetic Lubricant, 10-4016 / 88900401 Capacity: 3.17 Quarts Rear Axle 12.0" Axle Lubricant:75w90 Synthetic Lubricant, 10-4016 / 88900401 Capacity: 3.17 Quarts- 29 replies
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Has anyone else used the AMSOIL OE ATF over the Signature Series in their 8 Speed? Any issues? Looking to get a flush done soon and want to make sure the fluid is compatible. I'd rather not shell out $300 CAD for the signature series when the OE will do. Thanks. -
Hello, Borat here. I have 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 with 80,000 miles. HIGH FIVE! But it have problem. I have noticed sometimes when accelerating(on ramp getting on high way) there is a whining/gear grinding type sound. I can only force it to happen by punching the accelerator and causing it to shift from 4 or 5 into 2 or 3. It sporadically happens at low speeds but I’ve been able to replicate it happening around 70mph and hard acceleration. See video below for sound. https://youtu.be/9L2obt0J2eg -
I was driving yesterday (35-40 mph) and out of nowhere the CEL came flashing on and the display said something to the effect of (service transmission, service traction control, and forward collision system disabled/unavailable). Having not even logged 5,000mi on the ODO my stomach sank. I continued along driving and dismissed the error messages. I came up to the next red light and the CEL flashed a few more times, then went away. Absolutely zero performance issues before / during / after the warning lights / messages. I have met the forward collision system unavailable message before, but that was due to a small bit of ice on the windshield back in February. Has anyone ever run into this before? I'm in MD and the pollen has accented the onyx black paint into what looks like a bumblebee's rear end. Could excessive pollen blocking a sensor be the culprit? I love the truck (major upgrade from the 2011 Subaru), but it would be a real shame if I'm going to have to make regular trips to the dealer to fix issues like this. (i guess that's American engineering for ya). Appreciate it if anyone can share a similar experience and what ended up happening. -
Enjoy! Here's a copy of the 2007-2009 GM/GMC factory service manual for trucks. It covers trouble shooting and advice on what and how to repair/rebuild everything with torque specs. 4.3L engine to 6.6L trucks with everything form bumper to bumper... https://www.dropbox.com/s/rflvemxjpqfc4h4/Gmc_Sierra_Service_Manual_Repair_Manual_Fsm_2007-2009_Download.zip?dl=0 -
Hello everyone, Well I took my 2014 Chevy Silverado 1500 up to the dealership yesterday for transmission issues. When accelerating around 30mph the transmission makes a high whining noise around 2000 rpm almost like its slipping and the truck shakes back and forth. Then when on the interstate on cruise control around 65-70 you will hear a grinding noise every few minutes. Also when you slow down from the 60-70 mph range to around 30 mph and accelerate the grinding noise becomes more apparent. When I dropped the truck off yesterday I showed the service guy video of the grinding as well as what I believe to be slipping and he said "Yeah that sounds like it is slipping". Received a phone call this morning from the same service technician saying they were not able to replicate the issue. That the transmission guy said that is normal when it switched between V4 and V8 mode. It's amazing I have had this truck and driven it for 76000 plus miles and have never heard that whining or grind noise. I asked how long they test drove it and he said 10 minutes. I told him they need to drive it around longer and actually go on the interstate to hear and see what it is doing. This is not the first time I've taken my truck up there for transmission problems and I am not picking this truck up again until they find the issue. The first time was for rough shifting to which they said was normal. This is my first Chevy I ever have bought or owned. Bought it brand new from the dealer. I must say that with how I keep getting treated with the "can not replicate" issue as a scapegoat for not truly trying to satisfy the customer is getting old. Especially being I have videos in which you can see the rpms and hear the whine up and hear a grind noise. This will most likely be the last Chevy product I purchase. If anyone has any ideas and doesn't mind listening to the videos I have I would appreciate it. I will have to post a link to youtube since the video will be to big to post here. Thanks -
Hello all. I am a semi-frequent user of GMTrucks.com. I’ve had several cosmetic and suspension modifications to my truck (Bilstein 5100’s, roadactive suspension, hellwig rear sway bar, interior mods), nothing major in the drivetrain. I just crossed 50,000 miles, and it looks like yet another TCC failure (first one at 24,500 to 25,000 miles). It’s a 2020 Custom Trail Boss, 4.3. When the first converter failed, they ended up putting 2 thermal bypass valves in it. After the last TBV change, transmission never sees over 150°. What do I need to do to have GM put a better converter in my truck to prevent future hangups (sonnax, maybe)? How should I approach this to ensure I don’t keep losing my truck for weeks at a time? I don’t overload it, I don’t dog it, and the fluid still looks clean (changed with last thermal bypass valve at 30,000 miles, total fluid exchange and filter replacement). It seems like every 25,000 miles, I’ll be back for another torque converter. I don’t haul or tow frequently. When I do, it’s usually no more than a single axle utility trailer with some light household refuse, or an enclosed single wheel with a flat track motorcycle in it. Bike weighs 600 pounds. Tongue weight below the 1,760 payload rating on the sticker in the door. I’ve never gone more than about 40 miles when towing. Usually interstate or rural rustic road (55 mph and no traffic) Any suggestions? I really like the truck and don’t want to trade it in. It suits me for what I need, and I’ve put a lot of time and love into this machine. -
Hey i'm looking for some help on doing a transmission swap in a 2002 Chevy Silverado Here are the specs of my truck: -2002 Silverado automatic transmission -4x4 -v6 4.3 engine Could someone please let me know if I need to find a transmission with the exact year of (2002). Or will other years interchange with no modifications needed. I want to be able to simply swap them. I am getting mixed feed back from the salvage yards around my area. Most of the are saying I have to get a 2002 transmission and others are saying other years will work just fine. Apparently GM changed the part number each year so it adds the confusion perhaps. There is one salvage yard in my area that has a transmission from a 2004 and they are telling me it will work just fine. They said if anything the fly wheel might not work and they said they will provide the fly wheel with the transmission incase it doesn't fit the flywheel thats currently on my 2002 truck. Thanks for any help someone can provide!
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K2XX Trans cooling concerns
Mwalabama posted a topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra Troubleshooting
Folks with the 159’ trans thermostat, over long drives does your trans temp still climb well over the 160 mark? I drove my 17 Sierra 220 miles today and by the end of the drive it had reached 180’ in 80 degree ambient temps. I would like to think the cooling system is efficient enough to keep it lower..?.. The condenser/trans cooler was replaced a while back, but this issue happened before that. Once I parked and let it idle, it dropped to 165 in 15 minutes. I’m not concerned right now, but I will be when it gets too 100’f out (Alabama weather, yay) and I’m pulling my boat to the beach or my other truck to and from the track on the flatbed. Do y’all think I’m missing something here and I have some issue? Or is this the standard and I need to just add an external cooler? When I first swapped the 159 thermostat( when the new trans was put in) the temps stayed at 145 all the time, but it hasn’t been that way in quite a while. I even pill flipped it and all that did was make it take forever to warm up but to the same effect. Full system fluid change was done about 1k miles ago with oem filter and ac delco dex6 fluid. Trans has around 47k on it. Truck has about 127k on it. Do y’all think I’m missing something here and I have some issue? Partially plugged line? Or is this the standard and I need to just add an external cooler? Any help would be appreciated at this point.. -
I noticed my transmission temperature getting quite high when driving on trails or towing through traffic so I decided to add a secondary Derale 13900 transmission cooler in addition to the stock front mounted cooler. My truck is a 2020 Custom TB with the 5.3 and 6 speed 6l80e. This kit came with everything I needed except for a couple fittings, and the fan is wired to an ignition power source so it won't drain the battery. You can see that it is mounted to a winch mount that I had made, but without the winch there that would be a great spot to fit the cooler. Essentially I followed the return cooler line from the transmission forward until the hard lines split off into two rubber lines with the return going to the driver side of the truck. NOTE: The hard lines are 3/8" but the rubber line is 1/2" (learned that the hard way). I first held the cooler in place and measured what angle it needed to sit at and tacked together some mounts, then after a couple of iterations got it to where it fit and the skid plate did not interfere. I then finish welded, drilled, tapped, and painted the mounts. On the cooler itself, I mounted the 180 deg thermostat to the lower connection. With the cooler location determined, I then measured and cut the 3/8" rubber hose in the kit. I then clamped the return rubber line on the truck, cut the rubber hose, and connected the 3/8" cooler hoses to the pre-existing 1/2" hose on the truck. I used one 3/8-1/2 straight barbed connector and one 3/8-1/2 90 deg barbed connector. Some zip ties to tidy up the lines too. Wiring was simple as well, easiest way to get a for sure ignition power source was to get a fuse tap from autozone for a micro2 fuse and then you have a fused ignition source. Ran the power to the thermostat and then positive from motor to the other side of thermostat and the ground to the frame. The hole in the skid plate has an aluminum mesh behind it to keep small rocks out, and it's pretty high up so shouldn't see much abuse. Haven't given it a full test for cooling capability yet but the fan is nice and strong so I have no doubt it'll help. For about $200 total I'd say its a great upgrade for anyone who tows in the city or hits the trails on any steeper terrain.
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I have a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali 6.2L with the 8 speed transmission (73,000 miles). When shifting from park to drive/reverse there is a clunk and also when the truck is accelerating from low RPMs there’s a hard shift from 1-2 & 2-3 gear. I’ve taken it to the dealer multiple times and they “can’t find an issue” with it. Any help would be greatly appreciated! IMG_6286.MOV -
2019 Silverado 1500 z71 with 8K miles, 3.23 rear, 8 speed. Today I have towed about 8000lbs of cattle and trailer. I prior towed an old farmall tractor back. Both times when towing over 6000lbs, I had the transmission in L6, tow haul mode. Sometimes when taking off from a stop, it almost felt like the truck started in 2nd, not dropping down the first. Would it do that? Or is the torque converter just being floated as RPM's rise, and possibly I am not feeling the shift from 1 to 2. This transmission is crazy smooth compared to my 6 speed. Truck drives great otherwise. Ran it to town empty later, no issues. Even ran it thru the Low mode gears, and it starts in first normally. Thought maybe this was towhaul mode trying to avoid unnecessary shifting if still rolling. Transmission running cool, never over 180 even with that load at 60-70 mph. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
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I have a 2014 GMC Sierra SLT 4WD 5.3L. 3 days ago while driving home I noticed that there was a slight stutter/shudder when the truck was attempting to shift up to the next gear. It seems that it only happens when easing into the gear at a slower speed,normally around 50MPH or so,and occasionally continues to happen while maintaining those speeds. 89,000 miles on it. I bought all the stuff do change the transmission fluid and filter but was hoping somebody could give me some alternative ideas to check before diving down that rabbit hole. Really needs this fixed ASAP, I’m a firefighter and this is my vehicle I commute to work in. Thanks in advance for any help. -
I have a 2020 RST with the 3.0 LM2 Duramax with 79k miles… the flywheel failed when I was driving down the highway and left me dead in the water.. I had it towed to the dealership 4 weeks ago and they called today and said the transmission and the engine needs to be replaced. Has anyone experienced this with their trucks? I never towed anything heavy and was religious with service.. luckily all covered under the 100k powertrain warranty… -
OK everyone I want to give thanks ahead for any advice and help. Truck in question= 2003 Chevy Suburban Z71, 5.3 L Transmission= 4L60-E So the story started when I was going down the road at about 50mph in cruise control, when suddenly I heard the engine begin to rev up. I hit the brake to take it out of cruise control and the engine stopped revving up. Apparently I lost transmission of power from the engine to the wheels because no matter what gear I put it into now, I get no movement from the vehicle. No reverse and no D1, 2 or 3. When I put the vehicle in park and attempt to push the vehicle it will not roll. When placed in any other gear I can then roll the vehicle freely. Before this happened: Since owning the vehicle 4x4 has always been shifty.....hehehe...sorry couldnt help it. I have the model where there are 4 buttons with lights the buttons are located left hand of dash near the turn signal. When I first got the truck sometimes it seemed like it didnt want to switch between gears. for example I would have to hit the button multiple times before it would switch and even then it seemed like it hadnt really switched but the lights would indicate it had. Most of the time the light for the button I selected would flash multiple times and then return to previous selection. Often times after turning the vehicle off and then returning to vehicle to go somewhere I would find that the light has switched back to a gear that it wasnt in when i left the vehicle. It seems to favor 4x4hi. As of lately I havent been able to get the lights to switch at all. It seems to be stuck in 4hi permanently. I have tested the 4wd switch and its fine. I tried unhooking battery for half hour with lights on to reset PC. I then reconnected battery cable and turned vehicle on but not start it. Then I pulled a bunch of fuses and plugged them back in. ( seen it in a video and the guy said it was supposed to wake up the TCCM) Well that did nothing. I have the truck off of all wheels right now and was trying to figure out if the transfer case is stuck in neutral. With the truck in drive as I turn the rear draft the front moves also. I am assuming that means it is in 4wd. But should I have someone hold the front drive shaft while i turn the rear drive shaft to confirm its not just from friction or something. I actually have the front drive shaft partly out right now in an attempt to get at and remove the shift motor and manually put the transfer case into 2hi. I am also considering changing out solenoids. I have gathered it is unlikely the shift solenoids. Is it possible it could be one of these: 1 * EPC (Pressure Control) Solenoid 1 * PWM Solenoid 1 * Manifold Pressure Switch 1 * TCC Solenoid w/Harness Another thing I suspect which would be an easy fix is the transfer case fluid level. I removed the fill plug and nothing came out. I can tell it has been leaking. I would have already topped it off but I have been stuck at home (no running vehicle lol). Could low fluid cause this issue? I hope that's all it is lol. Anyways I got a ride to the store tomorrow and to look at a back-up vehicle. Anything you guys recommend to grab from the parts store while I'm in town tomorrow? What would be your guys recommendation on how to solve this problem and fix it? All help is appreciated. thanks in advance, Aaron -
Were working on getting an 86 k10 back on the road. The trans slips between gears and doesn't have a working OD. Does this sound like a master rebuild kit fix, or should we be looking for another trans and just swap it in. I'm sure we could work through rebuilding it, but this would be my first time trying to fix one. Anyway, just wondering what to expect. Things like, how do you know if the pump is good, torque converter, any hard parts that could be broke that would save me the cost of the rebuild kit in case I just have to replace the trans anyway...etc... Thanks! -
I am currently helping my father with his transmission rebuild for the 4l60e on a 2002 avalanche, he installed a transgo 4l60e sk shift improvement kit along with adding a corvette servo. he installed a cam on the 5.3 and the engine runs flawlessly and for the transmission he added a 3000 stall converter. the transmission will shift into reverse fine and will shift into second with using the manual shift, however the transmission will not shift into drive. the valve body has been checked over and over again and everything seems to be in place. Has anyone else had this issue or know what may cause this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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I have a 1988 GMC G3500 Vandura Box truck with 350 5.7L TBI. I am renovating it to be an RV. bought new motor and had a mechanic I know and trust do that and a bunch of other stuff. It drives great. Runs great and shifts great; EXCEPT when I need to down shift to pass another vehicle or going up a mountain here in West Virginia (and there are allot of them, lol). My son is a mechanic but in Alabama. I texted back and forth and he mentioned the things I put as tags. TPS, modulator and adjusting the TV cable. I have the service manual and two other manuals. Anyone else have the same or similar problems? I downshift by using the shifter on the column. any help is greatly appreciated. email is: [email protected]. -
2017 1500 SLT, 52kmiles, stock other than GM/Borla. Truck is never used for towing, but is my daily driver. I noticed recently there is an "odd" upshift between 2nd and 3rd at random times. Usually after driving for a while. Took it in to the dealer who says all is good, no burned fluid and can't duplicate the issue--they say they took it up to ~190. I drove the truck about 470 miles this weekend on vacation after dealer cleared it, but monitored the tranny temps more closely and noticed on the long highway drive with minimal cargo/passengers temp is sitting around 225-232. Ambient temps in the upper 90's. This seems high to me with very little load, but I never really paid attention to temps prior to the shifting issue... so no baseline to compare to. What temps are expected/normal?- 8 replies
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