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Showing results for tags 'thermostat'.
Found 11 results
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Okay so I broke my foot a last month so my truck has been sitting during the winter. Just recently the check engine light has came on. I used my code reader and is said the thermostat was running cold. And the engine fan automatically comes on and stays on for a little even after I turn the truck off. My question is there a simple fix to this? Or would this require a replacement? -
Hey guys, I did the thermal bypass conversion to active by pass on my 2018 8L90. Did a step by step video because I hadn’t seen anybody do an actual full replacement video nor had I seen one on a 8 speed. Trans runs about 45 degrees cooler now. Check it out and let me know what you think. It’s the exact same procedure on 6 speeds just mounts different on the transmission.- 12 replies
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I want to start by saying i understand i am working my truck a tad hard. And I AM going to continue. I just want to protect it as much as possible while doing that. I have a 2014 silverado with the 4.3 v6. 102,000 miles and never a problem. Owned since new. When i haul heavy up gravel roads my tranny gets hot like....220-240. I am a carpenter and pull materials and box trailers. I installed a snow plow this year which is snow moving so not a lot of air moving past radiator. I have hit 250 before. I had the transmission flushed at 50,000 and again at 100,000. But i would like to get my temps down. I am thinking an aftermarket fan? An additional tranny cooler? From what i read the tranny cooler is basically built into the radiator. And because the engine runs so hot you wont get too much cooling ability. Also it dosnt start actively cooling until 190? So i guess i need to adjust my thinking to the trucks 190 and up temperature range. But I am not happy with 230 for hours on end. I dont plow commercially just a few small drive ways. Any technical advice, not just opinions(lol) would help.
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Earlier in the week my check engine light came on and I saw the P0700 and P0711 which lead me to Transmission Fluid Sensor issues and people having to replace them. I started monitoring the sensor and noticed it didn't fail like most other people but it takes an awful long time to warm up only peaking at 150F whereas previously it seemed to always be near 200. It took about 45 minutes of driving to get into the 140's and only passed 150F after another hour of driving after that. As I learned the thermostat is only supposed to open up at 192F so I believe mine is stuck open. I will see if the dealer will give this under warranty but I'm curious, anyone do thermostat deletes and regret it? From what I read, the TCM wants 200F or close to it for better shifts and this is why the thermostat is there in the first place. On the other hand, living in a warmer climate where it doesn't usually get below 40-50F, could leaving this thermostat open extend the transmission life?
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Temperature gauge jittering ?
rwh531 posted a topic in 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 Platform
Recently replaced my Thermostat and water pump and radiator cap now I notice the temperature gauge jitters around regardless of if the engine is cool or warm. there is also a pinhole leak in the radiator near the oil cooling inlet hose. Before I get a diagnosis/opinion I feel I should state the radiator has that Bars Copper flake stop leak in it and I tried to patch the leak on the outside using JB Weld (neither of which worked) My theories are #1 The Stop Leak has somehow stopped the thermostat from completely closing or the thermostat was faulty when installed (thermostat been installed for a month and this problem has only been happening for 3 days) #2 the radiator leak is causing it (yet again the leak has been present much longer than the gauge jitter. #3 there is air stuck in the cooling system. Going to replace the thermostat this weekend and the radiator within the next month but wanted to ask is there anything else that could be causing this issue -
At random times my "low coolant" light comes on. The temp gage will show around half way 220 I think. Just had the oil changed and everything looked normal. I check the coolant and it shows normal. Any idea. 2001 gmc sierra 1500.
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99 Silverado, 198k miles, original pump and thermostat and the pump started leaking. I'm going to replace. Looks like a 4 hour job for a non-pro, you guys agree? While I'm in there, I'm thinking I should replace serpentine belt and thermostat since they are originals. One major question I have: does the new pump typically come with a gasket plate or do I have to buy gaskets separately? Also, gaskets on dry or with sealer? thanks, chris -
Gents, I've got a head scratcher. My 2000 Suburban 2500 is displaying some strange heater/cooling system issues. Last week my heater started going cold while at idle or lower rpm. As i get past 40, the heat instantly gets hotter and then back to lukewarm at stoplights and such. I haven't seen any of the typical water pump indicators. There's no antifreeze smell or puddle on the floor and the truck still maintains perfect temp while driving. I threw in a new thermostat and topped off the dexcool. The radiator and coolant are only about 6 months old. Aside from the loss of coolant from swapping the t-stat, the system was full. To add to the head scratching, while I was at a stoplight this morning and my front heat started to go cold, I felt the rear vents and they were as hot as could be. So, all signs are pointing to good flow from the water pump. Since the condition appears to be rpm dependent, I'm thinking water pump. But without any of the typical indicators, it doesn't seem to be the culprit. And since I do get hot air on occasion, the air blender door doesn't make sense, as I've got good modulation from hot to cold. A broken heater core doesn't fit either, as that would have been an easy one to diagnose. I'm thinking maybe a partially blocked heater core. To me it makes the most sense, as I would assume the faster the water pump spins, the more it's able to overcome whatever blockage is present. Or am I just thinking about it too much and I should just throw on another water pump and see what happens?
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Hi, I have a 2000 GMC Sierra with a 5.3L. Last year the temperature gauge on the truck started to read a high temperature, I changed the thermostat and topped up coolant and never had the problem again. Until recently, the gauge started to read high again (not overheating though). I'm finding that at low speeds (40km/h and below) the temperature reads normal. As I got higher (up to 90km/h) the temperature starts to raise from 95-115. then cools right down when I come to a complete stop. Now the weird part of it is that whn I go on the highway the temperature will rise as i accelerate onto the highway, then after a couple minutes over 100km/h, the temperature falls right back down to normal. Then when I come off the highway, slowing down to anything under 80km/h the temperature rises again. Why could this be? Thermostat? Waterpump? Coolant? Cursed? I'm lost..
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Hello everybody I would like to replace my thermostat on 2007 GMC Savana 3500 6.6 Duramax. I would like to get help if one of you know where thermostat located?? I loooked at you tube but I am not sure will be the same most of them in you tube are pick up trucks. Thank you very much in advance.
