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Showing results for tags 'tune'.
Found 24 results
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Exactly as the title states, RunVSE has released emissions compliant tuning for the LM2 Duramax in the Sierra and Silverado platform (pre-refresh). https://runvse.com/2020-2022-3-0l-lm2-duramax-emissions-compliant/ https://youtu.be/lGBM54eJ1Vw -
Truck has dod delete with stage 3 cams and no more cats as well as being dyno tuned and programmed by the company that did the work on the heads. I've put about 30000 miles on the truck since all that work and other than struggling to get over 13 miles to the gallon I've loved every mile of it. It's been tuned to have 93 octane fuel as well as octane boost in each tank. I have done exactly that and the big crew cab, 4wd, 6 inches of lift with 35×12.50r20s would get up and go and not stop unless you get scared. But then someone puts 83 octane in and all hell brakes loose. Even after 4 full tanks of 93 octane and boost the truck lacked power and when in higher gears at low rpm is is extremely jerky when you accelerate. It also started getting stuck in 3 or 4th gear and the check engine light was #5 transmission solenoid stuck open. After clearing the code ot would shift normally. It has come back on twice but each time I just unplugged the battery for a couple minutes and the light reset and it shifts regularly again. I changed plugs and wires and mass airflow but no change. Where do I go from here? -
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Ok first I want to apologise if this thread has been done. I just started my account today. So I bought a 2016 Silverado 1500 LT Z71 4x4 with 37k miles a few days ago. It has a 5 or 6 in RC lift and 35x12.50r20 MasterCraft courser MXT tires on it. And the Hostile predator wheels. My question is, I don't know if the truck has been geared. Tuned. Or calibrated by the previous owner. The dealership doesn't know. The truck doesn't feel "sluggish" to me personally. I drive past the digital speed trap in my town and if I'm doing 30 on my guages the reader says 31-32... On the highway at 70mph my tach reads the notch under 2k.. so 1800?.. when cruising at 30-35 my tach reads around 1100-1200. I find I get in town with A LOT of stopping and going around 13mpg and that's driving very conscious. I notice it shifts around 2500 and then lower in the higher gears like 2000 then 1500.. but seems to chug along nicely around that 1200 mark. Also. My V4 mode has never turned on once. Not sure if that's due to the current cold northern Ohio climate right now. Or if the previous owner has a tune on it and disabled that feature. I just don't want to spend the money on a tune and calibration if I don't have to. When I floor it it gets up and goes fast imo. I don't floor it often at all. It doesn't pull or tow or haul much. I'm a maintenance engineer in a flat Ohio town of 50k ppl. So I don't think I'll regear because it won't be working too hard. If I could get some folks to shed some light on my curiosity I would greatly appreciate it. If all else fails. I'm buying a good tuner I guess... Thanks guys. -
My warranty recently expired on my 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3L and I was wondering if anyone could recommend a tuner for my year truck. I drive about a 100 miles a day at time and would like to get a little more mpg. I have access to 93 in my area as well. Any help is appreciated.
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I’m looking for a tuner or some sort that will provide me with some additional live data. Not really looking for a tune since I have a powertrain warranty through the dealer I bought from. Unless I can tune it and return it back to factory without the ecm registering that there was a tune on the truck.
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So I'm not sure if related to my tuner but reading through a lot of other posts and nobody has actually found an answer. My truck is tuned for my 35" tall tires so that the speedometer is correct. Anyways here is whats going on, I can set cruise control at 67mph, bump it up to 85mph but even if I bump it up to 68 once it hits 68mph it cancels cruise control. At 67mph it will stay on. Has anyone found a fix? Do I need to get rid of the tune and put an inline correction for the speedo? As I said, I'm tuned with a bullydog at 34.8inch tires, not sure if this problem was before or after the tune. -
Hi Guys. John here with a 2014 gmc sierra 5.3L. I just got my hptuners gear in the mail. I loaded everything up and I didnt realize the complexity would be so intense. I want to tune for elimination of emissions and hp gains, improved throttle response, and anything else restricting the hp of this motor. I am very fluent with a laptop as I program PLCs invthe industry so taking this on is right up my ally. Any help would be greatly appreciated -
Hi Guys. John here with a 2014 gmc sierra 5.3L. I just got my hptuners gear in the mail. I loaded everything up and I didnt realize the complexity would be so intense. I want to tune for elimination of emissions and hp gains, improved throttle response, and anything else restricting the hp of this motor. I am very fluent with a laptop as I program PLCs invthe industry so taking this on is right up my ally. Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Found out I need to replace my fuel system control module In my 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 , I bought the truck which has a after market turbo charger in it but if there is a tune on the truck and the FSCM needs to be programmed to the vin number will it still work properly if I install a new one like that ? Or will I need to get the new fuel module programmed differently ? I also am under the idea that it may be the reason the last one went anyway -
I just rolled over 30k miles on my cc4wd, '16 with the 5.3, and 8 speed. I have read more than a handful of people recommending getting a tune (usually when the warranty runs out)...so this is my first post about that...before I really start my research, I wanted to get some real life experiences and expectations... I get that i can make my truck run like a banshee...but I don't need a hot rod...I just want to get optimal power and optimal MPG under normal driving...I rarely tow anything...and I drive pretty conservatively... in my scenario...would you still recommend a tune? what can I expect to get out of one? is there any that are the best value, what about getting a tune off the shelf verses going to a shop and getting it done? if I lose any mpg's it probably wouldnt be worth it...so I need to at least stay the same or improve...so keep that in mind... any insight and opinions would be appreciated!
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I Purchased my 2015 silverado z71 crew cab a couple months ago, so far i love the truck accept for one issue that shows itself every once in a while. USUALLY while turning and acceleration lightly at the same time ( lugging the motor pretty much) ill get a very noticable shudder right before the truck FINALLY decides to downshift. Has anyone had a similar issue. Im going to drives my buddies sierra tomorrow and see if i get the same shudder. I have 3600 miles on this truck so i dont think its anything to do with the "adaptive" transmission learning cycle. Ive heard a custom tune can resolve issues but i really hate to do that on this new of a truck, nor do i have anywhere within 400 miles to get it done. New to the forum guys, hope to get some responses, this is my first GM product. Switched from a 2008 tundra with 245000 trouble free miles. Hope i dont regret this purchase -
I've got a 2014 GMC Sierra L83 single cab... I recently decided its time I start getting some performance out of my truck. I installed: L86 Thottle body and intake manifold 1 7/8 header + full 3 inch exhaust (magnaflow muffler) Stage 2 GPI cam kit + DOD Delete Transmission Oil cooler I had the car dyno tuned and everything went perfect. We later had a few trial runs on the street and hit issues with sort of a misfire at specific rpms and gears... 2nd gear at 4,200ish rpm it would have a slight nudge and again at 5,200ish another drop and kick. It would happen almost all the time. We thought it would be the spark plug cables, went and got MSD plug cables added those, tried again, same thing! Spark plugs are new, fuel injectors are serviced with zero issues... the car ran perfectly before we did all of this... The tuner now tried raising the oil pressure in the transmission thinking its a gear slippage due to the oil pressure. Tried again, same thing!! We've ruled out alot of the problems, now theyre saying that its the disc thats slipping in the transmission which would make sense but I want to get ideas as I'm spending money trying to fix the issues that we're not a 100% sure about. Can you guys let me know if anyone went through anything remotely similar or if you have any views on the matter. Many thanks!!!!
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So I'm getting a leveling kit installed on my truck soon and thinking about running 33x12.55R20. Anyone running 33's and how does your shift points feel? Also is anyone making an exhaust for the 3.0 duramax or a tuner? Any information will help.
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Has anyone ever got a custom tune to delete the AFM on their truck? I contacted my dealership about it and they gave me a local tuners number. I understand that it could possibly void my warranty if deleting the AFM causes a problem. But has anyone deleted their AFM and had issues? As well what cost should I expect to see to have a tuner delete the AFM.
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Hey guys and gals I was hoping y’all could answer a question of mine. I currently own a 2019 Silverado trail boss with the 5.3 and 6 speed transmission. A mechanic told me the transmission is a ticking time bomb if I do any performance mods. Such as a cam swap and tune. So I explained my plan for the future. Cold air intake, flow master exhaust, headers, tune and cam swap. He said if I do any of the big changes to the engine the tranny may go out. The reason why is because the stock transmission was only made to handle the stock HP and TQ. Have any of y’all had an issue like this after some big performance mods? -
Up for sale is my DiabloSport inTune i2 I2030. This tuner will come with 2 unlocked GM licenses for you to use. Works perfectly fine and is completely up to date. With 2 licenses, you can tune your truck and just sell it without losing a dime. Picked up a 2019 and don't have a use for this anymore. Please don't hit me with lowball offers. Each additional GM license was $100 alone. If you only need a single license then use it and sell it to a buddy, or charge him for a tune. Price is $220 shipped to contiguous US.
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Hello, I got a question about re gearing from 3.42 to 4.11. is it necessary to get the tune/ speedometer calibrated ? My truck 2018 Z71 5.3 6speed 3.42 gears. I got a 8" lift with 35 /12.5/20. The actual tire measures 34.5 x 13.25. I don't want to void the factory warranty by plugging in a tuner if possible but I would hate to cause more damage by not tuning also. Thanks
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Thinking about doing an intake, exhaust, and tune to my new-to-me 2017 Sierra 1500 5.3L 8 speed. I miss the throttle response my 2013 6.2L had, it would lurch forward at the slightest tap of the gas. I also want to hear the engine, its so quiet! Cold air intakes seem to be disputed for having any performance gains, so are they really worth the $$$ in terms of better air flow? healthier engine? sound? any words of wisdom? Your $0.02 is always appreciated! I'm looking at the Magnaflow 15267 catback as it seems to sound pretty good for what I'm going for. I've read that there is a flap in the factory exhaust system that creates back pressure for AFM shift into V4 mode. I do like V4 mode and would not want to go away with it. How can a catback system integrate this feature? Also, what would be the rough performance improvements if any from a catback exhaust? Any other options that would sound similar and perform better/keep V4 mode for around the same price as Mgnaflow (~$800)? As for the tune, I know ZERO about tuning but do want to get rid of the rev limiter, speed limiter, get some performance gains without having to put midgrade or premium fuel in. How does the tuning process work? about how much do they cost? how can it be adjusted in the future? I assume anything like this would void some sort of warranty? Anyone do something similar and can attest to their experience with an intake, tune, exhaust? -
Truck details Make/Model: GMC Sierra Year: 2014 Engine: 5.3L L83 Trim: Work truck (blue blood truck right here) Transmission: 6-speed w/ 4 wheel drive Gears: 3.42 Miles on truck: ~53k Miles driven on tune: ~3k Performance Mods: None, apart from the tune of course Other mods: bed cover, remote start, tailgate damper Tuner: Diablo Intune I2 Truck role: Getting to/from work and doing work. Have another car for long trips Background I purchased a Diablosport Intune I2 for my previous vehicle, 08 Colorado I5. The tuner for that truck was the best investment I ever made, especially for the transmission tune. Lightning-quick shifts, more power, better throttle response, no complaints. That truck has since left my life, needed something with more payload, in comes the Sierra... Intro The truck commutes 15 miles per day for work and is otherwise a weekend warrior. About 80% city, 20% highway driving. Had no complaints with how the truck drove, until I started noticing an occasional downshift "clunk" when going around corners between 20-30 mph. Then, I remembered how awesome the I2 made my Colorado transmission. Said, "Screw it, lets tune this thing and see if the problem goes away." So I purchase the extra license for my i2, install the canned 87 octane/firm shift tunes, and go out for a drive... Big mistake. The canned transmission tune was QUITE bad. Started investigating, lots of complaints on the Diablosport forums, only solution is to try a Diablew tune. So, $150 and 3k miles later, here we are! The Process Contact Diablew with your information, wait 5 seconds for him to respond, pay the man, follow the instructions, profit (for him... and you, eventually). Don't want to cover this too much as it's not that interesting. Onto the tune! The Tune One engine and one transmission tune provided with tweaks available upon request. The engine tune can be provided for the octane of your choice, but keep in mind that the 87 and 89 octane tunes are the same with no spark advance provided for 89 (ie. might as well run 87 unless you tow in high temps, or just request the 91+ tune). The engine tune, after driving 150-ish miles... wow, I like it. Noticeable power increase in the low end (around 1.5k rpms). Feels better across the board. On the stock tune, I was getting random blips of knock retard on mobil gas, even 89 octane. The Diablew engine tune has yet to register ANY knock retard on 87 mobil. Better for the engine, more power, can't complain. The V4 mode was also disabled, though I did not have an issue with V4 (part of the "Cannot notice it's even working" club, which only has 7 or so members on this forum). MPGs are about the same, pedal feel is spot-on, spins the tires too easily (not a complaint, unless its raining) The transmission tune, on the other hand... it's not bad, but not for me. This was the primary reason why I wanted to tune in the first place, but I am a bit disappointed as a transmission tune made my Colorado (by comparison) FAR better than stock. The tuned transmission on this truck shifts a tad later (which I felt wasn't necessary) and also *tries* to shift firmer. I say "tries" because the firmness is random. When the transmission tune shifts firmly across all gears, I love it. But, the inconsistency breaks it for me. It also does NOT shift faster than stock, or at least not noticeably so. After searching through tune forum posts for this truck, it seems like everyone has had a different experience and probably no fault to Lew as a tuner, just that the truck has a silly transmission. No improvements after 3k miles of driving on this transmission tune, either. Remember that downshift clunk when taking turns around 20-30 mph? Since the transmission now shifts harder, the flaws are more pronounced. I reverted back to stock and due to the additional engine power in the low end, I think it makes the stock tune that much better. Due to the higher shift points, I feel that this tune would make more sense for a truck with the 3.08 gears (vs. my 3.42) as many people with 3.08's seem to hate the shift points. The tune is worth a shot no matter what, but my truck did not like it, unfortunately. I gave the Diablew TCM tune another shot. After the paint-stick-gas-pedal mod, this tune has definitely improved. Lew says its the adaptive transmission just doing its thing (more the reason to shove something up behind that gas pedal, the truck just performs better all around). The upshifts are much better, driveability all around is "as it should be" and the shift speed is definitely better than stock. Shifts fast and smooth. The only complaint I had was with the downshifting. When approaching a stoplight, the truck felt like it had a less-aggressive engine brake, causing me and my passengers to lunge forward. After asking Lew to modify the downshifts to be less-aggressive, I loaded the new TCM tune and all is well. I have changed my review to reflect that the TCM tune takes some time to adjust, but combined with the gas pedal mod, its totally worth it. Just be wary of how your truck behaves on the downshifts and notify Lew accordingly. Final thoughts Want more power for only a few hundred clams? Get a Diablewtune. More power than the canned tunes, less knock retard, and will take advantage of engine mods. Certainly try the transmission tune as "your mileage may vary" (har har), but the engine tune alone was worth it. Estimated gains from Lew are 12-39 HP, 10-35 lb-ft of torque, and +0-3 mpgs (all of which are mod dependent). Since I have no mods, I am happy with an additional 12HP/10lb-ft. Feel free to ask any questions! -
I think I've narrowed my tuner purchase down to one of these two options. What do you guys think and why? Got a better option? I'm all ears.
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From the album: Truck
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From the album: Truck
