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I've got a 2014 GMC Sierra L83 single cab... I recently decided its time I start getting some performance out of my truck. I installed: L86 Thottle body and intake manifold 1 7/8 header + full 3 inch exhaust (magnaflow muffler) Stage 2 GPI cam kit + DOD Delete Transmission Oil cooler I had the car dyno tuned and everything went perfect. We later had a few trial runs on the street and hit issues with sort of a misfire at specific rpms and gears... 2nd gear at 4,200ish rpm it would have a slight nudge and again at 5,200ish another drop and kick. It would happen almost all the time. We thought it would be the spark plug cables, went and got MSD plug cables added those, tried again, same thing! Spark plugs are new, fuel injectors are serviced with zero issues... the car ran perfectly before we did all of this... The tuner now tried raising the oil pressure in the transmission thinking its a gear slippage due to the oil pressure. Tried again, same thing!! We've ruled out alot of the problems, now theyre saying that its the disc thats slipping in the transmission which would make sense but I want to get ideas as I'm spending money trying to fix the issues that we're not a 100% sure about. Can you guys let me know if anyone went through anything remotely similar or if you have any views on the matter. Many thanks!!!!
John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 11-15-2016 Chevy is introducing a new trim and styling package for the Spark mini-car. The new look will add non-functional trim intended to imitate off-road crossover components. As Chevy says, the new Spark ACTIV will incorporate "...trail-inspired accents and upscale features that complement its urban-chic design." For example, the Spark ACTIV will have decorative, non-functional skid plates Chevy calls "...front and rear fascias with accents influenced by off-road skidplates." These will be augmented by rocker moldings. Items that may, in fact, have some soft-road benefits include a suspension raised by 10 mm (0.4 inches for those who don't mentally translate calibers). There are also integrated fog-lights and roof rails. Aside from these off-road-looking parts, the ACTIV trim has heated seats and a rear-view camera added. What say you GM-Trucks.com faithful? Cool appearance package, or disappointingly artificial?
I've been having some weird problems with my truck lately. Recently I started getting the P1870 code indicating a slipping transmission component. I had noticed some issues with the transmission, but mostly in reverse. Not the hard shifts between 1st and 2nd that most people experience. At any rate, I've purchased the Transgo 4L60E Shift Kit. It's on its way. While I'm waiting for the kit to arrive, I have started experiencing other strange issues. I'm getting many different codes, but not all at the same time. I've seen P1345 (Camshaft to Crankshaft Position Correlation), P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold), P1351 (ICM Circuit High Input Condition), P0118 (Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input), P0131 (O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage, Bank 1 Sensor 1). A little background... Back in the summer, I had to replace the timing chain because a new starter caused the old one (which was very loose) to skip a tooth or two. During the diagnostic process to determine that the timing chain was the reason it wouldn't start, the distributor was removed. When my son put it back in, he must've put it in a tooth off. Since then I've been driving around with a P1345. I recently had that fixed at a local shop (after I had tried several times to correct it myself -- I was happy to see that he was having the same issues that I did. $50 well spent). Just before I took the truck into the shop, the P1870 started showing up. I would clear it and it would come right back within a few minutes of driving. Fortunately I was able to get the truck to pass inspection anyway. Even though the timing was fixed (I saw it on the screen myself. It was dialed in to 0 degrees.) I haven't noticed any kind of performance (or gas mileage increase). During the whole time that the timing was off, I was getting about 5 mpg less and it would struggle to get up to speed. I would eventually get up to highway speed (65mph) and it would cruise along just fine. Starts from a stop seemed to be an issue. After the timing was fixed, I still have the same problem. Maybe the catalytic converter is a bit clogged (I had been driving for almost a year with a rich condition because the fuel injection spider was leaking -- I eventually fixed it, but shortly afterwards, I would occasionally get the P0420 code.) Another issue was the coolant temperature sensor. I had replaced it, but when I crimped on the new pigtail, I think I may have squeezed too hard and messed up one of the splice connections. Every once in a while, when I'm driving, the truck would suddenly act like it was about to stall and then it would return to normal. Then it would do it again. I cranked up my Torque app on my Android phone and saw that the coolant temperature was -40F! I wiggled the pigtail wire and everything would go back to normal until it decided to do it again. The other night, while I was driving home from a late night job, the truck started doing something strange. I was driving down the highway at 65mph when, all of a sudden, there was a lack of power. The engine was running at 1000rpm but the speedometer kept going down. When I would press the gas pedal I would hear some popping sounds (kinda like a backfire). I was able to coast into the parking lot of the nearby mall. What I noticed was that IF I didn't press the gas pedal, the engine would idle at 1000rpm in drive and would actually move the truck through the parking lot at 20mph. Once I stopped it and put it in park, and then barely applied the gas pedal, the engine would threaten to stall. I was getting all of the codes listed above. In the Torque app, I was seeing that the O2 sensors were zeroed out. They weren't showing anything. Eventually, the O2 sensors would start reporting voltages again and when I pressed the gas pedal, the engine would usually rev up as expected. Sometimes it would struggle, but eventually it would do it. I turned the engine off (so I could do some online researching). After about half an hour, I tried to start it again, but it wouldn't start. It would turn over just fine, and I could tell that it was occasionally sparking, but it just wouldn't start. I couldn't hear if the fuel pump was pressurizing because of the nearby highway traffic noise. Eventually I got it to start by standing on the gas pedal. Once it started, it did the same thing as before -- it would threaten to stall when the gas pedal was pressed. Just so you know... The O2 sensor just before the cat was replaced a couple years. I've replaced the coolant temperature sensor recently (I replaced the sensor, but not the pigtail). About a month ago, I replace the Ignition Control Module because the truck absolutely not start. It would turn over and barely spark. After quite a bit of troubleshooting with a multi-meter, I determined that the problem was the ICM. I replaced it and the truck started right up. Sooooo... Why is the truck all of a sudden throwing codes, at the same time, for components that I've replaced within the past couple of years? It doesn't make any sense. The mechanic has mentioned that he *thought* that *maybe* the passenger side O2 sensor might be going out because of what he saw on his scanner. But still, why would all the other codes be showing up? I've got an idea, I would just like somebody to confirm it for me. The truck is in the mall parking lot about 25 miles from me. Tomorrow I'm going to have it towed to a shop for them to diagnose and repair the situation. I need to get this thing running soon because it's my only mode of transportation. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your input. lrbarrios
I own a 2007 Chevy Classic Silverado V6 2WD. 128,000 miles. Never had any starting issues. I went to start it this morning and it cranked but would not start. Sounded like it would catch a couple of times.Battery went dead after several tries. Charged the battery. It has a full tank of gas. Checked a plug wire and got spark. Got spark at the coil but it looked like thespark was at the base so I replaced the coil. No change. Poured alittle gas in the throttle body. Nothing. Let things dry out for awhile then tried starting by spraying some starter fluid. Nothing. Turned the key and listened for the fuel pump several times. It goes on each time. Gas came out of the line when I pushed the inline valve in but I did not check the pressure. A fuel delivery problem doesn't make sense to me because nothing happens when I spray starter fluid in the throttle body with the air filter intake removed. I checked various fuses and all were fine. I plan to put a new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs in tomorrow. I did have a P0036 error code which I think is a sensor. I don't think that would prevent the truck from starting but I'm not sure. Any suggestions?