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What is better than a detailed write up? A detailed video This is a multi part, step-by-step series where we are fully deleting the Active Fuel Management (AFM) / Displacement on Demand (DOD) system from my 2014 Silverado with the 5.3L. This process is the same for most Silverados, Sierras, Tahoes, Yukons, and Suburbans made after 2006. Note that Parts 5C - 9 are still being filmed and edited and this will be updated as they become available Try anything shown in these videos at your own risk - we are not professional mechanics and this is only designed to be a helpful reference, not a how to guide - always check with a certified mechanic before doing any work on your vehicle and make sure you are working in a safe environment AFM DOD Delete Part 1 - 2014 Silverado 5.3L Baseline Dyno - How Much Power Does It Make? In this Video we are cover the baseline dyno numbers my truck made before modifying the vehicle. We will re-dyno the truck after adding the stage 1 Cam and ported heads from GPI. Once we know how much more power is made with those modifications, we will be adding the 6.2L intake manifold, throttle body, and AirRaid air intake and dynoing the truck again to see how much additional power is made. Note that we ran into some issues with the dyno run that we weren't expecting simply due to our lack of knowledge of the automatic transmission in 2014 Silverado. The dyno run was conducted from 1st through 3rd. Unfortunately, I have not yet received any additional Dyno graphs of my run except for the one shown in the video. My Truck made an a Max HP at the wheels of 333 HP and 364 Torque in 3rd Gear. Due to transmission gearing and the rear in the vehicle, My numbers are likely around 30HP higher than they should be. It is also important to note that the vehicle is factory limited to 95MPH. From the research I have done it appears this is put in place to protect the driveshaft. Here is another run that was shared with me that shows the full first through third pull on a 5.3 and should be useful for comparison: AFM DOD Delete Part 2 - 2014 Silverado 5.3L L83 - What Parts Do You Need? All of the parts for the AFM delete were purchased from Gwatney Performance Innovations (GPI) - NOT A SPONSORED VIDEO SERIES - ALL PARTS WERE PURCHASED. The components for deleting AFM are listed below in this description. Since much of the motor is being disassembled for this process, I also decided to upgrade some of the other components such as ported heads, 6.2 L86 intake manifold, throttle body, and an airaid air intake. Parts (Amazon Affiliate Links): GPI 2007-2013 LS DOD Delete Kit: https://cutt.ly/crwZoya GPI 2014+ 5.3 (L83) DOD Delete Kit: https://cutt.ly/OrwZpzL GPI 2014+ 6.2 (L86) DOD Delete Kit: https://cutt.ly/xrwZan6 These kits include options for the following components with my selection on the right: GPI Camshaft - Low Lift Stage 1 Valve Springs - GM Perf. LT1 Springs Lifters - Chevy Perf. set of 16 Phaser Limiter Head Gasket - Chevy Perf. Cylinder Head Bolt Kit - ARP 6.2 Gen 5 LT1 Lifter Trays - Chevy Perf. Cam Bolt - Chevy Perf. Harmonic Balancer Bolt - Chevy Perf. DoD Oil Blockoff Plugs HP Fuel Pump Lash Cap Crank Seal - Fast Fish RTV Sealant Trunion Upgrade - CHE Kit GPI Tuning Services **** Additional Parts You should consider replacing **** Push Rods - 3/8" Hardened Pushrods for Gen 5 LT - 7.850 https://gwatneyperformance.com/product/gpi-38-hardened-pushrods/ HP Fuel Line 12677004: https://amzn.to/2XrsHf8 Timing Chain 12646386: https://amzn.to/2L4GmS1 Timing Chain Tensioner 12630107: https://amzn.to/39Hone6 ARP Exhaust Manifold Bolts 134-1104: https://amzn.to/2SzZWJN ACDelco 41-114 Spark Plugs (x8): https://amzn.to/2vFrggX Gaskets: Oil Pan Port Seal 12621086 (x2) https://amzn.to/2vFpYm7 Oil Pump / Front Oil Pan Seal 12666993: https://amzn.to/325JzHY VLOM (Oil Valley Cover Plate) Gasket: Valve Cover Gaskets 12619787: https://amzn.to/2HBmfIK Exhaust Manifold Gasket 12657093 (x2)https://amzn.to/39KDaoe Intake Manifold Gaskets 12626354 (x8)https://amzn.to/2Y1hZJg Water Pump Gaskets 12657430 (x2)https://amzn.to/37NB2vR Vacuum Pump Gasket 12639010: https://amzn.to/2XUvXgT Sealers / Lube: RTV: Thread Sealer: https://amzn.to/2HzwSMq Blue Thread Locker: https://amzn.to/324pMc6 Red Thread Locker: https://amzn.to/321Ttup ARP Torque Lube 100-9909: https://amzn.to/2uWFM3N Assembly Lube: https://amzn.to/2OYVm5x **** I am also upgrading the following components **** 6.2 Intake Manifold and Throttle Body: shorturl.at/suvI5 GPI L83 Ported Heads: shorturl.at/ejnE7 Note: the only difference between the two air intakes is the size of the connecting tube. GPI confirmed that the 5.3 connecting tube will fit the 6.2 TB with a lot of force and lubricant. Airaid Intake 5.3 (L83): https://amzn.to/2XVCdEU Airraid Intake 6.2 (L86): https://amzn.to/33rnnqV AFM DOD Delete Part 3 - How to Remove 2014-2018 Silverado Sierra 5.3L and 6.2L Motor L83 L86 In this video we are showing how to pull the L83 5.3L from my vehicle and this process should be very similar to the L86 6.2L. This process should directly apply to the 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra. Tools Needed (Amazon Affiliate Links): The Milwaukee Impact Is a MUST HAVE for this job and stands up to all of the abuse I put it through. It is by far the best tool purchase I've made and has a small enough body that I can fit it just about anywhere. Milwaukee MLW2861-20 Mid-Torque Impact Wrench (M18 Fuel 1/2") Tool Only: https://amzn.to/34k4R48 Milwaukee Impact Full Kit (With Battery): https://amzn.to/2PD06xq Here are a few 90 Degree Drill Adapters. I have used the Dewalt one extensively - This is definitely a must have tool as well. Dewalt 90 Degree Drill Adapter: https://amzn.to/2PD0njW Milwaukee 49-22-8510 Right Angel Drill Attachment: https://amzn.to/2PiXYfi ARES 70790 | Right Angle Driver: https://amzn.to/2RPYfZ0 Fly Wheel Flex Plate Holder Locking Tool: https://amzn.to/2PKNOD0 (From the Q&As on the product, it appears this will work with our L83 motors) Harmonic Damper Puller I will add a link to one once I confirm which are compatible. I was able to use the GM puller for mine and will include that part number 2000lb Engine Stand with fold-able legs: https://amzn.to/2R3TJUp Engine Stand Mounting Bolts: https://amzn.to/2QXPBW8 AFM DOD Delete Part 4 - Complete Engine Teardown Disassembly 5.3L L83 6.2L L86 V8 Direct Injection This is the fourth part of a multi part series where we will be fully deleting the Active Fuel Management (AFM) / Displacement on Demand (DOD) system from my 2014 Silverado with the 5.3L L83 motor. This process is the same for most Silverados, Sierras, Tahoes, Yukons, and Suburbans made after 2006. In this video we are showing how to disassemble the L83 5.3L motor and this process should be very similar to the L86 6.2L. This process will directly apply to the 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra models. AFM DOD Delete - How to Install Cam Phaser Limiter VVT - Silverado Corvette Camaro L83 L86 LT1 LT4 In this video we show how to install the Phaser Limiter Kit in a 2014 Silverado with the 5.3L L83 Motor. This process will be identical or very similar on 2014+ Silverado, Sierra, and Tahoe models as well as 2014+ Corvette Stingrays and 2016+ Camaro SS models. We recommended confirming with GPI the exact limiter you will need for your application (Affiliate Links). COMP Cams 5456 GM Gen IV VVT (2007 - 2008) Cam Phaser Kit: https://amzn.to/351BkNh COMP Cams 5460 GM Gen IV VVT (2009 - Present) Cam Phaser Limiter Kit: https://amzn.to/37khJJL GPI – Gen 5 LT VVT Cam Phaser Limiter Kit (0 Degree): https://cutt.ly/Qrr7f3K GPI – Gen 5 LT VVT Cam Phaser Limiter Kit (4 Degree): https://cutt.ly/Qrr7hzm How To Upgrade GM Trunnions - CHE Precision Trunnions In this video we show how to the OEM GM Trunnions on 2014 Silverado with the 5.3L L83 Motor. This process will be identical or very similar on 2014+ Silverado, Sierra, and Tahoe models as well as 2014+ Corvette Stingrays and 2016+ Camaro SS models with the LS and LT motors. CHE Trunnion Upgrade Kit for LS/Gen V LT: https://cutt.ly/Brun8Ee AFM DOD Delete Part 5 - Cam and Head Install and Engine Assembly 5.3L L83 6.2L L86 V8 In this video we are showing how to reassemble the L83 5.3L motor and this process should be very similar to the L86 6.2L. This process will directly apply to the 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra models. AFM DOD Delete Part 6 - How To Install Silverado 5.3L L83 6.2L L86 Motor In this video we are showing how to install the L83 5.3L motor back into my silverado and this process should be very similar to the L86 6.2L. This process will directly apply to the 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra models. We will also be showing how to correctly install the harmonic balancer back onto the motor as well as all of the engine accessories. Useful Write-Ups and Videos that we referenced in creating this series: Camaro DOD Delete Write Up: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=516717 Corvette DOD Delete Write Up: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c7-tech-performance/4011956-how-to-lt1-camshaft-and-cylinder-head-install-guide.html Tahoe DOD Delete Video Series: https://youtu.be/uhzLuJsTD-Y

Hey everyone. I have a unique one here, 2008 Silverado had a backfire issue. When it would go into 4cyl mode and as soon as it would go back to 8cyl it would backfire. Run great other then that, done all the normal checks, plugs, compression ,fuel pressure and so on. All checked out and no ses light. So I tuned off the AFM with HP tuner and done a VLOM mode consisting of cutting the tower gaskets and blocking the oil feed to the VLOM with a bushing like what crazed performance repair uses . Note I have done this tune and VLOM mode over 30 times with success on many 5.3 engines. This time I lost oil pressure on first start up after the modification. The day before the truck had 40-45 cold 30-35 hot and 30 in gear. Done the VLOM mode and first stat up I noticed it was barely 20psi and at 160 degrees it already dropped to almost 0. No engine noise, drove the truck and it runs fantastic now but has the pressure problem. I checked pressure at the sender location with a manual gauge and it in fact is low, around 5 pounds, 1500 rpm maybe 10. Checked it at the block plug in front close to the oil pump 50 psi on cold start then drops to 30ish when idle goes down to normal, hot idle it is at 12ish but when revved the least bit it will raise quickly to 30-35. I cant get myself to believe this is coincidence of something falling that immediate .Is it possible a lifter is loosing oil pressure at the tower? Thanks for any input and I will post what the problem and not leave a open thread so everyone can benefit.

I’m looking for a little direction. I bought a 2011 1500 off my dad who was the original owner. The truck has about 60,000 miles on it and hasn’t been abused. The engine is stock and it’s really just started making noise within the last 5,000 miles. It’s more prevalent when the engine is cold, but was a quart low when I went in for my last oil change (still had 40% oil life left). Should I leg it out as it sits now? Invest in a programmer bypass or shell out the coin for a delete kit?

I'm new to the group and I hope I'm doing this correctly. I want to buy a used GMC Yukon, but I would definitely want to disable the AFM before any problems occurred. Does anybody know what this would entail and what the approximate cost would be? Any comments would be greatly appreciated , Thank you?(or would this be a moot point because if I buy a used Yukon the damage could already be done?)

This is the second part of a multi part series where we will be fully deleting the Active Fuel Management (AFM) / Displacement on Demand (DOD) system from my 2014 Silverado with the 5.3L L83 motor. This process is the same for most Silverados, Sierras, Tahoes, Yukons, and Suburbans made after 2006. In this video we are going to cover the parts needed to delete the AFM system. All of the parts for the AFM delete were purchased from Gwatney Performance Innovations (GPI). The components for deleting AFM are listed below in this description. Since much of the motor is being disassembled for this process, I also decided to upgrade some of the other components such as ported heads, 6.2 L86 intake manifold, throttle body, and an airaid air intake. In part three of this series we will be showing how to remove the motor from my Silverado.

Has anyone ever got a custom tune to delete the AFM on their truck? I contacted my dealership about it and they gave me a local tuners number. I understand that it could possibly void my warranty if deleting the AFM causes a problem. But has anyone deleted their AFM and had issues? As well what cost should I expect to see to have a tuner delete the AFM.

Alright guys I acquired some new parts today for the High Country, picked up a Howard's Cams american muscle cam, and dod delete kit, I need to know everything there is to know before I start this project, tips, tricks, videos, will I need new pushrods, new oil pump, anything other than what came with the kit, etc. Thanks

Have 2 Range devices that work perfectly and have new software. Mint condition and box included. Will work for all GM 5.3s. Only one in pic cause they are the same except one is red led and the other blue. $125 shipped each or $225 for the pair

I have a very slightly used Range Technology AFM disabler. Keeps your truck locked in V8 (or V6)mode and simply plugs into the OBD port and can be unplugged as needed. Worked perfectly and never caused a fault. Used it for less than 2 months and have sold the truck. My understanding is it works with any GM vehicle that has AFM. Paid $200, asking $140.

My 2009 Silverado build started out of anger and desperation. My 5.3L LC9 was suffering from oil consumption issues and the dreaded "lifter clack" that so many of us have suffered through. My cam was replaced once under warranty because a lifter failed and fell apart, scoring one of the lobes and my lifters were replaced twice; once with the cam and then a second time because the dealer maintenance dept. installed the wrong lifters... I brought the truck in several times but the oil consumption amount wasn't quite to the point where they would replace the engine. Fast forward several thousand miles and I finally crossed the 100,000 mile mark. The truck was past the warranty limit and the dealership THEN decided that they would be willing to help me out (out of my pocket, of course). I inquired about them installing a different cam and supporting parts to eliminate the AFM and they quoted me almost 2000.00 in LABOR alone. So, I decided to try my hand at doing a cam swap. What's the worst that could happen, right?! First, I sat down and went through all the parts that I would need to swap to support the AFM delete. Cam, obviously... Lifters, Valley Cover, Valve Springs to support the new cam. In question was whether I needed a new timing cover, oil pump, etc. I decided to go ahead and replace/upgrade it as well. Part of the frustration was the fact that I bought a project car and had planned on building it into an LS powered sleeper, so I had already started buying parts to build it. More on that some other time, but suffice to say, some of THOSE parts ended up in the Silverado. I decided to go with a pretty mild cam (GM LS Hot Cam), Pace Setter coated long tube headers, Y Pipe, CNC machined 799 heads with LS6 valve springs from Scoggin-Dickey, a Melling high-volume stock pressure oil pump, Trick Flow push rods (stock height) DUI Sultans of Spark coils, and Taylor Thundervolt 10mm wires, LS2 Dampner, LS2 Valley Cover... I know I'm probably forgetting something... Step 1: Buy a tech manual. I picked up a Haynes manual at Autozone and I bring this up because the pics and the descriptions were so-so. I also had to consult the internet to get at some of the stuff (oil pickup tube to oil pump bolt for example). Step 1.5: Dis-assembly. I started pulling parts based on internet testimonial and common sense mechanical intuition. The Offending AFM parts are out. (Yes, I'm skipping some stuff). The bolt attaching the pickup tube to the oil pump is a real bitch to get out. I had to lower the pan by loosening the bolts which was made even more fun by the front axle and diff (4WD). The gear/pulley puller was an el cheapo that I got from my Grandpa who got it to pull off a pulley on a mower deck I think it was a Harbor Freight special. I damn near snapped it in half pulling off the crank pulley. Step 2: Clean up the mess... The tech at the Chevy dealer that did my last lifter replacement apparently was getting sponsored by Permatex because there was enough RTV on the block and head mating surfaces to caulk a boat. In his defense, I had no leaks. I got the mating surfaces and the intake cleaned up of the oily goop and RTV. Step 3: Start putting parts in! Rockers lifters and LS "Hot Cam" soaking in some break in oil. Not really necessary, but I read conflicting info so I decided to do it. Cam and oil pump installed. I read that the 3-bolt style is the way to go. Incidentally, I think the Hot Cam only comes as a 3 bolt. Heads with Harland Sharpe 1.7 Rocker Arms. I heard good and bad things about them but I'm here to tell you that they are AWESOME. As it happens, they are taller than the stock rockers, so you'll have to get some different valve covers or some spacers. Pro Form makes some good, decently priced valve covers. UMI Performance makes some 1/2" billet spacers that I got off eBay. I didn't have a ton of luck with them, so I switched to the Pro Form valve covers. You have to order the coil pack mounts separately, so be sure to get the LS3 style mounts or you'll be sad.... guess who ordered the wrong ones.... I sprayed my stock valve covers with some Duplicolor crinkle paint in flat black. They look shiny because they aren't dry yet. On the first start, I realized VERY Quickly that they weren't tall enough. That's ALSO when I found out just how tough the Harland Sharpe Roller Rockers are. They took a beating but kept working. Step 3: Close her up and refill all the fluids. I don't have pics for that, but I did flush the radiator. I filled the radiator after buttoning everything up and wouldn't you know it... on the second gallon of coolant (at 11:30PM the night before I had to leave at 2:30 to catch a very early flight), I started to hear the sound of running water.... running coolant, actually. Turns out that the back steam ports on the Scoggin-Dickey heads were not blocked off like my factory heads. A set of Trick-Flow port blocks later and it was no longer leaking coolant. Step 4: Clean everything up, AGAIN.... Attempt to start engine. First time go! I had video of the first start up and the first dyno tuning session but then I had to get a new phone so I lost the old stuff. After the dyno tune, the truck put down 366 horses to the rear wheels. I wasn't looking for a huge jump, so I was pretty happy. Everything ran OK for a few weeks, but I screwed it up. I decided to get a PCV catch can and despite all the research I did, I still mis-routed the hoses. WARNING: if you mis-route the hoses, you will cause some serious additional issues. I started throwing all kinds of codes including P0300 and P0106, P0141... it was like the truck was going haywire. This was due to some issues with the tune and the fact that I had a self-induced vacuum and oil leak. I embarked on a journey of sensor chasing that finally got under control after I took it to a professional. Hoses rerouted, a re-tune (the original tune was apparently too agressive without getting into a couple of the tables that SHOULD HAVE been addressed. It was a learning experience. The new tune is driveable but hasn't been optimized yet. I ran out of time that I could be without my truck, so the guy I took it to got it in decent enough shape that it wasn't surging or throwing Traction Control and Stabilitrak failures. I'm going to take it back when I get back off the road and have some more tuning done. I'm also going to swap my Magnaflow muffler for a 50 series flowmaster because the drone with the magnaflow is deafening through Long Tubes. I'm also looking for a new torque converter with just a little higher stall than stock. Anyone with some good advice feel free to chime in. -Tim