Thanks for all of the info! I will definitely check that link out. This is why the forums are so much better than Facebook groups good to know that fluid film will play with it. I still have to do the front half of my frame, maybe I should use Eastwood on everything??
Good points and definitely plan to keep touching it up with POR15 if I see any rust and I'm going to go over everything with fluid film (after I find out if por15 and fluid film play well together). Wonder how much a stainless steel frame would cost lol
Good point about bed liner, POR15 isn't a bed liner but probably will still hold moisture if compromised. I definitely am curious to see how the frame holds up with the application I've put on. I'll be looking to add some fluid film or something each each year to help.
I'll check the video out for sure. There probably isn't an ideal solution. I'll need to do some research on how POR15 and fluid film react but assuming they play nice, I'll probably hit the frame with some each fall to hopefully keep what I've done so far intact.
Same. I think a lot of guys (including myself) would pay extra for more corrosion resistant materials and better coatings from the factory. Call it the Northern Edition or something. I'll gladly pay lol
Thanks so much for that feedback! Definitely plan to replace the gasket during my next change. Do you have a trick to removing the old one? I know they tend to be jammed up in there pretty tight on some transmissions. I'll try your method for removing the pan next time. If there is an easier way to do it I'll make a video showing that. Picked up a few tricks from comments on the video that I think I'll incorporate into an update video when I do the next change. Thanks again for the feedback! Always looking to learn.
The number 1 complaint (although it is a very tight race with the AFM and condenser issues) I have with my truck is the worthless undercoating that General Motors puts on their Chevy and GMC trucks. It is a wax based undercoating that quickly hardens and flakes off of the frame. You can look under brand new Silverados and Sierras sitting on dealer lots and already see rust starting to form where the wax did not adhere well. This is particularly frustrating for vehicles, such as mine, that call the rust belt home. It has received enough notice and generated a similar quantity of complaints, that GM has, in some cases, re-coated the frames of particularly badly rusting trucks. Unfortunately, they simply use the exact same wax material and rarely prepare the service correctly by removing the rust and old wax. Since the wax does a poor job of bonding and air-locking the already formed rust, this only masks the problem for it to return worse a few months later. In this video, we show you how to fix this problem correctly so that you will have a rust free frame for many years to come.
In this video we show the step by step process for changing the high pressure fuel pump on Cliff's 2014 Silverado with the 5.3L EcoTec V8. This issue is related to fault codes Powertrain P0172 and Powertrain P0175. The exact issue is fuel being blown past the HP fuel pumps seals and into the crank case which contaminates the motor oil. If left uncorrected, this can damage internal components as the oil will break down due to the fuel and lose its lubricating ability. LINKS TO PURCHASE TOOLS & PARTS FEATURED BELOW A quick indicator that the fuel pump is likely at fault is a smell of fuel when removing the oil dipstick. The high pressure fuel pump failure was verified by a local dealer by monitoring the fuel trim levels. I was very surprised to find out this the high pressure fuel pump is not covered by the factory power train warranty. Especially since it is literally driven by the camshaft, directly affects the health of the motor, and the codes literally read "POWERTRAIN". GM really should get their act together since this appears to be such a common problem. Note that the fault code did clear itself after a few starts of the truck. Fortunately, this is a pretty straight forward job that only requires basic tools. The process showed in this video should be identical on 2014 through 2018 Silverados and Sierras with the 5.3L EcoTec V8 These steps should also be very similar to other GM models with the 5.3L, 6.0L, and 6.2L such as the Tahoe, Suburban, and Escalade. Try anything shown in this video at your own risk Parts HP Pressure Fuel Pump: https://amzn.to/2XnUq0g GM PN: 12697966 ACDelco PN: HPM1035 Note eight (x8) of these gaskets are required Intake Manifold Gaskets: https://amzn.to/2Y1hZJg GM PN: 12626354 Note: we did not need to remove the throttle body from the intake manifold during the install so this part was not required. I have listed it here because GM includes it in the recommend parts for this job. Throttle Body Gasket: https://amzn.to/2ITJRIW GM PN: 12632900 High Pressure Fuel Line: https://amzn.to/2XrsHf8 GM PN: 12677004 Unique Tools Needed Fuel Line Connector Removal Tool: https://amzn.to/2WTzN7J Flare Nut Wrench Set: https://amzn.to/2KrYqGT Thumb Driver: https://amzn.to/2FlZVlO
haha hopefully not that bad but i've had to do one motor swap on another vehicle that shouldn't have died lol
Hopefully it helps you out!
Definitely doesn't hurt to change them a little early.
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The manual says 97.5K but check the manual for your vehicle. A general rule is 100K miles as I went over in the video
Yeah, I am sure that made it easier. Nice lift setup!
Great - ok. I definitely will need to do something about this so it does rot out. Thanks for the heads - up.
I got an OEM bumper painted by a reputable body shop and it has held up very well for 20K miles and I drive in all conditions. A couple small rock chips but nothing serious. I figure that I will get it repainted every 2 to 4 years depending on how it holds up. I may line-x it eventually but I really like the painted look. I also got a chrome grill painted at the same time and it is holding up very well. I clear wrapped the bottom half and left the top half un-wrapped to see the difference. There are no rock chips anywhere.
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