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Found 63 results

  1. On Sunday March 8th I was driving my Sierra home from my parents-in law. I pulled out from a stop sign and was just getting up to speed when there was a loud bang followed by loss of power, Loud ticking noise, vibrations and a sulfur smell coming from the exhaust. I knew this was lifters instantly as it Happened to me in August of 2018, a short 11,000 miles ago. So, I took it in to my dealer who ran diagnostics and gave me the news That I would need lifters replaced yet again. Unfortunately, my power train warranty ran out December of 2019, so they told me I would owe a balance of $2900+ tax. Of course I was very upset with this news as I would have imagined the dealer would talk to GM and get this issue sorted out.. I mean it was only a few months over a year and less than 11,000 miles since they replacedall of the lifters and the cam shaft. I contacted GM myself and over the course of the last week have been working with the dealer and trying to talk to someone at GM who could help. Finally I reached a “senior analyst” who is apparently the top tier of customer assistance and she told me there was absolutely nothing they can do and I am responsible for the entire bill. I insisted that GM must know about the issues this engine has By now and should acknowledge and help their clients, but she offered no help. How can I trust this engine again? I have read many posts people have put on this forum alone with this issue of failing lifters. How can anyone be expected to pay this much for an issue that is derived likely from GMs design of the afm system? Especially after we pay $50,000+ for the truck to begin with! I do not pretend to be an Mechanical or financial expert, but I feel I have been severely wronged in this situation. I have no choice but to eat this cost and sell the truck before the lifters have a chance to fail again. I would suggest anyone doing research considering buying one of these trucks (I believe Sierra and Silverado 14-18 at least) that has the active fuel management system to rethink it. I would also go out on a limb and suggest my friends with 14-15 year Silverado and Sierras (with expired powertrain warranty’s) to consider selling them before the lifters fail on yours and you are stuck with a $3000-$5000 bill. Good luck all.
  2. Chevy passed out a 2019 Silverado information book to journalists during this week's media drive. I'm working on scanning the entire thing and sharing it here. There's a lot of information packed into this flip book. I thought the most interesting was the engine line up and an AFM vs DFM diagram. This is the best comparison blowout diagram I've seen so far. Here's the four pages related to the engines.
  3. Howdy all, I’m looking for some help with a new to me truck, that looks like it has a few issues to fix. It’s a 2014 Silverado Z71, with just under 150k. The problems I’m having so far are: 1. After sitting for a little while (hours -overnight) it turns over for several seconds before starting. If I just ran it, it starts normal. 3. sometimes driving it feels like it doesn’t accelerate or shift soon enough at slower speeds. 2. When going in gear it takes a while to go it seems like, or when switching from reverse to drive it seems to not start going immediately. Two days ago I checked the codes and there was one for EVAP P0446 evaporative emission system vent control circuit , and P0430 (system efficiency below threshold bank 2) This morning I go to start it and it turns over 5 or 6 times (about) and starts, and then the CEL starts blinking. I get the codes checked and here is what it has: 1. P0036 - heated oxygen sensor heater control circuit bank 1 sensor 2 2. P0037 - same as above but says circuit low 3. P0056 - same as above except bank 2 4. P0057 - same as above but says circuit and bank 2 5. P0138 - oxygen sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2 6. P013A oxygen sensor slow response Rich to Lean (bank 1 sensor 2) 7. P013C -(Same as above but bank 2 sensor 2) 8. P0141 oxygen sensor heater circuit (Bank 1 sensor 2) 9. P014A sensor delayed response Rich to Lean, Bank 2 sensor 2 10. P0158 oxygen sensor circuit high voltage bank 2 sensor 2. 11. P0161 Oxygen heater sensor circuit bank 2 sensor 2 12. P0300 random- multiple misfire detected 13. P0430 Catalyst western efficiency below threshold bank 2 14.p0443 Evaporative emissions system purge control valve circuit 15. P0446 Evaporative emissions system vent control circuit 16. P0458 Evaporative emissions system purge control valve circuit 17.p06DA Engine oil pressure control circuit / open 18. P3401 cylinder 1 deactivation / intake valve control circuit / open 19. P3403 cylinder 1 deactivation / intake valve control circuit low 20, 21,22,23,24 and 25 are the same as the last two but for cylinders 4,6 and 7. 26. P0036 Heated oxygen sensor control circuit bank 1 sensor 2 27. P0037 Heated oxygen sensor control circuit low bank 1 sensor 2 28. P0056 heated oxygen sensor Control circuit bank 2 sensor 2 29. P0057 heated oxygen sensor Control circuit low bank 2 sensor 2 30. P0138 oxygen survivor sensor high voltage bank 1 sensor 2 31. p013A again and a couple of the other codes again.... I’m assuming/hoping these are all related to a similar problem. Fuel pump? I figured the evap and cat codes are a separate issue but not ruling that out. Any help with this would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks.
  4. Hey guys, I got a 2015 Silverado 5.3l. 138,250km. started ticking sometime last winter. Would happen instantly at start up and last about 5 minutes then would fade away. Sounded like a lifter. Took it to the dealer they said they couldn't hear it. Sound went away so left it. Fast forward to this winter and as Soon as the weather started to cool down I noticed the ticking again. Took it back to the dealer said they couldn't hear it again. I went and picked up my truck right at closing, soon as I fired her up the sound was there but everyone was gone so no one to hear it. I took a video. Next day I called the dealer, sent the video. Took like a week to get back to me. In the meantime I had taken videos pretty much every time I started it. Long story short after a brief fight with them about them trying to say it's normal etc they agreed that it sounded like a noise coming from the valve train. Left my truck with them, they called me said they had to change all lifters. Went to pick up my truck and on start up the sound is still there. This was a month ago. Sent more videos and a previous video from before they did the work and they are saying they can't hear it again. Took it in in person they agreed that there's an issue again and they will look at it. Now they are saying it's possible bad injector noise but they can't figure out which one . In the meantime I took it to another dealership they changed the vacuum pump. After that the sound changed. Now it's no longer at start up but once the truck has reached operating temperature and is more of a dull sound. Took it back to that same dealer who did the vacuum pump and they said valve train noise and deffo not injectors. But they won't work on it because the other dealer already did. They didn't change the VLOM or the cam. I had/have no check engine lights. Truck runs awesome. Sometimes rough idle. Any ideas what it could be?
  5. I have a 2012 GMC Sierra with 5.3 Vortec. I had to replace one head due to damaged exhaust valve. Completed the work and truck is running but on reduced power. Code reader shows 3425-3441-3401-3449 which are the solenoid deactivation codes for the 4 AFM cylinders. I assume I have done something or missed something that is causing this to all 4 of these cylinders. Any suggestions on what steps to take to resolve? Visual inspection of wiring and vacuum hoses has found nothing. Oil was change with Mobil 1 and new filter. Possoibly in limp mode but these are only codes showing.
  6. Does a Range AFM disabler work on a 2017 model? Their website indicates it goes up to 2016. I can't see what should be different... but I think they are overpriced to begin with, so I don't want to shell out the dollars for it if it's a paperweight. My truck is a 2017 1500 with a 5.3L & 6 speed. I only want it so that custom exhaust won't sound stupid. Had an i2 programmer for my 16 and it won't work on my 17... so I quit with the programmer, I'll stick with plug and play if it is truly that.
  7. Does anyone know if the AFM problems were solved? Should I be concerned with the AFM in my new 2016 5.3L Silverado? thanks!
  8. Has anyone ever got a custom tune to delete the AFM on their truck? I contacted my dealership about it and they gave me a local tuners number. I understand that it could possibly void my warranty if deleting the AFM causes a problem. But has anyone deleted their AFM and had issues? As well what cost should I expect to see to have a tuner delete the AFM.
  9. This may be a rather strange question, but is it possible to reset the learned driving habits? My 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 4x4 crew cab drove great for the the first year (new to about 10,000 miles). The truck was very responsive and the AFM was not bad then--it only kicked in at about 45 mph or greater and it was not objectionable. After about a year, the AFM started engaging much more aggressively and at lower speeds--the truck would periodically jerk violently when it entered V4 mode. It began trying hard to avoid downshifting, so there is absolutely no power when you turn corners or start up a hill unless you really shove down on the gas pedal. I distinctly remember a coworker saying, "What's wrong with this thing?!?" soon after the clunking and other stuff started. The dealer said it was learning my driving habits and everything was normal. Now, I have 57k miles on the truck and I really do not enjoy driving it anymore. I have about a 25 mile commute with long stretches of 35 mph speed zones. If I don't drive in M5 or activate the Range device, the truck repeatedly goes "CLUNK, lug, SQUEAK!" as the AFM engages, the truck lugs along for a bit, and goes back to V8 mode (with passive exhaust valve squeak, of course). I have noticed the clunking is much worse when the outside temperature is below about 45 degrees. The dealership says I am stuck with this behavior because it has adapted to my low-speed stretches and there is nothing I can do about it. They say most of their similar complaints come from people who drive at lower speeds. The truck has only been maintained at the dealership--I got tired of them saying I was not maintaining my last truck properly (Mobil-1 changes at 4-5k miles or 45% oil monitor remaining, coolant and transmission flushes at 30-35k, and all fluids replaced at 50k miles, mind you). I have had them do far more maintenance than recommended and I don't hesitate to throw this fact back in their face when they start to say I have done something wrong to cause the bad behavior (they said going too long between oil changes probably caused it until I told them to check their records). They tried pulling the battery and it didn't help anything. I would love to have my truck drive the way it did when it was new. I know I could get a tune, but I have an 84 month, 84K mile warranty and I don't want to risk having too many increments of the flash counter. My dealer says to get a tune when the warranty expires, but I doubt I will keep the truck that long--I honestly don't have much faith that the drive train will hold together. The constant "clunk-lug-squeak!" reminds me of the clown cars you see at a circus. Does anyone know of a way to reset the learned behavior or do I have to live with it until I get rid of the truck? I can get access to SPS if there is a way to resolve this via the dealership tools. Any help would certainly be appreciated!
  10. I don't know much about this system, how it operates, the stress that is placed on the lifters during cylinder deactivation. How common is this failure? Been watching some YouTube videos on the repair and it's very labor intensive...heads have to come off, etc. I see that you can buy the entire kit (lifters, gaskets) for around $500. Have a friend that told me...just change your oil, you'll be fine. The number one cause of this failure is neglected maintenance. That true? Or is it an inherited problem with the design of the system? The system came out in 2007, there must be some improvements made to it since then, no? I must say that the AFM is allowing me to get some excellent fuel economy out of a full size truck. So is this a common problem, or are there people with 200,000 on these trucks that never had an issue with it?
  11. Have a 2013 5.3L Sierra SLT with afm still on and about 210k km. I’ve been reading a lot about disabling afm and all and how it drinks oil and spark plugs get coated in some nasty soot. So today I did my spark plugs to see if there was any build up. Cause they were done about 10 months ago or longer (i think). when I checked the old spark plugs 1 through 8 they all looked fairly the same and had absolutely no soot build up of any kind and my oil doesn’t seem to be burning. So my question is. Should I still disable afm? Since I bought the truck 3 years ago now I haven’t had any issues (must have been built on a wedensday lol). Should I not chance it and just do it? Or leave the can of worms un opened
  12. Beating a dead horse here... Have a Denali 6.2 that I just purchased from CarMax (with an extended warranty/Thank God!) Tapping sound from the start. Ran two tanks of 91 octane to eliminate possible octane knock. Took me past the 7 day return policy and 30 day standard warranty with CarMax. Didn't really bother me because of the factory warranty. Truck looked brand new. Even had the wrapping on the DVD player. Popped the hood and started looking for an exhaust leak. I found a donut/flange laying on the crossmember. Took it to the dealership. Found that the truck had two new fuel injectors and a new Catalytic Converter. Someone was searching for the cause of the sound. Dealership tightened some gaskets and said the truck was good to go. It made the deafening tapping noise on the way home. I returned the truck to the dealership. Even though I have purchased 4 vehicles from them in the past to include a current 2019 Arcadia -- they had no loaner for me. They kept the vehicle for two more days. Could not find the cause of the noise. I went back to speak with the service manager. He was not happy. He went on a ride with me and heard the noise. Claimed it was the transmission searching for the proper gear. Weird because the noise happens constantly -- to include start up and idle. Told me his 6.2 made same noises and it was normal. Finally took it back to CarMax. They sent it back to same dealer with a promise to pay for diagnostics. Miraculously, dealer finds lifters to be the issue. I'll keep updated on status of cam, etc. I think I'll trade this lemon in on a diesel or anything without AFM. Will also not be purchasing from Bob Howard GMC in Oklahoma City.
  13. So I have recently purchased a Range AFM disabler for my 2017 Silverado 1500 E-assist because of the constant stopping and starting at stop lights, exhaust drone from V4, weird shifting from V4 to V8 and my transmission liking to jerk/shifting hard every so often. After installing the Range device, it has solved my transmission issues, disabled stopping and starting at stop lights, and has been keeping it in V8 mode 24/7! The only thing I have noticed is that when I am decelerating from a speed of around 50 MPH or more, the engine will have a fast repetitive backfiring popping sound until i either get back on the gas pedal or have reached a speed of 35 MPH. It seems to happen when i am decelerating slowly and not fast, starts to backfire when it starts to downshift at around 900-1100 RPMs I have a flowmaster Super40 cat-back dual 2.5 inch exhaust with the third "cat" still on. It used to not backfire when the AFM was active BUT when decelerating, it would switch back into V4 mode. is there a way to fix this? Is there too much freeflowing exhaust? Can this backfiring through the exhaust cause any damage if left unfixed? Thanks, -Hunter
  14. Range AFM Disabler - Version 8.6 (Plugged it into my new truck and got 8 and 6 flashes) Fits 2014 - 2019 Legacy https://rangetechnology.com/afm-disabler/ $50.00 Buyer pays for shipping from 48611
  15. I have a 2017 Sierra with a 5.3. I have had free oil changes for the last two years and have used the dealer's supplied Dexos. My engine and transmission are working great. I have read that many people hare having issues with AFM and hard shifting trannies. I have use Amsiol signature in all my other vehicles. Has any one switched to Amsoil and experienced problems? I am wondering if I should leave well enough alone.
  16. Looking at crew cab short bed 4x4’s with the V8’s. I just can’t wrap my head around not having low range so it’ll either be a Z71 or a Trail Boss. Been watching prices and I’m seeing Custom Trail Boss trucks starting to get close to the prices of the LT. As in within a grand or even less. Anyone bought a Custom and regret it? I have a 2011 Silverado 1500 4x4 and my wife has a 2017 Yukon 4x4. Both have the 6L80 transmission and hers has the Ecotec 5.3 V8. Very happy with that engine and transmission combo and even with less power my ‘11 moves and drives well with the 3.42 gears. Will I miss anything with a Custom instead of a regular LT Z71? 6 spd vs 8 spd? Gas mileage? Something else?
  17. I have a 2016 Crew Cab Silverado 4x4 that I bought new last summer. I have noticed that recently when the active fuel management switches from 4 to 8 cylinders that there is a loud (loud enough to hear it with the windows up, A/C and radio on) squeak like noise that comes from the truck. It makes this noise every time it switches from 4 to 8, no matter what the speed. I don't remember it doing this until recently. I've googled active fuel management noise, active fuel management squeak and tons on other combinations, but haven't gotten any results. I wanted to check on here and see what you guys thought before looking like a dumb ass and taking it back to the dealership.
  18. Installed a 3" Motofab level on my truck last weekend. Rear is stock. Added 20x12s with 33x12.5 tires. Minor plastic and metal trimming, no rub at all. Smoked my tails and 3rd brake light. Will smoke my front turn signals and corner markers this weekend. Will also vinyl wrap the chrome mustache on the bumper, unless someone wants to trade for all black. Going to do a muffler delete (leaving resonators) and clamp the flapper valve open, will also add a Range AFM delete. Has 30% tint now, will eventually do 15% this summer. Will post more pics as I make progress.
  19. A few weeks ago my 2010 Silverado LC9 with 90,000 miles had a lifter collapse on number 6 and it destroyed the camshaft. I went with a Non-VVT delete kit with stage 2 cam from Texas-Speed. Everything is going well with install, but just a slight difference with the mounting bracket from the Camshaft sensor doesn't work anymore. For any whom have done this delete for 2010+ 5.3, do you just cut the wiring out and leave it hanging there? Or modify the bracket for the pigtail by grinding away parts of the bolt ear area, and cutting/bending other parts of it to make it fit? Or the last option is to buy GM P/N: 12627501 that appears to be the pre-2010 camshaft sensor mount. Just trying to see what most do, and proceed from there. Thanks for any input you provide.
  20. I just bought a 2017 GMC SLT with the 6.2L and 8 Spd. It had 8700 miles on it. It will idle a little rough at idle momentarily. I only run premium gas, is that normal for the 6.2L? I've installed a Magnaflow 12909 muffler w/o flapper valve and an AFM Momentum CAI. Also, since I've had it, it has a tick that is heard when your standing next to it, or in a drive thru with the window down. Is that normal? After reading on here I'm worried about the afm lifters causing it. I plan on getting a Hypertec programmer so I can change the afm to 70mph and adjust the shifting so it's less clunky. I also will be installing an Elite Engineering EX-2 catch can kit. Will these additions help with the common afm issues? To make it more reliable in the long run? Anyone with experience or knowledge please educate me on this, thank you
  21. I have an RX Speedworks catch can that i had installed on my 2016 Sierra. It attaches using the bolt for the brake fluid. Has the clean side separator that I used as well but not included in the pics but can provide more pics upon request. Will work on other vehicles. My price is obo shipped. TIA. https://www.rxspeedworks.com/product/gmc-sierra-oil-catch-can/
  22. I recently did a dod delete on my 2007 suburban. 6.0 200,000 miles. I thought the problem was the afm lifters being that there was a tick at highway speeds. I only had a tick at highway speeds. If I drove on the street I would never get the noise. As soon as I held a steady speed on the highway I would get what sounds like a lifter tick. The dod delete work was done by a Preformance shop. I do not think that dod was the problem. If I hold the throttle steady at 2000rpm while in park I can get the tick to come on. After I let the engine idle about 2-3 minutes the tick goes away. As soon as I hold the rpms back up it will come back and repeat the process. No loss of power while this is happening and no other sounds. Oil pressure is about 10-15 at idle and close to 40 while on highway. I would greatly appreciate any help.
  23. Hello All, This is my first time posting in this forum!! Just bought a DiabloSport Itune I3 Platinum Programmer. I am looking for some decisive direction as well as suggestions on the best parameters for tuning my truck with the I3 Platinum. Specs of Truck: 2014 Silverado Z71 LTZ 2WD Crew Cab Rough Country leveling kit installed 33" x 12.5" x 22" Nitto Terra Grappler G2 A/T tires 5.3L Ecotec flex engine K & N Cold Air Intake installed Gentle 46k miles I RUN 93 OCTANE IN THIS TRUCK Being a 2 wheel drive (It Does have the Z71 package, Rancho shocks, etc...) Obviously it raked in the front. First thing I did was put the K&N CAI on and it was like a rocket in Manual 5 gear mode, when I shifted through the gears myself. After leveling kit and 33's with aggressive tread, it was complete garbage. No power, confused shift points, almost like missing. Just a hot mess. So I bought the Intune I3 first, rather than switching to a 4.10 gear (which I may do later). Already turned off AFM and that was immediately effective. Also, 15% throttle boost. Can anyone suggest the best parameters to make this bad boy get up and GO!!?? I would like to know if there is a good idea on what ECM and TCM adjustments should be made to not only get that stock power back on 33's. But also get good fuel economy. The standard Diablo Flex, Jammer and 91 tunes don't seem to help a whole lot. Still bogs down and takes forever to get through 1st and 2nd gear. Anybody know about these tuners on a 14 Silverado with 33's?!?!?! Please help!!! Alan
  24. Hello everyone new to the community and new to Chevy trucks. I'm looking to purchase my first Silverado in the near future but after researching the current gen Silverados I keep seeing how afwul afm is in these trucks and how in extreme cases it can lead to engine failure. Can someone explain to me exactly what what the problems are that owners are seeing with this technology and my big question is, have a lot of the issues been worked out or even resolved in the 2017-2018 models? Are the problems with afm severe enough to not make it not worth getting a new Silverado? All the bad things I am reading are really pushing me away from buying one . Any and all information is welcome ! Thanks guys !
  25. Hey guys I’m new to the forum but I’ve been a long time subscriber since I bought my 14 Sierra new in feb 2014. So I’ve read lots of horror stories on the site and I thought I’d tell you guys about my experience. A few weeks ago over 5r holidays, my girlfriend and I were returning a uhaul after moving and she was following in my truck, she called to say that the check engine light was on and the truck had reduced power. We dropped off the uhaul and I hopped in and could tell it was misfiring and had a rough idle. I took it to my local mechanic and he told me cylinder 4 was misfiring and he tried a coil pack but that didn’t fix it, he did a compression test and it was holding compression but he told me this was gonna be a bigger problem. luckily I still had powertrain warranty so I contacted the dealership that I bought the truck from and they had me tow it there using gm roadside. So my first hats off to gm, the lady I had on the phone from roadside assistance asked her manager to waive the tow fee as I was having it towed to my home dealership that was > than the 50 miles that they cover for free. Once the truck made it to the dealership, it only took the. A couple of hours to figure out I had a failed lifter and broken rod for cylinder #4. Now I was freaking out because I’ve read horror stories on this site about having to argue with regional managers for warranty work this significant and I’ve heard dealerships arbitrarily saying work isn’t covered under warranty for whatever reason. Thankfully I can say my service advisor set me up with a rental the same day and reassured me that everything would be covered by gm. He did say parts were on backorder and it would take approx 2 weeks. Almost 2 weeks to the day, truck was ready to be picked up with 0 hassle the entire time. This is my 3rd truck with the 5.3 and the only time I’ve had a significant mechanical issue. The truck only had 85000 km (around 50k miles) sure I was PO’d that my truck was out of commission for 2 weeks but I was extremely thankful that gm stood behind their product and was able to fix the truck for me. The truck seems to run fine now but I don’t know if I will keep it as I don’t know if it will be the same or if the issue will reoccur. I do know that my next truck will definite be another Chevy or Sierra. I can’t wait to see the reveal of the new Chevy this weekend at Detroit! Jut thought I would post a positive warranty repair story and throw a kudos out to gm for making things right with me
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