Sorry to hear about your sister, can't imagine going through that. Regarding the gps...I haven't tried google maps, I'm not sure if I can with the iPhone using my cell server (Verizon). I'll have to check. I do use waze; it will sometimes have you detour off your route to save only minutes, which I find can be a real pain. For the most part I trust it enough to not do what the gps on the truck will do. I have been using the truck gps on shorter/more familiar areas, to kind of get a sense on what it wants to do. My overall impression is that it is kind of numb...no intuition to avoid any obvious trouble spots. And it is slow to change a route. I'll have to see if it has settings that can improve it for what I'd prefer (less traffic, not always the shortest route, quicker adjustments). I'm not holding my breath...and I'm not exactly looking for perfection here, I'd be happy if it could do what waze does. Then again I could try the Apple play on the car and maybe try using waze through the navigation screen.
It's funny you mention you haven't seen any issues yet, I haven't either. I ran into a code on a Hyundai a year ago and it pointed to the high pressure fuel pump, that's about it. Most of the complaints I hear about is the noise of the system. I imagine most issues are still being handled by dealers because on some cars it's still relatively new. But Audi has been using it for years, haven't seen many issues except for worn followers on the cam. Come to think of it BMW was having some high pressure fuel pump problems with the 535...and some destroyed cams.
If you haven't done a direct injection repair yet I suggest you watch some videos on it or take a small class. The pressures of the systems are very high, it's important to bleed off the system before you start working on it (pressures can reach 2,000 psi during operation). The high pressure fuel pump is very expensive, so be careful not to damage it when you remove it. And the injectors are high voltage (if I remember correctly) and they are probably a pain to remove because they are in the cylinder and head...I'm trying to imagine how bad it'd be to remove with over 100,000 miles on them. Yikes. Very few systems use BOTH the direct and port injection together, although that may change with all the carbon issues on the valves, but that is expensive for manufacturers (and they care more about profit than reliability). Honestly I haven't heard about many problems with the actual systems themselves, more with the carbon buildup on valves than anything else. I used to own a direct injected Lexus...178,000 miles and not one single issue. In fact I've seen cars with 300,000 without issue. pretty surprised to hear the GM injectors failing at low mileage....even more surprised it's not covered under warranty. These systems aren't exactly "new" anymore, every car on the road uses them now.
Sounds like when the driveline is asked to do something/stressed, it makes a worn bearing noise. Could be anything from bearings in the differential, u joint, bearing in the transmission, transfer case, torque converter, flexplate cracked. I don't know, but I'd start with the simple stuff. Check your transmission fluid, transfer case fluid. Differentials. Maybe remove your driveshaft and check the u joints. Check your heat shield too, sometimes when the engine is put under load it can twist enough to cause a heat shield noise that vibrates under the passenger compartment.
Doublebase replied to Dr Awesome's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra 1500I'm surprised at the amount of stuff on that plug, especially with only 3,000 miles on it. Seems like a lot. I wonder with it being so new that perhaps those shavings would break down in time, and appear much less dramatic at a later mileage?
Oh ok, so more like driveline. Hmm. U joint sticking a little bit, maybe? Oh wait you said you have a 4" lift...that definitely changes driveline angles and stresses u joints. Maybe put it in neutral and coast when you're experiencing it, see if it goes away. Maybe pull the drive shaft out and check the ball joints. Just some thoughts. More simple type of stuff than condemning the transmission, etc.
So it's coming from the engine? Water pump? Alternator? AC pulley? Rotational noise in the engine usually points to those types of things...the idler pulleys, water pump, alternator, tensioner, anything that spins. Try removing the belt and check for a roughness/bad bearings. I suppose if your truck has over 50,000 miles, any of the above is possible.
Got to admit...until today I've only ever seen one person complain about not having a light under the hood. Is there a manufacturer in the United States that still does that? Or any manufacturer at all? I haven't seen a light under the hood on any car in ten years.
I'm pissed at myself for missing it this year...all well, that's what I get for not paying attention. I'm still in the "free" oil change faze (2 freebies from the manufacturer). I did my own oil change at 1,300 miles, then I took it to the dealer at 4,300 miles. I can't stand taking it to the dealer - I sat there for an hour and a half - at some point your own time is worth more than a free oil change. I'll be doing the next one myself using Mobil 1. I'll probably use my last free oil change in the dead of winter when I don't want to crawl under it. I'll be doing 5,000 mile intervals, I'm at 8,000 miles already in three months.
This what I've seen/experienced with the waxy coating on the frame of my 2018. I needed to "touch up some spots" right away after I bought it. There was surface rust from where the coating wore away. I tried a few different products - fluid film was fine to use on the wax (in my opinion). It didn't disturb the existing wax and seemed to adhere to it well. Now some other things I tried?? Not so much. I tried fixing a spot with bar and chain oil and a mixture of graphite - yeah let's just say the wax didn't like it - it kind of evaporated right before my very eyes. I sprayed a rubberized undercoating where I removed the wax, then fluid filmed it. It's been fine ever since (3 months later). I ended up doing a full fluid film treatment to the truck - I considered other brands but Krown wasn't available in my area and I read that NH Oil Undercoating used some petroleum base in their product and it may/may not damage rubber components. So I stayed away from that. I don't expect the fluid film to last much more than 6 months though, so that kind of sucks that I'll have to do it twice a year, but it was fine on the wax and it sticks to everything pretty well. I drove down a dusty road after and the dust kind of "set" all of it up even further.
I tend to just buy whatever is on sale, knowing I'll be dumping it at around 5,000 miles anyway. I do take advantage of the yearly Mobil 1 rebate program they have every spring (although I missed it this year). If I remember ....receive $11 dollars off a five quart jug of Mobil 1 synthetic. So I'd buy six of them at Walmart on sale for $22 a jug ($132) and receive a check from Mobil 1 for $66...ends up being $2.20 a quart for Mobil 1. Unbelievable bargain. And unlike other brands that don't seem to send their rebate checks (hello penzoil), Mobil 1 actually follows through. Make sure to look for it next spring, if you don't already.
I love hearing the high mileage Amsoil stories. Thought about trying it out myself once but I chickened out at 10,000 miles using Mobil 1 Extended Performance. My buddy sells Amsoil 5w30 in his shop. A guy I know worked for Toyota when they were deveoplong their own oil through Mobil 1and going to the 10,000 mile intervals, they were all skeptical about doing those intervals, but the guys from Mobil 1 told them (off the record) that they would feel comfortable going 70,000 using their oil (just toppin up and changing filters). Haha. 70,000 miles using Mobil 1??? Not my cup of tea.
God I hope I'm not sounding like the oil change police, haha. I just like oil talk. Regarding Toyota, yup toyota went to 10,000 mile oil changes on engines that ONLY use 0w20, if the engine can run 0w20, 5w20 and 5w30, it must continue with 5,000 mile oil changes (even if it's using 0w20). Toyota was late to the direct injection party, they use it in their four cylinders now but their very popular 3.5 V6 I believe is still tune port injected (or it just went to direct injection). Also Toyota stays away from turbo charged engines and relies still on naturally aspirated engines (despite Honda going that route). Easier on oil. And as you said, Toyota still requires you to get your fluids checked at 5,000 miles (and to have the oil changed if its considered severe service). But yeah Toyota seems to be doing fine with these extended drains, I've talked to some of their techs and they say the oil still looks good when they take it out. Toyota makes great cars, I'd consider them the most reliable vehicles on the road (I think they passed Honda years ago).
Fuel injection used to be great - and it still is - it just changed dramatically the last five years with direct injection. Now we're blasting fuel right on top of the piston at 600-2000 psi. That stuff is getting into the oil. Carburetor cold starts? Picture an injector running rich right on top of a cold piston and rings that haven't expanded yet.
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