It depends on who you ask...if you ask someone that has bought a $350 catch can or someone who makes those $350 dollar cans? They'll tell you you should and that the $30-$50 cans are junk. And some probably are. Just do some research. I bought a $30 can off Amazon. It was incredibly highly rated (something like 300 positive reviews). And they were right, the thug works great. Not a plug a play can...didn't come with quality fuel hose, not very big, no drain valve. But it was real easy for me to buy $8 worth of fuel hose and fabricate mounting hardware (and the reviews told me as much). So just make the decision for yourself, do a little research, etc...but I think if you're mechanically inclined you can do just fine without spending $300
I'm catching somewhere around an ounce every 1,000 miles in my catch can. I figure I'd rather it be in the can than the intake - I know I'm not catching it all but it's better than nothing. I've seen quite a few direct injected 5.3's that use oil, can't be good for the backside of those valves. I add maybe a half quart in between my 5,000 mile oil change (16,000 miles 2018).
I don't think it's hurt to change the fluid, 73,000 miles is more than justifiable if you haven't already. I have heard a whine noise coming from the transfer case in my older GM trucks - that's probably because I accidentally was driving around in awd for a week - I find these things don't handle awd like you'd think. Caught myself doing it once in my 2018...cleaned the interior, accidentally must have switched it into awd. Maybe put 40 mikes on it...started hearing a whining noise...thought, oh great here we go again.
Something else to consider that I never even thought of until now, this fish bite sensation when the engine is cold may not necessarily be the transmission. It could be the engine. Direct injection engines suffer from preignition and engine knock when it's cold. The knock sensors could be peeling back on the timing, causing the jerky, sort of fish biting sensation. Then it warms up and goes away. But like ive said before, I've been experiencing this since my truck was new back in April (2018 Silverado 5.3). I now have 16,000 miles...no change for better or worse. The thing is driving excellent aside from this cold start issue.
I've used it and I like it, goes on a little thicker than the Amsoil or Fluid Film. Seems to last a little longer. Then again with it being thicker it may not weep into the various crevice (that those other companies claim is important). And I agree, you can't stop rust, but you can slow it down quit a bit with effort. One good thing...it takes a lot to rust these frames to the point where it'll fail inspection or need a piece welded in...so yearly maintenance should only help.
My personal oil usuage... 2007 Lexus LS460 - Never used a drop until it reached 120,000 miles, then when it hit 150,000 it started drinking oil. 1 quart every 1,000 miles. 1999 Honda Accord 4cyl - Never used a drop until it got over 200,000 miles, then it started - got gradually worse up until it reached 270,000 - then it was using a quart every 500. 2008 Honda CRV - That thing uses almost no oil. 5,000 mile synthetic oil changes. I'll use anything that's on sale for it. Uses almost nothing, never have to top up. 2018 Silverado - I'm using a half quart between 5,000 mile oil changes...maybe more. I run a rather large repair facility, I always pull the dipstick before an oil change out of curiosity to see what various cars are using. I've never seen a newer GM truck that wasn't low on oil. Some of them more than others...but I've never seen one right up to the full mark. And one of them is never showing oil at all on that dipstick (60,000 miles 2014, 5,000 mile oil changes). We've told her to take it to the dealer and see if they'll install new rings. She could care less...most people don't.
Excellent. And I'll have to keep an eye on how the Pennzoil performs during this interval - this is the first time I've used Pennzoil. You mentioned rust prevention in another post, you'll have to post what you're doing in the frame rust thread. I too am in the process of trying to protect my vehicle from rust (I live in the salt belt). I've used 3M, Fluid Film and some undercoati touch up on some areas where the wax came off. Curious to see what you're doing.
Yeah I may give Amsoil a try, only problem is I no longer do extended drains (I blame the oil consumption on my last vehicle for it). And I believe direct injection engines do a number on oil. So if I spend on the Amsoil it'll be getting dumped at 5,000 miles (seems like a waste). But I may do it anyway...try it once and see how it goes.
Well good luck, keep us posted. Down the road if you're ever able to take a photo of the inside of your intake with your endoscope, I'd be interested in seeing what it looks like. Wish we had the same engine and then we could kind of compare notes, etc. It sounds like we both do a lot of driving...easy driving. I'm at 30,000 miles a year but I may start using my wife's vehicle on the weekends to drop it down some. And I read through your maintenance post and you have similar techniques (engine break in, initial oil change intervals, etc). I will admit that I don't use as high a quality oil as you - then again I haven't reached 20,000 miles yet - but I have used a dexos approved synthetic since new, with a factory filter. First oil change was at 900 miles, then at 3,000...now I've settled in at 4,500-5,000 mile changes. I'm running Pennzoil Platinum right now. what makes a ring seal? Tension? The ring to wall fit and ring tension. And I'd say lands would be abviously a huge factor after that point (if the rings were to get stuck in the lands). You've probably seen that before - when a ring is stuck in a land its like you don't have a ring at all. That correct or am I wrong?
Well first off, grumpy, I don't think anyone is calling you an idiot, so I don't think you need to get self conscious or defensive about it. Everything is going to be ok. If not you have your methods. Lol. The hose you show there does look very impressive. It's in a vice, correct? You removed it and placed it in a vice? Nice. That hose - at least on the 5.3 engine - goes from the crankcase to the intake. The hose goes up. At least on my vehicle gravity easily allows any oil to flow back down into the crankcase. I have removed mine and I will admit mine does not look as clean as yours (although depending on a number of factors I imagine they wouldn't look the same). Here's mine (top and bottom. Top is spotless. Gravity drains the oil back down to the bottom where it shows a little bit of a trace of oil staining, nothing major) Now i I can tell you that this, this hose, looks totally different than what I catch in my catch can, and what it looked like inside my intake (prior to the catch can). I emptied my catch can last week. I'll have to post a picture of what I'll catch after 1,000 miles, on an easily driven, well maintained vehicle with 15,000 miles on it. You evidently do have some sort of outstanding driving and maintenance methods if you are avoiding this. And to that, congratulations. You are doing something that I personally could not.
I'm burning around a half a quart in 5,000 miles, so I'd say you're doing excellent. Plus my truck only has 15,000 miles on it. This light weight oil is doing no favors to engines and oil consumption nowadays. I wish they'd design an engine that uses 5w30 again, and still manage to get under their CAFE regulations. I probably will switch to 5w30 eventually but I worry about variable valve timing and the AFM system and how it uses the oil to activate those systems.
Signature series I think does have a 6 rating in NOACK, which is excellent, but keep in mind you're talking about a $12 a quart oil = $96 dollar oil change, not including the filter. Any Dexos approved oil has to have a NOACK bellow 13. Most name brand synthetic 0w20 oils are between 10-12. I think direct injection engines are causing a lot of our oil to mist right through the PCV valve system. And I think fuel sprayed directly on the piston/cylinder walls is another part of the problem. I've read the fuel is mixing with the oil on the walls and actually igniting. I've also heard particulates are accumulating on piston ring lands, causing the rings to become "stuck", which is leading to too much consumption and blowby. I've heard the rings are in worse shape than in Diesel engines. I'll be monitoring my Silverado closely - right now I'm only burning a half a quart between 5,000 mile intervals - but I have personally seen Silverados burning three quarts between 5,000 mile changes. I have already dealt with excessive oil consumption in my previous direct injected vehicle (Lexus LS 460). It began using a quart every 1,000 miles. And I took damn good care of that car - I was absolutely anal with maintenance - and I babied that thing like you wouldn't believe. No car on the road had an easier highway commute.
You seem to value maintenance and take pride in prolonging the life exptency of a vehicle, I do too. You mentioned in another post that you can control what goes into your intake (probably by driving your vehicle responsibly and maintaining it correctly). You're going to disagree with me here, but I'm going to tell you that you can't. That you will be shocked at just what is going into your intake, through the PCV valve system, in a direct injection engine. I too thought I could just "take it easy" on my gas pedal, maintain my new truck and I wouldn't experience half the stuff others do. Wrong. My 2018 Silverado - with only 15,000 easily driven, well maintained miles - experiences what I'd call pretty substantial oil/mist/fuel/blowby, entering my intake through my PCV system. I installed a catch can and I have been somewhat shocked at what it is catching. And I'm not talking water, I'm talking oil that looks as if it's been diluted with fuel (probably because it is ). I was in a variable valve timing class last week, I asked the instructor what he thought of oil catch cans. He said he absolutely recommends them on any direct injection vehicle. That he has one himself. Then half the hands in the class went up, and they had the catch cans too. I've had mine for the last 2,000 miles or so.
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