I service several of these trucks, I have never seen one come in not low on oil (6,000 mile intervals). Now out of the 12-15 trucks we service, I'd only consider two to be oil consumers (can't make it past 3k miles without the low oil light coming on). The others are in need of 3/4's to a 1 quart...which I don't consider terrible over a 6,000 mile oil change interval. My own 2018 Silverado has consumed a little oil since new...I generally go through 3/4's of a quart over 5,000 miles. I will say that since I started using Rotella Gas Truck 0w20, it is using less oil now (maybe 1/2 quart). Don't know why, don't know how...supposedly the oil has a low Noack rating, but I'm not convinced that's why. It's probably due to weather conditions. But I don't consider 3/4's of a quart bad for an 8 cylinder, direct injected engine. I think oil consumption is what you're going to get with direct injection nowadays. You should see what we are seeing. Low oil?? How about no oil? Customers coming in with almost ZERO oil after 3,000 miles on their relatively new direct injected vehicles...Honda, Hyundai, GM, Audi, VW, BMW, Kia. I'm talking almost nothing. And Honda?? What the hell happened to that company?? Oil consumption, fuel dilution, bad injectors, software, nothing working right on their interiors. I mean, this company went from the penthouse to the outhouse in five years. Yet they still charge penthouse prices. And GM? I'll say this, just from what I've seen from their cars and SUV's, we are lucky to own their truck. It's the best thing they make.
I only use top tier fuel. I put a bottle of seafoam in the tank and I've been running super for the week. Will see how it goes. Truck doesn't run terrible. No rough idle. Check engine light hasn't come back on since the "event". I'll give it another week or so...see if it improves or doesn't come back. Not real confident based off what I've been reading about injectors.
Been getting this kind of bogged down thing going on when going up a hill on the highway. You can feel it kind of sputtering before it corrects itself and gets going. Last week it happened and the check engine light started flashing - engine immediately smoothed out and it was fine - light went out in less than 20 seconds. Pulled the code, cylinder five misfire. I pulled the plug, plug looks great. Was worried it'd be covered in oil because it is the cylinder that is right underneath where the PCV inlet on the manifold is, but it was clean. I swapped the coils with cylinder five and drove it with a scanner, checking for live data. Random misfires would pop up here and there...not much going on with number 5 until I climbed a hill, then 7 misfires. It happened again the next day, 14 misfires while going up another big climb. I didn't really watch Fuel trim closely. i checked it once in the morning after ten minutes of driving in 19 degree weather...it was -25. That can't be good. Fuel economy has dropped some, but I attributed that to the cold weather driving (my fuel economy always drops in cold weather). It's a 2018 5.3 Silverado with 45,000 miles. Bought new. Oil changes every 5,000 miles. Easy daily highway commute, no towing, no plowing. Easy life. I guess the question i have is...is this the injectors? And more importantly, has anyone tried aftermarket injectors? Like the ones I keep seeing on amazon and Ebay for short money - I want to replace all 8 if I'm going in there - I imagine replacing all 8 with OE injectors would run my close to a grand...I don't want to spend a grand on a truck that just came out of bumper to bumper warranty, that I'm still making payments on. And let's just say that I don't exactly have much faith in the OE injectors at this point anyway. I'm not opposed to buying aftermarket and having to do this jog again in another 45k miles, I just don't want to do this job in say, 500 miles because the injectors were a scam and total garbage. Anyone have any experience with these aftermarket injectors??
Mine is not showing a lot of misfires either, have your friend look at the fuel trim adaptives , both long and short term adaptives. Mine was reading -25. That tells me I have an injector probably leaking a bit and the computer is trying to compensate by taking away fuel. I also turn on the fuel economy portion of the digital readout on the dash and I can see the fuel economy gauge kind of going up, then down...like the computer is trying to correct it. I really need to keep an eye on this, I don't smell fuel, which is a good thing...and I've pulled my oil dipstick, it doesn't smell like fuel but then again maybe it does? I can't really tell - I do think it's strange that I'm at 5,000 miles of my interval and I'm still at the "full" mark. That never happens, I always use some oil between changes and have to add. Not this time. Makes me wonder if I have fuel in there. I might change my oil today and track it.
From everything I've been reading it sounds like an injector. I'm having a similar situation going with cylinder number 5. Not as bad as yours yet, but I'm getting a slight misfire occasionally when going up a hill on the highway. Only one check engine light so far, it cleared up on it's own in minutes. The light flashed. Came on. Then went out, but I did feel the misfire. I have hooked the scan tool up and see a misfire her... a misfire there on every cylinder on occasion. Looks pretty normal. But twice the cylinder five acted up when on the highway (going up a hill, giving it some gas, etc). 7 misfires once, then 14 the second time. Fuel trim was in the negative...-24 long term fuel trim. That was checking it after five miles of driving, cold start, probably 20 degrees outside. I wish I had checked it when it warmed up but I was too busy watching the misfire counter. Pulled the spark plug, it looked great. Moved the coil to another plug. Still got some misfire hits on cylinder 5. But if you are getting the rough idle upon start up...from what I've read that's a sign of the injector. I'm going to try to run super through it for a few weeks...maybe put a fuel additive in it. Don't think it will help. Cylinder 5 is right under where the PVC valve dumps into the intake. I run a catch can...part of me thinks the cold weather is dumping liquid vapor right into cylinder 5, but I doubt that too. I have 45,000 miles on my 2018 Silverado 5.3 - not real happy to be honest - expected much more from this vehicle than this. This thing is babied and well well cared for. I'll see how it goes. I'll try to live with it until it gets worse...and who knows? Maybe it won't get worse, but from what I've been reading, these injectors are the real story behind these engines...probably more so than the AFM failures and torque converters. Doesn't look like too bad of a job to do, but when you're in there you might as well do all 8 injectors...what's that going to cost? $480? $600?
Wonder if the added weight weight changed the alignment angles just a touch? You may have added a tiny bit more negative caster to the equation...steering might feel a little looser, might not return to center as easily/quick...but place a drag on the tires? Probably not unless it changed the camber setting...may have added a bit more negative camber to the equation, not sure on toe. And this is just when considering the additions to the front, not the accident you had. Because you have yourself a rather large drop in fuel economy...someone else mentioned rear axle tracking to the front. I agree. Also consider the time of year it is - it's colder - my fuel economy has dropped 3 mpg over the past three weeks, it's gotten cold. Cold = less fuel economy.
I think all of us can say the same thing about our first transfer case fluid change...most of us had the metal on that magnet and the fluid discoloration. It's normal break-in stuff. I changed mine out at around the same mileage point. My first year of owning my truck I only used 4wd a handful of times (easy winter). But this winter has been a different story - we're barley into January and I've already had to use the 4wd ten times - just last week I found myself in a 2 hour commute through a snow storm...4wd the entire time. Cars all over the road. I'm getting my money's worth out of that transfer case fluid change this year. Haha.
I have 44,000 miles on my truck now, I think I've done my rear diff twice (once with Mobil1 and the other with a mixture of Mobil1 and Redline because I ran out of one). I've done my transfer case once, my front diff once. I'll probably do the front diff and transfer case after the winter again. I've done a couple services to my transmission...I exchanged 4 quarts (in and out of the dipstick tube) at 22,000 miles, then I did a pan drop filter replacement at 40,000 miles. Magnet looked good - probably won't do anything but simple fluid exchanges through the dipstick tube from here till 100,000 plus. My rule of thumb has always been change all of these fluids between 20,000-30,000 miles and you may not ever have a problem. Then again you might. Lol. Or you can let it ride 50,000-100,000 and have problems. Or maybe not. Haha.
I take frame rust prevention to extremes - I fluid Film the frame twice a year and I do touch ups with white lithium grease when it's in for oil changes. So far it's done pretty good, I'm in my third winter with the truck and there's a good amount of protection on that frame to keep the salt at bay. But man it's a tough battle, just the other day I drove 100 miles through a snow storm, there must have been 100 pounds of salt on my truck when I got home.
Lol. I think she'll be fine, it was more the older models. Haven't heard anything on the newer models...maybe some electrical issues...entertainment/information/technology glitches, but haven't heard anything mechanically.
Yeah I agree. And that Honda mini van your father in law had trouble with, he wasn't alone. The Honda Odyssey's had issues with oil consumption. Ring replacement recall as well depending on VIN. Probably didn't help that Honda decided to allow their oil life monitors to go as far out as they did (on conventional oil). I have met more than one tech that has left Honda because of their ridiculously low labor times to change out the rings on that motor. Slave labor.
I knew about the TBN and TAN, but in the used analysis I didn't know what the TAN was in the report. You're assuming it was high? Ok , makes sense, especially if your Redline edged up that high (on a much shorter interval I assume). I like my fluids changed before manufacturer recommendations. Especially engine oil. It just makes me feel "better". I'm at 44,000 miles now; my tranny has been changed twice, diffs twice, transfer case once. The only fluid I haven't touched is the coolant - that's probably the only fluid I may keep in there at or close to factory recommendations (but I'll probably get antsy and change it at 90K). One thing I do wonder about...if I should perhaps bump it up to a 5w30 at some point. Curious your opinion on that. Edit-- and I do have some crazy stories about people and their oil change habits. But never changing the oil or filter? That takes the cake.
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