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Doublebase last won the day on April 15

Doublebase had the most liked content!

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About Doublebase

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    2018 Chevy Silverado 5.3 4x4 double cab
  1. Grumpy Bears 2015 Silverado 2WD

    I have 33,000 miles on my truck now (bought her new April last year). I was on pace for 30,000 miles before the year was out, so I decided to stop using it on weekends and take the wife's Honda when we go out. It's a pain to park anyway, and honestly it may save it a few dents and dings. But I'll still be driving 25-28k a year regardless (80 mile round trip commute) - the problem I have is I drove MOST in the winter months and not much in the summer - as I'm a teacher and off the summers. Before trying the Rotella Gas Truck I was using Pennzoil Platinum almost exclusively (although I did try Super Tech once and I did go in for my "free" oil change at the dealer...lord knows what kind of concoction they threw in it). The Rotella Synthetic Gas Truck appears to have a high moly content, along with a ridiculous amount of hype, marketing and rebates until the end of the year. The oil has gathered a lot of steam on Bob's The Oil Guy, but honestly it's just a gimmick Pennzoil product with more moly and a fancy jug. I keep my oil change intervals to 5,000 miles, the truck isn't pushed hard, I don't haul anything...but it does get driven. Regarding salt...it's my biggest fear. Lol. Honestly, I'm nuts when it comes to rust prevention. I'm constantly looking under there to make sure every part of that frame is protected with something. Right now that frame wax has had three coats of fluid Film put on it. A few weeks ago I removed the tail lights and blasted some fluid Film up behind them (I've seen some of the 2014's rust up behind there). I'm always looking for new things to try, right now I'm stuck on the fluid film simply because I have five gallons of it, once that's gone I may try something else (it washes away a bit too easily for my liking).
  2. Grumpy Bears 2015 Silverado 2WD

    Wow you're driving a lot! Good to see you're still using the redline, and based off of what you're saying, not using much oil between changes. I've stayed with the recommended 0W20, but I may experiment with the 0W30 in the future. Right now I'm using Rotella's Synthetic Gas Truck oil. We'll see how that goes - as my truck generally uses 3/4's of a quart between 5,000 mile intervals. As the weather has warmed up I'm back to averaging 25.9 mpg again (87 octane), set cruise to 68 mph highway, easy on the throttle and most importantly...let the damn thing coast. I love the other side of a hill, this thing will glide it's way to South America if I let it. That is absolutely key for me. I once owned a Dodge Ram (2004), 5.7 liter 4x4 - nice truck but the thing just never could coast - don't know if the gears wouldn't allow it...it would just slow down and demand that fuel to keep it going...all...of...the...time. I averaged 15 mpg in that thing, and that was with some effort. I've said it before, I'll say it again...the 5.3, whether it's programmed to switch into V4 or whether it's geared to...goes in to V4 a lot. Cruise set to 68 will keep me in V4 mode I'd calculate, 70% of the time. It'll stay in V4 mode almost always on flat highway and it will stay in V4 mode going up some pretty long hills (I don't know the exact grade, not too steep, but it definitely will stay in V4 mode climbing slight highway inclines at 68 mph). I have read that the more frequently your truck is in V4 mode, the more likely you'll have a lifter collapse. Nothing I can or will do about that, if it happens it happens. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it...I can perform the job myself for maybe $800 in parts. If I make it till 150,000 mikes without issue?? That's less than what most people spend to have their timing belts replaced, I'm good with that. And you just reminded me, I need to detail my engine bay...pollen is everywhere. I'll have to be careful...I fluid Film the inside of my engine bay (don't want to wash it all off).
  3. Yeah I haven't either, in fact I bought mine with the assumption (because of what I've read, that covers don't help fuel economy). I just didn't really buy it for that, I bought it so I could leave some things in the bed without them getti rained on, which it works great for. However if it does improve fuel economy, like some are claiming, well that's great.
  4. Yes it is widely known that tonneau covers do not increase fuel economy.
  5. Good points I'll also add...alternator and lower battery voltage due to the cold. It will affect fuel economy when the alternator puts a drag on the engine to charge the battery. Another thing is heated seats and steering wheel...those two things I found to be factors. Cold starts and rich fuel mixtures, tire pressures...on and on. So many factors. It is interesting, and you're right, winter fuel is also one of those factors to consider.
  6. Understood, but air density plays a roll in fuel economy...cold air=more dense. The computer adjust fuel ratios to meet stoichiometric 14.7 to 1 air fuel mixtures...the colder the air, the more dense, means more fuel. Mass air flow sensors, manifold absolute pressure sensors and intake air temperature sensors are easily able to determine air density and temperature. On the same tank of gas, winter blend or not, I will receive better fuel economy when the temps go above 40 degrees. Also on cold morning starts the computer will demand the fuel injectors to pulse width rich until parameters are met (engine temp, closed loop, O2 sensor feedback, etc).
  7. Long Term Carbon Deposits

    Have you changed your spark plugs? I'd do that first, if not. As for the valve cleaning, if the dealer is going to charge you $600 to manually clean them, why not take it to a trusted independent that would probably charge less than that? It can't be hard to remove that intake, it's right there on top...I understand you maybe think you can't do it but it'd be a piece of cake for a tech. I would personally not suggest any cleaners like Sea Foam or CRC at this point...you have 80k miles...if there is carbon there, those cleaners aren't goi to do squat at this point. I'd definitely say a manual cleaning is your best option (if actually needed). I've also read there is a butterfly valve in the intake manifold that can get carboned up and hinder performance (these valves direct different patterns of air turbalance depending on low speed/high speed situations).
  8. My lifetime average in my 2018 5.3 is 24.2 - now it'd be better if I didn't have to drive 5 months out of the year in temps under 40 degrees....once it gets over 40 degrees my mileage improves dramatically. Winter I average 23, summer I average 25.6 I think tires/rim combination makes a big difference. I have the 17's with the Bridgestones that came with the truck, I'm not thrilled with the way they look but they do seem to help in the fuel economy department. I can easliy get this truck into V4 mode by simply getting it up to speed and backing off if the throttle a little bit. Boom, it goes right into V4 and will stay there until I need to accelerate or go up a hill...then I go back into V4. Highway I just set the Cruz at 68 and keep it there unless I need to pass someone or step on the brake (it generally stays in V4 probably 60 percent of the time). I found that intitially I was kind of able to "train myself" by leaving the fuel mileage screen up on the dash to kind of gauge how I was driving and what I was able to accomplish. I'm almost averaging better fuel economy in my V8 4WD truck than my wife is in her 4cyl Honda CRV (pretty damn close).
  9. Long Term Carbon Deposits

    Yelp...there won't be any results to my study, tried to fish my Autel camera into that intake...impossible to get it in there deep enough to get a look at those valves. Only way that's happening is to remove the intake, which I'm not ready to do. I'll be living in mystery until that intake comes off. Lol.
  10. Oil Change - Dealership vs DIY

    Pretty shady. Again this is not normal but stuff does happen.
  11. Oil Change - Dealership vs DIY

    Lol, I know. There's no stealing of the oil filter, it's the not installing them part. I once knew a guy who would sell customers ball joints and then just throw them in the trash. He never even bothered to stash them, he'd just toss them right in the barrel...never even took them out of the packaging. Two ball joints, right in the barrel. Then he'd charge them for an alignment.
  12. Oil Change - Dealership vs DIY

    This absolutely does happen. I worked for dealers when I was younger, I still work in the industry. Now most techs are honest hard working guys, they're making a living and believe me this is a very competitive industry to be successful in...you're hustling, you're working, you're selling repairs, you're going fast as hell. And yes, some are cutting corners. Those oil filters are being "inventoried" when they leave that parts counter, only because they need to order more. Where they go after they are given to the tech? Well no one cares about that. Usually they would go on the car, but yeah sometimes some techs would just throw them into the bottom of their box. Its quicker. It's easier. It's cleaner. A little brake clean on that old filter? Looks brand new. Meanwhile there's 30 oil filters in the bottom of the guy's box. Most techs are honest and very talented people, however I have no respect for what dealerships have done to techs over the last 20 years. They've cut their labor times. They have made it hard for these guys to make a living. Chevy pays around 11 hours to replace the rings in the 5.3. That's taking the engine out, replace the rings, and reinstalling the whole damn thing. Think about that. If a car comes in with some weird electrical problem, you can spend hours trying to figure it out, but they'll only pay you a fraction of that time. They give these guys lousy benefits, they have no retirement, they have almost no sick days, minimal paid vacation and they have to spend thousands every year on their own tools. Techs are jumping ship...dealers are desperate ...yet they still don't want to pay. I have no sympathy for car dealerships.
  13. Oil Change - Dealership vs DIY

    I won't even use my free oil changes that I received when I bought the truck, the dealer is the last place I'd consider. I worked for dealers when I was younger, I'm sure there's plenty of high quality techs working at most, but unfortunately I've seen some real shady stuff go on there. Worked next to a guy who literally wouldn't even bother to change the oil filters, he'd just spray some brake clean on the old one and put the new filter in his tool box...bottom drawer was loaded with them. He wouldn't put all of the new oil in either, he'd always pump a little bit into a container for himself - and he wasn't the only one - more than a few had their own stash going once the dealer started limiting the amount of oil you could pump...it started to get scimmed. The oil quality at the dealer is also something ive always worried about. I remember those trucks coming in and pumping that oil into the containers out back. Where I worked it sure wasn't name brand oil in those tanks out back. There is a thread on bobs the oil guy right now about dealer oil contamination, I found it interesting. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5114556/how-clean-is-the-new-oil-you-use#Post5114556 In the end I just think it's best to change it myself, I know what's going in and I know I'm taking the old stuff out. I know I'm not putting the lift arms under the frame taking off the frame wax. I know I'm not spilling it all over my intake. I know the funnel is clean. I know it's the right oil, the right, level...I know it's a name brand in the right viscosity. And I don't know...I find it relaxing to change it and kind of take inventory of what's going on under my truck every 5,000 miles. I can check and see if I need undercoating in a few spots. Take a look at the brakes...check for tranny or engine pan leaks. It's piece of mind really.
  14. Long Term Carbon Deposits

    No I did read it all, and I understood it. You haven't had problems up until the 150,000-180,000 you owned your trucks. Your money is/was spent on mods (I'm assuming instead of paint protection or catch cans). And despite that you had no problems up until the 150,000 miles when you traded them in. So you're trying to make the point that you can own a vehicle till 150,000 without worry, and even beat on it. I would say that's correct. I would say most vehicles should make it to 130,000-150,000 without major repair, without much effort. I would also say that with longer driving commutes to work, there are plenty of people looking to get more than 150,000 miles out of their vehicles. I really don't see how a $29 dollar catch can is hurting anything in the grand scheme of things. Maybe it's keeping the valves a little cleaner? That's not a bad thing or waste of time. It's certainly not a waste of money. It's an easy install. It's no big deal by any stretch of the imagination. I mean I'd consider it to the level of buying, opening and installing an air freshener. It's that simple...two hoses and a clamp. The thing that bugs me is the whole...my catch can is better than yours. My catch can is special. If you don't use my catch cans, you'll go straight to hell. How could you not use our catch cans? Don't you want the best catch cans? I caught a unicorn once in my catch can - and it was happy I did - then I just let it go in some majestic Forrest right down the street. I can still here it galloping if I listen closely. Isn't that the catch can you want? That's the stuff I can't stand.
  15. Long Term Carbon Deposits

    Yeah I just think you said it yourself...you don't know or care what a vehicle does after 150,000 miles, and that's certainly fine. For the people that keep them long term, or drove a ton of miles, life after 150,000 miles is a very real environment we live in.

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