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Doublebase

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Doublebase last won the day on April 15

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About Doublebase

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  1. Good for you, you’re probably at that point where you’re wondering if you should keep going or get out of the trade. I’d suggest...go back to school nights - maybe you already have a degree, maybe an associates through a school that offered automotive - if so I’d go and get your bachelors and maybe head into the management side of the business, or at the very least leave yourself some options. They make these cars too good, you’re going to have to up sell everything. Even GM (who has their problems) still makes a pretty good vehicle. And once GM throws port injection into their direct injection systems? There goes the valve cleaning service. And if you’re doing diagnostics right now, you know you’re getting the fuzzy end of the lollipop (the dealer is not going to pay you for your time, the customer isn’t, GM isn’t, it’s not right).
  2. Shouldn’t you be changing wiper blades or something? Maybe selling some nitrogen for tires? Oh, what ground braking stuff! Clean a throttle plate! Oh my! Carbon builds up on valves! Well thank you, very informative. Now why don’t you take some before and after pictures of those valves, that carbon buildup...and the results of your three part induction service. That’s if they let the lube techs remove an intake nowadays. Anyone on here can install a catch can and spend 10 bucks on some CRC valve cleaner, clean the throttle plate, spray it in the intake (on a hot engine no less!), and buy some Techron and be done with it. And guess what? It’s not going to do a thing. You haven’t worked for GM for very long, have you? You realize that GM will “try” every cheap half assed “solution” before they “fix” anything, right? I mean, even the lube techs know that...or at least they see and hear it from the real techs. The only way carbon is going to be prevented from going on those valves is if that induction cleaner is administered every time that engine is turned on - and that’s called port injection - the thing before DI, and the thing manufacturers are reintroducing along with their direct injection systems. That’s it, hate to break it to you. And thanks for for posting a GM technical service bulletin, there once was a bulletin for intermediate shafts on all their passenger cars. The first one told us to take the shaft off and “stroke it” fifteen times and then reassemble. When that didn’t work they told us to inject a syringe into it and fill it with a wax. When that didn’t work they told us to replace the shafts, by that point it didn’t really matter. PS— at 19,000 miles your induction cleaner would be covered under warranty if it was a repair, which it is not (because there’s nothing broken). And it’s also not part of the vehicle’s manufacture maintenance schedule, it’s an up sell.
  3. First off, learn how to read, it goes a long way. Where did I say I just came in unannounced and “expect them to rush me ahead of everyone else”? I had an appointment. And second, I know what I’m talking about, I’ve worked in the industry for over 30 years and I’m an ASE master tech. Just because you’re a glorified lube tech selling “induction cleaners”, means nothing to me. The fact that you actually believe an induction cleaning is necessary at 19,000 miles - or even going to do anything at any mileage - is absolutely laughable to me. I’m getting secondary embarrassment for you, I really am. Tell you what, after you’re done with an oil change, walk over to a lead tech’s bay and ask him if you can pour some solvent/cleaner/whatever fancies you, onto a head he’s removed or a set of valves that has carbon on it and find out for yourself that it does NOTHING unless you scrape It. Zip. Hell let it sit for a week, add heat to it, sprinkle your hopes and dreams on it...it’s not going to budge, and IF IT DID on a real live engine, you’d have carbon chunks getting tossed into your combustion chamber, scraping the walls. But don’t worry, that won’t happen, the carbon will just laugh at it. Plz learn to comprehend, go back to school and stop smelling the glue.
  4. I'll never go back for my next "free oil change", after what I went through with my first one. First I called a dealer, they said...we don't have a quick lube, you'll have to make an appointmentment and right now we're two weeks out. No thanks. Then I called another, they said based on my mileage I didn't need one...umm, I'm not into going 7,500 mikes on oil changes, can I just get one now? Well I gues you can, but we're two weeks out. Really? Then I finally found one that was "only" two days out, so I went there...I sat Inc that waiting room for two hours. Two. Fell asleep on a sofa - woke up with the service writer apologizing that it took so long - won't be back, I'll never go back. as for an induction cleaning at 19,000 miles??? Lmao! If your truck needs an induction "cleaning" at 19,000 miles, time to trade in the truck and never buy that brand again. Laughable. And let me tell you how they'd perform that induction cleaning...the Tech would through the bottle of "induction cleaning solution" in his bottom tool box drawer...boom, you got your induction cleaning! Would you like a brake fluid flush?? It's only $110 bucks, were having a sale. And that would consist of the tech opening the hood, maybe turkey basting your master cylinder, then spraying the master cylinder cap off with brake clean (just to make it look like they did something).
  5. Yes, definitely the direct injected AFM engines. I too have some old fashioned port injected, non cylinder deactivation engines in the family and non of them really use oil. I mean, I might use half a quart in 6,000 miles, but that's about it...meanwhile my own, well cared for 2018 5.3 Silverado uses around 3/4's of a quart in 5,000 miles (more in the winter). And this is mostly easy easy highway miles...80 miles a day. Truck has 38,000 babied, well cared for miles on it. But I love the truck...runs great and I am starting to see some high mileage newer Silverados and they have been relatively trouble free.
  6. I'll tell you what...I have yet to see one of these trucks come in not low on oil...the longer the interval, the lower the level. Just saw one today...10,000 mile interval...hardly a drop on the stick. I had a guy on here tell me that he does 15,000 mile oil changes and only uses half a quart. Yeah rigggggght. Oh ok. Winner winner chicken dinner! We have found our winner!
  7. Fair enough. And I have seen situations where people have been told “replace the engine”, because of that spark plug fouling from oil, and the person was able to drive the truck several more years.
  8. If the dealer is telling him he needs a new engine, I imagine there’s more to this story than we are hearing, like...how often has the oil been changed? What’s the overall condition of the engine? Are there other documented issues? and I agree with what another poster said, but a low mileage used engine for $3,000 and have it installed. Done. Rather do that than try and fix an engine that the dealer is telling him it needs replacement.
  9. It's been two weeks and around 1,200 miles since i topped off my coolant, checked it this morning and it's right where it's supposed to be. So I haven't lost anything. On a related note, the place where I work has serviced 6 of these trucks in that time span...I went over and checked the coolant levels on all of them...every single one of them was a half inch to an inch bellow the full line...with one bone dry (that one had a small leak on the radiator). The others were fine. Two of the six trucks had leaking AC condensers. All of them where in for regular service (oil changes 6,000 miles). One truck was over 7,000 miles into their interval and there was no oil on the dipstick...all of the others were at least a half quart, to a quart low. Mileages on the trucks ranged from 29,000 miles to 75,000 miles. For the most part these trucks are pretty reliable - I'd say the biggest thing I'm noticing is AC condensers and oil consumption.
  10. I have used a mightyvac on the transmission but I couldn't use it on the oil...couldn't get the tube down the dipstick tube.
  11. Yeah I use the seafoam or CRC and run it right through the catch can hose, don't know if it helps, kind of doubt it...but I always say when regarding truck maintenance...if it makes you feel good, do it. Plain and simple. There's a certain satisfaction in thinking that what you are doing is helping and I think that is important in long term car ownership...it keeps you going, it's pride of ownership. And sometimes it really does help in the long run.
  12. The manifold is basically a vacuum cleaner, having said that, perhaps the grooves the oil was stuck in were deep enough to not be touched by the vacuum or turbulence of in rushing air? But you have 8 cylinders going down on the intake stroke creating vacuum, drawing in air from those runners. I mean when that throttle plate snaps shut, there's a pretty strong pull in that manifold going on...but then again you may be right if there was that much oil in there just pooling around.
  13. I would think that most of the oil you saw in your intake was relatively fresh and often replenished whenever you used your car. When the engine is running there is a lot of vacuum and turbulence inside that manifold, wet oil should be sucked into the cylinders and burned. A product like Seafoam or CRC intake cleaner, is not designed to clean oil out of a manifold, but rather carbon deposits left by the oil and byproducts of combustion...and in all honesty I don't think it's even doing much of that (if anything at all). Carbon deposits and varnish need continuous application of a solvent to remove deposits. A one time application every 5,000-10,000 miles is not going to do much of anything. But yet I still do it...probably because I like to fool myself that it's doing something (it makes me feel good, lol). In all honesty, some carbon deposits are very hard to remove and require much more than a solvent - usually carbon needs to be sand blasted or scraped off of a surface - the only cleaner I've seen remove carbon is the types used in dunk tanks, and it's very caustic. You place the part into an agitator filled with a corrosive cleaner, close the lid and let the machine agitate the fluid/part for 30-40 minutes. Nasty stuff.
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