I have the exact same catch can, works great! I've had it for about two years now, not one single issue and it's catching lots of oil. Quality product. I'm not saying it's "as good" as a $200 hundred dollar catch can, but this thing doesn't act, look or feel like a $25 dollar piece of equipment.
What year and how many miles? Edit — Didn’t realize you were the OP. You already gave the year and miles. So it was the injector? Good to know. Price seems high for an independent shop. So you just changed one? I guess I can’t blame you, it’d cost you another grand for the rest.
It appears that way. It’s obviously a buyer’s market right now, BUT that changes dramatically when you have to trade something in. Because in a sense you are now not really the “buyer”, you’re also now the seller. And they will take full advantage of that.
I don’t know much about these particular trucks, but here’s one near me. Brand new out the door. https://www.springfieldbuickgmc.com/VehicleDetails/new-2019-GMC-Sierra_1500-Crew_Cab_4WD_AT4_Rocky_Ridge_Alpine%2FK2-North_Springfield-VT/3539253033
How so? Do your research on the vehicle you are purchasing...what people are actually paying for that vehicle right now. Rebates, out the door price. That’s the “other end”. Dealers will often give you “more” in trade to trick you into thinking you got a good deal, then they simply won’t give you the money off on the other end. Happens every single day. Everyday.
Had the same issue with a non AFM cylinder...think it was cylinder 5. Pulled the plug, swapped coils. Had misfires while going up hills occasionally. Ran some Techron through a couple times, seems fine now. It’s worth a try, otherwise probably needs an injector. Edit— 2018 with 45,000 miles (at the time), now at 50,000. Still get a stutter occasionally on the highway while going up hills, sort of a stumble and loss of power. Check engine light hasn’t come back on and I can avoid it if I’m more into the throttle before approaching the hill. Not exactly what I was expecting out of a truck I bought new and is now not even two years old.
Be careful with advice from people that work at the dealer. Keep in mind the service writer or salesman knows next to nothing about your truck, and most likely won’t be working there in a year (or less). my brother-in-law is a service manager at a large Honda dealer in my area, trust me, these guys know almost nothing about cars, trucks, the manufacturer or warranty repair guidelines. Two years ago when I bought my truck, the service writer told me my brake vacuum pump was the power steering pump. I said, you sure? I thought these things had electric steering. He changed the subject and started telling me about the “all new” frame coating the GM uses, and how it wouldn’t rust. He points to it - and there literally is surface rust around the bed cross members. I’m like, isn’t that rust? He’s like, no, that’s just part of the prep paint. I‘m serious.
Yes it will void your warranty if you leave it on when you bring the truck in for repairs, so take it off. Technically they are only supposed to be able to void your warranty if it directly effects whatever repair you need, but GM can be very unforgiving with warranty repairs and would love to deny you for this (among other things).
Breaking -- From the CDC -- Use of Amsoil products (especially Signature Series), creates Coronavirus antibodies. The world is saved. One Amsoil oil change will spread antibodies to any person within 15 feet of your vehicle. And I'm hearing that Amsoil is creating a new, even better formula called Amsoil Delta Force 9. This oil will provide protection within 5 miles of your home, without even opening the bottle. I'll post more information as I get it, but until then, stay safe, pay attention to your TBN and for the love of god, buy the best oil you can afford.
I think it comes down to this, what do you want? Do you want “performance” or “protection”? If you want “performance” you’re going to need more air flow - more air flow will let more contaminants in - and if that’s ok with you, then do it. You’re one of those guys that’s probably going to trade the vehicle in way before you notice any damage. And you’ll get your .5 mpg increase and 2 extra horsie power. And if you want “protection”, I mean ultimate protection...well, you’d probably be best served to go twice the recommended change interval for your air filter. It’ll filter more if it’s clogged up with whatever it caught in the filter element. You’ll lose some air flow, you’ll lose some power and you’ll lose some fuel economy. But you’ll get your protection. What I do, is I change my filters every 30,000 miles now. I got a little tired of throwing away filters at 15-20k miles that looked like they were brand new. I actually kind of buy the old, “dirty filters filter better”, point of view. I’ve watched videos on it, it makes sense, and I don’t have to worry about letting it go a little longer. And to me, 30,000 miles isn’t a lot of driving...I do that in a year...mostly highway, no dirt road driving.
Definitely worth a walnut blast on this valves. Good thing about our intakes...only takes 20 minutes to remove...another hour or so blasting the valves and another 20 minutes on the install. Not bad considering it’s probably only necessary to do, every 100,000 miles or so.
Update — I’m now 5,000 miles into my interval and I’ve not used any oil between changes. No top up whatsoever. This is two times in a row with this oil, simply amazing. Owned the truck since new...50,000 miles...always had to add oil between intervals. This oil seems to work great. I’ve used the following oils since new...carquest synthetic, Pennzoil Platinum and two dealer (whatever they used) oil changes. I’ve also used Super Tech once. The Rotella Gas Truck seems pretty darn good.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 119 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,959 Guests (See full list)
- Greg Neumann
- David Scruggs
- Crazy Schooner
- Turd Ferguson
- Bill Gutman
- Ken Arnold
- Booger T
- Dave Spickard
- Andrew Straschinske
- Eric Paszkiewicz
- Brandon Adams
- Trent Ortego
- Tony Higgins