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Doublebase last won the day on April 15 2019

Doublebase had the most liked content!

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  1. You shouldn't be hearing your lifters, they are hydraulic - if you are hearing your lifters, there is a problem. You could be hearing your injectors, they are much louder than what people are accustomed to in the sense that modern engines use direct injection.
  2. That's great because I enjoy reading your build threads - as I enjoy vehicle longevity and maintenance. Low tension rings are certainly a problem nowadays, mostly with poor oil quality and neglect. And with manufacturers telling their customers that they can go 10,000 miles on their oil changes - knowing full well that they are only on the hook until that warranty ends - they are seeing problems at around 120,000 miles. And the manufacturer doesn't care. Those rings just don't have enough tension to come out of their lands when they get sooted and sludged up. They stay stuck in there. First the oil ring, then the compression rings, then your cylinder wall get scored, then it's game over. But that takes time and I think it can be prevented and even slowed down enough with the methods you are implementing (if the walls aren't damaged). And if the rings aren't too stuck. Shorter intervals, periodic piston soaks. As you know, I now own a Toyota. Life has become almost boring. No oil consumption, no issues with the car. Just take care of it and drive it a ton. But Toyotas ARE developing engine problems now because of their 10,000 mile suggested drain interval. And it's not happening until later on (around the 100,000-120,00 mile mark). But there are youtube videos about it from Toyota techs. And if you ever talk to a Toyota tech, most of them will tell you the same thing...don't go 10,000 miles, stick between 4,000-5,5000 using a nice quality synthetic. My previous vehicle before my Silverado was a Lexus LS460, and I made the mistake of trying extended drains (as people were saying the 10,000 mile intervals applied to our cars too). Well, a few of us tried that on the forums...everything went great until we hit that higher mileage area of 120,000 miles. Then the oil consumption started...and got worse and worse. Ended up keeping mine until at 180,000 miles - at that point it was using around a quart every 1,000 miles - didn't try the piston soak, wish I had. Probably still have that car today, if I had.
  3. I know you’re not going to listen to me, but I would not replace the engine in that thing. I’d continue to buy the Kirkland oil and run 3,000 mile oil change intervals and see if I could eventually get the vehicle to 200,000 miles and then trade it in, with the assumption that it’ll just go to auction, where someone will buy it for cheap or it’ll get shipped overseas. Oil consumption isn’t the worst thing in the world, it does naw at you, especially when you take care of a vehicle. It’s happened to me, but you can really keep an oil user going for a very long time with a little care and attention. But to spend on an engine on a vehicle with 133,800 miles on it? You could lose the transmission at 150,000. Or the engine you put in could very well suffer the same issue, or entirely new ones. There’s just so much that goes wrong when shops put engines in...they route a ground the wrong way and you have mysterious electrical issues. Something rubs against the exhaust (because it’s routed wrong) and you’re dumping coolant or transmission fluid. I’ve seen a Jeep Commander catch completely on fire six months after an engine replacement...fuel line was chafing against something and boom. Whole truck burnt to a crisp. I’m not saying it happens to every single repair, but it does happen. And to me, if you have to replace the engine, it’s a failed experiment. You bought the the car, you took care of it and it didn’t even matter. The engine needed replacing. I’d just keep that thing going and drive it to 200,000 or more. Just my opinion.
  4. That happened to me...cylinder five misfire. Pulled the plug, looked ok. Happened randomly when I would be driving up a hill on the highway. People around here thought perhaps injectors, maybe torque converter...ended up trading it in at 52,000 miles because I just didn't want to deal with stuff like that on a vehicle with that low of miles. But it would drive me crazy! Stuttering going up a hill, check engine light flashing, then it would just go away. And come back maybe a week or two later.
  5. Mine started acting up at 45,000 miles. Did a pan drop and filter change, no help. Torque converter shudder. Sold it with 52,000 miles. Truck was babied from day one, mostly highway mileage, never towed, never hauled anything, bone stock tires and rims. Well maintained, made no difference. And I wasn't the only one that I personally knew with the same problem.
  6. You're not going to get much out of the breather vents, most of the oil comes from the crankcase and PCV valve portion. But yeah, I like catch cans, they at the very least catch oil and don't harm anything. Easy to install, easy to remove. In winter time just make sure you empty it every couple weeks to prevent freezing. Pretty simple. I own a port injected vehicle now, otherwise I'd install a catchcan on it.
  7. I wouldn’t do it, I sold my 2018 Silverado this summer for $24,500. 52,000 miles. I got ZERO offers on the truck (was asking $26,500). Not one single legitimate offer/interest until a local dealer so it online and offered me $23,500 for it. We settled on $24,500. My truck was in totally mint condition...never towed, plowed, hauled anything. Babied. ALL highway mileage, religiously maintained. So to pay $20,000 on a truck with over 100,000? No thanks.
  8. If the battery in new, then most likely it’s the starter. Starter failures are pretty common on these trucks. Some have also noticed connection problems at the starter, either way a starter replacement would handle both issues.
  9. If you have a mighty vac and you don’t want to bother with dropping the pan, you can quickly exchange three quarts out of the dipstick tube. Unless it’s the 8-speed, think that’s sealed. As for the transfer case and diffs?? Absolute piece of cake. DEX Vl for the transfer case and although the rear diff calls for 75W85, you’ll have no problem putting the 75W90 the front differential calls for, into the rear. In fact I think you’d find that a lot of independent shops would do the same. Been using 75W90 for all my doffs that call for 75W85 since 2013 (back when I owned a Lexus LS460). Never anything even close to an issue, in fact some prefer the ever so slightly heavier fluid. But this^^^entire job should take the average guy less than an hour to complete and run you $80 bucks in fluid (on the high side). That’s if you do it yourself. An independent shop might charge you $250
  10. That's a shame that you have to go through that, hopefully it was under warranty for you. I started having some random misfire issues when I owned mine, but the event seemed to really happen mostly when under load going up a hill. I couldn't really ever figure out what it was...it wasn't the plug or coil, I figured it was the injector...and when I drove with a scan tool hooked up to it watching the data display, it did appear as if all the cylinders would have random misfire events, and it also appeared that fuel trim levels were in pretty severe negative range for the first ten miles of driving or so. (meaning fuel needed to be taken away). I have since read on this site that random misfires are common on these trucks (probably I'm guessing from the injectors) and honestly most probably don't even notice it happening. So I think you're right, there is an issue with their injectors - and I think it'll be a cold day in hell before GM does something about it.
  11. I'd keep an eye on that, that shouldn't have sparked unless it was a loose connection. That's generally a fool proof connection. Big wire, low resistance...a few people have complained of a spark at the starter. Was the connection loose?
  12. I mean, there's probably a million "upper engine/carbon cleaners" available on the market right now...CRC, BG, Seafoam, Amsoil. You can walk into any parts store and get something, so no, I wouldn't pay for an upper engine clean/ring soak. especially a ring soak - a proper soak is an overnight thing - I can guarantee that isn't part of the equation from a repair shop. And $480 does seem a little steep for plugs and wires....figure $150-$200 for plugs and wires and 1-2 hours labor at 120 an hour. Alright, I guess some places could hit you for $440, tops, so maybe it's not that high, but I'd shop around. $350 sounds more reaasonable.
  13. Yes, very common I'd say. It feels like sort of a "fish biting" sensation...when a fish is biting your bait and you feel the rod. That's the way it felt for me, others have said the same on this forum. I think the direct injection perhaps has a little low speed pre ignition going on when the engine isn't warned up, and it goes away when it is.
  14. I had an unexplained misfire event in my 2018 at around 45,000 miles....think it was cylinder five. Flashing check engine light - lasted maybe 10 seconds and then it went out. Pulled plugs, swapped coils, ran it driving home with a scanner hooked up. Light never did come back on, but I’ll tell yeah, that engine had random misfires as I watched live stream data. It also was minus 20 on fuel trim at some points. For five thousand miles later the check engine light didn’t return, but I could feel either a misfire under load going up hills or it was torque converter shutter. Pulled pan, changed filter in tranny....no metal was found, everything looked good. I like things to run right, it bothers me when they don’t...it bothers me when someone is in my truck and says...what’s that? Is that a misfire? I can feel that. Your truck is almost brand new, that shouldn’t be happening. Dealer was no help. Ended up selling it with 52,000 absolutely babied and well cared for miles. I’m talking BABIED...80% highway miles at 68 mph. Never towed, hauled, original rims, easy easy life. Every fluid meticulously changed and maintained. Dealer bought it from me for $24,500.
  15. And Vl stands for viscosity improvers? If so, how do those effect oil (negatively I should say)? Regarding tranny service - Looks like you’ve exchanged the fluid several times (outside of the pan drop the first time). Inline filter? Now, if you install an inline filter, will you be doing that so you won’t have to remove the pan and change the filter in the future? Or are you doing that for additional filtering? I always consider ATF “clean”...at least clean compared to other fluids on the car. I don’t think I’ve even really seen much of anything in a transmission filter. Yet I do think it’s important to change them every 50k or so. Then again I know people that have never changed them without issue (but that’s just not my style). My Avalon has 51,000 miles on it an I performed three drain and fills. Fluid was DARK. That’s the thing with Toyota WS fluid, it turns dark real fast after the factory fill. I really need to do a pan drop and filter - it’s just that I hate to do something like that on my back - usually I have access to a lift, but not due to the quarantine/virus right now. I may end up crawling under there anyway...not real happy with the results of three drain and fills. Well keep motoring, Grumpy...weather is warm, roads are clear of salt. Enjoy your summer!
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