Well I'm at 21,000 miles now (in eight months), no real problems yet, knock on wood. I have fluid filmed the truck twice now - I've experienced no damage to the frame wax because of the fluid film - it actually seems to keep the wax supple. No rust whatsoever under the truck, yet. I just did a drain and fill on the transmission...sucked four quarts (or whatever it was) out and replenished it with new fluid. I've added a catch can since my last entry, drain it every 2,000 miles or so. Everything seems fine, it catches stuff, I drain it. Nothing magical. My gas mileage has dropped to 22.5 due to the constant cold weather I've been driving in since November. Great truck so far! It gets up and goes when you need it, and it's quiet and smooth. I honestly can't get over how quiet the interior of this truck is...quieter than my Lexus ever was (not kidding). The truck does kind of "fish bite" until it is warmed up. Not super thrilled with the transmission between the speeds of 30-40 mph...seems to hunt around as the AFM switches back and forth. But it's really small potatoes in the grand scheme of things. I may just skip my last "free oil change" at the dealer. I can't stand going there and I can't stand having an 18 year old lube tech putting my truck up on a lift, and dump cheap oil into the thing.
I'm now 21,000 miles into this thing (2018 LT 5.3) and my lifetime average is 24.5. The winter has dragged it down some - in the warm weather I generally average 25-26 mpg during my weekly 600 mile commute (mix highway/back roads). My lifetime average before winter hit was 25.1 at that time. I'm now averaging 23.5 a week doing the same commute, but in temperatures in the 20's. Knock on wood, the truck has been great in so many ways. Very versatile machine. No problems yet.
You’ve got me beat.i thought I was an extreme maintenance guy, wow! That’s pretty cool. I’m at 20,000 miles and I’m considering doing the tranny fluid, decided against it, but may have motivated me to go ahead and do it. Haha
Hopefully that mechanic isn't the one selling you 3,000 mile Amsoil oil changes and the Lucas fuel treatment. That would be unethical. However if it's just something you do on your own? No problem.
This is what I’ve accumulated after 6,000 miles of driving (Pennzoil Platinum 0w20). I have a 2018 - purchased new in April - now with 20,000 mostly highway easy miles. At the start of the oil change interval it was warmer, as it got colder I started to collect more water/oil mixture. In all honsesty I do wonder if the water would have actually helped in cleaning the back of the intake valves, but I don’t think I’m catching everything anyway, so it probably isn’t really “hurting” that theory/thought anyway. And of course any picture I upload turns sideways, and I just wanted to note that the fluid and bottles do not have any actual gravity defying magical properties:)
20,000 miles on my 2018 and it clunks. Honestly it's done it since day one, really. Has it gotten worse? I don't know, maybe a little bit. I definitely hear it more when it's a slower situation and it's shifting gears...probably more when downshifting.
I feel the same way, the V4 is great for me in a lot of instances and gets me great gas mileage, but there are times I'm noticing where I wish I could shut it off. Like if I'm stuck behind someone driving slow...the thing bogs down and constantly switches in and out of V4, seemingly not knowing what to do. But those are rare occasions and the person really has to be driving slow, otherwise I love the V4. If I towed or plowed, I'd definitely want the V8 on all the time.
Oh I was concerned, maybe not...I need to go out and get a cat scan, concerned, but pretty concerned. Relatively new truck, purchased in April, only 17,000 miles or so on it. And it was catching oil, lots of oil. Now it was also close to the end of the oil change interval, and I was hoping that was why. After changing the oil, and since checking it, that appears to be the case. At least what I've found is that when the oil starts to get some miles on it, it tends to thin out or not stick as well/easily. There are names/explanations for both. Shearing and I can't remember the other, but at least in my case - with the catch can - it seems to be the case.
When I first got my can I went through the initial...”this is exciting”, faze and I was checking it virtually every day. I found it does very much catch oil, much more oil towards the end of the oil change interval. The oil must shear or lose its ability to stick to stuff. Because it catches way more oil when you’re at the 4-5k mike mark, compared to say the 100-200 mile mark. I caught straight oil, no condensation, when it was the warmer months...now that it’s cold I’m catching a mixture of oil and condensation. I don’t think there’s a lot of condensing going on after the vehicle is allowed to cool down, I think it’s happening on initial start up when the crankcase is sitting in cold temps and it gets sucked into the can/intake manifold.
I don't understand why someone hasn't gone through the throttle body with a boroscope and taken a look at their valves...maybe someone already has? Or maybe you just can't get in there with a camera? My truck is too new (2018 17,000 miles) or else I'd do it...plus I've been running a catch can for the last 5,000 miles or so (and I do cleanings every 5,000). So if my valves are "clean" is it because of the can and the cleanings, or is it just because there wouldn't be any buildup? The next time i have a high mileage Silverado in the shop I'll take a look if I can.
So what you're saying is, you realize there will be carbon buildup on your valves, but you're planning on waiting until you have to tear apart the top end because of a AFM failure...then you'll clean or replace the valves? Am I getting all this right? So I guess the question I have is, why not just use a catch can and prevent some of it? I realize you expect major engine failure and will just take care of the problem whenever that is, but a catch can won't hurt anything, won't cost much and might actually help carbon deposits and the problems THAT can cause (I know you're saying it isn't causing problems on these trucks both short and long term, but you also admit that in other brands it does cause problems)...misfires, hesitation, power and fuel economy loss. Just because these trucks are not gathering headlines because of carbon buildup - probably because of AFM failures - doesn't mean that it isn't/doesn't happen. These things are pretty new in the grand scheme of things, and as stated, they have had other bigger issues. It probably would take an average person ten minutes to remove a catch can and install their stock PCV valve house. I don't think voiding a warranty would be an issue with a half capable mechanically inclined person...if not? Yeah I could see it being a problem. So I get that. Another thing (regarding the carbon buildup). This is more of a "long term" type issue that will arise. Most people say they'll keep their trucks long term, but then they trade them in and buy the latest and greatest. And most people say they're going to be putting half a million miles on their trucks, but end up turning them into garage queens. So aside from the fleet and construction guy's (who probably could care less about misfires and fuel economy, as their trucks are packed with a 1,000 pound payloads, bombing up and down the highway everyday, putting 50k a year on the truck), not a ton of people quite frankly care, or probably could be bothered. It's not for everyone. I find it somewhat rare to see people use these trucks as cars, in the sense they're putting 30,000 commuting miles a year on these things and actually think about fuel economy, misfires, optimal engine operation. I do, but I don't personally know many who drive as much in a truck everyday. And I don't know many that plan to keep it to 300,000 miles plus. For people who do, myself included? A catch can is cheap insurance. Nothing major. For the others? Probably a waste of time.
It depends on who you ask...if you ask someone that has bought a $350 catch can or someone who makes those $350 dollar cans? They'll tell you you should and that the $30-$50 cans are junk. And some probably are. Just do some research. I bought a $30 can off Amazon. It was incredibly highly rated (something like 300 positive reviews). And they were right, the thug works great. Not a plug a play can...didn't come with quality fuel hose, not very big, no drain valve. But it was real easy for me to buy $8 worth of fuel hose and fabricate mounting hardware (and the reviews told me as much). So just make the decision for yourself, do a little research, etc...but I think if you're mechanically inclined you can do just fine without spending $300
I'm catching somewhere around an ounce every 1,000 miles in my catch can. I figure I'd rather it be in the can than the intake - I know I'm not catching it all but it's better than nothing. I've seen quite a few direct injected 5.3's that use oil, can't be good for the backside of those valves. I add maybe a half quart in between my 5,000 mile oil change (16,000 miles 2018).
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