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Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?

Hi, We are developing a new software program that focuses on removing DTCs from vehicles. Our support list is very broad and includes trucks as well. I would like to know if you would be interested in such a program? Or you may know people who need it. Let me know. Best regards.

2011 Chevy 1500 LT crew - 144k miles So, after countless hours of searching, I’ve decided to post here in desperate need of help. My truck is currently in the shop, and on its 3rd mechanic trying to diagnose/fix the issue. Originally I was getting an oil pressure sensor unit code months ago, and about a month of driving later, and I finally lost my oil pressure gauge (dropped to zero) but the truck was perfectly fine. No loss of oil, etc. So I brought it in to get it fixed and change the oil - they put an OEM part in and changed the screen. Reset everything and I picked it up, a few moments later my check engine light returned. Scanned it when I got home, same error code - active. Checked for oil leaks, etc - nothing. Returned a month later for them to fix it, they put in another OEM part and new screen…drive it 3 miles down the road, and it trips again. They’ve checked the valve cover gasket and checked the PCM, everything seems fine. The truck is not burning oil either. I’ll add that my oil pressure gauge on my dash works fine now since they swapped sensors too. Everyone is stumped on what to do, and I’m about to potentially go down the rabbit hole of ‘throwing parts at it’. Starting with the PCM and then the valve cover gasket, and many thousands of bucks potentially. Does anyone have the slightest idea what’s going on? The PCM is throwing no other codes either, he has graphed and checked it. Is it possible for the PCM to be corrupt without it giving errors, etc? The tech is a 30 year vet, and a family friend - so by no means is he stupid. But this has stumped two other techs with equal experience too. Now my truck is past inspection, and with my Check Engine light on, it’ll never pass. Plus I’m still half way on my loan, so just selling it isn’t an option. Help!!!!

I'm looking for a replacement ECM for my 1998 Corvette. The part is only good for the 97 and 98 model years. Changes were apparently made for model years 99 and newer. Delco part number if useful is: 19332289 or 16238212. This part has proven much more difficult to find than I anticipated. If you or anyone you know own one, please let me know. I'd love to get my car back on the road!

Having some issues with my '93 C1500 stalling and dying. It started last month when I was replacing parts to get my truck back on the road after sitting for a long time without much use. After I had managed to get the A/C blowing cold air again (freon, compressor pigtail and tensioner pulley) I noticed that the idle would slow and get choppy, even stalled and died once. I went back to work on it and ended up putting in a brand new Delco egr valve, IAC, fuel pressure regulator assembly, emissions tubing, intake adaptor, intake and egr solenoid. Even with all the parts the truck will still stall with or without the ac engaged and gets significantly worse with the egr solenoid plugged in. As in it stalls terribly at very light throttle since it looks like the valve completely closes when you hit the throttle just right. The engine is a jasper 350 crate with around 80k miles and Ive replaced every single sensor on it at some point or another. I should also mention that before this work was done I'd had the egr blocked off completely with a plate and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator in. I just wanted to get it back to stock once the stalling started so I could have a reliable truck again. At this point i'm worried the problem may be in the pcm or prom since it was running great most of the day with the solenoid unplugged then started stalling again after sitting for an hour turned off. I'm stumped

2000 Suburban 5.3L. I'm having problems with the injector circuit for cylinder 3 in my car. I removed the connector on the injector and verified that it's getting power (constant 12V when key in ON position and 14V when engine is running). When a test light was put on the ground terminal it illuminated but didn't pulse. When I looked at the voltage though, it was bouncing all over between 0 and 14V. I turned the car off and noticed the ground terminal had 1.7 kOhms resistance to ground when the engine is off. Thought that was funny as it shouldn't be connected to ground when the car is off and if there was a short, the resistance should be 0. I traced the wiring and didn't see anything wrong. I then found a diagram for the ECM connectors, located the terminal for the cylinder 3 injector (ironically terminal #3) and found the same 1.7 kOhm resistance to ground at this terminal. This was the terminal on the actual ECM not the wiring harness. 1. Is this sufficient evidence that the ECM is bad? 2. Can I just go to a junkyard and pull an ECM out of another 2000 Suburban with the 5.3L and put it into my car with no problems? 3. If not, does anybody have experience with flashmastersecm.com? Judging from ebay, they look reputable.