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Drives

Found 15 results

  1. Question fellas And ladies, I typically don't post on forums, but I'm at a poss currently. My truck is 2010 Silverado 4.8 and after driving it for 30 or so minutes the traction control/ stabitrax light comes on, the tachometer cuts off and the truck feels like it's jerking going forward, if I'm stopping or stopped the truck stalls and won't turn back on for Maybe an hour. I've replaced the fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, engine temperature sensor, replaced the plugs and wires maybe a year ago, and I don't drive it much because I live close to work. Yesterday I had been driving it a little farther because I thought it was fixed, but as I was getting on the highway, the truck popped/ jerked, and the stabitrax/traction control off displayed and a couple of seconds later, the tachometer went to zero. I was able to get her home, but the truck kept jerking all the way home. I think the problem is unrelated, but my oil pressure has been getting lower as I drive it. Any help would be great, thanks.
  2. This may be a rather strange question, but is it possible to reset the learned driving habits? My 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 4x4 crew cab drove great for the the first year (new to about 10,000 miles). The truck was very responsive and the AFM was not bad then--it only kicked in at about 45 mph or greater and it was not objectionable. After about a year, the AFM started engaging much more aggressively and at lower speeds--the truck would periodically jerk violently when it entered V4 mode. It began trying hard to avoid downshifting, so there is absolutely no power when you turn corners or start up a hill unless you really shove down on the gas pedal. I distinctly remember a coworker saying, "What's wrong with this thing?!?" soon after the clunking and other stuff started. The dealer said it was learning my driving habits and everything was normal. Now, I have 57k miles on the truck and I really do not enjoy driving it anymore. I have about a 25 mile commute with long stretches of 35 mph speed zones. If I don't drive in M5 or activate the Range device, the truck repeatedly goes "CLUNK, lug, SQUEAK!" as the AFM engages, the truck lugs along for a bit, and goes back to V8 mode (with passive exhaust valve squeak, of course). I have noticed the clunking is much worse when the outside temperature is below about 45 degrees. The dealership says I am stuck with this behavior because it has adapted to my low-speed stretches and there is nothing I can do about it. They say most of their similar complaints come from people who drive at lower speeds. The truck has only been maintained at the dealership--I got tired of them saying I was not maintaining my last truck properly (Mobil-1 changes at 4-5k miles or 45% oil monitor remaining, coolant and transmission flushes at 30-35k, and all fluids replaced at 50k miles, mind you). I have had them do far more maintenance than recommended and I don't hesitate to throw this fact back in their face when they start to say I have done something wrong to cause the bad behavior (they said going too long between oil changes probably caused it until I told them to check their records). They tried pulling the battery and it didn't help anything. I would love to have my truck drive the way it did when it was new. I know I could get a tune, but I have an 84 month, 84K mile warranty and I don't want to risk having too many increments of the flash counter. My dealer says to get a tune when the warranty expires, but I doubt I will keep the truck that long--I honestly don't have much faith that the drive train will hold together. The constant "clunk-lug-squeak!" reminds me of the clown cars you see at a circus. Does anyone know of a way to reset the learned behavior or do I have to live with it until I get rid of the truck? I can get access to SPS if there is a way to resolve this via the dealership tools. Any help would certainly be appreciated!
  3. Good evening everyone! This is my first posting on the forum! I’ve got a 2011 GMC 2500HD 6.0 that has visited 2 tuners in the central Texas area. I have a TSP VVT2 cam, 3600 converter, forged internals, And exhaust, with more to come soon. I have been told by these shops that my truck could not be dialed in like it needs to be due to missing airflow tables on HPtuners. Supposedly the 2011 HD’s have a odd computer that has to be torque based tuned. I am having idle problems... pulling up to stop lights and turns the truck will die 8/10 times, but starts right back up. Anyone know a way around this hiccup? These shops have gotten it to the best they could, which still is not enough obviously.
  4. I have a 2003 Suburban Z71 that I just converted to electric fans. I used a factory wiring harness that I found on ebay, and the fans turn on when the temp hits 190. The truck was tuned by a popular tuner, but the fans will not kick on with the A/C compressor. I have wired in both wires to the pcm connectors. I cannot for the life of me get it to turn on with the A/C compressor. Could it be a bad relay? Could my 2003, not be able to control the fans when the A/C kicks on. I have fried my compressor, and would like to get this figured out before spending money on another. Does the tuner need to turn on the capability for the fans to kick it on? @JennabearI didnt use your tunes for this as I had another option at the time, but I need some answers. If you guys can turn it on, then you will have my money today. Anybody else have any ideas?
  5. I need some help I’m not a mechanic totally but I have been going to school for it and my 03 Silverado 5.3 is misfiring and I don’t know what the problem could be I replaced the spark plugs coils and all the cylinders are getting spark and I had a compression test and the the cylinders have near perfect compression so I don’t think it’d be that. I even replaced the ecu/pcm in it and nothing changed it’s a hard idle and had no power can’t even make it a block really it also dies when I hit the brakes after going anywhere over 5 mph.
  6. Hey guys, First time poster hopefully not breaking any rules. I have a few questions relating to vats and the bcm. Im swapping a lq9 from a 2002 escalade into a 2001 silverado that has a l31 in it My questions are: 1)Can i just swap the pcm from escalade into the silverado without activating the vats?(both has the 0411 pcm) 2)Or do i have to swap both the pcm and bcm so that the vin matches on both modules? is this even an option? 3)what are the things that the pcm checks for when deciding if it is going to pass vats or not. Im asking all of this because hptuners is out of the question rightnow, nobody has it where i live. Thanks in advance
  7. What would happen if I disconnected the ground cable sensor? I'm moving my battery to the other tray and would hate to add 4' of cable just to hit this sensor. Maybe I could add the long cable just so the sensor has something to report, but also run a second shorter ground to the block from the new battery location. Thoughts?
  8. I have a 2008 crew cab WT and a donor 2008 crew cab SLE I'd like all the SLE features and want to know what modules I'll need to swap without getting my BCM reprogrammed. My dealer won't do it for me. So Im ready to change all necessary modules in my truck with the donor truck including the ignition. Can you tell me if this is possible and what I'll need to do and what modules to replace? I understand they go by VIN or something. But if I get all the stuff from the donor and move it over to mine it should work without locking me out of the truck right?
  9. Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
  10. I did a search on here for replacing the engine computer and was surprised for not finding much ! We have an 05 Silverado with a 5.3 in it. The other evening, my wife went to see a friend and when it began to storm, she decided to leave. She went out and the truck was dead, no click, no crank. I went to get her and tried to jump start it (while it was still storming) and arcs came off of the negative terminal when the cable touched it. I stopped and decided to disconnect the battery till morning. Next day I go over there and reconnect the battery and the engine fans start running with no key in the ignition (probable reason why the battery arced the night before)! Battery voltage was down to under 11 volts so I took it to get checked since it was 5 years old. Got a new one, connected it, the truck fired up, and all seemed well. Took the truck home, parked it and 2 hours later I go to leave in it and the engine fans are running again ! When I drove away, I got about a mile from the house and the check engine light started flashing. Codes that came up were P0300 and P0480, random misfire and engine cooling fan code error. So..... I checked what I could, but then on Monday took it to an automotive electrical guy. He ran his diagnostics and while it was there, the fans came on by themselves again with no key on. He check his schematics, ran his checks and suspects the computer has some kind of fault. He said to get a salvage computer and he would re-flash it for my VIN. I checked around and found one local, but also looked online and came across "All Computer Resources" in Miami FL that sells reprogramed ECM / ECU / PCM automotive computers. I wasn't sure what to do, so called another electrical repair guy for another opinion. He said it could well be the computer, but would run his own checks before just replacing it. He was adamant about not using a salvage or reconditioned computer. Said he has been there, done that, and will now ONLY install new OEM replacement GM computers and flash them. Anybody out there have good or bad luck with a reconditioned computer ? Any thoughts or suggestions ?
  11. Hey guys, So over the weekend I put a new (to me) transmission in my truck (2003 silverado 1500) upon finishing the job I went to start it up to start pumping the new fluid through, but the truck will not turn over. All lights, radio, ect.. come on, but the truck will not turn over. Also, even after I have pulled the key out, the front marker lights, rear running lights, and dash lights all will not shut off. There is a high pitched ringing coming from the engine compartment, which, along with the lights shuts off when I pull the fuse for "ECM B". Initially I thought this was the Park-Neutral safety switch, which was cracked while we were installing it. The only idea I have left is that there is a small wire that comes out of the harness and attaches to the back of the engine right behind the passenger side cylinder head that was broken while installing the dipstick, I cannot find any information about what this wire is for or where it is supposed to be attached. ANY help would be much appreciated!!!
  12. Original stock ECM (PCM) from my 2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD with 6.0L gas engine. I purchased a Black Bear Performance tune and opted to keep my stock ECM. I've since sold the truck and just found this in my basement. Indoor heated storage since 3/2010. Looks like Black Bear currently charges $100 for a core, so how about $75 shipped to lower 48 or make offer.
  13. Sorry if something similar has already been posted but I haven't found a solution that works. My 2004 Silverado 1500 LS, 5.3L Vortec is giving me all kinds of fits. Would be happy to elaborate the long story but going for the short to start with. I have been having problems with hitting the key and nothing but a dash reset; this has been intermittent since the first of the year and usually would clear itself up. When this happens I get all kinds of weird lights and messages but no codes. It would usually clear itself up within a couple of days then I could drive for a few weeks with no problems. I did notice that sometimes when it happened the blower was left on when trying to start it but didn't seem to be tied to weather. The two worst instances, one a snow storm and the other 80+ degrees. Two weeks ago I forgot to turn the air off and when I started the truck to go home the check engine light was on, the ABS light was on and the brake light was on; I also noticed that the air was still on but the blower wasn't working. The truck would barely move itself. I turned everything off and started it again but had the same symptoms. It barely limped home and started the no attempt to start problem again. I read the codes and had 740, 753, 758, 785 and 2761. Did some research and found that if you get all these codes the most common fix was the ignition switch and this was confirmed by a mechanic after he looked it up in his resources. Logically everything made since that the problem was most likely the ignition switch, it wasn't unless O'Reilly's sold me a bad switch. Here are some things I have tried: The battery is a year old and has been checked but I think there still may be a problem with it. I had to do a relearn on the security because I replaced the PCM so I hooked a charger up as suggested. After the relearn the key would bump the motor but that was it. I found if I held the key it would bump, wait a few seconds then bump again and repeat the cycle. I left the charger on and over time the cycle would shorten. Finally I went out and the engine turned over like normal, started and the charger indicated the battery had a full charge. I checked all the fuses and relays I replaced the starter a couple of months ago thinking it might of had a dead spot, it failed with the new starter the same day I replaced it. I had the bright idea of running a wire from the S post of the starter to the top of the motor to attach a remote switch. When the no attempt to start problem occurred I used a remote switch and it would start and immediately shut off (theft deterrent I suppose) but if I used the remote switch and key switch at the same time it would start but the truck would not move so I expect the transmission was not being energized. I replaced the ignition switch, I assume I have it in correctly because the switch seems to work. I did try moving the gear a notch or two both directions and got less than desirable results. I replaced the PCM last night and did the security relearn; I get the same results with the new PCM as I do the old. I have swapped them out a couple of times today with no difference and now they both show the same transmission codes. Right now the truck will start with just the key but will not move. The check engine light is on with the codes being the transmission codes listed above. The ABS light is on and the Brake light is on (the parking brake is not set) and the heat/air blower does not work. Is there another ?CM module that could be causing these problems? Aren't you glad I didn't go into the long story? Thanks Chris
  14. Good morning, everyone! I'm new to the board but I hope to frequent it pretty often instead of being one of those one and done posters. So, here's my situation: My 2000 Silverado 1500 z71 transmission is getting pretty tired (215,xxx miles) and I've picked up a wrecked donor 2004 Silverado 1500 with a rebuilt transmission that I know to be functioning well. Both have the 5.3L with the 4l60e trans. I'm looking to swap the engine and transmission from the 2004 into the 2000 - my thought is everything will bolt up properly due to not much changing between 99 and 06. My concern is can I use the pcm from my 2000 on this newer engine that we're putting in or will it require a new wiring harness and pcm? Are there any other things I should be concerned about? Thanks for your time! Reyn
  15. I have an 04 gmc sierra 1500 Z71. Out of nowhere the truck would start but killed itself immediately. The dash says unknown driver but the security light does not come on. The windows, locks, radio, and key fob do not work either. I have checked all the fuses and the battery ground and the grounds underneath the driver door, all good. I have also replaced the ignition switch and ignition lock cylinder. I have also tried to relearn the keys. I have disconnected the battery too. It is like the passlock is activated but the security light does not stay on. Checked passlock sensor and it is putting out 15 ohms and its harness is at just under 5 volts. Any ideas?
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