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Showing results for tags '1997'.
Found 14 results
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I'm looking for a replacement ECM for my 1998 Corvette. The part is only good for the 97 and 98 model years. Changes were apparently made for model years 99 and newer. Delco part number if useful is: 19332289 or 16238212. This part has proven much more difficult to find than I anticipated. If you or anyone you know own one, please let me know. I'd love to get my car back on the road!
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how does the fuel pressure regulator come off the fuel rail on a 1997 chevy vortec 7.4 MFI engine? We have the fuel rail out and the vacuum activated fuel pressure regulator appears to be attached directly to the fuel rail. There is not the normal clip holding it on that you would see on non-MFI engines (TBI). Its either pressed on, or somehow attached to the bracket which is attached to the rail.
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Hey guys and gals, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1997 chevy 1500 with 4.3 vortec 5 speed. 2WD... I have pulled the bad 5 speed out. I'm going to replace it with an automatic....I have access to a th350, a 700r4, and a 96 model 4L60e. THIS IS A SCRAP-HAULING TRUCK THAT ONLY IS USED LOCALLY...THATS IMPORTANT, because a lot of people are going to have opinions on the Why?s of this swap. All im looking for is a simple way to use one of these trannys in the truck. Let me preface this by saying that I AM NOT going the route of replacing pcms, tcms, or anything of the like, if I dont have to....so my first question is.... 1. Is there a way, using stock 5 speed wiring harness, to run wires to the 4L60e and make it work. Which means shifts correct AND, allows the engine to run with potentially improper VSS inputs and all that. I can wire, and I can read diagrams. I dont care at all if the computer causes engine lights, even if the dash is lit up like a xmas tree...its a rusted scrap hauler. I ALSO DONT CARE ABOUT DRIVESHAFT LENGTHS, CROSSMEMBERS, or all the other things that could be a problem..I've got a shop, I'll fix those. 2. If I use the 700r4, I know that it will bolt up and there wont be a problem with flex plate, torque converters, because my cousin has one in his 97, same truck exactly. He told me he had a hell of a time getting a tv cable bracket to work with his stock v6 vortec manifold though..no proper mounting holes for the bracket. But I know it can be done. Yes, all the harness and plugs are different on the 700r4, so same question as above...can it be wired using the stock 5 speed harness, and if not, I know how to simply put in a 4th gear swith to lock the convertor, that's no problem. Again though...is the engine going to run properly without any trans vss(or other) signals not received. As long as it runs properly I dont care about codes and engine lights(scrap hauler again). And ...3. I'm very tempted to put this old th350 in it....I'm pretty sure it will bolt up, fairly certain all I need is a vacuum run from manifold pressure...and I'll be good to go. Again, I have 50 driveshaft and about as many crossmembers so those things dont come into the equation. Same concern as before, above...WITH ABSOLUTELY NO 5 SPEED HARNESS TRANSMISSION WIRES HOOKED UP, WILL THE ENGINE STILL RUN??. I dont mind jumper wires or doing what it takes to keep the transmission plugs sending a happy signal to the computer...I just want everyone's opinion on the SIMPLEST way to get this truck to move, and allow the engine to start and run like normal. Having said all that, and since I used all the caps, and reiterated several times that it's just a scrap hauler rust bucket..I'll tell you why I've been soooooo diligent to get all the facts straight..its because I'm 52, I have read about a thousand forum sites and entries over the years and gotten a lot of great info from them, and I think they are great! But what I dont think is great, or very helpful to the person posting a question, is that a lot of guys want to ask questions like, "why would you want to do that? If it were me I'd go get me a new transmission or a rebuilt one, and put it right in with a so and so clutch, and a thousand dollar tcm...." you get the picture, right? I hope I'm not coming off as a smart-#$@ or anything, I just dont think those opinions ever help the person asking the question. You may have a lot more resources (monetary and availibilty) than most of us schlubs out there...and sometimes we just want to know the technical possibility of if the question we are asking is feasible...not whether you agree with it...the reason I say this is because I've seen most forum threads go off topic from 2 or 3 regulars joisting about who knows the most, and then the poor guy posting the question never gets a good answer. Face it, you've seen that happen too, right? So, have written a book report, whew!...I now leave it to you guys to help me if you can. I'm a really nice guy...I just wanted to be accurate about my problem, and hopefully derail the one-,upmanship before it begins. Thanks my new friends!! -
Hey guys and gals, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1997 chevy 1500 with 4.3 vortec 5 speed. 2WD... I have pulled the bad 5 speed out. I'm going to replace it with an automatic....I have access to a th350, a 700r4, and a 96 model 4L60e. THIS IS A SCRAP-HAULING TRUCK THAT ONLY IS USED LOCALLY...THATS IMPORTANT, because a lot of people are going to have opinions on the Why?s of this swap. All im looking for is a simple way to use one of these trannys in the truck. Let me preface this by saying that I AM NOT going the route of replacing pcms, tcms, or anything of the like, if I dont have to....so my first question is.... 1. Is there a way, using stock 5 speed wiring harness, to run wires to the 4L60e and make it work. Which means shifts correct AND, allows the engine to run with potentially improper VSS inputs and all that. I can wire, and I can read diagrams. I dont care at all if the computer causes engine lights, even if the dash is lit up like a xmas tree...its a rusted scrap hauler. I ALSO DONT CARE ABOUT DRIVESHAFT LENGTHS, CROSSMEMBERS, or all the other things that could be a problem..I've got a shop, I'll fix those. 2. If I use the 700r4, I know that it will bolt up and there wont be a problem with flex plate, torque converters, because my cousin has one in his 97, same truck exactly. He told me he had a hell of a time getting a tv cable bracket to work with his stock v6 vortec manifold though..no proper mounting holes for the bracket. But I know it can be done. Yes, all the harness and plugs are different on the 700r4, so same question as above...can it be wired using the stock 5 speed harness, and if not, I know how to simply put in a 4th gear swith to lock the convertor, that's no problem. Again though...is the engine going to run properly without any trans vss(or other) signals not received. As long as it runs properly I dont care about codes and engine lights(scrap hauler again). And ...3. I'm very tempted to put this old th350 in it....I'm pretty sure it will bolt up, fairly certain all I need is a vacuum run from manifold pressure...and I'll be good to go. Again, I have 50 driveshaft and about as many crossmembers so those things dont come into the equation. Same concern as before, above...WITH ABSOLUTELY NO 5 SPEED HARNESS TRANSMISSION WIRES HOOKED UP, WILL THE ENGINE STILL RUN??. I dont mind jumper wires or doing what it takes to keep the transmission plugs sending a happy signal to the computer...I just want everyone's opinion on the SIMPLEST way to get this truck to move, and allow the engine to start and run like normal. Having said all that, and since I used all the caps, and reiterated several times that it's just a scrap hauler rust bucket..I'll tell you why I've been soooooo diligent to get all the facts straight..its because I'm 52, I have read about a thousand forum sites and entries over the years and gotten a lot of great info from them, and I think they are great! But what I dont think is great, or very helpful to the person posting a question, is that a lot of guys want to ask questions like, "why would you want to do that? If it were me I'd go get me a new transmission or a rebuilt one, and put it right in with a so and so clutch, and a thousand dollar tcm...." you get the picture, right? I hope I'm not coming off as a smart-#$@ or anything, I just dont think those opinions ever help the person asking the question. You may have a lot more resources (monetary and availibilty) than most of us schlubs out there...and sometimes we just want to know the technical possibility of if the question we are asking is feasible...not whether you agree with it...the reason I say this is because I've seen most forum threads go off topic from 2 or 3 regulars joisting about who knows the most, and then the poor guy posting the question never gets a good answer. Face it, you've seen that happen too, right? So, have written a book report, whew!...I now leave it to you guys to help me if you can. I'm a really nice guy...I just wanted to be accurate about my problem, and hopefully derail the one-,upmanship before it begins. Thanks my new friends!!
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So I have 1997 suburban 1500 2wd 5.7l went to install a train nor the other day didn't get around to it I might add. Had battery disconnected for a bit. Next day it started out driving fine. Felt a wierd flutter going down the highway. Stopped at the store and could barely reverse took basically sitting on the pedal keeping rpm a little over 1200. Went in to drive just fine. By the next stoplight take off felt sluggish. Now it will barely get to moving at all. Electrical issue or what???? RpMs solid at idle around 650, doesn't have the mysterious rough idle or anything like that chased that's thru a full engine rebuild just about with my last suburban. Haven't had this one too long but seemed well taken care of I'm the second owner a school had it before me. So I figure all the maintenance was kept up. Got about 145,000 miles on it trans fluids clean and around proper levels. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping its not a transmission failure don't see that just happening out of the blue without prior signs or behavior -
I have a 1997 chevy suburban 4wd and while in 4wd it was making a loud clanging noise when accelerating in 4wd hi or 4wd lo. Anyways everything underneath was tight and no play. I couldn't figure it out. It has the dash 2wd 4wd hi and 4wd lo electric switch it wasn't flashing while in 4wd hi or low and you could hear an engagement sound when 4wd selected. I thought it maybe it was the front crown and pinion gear missing a tooth. I took it to the mechanic and it was the 4wd actuator! I guess it was gimped up and engaging and disengaging while in 4wd and making a horrible clanging noise. Anyways I replaced the actuator myself a few years ago (which was possibly the easiest repair ever) but the 4wd light was flashing and it wasn't engaging at that time. Anyways it cost me a fair bit more to have a mechanic diagnose and then replace the actuator but if it happens again I'll know what it is. Also I may be able to help someone else searching online for an answer. It's a fairly cheap fix to do yourself and super simple to do. About $60 from 1aauto! Hope this helps someone out. -
So I have a couple issues with my truck. 1997 k1500 silverado with roughly 280k on it. I bought it a couple years ago and the guy put a newish engine in it with 60k on it but it's always had hesitation to start. It would crank a few times before starting, sometimes I have to key off, wait a sec and try again to get it to go. I had the battery (800cca) tested, wires tested, alternator tested and replaced the starter, nothing. Had our mechanic at work look, said the timing was off by -2, and it starts a little better but it still does the thing. No OBD codes except for my exhaust leak. Anyone have any ideas? Second issue, my gauges are reading a bit off. My oil pressure reads high but will go down low if I let off the gas to coast, gas gauge is accurate to about 1/4 of a tank higher than it is, the whole cluster is dim but grows brighter repeatedly, voltage reads 15V or higher, and temp reads way overheating and scares the crap out of me even though I put a scanner on it and read the raw data from the new temp sensor I put in and it shows normal. I can find guides to repair 03 or newer clusters, but nothing about repairing older ones. My guess is all the steppers are shot at nearly 300k miles. I don't know why the dash is so dim though, I thought it might be voltage related. Anyone know about repairing those older clusters? Can I use the same steppers as the 03+ guides use? -
I'll start this off i have a 1991 chevy silverado k1500 what is the biggest size tire i can fit on it with a 3 in body lift im about to put on it with 15 inch rim?
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I use a 1997 Savana 3500 cut a way tool van with a 6.5L Turbo diesel, and was wanting it to shift up sooner and not run the engine revs over 2400 rpm unless in over drive. Is there a simple cheat or is this something that I would have to get an after market TCM? I know it only has 190 HP but it does have good torque at the 1800-2200 range and would like to operate it in that range and be at WOT or close to it. Has anyone ever done this before and was it worth it? Thanks in advance. -
Ok. So I have been battling myself on what I want to do for exhaust. I had just recently rebuilt the engine as well as boring it thirty thousandths over and threw some shorty headers on it. I took a gander underneath my truck and it looks like it would be easy to turn into a dual exhaust. What it is it comes down from the header and its dual all the way until the muffler in the back. Goes into Muffler dual inlet then single outlet. I thought just cutting the muffler off and putting two glass packs underneath. Considering it's winter where I am I was going to wait and buy a bent exhaust that arches over the driver side and make it connect to the glass pack on the driver side. Then reuse or even buy a new exhaust pipe that goes over the passenger side and connect it to the exhaust that is on the passenger side. I guess what I am trying to ask is how do you guys think I should go about this. I want pretty cheap but also not cheap to where it will only last me one or two years. I would also like feedback on what you guys think of my idea and if you did the same thing how it sounds. Also throw other suggestions out there if there is a better way to do it. Thank you. Edit: It is a 1997 k1500 extended cab and short bed. 5.7l (Tech. 5.8l now bored over.) with shorty headers on.
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I installed the upgrade fuel injection spider in my truck. I did full tune up cap rotor plugs wires etc. And plenum vacuum sensor. I pulled and cleand the egr valve.I ordered a knock sensor will be in tomorrow. I still have the same misfire from 1500rpm til like 2200rpm.I guess I'm going to change all the o2 sensors. Also the cats and cam gear. Anthing else ? Thanks for your help..if anyone can. -
This topic has been resolved.
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Hello, I'm having trouble with my low beam headlights. They are intermittent and only happen when I drive the truck. I've had a fuse replaced, headlight relay, headlight switch, and the multifunctional switch replaced and the problem still persists. Can some one help me? Please and thank you. I have a 1997 Chevrolet Silverado z71.
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I'm new to this forum and I just acquired a 1997 GMC Suburban K2500 7.4L for towing and the A/C isn't working. When I push the A/C button I get no light on the A/C button and nothing from the compressor/clutch. Same in defrost mode with full cold temp setting, nothing from the compressor/clutch. The other control head knobs & buttons seem to work properly. All A/C fuses are ok. Any pointers from folks knowledgeable with these A/C systems very much appreciated. Marty
