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Showing results for tags 'pressure'.
Found 17 results
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2011 Chevy 1500 LT crew - 144k miles So, after countless hours of searching, I’ve decided to post here in desperate need of help. My truck is currently in the shop, and on its 3rd mechanic trying to diagnose/fix the issue. Originally I was getting an oil pressure sensor unit code months ago, and about a month of driving later, and I finally lost my oil pressure gauge (dropped to zero) but the truck was perfectly fine. No loss of oil, etc. So I brought it in to get it fixed and change the oil - they put an OEM part in and changed the screen. Reset everything and I picked it up, a few moments later my check engine light returned. Scanned it when I got home, same error code - active. Checked for oil leaks, etc - nothing. Returned a month later for them to fix it, they put in another OEM part and new screen…drive it 3 miles down the road, and it trips again. They’ve checked the valve cover gasket and checked the PCM, everything seems fine. The truck is not burning oil either. I’ll add that my oil pressure gauge on my dash works fine now since they swapped sensors too. Everyone is stumped on what to do, and I’m about to potentially go down the rabbit hole of ‘throwing parts at it’. Starting with the PCM and then the valve cover gasket, and many thousands of bucks potentially. Does anyone have the slightest idea what’s going on? The PCM is throwing no other codes either, he has graphed and checked it. Is it possible for the PCM to be corrupt without it giving errors, etc? The tech is a 30 year vet, and a family friend - so by no means is he stupid. But this has stumped two other techs with equal experience too. Now my truck is past inspection, and with my Check Engine light on, it’ll never pass. Plus I’m still half way on my loan, so just selling it isn’t an option. Help!!!! -
Just bought this vehicle yesterday and now on the way home going interstate speed’s it’s making a noise like a window was rolled down or something and making my ears hurt along with my wife’s is this normal or is this a common problem and if so what’s the fix? -
Hello, Wondering if it normal for my oil pressure to shoot up with the RPM? I have a 4.3L v6 in my Express. Proper oil was used? What could cause that? Will this become a problem for leaks later? That's what I'm afraid of. Thanks,
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I was at the dealer the other day getting a tire replaced and I noticed I needed a coolant flush as its been 5 years and no previous one. When I got home I checked the reservoir and it was grossly overfilled. I doubt there's room for 7oz of expansion in it. I know sometimes this happens because it needs to burp out some air so I've driven it a couple of times but it hasn't gone down yet. I've got one of these coming tomorrow to suck the excess out if it hasn't gone down tomorrow but wondering if anyone knows about burping these or how to remove air. There doesn't appear to be a radiator cap which is likely why the reserve tank is pressurized. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP8R9MS Since these are pressurized reservoirs, it seems that a grossly overfilled can cause damage as there's nowhere for the pressure to go except the weakest link which is likely a hose or fitting. My question is do these heater cores have a valve or is coolant running to them constantly? It is dead summer and I want to avoid heat on full to see if it clears out if I can. Also judging by design, it seems like it would naturally burp itself fairly quickly. Before the flush my needle almost always stayed constant at 210 when warmed up, now it seems to fluctuate between the 197.5 mark and 210 which leads me to think either there's still air in there or the overfill is causing excessive pressure that is altering the temp.
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I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4. A/c has been out for over 2 years had a bad compressor never got around to fixing it. Today I replaced the compressor, condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, and flushed all lines. Took it up to my buddy at the dealership and we charged it up. Put it under vacuum for a bit and no leaks. Drove home about 12 miles no problems blew ice cold. Left to go to the store about 2 hours later started it up the ac button was on but clutch wasn’t engaged and ac blowing warm. Turned the button off then back on clutch engaged and blew ice cold. About 10-15 seconds clutch disengages blows hot cycle the button again blows cold again. Every 10 seconds or so it blows hot and I have to cycle the ac button on the dash again get cold air. I know the compressor clutch should cycle on and off that’s normal but I don’t think it should be that frequent and you shouldn’t feel that significant of a temperature change right? And when it cycles off it doesn’t come back on unless you cycle the button. I’m thinking a issue with the low pressure switch on the accumulator but any advice?
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my 6.0 with 230xxx has low oil pressure but no knocks maybe a little tick though. When i bought the truck it had maybe 5-9psi cold dropping to 0 warm. Thought it may have been a pickup tube oring or oil pump so i went ahead and replaced the pickup tube, o ring, and pump. it now gets 20 cold 7 warm at idle and 0 warm at idle and 20 warm running 1700 rpm. Which is a lot better but still a problem. I am aware the bearings may be shot and need a total rebuild, that is not out of the options. It is not electrical or sensor based issue same psi with a mechanical gauge. However I need to replace my harmonic balancer and take off the timing cover again so i was looking at it and could it be as simple as a o camshaft retainer plate? it has a build in thin o ring which if fails will drain pressure as it connects the oil gallys. Am I correct in thinking that this could solve my issues? Any input is helpful, thanks.
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So I've been looking for solid information on how much pressure to put in tires, when moving away from stock tire size or type ("P" vs LT, different load range, etc). I never found anything to-the-point, except I remember someone talking about using GVWR and max tire load to calculate pressure. And I can't even find that post anymore. Anyhow, I decided to make this from scratch: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17gh6VmylZWld50XcLvPbQVRRQoRFUZNiqndHQ7jzTb8/edit?usp=sharing It doesn't mean that it's exactly the tire pressure you should use, but I guess it's a good start. I hope it might be useful. Cheers!
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So I've been looking for solid information on how much pressure to put in tires, when moving away from stock tire size or type ("P" vs LT, different load range, etc). I never found anything to-the-point, except I remember someone talking about using GVWR and max tire load to calculate pressure. And I can't even find that post anymore. Anyhow, I decided to make this from scratch: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17gh6VmylZWld50XcLvPbQVRRQoRFUZNiqndHQ7jzTb8/edit?usp=sharing It doesn't mean that it's exactly the tire pressure you should use, but I guess it's a good start. I hope it might be useful. Cheers!
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Hi guys, new here! I have done a lot of research trying find a TPMS reset tool that will actually work with the thicker mud tires. I bought one from Amazon, the JDiag model, which works fine on a friends 15' Silverado, but I can't get it to work on my 14' Sierra. The only thing I think is keeping it from working is the fact I have the BFG AT KO2's which are a much beefier tire. Has anyone had any luck resetting their sensors with this type of tire, or any other heavy duty tires like on the 2500/3500's? If you did, which reset tool did you use. I see a lot of people saying they can't reset their sensors, but now I wonder if the thicker tires is what's keeping us from doing so?
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I've recently put 305/55r20 bfg ko2 tires on my 2014 silverado double cab 1500 with a 2" front level . I messaged BFG twice and got two VERY different answers when asking the exact same question and telling them my oem tire size/recommended pressure. One rep told me 50 psi and another told me 35 psi. The fact that I got two drastically different responses when giving the exact same question:supporting information, doesn't exactly make me want to trust their answers. I would think most 305/55/20 LT E load tires would have similar (probably not identical, but close enough to get a good ballpark number) load/per psi. I'm wanting to know what others have their 305/55r20 LT E load tires at to experience even/longer term wear. I've currently got mine at about 42 cold, and they seem to go to about 46 warm. It looks like the outside may be wearing a bit prematurely. But the BFG KO2 design may just be weird in that the outside of the tire's "base" of the tread seems to raise up. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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Hey guys, It been few years now maintaining it... I have 2005 sierra 1500 z71 5.3L extended cab... I gotten it at 80,000 and now it at 182k, i have since replaced the alternator, water pump, coolant hose, flush the tranmission fluids, and now i noticed now it be getting hot while im idling and the oil pressure gauge will be low but when i am driving the oil pressure gauge goes back to middle and the coolant temp will go back to the middle instead being hot... it happen when im going through a stop like a traffic jam... it wouldnt last 5min without getting low oil pressure(although no alarm light) and high engine coolant temp (coolant warning light came on) reaching... i been racking my brain trying to figure it out what could it be... it same thing all over again, driving normal then come to a stop, a long stop then my oil pressure will dip low and then engine coolant will dip pass the 210 mark and get hot til if i am idle long enough it will flash coolant light on... i open the hood check the engine, hoses, coolant level is good, fan blowing, but still getting hot with no leaks or steams... i really love my truck i really need to resolve this asap... pls help??? G30 -
Hi I have a 01 gmc with a 6.0 in it, recently I've been having hard starts. The truck starts fine in the morning when it is cold. How ever when I start the truck up after it has been running for some time it won't fire it will stumble on it's face and Barley run. To about 500 rpm them dips up and down to about 100 rpm them can eventually die off and will have to re start. I have replaced the fuel filter last week and there are no leaks in the fuel system. The fuel pressure off the rail is at 52 when the ignition is turned on. When at idle and starting it dips down to about 45psi and will surge around a little bit. Holds pressure when shut off will drop down 10psi but holds it. Thanks for any options I can do it fix it. Jeff prenger
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I started the truck and the oil pressure gauge is jumping between the bottom and middle. The oil pump was replaced because of a similar issue and a oil warning message on the display about 4-5 months ago. This is a 2008 silverado 4x4 5.3 flexfuel. Thanks for reading:)
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I have gotten a couple of responses to my inquiries to automobile publications/news rags/etc. One specifically is asking to drive a vehicle that has the buffeting/pressure issues present. He will be traveling to Vegas, LA and Detroit so if anyone here lives near those cities, please PM me. He is willing to utilize his contacts at GM to help us get some additional attention to this growing issue. Please let me know. Join our Facebook group here - https://www.facebook.com/groups/GMissues/ -
Oil pressure guage stopped working/reading 0. Needle does not move from 0 when key is turned on. Verified that engine does have good oil pressure. I did have an oil leak problem right around the same time the gauge stopped working. Turned out to be oil cooler lines. How should I go about troubleshooting this?
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So I just got a 14' Sierra SLT All terrain. When I got it, I took off the all terrain wheels and put on my own Fuel Pump 18's on there with some 33" tires. After a day, the new tire censors went out and couldn't read the pressure. I took it in and they told me that it's because the censors in my Fuel's are in the middle of the wheel, as opposed to the side or edge of it, and GM can't read the pressure on wheels like this. They told me I need to get new wheels/tires with the censors on the side to fix the problem and turn my light off. Any suggestions? Know of any wheels similar to the Fuel Pump 18's that have this feature? Thanks -
A few weeks ago, the TPMS light on my truck came on and the DIC read: REAR TIRES PSI LEFT 33 RIGHT 0 I immediately pulled over to check, but all the tires were perfectly inflated. I clicked the DIC button to elimiate the message, but the TPMS light stayed on. The following day when I turned on the truck, the TPMS light came on immediately, and this time the DIC read that both rear tires were under-inflated (I checked again and they were fine). A few days later it started giving false readings about the front left tire too. It has remained the same ever since, the DIC will randomly display false PSI readings while driving. If I reset it (while driving), the DIC will go back to the mileage display for a while, then a few minutes later it will go back to the false display of 3 out of the 4 tires. It has never mentioned anything about the front right tire. The TPMS idiot light has been permanently on since the issues began. It is extremely distracting and annoying, I've searched the web and haven't found anyone having the same issues. Last thing I'll mention is that when it was about 2 years old, the dealer fixed the "Service TPMS System" failure under warranty and had been fine until two weeks ago. Original owner, bone stock, 79K miles.
