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Found 49 results

  1. I was hoping y’all could help me on my decision. I have a 2019 custom trail boss 5.3 with AFM 6 speed. I called the local dealership here and asked how my warranty would be effected if I disable the AFM. They told me “as long as that tune didn’t cause the damage of whatever i bring the truck in for all is well.” So they recommended me to a local tuner here in town which was surprising. I called him and he said to disable my AFM it would cost around 500. I do know about the range device but I don’t want to to deal with the battery issues it can cause if you mistakenly leave it plugged in. My other option is the hand held tuners such as a diablo. I have zero experience with them but I am going to put in a cold air intake and flow master 44 exhaust in the future. Would my best bet be the Diablo tuner to disable the AFM and use it to adjust my truck to my other mods or go with the professional tuner?
  2. 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT 5.3 Vortec. 2WD. I've got a head scratcher here. So filling up the other day, I went to start the truck, and acted like it didn't have any fuel to start. Either that or fouled plugs. Took a few tries and started hard, idled rough for about a minute and then was running good. It's been cooler outside as its winter, roughly in the 20s and 30s. But the truck was already at operating temperature. It's happened twice now after I've filled up and no other time does it do it. Few things: Around 3 weeks ago I forgot to replace the gas cap, lost it on the road. Didn't replace it until the first time it started hard. I've recently changed the oil. Along with that I used a lucas oil additive made for variable valve timing. I also used a fuel treatment for carbon deposits. After looking with my telescope camera, it did its job. Now I did get 2 codes. P0171 and P0174. Bank 1 and Bank 2 Too Lean. Definitely running on the lean side. After this last hard start, I had my scanner hooked up reading the live data, Fuel Trim (Lngshft1 and Shrtshft1; Lngshft2 and Shrtshft2) was low. Lngshft1 and ShrtShft Bank 1 showed fuel trim at start up was -10.4% on Shrtshft1 and -25.6% on Lngshft1. Running very lean on bank 1, and bank 2 was also running lean. I did clean the MAF sensor, replaced the air filter. Check for vaccum leak for about an hour and could not find one. Fuel pump is good, runs just fine. Got out the multimeter and everything seems to check out. I'm thinking its possibly the fuel filter, maybe a bad MAF, purge valve, or O2 sensor. I've been researching for a few days and looking over the truck but cant figure it out. Rather than going through the task of replacing everything and hoping it works, I figured I'd see if anyone else and had similar problem and found the solution. It runs great any other time, MAF showing correct numbers, same with Fuel Trim showing normal numbers. It's only when I fill up. Maybe a fuel pressure issue somewhere.
  3. Can anyone tell me what engines are compatible with a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LTZ 5.3L with flex fuel?
  4. What all parts would I need to do a 6.0 cam swap on a 5.3 truck is a 2008
  5. What would be the best way to go about getting rid of all the clatter on cold startups on a 2008 Silverado 5.3L, and what would need to happen to get rid of the 4 cylinder mode all together?
  6. Hello everyone, i'm asking for advice & help you guys. I know it's not a good way to start with asking help, I'm sorry bout this. Let me shortly introduce myself - my name is Alex, I live in Russian Federation, Moscow and I drive 2006 Chevy Tahoe (gmt 800) with 5.3 Vortec engine (simple gas, no flex fuel). I am facing a problem with my oil pressure gauge - while driving or at idle oil pressure gauge jumping from 0 to max value. It may stuck at 0 for long time (hour or so) or can stuck at max value also. When I switch ignition on gauge does NOT jump to max, everything seems to be ok for at engine start but soon gauge become messy. As a pressure falls to 0 I have an alarm warning with horn and alarm in message centre. When this happenes, gauge jumps to max and when falls down again sometimes. I'd like to mention that there are not any strange sounds with engine (no knocking or something) when pressure falls down. Since I did not find a particular my problem at different forums, I decided to ask you guys. Also it's a bit difficult to maintain and service such vehicle here in Russia, so I would really appreciate for any advice of community. I recorded some videos with mess going on with my vehicle and uploaded them to YouTube so I can share them with you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbPpOAKi2D8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lbm4Gn3YYzI I found in rockauto store this new acdelco oil pressure sensor ACDELCO 12677836 - is this correct partnumber for me? Any advice and help truly appreciatable. P.S.: thats my second GM truck, the previous one was Tahoe 1996 5 doors 5.7 Vortec engine
  7. Why is my 2012 GMC Savana is very sluggish going up the mountains in Colorado. I have 117,000 miles on it. We are the original owners. I'm getting passed by everyone on I-70. I don't want to shift in 2nd gear & rev at 3000 rpm. No check engine light & runs well otherwise.
  8. So about a week ago, I got the "Left rear indicator failure" I figured it was just a bulb. So I put it off for a couple days. However, this Saturday I decided to change out the bulbs. Well the bulbs are good and also the fuses. I checked the wires that come from the junction box and they where all good. Any idea what it could be? The running lights work, but when it comes to stoping and the turn signal I get nothing. This shit is driving me crazy. This is what I've been told: - I need a new Junction Box. - I need to replace the fuse box in the engine bay Please help, thanks for anything!
  9. Good afternoon, I am attempting to chase down an oil leak on my 2005 Yukon XL with the 5.3. As far as I can tell, it is coming down the back of the block all the way from the top, and is leaving about a baseball-sized puddle on the ground overnight. I have replaced the valve cover gaskets, valley pan gasket, and installed a brand new oil pressure switch. What else could it be?? Could the camshaft position sensor be leaking?
  10. Hey guys, I got a 2015 Silverado 5.3l. 138,250km. started ticking sometime last winter. Would happen instantly at start up and last about 5 minutes then would fade away. Sounded like a lifter. Took it to the dealer they said they couldn't hear it. Sound went away so left it. Fast forward to this winter and as Soon as the weather started to cool down I noticed the ticking again. Took it back to the dealer said they couldn't hear it again. I went and picked up my truck right at closing, soon as I fired her up the sound was there but everyone was gone so no one to hear it. I took a video. Next day I called the dealer, sent the video. Took like a week to get back to me. In the meantime I had taken videos pretty much every time I started it. Long story short after a brief fight with them about them trying to say it's normal etc they agreed that it sounded like a noise coming from the valve train. Left my truck with them, they called me said they had to change all lifters. Went to pick up my truck and on start up the sound is still there. This was a month ago. Sent more videos and a previous video from before they did the work and they are saying they can't hear it again. Took it in in person they agreed that there's an issue again and they will look at it. Now they are saying it's possible bad injector noise but they can't figure out which one . In the meantime I took it to another dealership they changed the vacuum pump. After that the sound changed. Now it's no longer at start up but once the truck has reached operating temperature and is more of a dull sound. Took it back to that same dealer who did the vacuum pump and they said valve train noise and deffo not injectors. But they won't work on it because the other dealer already did. They didn't change the VLOM or the cam. I had/have no check engine lights. Truck runs awesome. Sometimes rough idle. Any ideas what it could be?
  11. So I had a bully dog tuner for my truck and haven't had it plugged in since I got a new engine installed a few years back. Found it today and found someone who would buy it. Contacted bully dog and found out that I would have to change my tuning to "stock" to be able to unlock the device so the guy could buy it from me. I told them that my truck was already stock and they said that I just needed to run the stock tune to be able to unlock it. So I did that and it cut my engine power and turned off ABS and Stabilitrak. Cant go over 25mph, truck shakes, sounds weird. I have no idea what to do and their customer service is closed for the night. I have work in the morning, any suggestions?
  12. Currently looking at 3.5-4.5 lift kits thinking about running a rough country 3.5 lift with the lift struts anyone ran them? How’s the ride quality?? And what other lift brands y’all recommend that include a lift strut not a strut spacer
  13. This is one for the ages to me. The truck has the correct: FUEL PRESSURE: 60psi SPARK: verified visually [AND WITH STARTING FLUID] correct injector pulse [verified by test light signal from ecm, test light neg to batt positive, test lead to INJ signal] and I went a step further unbolted the fuel rail and visually verified spray from all 8 injectors]. THE TRUCK WILL RUN --- OFF OF STARTING FLUID There is also a shrader valve on the passenger side [Fuel pressure verified and in spec 58-62psi] I used Autel scan tool to verify and slightly boost the rail presssure, STILL NO START -- IT STARTS AND DIES IMMEDIATELY, as if the injectors are being cut off. The throttle body was replaced 1 year + ago, but the truck has been driving since then, using the existing thrott body... until now. NO CODES COME UP EXCEPT THE HEATED SEAT BACK -- on a system-wide scan. I did notice that if i unplug the INJector harness connector (only did the driver's side) that NO CODES will come up either, as if the ECM doesn't care if i unplugged the harness connector to the fuel INJectors, NO MALFUNCTION REPORTS it. ANY IDEAS that experienced techs with Silverado LTZ 2013 would be great if anyone else has seen this before, THANKS. NO PASSLOCK MESSAGES However I do notice that the ENGINE (symbol) STAYS SOLID WHILE CRANKING -- I dont know what this means on a 2013 Silverado, if any thing..if anyone knows.. please HELP! I will include here more info from my notes: Tools: Autel MaxiSys DVOM multimeter various jumper wires Mini oscilloscope THREW AT IT SO FAR: Crankshaft position sensor [Advance Auto, $40] Oil Pressure Sensor (hoping it's failure was a failsafe, NOT!) Autozone $75! OUCH! that was NOT it! 8 A/C DELCO Spark Plugs, $7.99! They were sludgy, but NOPE, that ain't it either! $65 IF I Quickly cycle the key, just BUMPS at a TIME, im sure injectors are shooting fuel when that is being done, so after about 5 or 6 BUMPS like that, the engine will run, BUT SUDDENLY DIES when that fuel burns .. 2 - 3 SECONDS.. Never ran into one this tough
  14. New to the forum here, and I have a 2005 chevy silverado 1500 with the 5.3L. I drive to and from michigan from chicago for college every couple of weeks. The last time I drove up to michigan 2 hours into my drive the oil pressure gauge started slowly moving down from 40psi. Every 10 minutes it seemed it moved down a notch until it got to 15psi and then I pulled over just to investigate because the truck was running perfectly normal and no warning lights or anything were on. I did a walk around, no leaks, no engine noise and the oil level was in the same place as when I left. Also when I stopped the pressure gauge dropped to 0 at idle and the truck idled normal. I continued to drive till i got to my destinations 30 minutes later. The next day when I started it back up the oil pressure is now reading normal and has read normal for the last week. I went to tech school and I know my way around an engine and i'm almost positive this isn't a mechanical issue, im thinking its the oil pressure sensor or sending unit or it could be the gauge itself because first gen silverados are famous for bad gauges but i feel if it was a bad sensor there would be warning lights? Not sure though, any of you guys experience an issue like this or have any idea of what to check or what it could be?? Much appreciated!!
  15. Im currently thinking on which lift i wanna get im definitely going with a bds 4 inch lift kit On my 2018 1500 . But whats the difference in ride quality between the normal one Which includes a whole new strut between the more expensive one which has fox coilovers and shocks?? and have any of yall ran either one and how did it feel?? Also can i fit 22x12s in a 4 inch ???
  16. Hey guys and gals I was hoping y’all could answer a question of mine. I currently own a 2019 Silverado trail boss with the 5.3 and 6 speed transmission. A mechanic told me the transmission is a ticking time bomb if I do any performance mods. Such as a cam swap and tune. So I explained my plan for the future. Cold air intake, flow master exhaust, headers, tune and cam swap. He said if I do any of the big changes to the engine the tranny may go out. The reason why is because the stock transmission was only made to handle the stock HP and TQ. Have any of y’all had an issue like this after some big performance mods?
  17. I was wondering what a good swap would be. I have the stock 5.3 but I want some umph. I travel for work and still need gas mileage but I have hit a dead end in research. Can anyone help me?
  18. Hey folks, first time posting here and maybe it’s a common thing. I’ve searched google and YouTube for days, replaced parts, and done the troubleshooting I know to do. So here it is, bear in mind, im no auto mechanic. I’m a jet mechanic/toolmaker. Lol my front pass brake locked up Friday, and the abs/parking brake light has been on since the dealer I got the truck from replaced the parking brake cable. I don’t hear a roaring, so I don’t feel like it’s a hub, but I do have some bouncing on the front end which leads me to think it may be an axel, which I still have to get looked at. parking brake and abs lights come on after a few seconds of driving, I hear brakes grinding, and I just replaced both front rotors, pads, and passenger caliper and abs sensor after it locked up; since it melted the abs sensor cable. brakes are bled properly and working, but they aren’t fully releasing. I’ve checked fluid, it’s not overfilled. Driver hub was previously replaced but not passenger for some reason. I considered ordering a hub for the passenger side just for that. Rotors are 305mm and the pads I installed are ceramic from brake best. Yes, the rotors get hot after a short drive, like too hot to touch. I’d rather not have these things lock up on me again. The only thing left I know to check are the piston in the master cylinder, or the passenger hub. Any ideas? If I’ve missed good reference material or prior posts please feel free to comment with a link and a nice “check here dumbass.” Lol thanks in advance.
  19. Hey guys I’m new to the forum as well the brand. I recently just bought a 2019 custom trail boss which only offers the 5.3. I wanted the 6.2 but that came with only the higher trims. I’m familiar with the 5.7 hemi and I’m kinda down about the 355 horsepower/ 383 torque compared to my hemi that I traded. What can I do exactly to get more power to the engine?
  20. Newb here. My 07 Yukon has been in the shop over a week now. (Local mechanic) Have had the vehicle about a year, changed the oil regularly, replaced oil sensor and sending unit due to the infamous low oil pressure warnings. Thing has driven great until randomly one day she started idle hard and misfired when going into first. I changed all sparks, plugs. No change. Shop is saying my oil pump is completely shot..? I've had no noise no other signs of it starting to fail. My sensor would routinely go off a month prior to oil change being due. Do these things really just crap out? Could it be related to my misfire? They are checkin the head on that, otherwise she drove normal and smooth once I go over 15mph. If she survives and my wallet doesn't get drained, I will be disabling the AFM.
  21. So I have a 04 Silverado crew cab z71 4wd. I have a 2.5 inch lift, cold air intake, and 285/70/17 mud tires. I’m looking to turn my truck into a little bit more of a power house. I plan on getting all new spark plugs (need help with which spark plugs) and a whole new exhaust from the headers back. (Also need help finding that). I’m trying to get the most performance out of these upgrades as I can as I am getting a inTune i3 8245 Platinum + Custom DiabLew Tune as soon as I decide what spark plugs, and full exhaust system I plan on getting. I want the most performance I can get out of these upgrades.
  22. I just bought a 2015 GMC Sierra Double Cab 2WD 5.3L and I'm trying to find a full headers back exhaust system. If it helps any to tell what i like, I like the sound of my dads F150 5.0L with long tube headers and mbrp exhaust. I like loud but not obnoxiously loud. I like a nice sound of a V8.
  23. Newb here. My 07 Yukon has been in the shop over a week now. (Local mechanic) Have had the vehicle about a year, changed the oil regularly, replaced oil sensor and sending unit due to the infamous low oil pressure warnings. Thing has driven great until randomly one day she started idle hard and misfired when going into first. I changed all sparks, plugs. No change. Shop is saying my oil pump is completely shot..? I've had no noise no other signs of it starting to fail. My sensor would routinely go off a month prior to oil change being due. Do these things really just crap out? Could it be related to my misfire? They are checkin the head on that, otherwise she drove normal and smooth once I go over 15mph. If she survives and my wallet doesn't get drained, I will be disabling the AFM.
  24. So I had a check engine light on for awhile didnt think much of it till it thru me into limp mode before work one morning. I did some digging around and ended up replacing my throttle body. Light went away everything was great then a week later it came back on and not long after that it thru me into limp mode. It hasnt done it since. The truck is throwing codes for the TPS, Evap, and a random misfire. Before i go spending money I dont have and throwing random parts at it does anybody have any clue? its been several days since it put me in limp mode but it hasnt come back yet.
  25. Selling my personal truck this spring as it just sits and never gets used now that I drive a company truck. Hate to see it go as I love the truck but It just doesn't make sense to keep it. Truck has only ever been used as casual use / commuting to work, rarely has this truck ever even been off paved road. 2014 GMC Sierra SLT - All Terrain Package Approx 37,000mi on it (59,000km) Clear Title, no accidents or claims of any type, no leins. Truck is owned outright. Very Clean Truck - like new, just a few small paint chips on front bumper and 1 or 2 minor blemishes from idiots banging their doors into it in parking lots. 5.3L Vortec, 5.8ft box, Crew Cab c/w 20" factory wheel package and Toyo Open Country AT2 Extreme 33" x 12.5" x 20" tires - only about 10,000 miles on tires, barely worn. Full load including; Towing Package (never towed a trailer with the truck) Factory Paint matched bumpers front and rear - no chrome Sunroof Power Sliding window Heated seats and steering wheel Park assist system Hill descent assist Hill Start assist Remote start Levelling kit Extang - Encore Tonno - Hard cover, trifold, locable and sealed Bed-liner Front windows 20% tint to match rears GMC premium floor mats front and rear, full coverage - carpet is like brand new C/W 4 General Grabber x-ice winter tires - 90% tread I am sure I am forgetting some features - Truck has every option available for this package, I have the original build sheet if someone wants to see it. For sale $ 29,000 USD Truck is located in Kelowna, BC - about 1.5 hrs north of Oroville Crossing. May be able to deliver truck to other Northern Washington Crossings for a serious buyer. Lots more pictures available, this is all a am able to post due to file size. Any questions or interest shoot me a PM and I can provide my phone number.
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