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Drives

  1. So up until yesterday the truck was driving relatively smoothly, there was the occasional hard shift from 1st to 2nd (which I believe these trucks are known for). I stopped at a stop light yesterday and started going and then at about 20 MPH the truck decided it didnt want to shift. This happened a few times throughout the day and seemed to get worse as the day went on and at this point it now does it every time it gets down into the lower gears. I switched to manual to see what gear it was stuck in and it showed 2nd and then 3rd after it shifted and didnt want to shift up. EDIT: Transmission temps when I was looking did not appear to get above 205 F, Fluid is red like it should be, level seems fine. Is there a known issue with these transmissions or an easy fix I can attempt? Transmissions are voodoo to me
  2. Hey everyone My 4.8 finally blew out after 360k miles, since imma need to replace the motor, I thought I might as well switch to a 5.3 since they're cheap and readily available at my local junk yard. I'm planning on getting one from the same year truck (99-02) along with the computer from whichever truck I pull it from to avoid having to flash my current pcm. Will i have any problems passing smog if I go this route? I know that as of July this year they've started checking your ecu for tunes. Im hoping if I swap my 4.8 computer with the factory 5.3 it shouldn't be a problem since it'll be the original one that came with the engine.
  3. Hello all. I have a 2013 silverado w/5.3l flex vin 7. Basically has rough idle in park and drive. Very poor acceleration. Almost seems to bog down when trying to accelerate. It will occasionally surge and for just a split second I can feel a bit of power. Also doesn't want to downshift when I lean on the gas pretty heavy. I've got to do near floor it to get it to down ****** and when it does it will drop down 2 gears a lot of the time. No engine light and it won't set any codes. Showed 0 misfires on all cylinders. Long Fuel trims usually in single digits negs. Fuel pressure 43-46psi at idle and highway. I've replaced throttle position sensor, Accelerator pedal position sensor, manifold pressure sensor, mass air sensor, plugs, coolant temp sensor, oxygen sensors. Fuel pump, intake manifold gaskets twice (now with "updated" steel gaskets), throttle body gasket/seal, injector o-rings (upper and lower). Tested all coils for strong spark. Smoke tested for vac leaks along with propane. It has never failed to start or even had a long start and has never died/stalled. I'm just kinda at a loss at this point. Any help will be appreciated and possibly considered. Thanks
  4. My 2009 5.3 GMT900 flex fuel LMG motor is running rich. Short term fuel trims are on average -12 or lower (don't have an average field on my scanner, but it's at best a -7, at worst a -17, and most often it's a double digit figure). I've tried a new MAP, new MAF, new plugs, new fuel rail sensor, and tested the fuel pump pressure. The pump kicks out about 60 psi on a cold start and holds steady at 43 psi. I have tried resetting data by unplugging the power to the ECM - which works considering long term trims reset. Someone mentioned resetting the TPS. Not sure how with an OBDLink scanner. Other than that, my idle holds at -5 short term trim until long term trims becomes -5, then itll hold closer to 0 short term idle trim. Anything other than an idle has a double digit long term trim in the negatives and anywhere from -7 to -17 short term trim. Alcohol content is at 6.9% which seems right. It runs decent when you reset the trims, then it loses a bunch of power after maybe a quarter mile and goes back to running like a dog at anything besides WOT. Please help I'm running out of options. It recently cut P0172 and P0175 codes on both banks. I installed a short ram Specter intake about a month or 2 ago, but the engine has been running poorly before that. It didn't throw codes before however. All vacuum tubes are secure and I did a brakekleen vacuum spray test and there aren't any leaks I could find.
  5. I have a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4wd with the 4L60-e 4 speed transmission. Currently I have no speedometer and despite the transmission shifting very well, it skips second gear consistently (no intermittent functioning). This is the ONLY gear that it has issues with (reverse and the rest of the gears are good). Here is the story... I bought this truck being told the transmission was shot. Initially it would not shift past 1st and also had a functioning reverse. I had the tranny swapped with an equivalent from a suburban. It improved slightly but still there is no speedometer or second gear. NO ENGINE CODES have come up throughout this entire time including prior to tranny being swapped (this includes no ABS lights). Here are the different problems I have found on the internet that I have tried to rule out: VSS- A mechanic with a good computer states that all 3 Vehicle Speed Sensors read correct speeds in real time on the road Ignition switch- Already changed Fuses/relays- All appear to be intact and functioning Dash cluster- broken connections fixed restoring all function besides speedometer Transmission treatment- Lucas treatment put in in case this could be a sticky solenoid to no avail Grounds- All appear to be in excellent condition and no frayed wires visible Low Voltage- New battery in place Help me out! What I can see as being my next options are either changing out the ECU or the wiring harness, neither of which I am desiring to do. Any recommendations from your experience that I may have missed in my internet reading?
  6. Has anyone ever tried changing the aluminum line to rubber hose crimps for the transmission and oil cooler lines out for AN fittings on and 07-13 Sierra 5.3L? I have a 2013 Sierra and the cold here in Canada isn’t kind to these crimps as I believe the rubber and aluminum have different shrink rates because of difference in material causing them to leak. Replacing them will not solve the problem as the will just do the same thing every year. So what I want to know is if anyone has successfully done this and what fittings did you use?
  7. Last summer I purchased a 2001 Yukon XL with the 5.3L engine, replaced the rear rotor/pads and air filter, then went on a 13,000 mile 8-month road trip starting in Boston, going through Maine, Atlantic Canada, back to Boston for a seasonable job, then to New Mexico via South, back again to Boston through the midwest and finally Florida to help my folks through covid (all safe). The truck now has 191K miles, but the original title indicated the mileage was not accurate (which is how I got it for $1,200 on eBay), so, who knows. The mechanic who did the rear brakes was surprised how little rust was in the undercarriage. I removed the rear seats, added a mattress and three milkcrates for my stuff, installed a cheap aftermarket radio with bluetooth and a rearview mirror camera. Brake and ABS warning lights were skillfully covered with duct tape by the previous owner, I removed the ABS fuse because ABS kicked in without need when breaking at low speeds (dirty sensors?). Over the 13K miles I had 2 oil changes + tire rotation at Wally, and poured Bar’s Leaks into the radiator to stop a slow coolant leak out of the intake manifold. I drove full tanks at different speeds on cruise and averaged: - ~13 MPG city - 20.44 MPG at 55 highway (sorry truckers, thanks for not throwing your pee bottles on my windshield) - 19.53 MPG at 60 highway - 18.81 MPG at 65 highway It’s been a hell of a truck, and now in Florida I have a garage + time, and will do some maintenance. Here is my list, I appreciate any suggestions (or requests): driver side rear caliper/pads/hose (the wheel is a little warmer than the others after driving, and it just started to whistle though pads/rotors are only 13K miles) front rotors and pads, total brake fluid flush check if front hubs need replacement (I occasionally hear a noise when turning left at very low speeds) oil change w/ amazon synthetic + mobil 1 filter trans fluid flush w/ Dexron VI, new filter, and tighten valve body bolts (sometimes tranny thumps from a stop after highway driving, but the fluid is still pink enough) spark plugs and wires (just tested resistance, 7 AC Delco wires are perfect, at about 660 ohms but the 1 shorter Denso wire is at 505 ohms; double platinum AC Delco 41-962s have some gray and orange and could probably go back, but I’ll change just because I went through the trauma of removing them - BTW, three out of the eight plugs have oil in the threads, should I be happy?) fan clutch (not a lot of resistance, and my ac belt “jackhammers” when moving from idle - which according to some of the forums might be due to higher freon temps at idle due to a dying fan clutch) fuel filter clean and seal all grounds both downstream oz sensors (voltage is getting lazy) I’m predicting that between the freed caliper, new plugs/wires, fuel filter, trans fluid and oz sensors I will see some mpg improvement over the next 10K miles, which will hopefully cover the Pacific Southwest, California and Pacific Canada. Thank you all for sharing you knowledge here, I look forward to putting it all into practice.
  8. Long time no see, today for my first oil change I brought up the fact that my truck sometimes shifts hard coming to a stop. Always the 2-1 shift. This was the response... the service advisor said “there is a lawsuit in the states”.. dunno if that’s true? Looking for opinions, will this ever go away?!
  9. I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4. A/c has been out for over 2 years had a bad compressor never got around to fixing it. Today I replaced the compressor, condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, and flushed all lines. Took it up to my buddy at the dealership and we charged it up. Put it under vacuum for a bit and no leaks. Drove home about 12 miles no problems blew ice cold. Left to go to the store about 2 hours later started it up the ac button was on but clutch wasn’t engaged and ac blowing warm. Turned the button off then back on clutch engaged and blew ice cold. About 10-15 seconds clutch disengages blows hot cycle the button again blows cold again. Every 10 seconds or so it blows hot and I have to cycle the ac button on the dash again get cold air. I know the compressor clutch should cycle on and off that’s normal but I don’t think it should be that frequent and you shouldn’t feel that significant of a temperature change right? And when it cycles off it doesn’t come back on unless you cycle the button. I’m thinking a issue with the low pressure switch on the accumulator but any advice?
  10. I had a flashing check engine light on my 2016 Tahoe (5.3 with 21,000 miles) that would come on for 30 seconds and then go away. Happened to me twice, about a week apart, going up a slight grade at about 20% power. Truck drove fine and didn't seem to be really impacted by it. I took it in yesterday to the Chevy dealer to have them check it out. They did not tell me the code that they were able to pull but let me know they were going to replace the lifters in it. Seems like a pretty big repair job.. the service technician said its an expensive repair. Curious to hear if others have also had this problem. Hopefully this is just a one off and will be fine going forward. Luckily I have another 15K miles of warranty left so will monitor closely. This is my first GM vehicle in 8 years after returning to the brand. I've also been battling the vibration going over 70 mph but have it pretty well isolated to the tires. Truck has the factory 22" rims which probably don't help the problem. Lowered PSI in the tires to 33 psi and recently had them balanced/rotated which helped. Will probably throw on a set of Michelin's shortly to dump the factory Bridgestones.
  11. Hi there, I bought a used 2011 Chevy Tahoe 4WD with 151k. As soon the car is released and street legal in Germany, I do a full oil/fluid replacement incl. all filters + spark plugs and spark plug wires. In regards to my engine oil change, this is my plan: 1st engine oil change I plan to use an oil sludge remover to "clean" the engine from inside. Its called Liqui Moly Oil Sludge Flush. With the new engine oil, I plan to add Liqui Moly Hydraulic Lifter Additive . 2nd engine oil change (...when its due next time) I plan to use another engine cleaner called RAVENOL Professional Engine Cleaner to make sure that all debris are removed as much as possible. With the new engine oil, I plan to add an additive called TriboTEX Original In regards to coolant change I want to use a coolant system cleaner and a radiator stop leakage which can be used preventively. I am also going to permanently disabling the AFM on software level done by a US car tuner. I heard/ read that the Vortec 5.3L engine in those 3rd Gen Tahoes tends to build up oil sludge so I thought it might be a good idea for a good engine flush. Anything pro or contra? Any feedback is highly appreciated. Please stay safe and healthy! Niels
  12. New 5.3 all ran previous. new long block in. go to start cranks won't start. New grounds, crank sensor, cam shaft sensor. Everything is plugged in. Got fuel. No spark. Checked fuses.
  13. Hi all, my Sierra went into reduced power mode a few weeks ago and I replaced the accelerator pedal position sensor after reading P1125. The code went away immediately and all was well. Today, my car went back into limp mode. I took the tape off my APPS connector wires and they seem to be in fine condition, the guy must have just wanted to keep them bundled together. After unplugging my apps, I plugged it back in and it got out of limp mode and I was able to drive it for like 5 miles until it went back into REP. Same code, 1125. Again, I tried unplugging/plugging the connector back in and the code is gone. Any thoughts as to why it keeps going back to reduced power and goes away for a bit after unplugging and plugging the APPS back in?
  14. Hello all, This is my first post on the forum and I’m fairly new to the truck world. I just went from a barebones 2018 Colorado to a new 2020 Sierra SLT 4x4 with the 5.3L this week. A few questions I had right off the bat that I’m curious about is the off road modes on it. I don’t plan on doing much or any off-roading in it, and too be honest I’m not sure how capable it is not being an AT4. Anyway, I noticed it has an Off-Road mode on the mode dial but there’s also a button for a Terrain mode. I was curious about similarities and differences between the two. Also, how is the Sport mode? Noticeable differences between that and normal? Sorry this is so long, but I’m excited to get out there and test it out but wanted some advice before I do. Thanks so much.
  15. I was hoping y’all could help me on my decision. I have a 2019 custom trail boss 5.3 with AFM 6 speed. I called the local dealership here and asked how my warranty would be effected if I disable the AFM. They told me “as long as that tune didn’t cause the damage of whatever i bring the truck in for all is well.” So they recommended me to a local tuner here in town which was surprising. I called him and he said to disable my AFM it would cost around 500. I do know about the range device but I don’t want to to deal with the battery issues it can cause if you mistakenly leave it plugged in. My other option is the hand held tuners such as a diablo. I have zero experience with them but I am going to put in a cold air intake and flow master 44 exhaust in the future. Would my best bet be the Diablo tuner to disable the AFM and use it to adjust my truck to my other mods or go with the professional tuner?
  16. 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT 5.3 Vortec. 2WD. I've got a head scratcher here. So filling up the other day, I went to start the truck, and acted like it didn't have any fuel to start. Either that or fouled plugs. Took a few tries and started hard, idled rough for about a minute and then was running good. It's been cooler outside as its winter, roughly in the 20s and 30s. But the truck was already at operating temperature. It's happened twice now after I've filled up and no other time does it do it. Few things: Around 3 weeks ago I forgot to replace the gas cap, lost it on the road. Didn't replace it until the first time it started hard. I've recently changed the oil. Along with that I used a lucas oil additive made for variable valve timing. I also used a fuel treatment for carbon deposits. After looking with my telescope camera, it did its job. Now I did get 2 codes. P0171 and P0174. Bank 1 and Bank 2 Too Lean. Definitely running on the lean side. After this last hard start, I had my scanner hooked up reading the live data, Fuel Trim (Lngshft1 and Shrtshft1; Lngshft2 and Shrtshft2) was low. Lngshft1 and ShrtShft Bank 1 showed fuel trim at start up was -10.4% on Shrtshft1 and -25.6% on Lngshft1. Running very lean on bank 1, and bank 2 was also running lean. I did clean the MAF sensor, replaced the air filter. Check for vaccum leak for about an hour and could not find one. Fuel pump is good, runs just fine. Got out the multimeter and everything seems to check out. I'm thinking its possibly the fuel filter, maybe a bad MAF, purge valve, or O2 sensor. I've been researching for a few days and looking over the truck but cant figure it out. Rather than going through the task of replacing everything and hoping it works, I figured I'd see if anyone else and had similar problem and found the solution. It runs great any other time, MAF showing correct numbers, same with Fuel Trim showing normal numbers. It's only when I fill up. Maybe a fuel pressure issue somewhere.
  17. Can anyone tell me what engines are compatible with a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LTZ 5.3L with flex fuel?
  18. What all parts would I need to do a 6.0 cam swap on a 5.3 truck is a 2008
  19. What would be the best way to go about getting rid of all the clatter on cold startups on a 2008 Silverado 5.3L, and what would need to happen to get rid of the 4 cylinder mode all together?
  20. Hello everyone, i'm asking for advice & help you guys. I know it's not a good way to start with asking help, I'm sorry bout this. Let me shortly introduce myself - my name is Alex, I live in Russian Federation, Moscow and I drive 2006 Chevy Tahoe (gmt 800) with 5.3 Vortec engine (simple gas, no flex fuel). I am facing a problem with my oil pressure gauge - while driving or at idle oil pressure gauge jumping from 0 to max value. It may stuck at 0 for long time (hour or so) or can stuck at max value also. When I switch ignition on gauge does NOT jump to max, everything seems to be ok for at engine start but soon gauge become messy. As a pressure falls to 0 I have an alarm warning with horn and alarm in message centre. When this happenes, gauge jumps to max and when falls down again sometimes. I'd like to mention that there are not any strange sounds with engine (no knocking or something) when pressure falls down. Since I did not find a particular my problem at different forums, I decided to ask you guys. Also it's a bit difficult to maintain and service such vehicle here in Russia, so I would really appreciate for any advice of community. I recorded some videos with mess going on with my vehicle and uploaded them to YouTube so I can share them with you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbPpOAKi2D8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lbm4Gn3YYzI I found in rockauto store this new acdelco oil pressure sensor ACDELCO 12677836 - is this correct partnumber for me? Any advice and help truly appreciatable. P.S.: thats my second GM truck, the previous one was Tahoe 1996 5 doors 5.7 Vortec engine
  21. Why is my 2012 GMC Savana is very sluggish going up the mountains in Colorado. I have 117,000 miles on it. We are the original owners. I'm getting passed by everyone on I-70. I don't want to shift in 2nd gear & rev at 3000 rpm. No check engine light & runs well otherwise.
  22. So about a week ago, I got the "Left rear indicator failure" I figured it was just a bulb. So I put it off for a couple days. However, this Saturday I decided to change out the bulbs. Well the bulbs are good and also the fuses. I checked the wires that come from the junction box and they where all good. Any idea what it could be? The running lights work, but when it comes to stoping and the turn signal I get nothing. This shit is driving me crazy. This is what I've been told: - I need a new Junction Box. - I need to replace the fuse box in the engine bay Please help, thanks for anything!
  23. Good afternoon, I am attempting to chase down an oil leak on my 2005 Yukon XL with the 5.3. As far as I can tell, it is coming down the back of the block all the way from the top, and is leaving about a baseball-sized puddle on the ground overnight. I have replaced the valve cover gaskets, valley pan gasket, and installed a brand new oil pressure switch. What else could it be?? Could the camshaft position sensor be leaking?
  24. Hey guys, I got a 2015 Silverado 5.3l. 138,250km. started ticking sometime last winter. Would happen instantly at start up and last about 5 minutes then would fade away. Sounded like a lifter. Took it to the dealer they said they couldn't hear it. Sound went away so left it. Fast forward to this winter and as Soon as the weather started to cool down I noticed the ticking again. Took it back to the dealer said they couldn't hear it again. I went and picked up my truck right at closing, soon as I fired her up the sound was there but everyone was gone so no one to hear it. I took a video. Next day I called the dealer, sent the video. Took like a week to get back to me. In the meantime I had taken videos pretty much every time I started it. Long story short after a brief fight with them about them trying to say it's normal etc they agreed that it sounded like a noise coming from the valve train. Left my truck with them, they called me said they had to change all lifters. Went to pick up my truck and on start up the sound is still there. This was a month ago. Sent more videos and a previous video from before they did the work and they are saying they can't hear it again. Took it in in person they agreed that there's an issue again and they will look at it. Now they are saying it's possible bad injector noise but they can't figure out which one ?. In the meantime I took it to another dealership they changed the vacuum pump. After that the sound changed. Now it's no longer at start up but once the truck has reached operating temperature and is more of a dull sound. Took it back to that same dealer who did the vacuum pump and they said valve train noise and deffo not injectors. But they won't work on it because the other dealer already did. They didn't change the VLOM or the cam. I had/have no check engine lights. Truck runs awesome. Sometimes rough idle. Any ideas what it could be?
  25. So I had a bully dog tuner for my truck and haven't had it plugged in since I got a new engine installed a few years back. Found it today and found someone who would buy it. Contacted bully dog and found out that I would have to change my tuning to "stock" to be able to unlock the device so the guy could buy it from me. I told them that my truck was already stock and they said that I just needed to run the stock tune to be able to unlock it. So I did that and it cut my engine power and turned off ABS and Stabilitrak. Cant go over 25mph, truck shakes, sounds weird. I have no idea what to do and their customer service is closed for the night. I have work in the morning, any suggestions?
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