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Drives

  1. I am having issues with my brand new 2015 GMC Yukon Denali. I was so excited to get this new car. It had a leak in the back right rear window from the start. They had to replace the entire headliner in the interior. Now I've got a shiver when in idle both in gear and out of gear. It feels like the car needs more gas. I've taken it into the shop 3 times now. The service department, after listening to my complaint and acknowledging the shiver, ultimately states that the car is "operating as designed". I've test driven a 6.2 liter Denali that does not have this issue. They've stone-walled me at GM, essentially saying they can't fix a problem that doesn't exist. Has anyone else had this issue? You would think that a brand new car wouldn't have this issue, and that they could do something to fix a rough idle. I'm beyond frustrated. I'd love to hear if anyone has the same problem.
  2. My warranty recently expired on my 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3L and I was wondering if anyone could recommend a tuner for my year truck. I drive about a 100 miles a day at time and would like to get a little more mpg. I have access to 93 in my area as well. Any help is appreciated.
  3. So up until yesterday the truck was driving relatively smoothly, there was the occasional hard shift from 1st to 2nd (which I believe these trucks are known for). I stopped at a stop light yesterday and started going and then at about 20 MPH the truck decided it didnt want to shift. This happened a few times throughout the day and seemed to get worse as the day went on and at this point it now does it every time it gets down into the lower gears. I switched to manual to see what gear it was stuck in and it showed 2nd and then 3rd after it shifted and didnt want to shift up. EDIT: Transmission temps when I was looking did not appear to get above 205 F, Fluid is red like it should be, level seems fine. Is there a known issue with these transmissions or an easy fix I can attempt? Transmissions are voodoo to me
  4. I just bought a pre-owned 2015 Yukon Denali and I Love it! I've been waiting for the feel of a big V8 engine with 4 wheel drive so this girl can dirty on any road.. It's beautiful and I'm SO happy to own a sexy Denali. I've only had it for two weeks so I'm learning every thing about it with each drive. So far the engine purrs and all gauges read level. It's got 98k mi on it so I'm expecting it to have some wear and tear. So just yesterday morning I pulled away from a stop sign and gave a good rev got up to 50mph in a few sec... and as I approached a slow zone I took my foot off the gas.. lowered speed to about 25 then gave it a little more gas while going up a slight hill in the road and I hear what sounded like a knocking noise. I took my foot off the gas and the sound went away. So on the drive home where I have to ascend up to about 2200 ft elevation it did it again as I was coasting and had to accelerate from 25 to around 30 mph I kept my foot on the gas this time (engine sounding smooth as silk) and continued uphill about 45mph and the sound went away. It's always a short knocking/rattling sound. Not in the engine but below me, definitely upfront. I've got an appt at GMC next week but until then I'd love to figure it out. Not sure what other details you need but any one got any idea? Thanks everyone! -Dia
  5. I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight???
  6. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  7. First post here and I wasn't quite sure where to post. This isn't really troubleshooting because we know what is wrong, I'm mainly wanting to know if there are large scale issues regarding this and how do we get in touch with GMC about it as our mechanic isn't much help at this point other than charging $1100 to fix it. We bought a used 2015 GMC Yukon last year with 20k miles on it. A month ago, the Side Blind Zone alert on the side mirrors came on and have stayed on permanently, even when the car is turned off. Because of that, it drains our battery when the car is parked longer than 2-3 days. I took it into the shop a couple of days ago and we find out that the box that houses the sensors, in the right rear quarter panel, had become detached and was dangling close to the exhaust pipe. Because of this, it totally melted the box housing the sensors. The mechanic tells us that the sensor box is only glued in and can become detached easily. This is costing us $1100 to fix because the sensor is over $300, and then labor for the past 2 days to get it back in place. Is there a thread in here from others who have had this issue? Is this a wide spread issue? Should GMC pay to fix this and if so, what are my next steps? Thanks!
  8. I purchased a brand new Suburban in 2015 from Sawgrass Chevrolet in November 2015. Over the last 6 months my husband and I noticed the paint on the hood of the vehicle is faded and has noticiable swirls. I had it evaluated by a auto body shop and they confirmed the paint is defective and there is no clear coat. I've also been told by the dealership that this is a very common issue they have seen on the hood/ over the engine. Yet, there is nothing they can do, I must contact GM. How is it possible that this is a know issue and there is no resolution. My car is just over four years old! My 10 year old Ford Expedition's paint looked close to brand new compared to this!!! Does anyone have any advice or recommendations? CLASS Action lawsuit?????
  9. My 2015 Silverado 1500 4x4 crew cab has about 110000 miles on it. It just started having an issue that I cannot seem to fix. The engine stays running when I turn the key to the off position and remove it. The accessories turn off normally and the RAP seems to be working. Meaning the radio and things turn off when I open the door....this truck is all stuck with the exception of a light bar. I’ve already pulled the light bar fuse at the battery hookup to see if that had anything to do with it and it made no change. Any ideas? Thanks 64187634141__38D880EE-87ED-4441-B214-B90E348CB1F8.MOV
  10. Hey guys so I did a 2019 Frontend Conversion to my 2015 Denali, with the Ram-Air style hood..... But trying to find a wire harness that converts from 2015 to the new lights, well that's easier said then done. So I was given this site by a friend that did this conversion to his truck.... I highly recommend this site, as they use GM plugs & the wires are all as good or better than stock..... Nothing wrong with that in my book. Check them out, they have E-mail if u have any questions & in my experience they get back to u in like an hour or less...... These harness are truly "Plug & Play". No cutting any wires, no guess work, all that is done for u.... They have the schematics for all the years & work off of them to make sure everything is correct.... Plus they check everyone before shipment..... Pic of my Denali, before & after. Their website also include. https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/14-18-sierra-p-p-harnesses
  11. So I've tuned my truck with and it has made a difference from what I can tell. A couple of questions, however. 1. Is there any way to truly fix the hard downshift from 3-2 and what I call lagging going from 2-3 under acceleration? I installed the 91 octane tune, disabled AFM, speed limiter and changed the shift points from 2-3. It seems like the shift point pressure is too much. The RPM's spike when i'm easy on the throttle after a stop. 2. There is an option to change the axle ratio via the tuner which I thought was impossible because the axle is ratio is mechanically fixed, yes? I think I have the 3.23 but I am not 100% sure 3. Side note, I have an Air Raid intake tube, k&n filter, installed a catch can and did a muffler delete. I took out the flapper valve out as well. Truck runs and performs better (sounds awesome too). When I go to pass cars on the highway, I can easily break 100 and you can tell the engine still has a lot left. I truly believe that this truck's engine life has been extended greatly after disabling AFM. Thanks guys.
  12. Looking for input and pictures. considering 4" BDS lift for my 2015 Silverado 4WD. trying to confirm fitment, track width impact and need or no need for front spacers. Conflicting info as far as i can tell. 4" BDS widens track width 1.5" on each side some say stock 20X9 +27 wheels can fit 33X12.50 no problem others say you need a 1/2" spacer in front or rub on UCA. Does it fit, an direct experience or pics showing how much wheels with this offset poke out from fender?
  13. So i had a dead battery the other day i went to take out the battery and get it charged because they told me it was still good, so when i put the battery back on the truck and went to start it the screen would stay black . I have tried disconnecting the battery and connecting it back (negative first then positive) , i have tried taking the fuse in and out for the radio, and i have tried moving the connections under the cabin filter. Please help thank you
  14. What's up everyone, I am new to the truck scene and in need of some help. I own a 2015 Silverado LT / RWD and have plans to make it into a somewhat of a pre runner. The question I have is, I am looking for some good suspension to be able to fit some 37" tires. I am currently running Pro Comp 8" lift kit (not too specific as truck came that way) but I am looking for something better as the ride is to stiff for my liking and also looking for something lower for that pre-runner look. Thanks and hopefully I can get some help from you veterans!
  15. So ive been seeing the conversion on 08-13 Sierras , and very popular on Silverados even the 14-16 conversions. On feb 1 some jack ass cut me off and hit my front bumper and fender , lucky for him i was already looking into doing a 2018 denali headlight conversion with the gen5 wiring harness and 2015 HD front bumper with 2500 all terrain grille To keep the theme going. As I researched could not find anything on the 2014-2018 sierras being converted to HD , all the guys i saw on IG with them had shops or buddys do them. Some guys welded either the 1500 or 2500 brackets lower ,enlogated the holes lower, redrilled , some had no gap -some liked oem gap between the grille/fenders. I did find two guys I kept intouch with they were a lot of help. One sent me pictures on how to re-drill the stock bumper brackets lower and cut some parts off it to clear the bumper , the other told me 1/2 above the existing holes . I took it upon myself to source a complete front bumper from ebay with everything $750 with shipping all i have to do is paint it , found a all terrain grille on ebay for $300 , had to buy the 2500 bumper guides and 2500 bumper fillers no luck on hood yet.while the parts arrived i bought the 2018 denali lights from fankie on here and the harness from gen5 easy bolt on by the way. When all the parts arrived i grabbed my grinder and drill . To start i took the 15torque head screws and 7mm from the sides of the wheel wells , took the 12 plastic clips from the upper cover , removed the 4 top 10mm bolts ,pulled off the bumper filler pieces between the grille and bumper , exposing the 10mm 4 bottom grille bolts , then removed the grille. Gaining access to the 4 18mm bolts that hold the bumper on the brackets, i loosened but did not remove till i went under the front bumper and removed the 2 outter 15mm bolts that hold the bottom of the bumper , i loosened the inner 15mm bolts but did not remove , once that was done i removed all 18mm bolts holding the bumper and took it off . Once off the stock 1500 bumper brackets have 3 15mm bolts in a triangle pattern, i removed all 6 and removed the tow hooks , the tow hooks will be eliminated from this . Once i had the brackets off i measured 1/2 inch above each hole . Now this is important if you want oem gap like myself i drilled a hole slightly bigger than the bolt going threw at the center of that 1/2 mark . If you dont want gap id suggest drilling under the 1/2 mark and possibly enlongating that hole down wards for adjustment. By drilling the hole a 1/2 inch higher it drops the bracket to clear the 2500 grille . In addition to redrilling the bracket you have to cut an L shape on top right next to the top bolt that the bracket has , i actually cut the bottom of the bracket and eliminated the bottom slot for the second 18mm hole because i was having issues lining up , ended up not being the problem , i found that out of the 6 15mm bracket bolts you only use 4 the top and inside 15mm the outter 15mm that completes the triangle actually hits the hd front bumper and it sags in the back ,so removing levels the bumper flush , i tried grinding the head down and still no luck removing was the fix. With the bumper off , you want to remove the 1500 bumper guides 3(7mm) bolts rachet wrench works best and socket aswell , install the 2500 bumper guides with same bolts same place these support and clip on to the new 2500 bumper filler pieces under headlights which youll have to buy . They clip and slide right on , the two bottom outter 10mm bolts that held the old grille will hold these in place and the other two 10mm in the middle from the old grille will be eliminated. See pictures.To finish securing the bumper filler and guides you have to screw the 7mm and 15 torque screws by fender trim , you will either have to buy the 2500 or 18 fender trim pieces or just trim yours roughly enough to bolt on the remark to trim perfectly and level like i did cant even tell .So Once the guides and fillers are installed grab the redrilled bumper bracket to your liking in gap, make sure its clearanced with the L shape you can rebolt bolt to frame leaving the outter 15mm off at that point you can lay the new bumper on the brackets rebolt the top 18mm bolts the bottoms wont line up -i eliminated by grinding off ,see pic -you can reconnect the lower 15mm outter brace and tighten , youll find out that it bolts right up and if you drilled at 1/2 center like me you keep that stock oem gap maybe a bit tighter gap actually but it looks good , you can then install the grille by pushing the clips in and only bolting on the the top 4 10mm bolts once done youll find that the gap is nearly perfect if you drilled at center of the 1/2 mark , some drill under the 1/2 mark to get less gap and some enlongate the hole lower towards the original hole to adjust and have no gap , but i see that as rubbing issues with paint. sorry for rambling on on the install , i will try to post all my pictures size will be limited and ill go back to proof read fix anything that i missed. Let me know waht you guys think or if you need help
  16. All parts came off 2017 Silverado LTZ 4x4 with 15K miles. Located in Los Angeles. Would prefer local pick-up but will ship if buyer pays for shipping. Front strut assembly with 2.5 in Motofab leveling kit installed (Pair) - $150 obo - SOLD OE Rear Shocks (Pair) - $50 obo OE Front Knuckles (Pair) - $50 obo
  17. I recently noticed that my brake pedal adjustment switch is not causing my pedals to adjust once the switch is activated. The height between my brake pedal and gas pedal is pretty significant. Is there a specific fuse that I should try replacing or something else I could try before bringing to a mechanic? I recently had to have my booster replaced so I am uncertain if the system was reconfigured correctly. Any help is appreciated.
  18. I Purchased my 2015 silverado z71 crew cab a couple months ago, so far i love the truck accept for one issue that shows itself every once in a while. USUALLY while turning and acceleration lightly at the same time ( lugging the motor pretty much) ill get a very noticable shudder right before the truck FINALLY decides to downshift. Has anyone had a similar issue. Im going to drives my buddies sierra tomorrow and see if i get the same shudder. I have 3600 miles on this truck so i dont think its anything to do with the "adaptive" transmission learning cycle. Ive heard a custom tune can resolve issues but i really hate to do that on this new of a truck, nor do i have anywhere within 400 miles to get it done. New to the forum guys, hope to get some responses, this is my first GM product. Switched from a 2008 tundra with 245000 trouble free miles. Hope i dont regret this purchase
  19. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  20. Problem: Truck while in 2 wheel drive will sporadically and temporarily tug briefly to the right causing a noticeable pull in the steering wheel to the right. It is only noticed between the speeds of approximately 40-50 MPH. There may be tugs at lower speeds but it is too small to be certain. The tugs do not occur over 50 MPH. The issue cannot be reproduced by the driver. There can be one tug or two to three sequential tugs. The vehicle is problem free prior and after the tugs. The force of the tugs can be mild, moderate or heavy. The tugs are noticed daily closer to the 42 MPH and 50 MPH marks in higher gear while coasting without acceleration or deceleration. For example, truck is accelerated to the 40-50 MPH range and acceleration is softened to allow for coasting in that speed range; the transmission will typically be in a lower gear, higher rpm, for a few moments until it up-shifts to the next higher gear and lower coasting rpm; the sporadic tugs are typically noticed in the lower gear, higher rpm range (1650). It seems that maybe the tugs are more prevalent during the first 5 to 10 minutes of operation from a sitting, parked position (cold engine or hot engine is irrelevant, it appears). Weather and pavement conditions do not affect the problem. Truck tracks straight when not tugging to the right. Problem started around 24,000 to 25,000 miles. Vehicle: 2015 Chevy Silverado, 2500 HD, WT, 6.0L Gas, manual 4x4, dual cab, long bed, tow package, plow package with 26,000 miles currently. Troubleshooting done so far by dealer: (1) corrective alignment; (1) alignment check after corrective alignment; tire rotation; swapping the two tires in front right to left; suspension check; front brake removal, check and lubrication. The dealer is currently stumped. Summary: Dealer has checked for radial pull, mis-alignment, tire pressure and brake issues. The closest guess that I have is from someone else's thread of: passenger side CV shaft going bad. They had what appeared to be the same tugging issues and the CV shaft did not give the tell-tale audible noises of failure. Their passenger side CV shaft just went bad, they changed it and posted that problem was mostly likely solved. I don't know though. Any thoughts??
  21. Might have a ridiculous question but I cant see the issue in theory so I am consulting the experts. I have a 2015 2500 HD 6.0 4x4. I recently had long tubes installed. First finding long tubes for this application is insane. I could not specifically find anything that guaranteed fitment for this year. I ended up with speed engineering stainless that was made for the 6.0 up to 2013 according to them it should carry over in later years which is true given the L96 has changed little to none. I had zero fitment issue with the passenger side but the left was awful...... hit the motor mount, frame, and drive shaft. I had the shop modify the header to fit......being honest he did exactly that and I'm impressed but I believe the header is leaking like nobody's buisness due to the 8 different cuts and bends he made. and makes an awful sound I do not feel like going through hell and back or spend the money on another long tube header for that side to run into the same issue...... so what if I ran a shorty 1 7/8 stainless on the driver side and a 1 7/8 long tube on the passenger side? It's off the wall but why not? If the true duals x and I have a custom tune in theory it should not be an issue right?
  22. Hey Everyone, I’ve been looking at this forum for a long time but I’m a new member. I have a 2015 GMC All-Terrain that I’m wanting to level. I’ve been trying to decide between the ready lift 2.25” with the 2” rear block or Rough Country 2.5” with the 2” rear block. I want to run 275/65r20 tires on the stock wheels. I was also considering buying a set of Hellwig helper springs, I pull a trailer a few times a month and don’t want much to any squat. So I guess my questions are: 1. Has anyone done either of those kits with that size of tire? (Please share a picture) 2. Would it be better to do an Add-A-Leaf in place of the 2” block and Hellwigs? I have looked through all the leveling kit post and haven’t really found what I was looking for yet. Thanks
  23. hey all, I have a 2015 chev Silverado 1500 with 56k on it. yesterday (5-22-2020). I was sitting in line in drive and started hearing a loud squeal. thought it was the car in front me until I shifted into park and took my foot off the break and it went away! car moved up so I shifted back into drive and moved forward and it did it again just sitting still until I put it back into park. having lots of problems trying to diagnose it. drove it again today (5-23-2020) and it did it again but not as loud. would could this be? checked the tranny fluid and it was in the normal range. any help is great as I travel for work. thanks
  24. On Sunday March 8th I was driving my Sierra home from my parents-in law. I pulled out from a stop sign and was just getting up to speed when there was a loud bang followed by loss of power, Loud ticking noise, vibrations and a sulfur smell coming from the exhaust. I knew this was lifters instantly as it Happened to me in August of 2018, a short 11,000 miles ago. So, I took it in to my dealer who ran diagnostics and gave me the news That I would need lifters replaced yet again. Unfortunately, my power train warranty ran out December of 2019, so they told me I would owe a balance of $2900+ tax. Of course I was very upset with this news as I would have imagined the dealer would talk to GM and get this issue sorted out.. I mean it was only a few months over a year and less than 11,000 miles since they replacedall of the lifters and the cam shaft. I contacted GM myself and over the course of the last week have been working with the dealer and trying to talk to someone at GM who could help. Finally I reached a “senior analyst” who is apparently the top tier of customer assistance and she told me there was absolutely nothing they can do and I am responsible for the entire bill. I insisted that GM must know about the issues this engine has By now and should acknowledge and help their clients, but she offered no help. How can I trust this engine again? I have read many posts people have put on this forum alone with this issue of failing lifters. How can anyone be expected to pay this much for an issue that is derived likely from GMs design of the afm system? Especially after we pay $50,000+ for the truck to begin with! I do not pretend to be an Mechanical or financial expert, but I feel I have been severely wronged in this situation. I have no choice but to eat this cost and sell the truck before the lifters have a chance to fail again. I would suggest anyone doing research considering buying one of these trucks (I believe Sierra and Silverado 14-18 at least) that has the active fuel management system to rethink it. I would also go out on a limb and suggest my friends with 14-15 year Silverado and Sierras (with expired powertrain warranty’s) to consider selling them before the lifters fail on yours and you are stuck with a $3000-$5000 bill. Good luck all.
  25. We are upgrading to a 2020 GMC AT4 HD 3500 and should be delivered soon. Asking $47,000 Follow this link for additional photos Facebook Marketplace ad So...Look no further for your next tow vehicle! Tow in style, tow with confidence!! This 2015 GMC Denali HD 2500 in Black Onyx has all the bells and whistles and more! She has only 52500 miles on her! This truck has been upgraded with BlueOx Gooseneck Hitch, a Second 7 Way connector in bed to secure your Gooseneck or Fifth-Wheel camper trailer wiring harness to help you tow in comfort and with confidence. It has also been upgraded with a Pop-A-Lock remote lock actuator for tailgate (unlocks tailgate when you unlock your truck). To help with those horrible GM headlights, this Denali has been upgraded with GTR Lighting Gen 5 HID 5000K headlights and Morimoto XB LED foglights...I cannot begin to tell you how much of a difference this has made! For just that little bit of oomph or MPG, this GMC has also been upgraded with the Banks Ram Air intake and Banks exhaust with chrome tip. Upgraded Shocks to BILSTEIN 5100 series shocks at 43500 miles. A Banks AutoMind programmer, is available and negotiable with purchase of this 2015 GMC Denali HD.
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