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I have done a lot of research in preparation for this mod, and there are not any how to guides on this so I figured I would make one! First things first is the parts list. Below is what is required for this mod. Window (includes regulator): 84819603 GM list is $735. I found mine new on Facebook Marketplace for $150 so do some shopping around or they can be found used on car-part.com for much less but make sure it includes the regulator. Motor and mount assembly (they are sold together): 23490454 GM List is $89.13. Perhaps can be found used cheaper but not a bad price from GM. I got mine from Ebay. Overhead Console with switch: I recommend finding this used because often junkyards leave the harness intact which you will need. I got mine on Ebay. Side benefit the Homelink is plug and play so if your truck didn't come with it like mine you now have it. Rear Window Lower Garnish Molding (Main longer piece): 22817432 Right Rear Window Garnish Molding: 22817430 *These are not required if you are handy with a Dremel Next is the harness and fuse tap I used. This is an aftermarket harness that I modified to extend the length I needed. Universal Power Window Harness: https://amzn.to/3Kz1qyK Micro Fuse Tap: https://amzn.to/47ls08b Once you have gathered your parts contact a local shop to install your window. Next you will need to figure out your trim. There are 2 ways to do this. You can buy the trim from GM or just trim a little off your factory ones. This is the route I took. Just line it up where is should fit, put some painters tape on mark it and with a carful hand just trim it and it looks just like stock. Next you’ll need to mount your motor and regulator assembly. Below are some pics I found online of a factory truck. Once that is all mounted up its time for wiring. Using the Universal Harness and factory switch is fairly easy. Here is a diagram. The GM switch is pinned out just like the aftermarket harness I linked. The factory switch and pigtail should come with the overhead panel just cut off the connector and splice it in. I routed the grounds together and self-tapped them into the truck by the fuse box. The power is ran to the fuse box (with an inline fuse) and tapped into key on power. Depending on your truck you may or may not have some of the options used to tap into. Below is a link to a great website you can poke around and figure out what fuse works best for your truck. https://www.startmycar.com/us/chevrolet/silverado-1500/info/fusebox Finally run 2 wires back to the motor. I ran mine through the headline and down the passenger rear trim. Once everything is connected you should have a working power rear window! [img]https://i.imgur.com/6dQKvXy.mp4[/img]

So I wanted a power locking tailgate on my 2019 GMC Canyon. In the past I have used Pop n Lock, but that eventually failed after about 2 years. So Instead, I started looking into how I could retrofit a 2020 power locking handle into my 2019. The video below details everything you need to do it yourself. Totally worth the effort. The OEM lock is much nicer, quieter and will "fingers crossed" last longer than two years.

I recently installed the upgraded digital dash in our LTZ that did not have it thanks to White Automotive and Media Services. The process turned out to be quite a bit more daunting than I had expected. I had found a few posts (here and another better start here) that talked about upgrading the gauge cluster, however I could not find any specific step by step instructions to gain access. Here's the obligatory "After" photo showing our new gauge cluster! With plenty of reasons for everyone to access the radio, center console, and gauge cluster, I thought a step by step tutorial would make the project immensely easier for anyone willing to do it. And trust me, If I can do it, you can do it. This "How To" is a work in progress I just wanted to get it out the before it's fully complete for anyone who wants to do this or has been struggling with how to get the specific trim pieces that are required off. I plan to do this entire process again in the near future so I can create a video showing this process and take additional photographs to fill in what I missed the first time. LAST UPDATE: Feb 21st, 2020 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools needed 7mm socket with 6 inch extension & ⅜ ratchet , plastic interior trim removal tools, T15 Torx bit Plastic Interior Trim Removal Tools are absolutely necessary. Using metal tools or screw drivers will 100% damage your interior! We used this kit from Amazon that costs around $16. <------ This is not a referral link. Just being helpful and showing as an example. Prepare by cleaning out center console, cup holders, charging area, side console storage areas, and by moving the front driver/passenger seats backwards. Using towels, create a soft area to store interior pieces during work The Steps Pry infotainment decorative chrome/painted trim away, starting at the bottom around the HVAC vents on each side, then the top. Remove square access cover directly next to the accelerator pedal. Remove the 7mm screw under the decorative cover. Place fingers in drivers side footwell console storage area and use moderate force to pull the side of the center console away. You do not have the totally remove the panel. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose towards the top and front of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side, however there is no screw to remove before the panel will snap out. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose. You do not have to totally remove the panel. With the center console lid open, use a pry tool to pop the clips holding the top of the center console area to the center console assembly. Pull up and disconnect approximately 10 clips around the cup holders, charging pad and/or storage pad area and up to directly below the radio/climate controls. Do not yank the trim too far away, there are wires connected to the bottom of this trim piece. Gently position the tray as far rearward as possible without removing the wires, or gently remove the wire connectors and place the console on your soft area. Using a pry tool, remove the thin, curved piece of trim directly under the USB/12V/120V Trailer Brake Controls. There are five clips to remove, each releasing directly towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the floor of the vehicle. Release two clips on each side then pull gently to remove the center clip. Positi on console tray (if still attached) to remove two T15 screws at bottom of infotainment/climate control unit. Unscrew top four T15 screws holding infotainment/climate control in place at top of unit. Using pry bar, pull infotainment unit away, releasing approximately 8 clips around the unit. Use caution, HVAC ducting will come out with the unit, so only pull directly out. Disconnect Unit or lean out to continue on for access to gauge cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, release the leather infotainment trim, but only along the side of the cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, remove the leather gauge cluster hood. The approximately 6 clips are released pulling straight up. Remove the fuse access panel on the driver’s side door opening. Using a T15 bit, remove the two screws holding the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit in place. Using a pry tool, pull the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit directly away from the dash. There are approximately 8 clips holding it in place. Unscrew three 7mm screws holding the front cluster trim piece in place. Using your hands, pry the cluster trim piece away from behind the steering wheel, including the trim piece on the top of the steering wheel column that is attached. Remove four 7mm screws holding gauge cluster in place. For 2019 trucks, slide red locking tab and lift cam lock to remove cluster harness. Reverse steps to reassemble. Please comment with any suggestions, edits, or comments. I'd like this to be as helpful as possible.

I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado LTZ. Due to the cold weather here in WY I am a big fan of the remote start. I started my truck using the phone app the other night and when I went out to the vehicle all my windows were rolled down. I researched online and it seems that some vehicles have a feature that allows you to roll down all the windows from the key fob. I checked my vehicle settings under My Link and saw that this option was enabled. The problem that I have is that I cannot replicate what I did to get this to work. My question is how do I use my phone, my key fob or combination of both to roll down the windows? My fear is that if I leave this setting enabled I might accidentally roll my windows down in a rain or snowstorm.

By: Zane Merva & Matt Blouin GM-Trucks.com Staff Copyright 2015 Parts & Tools Needed One (1) 11mm fine thread bolt with nut One foot of 12-gauge wire Two (2) crimpable eye fittings Shrink wrap Zip ties Socket Set Pliers Wire stripper/Cutters Estimated price: $12.00 Time to complete: 30 minutes What is It? The relocation of the antenna from stock placement to under the hood for a cleaner look. Skill Level Beginner Warnings and Precautions This relocation will reduce your ability to pick up AM/FM signals. We performed this modification for aesthetic purposes only. OnStar and SirusXM reception will not be affected. Performed On 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab SLT Step One The first step in any project is to prepare your work space. Gather the required tools and safety equipment. Park your vehicle in a place where you have adequate light and you won't have to move it for the duration of the project. Step Two Unscrew and remove the antenna with a small wrench or pliers. Use a rag or paper towel to protect the antenna and prevent scratching the paint in case you want to return it to stock in the future. Step Three Carefully remove plastic trim panel that covers antenna stud. You can pull this piece off with your hands but don’t use too much force or you risk breaking it. Step Four Cut a section of 12-gauge wire approximately one foot in length. Strip about a quarter of an inch off each end. Place two sections of shrink wrap on the wire then crimp the eye-terminal onto the ends of the wire. Heat the shrink wrap to ensure proper seal. Step Five Place the eye-terminal on the 11mm bolt and thread it into the open end of the antenna and tighten down with socket wrench and hold antenna in position with pliers, again being careful not to scratch paint off. Step Six Place antenna under hood in desired location. We chose to relocate under the fender pinch rail next to the battery and intake. Step Seven Route wire up to antenna post being careful to avoid areas where it may pinch. Place the eye-terminal over the post and tighten down with the 11mm bolt. Step Eight Secure antenna with zip ties making sure it is tight to mounting point so it will not move around under rough conditions. Step Nine Place plastic trim panel back over antenna area. Optionally, cover hole with rubber plug, cap, or tape. We've got various sized plugs on order and will update this article if we can find a good fit to cover the left over hole. Conclusion This is an easy and cheap modification to clean up the exterior look of your pickup. Our 2011 Sierra looks way more modern without the ugly mast poking out of the hood. The downside to relocating our antenna is greatly reduced reception. That said, we live in a rural area where reception wasn't great to begin with. Stronger signals in urban areas still work but range you can travel from the station will be limited. Since we rarely use the radio and almost always stream music, this isn't an issue for us.