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So I wanted a power locking tailgate on my 2019 GMC Canyon. In the past I have used Pop n Lock, but that eventually failed after about 2 years. So Instead, I started looking into how I could retrofit a 2020 power locking handle into my 2019. The video below details everything you need to do it yourself. Totally worth the effort. The OEM lock is much nicer, quieter and will "fingers crossed" last longer than two years.

I recently installed the upgraded digital dash in our LTZ that did not have it thanks to White Automotive and Media Services. The process turned out to be quite a bit more daunting than I had expected. I had found a few posts (here and another better start here) that talked about upgrading the gauge cluster, however I could not find any specific step by step instructions to gain access. Here's the obligatory "After" photo showing our new gauge cluster! With plenty of reasons for everyone to access the radio, center console, and gauge cluster, I thought a step by step tutorial would make the project immensely easier for anyone willing to do it. And trust me, If I can do it, you can do it. This "How To" is a work in progress I just wanted to get it out the before it's fully complete for anyone who wants to do this or has been struggling with how to get the specific trim pieces that are required off. I plan to do this entire process again in the near future so I can create a video showing this process and take additional photographs to fill in what I missed the first time. LAST UPDATE: Feb 21st, 2020 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools needed 7mm socket with 6 inch extension & ⅜ ratchet , plastic interior trim removal tools, T15 Torx bit Plastic Interior Trim Removal Tools are absolutely necessary. Using metal tools or screw drivers will 100% damage your interior! We used this kit from Amazon that costs around $16. <------ This is not a referral link. Just being helpful and showing as an example. Prepare by cleaning out center console, cup holders, charging area, side console storage areas, and by moving the front driver/passenger seats backwards. Using towels, create a soft area to store interior pieces during work The Steps Pry infotainment decorative chrome/painted trim away, starting at the bottom around the HVAC vents on each side, then the top. Remove square access cover directly next to the accelerator pedal. Remove the 7mm screw under the decorative cover. Place fingers in drivers side footwell console storage area and use moderate force to pull the side of the center console away. You do not have the totally remove the panel. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose towards the top and front of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side, however there is no screw to remove before the panel will snap out. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose. You do not have to totally remove the panel. With the center console lid open, use a pry tool to pop the clips holding the top of the center console area to the center console assembly. Pull up and disconnect approximately 10 clips around the cup holders, charging pad and/or storage pad area and up to directly below the radio/climate controls. Do not yank the trim too far away, there are wires connected to the bottom of this trim piece. Gently position the tray as far rearward as possible without removing the wires, or gently remove the wire connectors and place the console on your soft area. Using a pry tool, remove the thin, curved piece of trim directly under the USB/12V/120V Trailer Brake Controls. There are five clips to remove, each releasing directly towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the floor of the vehicle. Release two clips on each side then pull gently to remove the center clip. Positi on console tray (if still attached) to remove two T15 screws at bottom of infotainment/climate control unit. Unscrew top four T15 screws holding infotainment/climate control in place at top of unit. Using pry bar, pull infotainment unit away, releasing approximately 8 clips around the unit. Use caution, HVAC ducting will come out with the unit, so only pull directly out. Disconnect Unit or lean out to continue on for access to gauge cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, release the leather infotainment trim, but only along the side of the cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, remove the leather gauge cluster hood. The approximately 6 clips are released pulling straight up. Remove the fuse access panel on the driver’s side door opening. Using a T15 bit, remove the two screws holding the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit in place. Using a pry tool, pull the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit directly away from the dash. There are approximately 8 clips holding it in place. Unscrew three 7mm screws holding the front cluster trim piece in place. Using your hands, pry the cluster trim piece away from behind the steering wheel, including the trim piece on the top of the steering wheel column that is attached. Remove four 7mm screws holding gauge cluster in place. For 2019 trucks, slide red locking tab and lift cam lock to remove cluster harness. Reverse steps to reassemble. Please comment with any suggestions, edits, or comments. I'd like this to be as helpful as possible.

I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado LTZ. Due to the cold weather here in WY I am a big fan of the remote start. I started my truck using the phone app the other night and when I went out to the vehicle all my windows were rolled down. I researched online and it seems that some vehicles have a feature that allows you to roll down all the windows from the key fob. I checked my vehicle settings under My Link and saw that this option was enabled. The problem that I have is that I cannot replicate what I did to get this to work. My question is how do I use my phone, my key fob or combination of both to roll down the windows? My fear is that if I leave this setting enabled I might accidentally roll my windows down in a rain or snowstorm.

By: Zane Merva & Matt Blouin GM-Trucks.com Staff Copyright 2015 Parts & Tools Needed One (1) 11mm fine thread bolt with nut One foot of 12-gauge wire Two (2) crimpable eye fittings Shrink wrap Zip ties Socket Set Pliers Wire stripper/Cutters Estimated price: $12.00 Time to complete: 30 minutes What is It? The relocation of the antenna from stock placement to under the hood for a cleaner look. Skill Level Beginner Warnings and Precautions This relocation will reduce your ability to pick up AM/FM signals. We performed this modification for aesthetic purposes only. OnStar and SirusXM reception will not be affected. Performed On 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab SLT Step One The first step in any project is to prepare your work space. Gather the required tools and safety equipment. Park your vehicle in a place where you have adequate light and you won't have to move it for the duration of the project. Step Two Unscrew and remove the antenna with a small wrench or pliers. Use a rag or paper towel to protect the antenna and prevent scratching the paint in case you want to return it to stock in the future. Step Three Carefully remove plastic trim panel that covers antenna stud. You can pull this piece off with your hands but don’t use too much force or you risk breaking it. Step Four Cut a section of 12-gauge wire approximately one foot in length. Strip about a quarter of an inch off each end. Place two sections of shrink wrap on the wire then crimp the eye-terminal onto the ends of the wire. Heat the shrink wrap to ensure proper seal. Step Five Place the eye-terminal on the 11mm bolt and thread it into the open end of the antenna and tighten down with socket wrench and hold antenna in position with pliers, again being careful not to scratch paint off. Step Six Place antenna under hood in desired location. We chose to relocate under the fender pinch rail next to the battery and intake. Step Seven Route wire up to antenna post being careful to avoid areas where it may pinch. Place the eye-terminal over the post and tighten down with the 11mm bolt. Step Eight Secure antenna with zip ties making sure it is tight to mounting point so it will not move around under rough conditions. Step Nine Place plastic trim panel back over antenna area. Optionally, cover hole with rubber plug, cap, or tape. We've got various sized plugs on order and will update this article if we can find a good fit to cover the left over hole. Conclusion This is an easy and cheap modification to clean up the exterior look of your pickup. Our 2011 Sierra looks way more modern without the ugly mast poking out of the hood. The downside to relocating our antenna is greatly reduced reception. That said, we live in a rural area where reception wasn't great to begin with. Stronger signals in urban areas still work but range you can travel from the station will be limited. Since we rarely use the radio and almost always stream music, this isn't an issue for us.

Hey guys, I made a quick video on how to pull the front emblem off a Colorado. I found another video that was really complicated and involved removing the screws on the plastic shroud. Took them 10 minutes! This can be done with a simple plastic pry tool, and about 1 minute of your time. I plan on doing the rear emblem when I can clean the truck up, it's full of salt and road grime right now.

Two easy ways to turn off the engine auto start system in the Chevrolet Silverado 1500 since they do not give you an off switch here's the video link let me know if you have any questions

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuL_8RSmwJc?version=3&hl=en_US Here we are upgrading a cloth model 2014 GMC Sierra to Factory Navigation. This is a complete integration including full voice recognition features and communication with the display in the instrument cluster.

By: Zane Merva & Matt Blouin Copyright 2015 - GM-Trucks.com The colder weather of winter can be punishing on your pickup’s battery. If your truck doesn't start with the same enthusiasm this spring as it did last fall, your battery is to blame. After two months of temperatures regularly below zero-degrees Fahrenheit, the stock battery in our Sierra was in rough shape. Even leaving a cell-phone charger plugged in overnight was too much for our old battery to handle. Luckily, changing your battery is one of the easiest pieces of maintenance to perform on your Silverado or Sierra. You can buy a new battery at any auto parts store and most large box stores. Consult with a compatibility chart or sales associate to ensure you purchase a compatible battery. Most newer Silverado and Sierra take a "Group 78" style battery. Aside from the correct type, it’s important to note the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) of your stock battery and buy a new battery that is at least equivalent. If you live in a cold region or have hooked up accessories to your battery, getting a higher CCA-rated battery is a great idea. Never buy a battery that is smaller or has a CCA rating that is lower than stock. Tools needed 13mm socket (battery hold down) 10mm socket (battery cables) ½-in socket (body bracing) 6-in socket extension Safety Glasses Mechanic’s Gloves Applicable Vehicles 2007-2015+ Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra 1500 Time required 10-15 minutes Estimated Cost $150-175 depending on battery, not including refundable core charge Skills Required Beginner Technical Ability Able to lift 50lbs over shoulder height Warnings and Precautions Never allow a tool to connect the two battery terminals together Step One - Prepare The first step in any project is to prepare your work space. Gather the required tools and safety equipment. Park your vehicle in a place where you have adequate light and you won't have to move it for the duration of the project. Some vehicles have security codes or radio settings that need to be noted before disconnecting vehicle power. Step Two - Unscrew the engine bay bracing The battery in the older 2007-2013 body styles and newer 2014+ body styles are surrounded by bracing. While the designs are different, all model years require a 1/2-inch socket to remove the bolts. Remove the bracing and set aside in a safe place. Step Three - Remove the battery hold down The battery is held in place by a single 13mm bolt and block. Simply unscrew the hold-down using a socket and the 6-inch extension, Set aside in a safe place. Step Four - Disconnect the old battery Now, disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket. Be careful to remove the negative terminal first and never allow the positive and negative wires or terminals to touch. Step Five - Switch the old and new battery The battery weights around 40lbs, so make sure you are comfortable lifting this much weight to around shoulder height. Step Six - Reassemble in reverse order Simply reattach your battery, battery hold down, and engine bay bracing in the reverse order. Step Seven - Restore settings Replacing the battery will most likely reset your pickup’s clock, radio favorites and memory seat settings that you may have customized. Take a moment before you hit the road again to restore these settings in a safe place while parked.

I have a leak that I could not find where it was exactly coming from, the only thing I could see is that it was running down the starter so after reading some of you guys' comments about think it could be a freeze plug I decided to get under the truck today and take the starter out to see if I could find something out and sure enough the freeze plug right behind the starter was leaking, I tried to tap on one side of it with a crew driver so that section could bend in and make the other side pop out but instead the screwdriver made a hole and as I moved the screwdriver to another section of it, it just kept on making the hole biggerso now its halfway busted but no signs of it coming one bit loose. How do I get it out ? Any help would be really appreciated thanks

Very quick video showing how to replace your cabin air filter in the following vehicles: 2014, 2015, 2016, and 2017 Chevrolet Silverado, GMC Sierra 2015, 2016, and 2017, Chevrolet Tahoe, and Suburban GMC Yukon and Yukon XL Cadillac Escalade ACDelco CF188 GM Original Equipment Cabin Air Filter GM (23281440) Purchase here: http://amzn.to/2iJKyaZs

The Sundae Drive does an in-depth video showing how to install an oil catch can for a 2014 Silverado 5.3L. What are the benefits of an oil catch can? Well if you visit the follwing sites you can read all about the benefits and importance of running an oil catch can. Catch cans are NOT ONLY for turbo/supercharger applications. They can be very beneficial for people with naturally aspirated setups. https://www.redline-motorworks.com/bl... http://oilcatchcan.com/oil-catch-can-... Purpose of your Stock PCV System: The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system is designed to regulate and remove fumes from the engine crankcase and to alleviate crankcase pressure which could cause oil leaks or seal damage. The PCV system routes crankcase fumes into the intake manifold where they can be burned to eliminate harmful emissions into the atmosphere. The PCV valve controls the amount of crankcase flow volume depending on the engine's load. With large throttle openings (high engine loads), the more blow-by gases are produced, and the more the PCV system flows oil vapor into the intake manifold. A small amount of that ignited mixture leaks past the piston rings and ends up in the crankcase. This leakage is often referred to a "blow-by" or leakage past the pistons. Some of the oil mist and other products settle along the engine intake and over time form a "gunk". Our oil catch can collect the oil mist and condensed the fuel vapors while allowing "cleaner" gasses to pass back into the intake manifold. To pick up a Catch Can of your own go check out: http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/ Here is the link for the E2 Catch itself and a diagram showing how it works! http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/e2...

Wanted to share a video of how to install LED Switchbacks on a 2015-2017 Colorado. Enjoy

First off, I'd like to say I am in no way sponsored by any companies or brands represented in this write up. It is simply a 3rd party review and how to. Below are a couple of videos I wanted to share in here on how to install an HID kit for a 2014/2015 Sierra (1500's, it may work on some 2015 2500HD's, but YMMV). I am using a kit made by The Retrofit Source. They specially made this kit with K2 1500 Sierra's in mind. It comes complete with: -Choice of 35watt or 55watt ballasts, high quality Morimoto pieces. I am using 35watt units. -Choice of 3000k, 4500k, 5000k, 6000k HID bulbs (also include alcohol wipes to clean bulbs before installation, nice touch) --- I used a 4500K bulb, which is classified as "warm white" (slightly white-blue at startup, but after about 15-20 seconds becomes the "warm white" color) -Relay Harness w/ built in fuse. This harness has nice ring connectors to connect to battery + and - -Canbus harness (error code eliminator) -Igniter harness x2 -ballasts to bulb harness w/ rubber grommet to seal headlight dust covers. x2 Overall, i thought the kit was very well constructed. High quality braided wiring, all shrink wrapped, potted electronics, waterproof connectors. All A+ quality. I got this kit for $170 off their website, but if you make an account, and load the kit into your cart, then leave it a few days, they will send you a coupon code for 10% off. Not a bad deal IMHO. Link to the Sellers website https://www.theretrofitsource.com/ Link to the specific kit https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-hid-system-sierra-low-beam.html?carDisplay=2014+GMC+Sierra++%28Projectors%29&preselect=4.1.3-HARN-RELAY-9012%2CXB-BALLAST-35%2C5.3.3-XB3-9012-45 It does require you drill a hole in the dust covers to get the wires to pass through, but it is not hard and can be done with a cordless drill and a 7/8" hole bit. First video is a review of the kit by itself: This next video is the actual installation of the kit And this final video is how to properly aim your headlights (made a few months ago before I had HID's but the concept is the same) Enjoy. Hopefully these videos help some folks out! FINAL VERDICT -Good upgrade in light output using stock projectors. Not very hard to install, but I will still rate it 3.5/5 on a scale of difficulty. 5 being hardest. Just because it requires some work with electronics, which not everyone is comfortable doing. I am very happy with the end result. There is a lot more clean white light out on the road and I can see a lot better on dark roads. Properly aimed, I should not be blinding any other drivers. Post below with questions.

Hi all, I have an 09 Silverado LT z71 extra can short bed that is a non Bose. I found a like new navigation head unit and need to find out if I can do the upgraded oem nav on a LT. I've read that a dealer may have to program the vin into the head unit. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'd hate to have hundreds invested in a paper weight. Thank you

My front speakers ( non bose) were really sounding BAD with the bass set anywhere but minimum. I took them out to find this. So I ordered some kenwood kfc-p709ps from amazon for $65. I removed the door panel and removed the stock speaker assembly. The speaker and mount assembly is released at the top by pressing down on the tab and pulling assembly out. Then remove the grill from the door panel. Do this by straightening the tabs on the back side then the grill pulls off the front. I left the stock tweeter on the panel and drilled out the factory tweeter mount from the front side. you don't need to remove the nut to do this. This pic shows the drilled out mount. Then cut off the tab located next to my thumb in this pic. Then from the front side, push the threaded stud on the new tweeter thru the hole drilled earlier and attach with wing nut provided with speakers. I fed the wires from front to rear around the edge of factory tweeter. I used the mounting ring provided with speakers and removed the three longest tabs from it. They are still on the ring in the next pic. I used the crossover harness also provided, It is the harness hanging loose in the pic. the actual crossover is in the shrink tubing. I also bought the wiring pigtail from amazon to make connections easier. The package they came in had a chart with all the wire harness color codes printed on it. Nice touch. There are large and small connectors in the harnesses so you cant reverse the wires accidently. The black and white harness is the pig tail. I centered the woofer in the factory opening and drilled four holes and used screws provided. I forgot to reinstall the grill but got a good pic of how the finished mounting looks. All I can say about the finished results is OMG!! the sound is better than expected. For a stock system, this rocks.

Alright I did some digging around the site and did not see what I'm looking for. I just bought a 2014 GMC Sierra crew cab and want to put some nerf bars on it. After my shopping I finally decided on the CSI brand 4 inch ovals in black. I looked on their website and they only show part numbers up to 2013. They replied to an e-mail I sent and said they would fit my 2014. So I ordered them, they came in, I installed them. Here's where the problem is. They went up easy and I finished around sun down. I then went out for the night and they were great. Woke up the next morning to admire my work and they were crooked. I must not have stepped back far enough from the truck the night before to see it. They are not parallel with the bottom of the cab. The front is about 3 inches lower than the back and it looks stupid. I sent another e-mail to CSI and their response was I must have the brackets in the wrong place. So I checked. I didn't. They are all clearly stamped. So off come the nerf bars until I find a fix. Has anyone else hung these from their truck? And did you have any issues. The CSI part number is WE1009B

I have a 2002 Yukon XL 1500. Last night, coming home from work, I noticed the truck having difficulty changing gears just within a few hundred yards of home; I didn't think much of it and went in the house. This morning on the way to work, I had the same difficulty until the truck stopped completely and would not move. This evening after work (I took my son's car to work), I noticed the entire right (passinger) side of the engine compartment sprayed down with ATF. I finally found the culprit: the line coming from the transmission between the right headlight and the radiator was disconnected. The area is very cramped and lighting was an issue so I am not sure what I think I see is actually what is there. The knobbed end of the steel tube was exposed and there was some sort of plastic piece was behind it. I assumed that the plastic piece was a nut of some sort, but it did seem to have threads. I tried repeatedly to thread the plastic piece and repeatedly failed. Questions: 1) What is the best way to expose the area so there is some room to work in? I can barely reach the area after removing the plastic cowl covering the radiator. 2) Is there threads on the plastic piece or how is the steel tube connected to the radiator? 3) How much ATF does the transmission hold? 4) I noticed ATF cooling lines advertised; does the fact that it seperated indicate a need for replacement and how difficult is that?

Please share your best valve cover and oil pan gasket replacement videos and/or tips. I want to start researching this process as I've never done something this serious, and I'm getting extremely tired of the oil leaks on my truck. Tyia