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Cluster will work (1/10 times from start up) for about 15 minutes until all gauges drop and other indicator lights come on. Truck was working fine with no issues until a few weeks after my local dealer replaced the fuse junction box. (Check engine light was not showing up when I turned the key so would not pass inspection). Recently had a local shop try and fix it with a used ebay cluster I bought but that cluster didn't work either. After I picked up my truck, the cluster worked fine for 2 weeks no issues then back to acting up like before. Is there something that is shorting or coming loose that I should check? Today leaving work, cluster was working until I hit my high beams and without skipping a beat, gauges dropped. PHOTOS: truck is being driven. Thank you in advance.

I recently installed the upgraded digital dash in our LTZ that did not have it thanks to White Automotive and Media Services. The process turned out to be quite a bit more daunting than I had expected. I had found a few posts (here and another better start here) that talked about upgrading the gauge cluster, however I could not find any specific step by step instructions to gain access. Here's the obligatory "After" photo showing our new gauge cluster! With plenty of reasons for everyone to access the radio, center console, and gauge cluster, I thought a step by step tutorial would make the project immensely easier for anyone willing to do it. And trust me, If I can do it, you can do it. This "How To" is a work in progress I just wanted to get it out the before it's fully complete for anyone who wants to do this or has been struggling with how to get the specific trim pieces that are required off. I plan to do this entire process again in the near future so I can create a video showing this process and take additional photographs to fill in what I missed the first time. LAST UPDATE: Feb 21st, 2020 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools needed 7mm socket with 6 inch extension & ⅜ ratchet , plastic interior trim removal tools, T15 Torx bit Plastic Interior Trim Removal Tools are absolutely necessary. Using metal tools or screw drivers will 100% damage your interior! We used this kit from Amazon that costs around $16. <------ This is not a referral link. Just being helpful and showing as an example. Prepare by cleaning out center console, cup holders, charging area, side console storage areas, and by moving the front driver/passenger seats backwards. Using towels, create a soft area to store interior pieces during work The Steps Pry infotainment decorative chrome/painted trim away, starting at the bottom around the HVAC vents on each side, then the top. Remove square access cover directly next to the accelerator pedal. Remove the 7mm screw under the decorative cover. Place fingers in drivers side footwell console storage area and use moderate force to pull the side of the center console away. You do not have the totally remove the panel. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose towards the top and front of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side, however there is no screw to remove before the panel will snap out. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose. You do not have to totally remove the panel. With the center console lid open, use a pry tool to pop the clips holding the top of the center console area to the center console assembly. Pull up and disconnect approximately 10 clips around the cup holders, charging pad and/or storage pad area and up to directly below the radio/climate controls. Do not yank the trim too far away, there are wires connected to the bottom of this trim piece. Gently position the tray as far rearward as possible without removing the wires, or gently remove the wire connectors and place the console on your soft area. Using a pry tool, remove the thin, curved piece of trim directly under the USB/12V/120V Trailer Brake Controls. There are five clips to remove, each releasing directly towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the floor of the vehicle. Release two clips on each side then pull gently to remove the center clip. Positi on console tray (if still attached) to remove two T15 screws at bottom of infotainment/climate control unit. Unscrew top four T15 screws holding infotainment/climate control in place at top of unit. Using pry bar, pull infotainment unit away, releasing approximately 8 clips around the unit. Use caution, HVAC ducting will come out with the unit, so only pull directly out. Disconnect Unit or lean out to continue on for access to gauge cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, release the leather infotainment trim, but only along the side of the cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, remove the leather gauge cluster hood. The approximately 6 clips are released pulling straight up. Remove the fuse access panel on the driver’s side door opening. Using a T15 bit, remove the two screws holding the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit in place. Using a pry tool, pull the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit directly away from the dash. There are approximately 8 clips holding it in place. Unscrew three 7mm screws holding the front cluster trim piece in place. Using your hands, pry the cluster trim piece away from behind the steering wheel, including the trim piece on the top of the steering wheel column that is attached. Remove four 7mm screws holding gauge cluster in place. For 2019 trucks, slide red locking tab and lift cam lock to remove cluster harness. Reverse steps to reassemble. Please comment with any suggestions, edits, or comments. I'd like this to be as helpful as possible.

My voltage and temp gauges don't work in my truck. Sometimes they move when I turn the key to the on position but when the truck turns on, the temp slowly goes down to 0 if it's hot and if cold it does nothing. The voltage gauge worked awhile back registering 12v. But just went off all of a sudden. What could I look for as the problem?

My voltage and temp gauges don't work in my truck. Sometimes they move when I turn the key to the on position but when the truck turns on, the temp slowly goes down to 0 if it's hot and if cold it does nothing. The voltage gauge worked awhile back registering 12. But just went off all of a sudden. What could I look for as the problem?

Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher - GM-Trucks.com Februrary 7th, 2019 Yesterday we brought you an exclusive look at the new logo for the 2020 C8 Corvette in a digital high-resolution format. Although the logo had been previously rendered through a leaked key fob passing through FCC certification, GM-Trucks.com gave you the very first official version of the emblem in digital format. Today, we've got part two and it's even better: A brand new, never before seen, blacked out version of the 2020 Corvette's iconic emblem The corresponding gauge cluster startup animation Your first look at the brand new Corvette script First things first, what's a startup animation? Well, these days a lot of new GM products use an LCD display in the gauge cluster, or even use a display as the entire gauge cluster. The C7 Corvette (and now C8) uses a large 8-ish inch screen for most of the gauge cluster. When you open the door, the gauge cluster "starts up" showing an animation, usually with the Chevrolet logo or in this case the Corvette's logo and script. Our 2019 Silverado LTZ has a Chevy Logo animate on it's 4 inch gauge cluster display. This is a C7's Gauge Cluster. See that huge screen? The C8 is going to have a variation of that. Maybe the same, maybe larger. Interesting to note, this crossed flags emblem is not the same as the logo we leaked yesterday. Instead of a chrome surround it sports a blacked out trim. It looks mean, nasty, and one may presume it just may be destined for a performance variant of the Corvette. Is this the emblem for the rumored Zora model? We won't comment specifically on how we obtained this animation. We can say it was collected from publicly available file by a third party and passed along to us. This is the gauge cluster start up animation for the up-level (Zora?) 2020 C8 Corvette Here's a closer look at that blacked out emblem variation And here's a closer look at the 2020 Corvette Logo Script- which has evolved from it's C7 form Here's the C7 logo and script for comparison What do you think? Are you excited for the Corvette to go mid-engine? Do you think Chevy's graphical updates to the logo and script are living up to the hype of the 2020 Corvette?

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone on here has swapped clusters in Canada. Thinking about doing this and have read lots of threads about it on this Forum, however couldn't find anything really about the guys who have done it in Canada ( where to purchase other than dealer, where they had them programmed, clusters in KM/H etc etc ). The denali style cluster would be going into a 2017 GMC Sierra with the blue backlighting. Thanks!

I've had everything replaced and repaired physically to my 1998 Silverado such as fuel pump, tank, sending unit. My fuel gauge is still vibrating (fluttering.) I pulled my cluster out as I want to try and replace the stepper motor for the fuel gauge, however when I pulled the cluster out, I am not comfortable trying to pull the the actual panel out from the gauges itself. Seems as if it is glued down somehow. Any info or ideas on what to do next will be much appreciated, thanks.

I joined this forum while researching an issue I was having with my 2008 Sierra Denali. It has 103,000 miles While driving the gauges would sweep and the radio (audio) would go off momentarily. When the gauges came back up to normal and the audio came back on the air bag light would be on and stay on until the next time the truck was turned off. All would be normal again after the truck was started until it happened again. At first it was once every couple of months but at the end it would be every couple minutes. There were a couple of theories as to what the problem was including the problem caused by the insulating pad above the SDM and an issue with the BCM. I had the recall done for the insulating pad above the SDM and a dealership checked out the SDM and BCM. Both were functioning correctly. I was told at this time that my battery cables had high resistance and this was the cause of my issue. (99.9% sure) Positive cable to the starter, negative cable to engine block and the positive cable from the battery to the fuse box were replacced. This did absolutely nothing. Needless to say I returned the truck to the dealership. This time my issue was taken more seriously and I was given a loaner vehicle so they could take the time needed to find and correct the issue. After miles of test driving and some input from their GM tech support network, they found that there was a malfunction in the instrument cluster. This was replaced and reprogrammed. I have had no more issues.

I have a 2003 GMC yukon XL 1500 that I have had since new. it has 139750 miles and has been a great truck. Probably 4 years ago, the light that tells you whether your in P, R, N, D, 1,2,3 etc went out. Not really a big deal. Now it seems that all the gauges will go out intermittently. Everything from the Speedometer, Tach, fuel and temp gauges all went out. Next time I drove the truck, the gauges worked. This has happened on two different occasions recently. Any thoughts on what could be the issue? I noticed there was a recall out there for this problem a few years and 60,000 miles ago.

Hey guys, one of dads 07 Classic Sierra 3500 SLT Duramax trucks is having some electrical issues and was hoping you guys could give some advice. First the driver door started to not work, on n off it would not allow any power. No power windows (others worked when using their separate controls) power door lock, seat memory and heated seat do not work, as well as the mirror controls. Sometimes it would become functional again after driving for a while but it was very rare. Just yesterday dad lost everything on the dash after using the truck while his is in for front end accident repairs, only gauges that worked were the speedo and the tach. Also there were no read outs from the engine via the DIC, only thing was how much fuel he had used. Did not check if the trip counters and odo reader went out also. The odd thing is we have two of the same truck, this one is "mine" and it has less miles and built after my dads yet his has not had these issues. Neither truck is over 100,000 miles but still out of warranty due to being past 5 years. Any insight from you guys would be greatly appreciated and the cluster did work right for him on his way to work this morning which is weird.... Also when dad came home with the gauge cluster issue, he also lost all interior lights, no power door lock on any door and the stereo stayed lite up after the truck was off. No music playing just all lite up.