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Showing results for tags 'electrical issues'.
Found 5 results
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So I'm trying to do the heated/cooled seat retrofit in my 2017 silverado 1500 and I've found a lot of stuff online about how it would be a whole lot of work because of all the extra wiring that the system has, & that it would be almost impossible if you didn't have heated seats to begin with, but I don't accept that & I am determined to make it happen. I've already bought every bit of interior out of this high country which came with the heated/cooled seats, but now that it comes time to actually do the swap I realize that I probably should have done a little more research before spending this much money on this stuff because If pgamboa is correct that means I just wasted $1500, but I'm determined to prove him wrong(no offense if you happen to see this lol). So I guess My main question is, has anyone been able to do this retrofit successfully, to where the heating, cooling, and power all work as designed & so there aren't any airbag lights or other warning lights/messages on the dash? I'm a technician at a gm dealership so I have access to all the wiring diagrams and oem information that I could possibly need, but I'm a little confused as to the hard parts that I will 100% actually need,& I haven't heard of anybody actually doing this successfully with everything working as it should, so I want to make sure it's possible without wasting a whole bunch of time on it to figure it out. The other main concern that I know will need to be done for it to function properly, and the thing I'm most concerned about figuring out, is the programming aspect of it. Obviously the truck will need to be programmed in order for the system to function, but im not quite sure on how to go about doing that, especially since I'm going to be adding new modules entirely since my truck didn't have heated seats to begin with, but would there not be a way to avoid having to do that & just running power and ground to the heated/cooled seats, but still using thd factory buttons to retain the oem look? I mean their pretty much just toggle switches, so really in theory, for for the low setting heat I would think I could just install a resistor between the switch & seats, and could do away with the need for all the modules , I just wouldn't have the memory features or comfort/convince settings that I would if it were programmed correct? That is obvi a worse case scenario type situation if there's just no way to make it work with an aftermarket programmer or something. Which everyone always says something about how if you go that route & end up taking it to a dealership or something & they reprogram the bcm then it would take away all the other features, but since I work at a dealership I can make sure it never has an mdi hooked up to it. It'd be nice if gm would let you program any module to your vehicle if all the appropriate hardware was there & whatnot I really don't understand why they don't allow that, but apparently it's above my pay grade lol. But if anyone has any info om this, or better yet if angone has actually SUCCESSFULLY done this, please help ya boy out with some info! Please & thanks In advance! -
My horn is not working. Neither when I press the center of the steering wheel and when I double click the lock button on the key fob. The 15amp fuse is still good and I can hear the relay clicking every time I engage the horn. I seen a video related to this subject on YouTube and they recommended cleaning the corrosion from the prongs of the horn plug. There was a small amount of corrosion on the prongs. I used a small file, cleaner and dielectric grease and still nothing! I then took the horn out of the truck and wired it directly to a battery to verify that the horn works and it does. I'm completely stumped on what to do next. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Hey what-sup guys! New to the forum but not to GM Vehicles but this has me stumped. First I’ll say, I have searched and searched for these issues and they are all over the board, so I figured I’d start a new thread, if someone seems like this is covered in another topic, link it and I will delete this one. I will add pictures of a couple of the codes it is throwing! Stock 2014 Silverado 1500 4x4 LT non Z71, no added special packages. 125k miles. When I start the truck I get a Power Steering Assist Limited, Service ABS, and Traction control light. Amongst other things, truck runs like crap, and shifts like crap. Hooked up my neighbors snap on scanner and could not connect to the EBCM, TCM, TCCM, Power steering Control module, and a couple others such as Human Interface etc. along with no lines on the screen while backing up. It says to “center steering wheel” so I’m sure this module isn’t communicating over the GMLAN network. I’m confused by this whole thing, I’m not electrical savvy enough to be a master at it. Before it goes into the dealer next week I want to see what you guys think, I’ve covered the basics, and have read probably 6 hours worth of trial and errors. Things I have checked are as followed.. most popular G218 ground under dash speaker, no insulation so I’m good and it is tight, I’ve checked numerous other popular grounds along frame and door jam pillars, all fuses are good, battery tests good, cables seem good, Peeled the Loom back under drivers side cab, nothing seems frayed or corroded in the harness looks good, also pulled the driver and passenger kick panels and did the same. I’m seriously hoping it’s not a bunch of modules. I know these 2014s have wiring issues but I’ve never had anything this bad!!! Im more mechanical not electrical! Offer suggestions I’ll let you know if it’s been covered or not I’m sure I’ve left out some stuff. Thanks in advance.
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I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 2WD 4 door. Only cold air coming out the vents. So i pulled the glove boxes out so I could see the blend door actuator. I could see the clip wasn't connected to the actuator. So I connected to wire clip to ghe actuator, and was excited to see if maybe I had found my no heat issue. But, now my teuck won't crank. Turn the key, 1 click and nothing. Ive checked every fuse. All good. I even jumped the starter relay. The truck would turn over but wouldn't start. I'm clueless.
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Hello - I have a 2010 Suburban LT 4WD, and have narrowed down a parasitic draw to the BCM fuse on the inside fuse panel. If we don't drive the vehicle for 2+ days, I have to jump start it. Let me preface this with some facts. I've replaced the battery recently, and there is nothing plugged in to any of the accessory outlets. I have an aftermarket radio and DVD player, but they are wired correctly (DVD NOT wired to the dome light, radio uses a wiring harness adapter, so pretty certain that it is wired correctly). I've seen the TSBs about the 2007 models BCM, but this is for a 2010. Now back to the issue. At rest, after 10 minutes or so, the truck has about a 300ma draw (still relatively high - normal is somewhere around 50ma). Then, every 10 minutes or so, I get ~ 2A spike, then it drops back down to 300ma. The draw only drops when I pull the BCM fuse: down to ~ 50ma (normal). No other fuses (I tried all of them - under the hood and inside) have any effect on the draw. I've also heard some odd clicking coming from under the dash somewhere that seems to coincide with these spikes, not sure if that is related. Chevy dealer wants $300 to diagnose it, and (they say likely) $600 for a new BCM. They say flashing it wouldn't do anything. If it is definitely the BCM, I'd rather find one on ebay for much cheaper and (try to) have a shop reprogram it. Is that possible? Just wanted to reach out and see if anyone has any insight on what to try next?
