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Showing results for tags 'electrical issues'.
Found 6 results
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My horn is not working. Neither when I press the center of the steering wheel and when I double click the lock button on the key fob. The 15amp fuse is still good and I can hear the relay clicking every time I engage the horn. I seen a video related to this subject on YouTube and they recommended cleaning the corrosion from the prongs of the horn plug. There was a small amount of corrosion on the prongs. I used a small file, cleaner and dielectric grease and still nothing! I then took the horn out of the truck and wired it directly to a battery to verify that the horn works and it does. I'm completely stumped on what to do next. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Hey what-sup guys! New to the forum but not to GM Vehicles but this has me stumped. First I’ll say, I have searched and searched for these issues and they are all over the board, so I figured I’d start a new thread, if someone seems like this is covered in another topic, link it and I will delete this one. I will add pictures of a couple of the codes it is throwing! Stock 2014 Silverado 1500 4x4 LT non Z71, no added special packages. 125k miles. When I start the truck I get a Power Steering Assist Limited, Service ABS, and Traction control light. Amongst other things, truck runs like crap, and shifts like crap. Hooked up my neighbors snap on scanner and could not connect to the EBCM, TCM, TCCM, Power steering Control module, and a couple others such as Human Interface etc. along with no lines on the screen while backing up. It says to “center steering wheel” so I’m sure this module isn’t communicating over the GMLAN network. I’m confused by this whole thing, I’m not electrical savvy enough to be a master at it. Before it goes into the dealer next week I want to see what you guys think, I’ve covered the basics, and have read probably 6 hours worth of trial and errors. Things I have checked are as followed.. most popular G218 ground under dash speaker, no insulation so I’m good and it is tight, I’ve checked numerous other popular grounds along frame and door jam pillars, all fuses are good, battery tests good, cables seem good, Peeled the Loom back under drivers side cab, nothing seems frayed or corroded in the harness looks good, also pulled the driver and passenger kick panels and did the same. I’m seriously hoping it’s not a bunch of modules. I know these 2014s have wiring issues but I’ve never had anything this bad!!! Im more mechanical not electrical! Offer suggestions I’ll let you know if it’s been covered or not I’m sure I’ve left out some stuff. Thanks in advance.
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I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 2WD 4 door. Only cold air coming out the vents. So i pulled the glove boxes out so I could see the blend door actuator. I could see the clip wasn't connected to the actuator. So I connected to wire clip to ghe actuator, and was excited to see if maybe I had found my no heat issue. But, now my teuck won't crank. Turn the key, 1 click and nothing. Ive checked every fuse. All good. I even jumped the starter relay. The truck would turn over but wouldn't start. I'm clueless.
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Hello - I have a 2010 Suburban LT 4WD, and have narrowed down a parasitic draw to the BCM fuse on the inside fuse panel. If we don't drive the vehicle for 2+ days, I have to jump start it. Let me preface this with some facts. I've replaced the battery recently, and there is nothing plugged in to any of the accessory outlets. I have an aftermarket radio and DVD player, but they are wired correctly (DVD NOT wired to the dome light, radio uses a wiring harness adapter, so pretty certain that it is wired correctly). I've seen the TSBs about the 2007 models BCM, but this is for a 2010. Now back to the issue. At rest, after 10 minutes or so, the truck has about a 300ma draw (still relatively high - normal is somewhere around 50ma). Then, every 10 minutes or so, I get ~ 2A spike, then it drops back down to 300ma. The draw only drops when I pull the BCM fuse: down to ~ 50ma (normal). No other fuses (I tried all of them - under the hood and inside) have any effect on the draw. I've also heard some odd clicking coming from under the dash somewhere that seems to coincide with these spikes, not sure if that is related. Chevy dealer wants $300 to diagnose it, and (they say likely) $600 for a new BCM. They say flashing it wouldn't do anything. If it is definitely the BCM, I'd rather find one on ebay for much cheaper and (try to) have a shop reprogram it. Is that possible? Just wanted to reach out and see if anyone has any insight on what to try next?
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Hey guys, So over the weekend I put a new (to me) transmission in my truck (2003 silverado 1500) upon finishing the job I went to start it up to start pumping the new fluid through, but the truck will not turn over. All lights, radio, ect.. come on, but the truck will not turn over. Also, even after I have pulled the key out, the front marker lights, rear running lights, and dash lights all will not shut off. There is a high pitched ringing coming from the engine compartment, which, along with the lights shuts off when I pull the fuse for "ECM B". Initially I thought this was the Park-Neutral safety switch, which was cracked while we were installing it. The only idea I have left is that there is a small wire that comes out of the harness and attaches to the back of the engine right behind the passenger side cylinder head that was broken while installing the dipstick, I cannot find any information about what this wire is for or where it is supposed to be attached. ANY help would be much appreciated!!!
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Please help....I have a 2010 silverado and all my lights work except tail running lights...checked fuses all good..only getting 3vdc when I check voltage...all other voltages are good 12vdc....when I use the key fob all lights blink as they should...even the tail lights....please help I cannot afford to take this somewhere and I am stumped...
