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Showing results for tags 'Electrical'.
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I am currently in the process of rewiring my old truck, I purchased a wiring harness but there was no place to wire in this small board. It was originally wired into the original harness, under the dash, next to the ECM. Can anyone help me identify what this is? Would it cause my truck to crank but not spark? A wiring diagram would be awesome as well.
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Has anyone had this issue? sorry for lengthy post but its all details that are odd. 2019 z71 LT issue free. Daily driver ~60 miles per day. All was normal, as I was pulling into a gas station, the truck dinged and gauge said service ESC, reduced engine power and shut off. didn’t think much of it because it happened as I pulled up to the pump. Filled up full tank, go to start it, and it cranks with no start. The starter and battery are strong, it cranks like normal, but no start. Thought it was fuel pump at first. Called the tow truck after 30 min of checking all fuses and disconnecting the battery for a few min. About an hour after multiple attempts of crank no start, tried to give it another shot and to my surprise it started but ran very rough. I immediately shut it off. Gave it 30 seconds and thought I’d try again. To my surprise again, fired right up, smooth as butter. No ticks, no rattles, no smoke, ran like normal. Gave it about another 5 min to idle beforere driving home, with no issues. Started driving home and after 15 min of driving, the truck dinged again, flashed service ESC, reduced engine power, and shut off. Pulled off on the side of the road and this time waited for tow truck. It did not start again no matter what i tried. When the tow truck brought it to the house, the driver wanted to put it in park, but accidentally held the brake and pushed to start and the truck fired right up. With no issues. Drove it off the tow truck and when I tried to move it 10 min later, it would do the same thing, crank no start. I scanned for codes and had 17 DTCs at first, once cleared, 9 DTCs remained with Ignition circuit issues. I went through all fuses and relays under the hood, driver side, and passenger side fuse boxes with multimeter and all tested good. Also tested relays with 12v power to each relay at pin 85 and 86 for an audible click. All tested good. What could be the issue? Was thinking a ground cable? I am open to your thoughts and ideas. Thank you in advance
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I am new to the forums and hoping someone may have seen this or run into this before. I own a 2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab, 5.3L, 2WD, 102K miles, Factory radio with a harness plug for a an amp for subs. Electric drop down side steps. LED headlights & fogs. K&N Nighthawk Intake. Battery is less than a year old but i'm in Arizona so batteries get wrecked yearly. I recently took my truck to my local DIY car wash place where I always go. I washed my truck like normal and dried it off like normal. I did not spray engine bay, just the front grill area inward but not heavy. I don't usually use my AC but I'm in Arizona and it was about 109* outside. When I was leaving the car wash I kicked my AC on so I wouldn't mess up the clean windows from rolling them down. I proceeded to leave and as I was coming to the stop sign before making my turn and my truck's idle started to drop, truck kinda sputtered, the battery voltage dropped, the stabilitrak light, traction light, ABS light, all kicked on. The radio shutoff and turned back on. The AC shut off and turned back on, but switched from recirc to fresh. I turned the AC off and then back on again and continued to drive home. It did it a few more times so I swung into the gas station to park and see if it would do it while i was sitting there. Nothing. So back on the road again, turned my AC on and hit the next light, and it did it again. I changed my oil today (6/13), I cleaned my K&N air filter last weekend. I took a trip to Lowes this morning to see if it was still doing it, and sure enough it was. The photos are attached of it doing it in the lowes parking lot before I left. I rolled the windows down, turned the AC off and cruised home. It didnt do it again. So I am thinking the AC is drawing a huge amount of power from the system when I run it, or my battery is done for. Any helpful feedback would be appreciated.
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So my 2018 Chevy Silverado LTZ radio is basically bouncing and I have already tried to remove the blue cable and still does it. And ofcourse I am now 2000 miles out of warranty. This sucks my first new truck is messing up already! IMG_8354.MOV -
So, get up one day after a snow storm to move my truck, battery dead on my 2015 Sierra Base. Original battery, didn't think much of it, boosted it, went and bought a new battery. Next day, new battery is dead again. Brought it to my local mechanic to troubleshoot the draw. He was noticing a 0.5V drop in 9 hours one day, then dead the following day. Charged again, looked at it at night, the heater controls were lit up, another time the instrument cluster warning lights all lit up. He also saw the dome light turn on by themselves. Prior to that, I had other intermittent issues: - unlock the door with the key, pushed the unlock button on the door, it would not unlock the others, start the engine, then I can unlock with the door button - parking brake light on the dash doesn't come on parking brake applied - would crank for 10 to 15 seconds on cold mornings before starting Spoke to another mechanic I know, he said the fuse box was the issue, he replaced 4 in the last couple of years. I got it replaced by my mechanic and brought the truck home. I opened up the old box to see what was going on inside, it was a real mess, all corroded to ******, so pretty confident that was the issue. It's so prevalent that the local dealer keeps them in stock.
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Got an error "service charging system". After some testing it appears the "mega fuse (175a Littelfuse) PN 84095551 is what is bad. (2018 Silverado 1500). I cant find one anywhere. GMpartsdirect.com says 84460795 "replaces". I have had mixed luck with this site... some stuff WAY off. However, I cant find the part anywhere else. I know I can take it to dealer on Monday (NYE) but my fear is they will not have a loaner for me and I NEED the truck/vehicle Monday night/Tuesday. Anyone familiar with this part? Pic below
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I'm going to be mounting one of those 10.6cfm twin piston air compressors (maxi trac, morrflate, stop n go, thor) inside my cab for onboard air. My question is can I ground it to the body, should I run a bulk head and wire to the frame, or run it with the positive back to the bay and ground out on the frame there? It has a 90Amp peak draw and I'll be running 6 AWG wire, it will be fused and run through a switch box to a 200a relay. I know in the past people will ground winches to the frame or body, but with all the computer stuff going on I've got this concern on the back of my head. 2020 1500 Silverado LM2 -
So I'm trying to do the heated/cooled seat retrofit in my 2017 silverado 1500 and I've found a lot of stuff online about how it would be a whole lot of work because of all the extra wiring that the system has, & that it would be almost impossible if you didn't have heated seats to begin with, but I don't accept that & I am determined to make it happen. I've already bought every bit of interior out of this high country which came with the heated/cooled seats, but now that it comes time to actually do the swap I realize that I probably should have done a little more research before spending this much money on this stuff because If pgamboa is correct that means I just wasted $1500, but I'm determined to prove him wrong(no offense if you happen to see this lol). So I guess My main question is, has anyone been able to do this retrofit successfully, to where the heating, cooling, and power all work as designed & so there aren't any airbag lights or other warning lights/messages on the dash? I'm a technician at a gm dealership so I have access to all the wiring diagrams and oem information that I could possibly need, but I'm a little confused as to the hard parts that I will 100% actually need,& I haven't heard of anybody actually doing this successfully with everything working as it should, so I want to make sure it's possible without wasting a whole bunch of time on it to figure it out. The other main concern that I know will need to be done for it to function properly, and the thing I'm most concerned about figuring out, is the programming aspect of it. Obviously the truck will need to be programmed in order for the system to function, but im not quite sure on how to go about doing that, especially since I'm going to be adding new modules entirely since my truck didn't have heated seats to begin with, but would there not be a way to avoid having to do that & just running power and ground to the heated/cooled seats, but still using thd factory buttons to retain the oem look? I mean their pretty much just toggle switches, so really in theory, for for the low setting heat I would think I could just install a resistor between the switch & seats, and could do away with the need for all the modules , I just wouldn't have the memory features or comfort/convince settings that I would if it were programmed correct? That is obvi a worse case scenario type situation if there's just no way to make it work with an aftermarket programmer or something. Which everyone always says something about how if you go that route & end up taking it to a dealership or something & they reprogram the bcm then it would take away all the other features, but since I work at a dealership I can make sure it never has an mdi hooked up to it. It'd be nice if gm would let you program any module to your vehicle if all the appropriate hardware was there & whatnot I really don't understand why they don't allow that, but apparently it's above my pay grade lol. But if anyone has any info om this, or better yet if angone has actually SUCCESSFULLY done this, please help ya boy out with some info! Please & thanks In advance! -
my fuel gauge on my 2005 silverado is not working. i replaced the fuel pump with one i got at 1A auto, but the gauge still does not work. sometimes it is stuck at E, other times it is stuck at F. the pump i got from 1A is supposedly the right one for my 2005 silverado 1500 rwd 5.3L ... anybody have any suggestions for me? i've seen some references to 'bad ground wire' in other forums, but nobody gives any details on what wire/connection/location, how to find/fix, etc. ... adv-thanks-ance.- 14 replies
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I am looking for some detailed electrical drawings/schematics for a 1994 Silverado K1500. I have the Hayne's and Chilton's manuals but may need more information about the electrical system. I had a shop do a LS swap in my son's 94. They did a great job installing the 5.3 with the mated transmission. The motor runs great and no issues with the transmission. But there are items that are not working that were working before the swap. The shop didn't give me an upfront estimate for the swap and was billing me an hourly rate so I'm doing the rest of it myself. I have used the search bar here with limited results. I am a new member here and I'm having a hard time navigating this site. Plus, what's up with all these ads that are everywhere? Thanks in advance for your help. -
My brake lights stopped working intermittently. Now they are permanently out. Checked the bulb, good. Checked the wire, good. What could be causing this?
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This is my first post so sorry if I’m all over the place. I’ve had my 2014 Sierra slt for about two years now. I got it with 116k miles and I’m at about 174k right now. Since the day I’ve bought the truck it’s been nothing but issues. You name it, it’s happened. Four separate water leaks (sunroof, gps antenna, third brake light, and cab vents), 2 transfer case control modules, problems with the power steering going out, brakes going out at low speeds. A couple of months ago my transmission went out and it also needed various other repairs totaling over $20k. Now my park assist sensors don’t work, my rear doors don’t open from the inside and also don’t lock from the outside, reverse lights and camera don’t work, and it constantly dings at me to service my trailer brake system (seriously, it chimes at me about every two seconds as I’m going down the road, telling me to service the trailer brakes). I’ve gone through and checked every ground I can find and nothing helps. Today I went through every single fuse and relay in the truck. I found a couple of blown fuses and replaced as needed, but still no change. I’m at a loss for what to do at this point as I’m stuck with the truck after all the money I’ve sunk into it. Does anybody maybe have any solutions to any of these problems? I’m desperate for answers, anything helps. -
Alright guys, so my cruise control has not been working and after some research, I got a lot of answers saying it was due to a bad brake switch. So I went ahead and replaced that and it still wont work. Any other suggestions? -
I have been trying to wire up a new stereo for my 2005 express, and I have already cut the factory harness (oops). The problem I have is that I cannot find out where the accessory wire is, and consequently the new unit will not shut off with the car because it's only wired to the 12v constant. I gave tried to use a multimeter to find the accesory wire by having the key in the on position and seeing which wire reads 12v, but the only wire I get a reading for is the 12v constant wire. Anybody know which wire is the accessory wire? Or whether there even is one? -
I got a 2017 Silverado 2lt with remote start and recently a peer of mine got his truck stolen. I want to add something to my truck to prevent that but I can’t really afford the viper alarm system at the moment so i want to install a kill switch in the ignition. If someone could share the wiring diagram that would be awesome because I can’t seem to find it and I was curious if there was a way to install the kill switch without losing my remote start.
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Does anyone know how to hook up the 12v constant power to the run lights in my trailer? They definitely work on our dodge 3500, but on my 2014 Sierra 1500 they don't. My only assumption is its not hooked up from the factory. Is it as simple as the older model GM trucks? Hook up a wire to the post by the fuse box and plug in a fuse for that location? Cheers
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I was having electrical issues on my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500, which is at 197,000 miles. The issues were things like pulsing lights (interior and exterior and low voltage fluctuation (14.0v to 11.8v) so I replaced the alternator with a premium 160amp remanufactured one from CarQuest. Now my voltage seems high, sitting at 14.9v-15.2v during idle. The pulsing went away, but now it pulses when I rev the engine. I will leave it at about 1500 RPMs and it will steadily pulse until I release the gas. Is this an issue with the alternator or something else? -
I just got my truck less than a week ago 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 47k mi. many given moment the truck will lose all electrical power, radio shut down, dash loses power, time resets, the works. If I auto start the it and it happens the fob is in-op, won’t lock unlock… it is from Texas but has been in Alaska for five months, fully winterized, trickle charger, block heater, oil pan heater everything. It gets plugged in every night. Has no reported recalls corresponding with the VIN. It does every so often have an action required to open and close the driver window. I have seen some issues on the forum regarding ground G218 (might be wrong identifier) but the symptoms aren’t quite the same. SEND HELP! thanks
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Let me start with the beginning of when this all began, 3 nights ago I removed a power wire circuit breaker that was in-line to my sub amp, I connected the sub power terminal directly to my battery (dangerous move I know) 2 nights ago I removed and re-twirled my remote power wire and re-inserted it into the amp Yesterday when leaving work I finally heard my sub kick on for the first time in a month, this morning I tried to crank my truck and it would make a subtle click and nothing else, no power to my instrument panel, radio no nothing. I replaced the battery today and had no luck after, and there wasnt even a "click" after trying to start the truck. So I removed and re-inserted some fuses on all 3 fuse blocks on the truck and when trying to crank, I can hear the entire dash for the most part gets power except radio, and instrument panel. We ran a voltage tester for all fuses except the larger silver ones, so we swapped the silver ones around to see if it helped and had no luck. I will list the accessories that do not work vs which ones do. Accessories that DONT work Horn Radio or Instrument Panel Dash Lights Starter Power Windows Accessories that DO work Overhead lights Keys lock and unlock truck I'm thinking its some sort of accessory power wire short or something but I wanted to get 2nd opinions. -
Have 4 - 300 watt light bars on my roof rack and 4 - 103 watt cree’s on the winch mount. Decided to run all the wiring to a central location vs mix and match I did over time. So purchased a 6 rocker switch panel with 3 12V outlets, double row. Went back-and-forth a week trying to think in my head where I wanted to mount it to make it easily accessible, as I live in the mountains and when oncoming traffic is coming I need to be able to shut them off immediately! I knew overhead was the best place but didn’t want to go through the trouble. However now that it’s done it really wasn’t that much of an issue at all. I cut the sunglass holder 3/4 of the way out and it only over fills the entire consul by about a 1/4 inch. If I hadn’t already bought this panel and knew today was the only day I could do the project for a few weeks, I would have waited and not used the 3 outlets and just went with a single row panel of 6 (8 best) rocker switches as that would’ve been very neat, clean and looked much more custom! For anyone looking to do it, the absolute best looking would be 8 rocker switches on a single row panel for an absolute perfect fit! But I was impatient and wasn’t going to toss $50 out the door for the panel I had so wound up force fitting into the console. This doesn’t look horrible and I think I’ll be able to live with it but if it gets the best of me and my OCD, I can always order a new console with the 8 switches as the wiring is already there and would be a simple project. Any questions feel free to ask! I’ll post pictures shortly. -
I was driving for about 45 minutes down the interstate in my 2014 Silverado. I went to pass a car and the cruise shut off when i turned the blinker on. The dash lights would also dim for a second when i pressed the brake or turned on the blinker. It continued to do this until i pulled into a parking lot and shut the truck off for about 30 minutes while i was in a store. I should also note that when i pulled in the parking spot it was like the power steering quit for half a second like it has done a few times before. On the 1 hour trip home it drove normally with no issues. I have had other electrical issues like diming headlights when pressing the brake and also headlights dimming in time with the blinker. Usually these problems happen when i have been driving for 45 minutes or more. My battery is about a year old so i dont think that is the issue. Has anyone else had these issues and found a fix? Thanks -
Ok guy, I'm getting beat up on this one. 2015 Silverado, headlights flickering and a few other strange electrical issues. I've done the following: - new battery -new alternator -cleaned up ground connections- 2 on the front near the tow hooks, 1 on the frame that goes straight to the battery, the ever famous G218 in the left corner of the dash -new negative battery cable -took to dealer that did "thorough check" and still found nothing Still have flickering headlights and if I hit my window up switch when the windows are already up all the electrical in the dash goes dead for a few seconds and comes back. I'm ready to set this thing on fire. Any advice is appreciated.
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I have a 2010 Silverado 1500. The instrument cluster is completely non-functional except for the check engine light. The gauges do not work, nothing displays on the LCD, and no other lights illuminate. The check engine light will come on when the key is turned on, but as soon as the engine starts it too disappears. Everything else seems to work - radio, A/C, etc. I checked the fuses that I figured could be related. disconnected and reconnected the battery. I banged on the dash in case of a loose connection, and even tried swapping out the cluster panel with another panel, and got the exact same behavior. Would anyone be willing to share any advice or guesses? Should I change the ignition switch? Look for a bad ground (not sure where to start with that).
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My new old '88 truck needs a new brake light switch. It's got a release switch thing for cruise control in front of it (but no cruise control on the column), and I'm wondering if anyone with a similar set up can give me some basic tips on how to get to that brake light switch, in order to take it out. Can you wiggle your fingers around in there and get it loose, or will I have to take something off to get to it? The cruise control switch is on the brass bracket from the steering column. Even if I take the cruise control switch out, it's hard to get to the brake light switch. But I'm new at this, so maybe I'm whining too early or missing something.
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I replaced my pass side light bulb about 5 months ago with the same type of halogen bulbs that they come with out of the factory and one day i realized that the same side as before went out. Before that one went out i had a set of after market LED lights. these to be exact https://www.amazon.ca/Lumen-9012HLC-G7-LED-Performance-Bulbs/dp/B01N5Q0TMA i ran those LED's on my truck and they looked great! everything was plug and play they lasted for about 4 months when my pass side bulb gave out on those too. when i took out the bulb to inspect it one of the LED diodes was blown out. I wasn't too surprised by that because sometimes after market parts can be a bit cheaper quality. But when my OEM halogen bulbs went out. thats 3 sets of bulbs in less than 2 years. I am just wondering. Is this bad luck?? Have any of you had this issue before?? if you did what was causing it?? any troubleshooting tips?? I really dont want to keep buying light bulbs every 5 months even the halogen bulbs are a little expensive
