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Found 118 results

  1. **The Sierra & Silverado HID topics have been merged and edited, in an attempt to create one comprehensive HID topic** This topic will cover HID information, HID headlight bulb upgrades, HID fog light bulb upgrades, as well as installing aftermarket HID projectors/bulbs ("retrofit"). This information was last updated on 04/18/14 -----DISCLAIMER----- Automotive lamps, reflective devices, and associated equipment must adhere to the United States §571.108 Standard #108 to be legal for road use (http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regulations/administration/fmcsr/fmcsrruletext.aspx?reg=571.108). Your state or local governments may also impose standards and restrictions on vehicle lighting. If you choose to install HID bulbs and/or projectors, you alone are responsible for compliance and possible legal consequences. -----HID BASICS----- Lumen - a measure of the total visible light emitted by a source Incandescent Bulb – The traditional bulb design which passes electricity through a filament inside a bulb containing an inert gas or a vacuum. The filament heats up and gives off light. Unfortunately, only 5 to 10% of the electricity supplied is converted into light, with the rest being lost as heat. Halogen Bulb – An improved incandescent bulb, which is filled with a Halogen-family gas, allowing it to operate at higher temps and produce more light. The average 9006-type 55watt Halogen headlight bulb produces roughly 1000 lumen. HIR (Halogen Infrared Reflective) Bulb – A further improvement on the incandescent bulb, these Halogen bulbs are given special coatings on the interior of glass which reflect infrared back into the filament, allowing it to run even hotter/brighter than a standard Halogen bulb. The average 9012-type 55watt HIR headlight bulb produces roughly 1700 lumen. HID (High Intensity Discharge) Bulb – A different bulb design from the incandescent, these arc-type bulbs look similar but do not use a heated filament to produce light. Instead, an electrical arc is created between two metal tips in the presence of special gases and vaporized salts contained in a bulb. The electrical arc converts the gases & salts into plasma, producing significantly more light per watt. HID bulbs are often called Xenon because many early HID’s used Xenon gas inside the bulb. The average 9006-type 35watt HID headlight bulb produces over 3000 lumen, while only using two-thirds the power of Halogen bulbs. LED (Light Emitting Diode) – Technically not a bulb, LED’s are a type of semiconductor which produce light through electroluminescence. The short version: electrons jump around and emit photons of light. LED's are very efficient, operate at low temps, and are the future of lighting, but are currently still too expensive to compete with HID’s when it comes to total light output per dollar. Which headlight bulbs do the 2014+ GM trucks use? Silverado - H11 Halogen bulbs for low beams and 9005 Halogen bulbs for high beams. Sierra - 9012 HIR bulbs which function as both the low and high beams. What are projector headlights? Traditional headlights utilize a simple reflector, which results in significant light scatter, similar to a flood light. Projector headlights incorporate a lens forward of the reflector to control the light distribution, resulting in more focused light pattern. They also contain a shutter between the reflector and lens which creates a cutoff line, blocking light above a certain height. Projectors were created to reducing glare to other drivers & pedestrians, as well as reduce white-out in fog & snow. The Silverado's projectors have fixed shutters and function as low beams only (they have a separate traditional headlight for high beams). The Sierra's projectors have movable shutters. The shutter is closed when using low beams and opens when you hit the highs, allowing more light output. This setup is strictly mechanical and the output of the bulb does not change whether using lows or highs. Why upgrade to HID bulbs? Projector headlight systems were originally designed to be used with HID's. Instead of offering HID's in the 2014 trucks, GM opted to go the cheap route and use halogen bulbs instead. The result is headlights many of us consider inadequate, at best. Installing HID bulbs helps to partially correct what many see as a significant design flaw. HID bulbs are not perfect (primarily because of GM's use of inferior lenses and reflectors in the stock projectors) but are a substantial improvement over the stock halogen bulbs. What is a projector retrofit? A projector retrofit is the process of installing HID projectors into vehicles that were originally equipped with standard halogen reflector headlights. It has also come to include any upgrades to a vehicle's existing projectors, whether they be the halogen or HID variety. Aftermarket HID projector retrofits are the best lighting upgrade currently available, but have significantly higher costs and generally require a greater knowledge & skill level to install compared to HID bulb kits. -----HID HEADLIGHT BULB UPGRADE SHOPPING LIST----- Three main components are required for HID install: (1) HID Kit, (1) Relay Wiring Harness, (1) Pair of Capacitors / Code Eliminators / CAN-Bus (1) HID Kit This HID kit will include two HID bulbs and two ballasts (ballasts regulate the amount of current flowing to the HID bulbs). When ordering, you must specify the bulb number, wattage, and color temp: Bulb Number: Silverado - H11 kit Sierra - 9006 or 9012 kit Wattage: The majority of HID kits come in either 35 watt or 55 watt. I personally recommend the 35 watt, which are 150% brighter than the stock bulbs, but not too bright that they draw unwanted attention to your truck or blind other drivers. There are a few members on here running 55 watt kits with no heat/melting issues. Color Temp: The actual color of the light, measured in Kelvin. 3500K is stock yellow, 4500K to 5000K is white, and 6000K is white with hints of blue. Color temps of 7000K & above are very blue/purple and are definitely not recommended. (1) HID Relay Harness The relay harness will consist of relay(s) and the necessary wiring to connect to it to the battery, ballasts, and stock headlight output(s). This harness allows the HID's to run straight off the battery and is required for a proper installation. (1 to 2) Capacitor(s) / Error Code Eliminator(s) / CAN-Bus On the 2014's, the factory headlight wiring contains a type of "electronic noise" known as PWM (pulse-width modulation). When PWN is introduced to the relay or ballasts, it often causes the HID's to flicker/fail and the relay to make a loud buzzing sound. Capacitors correct this issue by filtering out the PWN and passing along a clean signal to the relay/ballasts. If you purchase a single input harness, you need (1) capacitor to complete a proper install. If you purchase a dual input harness, you need (2) capacitors to complete a proper install. That said, the vast majority of vendors only sell them in pairs. -----HID HEADLIGHT BULB BRANDS & VENDORS----- Morimoto (made in South Korea) Morimoto's are the Mercedes of HID's. High quality stuff but at a high premium. If you decide to go with Morimoto's, you need to buy the HID kit and choose the included HD relay harness option. You'll also need to purchase separately a pair of CAN-Bus error code eliminators. (1) HID Kit with included HD Relay Harness + (1) pair of CAN-Bus = $180 + S&H http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ DDM (made in China) DDM is a US vendor that drop ships HID kits straight from the factory in China. On the plus side, you save a ton of money on the price, but the trade off is their shipping takes 2 to 3 weeks. Normally, I try to stay away from cheap chinese electronics, but myself and many others on this forum have been using DDM for years with no issues. I highly recommend their kits as an economical alternative to Morimoto. That said, a few forum members have reported receiving bad ballasts that failed to ignite right out the box (based on what I've seen on the forum, I'd say it's 1 in 50). DDM will send you a free replacement, but you do have to wait 2 more weeks. I don't think I've seen any members report bulb/ballast failures past the initial install. If you're worried about being that 1 in 50, you can go with a higher-end brand HID kit or you could order two DDM HID kits and have plenty of spare parts (that's what I do, because two DDM kits are still half the price of one high-end brand kit). **I do not have any direct interaction with DDM, other than as a HID customer, nor am I paid/compensated for recommending their products - I'm simply think it's a good deal** (1) HID Kit + (1) Relay Harness + (1) pair of Capacitors = $55 + S&H http://www.ddmtuning.com/ 250MotorSportz (made in China?) I really don't know much about this company or their HIDs Forum member icecrm is affiliated with them and he posted a really good "How To" HID install with pics further down in this topic. (1) HID Kit + (1) Relay Harness + (1) pair of Capacitors = $170 + S&H http://www.250motorsportz.ca/ Amazon / eBay (made in China) You can find all kinds of different brands/vendors on Amazon, eBay, and other online retailers. There's no "wrong" brand to buy, as the majority are all made in China anyway. Most people on the forum are either Morimoto or DDM, but I'm definitely not saying you should only choose from those! -----HID HEADLIGHT BULB INSTALLATION----- When completed correctly, installing HIDs is a simple process that makes a dramatic improvement. No kit out there will be a 100% plug-n-play setup because of the 2014's sealed headlight design. Current kits are roughly 75% plug-n-play, mainly involving connecting plugs and installing +/- leads to battery/grounds. The 25% exception exists because all HID kits will require the drilling of a small hole in the headlights' rear-facing removable caps to allow the bulbs wiring to reach the ballasts. It's not difficult by any means and, because the caps are removable, you can buy replacements if you ever decide to remove your HIDs in the future. Testing - Before beginning any install, you should test your bulbs and ballasts! The last thing you want to do is go to all the trouble of installing everything, only to find out you have a bad component. With the engine off, lay out the parts on the radiator cover and make all the necessary connections. For the test, use the driver's side factory headlight output, since it's the less difficult to access. It's often also easier to use jumper cables to connect the +/- for this temporary setup. Once you're ready, test the lights with the engine off and then with the engine on. If possible, do in daylight to test DRL activation and then cover light sensor on dash to simulate night to test auto-headlights. Wiring - In order to access the rear of passenger headlight and complete a proper install, you will need to raise the air box's cover and remove the lower portion of box and filter. You can leave the top attached to the intake tube and just move it out the way while working. The cover is held on with (4) screws. The lower box is held in with rubber plugs along the bottom... just yank straight up on box to remove. There are several different styles of wiring harness out there, but whichever you end up with it's important to determine if it's a Single Input or Dual Input harness. Each has a slightly different wiring method. -Single input harness will have two headlight-type plugs for the ballasts and a third input designed to connect to the stock headlight source. You must flip/reverse the connection between the stock signal and capacitor to account for the truck's reversed polarity. From the capacitor, you'll then connect relay, to ballasts, then to bulbs (see attached diagram) -Dual input harness will have two headlight-type plugs for the ballasts and two inputs designed to connect to the both stock headlight sources. You will not flip any connections during wiring. The stock signals connect normally to capacitors, who then connect to relay, to ballasts, then to bulbs (see attached diagram) Regardless of which you have, just remember the flow should be "Stock Signal ---> Capacitor ---> Relay ---> Ballasts ---> Bulbs" Access Holes - Most HID bulbs come with rubber grommets pre-installed on their wiring. If yours didn't, you can pick the up at a parts store. Basically you just drill the appropriate sized hole removable cap, pass through wiring, and secure the grommet in the hole. You might also consider using butyl rubber or silicone around the grommet for extra moisture protection. (icecrm has a good picture of this in his post later down this topic). Bulbs - This should go without saying but never touch the glass part of the headlight bulbs, HID or Halogen! The oils on your fingers may cause them to shatter when they head up. Many HID kits include additional O-rings, so that you can adjust the fit of the bulb in the socket. If your kit did not include any, and you feel the bulb isn't seating correctly, you can pick up spares at any parts store. Keep in mind however, the majority of HID bulbs will never fit as tight/snugly as the stock halogen bulbs, so don't fret too much. It's important to note there is a certain orientation in which the bulbs must be positioned when inserting into the stock housing. I can't remember the exact was to insert them as it's been a good while since I did mine, but there's a simple way to check if your are correct. When parked about 10 feet from a wall, if you notice little diamonds of light above the cut-off line, it means you need to rotate the bulbs' orientation slightly (if you thumb is at the 9 o'clock position when removing, without changing grip, try inserting the bulb with your thumb at 12 or 1 o'clock). If you're not sure about your wiring harness, a specific connection, or anything else, feel free to shoot me a message.
  2. I have a 2018 1500 Silverado, was going to order headlights for it but the ones I like are titled for 2500’s and 3500’s, I was just wondering if they’re able to bolt onto my 1500 and look correct
  3. I've got a 2009 Yukon that has some random LED headlights in it. I really like the look of the led's but they are garbage as far as visibility. Anyone have a bulb combo that seems to work well with the stock Yukon headlight assembly?
  4. Today for the first time I drove my 2014 SIERRA TEXAS EDITION in the rain at night.... WOW>>>>> I had to stop and wait for the rain downpour to let out so I could see where I was going. Not Good. Driving at night is very stressfull and eye straining to the point of taking headache medications once you are done driving. Any wayt to fix this Extremely Dangerous Problem?
  5. I have a Silverado Custom and I want to upgrade the whole headlight fixture to the LED headlights. Does anyone know the cost of the OEM LED headlights? Also has anyone heard of aftermarket headlights OEM style that may be coming out?
  6. The LED lights in the passenger side headlight of my 2016 Sierra 1500 Crew Cab are sporadically not working. Sometimes the are on, sometimes they aren't. The driver side functions properly all the time. The main light in the center of the headlight works fine all the time. I took it to the dealership and they replaced the whole headlight. When I turned on the truck a few hours after I picked it up from the dealership the LED lights were not working again. Has anyone had or heard about this issue? I'm going to take it back to the dealership, but would love some advice from anyone else that has dealt with this issue. Thanks!
  7. Looking to upgrade my halogen headlight housing (reflector) light output with some LED headlight bulbs. I understand many people say not to do it as it blinds others, however I rarely drive at night and even then I live in a very rural area with little traffic. Most of the usage with be during the day with the DRL’s. So does anyone have recommendations for what kind of LED bulb I should go with, one that works good in the reflector style headlight housing? Looking for a simple bulb swap, I think you should be able to just swap the bulbs out right?
  8. Question ?? does anyone know if the 2018 Yukon "HID" headlight assembly will fit my 2015 Yukon ? and if so are they just plug and play or are the wiring harness's different ? I've been running aftermarket HID's and I'm tired of always having to work on them, just not reliable and the stock halogen bulbs in projectors just plain suck !!
  9. Question ?? does anyone know if the 2018 Yukon "HID" headlight assembly will fit my 2015 Yukon ? and if so are they just plug and play or are the wiring harness's different ? I've been running aftermarket HID's and I'm tired of always having to work on them, just not reliable and the stock halogen bulbs in projectors just plain suck !!
  10. Hey guys, Quick question. I bought a 2014 Sierra SLT last week and took it up north to the cabin over the weekend. I drove through a lot of rain throughout the whole weekend. The truck was 2 days old with 400 miles on it and I noticed the inside of both healights were foggy one night, towards the bottom over the LED running light. Has anyone had this issue? Or has anyone herd of this being a problem? I am taking it back to the dealer this week for some gm accessories so I am interested to see what they say.
  11. Hey all, I own a 2018 Silverado 2500HD LTZ Z71...The damn headlights are that terrible yellow color, Did Chevy not put LED lights on any of the 2500 models? Has anyone replaced the whole light assembly or even just bulbs to achieve the clearer look? If so please share and checkout the photo below of my headlights compared to the illuminated bow tie. Thanks for the help.
  12. 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 WT crew cab passenger side complete headlight assembly chrome. The back of the dust covers have been cut open to fit LED lights as well as give more airflow to cool down. I am transferring the LED lights to my new headlight assembly and will put brand new bulbs in it. This will NOT fit the 1500. I’m certain It’s for 2014-2018 2500 & 3500 but I believe there’s other applications as well such as Tahoe and Suburban. Prices range from $625 to $800 for new OEM! I know, absolutely ridiculous!!! I have attached a couple of pictures with prices to show both Google and EBay. $500 includes free shipping! Last picture below is the actual headlight.
  13. Having cracked the drivers headlight and finding out the cheapest OEM replacement was $600 I looked for aftermarket. These are Akkon and look identical to Spyder and may very well be they make them for Spyder. $300 Amazon. Fast shipping and so far, a very high quality made product! Very happy with them so far and love the daytime running lights strip that surrounds the headlights plus you don’t burn out your headlights as fast using them for the running lights. Hoping I can use the same LED bulbs in my old assembly but just haven’t gotten around to doing that yet. Upside is I should be able to sell the passenger side for around $500 on eBay, covering the cost of both and pocketing $200!!!
  14. I'm new to the site, I just have a simple question. I apologize if it's been asked and answered. My question about 2014 LT Silverado. I have basic reflector style headlights in my truck, is it possible to change them out to the projector style LTZ or High Country headlight assemblies?
  15. I give up!!!! Web search shows hundreds of companies that “proclaim” to sell headlight lenses only, there are write ups on the Internet saying how it’s cheaper then to replace the entire assembly, there are articles about should you polish or replace the lens. The only problem? I can’t find anyone that freaking SELLS THEM! Punch in headlight lens on Google and it will come up with an endless list of companies AND PICTURES of the lens, but when you actually go to the website it produces nothing but headlight assemblies over and over! Frustrating and irritating to say the least. So is anybody aware of a place that I can order the clear outer plastic lens only for a 2015 3500 Silverado? Or am I dreaming? And has anyone tried just using a clear cover to snap over it?
  16. First post but following for a while now, I was wondering if anyone on her has done, or has seen a set of aftermarket Silverado headlights in a Sierra? I have a 2012 Sierra and I like the look of some of the Silverado headlights a lot better than the ones I have now, just want to change it up a bit and was wondering if anyone new if they we able to just be bolted in normally or if there was a conversion to make it possible?
  17. I replaced my pass side light bulb about 5 months ago with the same type of halogen bulbs that they come with out of the factory and one day i realized that the same side as before went out. Before that one went out i had a set of after market LED lights. these to be exact https://www.amazon.ca/Lumen-9012HLC-G7-LED-Performance-Bulbs/dp/B01N5Q0TMA i ran those LED's on my truck and they looked great! everything was plug and play they lasted for about 4 months when my pass side bulb gave out on those too. when i took out the bulb to inspect it one of the LED diodes was blown out. I wasn't too surprised by that because sometimes after market parts can be a bit cheaper quality. But when my OEM halogen bulbs went out. thats 3 sets of bulbs in less than 2 years. I am just wondering. Is this bad luck?? Have any of you had this issue before?? if you did what was causing it?? any troubleshooting tips?? I really dont want to keep buying light bulbs every 5 months even the halogen bulbs are a little expensive
  18. Hello everyone. I purchased a complete set of LED bulbs to replace all the stock bulbs for my 2012 GMC Sierra 2500 HD. In addition, I upgraded the tail lights and the head light assemblies as well to house these new bulbs. I'm very happy with the complete change-over except for the hyper flash issue I'm having with the new LED turn signals. Originally, I thought I could just replace the original flasher for an LED flasher that doesn't monitor the load on the circuit and therefore operates normally with the light-loaded LED upgrade. Turns out that the 2012 doesn't have a flasher and it's the BCM that controls the turn signal lights. From what I've researched, it appears that the BCM can be programmed to allow the use of LED's by changing the configuration of the BCM to a "cab/chassis" setup where the vehicle would accept the LED tail lights. I'm guessing that with changing everything including front turn signal bulbs to LED, the BCM reprogram to "cab/chassis" will not fix my issue because I've changed the front turn signals to LED as well. The other option I've researched is installing load resistors for every LED bulb. That seems a bit outrageous and hacking into the original wiring harness is not what I'd prefer as it makes it more susceptible to malfunction, corrosion, etc. not to mention the heat these resistors tend to give off, if installed improperly, can begin causing a whole other bundle of issues. So my question is, will the BCM reprogram resolve the hyper flash issue? Depending where you are but most dealers will charge $120 - $200 for the 3 minutes it takes to plug in but if it fixes the issue, I'd rather go that route instead of hacking my wiring harness. Thanks in advance for any help!
  19. I wanted to get the pulse of how many people have successfully had their Denali/LED headlamps painted? I am very interested in doing mine but have 2 major concerns due to the cost of these OEM lights: - Is it REALLY possible to get these re-sealed adequately to the point I should have little to no concern of condensation ever occurring after spending some serious money to have these painted? - Speaking of serious money, what is a reasonable amount to expect to pay? I know you can infinitely increase the cost of these projects by adding different LED switchbacks, different projectors, doing intricate paintings vs. just satin black everything, etc. What I'm wanting falls somewhere in the middle. I want to upgrade the LED switchback module (bc why not if I'm already in $$$ to crack them open?) which runs around $150 I believe, and I want a simple Satin black + (maybe) a portion color-matched as well (still on the fence) as well as the GMC stamped in the chrome of the headlamps to be the red color of the emblems. Does anyone have any input/feedback/advice/recommendations on this? If I have it done, I'd potentially be willing to send them off to someone to have them done, but shipping is a major added cost. Is there anyone in on of the following locations (that is highly recommended as well as reasonable??): Houston, TX - Where I live Austin, TX San Antonio, TX Dallas, TX Ft. Worth, TX Baton Rouge, LA Oklahoma City, OK Any and all comments are highly appreciated!
  20. Does anybody know what level of work, or if it's possible to put 18 Sierra headlights on an 18 Silverado? Personally I despise my Silverado headlights, but like the Sierra's headlights! Do the wires need to be changed, probably the bumper and front fascia. But fenders? Has anyone done this?
  21. I was wondering if anybody knew if the newer 2018 sierra tail lights would somehow fit the 2015's? And if not, is there is a certain company making some custom ones for the 15' that are made to look like the 2018's? This is my first post to the group as I am new and will be asking more questions soon. So if I didnt do this right, please feel free to tell me how to correctly ask my next question. Thanks.
  22. I have a 2002 Sierra Z71. I see a lot of options online for aftermarket headlights, but the reviews are terrible. Does anyone have a link to some known GOOD options? Thanks in advance!
  23. Hi everyone, I haven't been on in a while, but, I wanted to check in, as this is still something that is bugging me. Does anyone know if the anzo headlights for the 2016-18 silverados.. trim.. fit the oem headlights? My thought is, because the oem branded headlights are so expensive, and because I only want to change from chrome to paint color, this may be a cheaper workaround. Its still quite costly, but, I can't find another way to get the trim reliably. I'd still honestly like to switch to LED lights, but, its just not a reasonable proposal when I already have HIDs.
  24. Anyone have any tips for replacing the low beams on my 2500 silverado (2019) with LEDs?
  25. Hey All, Hoping you guys can point me in the right direction. I have a 2014 Silverado that has recently lost the passenger side low beam. The headlights will turn on when starting the truck and then flicker and the passenger side goes out within about 10 seconds. The driver's side continues to operate as normal and the high beams also operate as normal. If I turn on the headlight switch with the truck not running the headlights will both stay on. Once the truck starts the passenger bulb shuts off. I had this in to the dealer since it was looking like a BCM issue and I have no way of testing or programming a new BCM. They diagnosed and said the BCM was bad. Essentially they replaced the BCM with no results and they replaced the underhood fuse panel with no results. They said when the light quits they are not getting power out of the BCM for that headlight. So it is either a BCM input or something in the BCM. They did find a code (after performing the "repairs") and that code was a "short to ground" code. They did not give me the code number. Has anyone had this? Right now this is the only issue. I've read about ground issues and will check those on Saturday but I am not experiencing any other electrical issues so I am doubting I have a dash ground issue. I appreciate any help you all can give. Thanks, Derek
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