These are the torque specs I used on my 2014 1500 when I installed my 2.5” kit. Worked great for me and have had no issues, just be sure to recheck and re-torque after you drive some and everything settles.
Heard the noise again today.. It just started up again randomly half way on my drive home. However it hit me, I think I know what is the cause of my noise. I have ave a aero skin hood protector on my truck, and I have noticed in the last few months the adhesive is starting to come lose, especially on the passenger side. I have restock it down a few times. When I heard the noise today, I just sat there going through my mind as to what it possibly could be and then wham, it hit me right in the face. It’s got to be the hood protector coming loose on the passenger side and flopping in the wind slightly. When I got home I got out and looked, and it was sitting flush like normal. However I tried to lift it up in the corner and sure enough it was lose just above the passenger headlight. Why didn’t I honk of that sooner?? Smh. So, if you have some kind of hood protector, especially the aero skin check and see if the adhesive is coming undone in any areas.
Is your truck leveled or does it have the factory rake? How heavy is the 5th wheel? What’s the tongue weight? If your truck is stock (not leveled), then I would venture to say your truck will squat a couple inches to the point it sits level. However if your truck is leveled already, then adding a fifth wheel will shift more weight towards the back causing a little more squat than if it’s not leveled. So in short I would say based on my last truck (2004 Chevy 3500 DRW), you will squat 2-3 inches. Your asking this in the 2014-2018 1500 light duty portion of the forums, you should go ask in the 20015-2019 2500/3500HD section as they would be able to answer your question based on real world experience.
Fuel economy update as promised. @tanner709 Odometer reading 1st fill up: 70,153 miles 2nd fill up: 70,474 miles (321 miles) Miles driven: *337 miles *5% factored in due to tire size (321 x 1.05 = 337.05) 2nd fill up= 21.921 gallons 337 / 21.921= 15.373 MPG (computer reading): 15.3 mpg MPG (hand calculated): 15.4 mpg Is that right? The computer is nearly spot on despite having larger tires? That is mostly highway driving. 50% going 65mph and 50% going 80 mph roughly.
I seriously have no idea. I have the 5.3, had the noise for a couple days and that was it, never heard it again. I couldn’t isolate the noise either but didn’t have a second pair of ears to help isolate while driving. So I guess I am not worried about it anymore since mine stopped after a few days, lol.
I hear what you saying, but in reality I am pretty confident that I lost more than just 1mpg.. My AFM doesn’t kick in near as often, the added weight and rolling resistance has made me have to be heavier on the throttle, and I definitely have to stop at the gas station more often. I didn't mention above, but when I was stock I could get about 20-21 mpg going 60mph, But overall I averaged about 18 stock and about 14-15 mpg average after the wheels and tires. So considering I got about 20 -21mpg stock at 60mph and now get about 17mpg at 60mph as you pointed out after adjusting for the tires, that would really be around a 3-4mpg loss. I will try and remember to hand calculate my fuel economy with my next fill up to get a real world number.
I’m running 17x9 wheels with a 0 offset and 295/70R17’s on my 2014 Silverado with a 2.5” level. The 295’s rub some at full lock so you should be good with 285’s. As far as MPG, stock I was averaging around 18 mpg and now I am getting around 15 mpg according to the lie meter in the gauges. However I am in Texas and spend a lot of drive time going 75-80 mph on the highway, which isn’t exactly a good speed for fuel economy. I can get 16-17 mpg going around 60 mph. So But I am not sure on the accuracy due to the tire size change.. I hand calculated once after getting the wheels/tires, but don’t remember exactly how close it was.
I have a set of Trail Ridge tow mirrors for 2014+ for sale (Power adjust, heated, turn signal). They are in great shape and everything works, No scratches. Only had these on my truck for about 6 months, however decided I liked the smaller regular color matched dl8 mirrors I originally had and went back to them. Asking $150.
The LED lights of the past where far worse than the newest ones. Reflector headlights are designed specifically to reflect the light from the specific spot the halogen light bulb lights up, in years past LED lights did not mimic the specific light output location as the halogen lights which made LED lights scatter the beam very badly and blind everyone. Now the newer LED’s mimic the halogen light output location far better. However with that being said, the LED’s still put out a much brighter light and can still be blinding to others on the road, but not near as bad as years ago.
My truck is a 2014. Currently I have some Sylvania silver star ZXE bulbs. They are ok, but not that much of a upgrade from stock. I just think LED’s look better and are brighter. I was kinda looking at some HIKARI LED Headlight Bulb Conversion Kit on amazon, they have good reviews. They have a cheaper one and then of course a more premium higher output one. 2 year warranty. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GKPR452/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OwkhDb8N6VV5N https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077BT6M6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QzkhDbWQRQTKP
Looking to upgrade my halogen headlight housing (reflector) light output with some LED headlight bulbs. I understand many people say not to do it as it blinds others, however I rarely drive at night and even then I live in a very rural area with little traffic. Most of the usage with be during the day with the DRL’s. So does anyone have recommendations for what kind of LED bulb I should go with, one that works good in the reflector style headlight housing? Looking for a simple bulb swap, I think you should be able to just swap the bulbs out right?
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