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About benny12

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  1. Thanks all. CL in my area has similar combos between $800 and $1200. Does anyone one else find it ridiculous they are a $1,495 upgrade from stock? I guess it makes sense when I paid $60 for wheel locks too...
  2. I’m seriously considering putting new wheels and tires on my LTZ. I don’t like the chrome/aluminum on the Graphite Metalic especially with the painted bumpers. Also, I don’t like 20”s, I really don’t need to destroy them off road. What’s a reasonable price range for a set of 4 with Goodyear SRA’s with 9,000 miles? I got to assume they are desirable many owners.
  3. This logic is pretty sound. PS, can you PM me your investment strategy or Investment Manager? I love 12-14% over the life of a typical vehicle loan.
  4. Does the warranty I bought from the dealer (5 year, 100k miles, third party and I can't remember the company right now) cover this?
  5. Good reasoning. Remember, they came to you. I bet they have wiggle room and can do better. They are definitely not coming to you with their best and final offer.
  6. I 100% agree with for a vehicle under $10k. I debate this for more expensive private sales. Not because of the transferring of money, but the hassle (buyer has to get a loan) and mostly the lack of potential buyers. Don't quote me on these numbers: We traded in my wife's 3 year old Maxda CX5 on her new car. Similar vehicles were on lots for $19-21k. Carmax gave me a quote for $15k. Our dealer wanted to give us $14k, I think I got him up to $15 or 16. With the ~8.65 % sales tax we pay the numbers tighten up. Carmax = $16,000 Trade in True Value: $15,500 x 1.0865 = $16,840 Realistic Craigslist Sale = $19,000 Delta CL-Trade in = $2,260 We decided it wasn't worth the $2,200 risk for a vehicle of that value to sit in our driveway waiting for a Craigslist buyer to come through. She felt pretty strongly that anyone that's buying a $20k vehicle is going to do it at a lot, not Craigslist. I'll do a lot for $2k, but at what point is it foolish? Anyone have any experience?
  7. Was that the 16-NA-412? Or something else? I only have trouble with the hard shift from 1 to 2, mine is going to the shop in the near future and would like to deal with it in one visit.
  8. Replacing the rear bumper

    '17, 5k miles. I plan to keep the truck another 95k miles at least, I guess the thing I'm struggling with is this will more than likely happen again. I found this picture in my phone...
  9. Has anyone else gotten a payout from an insurance company for being rear ended? I was hit pretty square on the rear bumper and trailer hitch (no receiver installed), no sheet metal was contacted/affected. I don't anticipate any significant internal damage (a Subaru was sandwiched between the at fault SUV and me) and I can't see any when I crawl underneath. I am probably not going to get it fixed as you need to look pretty hard to find the dings, and frankly most of people moving into the greater Denver area are asshats that didn't learn to drive wherever they came from; I fully expect this to happen again. I just trying to confirm through someone else's experience that I am being fairly compensated.
  10. Wifi

    Sorry, reviving a dead topic. I'm coming up on 3 months of ownership. I rarely use the wifi for streaming/downloading, but I do like the connectivity from my phone to the truck for starting, location (spying on the shop to see if they are actually doing anything or just telling me the chevshake is normal); basically the myLink app. Do I need the wifi service (from At&T) for this? Do I need OnStar for this? Also, can anyone tell me why OnStar is worth the money if I never lock the keys and my phone in my truck?
  11. Popular brand too, thanks for the info.
  12. Can someone recommend a good dial gauge? Has anyone rented one? Or better yet, has anyone sold there GM and want to get rid of their dial gauge?
  13. Need help please

    I did this with a Mercury Sable when I was 16 years old, it has a Reverse poled battery and I wasn't paying attention. It blew the mega fuse, basically a 2" long 1/2" diameter copper fuse located under the hood. I'd start from the battery and work your way out instead of going after the little fuses.

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