If I did again, I'd try to find the black switches with the single red LED dot at top to indicate on. Mine are a little too much red plastic when compared against the dash.
Sounds like they hooked up the HIDs with a Relay Wiring Harness but did not use Capacitors. Let them know in order for HIDs to work correctly in a new Sierra you need both installed.
If you look in post #1 there are wiring diagrams.. print out and show them.
Capacitors have several alternate names such as error code eliminators, CAN-Bus, etc...but they're all the same thing.
So far, no member has reported doing the Sierra's themselves, but the pro guy mentioned which kit he thought would go in the easiest.
There's another topic on here about opening the lights with an oven (vs cutting) if you're interested in being the first to try the DIY retrofit at home. What's the worst that could happen..? ha
ChrisNJ - your projectors are working correctly, as intended. Only thing you can do is adjust the aim. The shutters are not adjustable but projectors are.. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158300-aiming-adjusting-headlights/
The projectors definitely aren't the best quality but yours are functioning as intended by GM. High beams only allow existing light blocked by shutter to now escape (only change is light now allowed above cutoff).
You can aim/adjust the projectors: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158300-aiming-adjusting-headlights/
If you don't want to do behind the grille or in the bumper gap (like mine), they make license plate mounts:
http://www.visionxusa.com/Accessories-License_Plate_Mounts/c14_131/index.html
http://www.rigidindustries.com/mounting-options/40016
So everything's working correctly now?
I wonder why most 2014's have to reverse the single input for the lights to function but a few out there don't. My guess is perhaps there are slight differences in each batch of relay harnesses / capacitors. I know one member actually found his cap had the connector reversed by the manf.. perhaps they mixed up the internal connections on yours. Just one of those things we'll probably never know! ha
I see your point, but for most, it's likely easier just to connect directly to battery with harness. And since the harness contains its own fuse about 6" from battery, no short circuit issues. I'd hate to recommend to the inexperienced to connect to bus/fuse panels and then they somehow really screw their electrical systems. Just my $0.02
You installed a single capacitor between stock output & harness, correct?
Sounds like the CAN-Bus might be bad.. like it's not allowing any of the signal to pass through it. Use a meter & check the wire between CAN-Bus and Relay to verify.