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Found 55 results

  1. **The Sierra & Silverado HID topics have been merged and edited, in an attempt to create one comprehensive HID topic** This topic will cover HID information, HID headlight bulb upgrades, HID fog light bulb upgrades, as well as installing aftermarket HID projectors/bulbs ("retrofit"). This information was last updated on 04/18/14 -----DISCLAIMER----- Automotive lamps, reflective devices, and associated equipment must adhere to the United States §571.108 Standard #108 to be legal for road use (http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regulations/administration/fmcsr/fmcsrruletext.aspx?reg=571.108). Your state or local governments may also impose standards and restrictions on vehicle lighting. If you choose to install HID bulbs and/or projectors, you alone are responsible for compliance and possible legal consequences. -----HID BASICS----- Lumen - a measure of the total visible light emitted by a source Incandescent Bulb – The traditional bulb design which passes electricity through a filament inside a bulb containing an inert gas or a vacuum. The filament heats up and gives off light. Unfortunately, only 5 to 10% of the electricity supplied is converted into light, with the rest being lost as heat. Halogen Bulb – An improved incandescent bulb, which is filled with a Halogen-family gas, allowing it to operate at higher temps and produce more light. The average 9006-type 55watt Halogen headlight bulb produces roughly 1000 lumen. HIR (Halogen Infrared Reflective) Bulb – A further improvement on the incandescent bulb, these Halogen bulbs are given special coatings on the interior of glass which reflect infrared back into the filament, allowing it to run even hotter/brighter than a standard Halogen bulb. The average 9012-type 55watt HIR headlight bulb produces roughly 1700 lumen. HID (High Intensity Discharge) Bulb – A different bulb design from the incandescent, these arc-type bulbs look similar but do not use a heated filament to produce light. Instead, an electrical arc is created between two metal tips in the presence of special gases and vaporized salts contained in a bulb. The electrical arc converts the gases & salts into plasma, producing significantly more light per watt. HID bulbs are often called Xenon because many early HID’s used Xenon gas inside the bulb. The average 9006-type 35watt HID headlight bulb produces over 3000 lumen, while only using two-thirds the power of Halogen bulbs. LED (Light Emitting Diode) – Technically not a bulb, LED’s are a type of semiconductor which produce light through electroluminescence. The short version: electrons jump around and emit photons of light. LED's are very efficient, operate at low temps, and are the future of lighting, but are currently still too expensive to compete with HID’s when it comes to total light output per dollar. Which headlight bulbs do the 2014+ GM trucks use? Silverado - H11 Halogen bulbs for low beams and 9005 Halogen bulbs for high beams. Sierra - 9012 HIR bulbs which function as both the low and high beams. What are projector headlights? Traditional headlights utilize a simple reflector, which results in significant light scatter, similar to a flood light. Projector headlights incorporate a lens forward of the reflector to control the light distribution, resulting in more focused light pattern. They also contain a shutter between the reflector and lens which creates a cutoff line, blocking light above a certain height. Projectors were created to reducing glare to other drivers & pedestrians, as well as reduce white-out in fog & snow. The Silverado's projectors have fixed shutters and function as low beams only (they have a separate traditional headlight for high beams). The Sierra's projectors have movable shutters. The shutter is closed when using low beams and opens when you hit the highs, allowing more light output. This setup is strictly mechanical and the output of the bulb does not change whether using lows or highs. Why upgrade to HID bulbs? Projector headlight systems were originally designed to be used with HID's. Instead of offering HID's in the 2014 trucks, GM opted to go the cheap route and use halogen bulbs instead. The result is headlights many of us consider inadequate, at best. Installing HID bulbs helps to partially correct what many see as a significant design flaw. HID bulbs are not perfect (primarily because of GM's use of inferior lenses and reflectors in the stock projectors) but are a substantial improvement over the stock halogen bulbs. What is a projector retrofit? A projector retrofit is the process of installing HID projectors into vehicles that were originally equipped with standard halogen reflector headlights. It has also come to include any upgrades to a vehicle's existing projectors, whether they be the halogen or HID variety. Aftermarket HID projector retrofits are the best lighting upgrade currently available, but have significantly higher costs and generally require a greater knowledge & skill level to install compared to HID bulb kits. -----HID HEADLIGHT BULB UPGRADE SHOPPING LIST----- Three main components are required for HID install: (1) HID Kit, (1) Relay Wiring Harness, (1) Pair of Capacitors / Code Eliminators / CAN-Bus (1) HID Kit This HID kit will include two HID bulbs and two ballasts (ballasts regulate the amount of current flowing to the HID bulbs). When ordering, you must specify the bulb number, wattage, and color temp: Bulb Number: Silverado - H11 kit Sierra - 9006 or 9012 kit Wattage: The majority of HID kits come in either 35 watt or 55 watt. I personally recommend the 35 watt, which are 150% brighter than the stock bulbs, but not too bright that they draw unwanted attention to your truck or blind other drivers. There are a few members on here running 55 watt kits with no heat/melting issues. Color Temp: The actual color of the light, measured in Kelvin. 3500K is stock yellow, 4500K to 5000K is white, and 6000K is white with hints of blue. Color temps of 7000K & above are very blue/purple and are definitely not recommended. (1) HID Relay Harness The relay harness will consist of relay(s) and the necessary wiring to connect to it to the battery, ballasts, and stock headlight output(s). This harness allows the HID's to run straight off the battery and is required for a proper installation. (1 to 2) Capacitor(s) / Error Code Eliminator(s) / CAN-Bus On the 2014's, the factory headlight wiring contains a type of "electronic noise" known as PWM (pulse-width modulation). When PWN is introduced to the relay or ballasts, it often causes the HID's to flicker/fail and the relay to make a loud buzzing sound. Capacitors correct this issue by filtering out the PWN and passing along a clean signal to the relay/ballasts. If you purchase a single input harness, you need (1) capacitor to complete a proper install. If you purchase a dual input harness, you need (2) capacitors to complete a proper install. That said, the vast majority of vendors only sell them in pairs. -----HID HEADLIGHT BULB BRANDS & VENDORS----- Morimoto (made in South Korea) Morimoto's are the Mercedes of HID's. High quality stuff but at a high premium. If you decide to go with Morimoto's, you need to buy the HID kit and choose the included HD relay harness option. You'll also need to purchase separately a pair of CAN-Bus error code eliminators. (1) HID Kit with included HD Relay Harness + (1) pair of CAN-Bus = $180 + S&H http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ DDM (made in China) DDM is a US vendor that drop ships HID kits straight from the factory in China. On the plus side, you save a ton of money on the price, but the trade off is their shipping takes 2 to 3 weeks. Normally, I try to stay away from cheap chinese electronics, but myself and many others on this forum have been using DDM for years with no issues. I highly recommend their kits as an economical alternative to Morimoto. That said, a few forum members have reported receiving bad ballasts that failed to ignite right out the box (based on what I've seen on the forum, I'd say it's 1 in 50). DDM will send you a free replacement, but you do have to wait 2 more weeks. I don't think I've seen any members report bulb/ballast failures past the initial install. If you're worried about being that 1 in 50, you can go with a higher-end brand HID kit or you could order two DDM HID kits and have plenty of spare parts (that's what I do, because two DDM kits are still half the price of one high-end brand kit). **I do not have any direct interaction with DDM, other than as a HID customer, nor am I paid/compensated for recommending their products - I'm simply think it's a good deal** (1) HID Kit + (1) Relay Harness + (1) pair of Capacitors = $55 + S&H http://www.ddmtuning.com/ 250MotorSportz (made in China?) I really don't know much about this company or their HIDs Forum member icecrm is affiliated with them and he posted a really good "How To" HID install with pics further down in this topic. (1) HID Kit + (1) Relay Harness + (1) pair of Capacitors = $170 + S&H http://www.250motorsportz.ca/ Amazon / eBay (made in China) You can find all kinds of different brands/vendors on Amazon, eBay, and other online retailers. There's no "wrong" brand to buy, as the majority are all made in China anyway. Most people on the forum are either Morimoto or DDM, but I'm definitely not saying you should only choose from those! -----HID HEADLIGHT BULB INSTALLATION----- When completed correctly, installing HIDs is a simple process that makes a dramatic improvement. No kit out there will be a 100% plug-n-play setup because of the 2014's sealed headlight design. Current kits are roughly 75% plug-n-play, mainly involving connecting plugs and installing +/- leads to battery/grounds. The 25% exception exists because all HID kits will require the drilling of a small hole in the headlights' rear-facing removable caps to allow the bulbs wiring to reach the ballasts. It's not difficult by any means and, because the caps are removable, you can buy replacements if you ever decide to remove your HIDs in the future. Testing - Before beginning any install, you should test your bulbs and ballasts! The last thing you want to do is go to all the trouble of installing everything, only to find out you have a bad component. With the engine off, lay out the parts on the radiator cover and make all the necessary connections. For the test, use the driver's side factory headlight output, since it's the less difficult to access. It's often also easier to use jumper cables to connect the +/- for this temporary setup. Once you're ready, test the lights with the engine off and then with the engine on. If possible, do in daylight to test DRL activation and then cover light sensor on dash to simulate night to test auto-headlights. Wiring - In order to access the rear of passenger headlight and complete a proper install, you will need to raise the air box's cover and remove the lower portion of box and filter. You can leave the top attached to the intake tube and just move it out the way while working. The cover is held on with (4) screws. The lower box is held in with rubber plugs along the bottom... just yank straight up on box to remove. There are several different styles of wiring harness out there, but whichever you end up with it's important to determine if it's a Single Input or Dual Input harness. Each has a slightly different wiring method. -Single input harness will have two headlight-type plugs for the ballasts and a third input designed to connect to the stock headlight source. You must flip/reverse the connection between the stock signal and capacitor to account for the truck's reversed polarity. From the capacitor, you'll then connect relay, to ballasts, then to bulbs (see attached diagram) -Dual input harness will have two headlight-type plugs for the ballasts and two inputs designed to connect to the both stock headlight sources. You will not flip any connections during wiring. The stock signals connect normally to capacitors, who then connect to relay, to ballasts, then to bulbs (see attached diagram) Regardless of which you have, just remember the flow should be "Stock Signal ---> Capacitor ---> Relay ---> Ballasts ---> Bulbs" Access Holes - Most HID bulbs come with rubber grommets pre-installed on their wiring. If yours didn't, you can pick the up at a parts store. Basically you just drill the appropriate sized hole removable cap, pass through wiring, and secure the grommet in the hole. You might also consider using butyl rubber or silicone around the grommet for extra moisture protection. (icecrm has a good picture of this in his post later down this topic). Bulbs - This should go without saying but never touch the glass part of the headlight bulbs, HID or Halogen! The oils on your fingers may cause them to shatter when they head up. Many HID kits include additional O-rings, so that you can adjust the fit of the bulb in the socket. If your kit did not include any, and you feel the bulb isn't seating correctly, you can pick up spares at any parts store. Keep in mind however, the majority of HID bulbs will never fit as tight/snugly as the stock halogen bulbs, so don't fret too much. It's important to note there is a certain orientation in which the bulbs must be positioned when inserting into the stock housing. I can't remember the exact was to insert them as it's been a good while since I did mine, but there's a simple way to check if your are correct. When parked about 10 feet from a wall, if you notice little diamonds of light above the cut-off line, it means you need to rotate the bulbs' orientation slightly (if you thumb is at the 9 o'clock position when removing, without changing grip, try inserting the bulb with your thumb at 12 or 1 o'clock). If you're not sure about your wiring harness, a specific connection, or anything else, feel free to shoot me a message.
  2. Does anyone know if the OEM HID headlight housings, ballast, etc are plug-and-play? If I found a 2015 donor truck with OEM HID headlights, could I easily swap the housings with my halogen housings? Disconnect the HID harness/ballast and install them on my truck?
  3. Hey all, I own a 2018 Silverado 2500HD LTZ Z71...The damn headlights are that terrible yellow color, Did Chevy not put LED lights on any of the 2500 models? Has anyone replaced the whole light assembly or even just bulbs to achieve the clearer look? If so please share and checkout the photo below of my headlights compared to the illuminated bow tie. Thanks for the help.
  4. Is there a way to tell if a 2015 Silverado LTZ came with factory HID bulbs? I got a used LTZ that has factory projector headlights but the bulbs in it when I got it were halogen. I’m trying to put LED’s or HID’s in and want to do it as easily and cheaply as possible.
  5. I have a pair of factory headlights with diode dynamics switchback leds and morimoto hids. The hids are incredibly bright and the switch leds are bright as well. Also installed is the Klearz amber delete. The amber you see in the pic is an amber colored bulb. Can ship, buyer pays shipping cost. I can box them in the Anzo headlight boxes. $500.00 OBO
  6. I have a pair of factory headlights with diode dynamics switchback leds and morimoto hids. The hids are incredibly bright and the switch leds are bright as well. Also installed is the Klearz amber delete. The amber you see in the pic is an amber colored bulb. Can ship, buyer pays shipping cost. I can box them in the Anzo headlight boxes. $500.00 OBO
  7. I have a 2002 Sierra Z71. I see a lot of options online for aftermarket headlights, but the reviews are terrible. Does anyone have a link to some known GOOD options? Thanks in advance!
  8. Selling my 2014 GMC head lights. They have clear in place of amber lens. See photos They also have Diode Dynamics LED switchback kit. Headlights come with Morimoto HID 35 watt 6000k HID lights. Issues are: moisture in passenger side lights. Moisture source is in the back where the hid and led wiring goes through the drilled hole in the center of the removable cover. The right (passenger side) light white leds sometimes does come on all the time. Rare, noticed it a dozen times or so. The switchback turn signal always works. Diode Dynamics sent me a complete set to replace the problem with the passenger side. Included but not been installed. (still in box) Sorry for the pics showing up sideways! $840 for the pair
  9. Anyone running Xenondepot HIDs with PWM and no relay harness? I currently have the Extreme pro LED that uses the PWM to keep a constant power to them just wondered if I can run them on my HID alone without the need for the extra wiring from relays. Thanks
  10. Problem Description: Headlights turns-On and sometimes does not w/ DRL Headlights turns-Off while driving and then comes back On Headlight does not turn-On at initial startup and then turns-On while driving All other lights are functional, Tail Lights Brake light and Reverse are Ok All Turn Signals w/ Hazards are Ok Fog lights (Morimoto XB LED's) are Ok Action: Taken to a reputable shop to troubleshoot; of course the lights were functional the entire time during the visit; issue re-occured later during that day on my way home from work. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  11. I recently bought a 2015 blacked out sierra. Base model. And I feel(like others on here) the headlights were inadequate. Furthermore, my passenger bulb just went out. So I was curious what ideas and experiences others have had with bulb upgrades or replacements? I do not know much of the workings of the stock headlights, but they do have the projector housing. I am going to check out retrofitsource, because I would like a bright HID setup or something. I would also like to add angel eyes to the housing. I have seen some sites to purchase from, so any input on that would be appreciated. thanks, Matt
  12. I'm sure this has been talked about before on this forum but I'm new and haven't had a chance to fully read through all the articles. Anyways, does anyone recommend any LED headlight bulbs? Currently I'm running HIDs in my Lows, Highs, and Fogs from Kensun on Amazon. Fogs and Highs work flawlessly, but my Lows have been pissing me off since I installed them. I am always having trouble out of them either flickering and going out or just not coming on unless I turn the headlights off then on again. I've replaced ballasts, installed anti-flicker devices, installed a relay harness, everything. I'm just fed up at this point. Lol I am looking at buying these for my fogs to try out. Cheap enough and have good reviews on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOA8NCU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A126Q4T86JLNL&psc=1 But I'm looking at these for my Lows. They look like they may fit fine behind the dust cap and also have many good reviews. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6NZ7D8/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3NZKZYVZPUD1T Anybody have any good experience using this style of LED bulb? Or possibly any other affordable option someone is using? Any input would be great. Thanks!
  13. Putting together a little Light guide similar to what MotoMedic did for the Silverados. More details to come on this with swaps and some photos (Scroll down a few posts). (Yukon and Yukon XL Only Low, High, fog, license and back-up apply as GMC has more OEM LED handling the others). Some of these may apply to 2014 model year but the bulb size is different like the 2014 Yukons. Tutorial videos (Courtesy of CarCareKiosk and some random dude on YouTube) reflect as: * Chevrolet ** GMC Side Note: OEM HID Color is approximately 4200-4300K. LuciasMaximus and I are playing around with color matching the factory LED DRL. The factory LED DRL appears to be between 5500K-6000K color wise. Suburban*/Tahoe*/Yukon**/Yukon XL**: Low Beam Lights w/HID*,** - D3S Low Beam Lights*,** - H11 (H11-55W) Replace Low Beam Bulb Tutorial * Replace Low Beam Bulb Tutorial ** High Beam Lights*,** - 9005 (HB3) Replace High Beam Bulb Tutorial * Replace High Beam Bulb Tutorial ** Front turn signal* - 7440NA Replace Front Turn Signal Bulb Tutorial * Fog Lights*,** - PSX26W - (12278 / 12278C1 / H28W) Replace Fog Light Bulb Tutorial * Replace Fog Light Bulb Tutorial ** Back-up Lights / Reverse Lights*,** - 921 (921W / W16W) Replace Back-up/Reverse Light Tutorial * Replace Back-up/Reverse Light Tutorial ** License Plate Lights*,** - 194 (194W / 12961) Replace License Plate Bulb Tutorial *, ** (Starts at 0:30) Rear Turn/Stop Lights* - 7440 (7440W) Replace Rear Turn/Stop Bulbs Tutorial *
  14. hey guys, i have a 2015 GMC Sierra SLE. I purchased the Morimoto Elite 35w HID kit, with the HD Relay and the Anti-Flicker Capacitor Link from retrofitsource back on 10/6/2016. The things have been perfect ever since installing them, until about a week ago. When I got in the truck to head to work, I noticed the headlights didn't turn on like normal. I tried to flip the switch on and off, and got nothing at all. I turned off the truck, got out, closed the door, waited about 5 minutes, then tried to start it again. The lights came on just fine, no issues. Yesterday, I got in the truck to head to a family gathering, and they wouldn't turn on again. I did the same routine, but this time, nothing. i can't get anything at all to come on. I spent about an hour going through my connections to make sure a wire didn't come lose anywhere, and everything seems to be fine. I checked all inline fuses, and all fuses in the fuse boxes, and none were blown. I can't really swap ballasts and bulbs from driver to passenger side since neither is working. Any ideas on what i can try next? i would greatly appreciate any help! Thanks, Captain
  15. I have a 2014 Gmc Sierra SLT and I am trying to figure out the dimensions of the stock OEM headlight projector lens? Just the actual lens itself? Does anyone have 1 lying around or if they know of anyone that does that would be awesome. I think it's a 3 inch but I really need to know the focal length which is from the flat part to the top of the round part. All help is appreciated!
  16. I have been skimming of headlight complaints on these trucks since 2015. Whats the short summary? I had a 2010 Silverado and that truck had amazing headlights. Like the best ever. I had a 2015 Silverado and the head lights seemed fine. Clearly not as good as 2010 but they worked fine for me. I just bought a 2018 Sierra with HID head lights and I am trying to figure out if there will be an issue. Some say to replace them with LEDs. Some say you cannot replace them with LEDs. Some reviews say the 2018 HIDs are amazing and were improved. Im basically lost with all the internet ramblings. Thanks.
  17. Please help. Just replaced factory headlight assemblies and bulbs in a 2016 Chevy Silverado Rally Edition (broken in an accident) with Anzo 111375 headlight assemblies and HID bulbs/ballast (Phillips). Lights work fine (hi and low), the LED running lights work, but my battery keeps going dead overnight. (Yes, the running lights are turned off.) Chevy dealership/service department says there's a 3000 mA draw from the headlights when turned off. Recommends buying GM headlight assemblies ($860 apiece). Anzo says they've never had a problem. Said possibly bad circuitry in one of the lights. Chevy mechanic says you can't unplug one to identify which one because it creates an open circuit. Others have said hooey. Any thoughts on the problem and how to fix?! I can't return the Anzo lights because I had them painted. Don't want to buy another set if they won't work either. Anything I can do?
  18. Can anyone tell me where the vertical adjustment screws for the low beam projector on a 2016 suburban with stock halogens are? I recently retrofit the low beam bulbs (which are ridiculously dim) with Morimoto HIDs and need to lower the beams a bit. The Left/Right adjustment is on the back of the assembly, clearly marked and easy to find, but I have not been able to find any adjustment on the headlamp assembly for vertical adjustment, even after removing the plastic air dam that covers the top of the headlamp assemblies. Any suggestions/information much appreciated, Justin
  19. Ok, I think this is the last of my parts from recently selling my Silverado. Selling a pair of custom bi-xenon HID projector headlights for 2007.5 - 2013 Silverados. All projector parts are Morimoto brand. Bulb temperature is 5500K (close to pure white). These lights have been awesome, and never had any issues (leaks, etc.). Asking for $500 shipped. You can find a similar set online for $695, so I feel like this is a good deal. Edit: Forgot to mention that all harnesses, relays and ballasts are included.
  20. Hey everyone, first off thanks for the great site. I have been doing a ton of reading and enjoying everyone's vehicles. I have done a bunch of searching before asking this question but seem to be getting a couple different answers, so I thought I would ask it anyways. I just purchased a 2017 Silverado LT 4x4. From what I understand the truck comes equipped with LED fog lights and 25 watt HID Hi and Lo beams. These are the D5S bulbs, if I have read correctly. My question is, what HID bulb do I purchase to get the same white color as my LED running rights and LED fog lights? Do I need to get a higher wattage bulb with a 5000k+ temp range? I really don't want to go the direction of swapping to the LTZ headlight assembly at this time but it would look good ;) Thank you for your help in advance. Chris
  21. First off, I'd like to say I am in no way sponsored by any companies or brands represented in this write up. It is simply a 3rd party review and how to. Below are a couple of videos I wanted to share in here on how to install an HID kit for a 2014/2015 Sierra (1500's, it may work on some 2015 2500HD's, but YMMV). I am using a kit made by The Retrofit Source. They specially made this kit with K2 1500 Sierra's in mind. It comes complete with: -Choice of 35watt or 55watt ballasts, high quality Morimoto pieces. I am using 35watt units. -Choice of 3000k, 4500k, 5000k, 6000k HID bulbs (also include alcohol wipes to clean bulbs before installation, nice touch) --- I used a 4500K bulb, which is classified as "warm white" (slightly white-blue at startup, but after about 15-20 seconds becomes the "warm white" color) -Relay Harness w/ built in fuse. This harness has nice ring connectors to connect to battery + and - -Canbus harness (error code eliminator) -Igniter harness x2 -ballasts to bulb harness w/ rubber grommet to seal headlight dust covers. x2 Overall, i thought the kit was very well constructed. High quality braided wiring, all shrink wrapped, potted electronics, waterproof connectors. All A+ quality. I got this kit for $170 off their website, but if you make an account, and load the kit into your cart, then leave it a few days, they will send you a coupon code for 10% off. Not a bad deal IMHO. Link to the Sellers website https://www.theretrofitsource.com/ Link to the specific kit https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-hid-system-sierra-low-beam.html?carDisplay=2014+GMC+Sierra++%28Projectors%29&preselect=4.1.3-HARN-RELAY-9012%2CXB-BALLAST-35%2C5.3.3-XB3-9012-45 It does require you drill a hole in the dust covers to get the wires to pass through, but it is not hard and can be done with a cordless drill and a 7/8" hole bit. First video is a review of the kit by itself: This next video is the actual installation of the kit And this final video is how to properly aim your headlights (made a few months ago before I had HID's but the concept is the same) Enjoy. Hopefully these videos help some folks out! FINAL VERDICT -Good upgrade in light output using stock projectors. Not very hard to install, but I will still rate it 3.5/5 on a scale of difficulty. 5 being hardest. Just because it requires some work with electronics, which not everyone is comfortable doing. I am very happy with the end result. There is a lot more clean white light out on the road and I can see a lot better on dark roads. Properly aimed, I should not be blinding any other drivers. Post below with questions.
  22. This requires the use of a relay harness (which I recommend anyway) and a 4700uF capacitor Ok, When DRL's are active, you car is supplying the following signal to your driving lights: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ +12v _________________ Ground That's Correct, it 'Pulses' the current to lower the intensity of the light. This works perfectly for Filament bulbs, as you are simply heating a filament which produces the light. But when sent to the relay, it will cause the relay to latch and unlatch repeatedly which will cause flicker. HID's however, need a constant current flow to them, such as the following: _________________ +12v _________________ Ground Now, most people are over complicating things, by making the Fog's DRLs and such, but I don't want to fiddle around with the lights everytime I get in the car, so this is what needs to be done to be able to keep the Auto function of the headlights. We will, by the use of capacitors, turn the DRL's Pulsing current -_-_-_ into a smooth, constant flow -------- So, we aren't relocating the DRL's, we are simply going to use HID's as DRL's AND Driving lights. Perfect! This is exactly how most Audi's and BMW's function anyways. So, here is the miracle solution: Using a 4700uF (That's microfarad) capacitor (A pair should run you 4-5 bucks at most) we are smoothing out the Pulses and sending a constant supply to the Relay. This is called a smoothing or reservoir capacitor. What it does, is on a Positive pulse, it charges, and in between pulses it slowly discharges. The bigger the capacitor, the slower the discharge: Without Capacitor: With Capacitor: We can see after the capacitor, we have an almost linear voltage. How do we make this as linear as possible? By using a capacitor as big as the 4700uF. This keeps the relay latched so that it doesn't interrupt the current flow to the ballast.I do NOT recommended using this without a relay, you shouldn't put this in parallel with the ballast itself. And for when the driving lights go on, the constant +12v will simply keep the capacitor charged and this won't affect system performance as it basically will stay there fully charged until it can discharge. And when you cut power to the light, the capacitor will discharge quickly enough as to not allow the relay to flicker. The ballast see's it as the current beeing shutoff and not a pulsing current. So, all you need to do, it simply splice a capacitor between the +12V and GROUND wire leading to the Latching relay, such as my diagram below shows: Enjoy! Credit to mtlsportgt on mazda3forums.com
  23. Hello fellow GM truck owners. My pops owns a 2015 Silverado LT and he's been talking about getting some new headlights and I figured it would be a perfect father day gift if I just got them for him. I would love some feedback on what you guys would suggest. He's picky when it comes to his truck (as most of us are) and he says he would want some light blue almost white kind of beam not blinding bright but at least as bright or a bit brighter than stock. I am pretty sure the stock ones are just regular halogens (don't quote me on that) but I am also not sure wether to go HID or LED. It's very specific but any feedback is welcomed! Pics would be appreciated Thanks.
  24. I just brought a 2014 Chevy Silverado LT that comes with the original headlight lamps. I'm looking to upgrade to some projectors with HID to max light output. Are there any options out there that comes equip with HID that you can just plug and play to original oem plugs?
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