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Found 24 results

  1. I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 LTZ that came with factory LED tail lights. I recently bought a set of Morimoto XB LED tail lights that are not intended for factory LED trucks. I also purchased a set of tail light harness for a non-LTZ Silverado (GM Part #’s 23295977 and 23295978) so it would be a plug and play installation. Everything works (running lights, brake lights, reverse) but I have hyper flash on the turn signals. I have more pics and video of the issue on my instagram - @pgsulins Here is a list of the things I unsuccessfully tired to correct the issue: 1. Using the non-LTZ wiring harness, I installed 50w 6 ohm resistors with no luck 2. Using the non-LTZ wiring harness, I disconnected the Morimoto resistors that came on the tail lights and installed 50w 6 ohm resistors with no luck 3. I hacked into the LTZ wiring harness with and without added resistors keeping the Morimoto resistors plugged in with no luck 4. I hacked into the LTZ wiring harness with and without added resistors disconnecting the Morimoto resistors with no luck 5. I disconnected the Morimoto tail lights and installed incandescent bulbs into the non-LTZ harness and still get hyper flash 6. I tried wiring the Morimoto tail lights directly to the trailer hook up and still get the hyper flash 7. I connected the factory LED tail lights using the correct harness and then wired the Mormimoto tail lights to the trailer hook up and the hyper flash stopped 8. I called Morimoto and they were not helpful 9. I called two Chevy dealerships and asked if they could eliminate the error code but they were unwilling to touch it Attempts #5 and #7 lead me to believe there are some electronics in the actual factory LED tail lights that the computer needs to read in order to avoid the hyper flash. I say this because there should be no hyper flash with attempt #5 because I am using a stock set up and attempt #7 eliminates the hyper flash but requires the stock LED tail lights to be hooked up. I realize my issue is self-inflicted due to these lights not be intended for my truck but I love the look of these tail lights and was willing to give it a try. I know Recon sells tail lights that are intended for trucks that came equipped with factory LED tails so someone has been able to get working equipment on this truck but I’m out of ideas. Does anyone have any info that could help? Thank you! Paul
  2. Looking for recommendations on aftermarket LED tail lights for my 2019 1500 LD, same body style as the 14s-18s. (Non factory led) I replaced the reverse lights with diode dynamics led bulb but the stock housings suck and barely throw any light. So Im looking for something all LED. I like the morimoto xb led tail lights but theyre kind of pricey at $475. Does anyone have a discount on those or anything? Let me know what you guys have and if you like what you have or not! Thanks in advance!
  3. I just upgraded the HID bulbs in my 2016 Silverado. The stock 25W HIDs were not cutting it for me. I installed a set of 35W Morimoto D5S bulbs and they are much better. Check out my install video below.
  4. Anybody use these or have any tips for these? I've got them being delivered this week. Supposed to work well in the regular (non-projector) style headlights that my Silverado has. Getting tired of changing the Silverstar bulbs every year, and a little extra light never hurt. LINK
  5. I have a pair of factory headlights with diode dynamics switchback leds and morimoto hids. The hids are incredibly bright and the switch leds are bright as well. Also installed is the Klearz amber delete. The amber you see in the pic is an amber colored bulb. Can ship, buyer pays shipping cost. I can box them in the Anzo headlight boxes. $500.00 OBO
  6. I have a pair of factory headlights with diode dynamics switchback leds and morimoto hids. The hids are incredibly bright and the switch leds are bright as well. Also installed is the Klearz amber delete. The amber you see in the pic is an amber colored bulb. Can ship, buyer pays shipping cost. I can box them in the Anzo headlight boxes. $500.00 OBO
  7. Selling my 2014 GMC head lights. They have clear in place of amber lens. See photos They also have Diode Dynamics LED switchback kit. Headlights come with Morimoto HID 35 watt 6000k HID lights. Issues are: moisture in passenger side lights. Moisture source is in the back where the hid and led wiring goes through the drilled hole in the center of the removable cover. The right (passenger side) light white leds sometimes does come on all the time. Rare, noticed it a dozen times or so. The switchback turn signal always works. Diode Dynamics sent me a complete set to replace the problem with the passenger side. Included but not been installed. (still in box) Sorry for the pics showing up sideways! $840 for the pair
  8. For clarification: I am not trying to sell these or make any money. Nor am I affiliated with The Retrofit Source. If there is a sponsor on this board that is able to work on a group buy price then feel free chime in. Since these replacement fogs are the same for the G8 and 2010-2013 Camaro, I was looking for some people to get into a group buy. They're currently at $200 and The Retrofit Source agreed to $160 if we can get at least 25 people. They also come with a 10-year warranty. So far, as of 05/27/2016, the interest is as follows at Camaro5: CamALot Eddiefuzz - maybe? foo.fighter Arogg Kleen At G8Board: orkrule1 s/c'd cav 6 litre GXP25 MGMGXP di11avou JessMan (for G8) CamaroSS27 Boosted97 GT_KEN Fiesty At GM-Trucks: BIGDOGx Johnny13 (square housings) thetruck454 (square housings) kkmitchell5 Jessman (for '15 Sierra) schultzy375 chriscote781 moody1221 CptMcSaug (square housings) That's 25 people total. New minimum goal of 10 reached. This is happening very soon. The vendor is aware of this and just needs me to provide information about how many lights and which type. After this post I will provide the vendor with the total list so far. Here are the LED fog light housings that are a direct replacement: Chevrolet: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-headlight-fog-light-housings/morimoto-xb-led-fog-lights-chevy.html#.V0W4HfkrJYI "REPLACES CHEVROLET PART #: GM2590104 Avalanche 2007-2015 Suburban 2007-2014 Silverado (round fogs) 2014-2015 Tahoe 2007-2014 (round fogs) Camaro 2010-2013" GMC: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-headlight-fog-light-housings/morimoto-xb-led-fog-lights-type-gm-h16.html#.V0WzbfkrJYI "REPLACES GMC PART #: 25866496 Sierra 2014-2015 Sierra 2500 2014-2016 Canyon 2015+ Yukon 2007-2014 Acadia 2007-2012" Pontiac: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-headlight-fog-light-housings/morimoto-xb-led-fog-lights-pontiac.html#.V0XJfvkrJYI "REPLACES PONTIAC PART #: GM2590104 G6 2010 G8 2008-2009" Pictures installed on a Camaro: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9111375&postcount=16 EDIT: Updated the list.
  9. hey guys, i have a 2015 GMC Sierra SLE. I purchased the Morimoto Elite 35w HID kit, with the HD Relay and the Anti-Flicker Capacitor Link from retrofitsource back on 10/6/2016. The things have been perfect ever since installing them, until about a week ago. When I got in the truck to head to work, I noticed the headlights didn't turn on like normal. I tried to flip the switch on and off, and got nothing at all. I turned off the truck, got out, closed the door, waited about 5 minutes, then tried to start it again. The lights came on just fine, no issues. Yesterday, I got in the truck to head to a family gathering, and they wouldn't turn on again. I did the same routine, but this time, nothing. i can't get anything at all to come on. I spent about an hour going through my connections to make sure a wire didn't come lose anywhere, and everything seems to be fine. I checked all inline fuses, and all fuses in the fuse boxes, and none were blown. I can't really swap ballasts and bulbs from driver to passenger side since neither is working. Any ideas on what i can try next? i would greatly appreciate any help! Thanks, Captain
  10. Current forward illumination: Headlights - Morimoto 35w w/4300K 5800 – 6200 Lumens https://www.theretrofitsource.com/all-products/2014-sierra-morimoto-elite.html?carDisplay=2014+GMC+Sierra+%28w%2F+Projector+Lights%29&preselect=47338&preselect_restrict=1 Fogs - Rigid DOT Fogs 1760 - Lumens each http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/50481 AUX Rigid SRQ-2 HI/Lo 3096 – Lumens - High 607 – Lumens - Low http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/91531h Headlights (New) Morimoto 50w w/4500K 9100 – 9700 - Lumens https://www.theretrofitsource.com/all-products/2014-sierra-morimoto-elite.html?carDisplay=2014+GMC+Sierra+%28w%2F+Projector+Lights%29&preselect=47338&preselect_restrict=1 My first observation is that everything was very well packaged, the only minor change I would make would be to wrap the bulbs in bubble wrap as they are the most fragile and critical component. A point that was reinforced to me when the Delivery person fumbled the box and dropped it on my driveway while handing it to my daughter, and yes my daughter than dropped the box a second time while handing to me. LOL Once opened it is quite clear that this kit is far more refined than the previous TRS Kit I bought 2 year ago: Old HID Kit: 9012 MORIMOTO Elite HID System: Ballasts - 3Five DSP Harness Type - HD Relay Bulbs – 3Five 4,300 Capacitor Link Extra Set of Bulb's (better to have local than be SOL) New HID Kit: 2014+ SIERRA: MORIMOTO ELITE – 50W Ballasts - 50w/AMP: Morimoto XB Ballast Harness Type - HD Relay 9005/9006 Morimoto Anti-Flicker Capacitor Link Bulbs – 9012: XB 4500K Wire Harness Extension – 9006 Extension The HD Harness has been significantly improved and only need a single ground, as opposed to the original kit that had 3 grounding points. It was also quite nice that each wire was pre-labelled, which simplifies the install. In fact it took me longer to uninstall the old kit than it did to install the new one. It took me about an hour get everything hooked up, but I still need to do some clean up as my CAI make it a bit more tricky to run / secure / hide all of the wiring. I did noticed that the Test Lead and Extension were missing from the box which was a bummer, however I was able to get everything installed without issue. Lights powered up the first time with no issue and wow what a difference over the old 35w kit, the beam pattern is now laser sharp. Great Job TRS! PRO’s: HD Harness Wires are all pre-labeled Heat shrink and loom assembled by a pro Less grounds to worry about HD radio interference is gone I can bloody see more than 25ft in front of my truck!! Improvements: HD Harness Wire Labels are cheap and will fall off, given the awesome heat shrink and loom used, why not just use color coded heat shrink on the ends as labels, this would look clean, and last forever. (Green to Green, Red to Red, etc) The Test Lead & Extension called out in the Standard Parts were not included in the box None of the other component wires are labeled. The CAP Link is a square box, which makes it a bit awkward to securely mount, a Screw Tab would be nice. The Drivers Side Ballets Lead is about 8 inches to short and limits mounting of the HD relay, thus requiring an extension. From a Manufacturing perspective, would it not be more cost effective to just make the primary lead longer, vs. having to create, package, store, ship, a separate extension? The headlight Grommets provided are of a lesser quality then my old kit. Rubber vs silicone gasket
  11. Selling my Sierra Spec Morimoto HID kit. I am looking for $125 shipped, or $105 local pickup. This kit will fit any 2014/2015 Sierra 1500. Possibly the 14-17 Sierra HD's, but I'm not positive about that. Only selling because I traded in the truck. Installed back in December of '15. The kit worked perfect, I never had any problems with it. ABSOLUTELY the best upgrade I did to the truck. These lights are impressive to say the least. This is the whole kit you would get from Morimoto with 35w ballasts, 5500k bulbs, HD relay's, anti-flicker capacitor, etc... Also includes is the OEM headlight assembly caps. I installed the rubber grommets for the kit through them and then siliconed them, so they're water tight. The bulbs have never been touched and have the insulation currently around them. I do not have the installation instructions for the kit still, but you can find them on Morimoto's website, on Youtube, or possibly somewhere here on the forum.
  12. Well I picked this truck up on October 28th of last year and so far I have managed to take it from a bone stock luxury truck to something that reminds me of how I thought it should come from the factory if I ever was able to get a Denali. Almost like a John moss inspired rendition of the K2 Denali. Anyway off to the specs. 2015 Sierra Denali short bed crew cab L86/8l90/3.23 Started out by adding weather tech rain guards and floor mats. I couldn't stand the dead quiet exhaust mixed with the timbre of the "active exhaust valve"....what a joke. So I hacked the muffler and flapper and welded a straight pipe in is place Then added the pace Edwards full metal jackrabbit. After that the puny tires gave way at 5500 miles for a set of 285/55 20 bfg ko2's Had the front windows tinted 20% and a 5" glare strip Next came the kicker substage and vled headlights and fogs Followed by a suspensionmaxx 2.5/1 lift kit. Then Christmastime hit and I was actually able to sway my mother and father (I'm 31 not 21 so I really didn't expect them to feed my addiction like they used too lol)into getting me an afe momentum hd intake system. My wife got me a trinity including lews tuning services. Things are going swimmingly. Mbrp cat back went on next and things really started working together well. My trinity was showing 5.4-5.5 0-60 with an awd launch. Next came the long tube headers/off road y. And more tuning. It is at this point (minutes after flashing my post header wot tune in). That I ran 5.15 seconds 0-60 in auto 4wd shifting at ~6300(2-3 not 1-2 I hit the damn limiter every time I try to hold first)also added Taylor wires Switched to Mobil 1 5w20 at this point since we bumped the rev limiter up to 6500 and I play up there quite a bit. Neighbors complained about the noise(rightfully so it was LOUD) so I installed a spin tech 9000 series and an aeroturbine 3535xl into the mbrp catback. Which I highly recommend. Deepest tone I've ever heard out of a sub 500" v8 and as smooth as Mesa boogie distortion. 170 degree thermostat installed, which led to me discovering what a few others had already- that the temp gauge in the digital cluster is no more than a cartoon for pencil pushers and desk jockeys to confide in. Dash command showed 172 while the gauge showed 210 lol I trust in obd sensor data over the gauge at all times this just proves it in an extreme sense. At this point I let my redneck roots outweigh my racing bloodline and "got some more tar under there". 295 60 20 cooper stt pro's which I'm sure I'll love whenever I finally decide the fun off roading is worth the hard work cleaning up the next day. But at this point the truck has 15k miles so I'm sure that the coopers will be long gone before this truck is even broken in. I love them and hate them at the same time. Don't need them at any point(the ko2's drove better in every way and I never stuck them) So anyway I'm butt hurt that my tires are heavy and kinda wobbly and rub but they do look like they can go through some mud and that's the cliche look around here so I did it there are you happy!!!lol Ok but no amount of tire buyers remorse can stop this project. There was way to much chrome in little blips and semi perpendicular lines all over the truck and on a dark color that just looks retarted. Sorry to you people who say you like it but you may be in denial and just to afraid that it won't look right or maybe you are just cheap and lazy idunno. No offense to anyone it's late and I have now taken my meds lol. Oh yeah too many chrome blips. I took care of that by stripping the gmc and Sierra emblem on the t gate and had emblem pro's make me a black chrome version of their l86 6.2 emblem Also plastidipped the Denali emblems and the chrome door side molding in anthracite. Used ACdelco Rattle can iridium to do the mirror caps along with a few thin coats of perfect match clear(it turned out really matte looking but very even to the point I love it, I think it was the humidity that day) Used the same paint on the doorhandles and several coats of the clear on a dry windless sunny day which ended up matching the facory paint perfectly in color and luster. Best rattle canning I've ever done if I do say so myself. The vled's were a mild sidestep/upgrade to the poor factory Phillips hir (I tried the vosla bulbs too but they didn't make enough of an improvement to warrant keeping them so put them in my toolbox, they will probably get shattered in there lol. Latest upgrade consists of Morimoto 55w 5500k headlights and lmz 25 watt fogs. Vleds in the tag lights cargo lights and reverse lights. Removed steps in anticipation of the arrival of rb10's Sorry for the pics out of order I'll figure that out later pending: 1.75" bora wheel spacers are on order and lots of trimming bashing and maybe the new 3.5 rc lift for magneride with uca's cuz I'm rubbing bad now on the liner and the sway bar and the upper control arm. I have an lt1 Intake and all the tidbits needed to install(idler,belt, and 45* intake elbow, just waiting on my elite catch can to come in so I can do it all at the same time. Would really like a cam and heads but I think it might take me too long without a lift so I may farm this out to dynospeed in Memphis using lmr, vengeance, or tsp parts. Lt4 hpfp at that time. After that I'm thinking I'll get a better lsd and a circle d converter and call it a day. I am sure I am leaving something out but I'll edit this post over the next few days Sent from my iPhone
  13. My phone bricked itself the day I ordered the kit so I don't have many photos, but I wanted to share my experience since this topic is so absolutely fragmented across multiple threads that take too many tangents. I read details from 3 different forums including the walk-through on the duramax forum everyone points to and when it came down to getting the work done, a week worth of reading only made me confident that I SHOULD be installing it. First, the kit I ordered is the Morimoto Elite HID System Sierra Spec 35W 5500K with XB LED Fogs and has some differences from what others have received. The biggest difference is there are 2 grounds required one which secures to the battery and the other (from the capacitor) to the fender support bracket. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-hid-system-sierra-low-beam.html#.VjfV-rerSUl http://www.theretrofitsource.com/catalog/product/view/id/50727/s/morimoto-xb-led-fog-lights-type-gm-h16/category/4/#.VjfWG7erSUk Secondly, I had a chance to use the new setup Halloween night when all the kiddies were lurking out at night and I can say without a doubt, this modification specifically from Morimoto should be one of the first things you should do to your Sierra. It's worth every penny and it's not as hard as it may seem. Even with the wires strewn all over my dining room table and my wife staring at it and me like "you're gonna ruin your truck", it seemed like a lot but it went in very easily. As for the comparison, if you're on the fence, don't go look at before and after pictures because they don't really describe the difference. Consider that driving in my neighborhood with the stock headlights at night I had to focus on what little light was in the road to worry about what was on the sidewalks or for that matter, what they were doing on the sidewalk. Tonight with the new setup I was able to comfortably drive while not just seeing everyone on the sidewalks but WHO, how many of them, and I could tell what costume they were wearing. The best stock headlights I've ever driven on were auto leveling bi-xenon projectors in a 350Z. With this setup I'm right there even with those headlights in ability to see the road. Now for the install, I took the advice of a couple of people and connected everything on top of my radiator cover and used jumper cables to test the connections using the driver side bulb. This is a huge benefit because you're becoming familiar and confident with the kit. Once you see that bulb kick on, you know whatever you do next is going to work out, so test the kit before you do any work. I wanted a quick win so I installed the fogs first. 15 minutes, no tools needed. Looks good. Another note about difficulty, if you ever need to replace the OEM passenger side bulb.. its not easy, but if you can do that, you can do this project. It took me 4 hours not being familiar with the truck at all (has less than 500mi on it). You'll want to take the radiator cover off, its held in with 12 nylon push-type retainers. Then disconnect the MAF sensor on the intake tube (pull straight up), remove the air filter cover (4 screws), filter, and bottom half of the air filter box (just pull straight up with a lot of effort, pops right off). At this point we've only used a screwdriver.. Now we can finally get to the back of the passenger side bulb housing. Pull both passenger and driver side caps off the back of the bulb housing and we're going to use a 1" spade bit to drill a hole in the middle of the caps. Scary stuff I know. But if you use a clamp or vise and take your time, the caps help you with that hole. There is a perfect indention for a 1 inch hole, this process takes about 5 minutes. Feed one end of the bulbs through the caps and make sure the grommet seals both sides of the hole. I didn't add any silicone or butyl tape to the caps because I felt the holes were nice and smooth and round so we're going to let the supplied grommet do the work. Once you play with the kit, you get a feel for where length of the wires are going to force you to mount everything. The relays need to mount next to the passenger side headlight. I used a self tapping screw to mount mine to the radiator support underneath where the plastic radiator cover goes. I fed the wires to the appropriate locations and made the connections. At this point you want to test the setup again before securing anything. I used industrial strength velcro to secure the ballasts to the side of the radiator support and the AMP igniters to the headlight housing just below the cap on both sides. I only had a single positive and negative with my kit so at this point all I had to do is make the connection at the battery. There are nuts on the battery leads that you attach the connectors to. At this point, again test before moving forward to make sure the lights are working. Now to tidy up, I zip tied the ballasts to the radiator support just for added security and zip tied loose wiring. After putting the air filter box, MAF sensor connection, and radiator cover back on, this project was done. A couple of watch-outs. The fog light wire connectors required that I flip them around (reverse polarity wired). Not a big deal. Secondly, the HID kit only requires 1 input from the stock headlights to turn on. That too may need to be flipped (reverse polarity wired). You will have an unconnected plug from one of your headlights. Tape it off and tuck it away and never think about it again. Follow up pics:
  14. Hello everyone, I'm in desperate need of some help. I've had Morimoto HIDs since October in my 2014 Sierra Denali 1500. (https://www.theretrofitsource.com/morimoto-elite-hid-system-sierra-low-beam.html#.VpHwu8ArJ8Y) Well here's what happened. I installed a K&N intake yesterday and it obviously calls for the negative battery lead to be disconnected. This meant I needed to disconnect the Morimoto harness and it's supplied negative battery cable. Long story short, I finished my K&N install, forgot to put the negative battery cable back on and started the truck. I immediately noticed the headlights weren't coming on, since it was dark outside. I shut the engine down, checked all my headlight connections, and still couldn't figure out why it wasn't working. I then remembered I forgot to connect the negative battery lead. So I reconnected it, started the engine again, and the headlights still wouldn't start. I then spent, literally, the next 3 hours double and triple checking all connections, but the lights would not come back on. I was at my witts end and about to give up, until I turned to Google and found a forum that stated the relay harness was probably bad. It said the ballasts would still work, just hard wired to the OEM headlight wiring harness. I tried this and BOOM, the headlights came on. I concluded it had to be the relay harness that was bad. I thought I had solved the problem, However, when I went to go home, as soon as I started the engine and left, the headlights went out and wouldn't come back on. I live right by my parents and when I got home, I shut the engine and the headlights came on when it was shut. So something is off here, the headlights work upon clicking unlock with the engine off, but as soon as the engine is started, they shut down. What is the problem? I'm going to contact The Retrofit Source on Monday, but I thought I'd ask here before hand. I have to replace the HIDs with the crap stock halogen bulbs for the time being. At least I have my Morimoto LED fogs to keep me going until then. Any help at all would be appreciated. Did I fry the relay harness? No idea what is going on here. Thanks so much!
  15. Looking to see what others think . I just ordered morimoto 35w 6000k sierra spec hid headlights And morimoto 5000k led fog lights. Has anyone tried these on the sierra ? I also ordered the chrome and black front and black emblems , powder coated black . Should all be here next week. Has anyone installed these lights yet ? .. Also looking at exhaust and am coming down between the corsa sport or borla sport . Both would be single side duel tip. I drive a 2015 denali 1500 6.2 , only aftermarket is levelling kit with 24" dub venoms . Please give some advice if prefer different tasteful upgrades . Thanks guys !'!!!
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