Bought it on 8 December 2015, and was totaled on 1 July 2018. All pictures are from mods and projects that I have done.
- Tunneau Cover, soft tri-fold
- Step Rails
- AM/FM Antenna DELETE
- ALL forward-facing white lights ON with HIGHs
- ALL rear-facing white lights ON with Reverse
- Puddle Lights ON with interior lights
- Phone Holder - on dash, left of steering wheel
- Installed CB Radio & Scanner
- 2”x12” Cargo Management Divider in bed
- Rear Frame Plugs
- Tow Hitch Tail /Brake Light
Roll N Lock M Series Tonneau
GM Accessories/Add ons:
Rectangular Assist Steps
Hood Protector Bug Deflector
Moveable Tie Down Hooks
Under Seat Storage
Stainless Exhaust Tip
All Weather Floor Mats
Driver's A pillar assist handle
Receiver Hitch Cover
On 15 September 2018, we finally replaced my TOTALED 2015 Silverado LTZ Z71, RIP: 01July2018. This album will be to show its original state, and any changes or mods that I have done and plan on doing to it over the course of its “lifetime.”
Planned changes/mods (completed items will be moved to the top & CAPs/BOLD/ITALICS ):
1. 2x12 BED CARGO DIVIDER (MAR17, from previous truck)
2. PUDDLE LIGHTS ON with DOORS OPEN (GRY1-GRY8 – truck does this already) (SEP18)
3. AM/FM ANTENNA DELETE ( SEP18 )
4. TOW HITCH BRAKE LIGHT (Bully CR-007A, Tail Light feature REMOVED) (OCT18)
5. FOG LIGHTS ON with HIGH BEAMS (BRN18-BRN10) (NOV18)
6. CARGO LIGHTS ON with REVERSE (PNK26-BRN26) (NOV18)
7. FRAME PLUGS (NOV18)
8. DRIVER’S ASSIST HANDLE (JAN19)
9. CLASSIC BLACK CA LICENSE PLATES ( DSRTRVN ) (JAN19)
10. *Install Hidden AM/FM Antenna(s)
11. * Nerf Rail Lights , tied into Puddle Lights
12. *7-Pin to Tailgate Light Bar and Tow Hitch Brake Light Adapter
13. *4 USB Ports on Back of Center Console
14. *Install CB & Scanner
15. *Front Tow Hitch w/ License Plate Holder
16. Tailgate Light Bar
17. Phone Holder
18. Grey USA Flags on both Front Doors
19. Dash Camera (Front/Back)
20. Tonneau Cover
21. Replace Center Console with One That the Cup Holder Moves
22. Black Lug/Lock Kit
23. Illumated Bow Tie
24. Sports Bar Package
25. Grayout Chrome On Front/Back Bow Ties (Dark Gray Plasti-Dip)
26. Blackout Keyholes
27. Blackout Door Badges
1. Gray Trim
2. Black “71”
3. Red “Z”
28. Blackout Z71 Grill Badge
1. Gray Trim
2. Black “71”
3. Red “Z”
29. Blackout Steering Wheel Badge
30. 2.250 x 1.500 STD Black Cap (fuel)
31. Momentary Switches
3. Trailer Lights
32. Forward Facing Camera/Mirror System
33. Amber Strobes
34. Floor Liners
35. Swing Out Toolboxes
36. Mud Flaps
2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Crew cab with (Katzkin, black leather seats) Has 6' Fabtech lift with the option for the 3way adjustable Dirt Logic coil over shocks, Magnaflow 409 stainless 3" cat back exhaust. Diablosport Trinity Power tuner, AMP Research Power step with 4 side LED entrance lights. Custom RCX grill and paint matched Rough Country Fender Flairs.
Stock Bluetooth Intellilink system with the addition of a Custom under rear seat sub box w/ 10" Cerwin Vegas with and Kenwood 2000w Amp.
ANZO Projector/with glow rings with fan cooled High power LED headlamps.
And believe me it rides like a Cadillac!
*****THIS MOD ONLY WORKS FOR BULLY CR-007A, OR THE LIKE. THE TAIL/BRAKE LIGHT HAS TO BE A 4-WIRE WITH SMART-BOX.*****
*****Sort the images by "Caption" to put them in order.*****
1. Get a NEW Bully Truck Hitch Tail/Brake Light (HAS TO BE A CR-007A ), a BLUE wire splicer/crimp, and RED LED 1157 Bulb (one for each assembly).
My new Bully Hitch Cover Tail & Brake Light, unaltered. Unpack the light, and gently stretch out the harness.
a. Get the Zip-Ties out of the way from the black box and the harness
You can work the two zip-ties loose and out of the way. Take the smaller one toward the plug, but DO NOT PINCH THE YELLOW WIRE LOOP!!! Take the larger one off of the circuit block and toward the light assembly. If you want, you can cut the zip-ties away, and replace them with new ones, when you’re done.
b. Pull wire harness up through the block, with a couple inches of harness exposed
Take the black sheath and slide it as close to the plug as you can, exposing the wires inside of the assembly. This one was all the way in against the lamp housing. I pinched a little bit of the sheath and push the wires through towards the assembly, until I could pull them through from inside the assembly.
c. Cut the BROWN wire in two places,
i. Even with the opening of the mount ( NOT DOWN INSIDE ), and/or
Cut the BROWN wire about even with the end of the block. If you can cut it too short (down inside the block) or a little long, you will have chaffing issues later because you will not be able to pull the harness back in out of the way.
Just a closer view of the BROWN wire cut. NOTICE that the cut is about even with the opening.
ii. At the plug
IF YOU WANT , cut the other end of the BROWN wire at the plug, or leave it alone, you already cut the source for the light assembly to shine with the tail lights. I removed mine with each one that I have done. Pull it out, and you can either throw it away or keep it for another project. I'm debating on using it re-modify my original light, so it works just like this one.
d. Connect blue splice:
i. Slide YELLOW wire into the pass-through (open side) of the splice
ii. Slide BROWN wire into the splice (“hinge side”) until it stops
iii. Pull YELLOW wire thru splice until it’s even with BROWN (same length from splice to bulb)
iv. Crimp the splice
v. Fold the lock over & lock it
Slide the YELLOW wire through the opening in the splice, MAKING SURE THAT THE CLOSED OFF END IS AWAY FROM THE LAMP, toward you. Insert the BROWN wire into the other opening, and slide the splice down along the YELLOW wire until the BROWN wire is completely inside the splice, both YELLOW and BROWN are even between the splice and the bulb housing. Take a pair of pliers, smash the splice blade down into the splice, and fold over the lock.
e. Pull wire harness back into the block
In the same manner that you slid the sheath away from the light housing, run the sheath back down to the splice. Pull the harness back down into the assembly until the sheath almost disappears through the inside hole. DO NOT pull the harness too tightly down into the assembly.
f. Install RED LED 1157 Bulb (OPTIONAL)
I chose to replace the conventional 1157 bulb with an 1157 RED LED Bulb, make the light shine more RED .
g. Re-zip-tie harness and little black box
Take the zip-ties and put them back where they were when you started. I slid the small one down near the sheath, put the larger one back on the circuit box, and tightened both of them up a little, since I removed the BROWN wire. I then trimmed off the extra zip-tie that I had pushed through, to clean it up.
With this mod, the light functions/illuminates as follows:
1) Locking/Unlocking the vehicle
2) Remote Starting - will only flash when the lock button is pressed during the sequence
3) Applying the brakes, and
4) EMERGENCY FLASHERS
The circuit box keeps it from flashing with the turn signals, but allow it to flash with the emergency flashers.
You may need to purchase a 12” 4-wire extension for it to receive power, about $4 @ Walmart. On my ’06 & ’10 Ridgelines, the harness was long enough to reach. BUT on my ’15 & ’18 Silverados, I had to buy an extension.
2. Performed operational check. Light illuminates as follows:
I will shoot a video of the operational check out of this modified light sometime in the near future, with some family assistance.
a. Lock/Unlock visual indication,
b. Remote Start visual indication (with BROWN wire removed, it will only flash with tails, like Lock/Unlock),
c. Press brake pedal, and
d. Emergency Flashers.