Eddie 70

2014 Just a touch over 122k miles. I've had the condenser replaced under warranty and the radiator under warranty by dealer. I change the engine oil and filter every 5k miles. I pull a gallon of transmission fluid out the dipstick every 15k miles and put a new gallon in. Ic hanged the trans filter at around 60k. It's time to do that again. I changed the diff fluid once. I put new pads and rotots all around. New bilstien shocks. New upper control arms(I thought the bushings were worn out, wrong) It's had a couple of alignments and new tires. I'd love a new ZR2 but, my truck only costs gas and insurance at this point.

Been changing a gallon of fluid in my 2014 every 15k miles for the last several years. I use GM fluid because it is easy to get. The fluid looks new every time I check it now. I am currently at 120k miles and the truck seems to be doing fine. I agree with you that frequent changes helps. Blackstone seems to think it does.

Just hit 120000 on my way home from vacation. I changed oil and filter while it was still warm from the trip. Edit: I just checked my records and today is the day seven years ago that I got the truck. 10-23-15 was when I filled it up for the first time on the way home at 42,500 miles. Been a good truck for me so far.

I put new rotors and pads on my truck and noticed the new pads did not fit in the new clips easily. I had to try and force the pads into the new clips. I knew that was not right. If I had to force them into the clips, then there was no way they could retract from the rotor when I let off the brake pedal. I took a flat file and took a little off the each end of the pads being careful to keep the ends flat. Once I had taken a little off, I made sure the pads would slip into the clips in the caliper brackets nicely. This has been about 5 years ago. I have had no issues since.

That was going to be my guess. Doors are notorious areas for wiring to get broken in a lot of vehicles not just Chevys.

I had the same issue on my 2014. I thought it was the upper control arm bushings worn out. I ordered new upper control arms from MOOG. Imagine my surprise when I found the upper control arm loose. I went ahead and changed the upper control arms anyway. Look at the upper control arm bolts and make sure everything is tight.

I have posted a similar answer to this type of thread before. On my 2014, I initially changed the fluid around 65k miles along with the filter. The fluid looked like chocolate. I have since changed 1 gallon of fluid every 15k miles. I use a hand pump and pull the one gallon of fluid out of the dipstick and replace it with a fresh gallon of fluid. I am at 118k miles. The fluid looks brand new now. I don't know whether this will allow my transmission to live longer or not, but for the price of one gallon fluid, it's a no brainer. It takes me 20 minutes to the the job and I feel like I have done something good for my transmission.

Just thought I would update my mileage thread. I haven't been adding too many miles the last few years. I am now at 118k miles. No issues as of late other than I picked up something in the road and had a blow out on 9k mile old tires. That sucked!!

Knock on wood. Mine is a 2014 and at 118k miles. Still on the factory originals all around.

I'll second CamGTP statements. Since I've changed my filter and fluid, I pull 1 gallon of fluid back out the dipstick and refill with one gallon of fresh fluid every 15k miles. It's easy and gives me peace of mind. I don't know if it is buying my any extra life but I am currently at 118k miles on mine.

My 2014 had a crack in the plastic along the top of the radiator. I backed into my parking space at work and noticed a little steam coming from under the front edge of the hood. It had been raining so I thought it might have been that. I popped the hood and walked around to the front of the truck and I could smell coolant. Mine was still under warranty so the dealer replaced it. I had noticed the water being low also. So I added some distilled water to the tank to bring the level back to full. After that was when I saw the steam. That evening when I got home, the level was low in the tank again.

Just thought I would add to the thread. My truck is still running and shifting like it should. The temps are still lower than they were with the thermostat in place. I drove it 11 hours to south Florida last October with no issues at all. I don't remember the exact temps the trans was running but it was no where near the opening point of the stock thermostat. Maybe 150-160 degrees F. at the max. I'm still happy with the flip and I still do my one gallon trans fluid swap every 15k miles.

Nice work!!

Get you a rubber vacuum cap or something similar to cover the end of the Fumoto valve and nothing will drain out if the valve gets hit. You can also tighten it to where the handle is up out of the way so nothing can hit it. I've got a section of tygon tubing I slip over the end of the valve and drop into my drain pan when I pull into the garage when it's time to change oil. Open the valve and walk in the house. Come back out the next morning and I know I have drained the oil while it was hot, no splashes, no mess and easy as can be.