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16LT4 last won the day on September 27 2019

16LT4 had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Eastern LI; Hudson Valley; OBX; Treasure Coast
  • Gender
  • Drives
    ‘16 Silverado CCSB 4x4

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16LT4's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/11)



  1. Something's loose. Also, the general rule of any suspension component is to not fully torque any fastener that runs through a bushing until the weight of the vehicle is on the ground. A suspension level/lift is going to require a loosening/retightening of the CABs.
  2. Because the site is so heavy with ads and horribly slow on my Bush-era computer, it was quicker to post than edit above; another actual COLD start and brief walk-around. We're expecting some snow tomorrow night, so unfortunately a solid test-run to work will have to wait a while (I don't drive the truck in bad weather if I can help it, the X3 blows it away in bad weather).
  3. I pull plugs every 50-60k miles for inspection and to free them, and if I'm pulling them out, new ones are going back in. I stick with platinum, no need to splurge. Some may say that's wasteful, but two of my cars have lifetime replacement on plugs, so a full plug change costs me $6 in shipping. At 186k miles on my BMW, I'm on my 4th set of plugs, but haven't paid for a plug in 120k miles.
  4. It took several years, but I finally settled on an exhaust.
  5. After work tomight, I installed a Proven Ground exhaust from Americantrucks.com, for only $364. It is 409 stainless, which is to be expected for the price, except for the 304 tip. It's taken me a while to upgrade because I was most concerned with drone and obnoxious noises, considering I'll spend up to 25 hours behind the wheel, straight, in the truck a couple of times a year. From behind the wheel, I don't even notice the exhaust, until I stand on it, which was my goal. Also, the truck lately has been feeling choked, but that feeling is now gone. The other night, I had to take a crescent wrench to the flapper valve to free it, so my SWAG is that it is seizing shut in the cold. The truck moves easier, now. Not so much quicker, but easier. Proven Ground Cat-back exhaust In no particular order: New pipes I reused the Cat clamp; but the through-bolt was shot, so I didn't even bother wrenching it, just cut it between the band clamp ends with a 3" cut-off wheel and then tapped the bolt ends out. I used a new grade 8 coated bolt with 1/4" spacers to re-clamp it. 304 stainless tip Stock "stainless" exhaust. This is why I opted to not do a muffler delete, it took less time to install the new exhaust than to clean and weld on that junk. Stock flapper, wide open. It's been seizing, choking the engine.
  6. What will be interesting is when the lithium fires become increasingly common, and EVs face bridge, tunnel, parking garage, and ferry restrictions. What will be really interesting is when insurance carriers begin to take note when the current outliers become trends and raise insurance premiums as a result. Insurance rates helped doom the late '60s muscle cars, and would erode any perceived cost savings of EV. GM has already basically said "don't park your Volt next to anything you care about," and Germany has currently suspended E-buses in some areas pending further investigation and improvements. https://www.cnbc.com/2021/09/15/gm-advising-some-bolt-ev-owners-to-park-50-feet-away-from-other-cars.html#:~:text=GM is advising some Chevrolet,of batteries spontaneously catching fire. https://wattsupwiththat.com/2021/11/08/e-vehicle-woes-german-cities-remove-e-buses-from-service-after-bursting-in-flames-fire-hazard/ Lithium fires get real fun, real fast. I daily drive a '70 VW Bug as a commuter, and see no reason to change that.
  7. Same; this forum is very "heavy." It runs VERY slow on my laptop, much slower than other forums I visit, to the point I usually browse at work. But, I also purchased my laptop when Dubya was President... yeah, 2007. I've mentioned before I don't waste money, and keep things very long.
  8. I typically only hand-wash the vehicles (with a hand wash-mit and cold fingers) and no foam cannon, regardless of temperature. It's fun in single digits when the soap foam has frozen to the vehicle by the time it gets washed off. I'll pull the vehicle onto the lawn so as not to create an ice rink in the driveway; the exception was last year when we had a standing 12"+ inches of snow for over 2 months and I couldn't utilize the lawn, so I did have to purchase a monthly car-wash pass to avoid the driveway icing. The Bimmer's Monacoblau paint did NOT appreciate that, the carwash beat it up good, but swirl marks > corrosion. During winter, I wash the vehicles in use at least once a week, which is why I'll also limit usage to 2 instead of 6. Paying for a carwash pass is painful, as is paying anyone to do anything. I hate wasting money frivolously.
  9. Some additional "pill flip" data points: Location: Hudson Valley, NY Time: 0630 Air temperature: 26*F Normally I never start the car in the morning and walk away, but I had to bring my 3 yr old to daycare before work, so I started the car, then walked back inside to get him and our gear, and walked back outside. Not more than 5 minutes run-time. ATF temperature when I pulled out of my driveway was 76*F, an increase of 10*F/minute. Within 4 miles of 30-40mph driving with the occasional stop sign, ATF was in the mid 80*F's. From that point, the rate of temperature-increase decreased. Commute to day-care is 15 miles, including 2-3 miles of 70 mph 4 lane, but most is 40-50 mph 2 lane. At the end of the 4 lane, approximately 8-9 miles in, ATF touched 90*F. Some slower driving, and stop sign accelerations crested 100*F after 13 miles, and hit 104*F when I rolled into the day-care driveway. I left the truck idling while I brought the dude inside, and a couple minutes later when I came back out, ATF hit 111*F, where it stayed the mile and a half to school from there. I don't usually drive the truck when it's cold or in inclement weather (it's got a lot of real estate to wash, and the Bimmer has far greater rust-through protection), but I may have to on a clear, cold day just to gather data. We typically don't see temperatures less than 0*F here, so as long as the temperature curve looks the same, I'll keep the pill flipped and not install the upgraded thermostat.
  10. Grumps beat me to it with mention of road crown; as I spend parts of year in 4 different parts of the country, I'll adjust the front starboard tire by adding a few pounds of air pressure in order to account for areas with increased road crown. When I'm in FL I keep the tires equal, but when I'm on Eastern Long Island where some of the roads are so crowned you can't even run comfortably without inducing plantar fasciitis, I'll add up to 3 lbs of air to that tire (or remove from the forward port tire) to keep the vehicle steering straight with hands off the wheel. Increased tire pressure on that wheel makes makes the vehicle pull to the opposite side.
  11. Winter gas really is a farce excuse. If it decreased fuel economy, then the same lowered fuel economy would be present when temperature swings unseasonably warm. My truck has averaged a best of 26.5 mpg from Florida to NY, cruise control set to 68 mph on I-95. The on-board display was off by 0.5 mpg. I calculate economy with every fill-up, and the dash is always within 1mpg of the calculated value, sometimes actually showing less than calculations. However, even calculations are not entirely accurate due to a few variables, such as 1) the station pump click-off pressure 2) the amount of fuel added after the click-off 3) temperature when previously filled with fuel 4) temperature when re-fueled. OnStar data using the phone app shows a lifetime mileage of 30.5 mpg, most of which obtained by the original owner of the truck. Given the computer is nearly the same as a calculator, that is quite good. My absolute BEST fuel economies are in early spring and mid-autumn: my weekend job commute is nearly 200 miles each way, and I fill up when I leave my home area, and again when I arrive. I use the same gas stations, travel the same roads, drive the same way, etc. to reduce variables. During those specific seasonal times, my fuel economy is up to 8mpg higher than normal, based on the vehicle (best is on the '11 Jetta), but EVERY vehicle sees an increase. During those seasons, ambient temperature swings can be as high as 30*F between the fuelings that book-end the trip, and the drastic mpg improvements are ONLY when there is a large temperature swing; on days within those seasons where there isn't a large temperature delta, fuel economy suffers. I've recorded better fuel economy on "winter fuel" than "summer fuel" in those seasons. Why? The fuel in the tank when I leave might be in the 30*F's or 40*F's, but when I arrive 3 hours later, 20*F hotter or more. Fuel expands when heated, so my hypothesis is that the expanded tank fuel limits the amount that can be added to the tank, giving a false economy increase. Particularly in the VW, if the car then was parked (I keep another car at my other house for work when I'm there), the fuel gauge can read full when parked, but read lower the next day if checked when cold. If checked later than afternoon after warming all day, it magically read full again. Yesterday on my trip back North in the BMW, the fuel gauge didn't seem to move much at all, adding nearly 20 miles to each 8th tank, yet the computer's mpg read-out didn't match the fuel gauge, reading much less. On that car, the gauge is as reliable as a clock, and has been for 185k miles. What happened? It was 20*F when I left and 40*F after 2 hours of the drive; once I got upstate and temperatures dropped into the low 30*s again, the gauge needle started moving much faster. Cold weather reduction in fuel economy: 1) use of remote start 2) increased "warm up" time (I never do this) 3) running a rich fuel mix to start the engine (engines still have to "choke" to start when cold) 4) increased time spent running in open-loop rich mode before getting to operating temperature or switching to closed loop 5) cold air is denser than warm air. Dry air is denser than wet air. Cold/dry air much denser than warm/moist air. It takes more energy to punch a brick of a truck through dense winter air than light summer air 6) even in closed loop, the PCM meters additional fuel to maintain stoich given data obtained by various MAF, baro, and IAT sensors 7) increased friction of ALL the fluids; transfer case and differential(s) are heated solely by friction, unlike the transmission and engine oils which can be heated by coolant and radiant heat from the exhaust manifold. Oh, and don't forget fuel station. My cars always get worse mileage using BJ's "premium"... given the low price, I suspect their 91 isn't really 91.
  12. I also upgraded the stock 100k mile black rear shocks to bilstein 4600s and I couldn’t believe the difference, in the positive.
  13. Ambient temps were also much colder in the NYC area this past weekend, which definitely has an impact for a multitude of reasons. Without touching anything on the truck, run another tank to get more objective data. One data point does not a trend line make. That said, every mod you’ve made decreases fuel economy.
  14. I don’t like brush guards and can’t stand LED light bars.
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