2017 CC 5.3/6L80 4x4 At 87.5k I’m not at what I’d consider high mileage, but I’ll hit 90k within the next 2 weeks and 100k by the end of the year. The truck has been NY-FL twice so far this year, with 2 more to go, as well as a few NY-OBX trips. It’s hauled a crowned bed of white oak with 4K lbs behind it a couple times, with many more to go. Ive had to replace... the brake pads and rotors all around. I replaced plugs and wires at 75k miles. I’m Still on the original AC condenser, no tune, no catch can, no mods. If I keep highway speed under 70 it can pull an almost 27 mpg tank average. No shudders, no clunks, no confused shifts. I may “overmaintain” as well, but things like misfires, stalls, shudders, and broken parts are not things I typically ever deal with (with one notable exception), no matter the mileage or the marque. My maintenance strategy is preventive/predictive, not reactive. Engine oil- 5k Coolant/brake fluid- 2 years Transmission drain/fill- yearly Transfer case- 20k Diffs- 30k Plugs/wires- 60-75k. The other vehicles get COPs at around 100k. They get washed 2-4 times a month depending on mileage. Same with interior cleaning, especially the inside glass. Waxed as soon as the water begins to stop beading. Foil windshield sunshield everytime they get parked. Yes its got 2/3 the mileage of the 155k 5.4-3v F150 FX4 it replaced, but this truck is much better design, IMO. I have no interest in 4 hour spark plug jobs, full timing rebuilds at least once in the truck’s life, or corroded fuel pump drivers. One thing I’ve always loved about GMs is the relative ease of maintaining/repairing them. I see no reason for the drivetrain to not outlast the body/chassis (which is 100% rust, dent, scratch, flake free) and go 300k miles.
I completely agree with your thoughts on the t1. I’d rather drive an LUV than one of those. Beyond that personal opinion can’t offer much; my 5.3 6 speed has been perfect, and I’ll feel a problem long before the ECM will alert me. And you’re possibly right with your “almost new truck” hypothesis; depends on whether upgraded parts were installed or same junk again. The problem with a problem vehicle is that all the new parts in the world won’t help on if manufacturing tolerances are slightly off across the board, in which case you’ll always suffer from stacked tolerances.
I never reuse gaskets. Ever. The price savings on a gasket isn’t worth the labor to replace it again, and ya gotta figure the rubber is already starting to heat-harden. IIRC I got mine from either Advance or rock Auto, not nearly that expensive. Very cheap IIRC. You could even forego a gasket like a stock a Ford and just use RTV (I always use a gasket).
If the lifetime fluid lasts the life of the transmission, then it is truthful advertising. Shhh never mind the reduced life of the transmission. Maintenance free sells cars and is why a matchbook is no longer in the toolbox. I however firmly believe that 300-500k miles is quite possible on all driveline components. I do like the Redline stuff too, I have their gear oils in all my diffs. I also modify what I can to make basic maintenance easier, and therefore more frequent. My VW doesn’t even have a fill plug on the transmission and must be filled and level checked via the drain plug, talk about the manufacturer really trying to prevent maintenance! Queue the outlier with “300k miles on original fluids and spark plugs and it drives just fine” lol.
I use the Valvoline Dex6 in my truck (87k miles), Olds (130k on a thoroughly abused but never broken trans) and BMW (164k miles) and never so much as a hiccup on any of them. I do drain/fills about once a year, and installed a drain plug in the Silverado’s pan to facilitate fluid changes. Last time I got a case of Valvoline, I got it on sale from Advance for $2-3/quart.
Took my ‘16 5.3 crewcab 4x4 from NY to FL a few weeks ago. It was in the 30s when we left and 80s when we arrived. My mileage increased directly with temperature, from mid 18s up to 23 mpg. Mileage increased roughly 1 mpg for every 10*F in air temperature; temps stayed in the 40s until SC as did my low fuel mileage, which helps take “winter fuel” off the list of explanations, leaving stoich and air resistance as the main reasons. With no one on the road, the truck was stuck on cruise control at 72 mph the entire trip; I went a full 450 miles without touching the brakes, slowing down only for off ramps. Best highway trip I’ve ever taken, and perfect conditions. This was on 87 octane. Back in January, headed North from FL to Norfolk, we hit a best tank average of 26.5 mpg, with the cruise set to 67 mph and 89 octane. That same trip saw almost 24 mpg on 89 doing 72 mph from the Treasure Coast to Key Largo and back. Down here in FL right now I averaged 18.5 mpg around town on 87, the current tank has 89 to see if the juice is worth the squeeze. The truck currently has 87.5k miles and has never had a valve or upper engine cleaning, other than some MMO in the oil a couple times.
Another thing to consider is if you like having a transmission dipstick and easy AF fluid changes, because if so, the 6 speed is your huckleberry. The 8 speed isn’t horrible (based on my experience with Audi, VW and BMW transmissions with similar procedures), but is something to consider if you need to farm out a fluid change. I like dipsticks, so I like the 6. I have the 6L45 in another vehicle, sans dipstick, and checking it’s level is far from straightforward.
Thanks. That’s what I decided to stick with too, as I’m still under warranty, FWIW. With my truck driving between upstate NY and FL’s treasure coast 4 times in 3 months (I’m now 25% through those trips), I figured “why not?” and just picked up 8 quarts of the Rotella 0w-20 at Advance. $21.32 after tax for 8 quarts. By the time I’ll begin my next round trip, I’ll be just about due, so I figured I’d get while the gettin’ is good, even though I’ve got 2 or 3 5-qt jugs of Pennz Plat on the shelf in my shop, plus about a half dozen M1 filters for this truck. Currently at 87k miles. The side effect of this thread is it had me start price shopping, and get a killer deal 1400 miles from home.
If you trust a quick lube place I have Ocean front property in Montana to sell you. Even dealers relegate the HS kids to fluid changes, many never even change oil filters. Fact. Here’s a horror story: https://jalopnik.com/lazy-idiots-at-lube-shop-cut-hole-in-audi-s4s-aero-pan-1748394648
I was able to get that 1/2” drop of the exhaust with the method I described. With the drain plug I’m now good for another 60k until I again drop the pan (I do drain/fills at 30k and filters at 60k for every vehicle that rolls through my shop doors).
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