Nothing you posted was enlightening, only dimming. If tires are wearing that differently fore and aft, one is 1) not rotating them or 2) doing the burnouts. (Hence the burnout item I mentioned). Rotations equalize the normal wear and tear. If a sent of 4 tires is too expensive for a K2 owner/renter then maybe, just maybe, they’re driving the wrong vehicle. If vehicle maintenance is make or break, there are larger problems. I wasn’t kidding or joking so save your wannabe attitude. When tires wear differently, you rotate them. End of conversation.
Who TF is only replacing 2 tires at a time??? If you need to to this, try: 1) rotating tires 2) stop the burnouts. Cool in HS, not so much in middle age. 3) rotating tires 4) affording 4 tires
Truck “seems” like a good deal. Or is it? I bought my ‘16 Crew Cab 4x4 LT a year ago, CPO warranty good through 2022, for less than he’s asking. And that’s from an actual Chevy dealer. Why is retired guy getting rid of it so soon? Was it an auction buy on the part of the Ford dealer? What always makes a deal “Good” is 1) how much you NEED the item 2) how well you can afford said item, 3) how much you’ll immediately need to invest into that item, and lastly 4) how much you want said item. You know your finances and your job market better than anyone else, nor is it anyone else’s business. My personal limit on a vehicle purchase is 20% of one year’s gross salary, but typically I stick to 10% or less. There are cheaper ways to build credit, especially with all the 0% deals on brand new going on right now. Just my $0.02.
120* C (248*F) won’t be overheating on these things, though is close. Pressure and coolant mix raise the boiling point up to around 260*F IIRC. The dealer is quoting a worst case scenario on that temp and I do agree if temp is getting that high there’s other issues to deal with. If it helps assuage any buyers remorse, I’ve worked on enough Fords, all with the same exact issues (failed timing chain tensioners and guides), to never own one ever again. But I also expect 300k miles without issue. I only buy used, sometimes over 100k miles; I’ll let the original owner take the financial hit and then I’ll still have a reliable, clean vehicle for hundreds of thousands of miles for a fraction of the price. You paid $60k for added comfort not added durability, so I’d reckon that aspect has been fulfilled. If that is too much, or the just wasn’t worth the squeeze, trade it in for a cheaper truck, or one from another brand, but don’t expect perfection. Emissions and fuel economy requirements have upped engine temps, leaned the fuel mix, and added miles of electronic complexity. At least these trucks don’t have their fuel pump driver module circuit board cleverly hidden inside a sacrificial metal case and mounted above the rear axle, like a Ford... mine went through 3 of those in 150k miles at $100 a piece.
I dunno, I’m 6’-1” and never had an issue reaching the the dipstick in my 4x4. I can reach it easily. If you want to talk annoying, try pulling the heads on a lifted version of these things. I had to have a stepladder when I pulled the cams on my lifted F150, now that was annoying! If the reach is too far, just drain the air out of the tires. Bring the vehicle to you.
The only one to say definitively is your lawyer. The shop won’t replace your engine without one. It will get ugly, and you’ll likely have to make concessions unless you have very deep pockets. I presume you’re out of factory warranty. That whole scenario is why I avoid shops. Nothing is ever done 100% right. If I can’t do it in my home shop, it won’t be done. Good luck. And be wary of their “replacement engine” offers. 30 years ago my dad took his ‘86 Mitsubishi pickup to a trusted shop that did the work for the state police cars (he is a retired Trooper) and the owner said his engine failed at 120k miles. Sold him a replacement engine that ran like crap because it didn’t have the balance shaft installed. My dad took him to court but in the meanwhile went to the shop, picked up the original engine by hand out of the weeds it had been sitting in for a month, and brought it home. Turns out just a common valve adjustment issue common to every Mitsu motor. Ran it up to 345k miles without issue. I think all he got out of the lawsuit was the cost of the reman motor, nothing of his time spent swapping to engines in our home garage, or aggravation.
Is there anything other than arguably better looks (T1s notwithstanding) and the useless multi tailgate than a Denali has that a High Country Chevy doesn’t? I’m not being facetious and actually curious. My GMC doesn’t have dash vents, an HVAC that has a setting they than “heat” or “defrost”, crank windows, vinyl floors and a bare cardboard headliner. Not quite high class when you need to reach under the dash to open the fender well vents in order to get outside air. But like a good GM, has t needed anything other than fluid changes and ignition tuneups since new in 1984. Original clutch too, and the undercoating is still intact in the frame. It’ll outlast the K2.
FWIW... I’m at 50k on Goodyear Wranglers and only half way to the wear bars. Stock size for 18” wheel. We take the truck every other month from NY to FL and if my 1 year old can sleep for 10 hours solid in the truck and I can drive for 20 hours straight after being awake all day, I’d say the ride and sound are very acceptable. I usually prefer other brand tires, but have had no reason to gripe.
One of the more comical things I’ve ever seen is a GMC pickup with one of those “Calvin pissing on Chevrolet” stickers in the back window. Probably the same guy who is convinced that the “professional grade” marketing campaign means that his truck has heavier duty suspension and drivetrain components.
I guess that depends on how you classify a Diablo/Caballero Seriously though today it’s just a badge and detal difference. My ‘84 GMC doesn’t even have vents in the dash, hardly what I’d call a step up from a Chevrolet. The GMC price premium is mostly a marketing creation, they “look” fancier (and often better, IMO).
With preventive maintenance schedules offering 12-18% cost savings over reactive maintenance, and predictive schedules another 8-12%, why would anyone not be proactive if costs savings and longevity are the ultimate goals? I’m thoroughly satisfied with the build quality of my ‘16. Definitely better than the “plastic fantastic” ‘99 Sierra Z71 that was the last full size GM Truck I’d owned, and better than the F150 that preceded it. My father also bought a ‘16, a Colorado CCLB Z71, brand new to replace the last vehicle he’d bought new, an ‘86 Mitsubishi Mighty Max. With 345k on it, it still purred like a kitten, but the years of hauling the boat in and out of salt water had taken its toll and he finally sold it when the cab mounts came though the floor and the cab dropped, but it still drove fine on only it’s second clutch, which had 200k on it. These trucks will go the distance if you let them, IMO.
2017 CC 5.3/6L80 4x4 At 87.5k I’m not at what I’d consider high mileage, but I’ll hit 90k within the next 2 weeks and 100k by the end of the year. The truck has been NY-FL twice so far this year, with 2 more to go, as well as a few NY-OBX trips. It’s hauled a crowned bed of white oak with 4K lbs behind it a couple times, with many more to go. Ive had to replace... the brake pads and rotors all around. I replaced plugs and wires at 75k miles. I’m Still on the original AC condenser, no tune, no catch can, no mods. If I keep highway speed under 70 it can pull an almost 27 mpg tank average. No shudders, no clunks, no confused shifts. I may “overmaintain” as well, but things like misfires, stalls, shudders, and broken parts are not things I typically ever deal with (with one notable exception), no matter the mileage or the marque. My maintenance strategy is preventive/predictive, not reactive. Engine oil- 5k Coolant/brake fluid- 2 years Transmission drain/fill- yearly Transfer case- 20k Diffs- 30k Plugs/wires- 60-75k. The other vehicles get COPs at around 100k. They get washed 2-4 times a month depending on mileage. Same with interior cleaning, especially the inside glass. Waxed as soon as the water begins to stop beading. Foil windshield sunshield everytime they get parked. Yes its got 2/3 the mileage of the 155k 5.4-3v F150 FX4 it replaced, but this truck is much better design, IMO. I have no interest in 4 hour spark plug jobs, full timing rebuilds at least once in the truck’s life, or corroded fuel pump drivers. One thing I’ve always loved about GMs is the relative ease of maintaining/repairing them. I see no reason for the drivetrain to not outlast the body/chassis (which is 100% rust, dent, scratch, flake free) and go 300k miles.
I completely agree with your thoughts on the t1. I’d rather drive an LUV than one of those. Beyond that personal opinion can’t offer much; my 5.3 6 speed has been perfect, and I’ll feel a problem long before the ECM will alert me. And you’re possibly right with your “almost new truck” hypothesis; depends on whether upgraded parts were installed or same junk again. The problem with a problem vehicle is that all the new parts in the world won’t help on if manufacturing tolerances are slightly off across the board, in which case you’ll always suffer from stacked tolerances.
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