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16LT4

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16LT4 last won the day on June 28

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  • Location
    Eastern LI; Hudson Valley; OBX; Treasure Coast
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    ‘16 Silverado CCSB 4x4

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  1. I’m not a fan of boosted engines, but that 2.7 does seem much better on paper than the 5.3. Time will tell if it can go the distance; if it can, it makes a lot of sense.
  2. What is the height of your garage door’s lowest point when raised? What is the height of your truck’s highest immovable point, sitting on your driveway? Does the driveway meet the garage floor at an angle, and which way? Basically, impossible for the internet to tell you.
  3. The Frankenstein engines are fine. With the exception of a very small failure population, most don’t have problems. My local dealer has yet to I do a single lifter replacement, ever. How many miles are on your K2, and when did it apparently fail? No one cares about second or third owners, either. It’s a fallacy that automakers care about longevity; they care about about warranty periods. My first K2 was a horrible lemon, but the second is a fabulously reliable machine. 100k miles and 25% into my expected longevity of the truck, on stock components.
  4. It’s fine. My car’s normal ECT is 220-230*F. Boiling point is ~260*F on your engine. No worries. There’s much less air on “the pass” than at sea level, which means less heat transfer.
  5. ‘08 E83 with GM trans. The 45 has a different pan from the 50. I’ve got 190k miles on it with zero issues so I’m not worried about the fluid quality, I drain/fill once a year. Operating temp is also in the 150-160*Fs. I have no doubt it’ll go another 200k, just like every other GM trans We’ve ever had. Factory 8mm Allen drain plug stripped a while ago, and I replaced with 14mm GM hex plug, same as I have in the pan of my 6L80 in the K2.
  6. ‘08 E83 with GM trans. The 45 has a different pan from the 50. I’ve got 190k miles on it with zero issues so I’m not worried about the fluid quality, I drain/fill once a year. Operating temp is also in the 150-160*Fs. I have no doubt it’ll go another 200k, just like every other GM trans We’ve ever had. Factory 8mm Allen drain plug stripped a while ago, and I replaced with 14mm GM hex plug, same as I have in the pan of my 6L80 in the K2.
  7. My BMW with GM 6L45 trans doesn’t have a dipstick and specifies that fluid leveling is done at 30-50*C. Operating temp is 92*C. The difference between the two is a not insubstantial amount of fluid, at least half a cup, so temp does make a difference. OP, I’d add 10oz of Lubegard Red to that trans tomorrow. Thank me later.
  8. I’m no expert but the low flashpoint and fuel in oil shows some fuel dilution, which would lower pressure. Viscosity numbers are at the low end of the range.
  9. My ‘17 DCSB Z71 (white truck below) had LED bed rail lighting, and that’s about the only thing I miss about that POS. My ‘16 CCSB lacked this feature. Only recently did I realize how EASY it is to retrofit, with the factory plug and wiring already ran to the stern. $56 and a day later on Amazon, the kit arrived. Installation was cake, but did take a few trials to figure out the best way to route the wires. With the tonneau cover on, the upper cargo light is usually useless; not any more!
  10. I’ve also reused the orings through a pill flip and subsequent T stat change. More than losing them, make sure they’re not stuck in place and get damaged. Basically, just keep track of them.
  11. For starters, install the updated 70*C thermostat or flip the pill.
  12. This. 7-10 psi at a hot idle is all you really need, and 40psi cruising is fine. Bearing clearance does open up with mileage, potentially dropping pressure slightly. If the oil you're using has viscosity thickeners (to keep the -30 at operating temp), those additives deplete over time, leading to less viscosity and pressure. Fuel dilution from weeping HPFP/injector(s) would do the same. Pressure is also the pressure at the sensor, not the bearings; oil flow is what lubricates and cools bearing surfaces, not pressure. High pressure could mean that the bearings are being starved of oil, which is potentially worse. If a UOA shows fine, don't worry about it.
  13. I’ve owned all the Big 3 in the last 5 years, and the Ram was definitely the best put together of the bunch: best transmission by far, the 5.7 blows away the 5.3, and the interior/details/design/build quality were far better than Chevy. My only issue with mine was the Ram shake inherent in the crew cabs, much like the Chevy shake in the double cabs. The dealer bought it back. But smooth highway trips down South, on 4 coil springs? Smoother than any unladen pickup is supposed to run. My family has owned many Mopar products in the past (starting with K car minivans) and currently, and they’ve always been the most reliable, trouble free vehicles. Personally I think their issues are over-inflated. Good luck with the truck, and post pics! If I hadn’t have bought mine for such a screaming deal, I’d be in a Ram too.
  14. On my Bimmer, I usually run 0w-40 Castrol FS. After selling my wife's Jetta, I had some 5w-40 Castrol leftover, so I used it. I had UOAs performed on both oils, and the 0w-40 came back better. Wouldn't ya know it, but the 0w was thicker at operating temp than the 5w? Why? Different base stocks; the 0w is a step up. When it comes to any oil discussion, remember it isn't just the viscosity, but the brand, and also the oil within the brand (as with the Castrol). On my car, now at 190k miles, the 5w was noticeably rougher, and despite being marginally more viscous in sub-zero temps, I'd receive "low oil" warnings with it in the winter. Not low pressure, but low level; the engine doesn't have an oil dipstick but instead uses an electronic level sensor. On the next oil change, switched back to 0w-40, and no more warnings. My low level warnings never reappeared, despite running in even colder temps; neither did the occasional cold-start lifter tick. So, either 0w or 5w can make the difference either in viscosity or base stock. I've included both UOAs below on those oils. My SWAG was that the 5w- was thick enough to stay in the head before draining back, yielding the "1 qt low" warnings. I wasn't 1 quart low, as measured when I drained the oil. That, and after the oil warmed (in the same weather) there were no such warnings. I work on a ship powered by 4- 20litre I-6 marine diesels. They redline at 1700rpm and spend their entire lives at 1600, with frequent full-throttle moves at the dock in inclement weather. Each engine puts out ~800 hp and torque measured in the thousands. It is nearing 20k hours on this set of engines, which if you try to compare to a car averaging 35 mpg, amounts to 700,000 miles. Oil doesn't get consumed between changes; we've had failures on turbos and manifolds (each cylinder has a head that weighs 150 lbs), but oil-related issues are basically nill. Not bad for engines that live at near full-throttle, running uphill their entire lives. We use Mobil Delvac on those. Oil samples are taken on every oil change. On my Silverado, I switched to 5w-30 on the last oil change; it was a step-up improvement on Ford 5.4s to help mitigate oil pressure issues on those as well that required 5w-20. I instantly noticed a quieter idle when hot, especially at the drive-thru, including from the HPFP. I'd prefer a 0w-30, of appropriate base stock, and may do that when I find one. Humorous anecdote: I'd been running M1 5w-40 in my air cooled VW for the last 1000 miles. Engine and oil temps were low for those engines, and it ran great. Abruptly a few weeks ago, I noticed yellow glitter in the oil (this engine has no oil filter) and what sounds like lifter tick. I put in 20w-50 and noises went down a little bit, but so did the idle... by about 300 rpm! The 20w-50 had enough drag on the oil pump to bog the engine down, and I needed to adjust the carburetor to compensate. Not only that, but oil temps went UP... thick = friction = heat. I knew that, but seeing that on my timing light was educational. I've included the UOAs for my higher mileage BMW only as comparison between 2 different types of oil from the same brand, to show the differences. Stock spec is 5w-30, but also LL01, which the 0w-40 had up until a few years ago. On my next oil change on the Silverado (the first after switching 5w-30) I'll post that too, for data.
  15. I hadn't looked at the lifetime mileage in a year, and today noticed that it has gone down in that time due to the changes I've done to the truck. 28 is great for a full-size SUV. The 400 mile average of 24 mpg was also only within the last year, not since new. Based on the lifetime mileage, I don't think the PO used E85 and likely stuck to the goldilocks zone of 50 mph roads. If I used 89 fuel, went back to lower-resistance tires, stock aero, and didn't tow-haul what I am currently, I'd get the lifetime mileage (and all the other displays) back up. From the displays, you can see the "bests" of the last year; current numbers are low due to hauling a 2000 lbs of firewood, and sand/gravel on the current tank. I've also only been locally driving the truck with stop-and-go and haven't done a good highway trip with it in a while. So: at 90k miles, the lifetime was 30.4 mpg. Now at 102k miles, the lifetime is 26 mpg. also don't forget, those figures are also under-reported, as I didn't have the speedometer corrected when I added the bigger tires; it is off by a few mph compared to GPS. So, the 26 is more like 27 mpg. And that's on E85 for the last 3+ years.
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