Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by 16LT4

  1. Duly noted, but I don't have lifter nor valvetrain issues with my truck. Educate me: what in the data tells you that fuel dilution is 1.5%? I know that Blackstone uses flash point as a proxy method for determining fuel dilution, but I'm curious on your standpoint.
  2. Attached is the UOA from my truck after ~ 4800 miles on Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. The numbers look mostly good, but look at the viscosity numbers at the bottom; the oil was starting to thin out. A 0w-20 (stock spec) oil would be even worse; toss some fuel dilution into the oil and varnish in the oil galleys, and you've got a recipe for lifter disaster. Blackstone misunderstood my comment in the paperwork; my truck hasn't been having issues, but I mentioned issues with other trucks that I wanted to stay ahead of (fuel dilution). OP: I'd send your oil out for analysis. At this point, nothing should be left to guesswork, and the more data at your disposal, the better.
  3. Lifters are not a maintenance item. For such a repeated set of failures, there is likely some underlying root cause of failure that isn't being addressed, lack of proper oil flow or fuel dilution being top of the list.
  4. I went with a 1" level kit, (Motofab blocks IIRC) but also installed Bilstein shocks in the back, which counteracted the 1" level a little bit. My stock front UCABs were shot as where the base of the shocks, so I replaced the coilover units and entire UCAs at the same time with loaded units (bushings and ball joint pre-installed). Because I'll often load the bed, I didn't want to blind planes at night so 1" was a good compromise between unladen look and laden usability.
  5. Ah, OK. Shows how much "meat is left on the bone" sucking fluid out vs. a full drain. 3.5 quarts is only about 25% of the total fluid capacity. I was on the fence about pulling the pan to change the filter this time, but figured I'd wait for the UOA to come back. I'm glad I did; the filter can wait a while. For the next several 10s of thousands of miles, I'll simply remove the drain plug and let'er go. Pour in 6-6.5 quarts via the dipstick tube and drive away, couldn't be easier or quicker. Much easier than my BMW which has a fill hole requiring pumping in fluid with the engine running above me while watching fluid temps on the scan tool (filling temp is 50* C colder than operating temp on that one) or my wife's old VW which didn't have a fill hole, only a drain hole, requiring filling via the drain.
  6. Only 3.5 quarts? Every drain/fill I've ever performed on a 6L80 takes 6.5 quarts. Even a 6L45 will take 4.5-5 quarts.
  7. Easy way to tell if the bolts are actually single-use is to check a torque table for that size fastener, and see if the torque applied puts it into the plastic range. Red loctite is easy to remove... with a little heat. Hit the fastener with a MAP torque and an impact gun (or an 18" breaker bar) and the fastener will spin off. In my younger days, I often used only Red (not knowing the difference), and never needed heat nor impact to remove them, without issue. That said, try the Orange loctite: the strength of Red, but the ease of removal of Blue. Loctite only works on clean fasteners; if they have even a hint of oil, grease, or other residue (such as from sliding a cleaned fastener through a dirty cross member), the Loctite won't function properly. The fasteners loosening so quickly, however seems like a greater concern: they shouldn't. They may not be able to handle the added stress of the lift, and require a grade 8 or 10.9/12.9 to remain elastic.
  8. My '16 5.3 CCSB 4x4 currently has 105,500 miles on it. Back in September on a quick weekend trip NY-OBX, I noticed a slight 100 RPM hunt going up slight inclines at 68 mph in 6th gear and V8 mode. I'd never noticed it before, but hadn't driven it down there with the new exhaust on the truck, either. If it weren't for the slight change in exhaust note, I never would have noticed the slight tach needle movement. I figured it was torque management, but to be sure, I performed a drain/fill when I got home at 104,750 and sent it in to blackstone. I changed the filter and performed 3 drain-fills at 72k miles with Castrol D6, adding a bottle of Lubegard on the final fill. At ~92k miles last summer, I performed a single drain-fill with Redline D6, again with a bottle of LG, and "flipped the pill" in the AT T-stat. In January 2022 I installed the updated 70*F ATF T-stat at 99k miles. This most recent time, I used AC Delco FS D6, a bottle of LG, and a tube of Shudder Fix for good measure. The slight RPM hunt vanished immediately. AFM is enabled, I always drive in "D" (never M5), and the truck spends probably half its life in V4 mode. I occasionally tow and haul much more in the bed than the truck is rated for, loading firewood in the bed until it hits the bumpstops, and then keep loading. With very little exception, the truck is driven at least a half hour every time I start it, and has been used for my long distance (400 mile round trip work commute) at least a half dozen times since August due to fuel prices and is cheaper to run than anything else I own (E85 is a dollar cheaper per gallon than 87). I seldom "floor it," I don't normally force a multi-gear downshift, never use remote start and don't let the vehicle idle to warm up. Most of the truck's life has been on the highway, and is probably much of the reason for the report. My curiosity piqued, I sent in the engine oil last week at its 5k mile oil change. Here is the ATF Report. I'm happy! To continue the trend, I'll be keeping with drain-fills every 10-15k miles.
  9. A pencil gauge is far from accurate. Verify with a a quality dial gauge; cheap gauges like HF gauges can be off by up to 5 psi, and pencial gauges by 10 psi or more; theyr'e entirely dependent upon application speed. I don't use the dash readout for tire pressure; in fact, I've removed it from the queue to avoid having wasted, useless displays in the cycle.
  10. Depends where you are. I use E85 because it is a dollar cheaper/gallon than 87 E10. There's more to the price of E85 than its 15% gasoline content. Harvesting corn, producing electricity or however they heat to distill it, and transport it to the filling stations, is all done courtesy of diesel.
  11. My '16 is factory flex fuel, and that is the fuel I run from April-November.
  12. A month ago, I replaced my cargo lights and 3rd brake light with LEDs. The 3rd brake light bulb wasn't bad, but the glass was getting black, so it was at the end of its lifespan. No issues with lighting since bulb replacement, Silvania LEDs from Autozone. I reused the gasket after throroughly cleaning all sealing surfaces and inspecting the condition of it, because I definitely didn't want to incur a leak; my '04 FX4 had their "notorious" leak, to the point that the cab corners were rotted before I bought the truck (like all 11th gen Fords). Thanks for that link, as I'd forgotten all about having another gasket on hand. For $7 shipped, it may as well be free.
  13. I have Pirelli Scorpions in the stock size, because they were the best price on a RWO tire with more aggressive tread than my stock Wranglers (original tread design, no the more blocky updated one) without looking like I'm trying to compensate. The ride is great, and while I've never put the truck in a situation where I'd get stuck, the tires haven't left me wanting in Spring-melt wet grass or logging mud either. I don't know how long they'll last, but fuel mileage doesn't seem to be impacted much as the truck pulls 20 mpg at 70 mph running E85. The tires on on the truck in my sig.
  14. I typically to a drain/fill every 25-30k miles on transmissions, and don't even bother with the multiple drain/fills within a short time interval anymore due to the frequency of replacement. Filter every 50k. I installed a drain plug in my transmission pan so a drain/fill is stupid-easy, and any particulate that has fallen out of suspension is removed as well. I also pour in a 10oz bottle of Lubegard Red on every fill to every transmission. Here's the UOA on the ATF in my '08 E83, which has the GM 6L45 transmission. Not completely apples-apples compared to a 6L80/90 transmission, but not exactly Apples-Ford either. Other than fluids/filters, the transmission is completely stock at 190,500 miles, and has never offered a hint of shudder, trouble, or shifting issue. The fluid was last drained/filled at 165k miles, when the LG was added. Is there life left in the fluid? Sure. But as fluid and suspended particulate vary inversely, and my goal is to maximize the life of the unit, not the fluid. I'm too cheap to skimp on maintenance, and treat the K2 to the same service regimen as the old Roundel. The K2 is due for a fluid change in ~10k miles, and I'll send the fluid in at that point as well. I'm not concerned with the fluid as much as I'm looking for metals, especially in the 6L90 transmission, considering the known TC issues. Note Blackstone's comment about the amount of metal in this sample: proof that the LG works awesome? Not quite. Support for that hypothesis? Certainly. Also from experience, the LG works great for knocking out the shudder from an older, neglected transmission; it cured all shift issues in my '05 F150 FX4 which didn't receive its first ATF change until 145k miles.
  15. I’m not a fan of boosted engines, but that 2.7 does seem much better on paper than the 5.3. Time will tell if it can go the distance; if it can, it makes a lot of sense.
  16. What is the height of your garage door’s lowest point when raised? What is the height of your truck’s highest immovable point, sitting on your driveway? Does the driveway meet the garage floor at an angle, and which way? Basically, impossible for the internet to tell you.
  17. The Frankenstein engines are fine. With the exception of a very small failure population, most don’t have problems. My local dealer has yet to I do a single lifter replacement, ever. How many miles are on your K2, and when did it apparently fail? No one cares about second or third owners, either. It’s a fallacy that automakers care about longevity; they care about about warranty periods. My first K2 was a horrible lemon, but the second is a fabulously reliable machine. 100k miles and 25% into my expected longevity of the truck, on stock components.
  18. It’s fine. My car’s normal ECT is 220-230*F. Boiling point is ~260*F on your engine. No worries. There’s much less air on “the pass” than at sea level, which means less heat transfer.
  19. ‘08 E83 with GM trans. The 45 has a different pan from the 50. I’ve got 190k miles on it with zero issues so I’m not worried about the fluid quality, I drain/fill once a year. Operating temp is also in the 150-160*Fs. I have no doubt it’ll go another 200k, just like every other GM trans We’ve ever had. Factory 8mm Allen drain plug stripped a while ago, and I replaced with 14mm GM hex plug, same as I have in the pan of my 6L80 in the K2.
  20. ‘08 E83 with GM trans. The 45 has a different pan from the 50. I’ve got 190k miles on it with zero issues so I’m not worried about the fluid quality, I drain/fill once a year. Operating temp is also in the 150-160*Fs. I have no doubt it’ll go another 200k, just like every other GM trans We’ve ever had. Factory 8mm Allen drain plug stripped a while ago, and I replaced with 14mm GM hex plug, same as I have in the pan of my 6L80 in the K2.
  21. My BMW with GM 6L45 trans doesn’t have a dipstick and specifies that fluid leveling is done at 30-50*C. Operating temp is 92*C. The difference between the two is a not insubstantial amount of fluid, at least half a cup, so temp does make a difference. OP, I’d add 10oz of Lubegard Red to that trans tomorrow. Thank me later.
  22. I’m no expert but the low flashpoint and fuel in oil shows some fuel dilution, which would lower pressure. Viscosity numbers are at the low end of the range.
  23. My ‘17 DCSB Z71 (white truck below) had LED bed rail lighting, and that’s about the only thing I miss about that POS. My ‘16 CCSB lacked this feature. Only recently did I realize how EASY it is to retrofit, with the factory plug and wiring already ran to the stern. $56 and a day later on Amazon, the kit arrived. Installation was cake, but did take a few trials to figure out the best way to route the wires. With the tonneau cover on, the upper cargo light is usually useless; not any more!
  24. I’ve also reused the orings through a pill flip and subsequent T stat change. More than losing them, make sure they’re not stuck in place and get damaged. Basically, just keep track of them.
  25. For starters, install the updated 70*C thermostat or flip the pill.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.