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kickass audio

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About kickass audio

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  • Birthday July 28

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  1. how does your radio sound? I am pretty sure that the T1's are the same as the K2 in the sense that the chimes all play from the left front dashboard speaker. Can you hear music playing from that speaker? If so then it might be an issue where the radio has a programming glitch and maybe either unplugging the battery for awhile or whatever fuse powers the radio/amp would help correct it. If you have no audio from that part of the speakers then it could be a broken speaker or wiring issue or even the amp. Does your truck have the bose radio or just the lower level radio?
  2. Your build is really nice! Great job on the enclosure and setup. I wish my 14 had a higher seat height like you get on the crew cabs since I have a DC audio level 3 12 that is too high to fit under the seat. I just threw my box upright on the floor with the passenger side of the bench flipped up. I mounted my Sundown Audio SAX200.4 to the underside of the larger side of the bench seat. I noticed the same point as you about turning down the bass level on the radio to prevent premature clipping/distortion. I have my bass level set to 3 taps above the lowest level and I can get the volume to go up as high as 4 clicks of the volume knob before it begins to show distortion with my SMD DD-1. I initially was loving the sound of the factory speakers with the sub but now it seems kind of quiet and I am contemplating upgrading the door and dash speakers with aftermarket speakers and hook them up to my amp for even more power. Did you run a sound processor or just a high-lo converter? I am running my old Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 and it shows a TON of peaks and valleys in the factory EQ band.
  3. Well I will be damned. Rockauto has failed me and lists the old style sensor that has the ring style sensor where if I look on GM parts direct it shows the same sensor you have mounted directly to the stud on the battery. Sorry I assumed they were right with their parts listing showing the same sensor my truck has, I even looked at the 2020 and 2021 series and they all show the old style. From what I can see both sensors have 3 wires going to them but I could not see the actual sensor online to verify the pinout of the new sensor you have and compare it to the old ring style sensor on my K2. What I am wondering is if the sensor on your battery is simply like a small stud similar to where you clamp the terminals onto the battery and it has a tiny hall effect sensor directly around that and is able to measure how many amps you are pulling. I believe that is how it is setup but cannot confirm since I have not seen this new style terminal torn down yet. I did see on GM parts direct that the sensor is under part number 13526053. I do not see any different versions available for that terminal for the 170 or 220a OEM alternator setup, only the fuse panel was different. My assumption here is that if I am correct in assuming the new sensor you have is setup with a straight metal stud that has the hall effect sensor immediately around it and can carry a decent amount of amperage without overheating or possibly breaking (if GM decided to make it as a fusible link type setup which I doubt) you should be able to just bolt your negative ring terminal onto the same landing point as the rest of the grounds and tighten up that nut and call it a day. I wonder if anyone on here had the dealer install a plow package or anything else to see if they just bolted the negative direct to that long stud on the sensor and everything works as normal. I also wonder if I could take advantage of this new setup on my truck and ditch the old sensor and put the new one you have on my truck and make my life easier.
  4. I can suggest something else for you. I had this issue on my 2014 as well when I changed the pads. If you have pads with a metal backing plate that sits in between the main thick metal backer of the brake pad and where it is clamped on by the caliper you may have some rust inside of there or just the metal rubbing. My slide pins are lubed up with silicone and the pistons move like brand new. I also bleed my brake fluid and vacuum it out every year just to try and prevent my lines from rotting out from the inside out. What I would do is get a helper and have them press the brake down and go to each wheel and listen to see which one is making the creaking noise. In my case it was the rear brake pads on both my silverado and my old envoy that did this. I had plenty of pad life on the pads for both of them but what I did was use a small flathead screwdriver to pry the little piece of metal that is riveted on the thick metal backing place of the pad and squirt some high temp brake slide pin lube in there and use the included bottle brush to shove the lube in the middle as best as I could. I then squeezed the backing plate against the thick metal backer and wiped the excess lube off of the back of the pad. Then I put some high temp brake lube on the piston(s) and the mounting ears that come into contact with the brake pads and bolt everything back up. If you want a great quality brake lube for the pads, I use Permetex Ceramic Extreme and for the slide pins I use Napa sil-glyde. ONLY use silicone lube on the slide pins though. Any other lube will cause the rubber to expand and lock up your slide pins (trust me, I had that happen on my old truck lol) edit: You are also noticing the noise more when the engine is running because you have way more pressure being applied to the caliper/pads than if you ran out of vacuum assist and the engine was off and you tried to slam the brake pedal down. Mine would squeak at about halfway through depressing the brake pedal and continue until I maxed it out.
  5. GM never changed the sensor between the K2 and new T1 trucks. It's the same wire gauge and everything as the previous versions. You just need to find something that has a small enough outside diameter or is soft enough to make the wire become somewhat oblong instead of round to jam it in the sensor.
  6. as you found out the stepper motor won't set a CEL for a broken tooth inside the motor. My fiance had the fuel level sensor on her old car do the same thing except it would trigger a CEL at random but typically whenever she filled up the gas tank past 3/4 of a tank and start to use up the gas it would make the fuel gauge go to a full tank of gas and then to empty and set the alert for running out of fuel and then go back to normal for the actual gas in the tank. I pulled the pump out of her gas tank since it was super easy to do without dropping the tank and I had found that the little contact pads where the level sensor rides on and produces varying levels of resistance had a small burn trace on the pad. I had tried to use some contact cleaner for the contacts and clean the graphite contact and it didn't help for more than a few days.
  7. Something I wondered but don't think is possible would be to leave the factory sensor and wiring alone and add another sensor perhaps in series for the sensing wires (I would need to see which one is data and which one is the +5v reference and ground) and add the aftermarket cables through that. It does look like the new sensor is still 3 wire but maybe the resting rating on the wires is different from the older clamp on style to the new closed sensor. I also looked at rockauto and found 2 revisions for the older sensor. Neither are able to be opened but I see that one refers to a 5v reference and another is a 10v reference for the sensor.
  8. I ran a single 0 gauge OFC wire through the hall effect sensor and it barely fits. I had to rub vaseline on the wire to coat it and jam it in the sensor. I fed it through without the ring terminal installed and once it was ran I crimped on the ring terminal. How I ran my wires is that the OEM battery is in the OEM location and I have an aftermarket group 34 AGM battery installed on the drivers side location (I have a 2014 so I have that luxury). I ran 0 gauge wire from the positive terminal of the OEM battery to the positive terminal of the second battery. I ran 0 gauge wire from the negative terminal of the OEM battery through the factory hall effect sensor and then to the negative stud of my aftermarket alternator. From the negative terminal of the aftermarket alternator I ran another 0 gauge wire to the second battery under the hood and I then ran a 0 gauge positive from the positive stud of the aftermarket alternator to the positive terminal of the second battery under the hood. I will say my truck has a bit of flickering lights with no additional loads on other than the factory electronics. I am not sure if this is because the alternator is a 370A unit and is able to regulate power faster now or because I did not run all ground paths through the damn sensor. I am planning this summer to switch the one ground wire from the stud on the alternator to the OEM battery negative terminal to see if that helps any. If I have a huge load increase like my system turned up quite a bit I can get the voltage to stay steady but at idle with the factory electronics turned on I found that the voltage runs between 16.5v to 14v very fast each time the air conditioning clutch kicks on and off.
  9. I cannot speak on behalf of the listed rim covers but my 2014 came with GM OEM wheel covers that were chrome and they destroyed my rims. The little foam strips that go inbetween the rim and cover caused the aluminum rim to pit and bubble up the clear coat in that spot. Plus the brake dust was eating into the plastic so it was pitted. I now have destroyed aluminum rims because of these skins so I would be careful and IMO would never use them again. Mine just came that way from the dealer when I bought my truck used unfortunately.
  10. Well my new USB did not come in the mail today. Go figure. I was trying to find how the USB that newer editions have in the upper glovebox of the dashboard is connected. My edition does not have one but I was thinking maybe that could help with speed and possibly power output for charging. From what I recall, there was a mini-USB port free on the factory HMI and I suspect that it is what can be used to connect to another USB adapter if I can source the part number for the factory glovebox USB port.
  11. It may have some residue clogging up the throttle body preventing you from opening it up all the way or even something where the gear is broken but not causing a CEL to come up. I had a broken tooth on my Envoy with the throttle body and it was only a problem when driving. I could manually press the throttle body open and close myself and couldn't detect anything with my finger. I would suggest taking the throttle body off and see if there is a lot of residue on the plate and walls of the throttle body. If it is dirty give it a good cleaning with throttle body cleaner. A useful tip is to grab a old tooth brush with soft plastic bristles and a few q-tips to help in cleaning the throttle body in tight areas. You can also try to push the throttle body closed and fully open when you have the electrical connection disconnected so it doesn't possibly jam up and break a gear. If it has resistance at certain positions or you hear grinding it could just be with built up residue on the throttle body or a broken throttle body gear set. I make it a point to clean my throttle body every year from past issues with my Envoy where it was always super filthy. It's cheap insurance IMO. I also would doubt it would be this but check your mass airflow sensor if it is dirty (I believe the 4.3 has it but I could be wrong, I know for sure the 5.3 and 6.2 have one). That shouldn't change throttle position and limit you as that is based off of torque management but it's worth a quick check. edit: I think there is a parameter you can see with a basic scan tool for pedal position and throttle body position to see if you have a problem with where the pedal is not seeing anything over ~30% command and the pedal is the culprit. I can't remember the exact parameters for both of those pid's but I believe they are listed for you to look into.
  12. Has anyone swapped their USB hub prior to having the newer HMI upgraded? I have a newer one coming in the mail and was thinking to swap it out prior to getting my new HMI/Radio from WAMS but didn't know if that would hurt anything.
  13. I didn't get to test on our version of the HMI at work but a coworker has the next gen radio on a 18 Trax and that worked to play music from my USB drive as well as turn down the sound and play directions while viewing the screen on android auto so I think it would work on the 2.5 HMI.
  14. Dang that is what I was fearing would be the case. I am having WAMS program the HMI. I guess I will have to take a peek at one of my trucks at work and see if it will allow me to combine audio but I was pretty sure you can't do that unless it's OEM navigation or onstar.
  15. I would double check that bushing area. In my case I had the lift gate start to become super easy to drop and it would drop fast and bounce once it hit the cable limits. I had loaded up the bushing on the passenger side with silicone lube (the squeeze type of lube not spray) and then used spray silicone lubricant to spray the death out of the drivers side where the rod comes out of the tailgate and reinstalled the tailgate. It was slower to lower but a tiny bit harder to raise the tailgate up. I then had went to drive on the beaches at Outer Banks and it managed to get some sand to cake up on the silicone lubricant I packed in on the passenger side bushing. It moved fine but this winter when it was really cold the tailgate was extremely hard to open up and close. I cleaned out the passenger bushing again and it is working like new again. Edit: I also had unbolted the passenger bushing assembly from the truck and sprayed silicone lube on the area behind and inside of the oval turn key to help it move easily. You will need to remove the passenger taillight if you choose to go this route. If I remember correctly you will also need a wrench to hold the one nut on the back side while you unbolt the torx screw on the other side. So really just double check that your passenger side bushing is not cracked and if it isn't cracked proceed with cleaning the bushing and the cavity where it is inserted into and then spread some silicone lube on the bushing and inside of the cavity on the passenger side, then spray the black bushing on the drivers side of the tailgate and it should help you out.
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