A buddy of mine had fixed the issue by bypassing the OEM control wire on the alternator and using an external voltage regulator for the alternator. He shorted out the two pins on the OEM alternator harness which will stop the battery light from the dash lighting up and he also used a Mechman adjustable voltage regulator to control the charge voltage himself. What I don't know is if the voltage reading on the dash will be accurate or if it just relays what the PCM wants to get out of the alternator when you short the control wires on the alternator. This is the external regulator he
i have only done that once so far in my almost 30 years on the earth. I did it in my 14 Silverado too. It was a completely clear day out but was windy and I was cleaning the interior out and stopped to eat dinner and had the windows totally down in the front doors and it soaked the hell out of the pleather on the doors and the controls. I was worried more about the switches since those are notorious to not appreciate getting wet but thankfully they are alright.
Is that clip from the rubber dust seal area? If so it is there to help hold the rubber dust seal on and with it missing it will sling grease out and eventually fail the u-joint. If it's just the c-clip that holds in the u-joint caps (I don't think it is but it's possible since i'm not sure if the caps that are bolted on have inner locking holding clips and the ones in the ear of the driveshaft/yoke are as Cam mentioned and are held in with nylon that needs to be melted to get them pressed out) then you will be fine so long as the bolts holding the ears on are tight.
0 water leaks and the voice button and onstar button on the mirror respond when I press them and the red light flashes when I try onstar but it goes back to being out when the call fails to establish.
that is why I mentioned on replacing the antenna but my light doesn't even show red, it's just totally out and I have no onstar account listed on the mychevrolet site and my XM radio doesn't show either any longer on there.
I have an odd question. I noticed for the past few months that my OnStar light on the mirror is not lit up at all. It will flash red when I press the onstar button but it never connects to a representative. I have not paid for onstar in almost 2 years but even when I canceled onstar in the past the light would still show up as red for not having an active service plan enabled. I also noticed that my XM radio does not play anything on channel 1 or 100 which should play their advertisements for getting XM. I know I either have a bad roof antenna as occasionally my compass on the dash will just d
those connections have a small red locking tab and it looks like it is on the lower left corner of your picture. pull that back and push the white connector forward in the picture as it looks to be and it will swing over and once you push it enough you will be able to get the connector loose and pull it off. Getting it back on you need to keep that white swivel lock fully open and push the connector in fully and then swing the white part over to begin locking it in and close it up together.
I went from the good for a year wranglers that came with my truck to BFG All-terrains. I love the traction but the fuel economy greatly suffered and it rides like a 2500 now but i'm okay with that. I didn't buy my truck for fuel economy or a SUV ride style for comfort. I would much rather have a tire that gives me a ton more traction than the highway tires can offer and I am fully satisfied with my BFG's.
how does your radio sound? I am pretty sure that the T1's are the same as the K2 in the sense that the chimes all play from the left front dashboard speaker. Can you hear music playing from that speaker? If so then it might be an issue where the radio has a programming glitch and maybe either unplugging the battery for awhile or whatever fuse powers the radio/amp would help correct it. If you have no audio from that part of the speakers then it could be a broken speaker or wiring issue or even the amp. Does your truck have the bose radio or just the lower level radio?
Your build is really nice! Great job on the enclosure and setup. I wish my 14 had a higher seat height like you get on the crew cabs since I have a DC audio level 3 12 that is too high to fit under the seat. I just threw my box upright on the floor with the passenger side of the bench flipped up. I mounted my Sundown Audio SAX200.4 to the underside of the larger side of the bench seat. I noticed the same point as you about turning down the bass level on the radio to prevent premature clipping/distortion. I have my bass level set to 3 taps above the lowest level and I can get the vo
Well I will be damned. Rockauto has failed me and lists the old style sensor that has the ring style sensor where if I look on GM parts direct it shows the same sensor you have mounted directly to the stud on the battery. Sorry I assumed they were right with their parts listing showing the same sensor my truck has, I even looked at the 2020 and 2021 series and they all show the old style. From what I can see both sensors have 3 wires going to them but I could not see the actual sensor online to verify the pinout of the new sensor you have and compare it to the old ring style sensor
I can suggest something else for you. I had this issue on my 2014 as well when I changed the pads. If you have pads with a metal backing plate that sits in between the main thick metal backer of the brake pad and where it is clamped on by the caliper you may have some rust inside of there or just the metal rubbing. My slide pins are lubed up with silicone and the pistons move like brand new. I also bleed my brake fluid and vacuum it out every year just to try and prevent my lines from rotting out from the inside out. What I would do is get a helper and have them press t
GM never changed the sensor between the K2 and new T1 trucks. It's the same wire gauge and everything as the previous versions. You just need to find something that has a small enough outside diameter or is soft enough to make the wire become somewhat oblong instead of round to jam it in the sensor.
as you found out the stepper motor won't set a CEL for a broken tooth inside the motor. My fiance had the fuel level sensor on her old car do the same thing except it would trigger a CEL at random but typically whenever she filled up the gas tank past 3/4 of a tank and start to use up the gas it would make the fuel gauge go to a full tank of gas and then to empty and set the alert for running out of fuel and then go back to normal for the actual gas in the tank. I pulled the pump out of her gas tank since it was super easy to do without dropping the tank and I had found that the li
Something I wondered but don't think is possible would be to leave the factory sensor and wiring alone and add another sensor perhaps in series for the sensing wires (I would need to see which one is data and which one is the +5v reference and ground) and add the aftermarket cables through that. It does look like the new sensor is still 3 wire but maybe the resting rating on the wires is different from the older clamp on style to the new closed sensor. I also looked at rockauto and found 2 revisions for the older sensor. Neither are able to be opened but I see that one
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