and since it was mentioned above the owners manual can be found online for free at https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2014/chevrolet/silverado_1500/2014_chevrolet_silverado_owners.pdf The maintenance manual is found at https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2014/chevrolet/silverado_1500/2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500.pdf
Before you change the transmission or flush it, see how dirty it is. If it's really dark brown and burnt smelling I would not recommend changing it since your transmission is burned out. Transfercase fluid gets neglected a lot too so check how thick that is if you have 4 wheel drive. Definitely flush out the radiator fluid. I recommend getting a blaster that you hook up to the garden hose and the air compressor to force out any gunk that has built up over the usage of the fluids. As others said, brake fluid. Change the front and rear differential fluid (front only applies if you have 4 wheel drive). Change the spark plugs if they have not been done already, they are rated for 100k and make sure you replace with iridium plugs. As others mentioned inspect all of the belts on the truck, there are 3 (one long belt for your water pump, crank, alternator. Another belt for just the air compressor and another belt for just the vacuum pump). You can change them all at home but I recommend a belt installation/removal tool for the stretch belts that you have on the air compressor and vacuum pump. A small point I like to make every year is to clean off the carbon buildup on the back of the throttle body and if it's a little dirty clean the MAF sensor. I always remove the throttle body and MAF from the truck when I clean them up.
I would start by asking them if there are any loose components or parts that are bent. Are the bushings worn down? I also would make them take you in the back to your truck and have them show you everything is solid. If your front end is off the ground you can grab the tires at the 3 and 9 oclock position to see if you have any wiggling in the wheel before the steering wheel begins to turn. If you do then you know that's where your problem lies. Get a detailed print out of the alignment that shows where each alignment is at on your truck. And does your truck pull if you drive in the middle of the road? Roads all have curves to them so water can drain off the surface. Driving on the left most lane will make my truck want to turn to the left and driving on the right most lane makes my truck want to drive to the right. Getting in the middle of the road makes it stay straight ahead without any input on the wheel.
Jack up the front end and make sure that the inner and outer tie rods are not loose as well as your balljoints and bushings. Like previously mentioned your mileage is high and suspension parts tend to wear out around 100k and need to be replaced. Also I would double check how much play you have in the steering wheel. You should see an immediate movement in the front tires if you barely bump the wheel when the front end is off the ground. If all the suspension components looks fine my next place i'd start is looking at your brakes. Make sure you don't have a caliper hanging up and causing the pads to drag on the rotor. If you have a temperature gun you can go for a drive and see what the temperatures read on the rotors at each wheel. That helps figure out which one is dragging since it will be hotter than the other rotors. edit: I have never really heard it happening but wouldn't hurt to check. Look at your front wheel hubs and check for any excess movement or noise in them.
It may be hard to tell since it's dirty but what does it smell/feel like? It could be the rear main seal as diyer2 mentioned or the seal where the torque converter meets the shaft inside the bell housing.
Front center console: USB to SATA hard drive bay with a 512gb solid state drive installed in it, my windshield mount for my cell phone, fast charge cigarette adapter for my cell phone, change holder (never gets used but it's there if my ezpass breaks and I need a little change), notepad, pen, and a log I use to track my mileage and how much fuel I put in every time I fill up along with what grade of fuel I used. Front center seat: OBD2 bluetooth adapter, small/outdated map of WNY but good in a pinch if I had no cell phone or whatever, small pigtail adapter to use in the rare event the security bypass module for my remote start fails and I can't start the truck (all I would need to do is just connect that jumper and it will put the security wire back to factory and I can start the truck from the key again), LED flashlight, nail file and nail cutter. Front dashboard/glovebox: a pair of gloves (who would have thought, gloves in a glovebox), owners manual, proof of insurance, registration, small bottle of ibuprofen, a few imodium pills that never get touched, small bundle of tissues and napkins, cigarette lighter that is unused, the little pouch you can stick your ezpass in if you don't want it to get read when going through a toll. Underneath rear seats: a few small towels, fire extinguisher, tire pressure checking tool (one of the long ones you can use on semi's), small blanket, bungee cords, 5 or 6 long ratchet straps, spare pair of headlight bulbs, ungodly long tow strap, 2 gauge copper jumper cables. Truck bed: nothing but the somewhat leaky ranch truck cap.
kickass audio replied to Donstar's topic in Garage & Home, Snow Plowing, Landscaping, & Lawn CareThat toolbox at costco looks like a good one for yourself. I have 2 toolboxes. I have my dads old 3 piece craftsman that's similar to the one aseibel posted but has a couple extra drawers for the bottom tier and I have a 2 piece one as well. I originally bought the 2 piece one used on facebook classifieds for $70. The 2 piece is alright but I did not care for the bottom opening where it's not a drawer and is just a flip up compartment for larger tools. It also had the top most drawer on the set was supposed to be used as a ledge. The previous owner showed me that you can remove the drawer and turn it upside down and it will be just like a normal drawer but it will not lock which is fine with me since I never lock my tools up in the house or garage. I wound up putting my 2 piece set in the basement and my 3 piece in the garage. Have you considered maybe doing that with a toolbox in both places or did you want just a big toolbox for everything to fit into?
i'm not sure how slotted/drilled rotors would hold up to the mountains of salt that gets put on the roads in Western New York. The rotors are perfect on my truck with 45k miles on them so I just wanted pads only. If I had the money and was hauling stuff I would definitely upgrade the calipers and everything with some Wilwood big brake kits. edit: Does that also seem like a norm for these trucks to have rear pads serviced sooner than the fronts? I don't know what the previous owner of my truck did for service/use on the truck since it was a lease but it seems odd that at 45k i'm getting close to needing rear pads. Is it maybe due to having the stabilitrak kick on a ton but that seems unlikely that it would burn out the pads that fast.
I did see some ac delco police ones on rock auto but they were semi-metallic as opposed to the OEM ceramics the truck came with and they had the same problem where the pads were not covering a good deal of the backing plate.
I tried to find this online and could not find it all and I know it was mentioned in the past. What part # did members upgrade to for the rear brake pads on the K2's? I'm pretty sure I need to get new rear pads this spring since last fall I was down to maybe a little over 1/4 of the life left on them. My fronts have plenty of life and maybe are at 3/4 of their life left on the pads. I know my pads and calipers are not sticking at all because the rotors are the same temp while driving and stopping as well as I just bled out the fluid in the brake lines this past summer and regreased all of the slide points and slidepins on the brakes both in the front and rear with napa silicone grease. I figured my pads are worn down with the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir being down past the full mark quite a ways since I topped off the fluid after I bled all 4 cylinders out with new fluid so it wouldn't rust out the lines. I looked at NAPA and their pads in the picture seem to have more material that goes further to the outside where the ears are. What part # did everyone use with the factory ones? I don't really haul heavy loads all that often so the stock brakes are fine but I figured that maybe if I had more contact area on the rear pads, I wouldn't be throwing my money away with replacing them all the time.
You really don't need a puller. What I did to remove my arms was to pull up the plastic cover at the very bottom of the arms and then use a ratchet and socket to unbolt the nut that secures the arm to the stud. The nut is on with threadlocker so it will be hard to get loose the first time around. Once it's off you will then need to take your hand and push on the arm right where the wiper arm has the hinge that allows you to put the blades off of the window. That will loosen it from the mounting tab. Once it's loose you can take the arm and adjust it as needed. You will need to adjust it a little at a time, probably 1-2 spots on the arm. You will find that there are teeth marks on the inside of the wiper arm so you can't do any fine tuning but you will be able to get it right.
Glass break takes a ton of adjusting. You never want it straight near a window. On my old truck it was glued in a hole just in front of the optic sensor in the dash and when it would hail out or rain really hard the damn thing would go off. I had to turn it down really far which of course meant that my windshield would be set off along with the front doors but the rear doors and rear glass would have to be banged on really hard with a wrench to make it chirp for warning. I would not recommend exterior motion sensors. Those are more annoying than anything since people walking by can set them off. That's why I opted for the interior motion sensor only.
As 1slow1500 pointed out DEI is a good brand. I have an old viper 5901 I had in my 2004 Envoy that I switched to my silverado and it works great. I love the unit but hate how DEI killed customers who are not paying vendors from programming their dball units. I was able to program them for like 2 years on my own and only had 2 modules, one for my truck and another for my girlfriends car and then they axed my account. I have since switched the bypass unit to idatalink and I have the bypass programmed to use the 2 way data mode just like the DEI units would. The only thing I liked about the DEI bypass is that it allowed me to have the windows roll up when I armed the truck but that bypass never was able to get my truck to crank or run on remote start. It would only get the ignition to turn on and just sit there. If you are inclined to do a bunch of wiring it can be done at home. I highly recommend following the wiring schematic online and prepping the wires that you can connect together outside of the vehicle. The wires that you need to connect to the truck you can do like I did and just put a little piece of paper on each wire telling you what it is for and what it connects to so that it helps simplify your install. I am only running my Viper 5901 unit with the idatalink ads-alca bypass module at the current time. I will be putting my glass sensor in the truck but I need to find a way to remove the upper dome light in the middle of the headliner so I can put my sensor there. I also will be putting the interior motion sensors in the truck too. With the bypass module set in 2 way mode it will set off the alarm for shock (pretty damn useless as the sensitivity is cranked and I have it ziptied to the metal brace in the dashboard under the wheel) and it will alarm on when any of the doors open or the hood opens since I have the factory remote start. I also tied into the defrost wire but had to wire up my own relay for it so it would apply + power and not ground like my dumbass did and shorted out the remote start and had to buy a new transistor pack for the remote start brain lol. edit: this is the install guide for DEI units if you buy the idatalink ADS-ALCA bypass unit like I did. Note: You will need to buy a programming cable for programming the ads-alca and you will need to use internet explorer to program it after you create a personal account for it. http://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-GM12/DBI-AL(DL)-GM12-EN_20170421.pdf
The mirrors should definitely be warm to the touch. You won't feel it with gloves on but if you have your bare hand on them you should feel it near the center of the mirror. Do you happen to have an infrared temperature gun? I used mine on the mirrors to detect what temperature they were warming up at as well as where the hot spot is (it's pretty much straight in the middle). When I hooked up my aftermarket remote start I tied into the defrost wire to have my glass (useless to heat up since I have a cap on the truck) and mirrors heated up when it's cold out. Take a look at the RPO codes in the glovebox or maybe yours are in the door jamb. I know GM was going to switch the location for the codes instead of having them in the glovebox. You should have DL8 at the very least. You could have DL3 mirrors if it has the turn signal and puddle lamp feature as well as power fold in mirrors. If you have DL8 like I do it's heated and power adjustment but manual fold. When you checked the mirror was it after awhile of running? The defrost will turn off after you have been driving for awhile. Mine take like 2 minutes to get up to temperature when it's really cold out. Was your back window warm at all?
It's only the mirror itself. Warming up the body of the mirror will accomplish nothing for you to see people behind you lol. If you were to put a thermometer up to it, the glass gets to like 70 some odd degrees once it is warm. Also being you have a 2018, you may also be able to roll down your windows if you hold the unlock button. I don't have that feature in my 14 LT but it is one of the many little secrets to the truck.
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