kickass audio

I would double check the joint between the sides of the condenser and the fins. Mine broke at 65k miles and I replaced it myself with a new condenser from Napa. It seems a whole lot better for quality than the OEM GM one (same for the radiator I just had replaced a few months ago too). It's been 3 years now on my new condenser and it's been working great. The price cost me about as much as taking it into the shop for work since I had decided to buy a vacuum pump from harbor freight and a set of manifold gauges from there too along with the cost of the PAG oil, a little top off of the transmission fluid and the cans of R134a to refill the system. It already leaked out totally before I started my work so there was no recovery needed as it all bled out from the crack in the condenser. For parts, this is what I bought: - A new rubber gasket for the seal between the condenser and lineset on the passenger side - new condenser (obviously) - PAG oil - cans of R134a (I think I used almost 3 of the small little cans - an adapter for tapping/piercing the R134a cans to allow refilling the system through the manifold gauge service port - manifold gauge from harbor freight - vacuum pump from harbor freight - a small bottle of Dexron VI to top off the trans fluid - jiffy tite removal kit since using a pick on the quick disconnects will loosen up the clip and I don't like doing that plus I use the crap out of the kit now on other vehicles in the family.

I may not have the newer model year but could it perhaps be something like a missed call notification that is incorrectly showing up? On my 14 if you miss a call it will show the exclamation on the call icon until I disconnect and reconnect from the truck like if I fail to acknowledge the missed call by going into my call history from the HMI itself or if I do acknowledge the call history from the HMI without restarting the truck. Do you have anything like an onstar call that it tried to run through and is failing there?

like previously said it usually means you have a problem with low or overcharge on the refrigerant. Grab a cheap set of the gauges from harbor freight and check your low and high pressures with the temperature outside. Also depending on your ambient temp outside if it's really cold you won't need the compressor to run 100% so it will cause it to flip the clutch on and off. You can try to set the thermostat on the dash to full cold and full defrost which usually forces the compressor to run all the time. You also might have an issue where the pressure switch is failing (usually doesn't happen too often) or the TXV is failing and causing the pressure to go really high on the high side and it protects itself by command the clutch to disengage. Also before you just slammed refrigerant in the system did you look for a leak anywhere? Don't make the mistake my dad did where he would buy 2 massive canisters of R134a and eventually blew the compressor from a constant leak and never putting any oil in the system or fixing the leak and pulling a vacuum to remove the moisture in the system.

that's why I feel yours does not have that bolt. Mine is a LT and there is a bolt right above where the speaker is and where the window switches are but since your panel it totally different and you have nothing in that place your screw in the picture does not exist at all. Don't forget to pull the plastic cover where your outside mirror mounts since that will be hung up a bit in the door when you yank the panel off.

like Cam said it's the door check and is easy to replace yourself with a basic socket set. The nuts and bolts do have threadlocker on them so they are hard to remove but not impossible. You just need to pull the inner door panel off to remove the broken piece of the door check floating around in the door and unbolt the single bolt you see attached to the a-pillar of the door area and then undo the 2 nuts that hold the door check to the inside of the door itself. Remove the door check from the inside of the door and push the new door check into the door and bolt it back up. edit: for the removal of your door panel itself, I think that the 2 bolts you found inside the grab area of the door panel, the single bolt behind the exit handle, and the 2 at the bottom edge of the panel are all you need to get out. I haven't seen the style of the new crank windows but it likely just needs to be pried off which is super hard to do. Check and see if you can find a tiny c-clip on the handle where it secures the handle to the window crank shaft and if you have a small pick you can pull it.

I would never use any stop leak because that crap always ruins the system despite how many companies claim it's safe and won't gum up. Look at the picture I posted and take a look at the rad in that spot for a small hairline crack.

I just don't see how it would work. you need the hardware to get it all to work not just software. Maybe you could have a lower end hardware set where you pay on a payment plan to use the feature but it's not as fast or feature rich as an upgraded line that has the full hardware capability built in. Think of it like your computer, if you want more multitasking capability, you can't just buy more processor or RAM when you need it, you need the hardware at all times and once you have the hardware you can either expand or redact how much you want for resources.

I wouldn't buy into the pay for x features you want if the vehicle is equipped with it from the factory. It's like the GM supercruise. you need to pay for that subscription like blondestar for it to work, without paying for it, you don't get it. that's nonsense. I can see paying for upgrades on the maps and things like that and updates but not just to use the feature.

45k on what I assume was the original radiator/thermostat when I bought the truck at the dealer and again at 83600 on the radiator that was just replaced. Seems like my record is around 40k miles it cracks a radiator. Time will tell how long this one I just had put in lasts.

Here is a picture of the spot to check for a crack in the radiator. If you look directly at the top of the radiator from inside the engine bay you will spot this area. Mine had cracked just inside where the white arrow is pointing at. This picture shows the aftermarket NAPA rad which seems to have thicker tabs and does not have the little hole drilled in the middle of that support tab that holds the top rail to the side of the radiator. If you want to check the area where I found the leak just look at the edge that steps down from the side of the radiator where the tip of the white arrow is pointing at. If you see a hairline crack you are going to be slowly losing fluid over time. In all my times the rad had failed it never resulted in puddling but it had made the fluid go down about 1/8" on the overflow every month or 2. I just worried about leaving it since I am planning a long drive this summer and didn't need a radiator to split on the drive.

I ended up having the shittyrado go into the shop this week since it decided to be a pain in the ass with the 4 wheel drive where i stupidly left it on auto 4wd overnight and when I got in the next morning it was locked in 4 wheel drive and had it throw an actuator code. It fixed itself after I got to work though and left it sit for a hour in 2wd mode but still, just another dumb thing this truck does to be a piece of crap. I had the shop swap the radiator for me while they were taking a look at the actuator and the radiator they put in is from napa and seems to have a thicker upper rail on the radiator so time will tell if this one breaks as well like the 2 OEM ones did. I will say that the NAPA one does not allow the trans cooler lines to slip the plastic safety lock over the c-clip like the OEM does. The oil cooler lines will let the plastic safety lock slip over the c-clip.

No, a pressure test won't show it unless you leave it sit for hours it will barely drop down. It's only something where you smell the fluid when fully hot. You can see the crack on the top of the radiator, it's very fine. Look at the top of the radiator where it meets the plastic tanks on the side of the radiator. If you look close you will find a support bracket that has the top rail of the radiator tack welded to the edge of the black tanks on the side of the radiator and there will be a hairline crack on it right where it goes down off the edge. You will find a little drill hole in the middle of that area, that is where it begins to split open. If it wasn't sleeting outside i'd go take a picture and point out the area to look at for you.

since mine is a 14, i can't find a new OEM thermostat that can adapt to my factory lines. My factory lines are connected to the thermostat with the use of the jiffy-tite connectors, not the newer style where the lines mate up to the thermostat with a flange and bolt on. I really don't want to put totally new lines on the trans since (knock on wood) they are not leaking at the moment but i'm sure they will since my oil cooler lines are weeping a little every now and then. I also never looked close enough at the body of the thermostat to see if it's corroded badly from the road salt to the point I can't attempt to take it apart without destroying it. I'm assuming the only option I have is to buy the older style thermostat, seals and run the pill flip on it and put it back together and flush the traditional dexron vi with the newer dexron vi full synthetic? is that right?

Just to ask, what is the idea on changing from the traditional dexron vi fluid to the newer full synthetic dexron vi that acdelco has? I changed my fluid in the trans by performing a full flush with a new filter 4 years ago at 52k miles and i'm now at 83k miles. The trans runs fine for me but figured I would ask if it's worth spending more for full synthetic vs the standard dexron vi fluid. The fluids i'm looking at are the ac delco 10-9395 and the ac delco 10-9244. The 10-9244 is full synthetic. I did not perform a pill flip mod on my 14 and run at the typical 194 for the trans temp after a long run.

have you pulled the air box and looked at the throttle body to see if it's loaded up with oil from the evap system and is jamming up the blade a little? Also look at the Mass Air Flow sensor to see that it's not filthy too. Something the 14's and above had is that they are drive by wire and if you watch carefully the gas pedal will have a bit of a dead zone because the pedal is not tightly bolted to the firewall and the bottom area of the pedal on the firewall will give way as you depress the pedal. My fix was to use rubber paddles from my old snowblower to wedge behind the pedal and against the firewall. That problem would only be noticed when you slightly tap the gas you will have a bit of a dead spot before the RPM reacts to you pressing the gas.