I purchased the OEM overhead console with homelink and the harness for it along with the OEM tailgate lock/unlock module with wiring from Chris and had an amazing experience. Everything was packaged with care and it arrived really fast. I definitely would recommend Chris if anyone is looking to buy anything from him.
Try checking the quality of the power and ground going to the light. How is the high beam on the drivers light? Does that have a problem lighting itself? I doubt your female ends on the connector going into the bulb are spread apart to make it a loose connection that is dropping your light out but double check that. Did you change the bulb with HID or LED's? I upgraded my 2014 to HID projectors and found when it gets colder than 30 outside, it will fail to fire the light on the drivers side when my voltage was above 14.4v. It turned out my ballast was faulty and I swapped it and it has been perfect since. Try seeing if the issue is any better when you have the lights on with the truck off. The headlights will be getting a pulse width modulated signal on the normal mode when daytime running lights are on and it will give a full battery voltage at night or when you turn the knob manually. Something to try would be to take the light and swap it between sides, plug your passenger side light assembly on the drivers and see if the issue is still present on the drivers side. If it is then my next guess is a wiring problem or a problem with your body control module since that is what gives the PWM signal to the lights for your DRL. Try double checking your wiring under the dash for the body control module and make sure it isn't burned or loose. I don't know if it has an independent wire for drivers and passenger. If it does have independent wire, you can wire an external relay and hook it to the passenger side and it should stop your problem since the trigger is coming from the passenger side for the drivers light at that time.
Are the headlights setup with wires going into them that are controlled for the parking lights along with the low/high beam light wire? If so I can share my experience with changing this in my 2014 headlights that had the crap halogen lights. My goal was to not have DRL's but retain automatic headlights/parking lights when it gets dark out or when the wipers are on. What I did was probe the wires going into the headlight harness to find which one is the parking light wire (it will only have +12v constant when the parking lights are on, 0v when the parking lights are off and 0v so long as the turn signals are not on and the high beam wire is not on. Also, the parking light wire will also not have a PWM signal when your daylight sensor bulb in the dash is detecting sunlight. Once you find that wire you can either take the current low beam + wire and cut it and splice it into the parking light wire or you can use the parking light wire as a trigger to an external relay as I did for my HID's. You don't want to connect the relay directly to the low beam or DRL circuit since they will have a pulse width modulation signal and it will fry your aftermarket lights.
I had a similar experience with my moms old car. We replaced the blown shock on the hood and the leaking shock on the trunk of her car. The hood was fine but the trunk would launch itself open and you had to fight to shut it. She wound up getting rid of the car but even after a year of using the shocks it was super hard to close the trunk. I bought cheap shocks for it off amazon so that's probably why they were not the greatest to use. Is the strut on your truck a single strut or is it a pair? If it's a pair, try taking one off and see how it holds the hood.
You are in the right mentality of using a bottle jack. You can always get a cheap harbor freight floor jack or borrow one from a friend. How I did mine was to unbolt both of the rear trans mount bolts from the cross frame, jack up the transmission by the rear tail housing as high as I could go (be careful so you don't crush the cooler lines at the top of the trans) and then use a vacuum pump to shove it down the trans dipstick tube all the way to suck out as much trans fluid from the pan. Once you vacuum it out as much as possible unbolt the trans pan. It will get hung up on the cross pipe but a secret to getting it out of there is to use your finger nails to pry the rubber gasket from the pan and once it is totally free from the pan, slide the rubber gasket to the back and turn it out of the way from the pan. Drop the front end of the pan.near the engine down and swing the pan out of the way. It's a bit of playing around but it's totally possible. One small idea is if you have some 2x4's, cut one longer than the distance from the tail piece of the trans to the ground and bang the 2x4 in along the ground to use it as a lever to push the trans up.
I don't have the same edition silverado as you but my 14 I keep the BFG All-terrains inflated to 45psi cold and after thruway driving it goes up to 49-50psi in the front and stays at 47-48 psi in the rear. My tires are worn perfectly even on the front and rear and across the whole tire. I do rotate my tires from side to side and front to back twice a year though but they still are totally flat for wear.
do you have anything aftermarket for a remote start? Some idiot (me) didn't pay attention to the wire polarity of my rear defroster and when I triggered it to work from the aftermarket remote start it didn't warm my mirrors so I pressed the button on the dash and it shorted the aftermarket remote start and would not let the truck shut off and the horn was blasting non stop until I blew one of the two horns. I ended up having to disconnect the aftermarket remote start and replaced the blown part on it but just last weekend gave up on the aftermarket remote start since it randomly sets off my alarm for no reason. What I would suggest would be to unplug the horn and test power on the wire harness. I am fairly certain the +12v should be live at all times and the ground will ground out when the horn is called to run since GM usually loves to switch the grounds and leave the hot wires on. If it doesn't have continuity on one of the two wires then that would tell me that the BCM that controls the horn and the horn switch in the wheel is fine and your horns itself is probably faulty. Otherwise if the wires are live at all times then you need to find where the short exists, whether a wire was chewed up and is making contact somewhere along the way or something else.
I had a little bit of the free service remaining when I bought mine off a lease and purchased the navigation while I was down south for vacation 2 years ago since my cell phone would work fantastic but had a problem while navigating where the phone would get super hot and stop charging and the battery would drain FAST. It was nice having the directions show on the instrument cluster and have alerts instead of looking over to the windshield where my phone is mounted but it lacks traffic analysis of delays and the stops you can make on the way for gas, food, etc. I just replaced my XM antenna on the roof since it had water damage inside and my compass kept coming on and off as it runs through the sharkfin and will never buy onstar again. I am just mounting my phone to the windshield and will put the defroster on to put some cold air on it during the summer when the sun is beating on my phone to keep it cool and fully charged. I also have an aftermarket remote start installed that is a bit of an annoying pain the ass where it fails to start intermittently and sometimes sets off the alarm when called to start but I can run the starter for a hour straight (never run it more than 15 minutes if it's super cold and my truck is frozen in ice but still nice to not have to run back out and restart the timer if you wanted to) but it's a longer range (1 mile line of sight) and is a 2 way remote so I know it reached the truck.
I flushed mine out at I believe 36-38k and plan to do so again next year. I always burp the bleeders now every year just to keep them freed up so it doesn't snap off on the caliper like I have had in the past. I honestly swear my brakes are way better for stopping power after I flushed them out 2 years ago. They never were a problem but after doing that and changing the pads to napa's high end pads I have way better braking power than I ever had. I'm not sure if you just cracked the bleeders and let them gravity feed but when I flushed mine, I used my mityvac pump and bleeder rubber fittings to fit on the bleeder and started with the rear passenger caliper then went to the drivers rear, passenger front and drivers front in that order. I kept an eye on the reservoir to make sure it never went empty and used prestone brake fluid. I did go on a gravel road after bleeding them to force the ABS to kick in but that was only twice that I did that, it didn't seem to help any aside from the bleeding/flushing but I wanted to do that just to be safe.
One of my friends Steve Meade has it working as a bypass. You will just need to jumper the OEM 2 pin connector at the alternator and get an external regulator for the alternator. You can adjust the voltage manually with the external regulator to your liking. Since you are in Canada i'm not sure if there are any alternator guys up there but Mechman alternators is where I bought my last 3 alternators from and they sell an external regulator: https://www.mechman.com/accessories/voltage-control-modules/adjustable-external-regulator-w-2-pin-alt-harness/ that you can hook up and use to fine tune your voltage to stay stable. My voltage was climbing up really high at first start and anything above 15v would make the HVAC shut down and come back on several times until after about a solid minute of running from startup it would drop the voltage down to 14.7 and keep the HVAC running fine. Prior to today I did have my OEM battery as well as an aftermarket battery under the hood and I only ran one of the 1/0 gauge ground cables to the OEM battery from the alternator and had it go through the hall effect sensor. I had the other 1/0 gauge ground cable go from the alternator to the second battery under the hood and since the factory hall effect sensor is so small I couldn't jam that through the sensor if I tried. I only took my truck out for a test ride today and my voltage didn't seem that high to shut off the HVAC so time will tell. If it keeps that crap up I am definitely getting an external regulator and jumping the OEM 2 pin connector out to remove the check battery light on the dash. edit: my voltage was perfectly fine with 2 batteries until I swapped out the alternator from the stock alt to a 370A alternator. once I did that then my voltage climbed a ton and would fluctuate even with no music on and no change in load other than having the truck just sit at idle. If I rev up the engine the fluctuating voltage would be fine. here is the link on the forum from what I mentioned to just short the alternator connector: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/210401-2015-cadillac-escalade-sound-system-install-the-box-is-started-6-12-subs-clear-acrylic-on-the-menu-update-page-10/?do=findComment&comment=3250545
I had the check trailer wiring message come up on my DIC and I only once had a trailer connected to the 7 way connector on my truck and twice on the 4 pin connector. I noticed that the message just came up at random weeks after I last had a trailer on my 7 way connector. I did previously squeeze diaelectric grease in both connections to help prevent the problem of having any moisture get on the prongs and corrode them away. I looked at the connector and noticed that the diaelectric grease I put in the connector was bridged between pins. What I did to stop my error was to use a tiny plastic zip-tie and remove the jumper of the diaelectric grease that was bridging the gap between the prongs on the connector in the bumper and my message went away immediately. Again, my problem was random in that it came up 4 times with each restart of my truck with no trailer connected for over a month on my truck but it's worth mentioning to maybe help give another place to look at the problem.
A buddy of mine had fixed the issue by bypassing the OEM control wire on the alternator and using an external voltage regulator for the alternator. He shorted out the two pins on the OEM alternator harness which will stop the battery light from the dash lighting up and he also used a Mechman adjustable voltage regulator to control the charge voltage himself. What I don't know is if the voltage reading on the dash will be accurate or if it just relays what the PCM wants to get out of the alternator when you short the control wires on the alternator. This is the external regulator he used: https://www.mechman.com/accessories/voltage-control-modules/adjustable-external-regulator-w-2-pin-alt-harness/
i have only done that once so far in my almost 30 years on the earth. I did it in my 14 Silverado too. It was a completely clear day out but was windy and I was cleaning the interior out and stopped to eat dinner and had the windows totally down in the front doors and it soaked the hell out of the pleather on the doors and the controls. I was worried more about the switches since those are notorious to not appreciate getting wet but thankfully they are alright.
Is that clip from the rubber dust seal area? If so it is there to help hold the rubber dust seal on and with it missing it will sling grease out and eventually fail the u-joint. If it's just the c-clip that holds in the u-joint caps (I don't think it is but it's possible since i'm not sure if the caps that are bolted on have inner locking holding clips and the ones in the ear of the driveshaft/yoke are as Cam mentioned and are held in with nylon that needs to be melted to get them pressed out) then you will be fine so long as the bolts holding the ears on are tight.
0 water leaks and the voice button and onstar button on the mirror respond when I press them and the red light flashes when I try onstar but it goes back to being out when the call fails to establish.
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