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kickass audio

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About kickass audio

  • Rank
    Enthusiast
  • Birthday July 28

Profile Information

  • Name
    Chris
  • Location
    Buffalo, NY
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2014 Chevrolet Silverado LT

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  1. Mine is aimed at the top of the frame rail so I moved it to point almost straight down. I would think if it hit the frame it would bounce off it and some would hit the exhaust but I wouldn't be concerned by it.
  2. Under the hood lighting

    My underhood light is the super cheap/old school method. I have one of the old mercury style switches off a old 1970 something caprice that I just drilled 2 small holes and screwed it under the hood. I mounted it in the center towards the back of the engine and it gives enough light to see things like fuses, battery cables, oil/tranny level, etc. I just poked a small hole in the noise shield under the hood so I could fish my +12v wire from the second battery under the hood to the light and have it on a 5 amp fuse so if it shorts out it won't burn anything in the truck. I did have a LED bulb in the socket for the hood light but the heat from under the hood was so high that it burned up the bulb so I just gave up on it and put a halogen bulb in there instead. The LED worked fantastic for lighting up the engine bay but didn't last more than a month in my silverado. It lasted years in my old Envoy though. If you wanted to, you could get some strip LED lights and a new style tilt switch that is used for car alarms and screw the tilt switch in under the hood so that when it closes the circuit it can send power to your lights. I thought about tapping into the factory hood switch on my truck since I have remote start but didn't want to interfere with anything so I left it alone as it controls my alarm system and both factory and aftermarket remote starts.
  3. Noise When Backing

    I think he means the little metal cap that GM puts over the CV nut on the front wheels. That shouldn't be loose since they are super tight from the factory with how they fit in there. I would play with the parking brake maybe and see if it helps any. Does it do it regardless if it was cold or warm out? How about if it is humid or it just rained the night before? Maybe you have a little surface rust on the rotor but it is making noise when you first start to move. There should be no way your brake dust shields are rusting and making it come into contact with the rotors at your age so I would rule that one out. Something I would check is that all of your brake bolts are nice and tight and that the pads are able to move freely. I would also suggest trying to gently ride your brakes when you back up instead of letting go of the brake. See if it makes any difference when the brakes are applied a little or not.
  4. Bolts in my bed

    Judging by the third hole in the upper left of the picture I assume the last owner bolted something down in there. Maybe a tiny toolbox or antenna. not sure what exactly was in there but someone ripped the holes in there for it.
  5. I know this is an all too common problem for the lovely crimp connections that GM makes but my truck is 2 weeks away from having the powertrain warranty expire and I have had an issue where the oil cooler hoses will have a trace of oil at the end of the crimp. It hasn't gotten to the point where it is spraying or making oil drops on the dust shield at the bottom of the engine. I looked into possibly going through and replacing the lines myself but it looks like a hell of a task to undo the 2 bolts holding the lines to the side of my engine block. I read the powertrain warranty and it said it excludes hoses and lines so i'm certain I am SOL for having it done under warranty and I also worry about having it done just to have a problem with the future lines. I was thinking of leaving the lines alone and just keeping a close eye on them and if it starts to develop any droplets of engine oil I was thinking I could try and figure out a flaring tool to flare the end of the lines and just use a rubber line and a clamp to secure the line. The only problem I see with this is the oil pressure being so high in stage 2 that it would blow off the line even with the flare and clamp. I also am not sure what kind of tool it is called that flares the pipe like a bubble in the middle and not just a normal flare kit that works at the tip of the pipe. I have a traditional pipe flaring kit but not a specialized flare. Has anyone tried to clamp the line on their truck? I know people have done it to the transmission lines but they remain at low pressures.
  6. Have you always driven a truck?

    I worked my way up to a truck. My first car was a 1998 Oldsmobile 88. Then I sold it for more than my dad bought it for as my graduation present and upgraded to a 2004 GMC Envoy. Then that truck was upgraded to my current 2014 Silverado. I really wanted to get a Tahoe instead of my Envoy but the driveway was small and they were too expensive so I saved money and bought the Envoy instead. I would only ever get rid of my truck if I no longer need to haul things around on the occasion otherwise I plan to eventually get a crew cab and hopefully a standard bed.
  7. Oil Change - Dealership vs DIY

    I prefer doing all my own service. I only go back to the dealer for warranty work or for my free state inspections. It would save me like $10 to do the oil changes at the dealer but I have had too many times in the past where dealers love to put the oil filter on with a damn impact gun and I can't get the thing off the engine so I do it myself. I've also had them leave the fill cap on the top of the intake resonator. So far I have bled out some brake fluid on all 4 calipers (it wasn't even dirty at all but just to keep them from collecting water and rusting out my lines), oil changes, and level inspections on my diff and transfer case. I am going to change out my front diff fluid and transmission fluid next year though just to keep it fresh. My antifreeze was almost clean when the dealer had to replace the thermostat/radiator due to the service bulletin so I will wait a few more years for that and will use one of the air driven water nozzles to blast out any crud in the lines and heater core. If you have the means and know how I always suggest doing it yourself. If it is too much in depth for your experience or you don't have time then take it in.
  8. Paint falling off a brand new truck

    I would call your dealer and explain it. From the mark it might have been bug splatter or bird crap but that usually isn't that tough to make paint peel off. Do you take your truck through "touchless" car washes? Maybe it was pressure washed off.
  9. Heat Only Works When Moving

    I think it's as hillwood mentioned with a partially clogged heater core. If you can start your truck up and let it run for a bit to warm up and grab both your heater core hoses. One should be really hot and the other will be warm. If one hose is burning hot and the other is really cold then you have a clogged heater core and need to try flushing it out to see if you can get it flowing properly again. Another idea is that when your truck is warm and sitting, rev up your engine and see if you get more warmth out of the vents. It will spin your water pump faster to make more coolant flow through the system and would also possibly indicate a clog. edit: If your fan starts out on a low speed and gets very loud after awhile of idling then you probably have a failed fan clutch. The clutch on your truck is thermal and not electric so if it fails it can make it engage at incorrect temperature limits. They are not that bad to replace though. Does your truck take a long time to get up to operating temp?
  10. I apparently am on the original update my truck was built with according to the version date that shows when I go into the development mode on the radio. The funny thing is I notice that every time I go to the dealer for my inspection (I get them for free from the dealer I purchased my truck through) they will do the inspection and then when I get the truck back I noticed the radio is always muted and sitting on the home screen where you pick the icons for the radio, onstar, settings, etc. The version never changes so idk why the dealer does that but it has always been that way whenever I had the dealers inspect the truck for free. I had it taken in twice for service, once for the rear axle shaft to be replaced and another for the radiator/thermostat housing to be replaced under warranty and neither of those times was the radio muted or sitting on the home screen.
  11. Service Rear Camera System

    I have had it twice on my 14 and it fixed itself after I let the truck sit for an hour without anything on. I don't know which one it would be but if you can find a fuse that controls the HMI I would pull that and wait a few minutes and put it back in and see if it helps any. The first time this happened to me my HMI was showing the backup image and I changed gears from reverse to drive 3 times in a few seconds and it stopped showing the image. I let it sit for a half hour and came back and it worked fine again. The second time it happened the error came up while I was backing up and had the image showing for a few seconds and then the radio stopped playing my music and restarted itself. It fixed itself after that reboot. That's the big thing I despise in my truck is the radio for the random times it will reboot itself or if I stop quick and restart the truck it loves to stop playing all of my songs on my usb drive and I have to pull the drive out and reinsert it for it to stop being a pain in my ass.
  12. I had one of my rims that had a rim leak on the inner part of the tire. Being the genius I am (haha) I tried to deflate the tire and use a block and break the bead from the inner part of the rim and clean it up and reseal it but I wound up putting a little dent in the lip on the rim. Nothing that hurt it at all though for longevity. Anyway I found the leak by taking some super cheap hand soap and watering it down and spraying it all around the rim and let it sit for 10 minutes. It had taken that long to show the leaks and I had a good mound of bubbles around the bead. I was losing around 3 psi a week and was just filling it up every time because I was ordering my BFG's in another few months so I just dealt with it. Double check with soapy water if you have a rim leak like I did as well as check the tread area for any pin holes or cracks in the tire. I had the same mileage on my 14 when I ditched the factory SRA's and the one tire leaked 3-5 psi a week depending on how cold it was outside and the other 3 leaked a pound or 2 a month. My new BFG's don't leak an ounce of air and I noticed that the front tires heat up faster than the rears so my pressure is always 2 psi higher in the front tires than the backs until I drive around awhile.
  13. Dual Battery - Smart Alternator

    I had 2 batteries left over from my old truck with a sound system so I threw it under my hood just for the hell of it. I put a 200a fuse between the positive line and ran it along the positive line that comes across the firewall at the top. For ground I ran it on the same path back to the OEM battery on the passenger side. I just had to buy the battery wedge and bolt from ebay as I have a 14 with the battery tray already installed it just doesn't come with the hold down bolt or wedge. I used 4ga OFC stranded wire, the same you would use for amplifiers. I also ran the positive wire through the OEM hall effect sensor so it didn't mess with the charging system by bypassing it. You can only fit at most a 2ga wire through the sensor with the OEM wires in there as well so be advised of that.
  14. Alcohol sensor

    You can view your ethanol content by using an OBD2 adapter and looking under the table for the list of options you can read data from. One of them will say something like ethanol %.
  15. Front Suspension Clunking...help!

    Ball joints are easy to check. Just jack up the truck from under each lower control arm enough to get the tire barely off the ground and then get under the tire with a pry bar and see if you hear clunking or see movement in the ball joints. Grab your cv axle to make sure they aren't toast from your lift if you have 4x4. I had an issue on the rear of my truck where I was driving around for 3 months after taking it in to the dealer for warranty work on my axle seal. For some reason the dealer removed the brakes on the passenger rear and my drivers rear was the culprit but anyway the passenger rear had 1 of the 2 bolts holding the brake caliper mounting bracket to the hub so it was banging around on the backing plate and I only heard it bang when hitting bumps and when I finally took off the wheel it would clunk when I barely tap the brake pedal.
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