looking on rock auto, it shows the dust shields (actually referred to as brake backing plates) at https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1997,c1500+pickup,5.7l+v8,1031555,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+backing+plate,1628 IMHO If the wheel speed sensor for your ABS remains intact without the backing plate, just rip off the part that is rotted out. I was lucky enough to just unbolt the 3 bolts for the backing plate on my old truck and remove the backing plate between the bearing and knuckle and throw them in the trash. For the rears I just cut them out with an air hammer since I didn't want to pull the axle shafts out to properly remove the backing plate. Since you have drum rear brakes you need the backing plate for the pads to work properly and be held in place. On rotors they are pretty useless for the most part.
Does it make the whine on all inputs, radio, ipod, cell phone, etc? If it is from a device you plugged in like your phone or an ipod it could be coming from that device. I had an ipod once where if you plug in the charger and connect it to the radio via the headphone jack it would make a sound like having alternator whine while the battery on the ipod was recharging. You could possibly have a wire that chaffed and is shorting to ground but that is pretty hard to have happen unless someone was messing around under your dash.
That ground might be alright but the problem I see is that the bolt looks bigger than the eyelet opening on your ring terminal. You could ream out the terminal to be large enough to accept the anchor bolt but then you will reduce your grounding capability with less contact to the bolt. If you want a great way to test grounding points without having to drill and grind your own hole, get a cheap multimeter and some wire long enough for you to reach the battery under the hood. Cut a strand of wire to reach from inside the cab to the battery. Read the resistance of the wire from one end to the other and write down this number. Next, connect one end of the wire to the negative battery terminal and then connect the other end of the wire to one of the leads on the multimeter. Use the other lead on the multimeter to touch each bolt point you see and write down the resistance reading your meter gives you. Once you have each reading from contacting all of the bolts/nuts in the truck where you want to ground to, subtract that reading from the reading you made when you tested the resistance of just the wire. That will be your resistance you will experience at each ground point. The one closest to 0 is the best ground possible.
I have the OEM's on my 14 with 48k miles and they are perfect. In my previous vehicle (04 GMC Envoy) I replaced the bearings on the fronts 4 times. They are pretty much the same as my envoy to do on the silverado. All you really need is a good socket set and a cheater bar to crack the bolts loose. If you have an impact gun and some swivel extensions it will work easily for you. I used the impact gun to take off the CV nut and then my ratchet and extension to take off the 3 bolts behind the steering knuckle to remove the bearing. From past experience with my Envoy, I used Napa pro series for the bearings and didn't have to replace them and I put 30k miles on those before I traded it in for my silverado. I had the cheap ones from advance auto and I went through them once a year and I had no lift, modifications, never go off-roading, anything that would degrade your bearings life. I knew mine were failing when I would go to stop at low speeds and the ABS would kick in for a second. Then as it progressed I would hear the moaning when I would turn the wheel at highway speeds.
Hi everyone, I tried to search and did not come across anything. The other day when I was putting my aftermarket remote start in my 2014 Silverado LT All Star edition I looked at the HMI module and noticed the light green plug is totally empty and it looked like it had a mini-usb connector to it. Is this an empty port that can have something hooked up to it or is that how you program these modules? I am pretty sure it's a HMI 2.0 as I do not have navigation and it is the 8" touch screen.
Yupp, as others mentioned you don't have a heated rear glass panel, only the mirrors. My 14 silverado all star has heated mirrors and rear window. The window is pretty useless since I have a truck cap on so it barely gets wet in between the cab and bed cap. In my case the rear defrost button looks different but it turns on the mirrors and rear window heater. The easiest way to tell for sure if you have heated mirrors is to turn it on and use a temperature gun or even your hand and touch the mirror glass. The warming grid is towards the inner most part of the mirror where it hinges. After about 10 seconds you will feel it getting warm.
The onstar is great but you only have that for a few years before they stop the remote key functions from working unless you pay for onstar. The factory range was alright but I did not like having a 1 way remote. I wanted to know if my start command worked and kicked the truck on. I installed my old remote start in the silverado and it is a viper 5901. I used the idatalink ADS-ALCA bypass module to defeat the security system on the truck from the factory. So far it works great. I only screwed up and hooked up the defrost wire to ground when it takes +12v power so it shorted out the remote start and I had to unsolder and resolder the chip to repair it then wire the defrost circuit properly. It isn't a bad task to do and with idatalink you can program it yourself at home after you buy the usb programming adapter. I had a DEI dball2 bypass module and it would get the truck to turn on but never crank. I liked the dball though because it would roll up the windows when I lock the truck. The idatalink doesn't support that. My only comments about aftermarket remote start, with mine when the truck is on remote start, all of the accessories stay on. It is the same as if you have the key in the run position so the radio is on and everything. With the factory remote start, it will keep the accessories all turned off until you put the key in and turn it on. The factory remote start would ramp up the fan speed and put the heated seats on as well if it was cool enough out. The aftermarket one I did not test it in super cold weather yet to see if I have to press the defrost button when I leave the truck or if it will work since i always leave the HVAC in auto mode. For me the factory remote start was nice but the range was sub-par and having 1 way only communication was a big killer for me. If you do get a viper smart start, just know you need to pay for a cell plan for it to work. It is not free so there is still a cost associated with it every month like onstar. Viper has a way cheaper plan than that of onstar but figure out what your needs and desires are and go from there.
Your max tow package is the same as on mine. You will have a brake controller in the dash right above where the knobs are for 4 wheel drive and the exterior lighting. The "enhanced radiator, lol" is just a dual purpose radiator at the very front. If you look inside your grille the radiator you see is 3/4 your A/C condenser coil and the other 1/4 towards the very top is the cooler for your transmission. IMHO it doesn't really do crap to cool the transmission. If i'm on the thruway doing 65-70 I always have a trans temp around 189-195. These transmissions also have a thermostat in them so you can't really over cool them unless you change out that thermostat at the transmission housing.
You can get a power distribution block like this. https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-double-led-meter-single-din-kit-1119.html or without the volt meter https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-quad-color.html They are meant for high amperage power wires though and not something like tiny 12ga wire leads.
I hate to make you spend money but double check your rear sway bar links as well. They usually last a lot longer than the fronts but it wouldn't hurt to make sure they are still okay. All you need to do is take the truck and rock it side to side as if you are trying to flip it over onto it's side. Sway bar bushings and links will clunk when you rock the truck from one side to the other.
You will have no problem. This is a super easy job that anyone can do with a socket set and a wrench set. An impact sure makes quick work if you have really rusty bolts on it but hand tools will work with some swearing and cranking. lol. I found it easier to take off the tires and have even more room for work instead of trying to work around the tire. Once both are loose depending on the condition of your sway bar bushings your sway bar may want to fall down or will stay in place. While you're at it you might as well double check the bushings for the sway bar and if they are bad go ahead and replace them at the same time while everything is apart. It would make for a easier job for you. Don't worry about driving it with the links being shot. As long as you don't take sharp turns at 40 miles per hour you will be fine.
Yupp like others mentioned your sway bar end links are shot. From my own experience they can last around 50-70k miles if you have really bad roads around where you live. The style on our front ends lasts a lot longer than the ball joint style links. Just as a tip, when you go to replace them make sure both front tires are under weight and even. Like jack up just the front end of the truck and put jack stands under both lower control arms and lower the truck down on top of it. If the truck is even slightly off level it will be a giant pain in the butt to get the links off since they will be under load and you won't want to unbolt them as the parts can explode and hurt you. Trust me, my dad did his under weight. If you have problems with rust not allowing you to take the nuts off just take a sawsall to them or use an oxy acetylene torch to cut them out. Just make sure you protect your CV boot from damage. And finally, when tightening the bolts up you don't want to do it to the point where the rubber bushings are totally collapsed. You want them to be pretty close to even for spacing from both the top and bottom bushings on the control arm and sway bar. If you over-tighten the link you will notice one bushing is totally collapsed and swelling outwards a ton where the other bushing on the other side is it's normal thickness.
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