My antenna on my 14 hits whenever I pull into the garage. I've just accepted it and let it alone. I had the little wire that wraps around the antenna break off at the base of the antenna so I tried to cut it off and it kept unwrapping so I just peeled it off and cut it flush with the round nub at the tip of the antenna. I think it broke off from going in and out of the garage but i'm not sure. Mine hits the header of the garage door frame and the garage door as well by like a half inch or so.
Does anyone know the way the fluid flows through the rad? Does it enter the rad on the driver or passenger side? I had my truck running last night and the trans temp only got up to 150 and the lines on the driver side felt warm and the passenger side was cool so I assume it's coming in through the radiator from the drivers side then going up to the aux cooler and exiting the radiator on the passenger side.
That's exactly what I was going to try. He never mentioned getting it hot for it to flow better so we might be fine without it being up to operating temp to run it through like in this video.
If it is slow that's why I change the fluid in the summer when it's around 85 degrees. It is a lot thinner then. For refilling it, I was just going to dump it into the dipstick opening as I am draining it out (thankfully I have a dipstick on the trans unlike most other vehicles that they removed it on). i'm only at 52k miles without a trans drop or flush and it's not bad. It has a slight color to it but not that dark. It also doesn't smell burnt at all so I have that going in my favor.
I thought it still had a little bit of a bypass for it like the thermostat for the engine. If that's the case I can just take it around for a drive and get it nice and hot and let it rip.
I'm alright with that. I buy the stuff by the box at NAPA when I did it last time. I just buy the filter as an ac delco OEM one from rockauto. The only concern for me is really having the disconnect leak after I take it out and the concern of the adaptive relearn. My old trans supposedly had the relearn as it was a 4l60e and it didn't have a problem and I never had it taken in to a shop to initiate the relearn.
I didn't mention I was going to take the return line (whichever one that is) at the transmission and hook that up to my bucket. That way the entire system is getting the fluid ran through it. I just hope that I don't get a leak on the quick disconnect. I had messed with the oil cooler line on the radiator and have a small trace of oil around that area now from when I pulled the c-clip and pulled the line out.
I figured I would first unhook the trans cooler line right off the tranny and run a line in a bucket to capture the fluid and keep pouring in fresh fluid at the same time I am pumping the old out. Once it comes out as clean as it is going in I will just snap off the donut flange that is connecting the cat to the muffler as mine is all rusted so I can't unbolt that and would if needed unscrew the bolts holding the exhaust to the header and drop the pan and change the filter and clean up the magnet. Bolt it back together and fill it back up so it's full.
Just to ask for my own good. You are all mentioning to not back flush the trans but would pulling the oil cooler line and letting the truck sit and run that out hurt any? I did that on my old truck without any problems and that was done at 100k miles but I didn't have a thermostat like this truck has for the trans.
Going through the sheet metal and having a screw protrude to the outside doesn't sound good for water intrusion or rusting. If there is something where it's like 2 layers of metal in the back I would do that for sure. I didn't tear into it yet to see though but if it's just a single layer of metal which is the outside part of the cab I am not going to put a hole in it and have the risk of water intrusion or rust start.
Thank you guys for your input. I never received the notification on here about your posts which is strange. I played around with my current box and found that putting the larger split bench up and having the sub face forward with the port aimed at the middle of the rear seat sounds the loudest. Firing it at either door even if the port was 8" away would almost kill the sound and only gave vibration from the low notes. I was trying to sync the music on my phone with the music in my truck though so they were slightly off which may have caused that problem so i'm not sure. What did you do with the amp? I saw a few posts where people mounted them to the rear of the cab behind the seat and I want to do that as well if I can fit my amp back there but wasn't sure how everything lined up for bolt holes. I don't want to mess with the seat belt or the anchor bolts behind the seat unless I have to. I didn't modify the rear seats yet to make it so I could pull the seat up and unhook the back and pull that forward to get behind the seats. My plan was to take my DC audio 5.0k amp and hook that up to the back wall of the cab on a sheet of MDF and have my Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 mounted under the smaller rear seat and make a little leg extension for my sub enclosure to fit on the drivers side since it's longer than the hump in the floor. I don't personally trust construction adhesive like I read some did for mounting the sheet to the wall.
i'm not sure how yours works since you have a 2017 but i know all DRL's use a PWM signal to create AC voltage to the headlights so essentially they are turning on and off several times a minute. I know HID's do not like PWM signals or low voltage so i'm not sure how they compensate for that on trucks with led or HID bulbs. If you have halogen bulbs take an oscilloscope to it and you will see the waveform ripple like AC voltage when the DRL is running and if you turn the knob to manual mode or cover up the dash sensor to simulate darkness it will go to a true DC voltage to the bulbs and they will become brighter as a result.
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