I wonder if you can just go under the dash and find the immobilizer connection (BCM under the dash, green connector, pin 2. It is the green/purple wire) and just disconnect it so it kills the truck from starting. I don't think that will prevent you from locking and unlocking the truck but it will stop you from starting the truck due to it not reading the security status. I was playing with that on my silverado and even though I have an aftermarket remote start/alarm installed, if I disconnect one end of the bypass wire it will only allow me to turn on the accessories, I cannot start the truck.
I have an idea floating around in the little bubble that is my head and was wondering if you can go from a switchblade key to a standalone key. My fiance has a 2016 equinox (i know this isn't the right forum for that vehicle but we have those same keys available if we upgrade our fobs) and it has the switchblade style key where the door lock buttons are built into the key when it swings out. I would like to entertain putting in an aftermarket remote start/alarm system she had in her old car but feel it is stupid to carry around two remotes, one for the aftermarket remote start and another for the factory remote start/keyless entry. Is there a way I can disassemble the current switchblade key and extract the proximity security chip out of it along with the cut key and transplant that into the traditional style key like my 14 silverado came with? I could not find anything online about going from switchblade to standard key, only from a standard key to a switchblade.
I always check belt related squeaks with a spray bottle filled with water. Adjust the bottle to a pinpoint spray and shoot it directly on the belt before the belt hits each pulley. If the noise goes away then you are having an alignment problem with your belt on that pulley. If the noise gets louder then your tensioner has failed and is allowing the belt to slack too much and is slipping on the pulley. More than likely it's your tensioner so long as you never touched any of the pulleys or removed and reinstalled any of the belt driven components.
IMO the things I have seen of people complaining about it are those who never flush their coolant out when it gets old like the manual calls for. I don't need to do mine just yet since I had the radiator replaced and that dumps a bunch of coolant out in the process but in another 2 years I am going to disconnect everything and drain the system and flush it out with water then refill with dexcool again.
It wasn't my vehicle but I loved my dads 97 Tahoe. The seats were super soft and comfortable and it had plenty of power under the hood for a 5.7l. My first car was a 98 olds 88 and those seats were nice and it rode like a dream but sadly the previous owner smoked a ton so the car always smelled bad and had a ton of dust that came out of the seats despite my weekly vacuumings and shampoo work on the interior. I mainly love the seats of the old cars since they were so much more comfortable and I love being able to sit in a seat and sink into it haha.
I didn't try a dual alt setup but will eventually ditch the factory alt for at least a 250a mechman alternator but might get their 320a elite series. The only concern I can think of is that the second alt will not be regulated by the PCM so it might trigger a battery light on the dash if your one alt connected to the OEM wiring is commanded to decrease it's voltage output for maintaining your battery and the second alternator has it's own external regulator and it is putting out 14v. Another concern is having both wires not going through the hall effect sensor so that can confuse the PCM with having a huge current draw but it doesn't see the actual draw and will only notice the voltage drop and think the alternator is failing. I was thinking of a dual alt setup where I could split off the harness from the factory alternator so it controls both alts but i'm not sure if that would overload the PCM since it will be controlling 2 alternators and not 1.
I appear to have the original vacuum pump on my engine and so far it's fine. I have tried hard braking situations and the brake is a bit harder to press but nothing where I can't control it. I even just for the hell of it removed the vacuum tube going to the brake booster and it was very hard to push the pedal down but I could still stop the truck with only a small increase in distance. I didn't reprogram the ABS system yet nor did I have the pump replaced yet. I am really considering doing it ahead of time just before the extended warranty coverage for the pump expires on it next year but fear I might cause a problem with it since the factory one is on it and it's been just fine.
If you buy the oil in 1 quart bottles you can get a bendable hose like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DX2MSB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and fit that on your bottle. Unfortunately for me it doesn't fit the new "easy pour" bottles that valvoline just put out and it wouldn't fit the old style ones either, same for mobil-1. I am really keeping my eye out for a funnel like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RTLUPVC/ref=psdc_15708811_t2_B07DX2MSB4 but would really want one where it just has a rubber hose on it so you don't have to fight with trying to clean out the little ribs on the neck if you want to change fluids with the funnel. edit: I tried to see if I could snatch one off another vehicle that had it like my moms Buick but all the other engines I noticed had a single slot where the cap is held in with and our engines have 2 slots that you need to use for holding the cap on.
I stuffed mine under the dash. Looks like shit but there was some room just above where the vent tube is that blows air on your feet. I would recommend an aftermarket unit and not the factory. I didn't like that the factory one wouldn't report back that it successfully locked/unlocked/started unless I used the onstar app and I'm certainly not paying for onstar just for that. My only gripe is my aftermarket unit is a viper 5901 alarm/remote start combo with an idatalink alca bypass module and for whatever reason it likes to crank the truck once, fail to start it up the other 2 times and complain that it failed to start the truck but if I press remote start again it fires right up and works fine. It had a problem trying to program the damn tach signal since it is all through the data bus on the truck and the voltage drops down when the BCM thinks it doesn't need to charge the battery at 14.4v which the aftermarket remote start sees that and as soon as the voltage begins to fall it thinks the engine died and kills the remote start and will attempt to restart the truck. The workaround to this for me was to get the engine to sit at the 12.6v that it drops down to in the right condition and remote start the truck and perform a keyless takeover. Then I would stick the key in the ignition and hit the brake to shut down the remote start and hold in the valet switch on the antenna for a few seconds to learn the tach and it fixed that problem. It's totally doable for installing it yourself with just wire strippers, a few wire taps and bullet connectors as needed, there are not too many wires that need to be connected. I am considering hard wiring the bypass module so it doesn't feed so much data to the aftermarket unit and hope that fixes the problem of my random starting issues I am running into now.
Since it looks like a K2x series and not the new T1 series you have to go into settings and then i'm pretty sure it's under the section for radio and then manage favorites. You can specify how many you want to have showing. There are two ways to get to it. You can swipe left or right to get to the next page of presets or swipe up from the bottom to see all of them at once. Mine has only shown 5 at a time unless I swipe up from the bottom to bring up the whole list. For me personally I never use the radio as all my music is on an external hard drive and I have 2 presets for frequent contacts and the other 3 are radio stations for the rare occasion I want to tune into them. If when you go to the settings menu and then manage favorites, if options 6-10 don't show anything saved to them and you still can't get it to accept a new shortcut then i'd suggest pulling the radio fuse on the passenger side of the dash to reset the radio. It might need a reset.
Glad to hear it has a new number each time that certainly helps a bit. If your bank and credit cards have it, i'd recommend dual factor authentication where it sends you a text or a call before you can sign into the web portal to add security to your accounts.
I run webroot secureanywhere for my computer. Since I work in IT the best protection starts at the one behind the keyboard for knowing if a site is legitimate and on where your card is being used at. I always check gas pumps and anywhere else I am using the card at to check for phishing devices on the readers before I stick my card anywhere near it. For online sites double check the web address and see if anything looks suspicious. When in doubt leave the site. I would go without the antivirus on my computer if it wasn't for me downloading torrents all the time so I use that to double check on my downloads to make sure they are clean and not about to kill my computer but if worst case scenario it does kill my computer I can always reinstall everything from my backups. I personally never liked norton products. I was using trend micro antivirus in the past but have had a better result with webroot for catching things. The antivirus from your ISP is always shit so get rid of it and get something better. Just to ask, when visa canceled your card, did they issue you a brand new credit card number or was it the same number? I know some banks like the one where my Aunt goes through will cancel the card and issue a new one with the same credit card number, the only difference is the security code on the back which isn't that hard to guess that code if you already have the credit card. If Visa is sending out the same account number on your card ask them to make a brand new account number for the credit card. It might ding your credit report as a closed account and a new one being opened up but that's not a big hit and you will recover after a month or 2 on that. Have you considered making a paypal account since most sites accept paypal and you can add your card onto that and pay through paypal which in turn takes the money from your card. One last tip, double check your wifi. If your wifi password is something about you or anything you have change it immediately. One common method of attack is to get into your network and capture your traffic and weed through it to get the information that is important.
I use the winter fluid year round. The only time it gets bad is in the summer when I go on long road trips in the valleys that have a shit load of bugs but the windshield isn't the only thing smeared with dead bodies and blood lol. The bumper especially and the grille/radiator get plastered. I try to get to the carwash to get most of it off and if there is any remaining splatter I just get outside with some paper towels and window cleaner and clean those spots off. I used to use the cheap summer blend stuff and then switch to the winter stuff in the fall but got tired of having to flush the tank out. I would have my fiance hold the washer button down while I have the hose that leads up to the wiper cowling and have it drain out into the container it came in and reconnect the hose and put the winter stuff in. I really don't use that much washer fluid though. I mostly use it in the winter to see through all the salt that is on the window after the plows are out salting the living hell out of the roads.
I cannot comment on the specifics if it would work but it looks like some tessa tape or even really thin window sealing would work. Just apply it to the glass and not the chain linkage for the wire harness and you should be fine. Double check that where that rests on the window does not get in the way of the travel on your window so you don't possibly rip the tape off and get it gummed up or jammed in the track.
I was browsing around online and could not find anything that might accomplish this so I figured maybe I could ask and see if any other members have come up with something. The bottom heated seat pad on my truck is broken so only the back portion will heat and I wanted to see if there was any upgraded pad I could install to make it even hotter than the factory. My fiance's 2015 equinox has heated seats and when those are on high it will toast your butt really well but my silverado just gets warm never really hot. I don't have vented seats only heated in my truck. Looking at GM parts direct it shows a different part number and layout of the heated pad between our vehicles. Is there an upgraded part number for the bottom pad and I might as well ask about the back as well since i'm pulling the seat out to replace the bottom element?
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