Jump to content

kickass audio

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About kickass audio

  • Birthday July 28

Profile Information

  • Name
  • Location
    Buffalo, NY
  • Gender
  • Drives
    2014 Chevrolet Silverado LT

Recent Profile Visitors

2,223 profile views

kickass audio's Achievements


Enthusiast (4/11)



  1. I don't have the same edition silverado as you but my 14 I keep the BFG All-terrains inflated to 45psi cold and after thruway driving it goes up to 49-50psi in the front and stays at 47-48 psi in the rear. My tires are worn perfectly even on the front and rear and across the whole tire. I do rotate my tires from side to side and front to back twice a year though but they still are totally flat for wear.
  2. do you have anything aftermarket for a remote start? Some idiot (me) didn't pay attention to the wire polarity of my rear defroster and when I triggered it to work from the aftermarket remote start it didn't warm my mirrors so I pressed the button on the dash and it shorted the aftermarket remote start and would not let the truck shut off and the horn was blasting non stop until I blew one of the two horns. I ended up having to disconnect the aftermarket remote start and replaced the blown part on it but just last weekend gave up on the aftermarket remote start since it randomly sets off my alarm for no reason. What I would suggest would be to unplug the horn and test power on the wire harness. I am fairly certain the +12v should be live at all times and the ground will ground out when the horn is called to run since GM usually loves to switch the grounds and leave the hot wires on. If it doesn't have continuity on one of the two wires then that would tell me that the BCM that controls the horn and the horn switch in the wheel is fine and your horns itself is probably faulty. Otherwise if the wires are live at all times then you need to find where the short exists, whether a wire was chewed up and is making contact somewhere along the way or something else.
  3. I had a little bit of the free service remaining when I bought mine off a lease and purchased the navigation while I was down south for vacation 2 years ago since my cell phone would work fantastic but had a problem while navigating where the phone would get super hot and stop charging and the battery would drain FAST. It was nice having the directions show on the instrument cluster and have alerts instead of looking over to the windshield where my phone is mounted but it lacks traffic analysis of delays and the stops you can make on the way for gas, food, etc. I just replaced my XM antenna on the roof since it had water damage inside and my compass kept coming on and off as it runs through the sharkfin and will never buy onstar again. I am just mounting my phone to the windshield and will put the defroster on to put some cold air on it during the summer when the sun is beating on my phone to keep it cool and fully charged. I also have an aftermarket remote start installed that is a bit of an annoying pain the ass where it fails to start intermittently and sometimes sets off the alarm when called to start but I can run the starter for a hour straight (never run it more than 15 minutes if it's super cold and my truck is frozen in ice but still nice to not have to run back out and restart the timer if you wanted to) but it's a longer range (1 mile line of sight) and is a 2 way remote so I know it reached the truck.
  4. I flushed mine out at I believe 36-38k and plan to do so again next year. I always burp the bleeders now every year just to keep them freed up so it doesn't snap off on the caliper like I have had in the past. I honestly swear my brakes are way better for stopping power after I flushed them out 2 years ago. They never were a problem but after doing that and changing the pads to napa's high end pads I have way better braking power than I ever had. I'm not sure if you just cracked the bleeders and let them gravity feed but when I flushed mine, I used my mityvac pump and bleeder rubber fittings to fit on the bleeder and started with the rear passenger caliper then went to the drivers rear, passenger front and drivers front in that order. I kept an eye on the reservoir to make sure it never went empty and used prestone brake fluid. I did go on a gravel road after bleeding them to force the ABS to kick in but that was only twice that I did that, it didn't seem to help any aside from the bleeding/flushing but I wanted to do that just to be safe.
  5. One of my friends Steve Meade has it working as a bypass. You will just need to jumper the OEM 2 pin connector at the alternator and get an external regulator for the alternator. You can adjust the voltage manually with the external regulator to your liking. Since you are in Canada i'm not sure if there are any alternator guys up there but Mechman alternators is where I bought my last 3 alternators from and they sell an external regulator: https://www.mechman.com/accessories/voltage-control-modules/adjustable-external-regulator-w-2-pin-alt-harness/ that you can hook up and use to fine tune your voltage to stay stable. My voltage was climbing up really high at first start and anything above 15v would make the HVAC shut down and come back on several times until after about a solid minute of running from startup it would drop the voltage down to 14.7 and keep the HVAC running fine. Prior to today I did have my OEM battery as well as an aftermarket battery under the hood and I only ran one of the 1/0 gauge ground cables to the OEM battery from the alternator and had it go through the hall effect sensor. I had the other 1/0 gauge ground cable go from the alternator to the second battery under the hood and since the factory hall effect sensor is so small I couldn't jam that through the sensor if I tried. I only took my truck out for a test ride today and my voltage didn't seem that high to shut off the HVAC so time will tell. If it keeps that crap up I am definitely getting an external regulator and jumping the OEM 2 pin connector out to remove the check battery light on the dash. edit: my voltage was perfectly fine with 2 batteries until I swapped out the alternator from the stock alt to a 370A alternator. once I did that then my voltage climbed a ton and would fluctuate even with no music on and no change in load other than having the truck just sit at idle. If I rev up the engine the fluctuating voltage would be fine. here is the link on the forum from what I mentioned to just short the alternator connector: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/210401-2015-cadillac-escalade-sound-system-install-the-box-is-started-6-12-subs-clear-acrylic-on-the-menu-update-page-10/?do=findComment&comment=3250545
  6. I had the check trailer wiring message come up on my DIC and I only once had a trailer connected to the 7 way connector on my truck and twice on the 4 pin connector. I noticed that the message just came up at random weeks after I last had a trailer on my 7 way connector. I did previously squeeze diaelectric grease in both connections to help prevent the problem of having any moisture get on the prongs and corrode them away. I looked at the connector and noticed that the diaelectric grease I put in the connector was bridged between pins. What I did to stop my error was to use a tiny plastic zip-tie and remove the jumper of the diaelectric grease that was bridging the gap between the prongs on the connector in the bumper and my message went away immediately. Again, my problem was random in that it came up 4 times with each restart of my truck with no trailer connected for over a month on my truck but it's worth mentioning to maybe help give another place to look at the problem.
  7. A buddy of mine had fixed the issue by bypassing the OEM control wire on the alternator and using an external voltage regulator for the alternator. He shorted out the two pins on the OEM alternator harness which will stop the battery light from the dash lighting up and he also used a Mechman adjustable voltage regulator to control the charge voltage himself. What I don't know is if the voltage reading on the dash will be accurate or if it just relays what the PCM wants to get out of the alternator when you short the control wires on the alternator. This is the external regulator he used: https://www.mechman.com/accessories/voltage-control-modules/adjustable-external-regulator-w-2-pin-alt-harness/
  8. i have only done that once so far in my almost 30 years on the earth. I did it in my 14 Silverado too. It was a completely clear day out but was windy and I was cleaning the interior out and stopped to eat dinner and had the windows totally down in the front doors and it soaked the hell out of the pleather on the doors and the controls. I was worried more about the switches since those are notorious to not appreciate getting wet but thankfully they are alright.
  9. Is that clip from the rubber dust seal area? If so it is there to help hold the rubber dust seal on and with it missing it will sling grease out and eventually fail the u-joint. If it's just the c-clip that holds in the u-joint caps (I don't think it is but it's possible since i'm not sure if the caps that are bolted on have inner locking holding clips and the ones in the ear of the driveshaft/yoke are as Cam mentioned and are held in with nylon that needs to be melted to get them pressed out) then you will be fine so long as the bolts holding the ears on are tight.
  10. 0 water leaks and the voice button and onstar button on the mirror respond when I press them and the red light flashes when I try onstar but it goes back to being out when the call fails to establish.
  11. that is why I mentioned on replacing the antenna but my light doesn't even show red, it's just totally out and I have no onstar account listed on the mychevrolet site and my XM radio doesn't show either any longer on there.
  12. I have an odd question. I noticed for the past few months that my OnStar light on the mirror is not lit up at all. It will flash red when I press the onstar button but it never connects to a representative. I have not paid for onstar in almost 2 years but even when I canceled onstar in the past the light would still show up as red for not having an active service plan enabled. I also noticed that my XM radio does not play anything on channel 1 or 100 which should play their advertisements for getting XM. I know I either have a bad roof antenna as occasionally my compass on the dash will just disappear and randomly come back. I have been considering replacing my roof antenna but I don't plan to really have onstar nor will I pay for XM but I am curious if this has happened to others for not having active subscriptions for a long period of time. When I log into mychevrolet it does not give me an option to pick an onstar plan to enable it on my truck again nor does it show my XM radio ID to pay for that either. I have considered upgrading the HMI to have android auto support as when I use my phone for navigation and it is on the windshield it will get so hot for extended periods of time that it will stop charging the phone until I cool the phone down by blowing cold air out of the defrost vent on the phone and was thinking if I keep my phone plugged in the armrest it would help avoid the problem I am experiencing. There are so many electrical issues my truck has that are annoying. My aftermarket alternator will spike the voltage up to 15v when cold and first started and when that happens it will shut off my HVAC for a few seconds until the voltage gets below 14.8v. I am going to bypass the OEM alternator charging circuit for that issue. I also have an aftermarket remote start installed and it occasionally triggers the OEM alarm and when it doesn't do that, it will fail to start the truck at random as well. My radio loves to stop playing music from the arm rest USB plugs until i unplug and plug the usb drive and also reboots at random.
  13. those connections have a small red locking tab and it looks like it is on the lower left corner of your picture. pull that back and push the white connector forward in the picture as it looks to be and it will swing over and once you push it enough you will be able to get the connector loose and pull it off. Getting it back on you need to keep that white swivel lock fully open and push the connector in fully and then swing the white part over to begin locking it in and close it up together.
  14. I went from the good for a year wranglers that came with my truck to BFG All-terrains. I love the traction but the fuel economy greatly suffered and it rides like a 2500 now but i'm okay with that. I didn't buy my truck for fuel economy or a SUV ride style for comfort. I would much rather have a tire that gives me a ton more traction than the highway tires can offer and I am fully satisfied with my BFG's.
  15. how does your radio sound? I am pretty sure that the T1's are the same as the K2 in the sense that the chimes all play from the left front dashboard speaker. Can you hear music playing from that speaker? If so then it might be an issue where the radio has a programming glitch and maybe either unplugging the battery for awhile or whatever fuse powers the radio/amp would help correct it. If you have no audio from that part of the speakers then it could be a broken speaker or wiring issue or even the amp. Does your truck have the bose radio or just the lower level radio?
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.