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kickass audio

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About kickass audio

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  • Birthday July 28

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  1. I didn't try a dual alt setup but will eventually ditch the factory alt for at least a 250a mechman alternator but might get their 320a elite series. The only concern I can think of is that the second alt will not be regulated by the PCM so it might trigger a battery light on the dash if your one alt connected to the OEM wiring is commanded to decrease it's voltage output for maintaining your battery and the second alternator has it's own external regulator and it is putting out 14v. Another concern is having both wires not going through the hall effect sensor so that can confuse the PCM with having a huge current draw but it doesn't see the actual draw and will only notice the voltage drop and think the alternator is failing. I was thinking of a dual alt setup where I could split off the harness from the factory alternator so it controls both alts but i'm not sure if that would overload the PCM since it will be controlling 2 alternators and not 1.
  2. I appear to have the original vacuum pump on my engine and so far it's fine. I have tried hard braking situations and the brake is a bit harder to press but nothing where I can't control it. I even just for the hell of it removed the vacuum tube going to the brake booster and it was very hard to push the pedal down but I could still stop the truck with only a small increase in distance. I didn't reprogram the ABS system yet nor did I have the pump replaced yet. I am really considering doing it ahead of time just before the extended warranty coverage for the pump expires on it next year but fear I might cause a problem with it since the factory one is on it and it's been just fine.
  3. If you buy the oil in 1 quart bottles you can get a bendable hose like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DX2MSB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and fit that on your bottle. Unfortunately for me it doesn't fit the new "easy pour" bottles that valvoline just put out and it wouldn't fit the old style ones either, same for mobil-1. I am really keeping my eye out for a funnel like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RTLUPVC/ref=psdc_15708811_t2_B07DX2MSB4 but would really want one where it just has a rubber hose on it so you don't have to fight with trying to clean out the little ribs on the neck if you want to change fluids with the funnel. edit: I tried to see if I could snatch one off another vehicle that had it like my moms Buick but all the other engines I noticed had a single slot where the cap is held in with and our engines have 2 slots that you need to use for holding the cap on.
  4. I stuffed mine under the dash. Looks like shit but there was some room just above where the vent tube is that blows air on your feet. I would recommend an aftermarket unit and not the factory. I didn't like that the factory one wouldn't report back that it successfully locked/unlocked/started unless I used the onstar app and I'm certainly not paying for onstar just for that. My only gripe is my aftermarket unit is a viper 5901 alarm/remote start combo with an idatalink alca bypass module and for whatever reason it likes to crank the truck once, fail to start it up the other 2 times and complain that it failed to start the truck but if I press remote start again it fires right up and works fine. It had a problem trying to program the damn tach signal since it is all through the data bus on the truck and the voltage drops down when the BCM thinks it doesn't need to charge the battery at 14.4v which the aftermarket remote start sees that and as soon as the voltage begins to fall it thinks the engine died and kills the remote start and will attempt to restart the truck. The workaround to this for me was to get the engine to sit at the 12.6v that it drops down to in the right condition and remote start the truck and perform a keyless takeover. Then I would stick the key in the ignition and hit the brake to shut down the remote start and hold in the valet switch on the antenna for a few seconds to learn the tach and it fixed that problem. It's totally doable for installing it yourself with just wire strippers, a few wire taps and bullet connectors as needed, there are not too many wires that need to be connected. I am considering hard wiring the bypass module so it doesn't feed so much data to the aftermarket unit and hope that fixes the problem of my random starting issues I am running into now.
  5. Since it looks like a K2x series and not the new T1 series you have to go into settings and then i'm pretty sure it's under the section for radio and then manage favorites. You can specify how many you want to have showing. There are two ways to get to it. You can swipe left or right to get to the next page of presets or swipe up from the bottom to see all of them at once. Mine has only shown 5 at a time unless I swipe up from the bottom to bring up the whole list. For me personally I never use the radio as all my music is on an external hard drive and I have 2 presets for frequent contacts and the other 3 are radio stations for the rare occasion I want to tune into them. If when you go to the settings menu and then manage favorites, if options 6-10 don't show anything saved to them and you still can't get it to accept a new shortcut then i'd suggest pulling the radio fuse on the passenger side of the dash to reset the radio. It might need a reset.
  6. Glad to hear it has a new number each time that certainly helps a bit. If your bank and credit cards have it, i'd recommend dual factor authentication where it sends you a text or a call before you can sign into the web portal to add security to your accounts.
  7. I run webroot secureanywhere for my computer. Since I work in IT the best protection starts at the one behind the keyboard for knowing if a site is legitimate and on where your card is being used at. I always check gas pumps and anywhere else I am using the card at to check for phishing devices on the readers before I stick my card anywhere near it. For online sites double check the web address and see if anything looks suspicious. When in doubt leave the site. I would go without the antivirus on my computer if it wasn't for me downloading torrents all the time so I use that to double check on my downloads to make sure they are clean and not about to kill my computer but if worst case scenario it does kill my computer I can always reinstall everything from my backups. I personally never liked norton products. I was using trend micro antivirus in the past but have had a better result with webroot for catching things. The antivirus from your ISP is always shit so get rid of it and get something better. Just to ask, when visa canceled your card, did they issue you a brand new credit card number or was it the same number? I know some banks like the one where my Aunt goes through will cancel the card and issue a new one with the same credit card number, the only difference is the security code on the back which isn't that hard to guess that code if you already have the credit card. If Visa is sending out the same account number on your card ask them to make a brand new account number for the credit card. It might ding your credit report as a closed account and a new one being opened up but that's not a big hit and you will recover after a month or 2 on that. Have you considered making a paypal account since most sites accept paypal and you can add your card onto that and pay through paypal which in turn takes the money from your card. One last tip, double check your wifi. If your wifi password is something about you or anything you have change it immediately. One common method of attack is to get into your network and capture your traffic and weed through it to get the information that is important.
  8. I use the winter fluid year round. The only time it gets bad is in the summer when I go on long road trips in the valleys that have a shit load of bugs but the windshield isn't the only thing smeared with dead bodies and blood lol. The bumper especially and the grille/radiator get plastered. I try to get to the carwash to get most of it off and if there is any remaining splatter I just get outside with some paper towels and window cleaner and clean those spots off. I used to use the cheap summer blend stuff and then switch to the winter stuff in the fall but got tired of having to flush the tank out. I would have my fiance hold the washer button down while I have the hose that leads up to the wiper cowling and have it drain out into the container it came in and reconnect the hose and put the winter stuff in. I really don't use that much washer fluid though. I mostly use it in the winter to see through all the salt that is on the window after the plows are out salting the living hell out of the roads.
  9. I cannot comment on the specifics if it would work but it looks like some tessa tape or even really thin window sealing would work. Just apply it to the glass and not the chain linkage for the wire harness and you should be fine. Double check that where that rests on the window does not get in the way of the travel on your window so you don't possibly rip the tape off and get it gummed up or jammed in the track.
  10. I was browsing around online and could not find anything that might accomplish this so I figured maybe I could ask and see if any other members have come up with something. The bottom heated seat pad on my truck is broken so only the back portion will heat and I wanted to see if there was any upgraded pad I could install to make it even hotter than the factory. My fiance's 2015 equinox has heated seats and when those are on high it will toast your butt really well but my silverado just gets warm never really hot. I don't have vented seats only heated in my truck. Looking at GM parts direct it shows a different part number and layout of the heated pad between our vehicles. Is there an upgraded part number for the bottom pad and I might as well ask about the back as well since i'm pulling the seat out to replace the bottom element?
  11. That's what I always recommend as well. Unless it's something very small for current I always recommend a relay just for the added safety. The only wire that needs to be a little bit beefier if you plan to draw a lot of power is the lead that connects to the positive (or ground depending how you are using the relay) on pin 30 of the relay.
  12. I wouldn't tap into that as i'm not sure what that wire controls. You will find that there will be quite a few of the same colored wires on the different connections at the BCM.
  13. I just pulled up the wiring schematic for idatalink (the bypass module that I use for aftermarket remote start) and it shows that your ignition wire is under the dash on the BCM. It is a green colored connection and the wire is colored purple with a black stripe. There is also an accessory wire in that same connection that is colored purple with a yellow stripe. I would strongly recommend tapping into that location and verify a solid +12v signal before you proceed to hook up to it.
  14. It sounds like your front drivers side bearing is going out but the trick mentioned above of if the noise gets louder in one direction (say turning left) then your right bearing is shot can be misleading. I misdiagnosed a bearing on my old truck and it would get louder when I turned right so I figured it was my left bearing. I replaced it and it wasn't fixed so it ended up being the right bearing that was shot. The best way I have found so far to test a bearing is jack up the truck and let the wheel hang. Put your hand on your spring and grab it while turning your wheel. If you feel vibration or grinding then you have found the bearing that is going out. Check the opposite side just to be sure.
  15. I wouldn't worry about it. The only thing is that you would heat up a bit faster if you keep the fan off until the engine warms up a bit and then turned the fan on so it would have hot air to blow around and not start out by blowing cold air and then eventually heat up. Older vehicles had it so when you put a huge load on the electrical like having your blower at full speed it would put a huge demand on your alternator and old engines would start the alternator immediately as the engine was on. Newer engines have the alternator start up a few seconds after you get it running so it doesn't put a huge strain on the engine as it just started up and is beginning to run. One recommendation for you is to hookup your rear defroster (if you have it) and heated mirrors (also if you have them) to your defrost wire on the remote start. Mine will automatically come on from remote start if it's 40 degrees or cooler out or if I command them to turn on from my remote but it is super helpful if you are in a cold place where your mirrors and back window ice over. I have a cap on the back so I don't need the rear window to be warm but the mirrors are helpful as they defog and defrost for me before I get out to brush off the snow or jump in lately when it gets cold at night.
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