How accurate is your gauge? Does it have a good scale where you can see small differences like a half pound of air? I found on my 2014 that the TPMS reading is 100% accurate but when it gets a little off is if there is around a half pound difference between a full reading. Like for example, if the tire is actually read as 44.5 or less, I have seen the reading show as 43 but then quickly jump back to 44 when I start to move. I also had it show as 45 when it is really 44.5. It's close enough for me to keep an eye on while driving and hauling things but it's no big deal for me to watch them on my own.
on my 14 I did the same procedure as your old truck with pulling the cooler line on the radiator. People said the thermostat on the newer transmissions would stop this method from working but it worked flawlessly for me. I stopped the engine with an assistant when I noticed the flow was starting to show tiny air bubbles, I never let it get to the point of spitting out a ton of air. Cavitation is a bad thing when fluids are compressed with air in them.
I wonder just how that works. I have disconnected my battery a few times to work on the addition of a second battery under the hood as well as upgrading the alternator to a 370A alt, if I leave the window in the full up position and pull the battery, as soon as I reconnect the battery after a few minutes it will demand I put the drivers window down and then back up upon the first time turning the ignition on. The last time I disconnected the battery for over 4 hours and had placed both front windows down just incase I had problems and couldn't reconnect the battery so I could get in and when I finally connected the batteries back up it never needed a recalibration. I would recommend trying to force the window all the way up, disconnect your battery for 3 or more minutes and reconnect it. When you turn your key on (no need to start the engine if you don't want to) you should receive a prompt on the instrument cluster asking you to put the window down and then back up. Once you do that the message will disappear on it's own and you should have a calibrated window motor. Have you checked and tried to clean the window jamb to ensure it isn't getting difficult for it to push the window up? Anything like window vents installed that could be causing a bit of binding?
kickass audio replied to Grumpy Bear's topic in Garage & Home, Snow Plowing, Landscaping, & Lawn CareI've thought of getting the pre-mixed 2 stroke containers but was never sure how the container is with sitting in a garage that is neither heated or cooled. I just buy 93 octane for all my small engines and have a old school tank that is a 1 gallon container and I use that to mix in 2 stroke oil for my 50:1 mix. When I finish using my tools like the chainsaw that is every once in a great while I dump out the bar&chain oil and 2 stroke fuel and run the chainsaw until it starts to stall out, then I play around with the choke and primer to suck every last ounce of fuel out of the carb and once I can't get it to run anymore I put it away in the garage. For my other tools like the lawnmower, leaf blower and string trimmer I do the same procedure but at the end of the season I am using it since it usually gets used at least once a week which is fine. A little side tip for you, when you are not going to use your power tools for a long time slowly pull your starter rope and when you feel it gets hard to pull the rope out, stop pulling the rope and hold it in position for a few seconds. This will place your piston at top dead center and if you can fully close the choke on your carb. Keeping the piston at the top helps to stop rusting of the cylinder wall from the moisture in the air. You can also give a quick shot of winterizing fluid in the cylinder bore after you remove the spark plug if you so desire but I have found just putting the piston at TDC has never harmed any of my tools.
I have the actual sheet boxed up with the OEM alternator so I can't get to it easily. The instructions were to remove the factory ground cable (both of them) and use a single ground of 1/0 gauge to the case of the alternator and have it fed through the load sensor next to the battery and then connect to the negative battery terminal. The positive just gets connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery.
it isn't too much when you have an amplifier drawing at peak 250A of current on it's own.
I figured I would post this on here if anyone has installed a larger high output alternator on their 2014+ silverado/sierra. I noticed that after switching from the factory alternator to a 370A mechman alternator that my voltage fluctuates between 15.2v to 14v. This fluctuation in voltage occurs only after the truck runs longer than 1 minute and will continue until the truck is shut down and does not change if I have the lights turned on or am in tow/haul mode. I followed the instructions on wiring through the factory hall effect sensor and tested voltage drop on the wires and have 0.0v of voltage drop on all power and grounds. The only thing I can possibly think of is that since the upgraded alternator is far higher in output than the factory unit that it is able to charge the truck faster and as a result the truck is regulating the voltage to bounce up and down as fast as it is now. Has anyone ran into this problem with an upgraded alternator? At the current moment I do not have anything other than the factory electronics installed. I do have a second battery under the hood and there is 0 gauge running between the alternator and 2 batteries. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I do not feel the alternator is bad at all since the areas where I noticed voltage drop on the factory alternator are gone now and the voltage drop was present when switching 4 wheel drive modes or if I was sitting at idle and had the turn signal on, it would bounce up and down like this in those scenarios.
Since I wasted $160 in belts today as nobody had posted this anywhere online, I figured I would hopefully stop someone from blowing money and help them get something that fits. I just replaced the factory alternator on my 2014 silverado 1500 today with a 370A mechman elite alternator. Since that alternator is high output it has a smaller pulley installed than the factory pulley. The OE alternator has a 2.5" pulley and the new Mechman alternator has a 2" pulley (that's their standard size for nearly all alternators). With the .5" difference in size you must get a smaller drive belt for the alternator, water pump and harmonic balancer or you will make the belt slip. In my case, the 72" factory length belt was right at the outermost limit of the tensioner so it definitely wouldn't work out. I found that you will need to get a 71-1/4" outer circumference belt for the engine. In my case, NAPA didn't have the belt length in a 5 rib belt combination, they only had it in a 7 rib belt. I just used a utility knife to cut off 2 of the ribs and it works fine (plenty of other people I know do this and it's totally fine). The part number for this belt is through Gates as their fleet runner line under 080708HD, napa has it listed on their inventory as NBH 25-080708HD. I hope this helps save someone else the hassle of cutting belts just to find they are too short. I will warn you, for this belt when it still had the 2 extra ribs on them, it wouldn't fit due to the extra deflection of the belt hanging off the lips on the pulleys, that made me worry as my two other belts were the same and even when I trimmed them it wouldn't fit. Another word of caution, since you are getting an alternator with a half inch smaller pulley you will spin the alternator faster than the OE alt. Because of this I would not recommend you rev the engine up higher than 4700RPM. Going faster than that will over rev the alternator and can make it die (I did this in the past on my 2004 Envoy when I would floor it to get up to speed on the thruway and it would spin up really fast). The factory pulley size of 2.5" can handle you revving the engine up to 6000 RPM before risk of blowing up the alternator. Also you can NOT take the pulley from the OE alternator and stick it on the mechman alternator. The factory alt uses a centrifugal pulley that has grease inside (hence the black cap on the face of the pulley), I tried to remove that cap thinking it was a dust cover for the nut but it popped a bit of grease out in my face when I pried it off.
I think it will still set a service airbag code since it can't read the status of the airbags in the seat for curtain bags. You could remove the seat and with it totally disconnected (I also recommend unplugging the wires going to the airbags themselves too so you don't run the risk of blowing them up and hurting yourself) but put the removed seat down and measure the resistance of the pressure switch at the bottom front of the seat. Next, have someone sit in the seat that is heavy enough to trigger the pressure switch to engage and see what that reading is. As long as you have a difference in your reading you will just need to use the resistance of your first reading when the seat is unoccupied and your truck may think the seat is empty and keep the airbag off. Now that is not to say it will keep the airbags from deploying but still run a self test every ignition cycle to look for the seat airbag and if it fails to find the airbag module it would set the airbag light and code in memory.
I don't have a 2020 but I just soak the splatter in soapy water or use window cleaner. Like with bird droppings, keep it wet when you wipe it and you won't scratch the paint or anything. If anything is damaged it will be for the massive bugs that have a tough exoskeleton and it leaves a little dimple on the plastic painted parts. A pressure washer is fine just don't use the pencil shaped pattern, always use a fan spray on it so you don't concentrate the pressure on one tiny spot and you will be safe.
I just replaced my front brakes since the rotors had a good lip on the outside edge of the inner side of the rotor. The pads were less than a quarter of life left and I knew the dealer would fail my inspection for it, hell they put my rears as having less than half their life on them when I just replaced the pads only a year ago, there is no way that burned through that fast. Anyway, I went with these rotors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IU5HYJQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and these pads https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6IWZW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the stopping power is a whole hell of a lot different now. It stopped fine before but my brakes are so much more responsive now and I have never had that experience in the past with any brake service I have performed. I had to replace one of the rubber slide pin boots as it had a tiny hole in it and let water get in and rust the pin a bit but I just put the pin on the wire wheel and it is brand new again and the bore was perfect. I also finally bought a brake caliper file https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XMRE040/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and use it to clean all of the surface rust chunks off of the mounting tabs where the pads sit in the bracket and greased up both sides with permatex ceramic lubricant.
yes, it is the OEM hitch setup that can't handle as much weight as you normally can with a class 4 hitch that has the receiver just under the bumper. You will need to cut out the plastic step cover in the middle of your bumper where the license plate is and bolt the size hitch ball your trailer has installed. Those hooks on the bottom are for your chains to hook onto.
Grab all of the pulleys on the drive belt system (engine off of course and not warm so you don't risk the fans coming on and catching your arms) and try to wiggle the pulleys up and down as well as side to side. Are they not moving around or wobbling? If so that's good. Next try to spin the pulley by hand and see how it feels in your hands, does it move smoothly or does it have times where it binds up or jumps in rotation? That would indicate a bad bearing. Does the noise get better or worse when your AC clutch kicks in and out? One final thought, check your tensioner to make sure that it doesn't have a loose pulley as well as where the single bolt goes through the tensioner to the block that it doesn't wobble around. The area that houses the spring has a rubber damper in it that stops rattling when the tensioner is working to take up slack in the belt but that shouldn't have failed for your age of the truck. I know for me my drive belt loves to squeak after we get a cold night that warms up in the morning or if it rains the night before I start it up. It will continue squeaking until I get in and hit the throttle to drive and it dries the belt off. I have never experienced a tapping noise from a belt before.
I cannot offer assistance in regards to where that drain tube runs through the cab to get outside in the fender but here is something to try. If you can get someone to help you out, disconnect the tube connection that is in the A pillar and put that piece of tube in a bucket. Have someone dump the water in the channel of the sunroof and see if any water makes it to the floor board. If it doesn't then you definitely have a problem with where the hose goes from the connector in the pillar to the outside, maybe the tube leading outside has a small tear in it or was pulled inside some to make it leak.
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