Ball joints are easy to check. Just jack up the truck from under each lower control arm enough to get the tire barely off the ground and then get under the tire with a pry bar and see if you hear clunking or see movement in the ball joints. Grab your cv axle to make sure they aren't toast from your lift if you have 4x4. I had an issue on the rear of my truck where I was driving around for 3 months after taking it in to the dealer for warranty work on my axle seal. For some reason the dealer removed the brakes on the passenger rear and my drivers rear was the culprit but anyway the passenger rear had 1 of the 2 bolts holding the brake caliper mounting bracket to the hub so it was banging around on the backing plate and I only heard it bang when hitting bumps and when I finally took off the wheel it would clunk when I barely tap the brake pedal.
I despise the radio. Any time I make a quick stop and shut the truck off and get back in it less than 5-10 minutes later, the radio fails to read my USB hard drive in the jump seat and I either have to switch over to radio and wait 2 minutes and switch back to media or randomly unplug the drive, wait a second and plug it back in to make it work again. It also loves to randomly reboot itself while the radio is working just fine. It's also annoying how fast the passenger seatbelt alert kicks on. My girlfriend will just get in and put her belt on and if she doesn't do it within seconds it will start to chime about her not being buckled but I can leave my belt off and it won't yell until I get up to like 20 mph. The constant nagging messages on the DIC about your phone being connected. I also wish the lower glovebox compartment also locked and not just the upper glovebox. IDK why anyone would value their actual gloves that much to lock the tiny upper compartment and not want the larger lower compartment to lock as well. I can only lock the jump seat and upper glovebox on mine.
Just to double check the door sensors in the latch, have the truck in run mode for the ignition or start it up if you wish. Then open up all 4 doors one at a time. It will alert you on the cluster what door is opened up. Make sure they all show as being opened and that the alert clears off after it is shut. If that is the case then your door latch sensor is operating as normal. Do you have any aftermarket items like a remote start installed? Are the inside lights on when you are driving down the road or does this only happen in park and when it is shut down?
Mine was really tight from the factory and just recently the little wire that spirals up the antenna came undone so I just unwrapped it and cut it off. I think there was some threadlocker on the antenna base. Try giving it a few good hits with a small hammer to crack it loose and then wrench it off. You will definitely end up taking paint off the hex head at the base.
You definitely have steel as you discovered. The aluminium ones won't get that brown color from oxidation. Aluminum turns white and crusty when oxidized. I also am pretty sure the aluminium ones are a lot thinner than the steel ones. The biggest thing to look at is the color. That's a dead giveaway between the two.
kickass audio replied to Gorehamj's topic in The NewsroomI wouldn't doubt they do that. I still will stick with my GM trucks. Just putting out my 2 cents for what it's worth lol. Another cool idea but i'm not sure if it would stick is if the bed rails had stake pockets that could be pulled up and lock in place so you could use it as a tie down instead of having to tie to the hooks in the bed corner or the ones at the very top of the bed rail. If you had a bed full of crap it could be a little bit of a challenge to get to the hook if you didn't think ahead and put your strap on the hook before loading everything in. Still all just ideas but more for lazy people out there who can't think ahead lol.
kickass audio replied to Gorehamj's topic in The NewsroomI think the GMC multipro tailgate is better but to a certain extent. You can only fold up the flap if the gate is down to keep a few sheets of lumber or drywall in the bed. What I would really think would make a great tailgate is if it could be like an old station wagon. You can either drop it down like a typical pickup tailgate or swing the entire tailgate open like a door. There are quite a few times I just need an extra foot of reach to grab some bags and stuff that went forward into the bed and I just end up climbing in the bed which is no problem for me but if I had a tailgate that swung out I could easily get to it.
You must have a really small garage then. For me being in the north I never plan to park in the garage. For one it would be nice so I don't have to brush off the snow but at the same time I would be getting in a cold truck that I could not run for a few minutes to warm up the coolant so I have some heat. Also garage queens are pointless up here since you drive in all the salt that destroys your vehicles and you still have to brush your car off when you are out somewhere and park like going shopping. I still like the price of my Silverado (26k when I bought it almost 2 years ago used from a lease) and the versatility of it. Leer and Are caps are the best ones out there. I did not buy the cap myself, it just came with the truck along with floor mats, a chrome stick on accent for the tailgate handle, running boards and a spray in bed liner.
I vote for the silverado/sierra. I had a smaller SUV (GMC Envoy) prior to my silverado and it worked alright until I bought a house. I could barely fit a sheet of drywall, 2x4's and tons of other items in the back of my Envoy so I decided it was time to get rid of it. Plus the frame had rust holes on it and other lines were starting to rust and I didn't want to deal with the expense to repair the frame every year and to replace the lines. Going from a SUV to a truck is a difference. One nice thing with a SUV is that it's very hard to get water in the back when you are hauling stuff. I have a truck cap on my silverado and it is one of the shitty ranch caps. It leaks water and snow in the bed right towards the rear and if it rains really hard it will leak water in the side windows if the wind is forcing the rain from the sides. The locks also suck ass on the cap and I have to oil them and beat on them with a hammer to get the lock to work. In the summer the locks work fine but in the cold forget about locking the damn thing up. Since I do have a pickup though that has the high and low spots in the bed I could keep my clothes and other items like that dry in the bed by putting down a sheet of plywood or something since the water that does make it's way in (it isn't much but still something) will just stay in the low areas of the bed channels and drain out. I also prefer to keep the items I want dry to the very far end of the bed near the cab. Having a truck is nice since you don't have to worry about trashing your interior when you get lumber, drywall or anything else that can scratch up the interior or make it a dusty mess. I just get a broom or if needed hose down the bed and it's good as new again. Double check your garage size for the silverado. My garage is a 2.5 car garage and I barely fit in there for height with the BFG KO2's on there now and my truck cap. The cap at the very back end only gives me half an inch of clearance. The length since I have a double cab with a 6.5' bed barely fits but I do have a workbench in the back of the garage that was a lot bigger but I knocked it down in size so I could pull my truck in and work on it in the garage if needed. I never park it in the garage unless I am working on it though and it's crappy outside. My next project is to get a lift in the garage so I can hoist up the cap if I ever need to haul really large items I cannot lay on their side so I can remove the cap as needed. If you do get a silverado/sierra with a crew cab/short bed configuration you will be able to get a 6.5' bed length with the tailgate down. I have the standard bed so I can get 8' of length with the tailgate down. Haven't had a need arise for that but just putting it out there for you.
I'm putting money on it being so cold that the gap had increased despite being fully tight and with the oil being really cold it does increase your pressure a little until it gets warm so you probably lost a few drops from that. I wouldn't be too worried but I would definitely do like you said and let it thaw out and make sure you aren't leaking anywhere above the filter. If it goes back to staying dry when it gets warmer I would just write it off and let it be.
I wonder if the g80 engagement may be caused from metal shavings getting caught up in the pawl that engages/disengages the locker. At high speed the pawl is defeated so you won't blow up the diff by gunning the engine and having the rear end lock up under high speed. From my experience I mainly get the locker to engage if I rev the engine up to around 1200 rpm and then you feel the back end lock up and hear that loud bang when it kicks in. I wouldn't say the g80 is ever a replacement for 4 wheel drive. If you have quite a bit of weight in the bed then it will help a lot more than an empty bed with just relying on the g80. I haven't found a need to use 4 wheel drive since I replaced my tires with ko2's. I still get a tiny bit of wheel spin in the rear end but it isn't even as close to the spin and total loss of traction from the OEM tires. In 4 wheel drive I could not get the truck to break traction one bit. I would recommend taking the back end up off the ground and spin one tire by hand and then once you get it going take the tire and immediately spin it back the other direction. It should get the other wheel to immediately stop and you will hear the clunk when the locker opens up and engages. If you don't get it to lock try spinning the wheel faster by hand and then stop it and turn it the opposite direction.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 125 Members, 1 Anonymous, 898 Guests (See full list)
- Ben Lawson
- 14 Silvy
- Brad Martinson
- f8l vnm
- H-town Silver Bullet
- Brian Neal
- Rolling Thunder
- Nick z71
- Pat Slat
- Turd Ferguson
- Maize & Blue
- C. Smith