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kickass audio

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About kickass audio

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  • Birthday July 28

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  1. That's what I always recommend as well. Unless it's something very small for current I always recommend a relay just for the added safety. The only wire that needs to be a little bit beefier if you plan to draw a lot of power is the lead that connects to the positive (or ground depending how you are using the relay) on pin 30 of the relay.
  2. I wouldn't tap into that as i'm not sure what that wire controls. You will find that there will be quite a few of the same colored wires on the different connections at the BCM.
  3. I just pulled up the wiring schematic for idatalink (the bypass module that I use for aftermarket remote start) and it shows that your ignition wire is under the dash on the BCM. It is a green colored connection and the wire is colored purple with a black stripe. There is also an accessory wire in that same connection that is colored purple with a yellow stripe. I would strongly recommend tapping into that location and verify a solid +12v signal before you proceed to hook up to it.
  4. It sounds like your front drivers side bearing is going out but the trick mentioned above of if the noise gets louder in one direction (say turning left) then your right bearing is shot can be misleading. I misdiagnosed a bearing on my old truck and it would get louder when I turned right so I figured it was my left bearing. I replaced it and it wasn't fixed so it ended up being the right bearing that was shot. The best way I have found so far to test a bearing is jack up the truck and let the wheel hang. Put your hand on your spring and grab it while turning your wheel. If you feel vibration or grinding then you have found the bearing that is going out. Check the opposite side just to be sure.
  5. I wouldn't worry about it. The only thing is that you would heat up a bit faster if you keep the fan off until the engine warms up a bit and then turned the fan on so it would have hot air to blow around and not start out by blowing cold air and then eventually heat up. Older vehicles had it so when you put a huge load on the electrical like having your blower at full speed it would put a huge demand on your alternator and old engines would start the alternator immediately as the engine was on. Newer engines have the alternator start up a few seconds after you get it running so it doesn't put a huge strain on the engine as it just started up and is beginning to run. One recommendation for you is to hookup your rear defroster (if you have it) and heated mirrors (also if you have them) to your defrost wire on the remote start. Mine will automatically come on from remote start if it's 40 degrees or cooler out or if I command them to turn on from my remote but it is super helpful if you are in a cold place where your mirrors and back window ice over. I have a cap on the back so I don't need the rear window to be warm but the mirrors are helpful as they defog and defrost for me before I get out to brush off the snow or jump in lately when it gets cold at night.
  6. You definitely will not get the auto feature since you have manual controls. Just set your fan speed to 3/4 or full speed and put your temperature where you like it and set how you want the vents to work. For me in my previous vehicle that had manual controls I had the blower speed set to full, temperature up all the way in the winter and down all the way in the summer and the vents were on defrost and floor (it shows the picture of the defrost vent up top near the persons head and an arrow pointing down to the persons feet. I found that this setup worked the best so it would help me heat up the cabin a little bit and also defrost the windshield and side windows a bit to help remove condensation and snow/ice in the winter. Then once I jump in I just adjust the settings to wherever you are comfortable.
  7. If it's really dried on you can just use some window cleaner and a nice razor blade. I have one of the razor blades that swings out and makes the handle longer to help you get your hand down at the bottom of the dashboard for the registration/inspection stickers. I always first use the razor on the label dry to scrape as much off as possible then I spray the remaining part with window cleaner and let it sit for a minute and go to town with the razor blade and it comes right off. If it's super sticky or you have a ton of sticky stuff to remove just stop every so often during the process and wipe the crud off the blade and go back to town on scraping it all off. I would definitely recommend you scrape when cold as adhesives get super sticky and hard to get off when they are warm, also the window cleaner will evaporate faster if your window is warm. If you have anything on the glass like paint residue I just use some soapy water and a claybar to get it off.
  8. If you have a vacuum pump shove it down the dipstick tube and siphon out as much fluid as you possibly can to minimize the mess. What I did was remove all the bolts holding the pan on the tranny and then I lowered the pan slightly to break the pan loose from the gasket. Then spin the gasket around so it is no longer touching the pan towards the rear of the truck (near that damn exhaust cross pipe) and then put the pan up in the rear and wiggle it past the filter. Just take your time and you will get it down just be prepared to get messy, put down cardboard to save your driveway if you are worried about it.
  9. I bought 4 of the 1 gallon jugs of dexron vi, I wish I did 5 gallons though but it was fine. I bought it off amazon as it was the cheapest one I could find aside from going to advance auto for the fluid but they only have the single quarts so you get a better deal on the big gallon containers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EKMGG92/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3B850ZGIPDG3A&psc=1
  10. I siphoned it with my mityvac pump. It's a manual pump kind of like an old school bicycle pump but mine can dispense and vacuum fluids so it's really handy. Just go in through the dipstick tube and drain as much as you can out. You can skip it if you wanted to but you will get a bath in trans fluid so I would recommend evacuating it as much as possible through the dip stick before you loosen and drop the pan as you have a good fight to get the pan out around the exhaust and the filter still in the trans. Being you are low mileage a drop and refill would be fine. I chose to do a drop and refill with a new filter and then disconnected the cooler line on the drivers side of the radiator and pumped the fluid in a bucket until it came out bright red like what I was pouring in. I was at 54k miles though so I chose to flush it out as much as I can to keep up on it. The gasket on the pan has two little nipples that align up when you get the pan reinstalled so going the route I did with having the gasket loose so you have that extra 1/8" of room to drop the pan was very helpful as the gasket is out of the way. Once you clear the exhaust pipe and filter you can turn the gasket so it's into position and place the two nipples in the small holes drilled in the corner of the pan and then put the pan up and start bolting it in. That exhaust pipe and clearing the filter in the trans is the hardest part and it wasn't that bad to do. Just be careful and make sure you have a good grip on the pan, I goofed up and had my hands get oily and it slipped out of my hand when I managed to wiggle it free and I dropped the empty pan in my catch container and splashed it everywhere lol. edit: Get a few large cardboard boxes to lay on the ground if you value your driveway looking clean and wear some crappy clothes as you will definitely get dirty on this job.
  11. When I siphoned out my pan before I dropped the pan to replace the filter I think I drained out around 4.5-5 quarts of fluid. You still have more than that in your torque converter so remember that. I did not replace the gasket as it was in flawless condition so just don't cut it up or anything that would ruin the seal and you can reuse it. One tip with dropping the pan is to first siphon out the fluid from the pan if you can so you don't wear a ton of the transmission fluid. Then remove all the bolts holding the pan on. Next with the pan loose from the body of the trans take the rubber gasket and spin it sideways away from the pan, you don't want the gasket on the reward part of the pan since that is where it will get bound up with the exhaust. With the gasket at like a 45 degree angle drop the front of the pan down and then wiggle around the rear of the pan to get it past the exhaust and filter. Take your time so you don't snag the gasket or ruin any lines in the trans. I didn't need to loosen or remove any parts of the exhaust at all. I tried to loosen both the bolts securing the trans mount to the frame and jack up on the trans but that doesn't give you any extra room between the pan and the exhaust so don't waste your time.
  12. That's what I figured was happening to you. If you have a punch that goes to a point try that on it. Also try taking your hammer and give it a single sharp hit on the head of the bolt before you try to knock it off with the chisel point.
  13. Can you get on it with a small pipe wrench maybe to clamp on it and crack it loose. If that doesn't work buy another plug since you will need it. To get the old one out try taking an air chisel hammer and put a ding in the bolt and hold it at an angle to try and hammer it off. Once you get it loose enough you will be able to back it out by hand and just put the new plug in after you get it out.
  14. I'm with 1slow, there is a main harness down further from where the washer hose is. It's like 2 inches maybe or larger. There is a tiny nipple on the top of the grommet. I used a old metal coat hanger to feed in 3 12gauge wires for my remote start when I hooked up an aftermarket one. I plan to shove a single run of 0 gauge in there too next year for my system and if I can't I will make a hole just next to it and have it's own grommet for it.
  15. I know that in the winter the little holes where the wheel liner is secured on by have corrosion marks from the road salt. The front wheels have rust starting where it peeled off the primer/corrosion protection on the lower corner where the mudflap is as well as the mounting tab just above the bumper in the wheel well. For the rear wheels I have rust starting to bubble the paint in the middle area of the wheel arch. I am playing around with fluid film and shot it on the outside of the lip just to see how it holds up as well as put it on spots of the frame to see how it looks after this upcoming winter. If it seems to help then I will pull the liners and finish spraying them as well as spray the entire frame. Another area prone to rusting is the front door jamb where the hinges are. The little padded material they stuffed in there collects dirt and all kinds of junk (I had leaves and pine needles from the previous owner all in the bottom of there). I just pulled both my front wheel liners and used compressed air to blow out all the crap in there and will see next year how much junk builds up and maybe make it a routine yearly to pull the liners and blow out all the accumulated garbage in there.
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