You can get a power distribution block like this. https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-double-led-meter-single-din-kit-1119.html or without the volt meter https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-quad-color.html They are meant for high amperage power wires though and not something like tiny 12ga wire leads.
I hate to make you spend money but double check your rear sway bar links as well. They usually last a lot longer than the fronts but it wouldn't hurt to make sure they are still okay. All you need to do is take the truck and rock it side to side as if you are trying to flip it over onto it's side. Sway bar bushings and links will clunk when you rock the truck from one side to the other.
You will have no problem. This is a super easy job that anyone can do with a socket set and a wrench set. An impact sure makes quick work if you have really rusty bolts on it but hand tools will work with some swearing and cranking. lol. I found it easier to take off the tires and have even more room for work instead of trying to work around the tire. Once both are loose depending on the condition of your sway bar bushings your sway bar may want to fall down or will stay in place. While you're at it you might as well double check the bushings for the sway bar and if they are bad go ahead and replace them at the same time while everything is apart. It would make for a easier job for you. Don't worry about driving it with the links being shot. As long as you don't take sharp turns at 40 miles per hour you will be fine.
Yupp like others mentioned your sway bar end links are shot. From my own experience they can last around 50-70k miles if you have really bad roads around where you live. The style on our front ends lasts a lot longer than the ball joint style links. Just as a tip, when you go to replace them make sure both front tires are under weight and even. Like jack up just the front end of the truck and put jack stands under both lower control arms and lower the truck down on top of it. If the truck is even slightly off level it will be a giant pain in the butt to get the links off since they will be under load and you won't want to unbolt them as the parts can explode and hurt you. Trust me, my dad did his under weight. If you have problems with rust not allowing you to take the nuts off just take a sawsall to them or use an oxy acetylene torch to cut them out. Just make sure you protect your CV boot from damage. And finally, when tightening the bolts up you don't want to do it to the point where the rubber bushings are totally collapsed. You want them to be pretty close to even for spacing from both the top and bottom bushings on the control arm and sway bar. If you over-tighten the link you will notice one bushing is totally collapsed and swelling outwards a ton where the other bushing on the other side is it's normal thickness.
kickass audio replied to bump8503's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra Troubleshootingmaybe a MAF issue? usually it works fine on a cold engine then when it warms up the computer uses it for controlling the engine.
@Dr Awesome how does your cap look on the other side? I centered mine as best as I could and it's sticking out a little more on the drivers side rear than the passenger side. I didn't use a hoist or anything to pick up the cap though. I just unbolted the 4 hold down clamps for it and got in the bed and stood up with the cap on my back and walked it towards the rear of the truck about 2 feet so I could get in between the cap and the cab to wash and wax that area. I need to do it again but I haven't cleaned my truck yet this summer. I'm slacking from working on the house. For other members, how many windows are tinted on your cap? All of the windows on mine are tinted and I can barely see a damn thing in the rearview mirror at night. The trucks rear window and the 2 windows you would look through are tinted on the cap so it's super dark. I am fine with it since I barely ever use the mirror inside and mainly use my outside mirrors since I'm used to not having an inside mirror as my previous truck had a sound system in it and the mirror kept breaking off the window so I gave up using it.
So correction, mine is more than likely just slightly off angle as it is a little wider towards the rear on my drivers side and it's a steady opening on the passenger side. The reason for it to not be a perfect fit is they use this cap for multiple vehicles not just the silverado/sierra. Also fiberglass doesn't really bend for this type of resin that was used. If you try to bend it, the fiberglass resin will crack. Here is how my keys open up the handles now:
I forgot to add, I also modified the locks on the window. Being I live in Buffalo, NY where we put a metric shit ton of salt on the road in the winter and it corrodes everything my locks for the window were seized up on me in the spring. I removed the lock handles for the glass and went to my bench vice and pounded out the shaft for the lock and removed the cylinder and turned it 180 degrees. Mine from the factory had the pins for the keys facing upwards which is pretty retarded since any dirt and rain would enter the lock and sit on the pins for the cylinder and make it seize like mine did. My locks are now facing downwards so that when I put the key in the tumblers are facing down to the bumper and my key has to have the cut part facing upwards to unlock the handles. I will see how long this modification lasts next winter since i've only had my truck for a year now.
I have a ranch cap on my truck, it's the same Sierra edition. Mine has the same problem where towards the cab it sticks out a bit. I also have it leaking a tiny bit of water in the rear most part where the glass window is. If it's super windy and pouring outside I get a little water that leaks in from the side windows. The previous owner of my truck had the cap installed and used foam window weather stripping on the ledge where the cap meets the bed rails and the back of the bed where the cab is. I scratched the paint of my truck a bit when I was picking up the cap and moving it towards the rear of the truck so I could clean the window surface between the cap and the cab. What I found is that it isn't a problem with the cap but rather the bed of the truck. When I was sliding the cap to the tailgate I noticed that the gap you see when the cap is normally installed at the front gets smaller and smaller the more you put the cap towards the rear of the truck. It seems like the factory bed on these trucks is a tiny bit smaller towards the front and larger at the rear. I myself am fine with the size difference in the cap but for the leaking one of these days i'm going to take the rear window and the high mount stop light out and use silicone to seal it and not the foam weatherstripping they used at the factory. For the harness my cap when I bought the truck used was not wired properly. The white led that illuminates the bed was hooked up to the ground wire of the left turn signal and my CHMSL was wired to the left turn signal as well. I think it looks stupid when a truck is turning and the high mount stop light blinks as well so I re-wired the harness so that the 2 wires that are for the cab light are tapped into the side lights of my bed and that the 2 wires for the high mount stop light are wired to the high mount stop light wire underneath the truck just inside where the trailer harness connector is. The only thing I cannot figure out how to do easily is remove the side windows so I can take the glass out and clean the track. My one window on the drivers side is very hard to slide (I rarely slide them anyway but still) and my passenger slides easy. I also want to get a tailgate seal for the factory tailgate on the truck so I have even less chance of water intrusion. I'm not expecting it to be totally water proof but it would be nice for some resistance in water intrusion.
I was bumped into on my old GMC Envoy at a red-light. I had my trailer hitch mounted the entire time since I always rode around towing my jet ski on the weekends (it's technically not legal in New York state to drive with your hitch on if you're not towing) but he bumped me lightly but his bumper got stuck on the ball and ripped a huge hole in the front end. I had small dings on the plastic bumper but no structural damage. His car had a ton of damage. I'd suggest looking at the truck from the side to see if your rear bumper seems like it is tilted, that would indicate the rear bumper was tapped and knocked off of alignment. No big deal to fix though but it can help you see if you have any dents or anything on the bumper. Being how high up your truck is on the rear end and how much further the 2500's hitch sticks out the back end I'd say you're perfectly fine. The bumpers on our trucks are really thin and easy to bend to all hell if you bump something with them. Do you have a pic of the damage done to the other car? If the other car only had damage to the center of the car then you more than likely just took the hit on the receiver and nowhere else. I'd still take it to a body shop just to have them check it out, it won't go on your trucks history or insurance if they just do a quick inspection. If it was my truck, as long as it isn't a huge dent or crease or structural damage I would just shrug it off. I have dents all over my truck already and am not wasting money fixing them at a paintless dent repair shop. It's a truck, it was meant to be used and have character from it's use haha.
they have ones like the type linked below that have a removal and install tool http://www.sears.com/pbt-stretch-fit-belt-kit/p-00922024000P?sid=IDx01192011x202447059&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9LPYBRDSARIsAHL7J5mWPyKECROeflOtxajpXdeNy0bgz5OrQcINwAcCq5UJbVMgnBzIhPUaApjWEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNXwn5_Dq9sCFQ4IDAodumoGPw
Is accessorizing your truck something that you are currently interested and/or investing in? Yes. I accessorize the truck to the point where it has the features I wish to have on my vehicle but not to the point where I am sinking money into a vehicle that I will never see back. Would you purchase something because it's priced cheaper, regardless of negative reviews, or options of higher-end, better quality products? YES but only after reading reviews so that I can determine if it would be a high enough quality to justify saving the money. Would you purchase an accessory purely based on how it looks? Even if that means the product does not work well or may not work at all? No.
I was just thinking to replace them when I get this next set of tires since they will be unmounted. I read mixed things online that it can last 10 years or so and wasn't exactly sure. I have the relearn tool but can't easily knock the tire off the bead and put a new sensor in at home so I didn't know if it is truly a waste to put new sensors in or just leave the factory ones alone. It probably doesn't cost much to leave them alone and if it does randomly die on the new set of tires have it unmounted and replaced and then remount the tire but I just don't want to have another rim leak issue from screwing around with the tire to replace a dead sensor. If I can go 2 sets of tires on these factory sensors I will. I wish I had the higher level sensor tool to read how much battery life is left in each sensor.
The only one I wish that had a sensor is the spare just because it's a bit of an annoying pain to crawl under the truck just to check the pressure. Oh well. Mine thankfully isn't really rusted and doesn't leak.
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