kickass audio

I agree with Dave, you probably have broken wires in the wire harness at the door. My 2014 had a issue on the drivers rear door where there was 1 broken wire in the rubber conduit that runs between the B pillar and the door and it was not unlocking/locking the door at all. I repaired the wire and all was good again. You will need to remove the B pillar trim and pull the wire harness from there and pull the door panel and pull the door harness through to the inside of the door and investigate it. Mine had a random break and had corrosion on the wire that broke open so it was damaged for awhile before finally breaking off.

that's the oil cooler lines. GM makes some crap lines that love to leak on all generations. I replaced them on my 2014 and i'm sure my 2023 will need it eventually as well. If you have a 4WD truck they can be a royal pain to replace but not impossible.

further update since I replaced the switch on my truck. The new switch was disassembled and I used RTV sealant between the rubber cover and the switch body to hopefully seal it for life. I disassembled the old switch and the small PCB was removed. The switch itself is very simple, just use a rubber button to short out contacts and ground the signal wire going to the BCM. The problem seemed to be moisture got inside and ruined the PCB and there was some corrosion where the PCB is connected to the little 2 pin connector inside the switch. I tried to leave the PCB out to fully dry out and even use some heat on it but when I probe the switch at either the 2 pins that run through to the wire tail or probe on the contact pads where the button engages the switch, i still get random resistance readings. The corrosion is very small but it looks to be of salt (surprise there, I live in New York and we abuse the road with salt) and likely soaked the PCB. I was able to clean the corrosion on the tiny contacts inside the button as I was also getting odd resistance values there too but the PCB seems to be a lost cause. I hope the new switch will stay in good order but if it fails, I might just say screw it with the terrible design of the switch and use the connector for the failed switch with sealed off wires to make a connection that seals the plug in the tailgate to prevent corrosion on the tailgate harness and call it a day. The new switch has the wires routed to the middle of the switch before they loop back out and run to the connection toward the middle of the tailgate and the rubber cap where the switch is located was changed from 4 centering pins to 2 pins to help center the button, otherwise it's the same design. What surprises me is having moisture in there in the first place. I know for those with the multi-pro tailgate the grab area at the top of the gate has 2 drain holes that dump out right on the tailgate switch but my tailgate is a standard power up/down gate and has a totally solid plastic top plate. I also have a diamondback bed cover on it and it does a great job sealing water from getting in the bed, the only water that sneaks in is when I open the cover and water dribbles down to the center and in the bed.

So it turned out that the tailgate switch took a crap on me. It was stuck in a partially closed position with anywhere from 1.2 to 18 killiohms of resistance and when you press the button it went to .4 ohms of resistance. The only reason I found it was the tailgate is when I left the truck charged up and unlocked and kept walking back out to the thing and the tailgate was down. I also noticed when I hooked up the battery, it would play the chimes that play when you're lowering/raising the tailgate through the door speakers. I opened up the tailgate and disconnected the button and it immediately stopped keeping the BCM and radio awake and after about 10 minutes, the passenger airbag backlight went out as the modules went into a deep sleep. It also stopped the chime for the tailgate alarm when I reconnect the battery under the hood. So others know, you CAN operate the tailgate without the switch plugged in at the tailgate with a few workarounds. 1.) you can raise/lower the tailgate (if yours has a full power gate like mine) with the button on the dashboard 2.) You can raise/lower the tailgate with the button on your keyfob. 3.) If you have a power gate like mine, you can still slightly raise the gate and it will kick the tilt sensor in and close the tailgate for you. I will say this is yet another wonderful GM engineering design. I took the old sensor apart just to see if it was wet inside and only had a tiny drop of water maybe the size of a pencil tip. I tried to heat up the sensor to dry it out if something was really built up with moisture and tried to blow it out with compressed air and nothing else came out of it and the water spot was just as if you had a wet fingertip and poked the button. The button is poorly made and has 2 rubber components. The first rubber piece if where your finger presses the button from the outside and the second rubber piece is inside the switch where the conductive rubber contacts the button itself. The flaw seems to be with the conductive rubber piece as it's not sealed at all to prevent water/moisture intrusion. The wire going to the switch is sealed but the button is only sealed where the wires lead into the switch and not so much where the button is recessed in the body. I ordered a new switch for the tailgate and am going to take matters in my own hands and take the new button apart and see if they fixed the sealing issue with the button between the outer rubber cover and the conductive rubber piece. If they didn't, I am going to use RTV to seal up the button and hopefully prevent this nonsense from happening again.

Thank god I went outside and noticed my dash cam was lit up recording which meant the radio was sending power to the USB ports because I had a totally dead battery on my truck tonight. It let me unlock the doors with the fob but the lights were strobing and it couldn't crank until it was jump started. So far from what i'm seeing, it had the radio providing power to the USB ports in the truck all last night until it died at 9:30am this morning. Looking through the dash cam footage, it shows almost every night at 4:54am the radio wakes up and starts my dash cam then shuts itself off a minute later. I still have the lovely GM radio issue where the audio cuts out and back on again at random, i doubt GM will ever get this crap right and fix it, but has anyone else had a similar problem where the truck just won't fully go to sleep and makes the battery die? The keys are not kept anywhere near the truck, nobody is going near the truck to try and wake up the radio or anything like how it primes the fuel pump, the truck is locked as shown in my dashcam footage so it was never unlocked, no tampering of any kind, not even a rodent as there was snow last night and it was totally undisturbed until I walked out and noticed the camera running. This truck has been nothing but a pain in the ass with the radio and random other crap it pulls. I wish there was a company out there that could build a decent vehicle and not a electronic pile of junk on wheels. edit: The only other recent problem I have had is one time I shut the truck down for 3 minutes and went to start it back up and the drivers instrument cluster screen had no backlight illumination but the truck was running fine and the radio was working as normal. I had to just shut down the truck and open my door then close the door and restart the engine and it went back to normal. The ground connections at the battery and the chassis ground that goes from the head to the body and firewall are all in good shape.

I tried 3M cavity wax on my old 2014 Silverado and it didn't help with crap, probably because it was too late when I bought it after it was a lease and the rocker rusted through on the passenger rear at the bottom and the rear wheel wells were rusting through even though I flush them constantly and use the wax coating on it. My current 2023 is nice and clean and only has a tiny bit of surface rust on the very front upper frame area where it's hard to reach for having it coated and I take it to rustkote for undercoating every fall before winter and it's been doing great. I also pull the wheel liners in the summer and fully clean the liners and the steel then wax it with carnuba wax and touch up on the cavity wax for any edges that are hard to wax. I do have to pay each year for the cavity wax but i'm not happy with the work i've seen done at krown and ziebart. Rustkote does a great job for me with coating the bottom and inside the doors and rockers, my only complaint with them is they spray the inside of the engine where the cross brace and frame at the top by the radiator sits and it makes a mess of overspray and I just take a old oil rag to wipe up the excess on the plastics. They also try to wash the overspray on the body but it doesn't work and I always take the truck home and hand wash it to get the excess off the body panels and glass. You can hand wash but can't flush the underside and even where I live, the carwash doesn't have any underspray like they advertise so it will never flush the underside out.

The only thing I can see to ruin a sensor is if it left a film behind on it to throw off the radar for the sensors that detect when you're about to rear end someone. I personally use -25 or -30 washer fluid year round since we sometimes get cold winter days where it will clog the line in the wiper cowl and I need to go out with a heat gun to thaw them out to get it working again if I didn't use fluid meant for lower temperatures. I also am too lazy to swap fluids when the seasons change so I just stick with winter fluid year round.

GM appears to have run a successful update. My truck just received the OTA update 25-250552 for connectivity issues and onstar corrections as listed at https://static.oemdtc.com/NHTSA-PDFs/MC-11021070-0001.pdf. It installed successfully after like 5 attempts. I don't pay for onstar and when it was ready to install the update, it dropped the bluetooth which in turn made my phones automatic trigger for mobile hotspot turn off so the update would not download (despite it being set to download in the background at all times). I had to pair my truck up to my home WiFi and let it update then it went through successfully. I still don't have the update the newer 2024+ have for the HVAC afterblow but I noticed my blower will kick on approximately 10-15 minutes after shut down when I was sitting inside the cab to dry out the evaporator core. I did also try to use my friends scan tool to set the afterblow feature to enabled so it might be working from that feature. Time will tell though.

i'm calling BS on this. It's only possible to have engine coolant contaminate the trans fluid since the first part of the passage in that era truck will have the trans line run through a warming tube on the side cap of the radiator that cools the engine coolant before it then passes onto the secondary radiator that has 100% isolated chambers for the air conditioner condenser and aux trans cooler. I know 100% this is the design as I had a leak in the AC condenser and had to replace the condenser and aux trans cooler. On my 2014 the upper portion of the setup, maybe like the first 4 inches from the top, are a bit thicker for the passageways that connect to the fins on the radiator to dissipate heat and it had a totally separate connection that was tack welded to try and make it one assembly for removal/installation. At no time does the trans fluid come into contact with the HVAC lines. The newer refresh trucks like my new one have totally separate coolers where the condenser is on it's own and the same for the secondary transmission cooler. The only shared cooling is with the heat tube that runs through one side of the radiator for the engine oil cooler and the transmission cooler before the trans line passes to the secondary radiator for additional cooling.

My 2023 hasn't had a OTA in over a year since they screwed up the truck and I had to take it in for repair with the transfer case control module going out, but I had to go back to the dealer and demand a fix. they claimed the radio was up to date (total Bullshit on that claim) but they ordered a new radio module and installed the latest update for it and it fixed my problems. The only issue I still have is when my radio pairs up to WiFi, the sound cuts out for a second and comes right back, usually a few times while the radio is restarting all it's background services. I had a new problem caused by the update where the voice assistant through the button on the wheel would not respond other than for android auto where you long press the button. I finally fixed that bug over the weekend by disabling the voice assistant system in the radio settings and then setting it back to google assistant and it's working as normal.

I haven't experienced the pre-refresh BOSE radios but I had a loaner 2025 Silverado with the turdomax engine and base 6 speaker radio and wow the factory low end model is such a piece of crap compared to my 2023 with the mid level bose radio. The front door speakers are more like woofer and I can't say I hear anything for bass from the woofer in the center console unless it's midbass like higher notes around 80Hz or above. I'm honestly happy with my setup. I would consider an additional amp for the rear doors but it's good enough for my liking and I used to have a ridiculous sound system in my old vehicles. I transplanted the rear door speakers with Rockford Fosgate T1 6.75" speakers without the tweeter and it didn't really change the sound. I wanted to play with moving the front 2 ohm 6x9 BOSE speakers to the rear door and see if the amplifier can handle 2 ohm loads on all 4 channels but never did it when I had the doors apart. The ohm load difference in my opinion is why the front doors are so heavy with bass because they are getting double the power than the rear doors. You can also test this by putting your fader all the way to the rear and it shuts off the front speakers completely but if you move the fader to the front just 1 click it will make the front doors get heavy with bass. I really wish they didn't get 2 ohm speakers in the front door and ran standard 4 ohm speakers all around because then I could put my existing speakers in the front doors and not have a huge loss of volume output on the radio. I can buy new 2 ohm speakers in the aftermarket but they are not that common and cost a ton of money compared to the 4 ohm versions on the market. Plus I could also modify the door and run a pair of 4 ohm speakers in parallel to get a 2 ohm load but it's not worth the hassle for me at this time.

does your truck show anything on the dash that the door is ajar at all? The thing that's weird is these trucks should have a setup where you pull the inner handle once to unlock the door and pull it again to release the door latch and open it up. I did have on my old 2014 where the door was worked on but when I closed the door I did it lightly so the latch was holding the door shut but it wasn't closed hard. I just had to hip check the door shut and it let me get back in again as normal. I would try to pull the inside handle and watch that the plunger raises up and then try to pinch the plunger rod and pull it up hard then see if you can get the door to open from inside. Did you mess with the exterior handle at all? What about the inside cable that goes to the inner door handle? Was it fully secured and not sitting partially in the groove so it's putting tension on the cable to possibly cause a lockout?

good luck, hopefully they don't get you on the Y172 firmware and you go straight to Y175. Mine is a world of difference from the old radio to the new radio module with performance.

I have heard of others where the audio never comes back but not anyone mention the issue with the channel selector buttons stopping. I suspect it's a radio failure for your truck. Did you try to boot into safe mode and see if you can drive around in safe mode and see if your problem occurs then too?

Update on my problems for now. I was able to get the radio updated to the Y175 firmware everyone has been reporting as the fix for the bluetooth call audio crackling and only have 1 issue now. The issue I have is that pressing and releasing the voice prompt button on the steering wheel does nothing but you can still use "hey google" or "OK google" to issue commands (pending you have onstar data service active or are connected to WiFi with the truck). The dealer couldn't update my original radio to Y175 firmware and said it's been something they run into a lot lately where the radio module is just defective and needs to be swapped out (radio's cost over $600 from what I found). The dealer was also nice enough to get me a loaner 2025 silverado LT. albeit it had the turdomax engine that sounded pathetic when started. it also had a issue where the turn signal stalk would not turn itself off after completing a turn and i'm putting my money on it being that it has a column shifter and it moved the entire steering wheel cover when you put the truck into gear. I hope nobody else with a shifter in their dash runs into that problem. The dealership replaced my radio module (part #: 85086705) and reflashed the new radio with the latest update (build number: full_gminfo37_gb-user 12 W213E-Y175.5.2-SIHM22B-383.1 213 release-keys). I provided them with preliminary bulletin ID's PIT6241 (relating to the crackling noise when on a call) and PIT6101M (relating to the short loss of audio output during a drive cycle). The dealers service write up details document #'s 6557575 and 6730784 which i'm not sure the details of but I would imagine it's for the same problems of audio drop out and bluetooth call audio crackling. The effects of the Y175 update are: 1.) As my truck experienced with the Y172 patch that was installed as part of the recall late last year, navigation audio was set to 0 along with the google assistant voice prompts. This is an easy fix and I just tell it to read aloud a text message and continue to raise the volume up on the radio to my desired level while it's reading the google assistant prompt. I also set a destination on google maps and when I know it's giving commands for where to turn, etc. just turn up the radio volume to the desired level. 2.) The microphone button on the steering wheel doesn't interface with the radio anymore. It only will claim to send the command to my phone as controlling the assistant feature. If you are paying for onstar data services or have a connection to your truck via WiFi and mobile hotspot, you can still use "hey google" or "OK google" to give commands like send a text message, set the cabin temperature, call someone, etc. 3.) The radio operates the fastest I have ever experienced. I am able to switch screens and see notifications that I never had before like when an app is updating through the play store, different setting screens for items that need attention. 4.) Some quick testing shows that only 1 time out of the 20 messages I received with RCS chat enabled on my phone were now coming through the radio and able to be read aloud to me. I was never able to get RCS chat messages to play through the radio in a consistent manner unless I turned off RCS messaging on my phone as a whole. 5.) I still have a brief 1 second outage of sound at rare times but the audio comes right back on and i'm not concerned about that. It ONLY happened when I was connected via WiFi and also occurred in the loaner truck so it just seems to be another GM bug that needs to be worked out eventually. 6.) Unrelated to the update but as part of the radio replacement, I now have a new XM radio ID and needed to re-enter the subscription to get it activated. It did come with a trial probably for a week is my guess since it was a new radio. I also had to setup my offline maps again and have them download to memory along with pairing my phone and WiFi back up. Nothing that is too hard for the average person to handle.

Update on my problems for now. I was able to get the radio updated to the Y175 firmware everyone has been reporting as the fix for the bluetooth call audio crackling and only have 1 issue now. The issue I have is that pressing and releasing the voice prompt button on the steering wheel does nothing but you can still use "hey google" or "OK google" to issue commands (pending you have onstar data service active or are connected to WiFi with the truck). The dealer couldn't update my original radio to Y175 firmware and said it's been something they run into a lot lately where the radio module is just defective and needs to be swapped out (radio's cost over $600 from what I found). The dealer was also nice enough to get me a loaner 2025 silverado LT. albeit it had the turdomax engine that sounded pathetic when started. it also had a issue where the turn signal stalk would not turn itself off after completing a turn and i'm putting my money on it being that it has a column shifter and it moved the entire steering wheel cover when you put the truck into gear. I hope nobody else with a shifter in their dash runs into that problem. The dealership replaced my radio module (part #: 85086705) and reflashed the new radio with the latest update (build number: full_gminfo37_gb-user 12 W213E-Y175.5.2-SIHM22B-383.1 213 release-keys). I provided them with preliminary bulletin ID's PIT6241 (relating to the crackling noise when on a call) and PIT6101M (relating to the short loss of audio output during a drive cycle). The dealers service write up details document #'s 6557575 and 6730784 which i'm not sure the details of but I would imagine it's for the same problems of audio drop out and bluetooth call audio crackling. The effects of the Y175 update are: 1.) As my truck experienced with the Y172 patch that was installed as part of the recall late last year, navigation audio was set to 0 along with the google assistant voice prompts. This is an easy fix and I just tell it to read aloud a text message and continue to raise the volume up on the radio to my desired level while it's reading the google assistant prompt. I also set a destination on google maps and when I know it's giving commands for where to turn, etc. just turn up the radio volume to the desired level. 2.) The microphone button on the steering wheel doesn't interface with the radio anymore. It only will claim to send the command to my phone as controlling the assistant feature. If you are paying for onstar data services or have a connection to your truck via WiFi and mobile hotspot, you can still use "hey google" or "OK google" to give commands like send a text message, set the cabin temperature, call someone, etc. 3.) The radio operates the fastest I have ever experienced. I am able to switch screens and see notifications that I never had before like when an app is updating through the play store, different setting screens for items that need attention. 4.) Some quick testing shows that only 1 time out of the 20 messages I received with RCS chat enabled on my phone were now coming through the radio and able to be read aloud to me. I was never able to get RCS chat messages to play through the radio in a consistent manner unless I turned off RCS messaging on my phone as a whole. 5.) I still have a brief 1 second outage of sound at rare times but the audio comes right back on and i'm not concerned about that. It ONLY happened when I was connected via WiFi and also occurred in the loaner truck so it just seems to be another GM bug that needs to be worked out eventually. 6.) Unrelated to the update but as part of the radio replacement, I now have a new XM radio ID and needed to re-enter the subscription to get it activated. It did come with a trial probably for a week is my guess since it was a new radio. I also had to setup my offline maps again and have them download to memory along with pairing my phone and WiFi back up. Nothing that is too hard for the average person to handle.

You're right on the bleeder size. It's 10MM for the head. You don't need a fancy motionpro tool. If your bleeders are very rusty I just take a normal 6 point 10MM socket to the bleeder and try to tighten them to see if it can move a tiny bit then if it does back it off and get on it with a 10MM 12 point open end wrench and hook the tube up to the nipple on the bleeder and let it flow. I personally have a kobalt thru-socket set that they don't make anymore but it has 6 point sockets and allows you to use the ratchet and hook the hose to the bleeder and makes for fast brake jobs in the driveway. A similar tool to mine but with maybe 1/4 of the socket sizes is https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klein-Tools-8-inch-Impact-Pass-Thru-Socket-Wrench-Set-with-Case/5014447181?gStoreCode=1881&gQT=1 Another good suggestion for firming up your brake, jack the truck up on all 4's and put it into gear and spin the tires in the air (no need to hit the throttle though since it's not pushing the truck your speed will get up to around 30 MPH sometimes) and get the speed up to 20-30MPH and apply the brakes slowly. Your ABS will kick in like nuts. Do that once and then put the truck in 4 wheel drive high and do the same procedure. I will give a word of caution, doing this if you do it too many times will cause a ABS fault code that will light up your dash and say you have reduced speed because your wheel speed sensors will not be reading the same speed and your truck thinks it lost a wheel speed sensor. It's a easy fix though if this happens, just get the truck back on the ground and roll it down your driveway back and forth a few times, the light will turn off and you will be back in full control/power of the truck.

As Cam said, it will not require any special tools. I would however give great recommendations and suggestions to use a vacuum pump to help with bleeding the brakes. I have a mityvac vacuum pump that is hand pumped and can dispense fluid as well. I bought the mityvac MVA6000 kit that gives you a ton of rubber adapters for hooking up to items like your bleeder valves and you can make your own custom tip too. The pump I use is a MV7201. You can of course get a cheaper pump elsewhere but I cannot recommend mityvac enough. My only problem with my pump is the rubber stopper that fits on the top of the cylinder for draining out fluid has enlarged itself to the point where it can be hard to pull out of the pump. I swear that is my own problem though as I stored it with the stopper expanded and I think it set in that position. I will add that you don't want something as simple as a harbor freight hand pump that is meant for hot oil draining. I personally flush the lines out every 3 years to the point that the fluid coming out is crystal clear. Start at the furthest point from your master cylinder (passenger rear), then go to the drivers rear, go to the front passenger, and end at the drivers front. I also do not depress the brake pedal at all during the bleeding. I found that on my old 2014 when I changed the brake fluid out, I was able to capture just a tiny bit of air in the lines as the tube on my pump showed some bubbles in it and it made a huge difference in brake performance after the flush.

it's a known issue and GM has been useless as always with me in getting it resolved. The recall work was done on my truck in October and since then my truck has been even worse than before with audio issues. After the recall work, my radio was updated to android 12 but EVERY phone call I am on will result in the caller playing through the speakers with an annoying crackling sound. The audio cutting out problem has never been fixed at all and has gotten worse. It mutes every sound, the turn signal sound, your radio, calls, etc. It seems to me like the amplifier is turning off then back on. I am running OS build Y172 and others have reported that the Y175 update or newer fixes the issue of the bluetooth audio crackling but nothing about the audio cutting out and back in. I have a 2023 and others who reported the fix with Y175 firmware have a 2024 so i'm not sure if mine will get fixed but I have another appointment with the dealer Wednesday to have them try to flash the radio again but they will replace the radio module. The best thing is GM customer service won't do anything until the idiots at the dealership try their useless attempts to fix the issue and the dealer claims my truck is fully up to date but I swear the idiots didn't do anything but hit check for updates in the radio when they need to use their programmer to update the firmware higher. There are service bulletins for the exact issues of audio cutting in/out and bluetooth crackling and it reads that the dealer is to do nothing but apologize for the issue and alert customers that GM is aware of the software bug and it will be fixed in another update in the future. It also specifically states to NOT replace the radio module like my dealer is trying to do. I love the truck but these software updates and GM firing the programmers who develop the truck is getting to the point that I hate this truck. GM also loves to patch problems like the transmission lockup failure with a software fix and not an actual legitimate repair.

It's just a total joke how GM is with these problems. You fired a load of your software engineers so anyone who might have known how to fix the quirks is long gone and there is just total incompetence with techs and engineers working on fixing their **** up. The fact that GM even said they don't know what they can do after the warranty ends on my truck despite raising the problem before bumper to bumper ends is really a big FU for owning this truck. I love the truck but for having so many damn software introduced problems it's getting to be a bigger piece of ****** than my old 2014 was and even my 2014 had issues where the radio would just crap out with playing audio, the backup camera would freeze and get locked on the screen and i'd have to shut the truck off and come back after 10 minutes to get it back to normal (I get this issue on my 2023 too but not as frequently), the HVAC would drop out and come back on when it felt like it.

well we will see what happens in 2 weeks. Going back to the dealer to have them try to look for additional updates (like I requested the last time) and if it doesn't help, they will be trying a new radio module and program that to see if it helps. My guess is they won't find the magical Y175 or newer firmware for the radio and will likely flash the new radio to an older update that I had prior to the recall work being done in october last year. If that's the case it just means the recall work was marked as performed but i'm back at square one again with the damn truck. I also mentioned bulletins PIT6101M and PIT6241 for the issue and they BOTH indicate NOT to replace the radio and to wait for GM to release a new software version to fix the issue but again the dealer wants to do their own thing and GM customer service won't step in until the dealer fails to help (like they did the first time around).

double check your ground at the top of the dashboard near the speaker and your VIN tag. That ground is the big one that controls your dashboard and can cause flaky connectivity like you're experiencing. You can also try to bang on the dash and see if you can rattle anything around to trigger the issue.

I will say to stick with the OEM battery. I had a new XS Power D4800 battery that was only a year old from my old 2014 silverado and it worked fine but I noticed when it was cold outside the voltage at crank when auto stop/start was working would drop down to 9v which is very low for a battery. The battery was also a AGM but seemed to have a weaker cold cranking amp rating than the GM OEM battery. The XS Power battery also was smaller than the GM battery for it's length and I noticed whenever the truck would crank during auto stop/start the radios screen would black out for a second then come back on. I just threw the OEM battery back in my truck and it's been just fine. I also reinstalled the 370A Mechman alternator I had from my last truck on my new silverado since it doesn't hurt to have it in there. One item to watch out for is the posts on the battery are different sizes. I want to say the positive terminal was smaller than the negative terminal. This made me have to use 2 sets of posts on the battery to make it work.

That must be something they changed in 2024. I know mine is a 2023 and has a few less features like your 2024 has. for example I don't have the rear seatbelt indicators like you have. I know the other newer models you can't bypass the data requirements like my father in law's new trax.

You need to use the hotspot on your phone. I have an android phone and setup an automation rule so that whenever my phone connects to the radio via bluetooth, it turns on my cell phones mobile hotspot connection and disables the always on display so it can charge my phone on the wireless charger at a faster rate. My radio is set to connect to my home wifi and cell phones hotspot connection whenever in range and it unlocks the entire radios features without paying onstar. i also have the speed limit sign on my dash that works with offline maps being updated.