kickass audio

Yes, remote start events will not happen with any check engine codes or the hood being open. I haven't tried it but some of the safety switches like your seat belt you can override with unplugging it from the connector. It's either detecting the hood being opened when both the wires are shorted together or open circuited.

The t-stat I ordered for my old 2014 had the same style box but had the GM geniune stickers on the outside of the box. There was no protection inside the box. I unfortunately broke the nipple for the reservoir on the top of the housing when it fell from the shelf in my garage but the guts on my t-stat are still new and can easily be swapped to another one.

You are right Mark. It was the app. I played with it tonight and RingCentral has a beta feature in the app to let you answer calls through your bluetooth headset. I turned that option on and it now shows the incoming call on my trucks radio to accept/reject. The funny thing is when I turned that option back off, my truck would instantly reject the calls which changed behavior from what it did before I opened the setting up in the app. Either way it only leaves me with the option to not answer teams chat messages while driving which those are pretty rare to do in the first place so I can live with that.

I'm not paying a single fee and mine plays the messages aloud in AA and the built in texting through the radio. I did have to go into my notification section of app permissions and enable notifications for Google assistant. Without that being turned on it stopped my truck from reading messages out to you. If you send a text to yourself, what buttons do you see both with AA running and with AA disconnected but having the phone paired with Bluetooth? Also is your truck on a wifi connection to consume data?

so update on the call quality issue. It seems to have gone away for some reason. I tried testing with android auto connected and disconnected on the radio and no longer have the crackling noise on the speakers in the truck for the person on the far end speaking. I also need to try and find a solution but I noticed that in my testing without android auto in use, if I receive a call on my work RingCentral line, my phone automatically answers the call for whatever reason but if I am connected with android auto, the RingCentral app will ring on my phones screen but never come through the radio for the call session. Who knows what that issue is because RingCentral is nothing but a problem for us at work. I'm really torn on if I even want to use android auto. So far the only bad things I have with using android auto is the voice assistant taking over on my phone and not the truck unless I press the button on the steering wheel, and with my RingCentral account not ringing when a call is incoming. The bad with not using android auto is the minute or 2 nagging alert if you have a data consuming app like google maps running when I start my truck it will tell you that you need an active data subscription but once my scheduled task on my phone kicks on my mobile hotspot and the truck connects to my hotspot, the message will clear itself off for you. I also have the problem of RingCentral calls auto answering and microsoft teams chats can't play through the radio while i'm driving like they do under android auto. Has anyone else experienced any resolution to their audio crackling noise on calls after the update? There haven't been any app updates under the play store or for the radio since I went in for the recall work but i've been playing with so many things on the radio i'm not sure if I fixed it myself or it just is something that comes and goes whenever it feels like it.

Did you turn your lights into manual mode instead of automatic? I know that playing with the light switch will stop things like your entry and exit lighting on the exterior. Try to reboot your radio by holding the end call button on your wheel for 10-15 seconds. Another thing to try is to open the maps app directly and see if when it's full size if it goes to dark mode in the night or stays in day mode. Dark mode will make the white background on the map change to a dark grey. I've found on my 2023 that sometimes when I get in at night, if I get in the truck too fast after unlocking the doors, the radio hasn't booted itself out of sleep mode fully so when I turn on the ignition the map and screen brightness is cranked up so it blinds you for a few seconds then it goes back to a darker brightness and then to dark mode for itself.

I feel your pain. The dealer who worked on my truck last year did a whole lot of nothing for 2 weeks with my truck and even had a hack job of mounting the transfer case control module back to the fender wall and used a new set of nuts and washers from the hardware store and couldn't even get the damn thing back on the middle of the studs so they just screwed it on with the washers twisted to hell. They also didn't resecure the wire harness at all so it was flopping around. At least with this dealer they sat on the truck for like a hour before it showed being in the bay but it was after they started their day so i'm sure they had some other issues before getting to my truck so I can't be mad at them for it. They did screw up on the shuttle service so I got duped on that but they at least did the update and i'm not doing too bad from it. I did notice another problem with my truck since the update. the "OK GOOGLE" command will stop working at random and it looks like a glitch with the google assistant. When I go into settings -> google assistant, the hey google phrase shows as turned off for a second then turns itself on when i'm in the settings menu. edit regarding the google assistant: I found since the update if I say "hey google" and i'm viewing android auto, it will use my phones google assistant which has no access to the features on my truck like navigation, hvac controls, etc. If I go to a settings screen or any other screen that isn't android auto, hey google will work with the radio's assistant. I tried to fiddle with resetting google assistant to default with no change. I also tried to turn off google assistant for android auto but there must be some block between AA and my radio that tells it to not run the built in assistant on the radio when AA is up. So for now i'm going to try keeping AA disabled and only pair my audio/calling with bluetooth and use my mobile hotspot on my phone to connect my truck to the internet and see how well it works. I know previously if I started the truck up with a data consuming app like google maps on the screen, it would yell at least 3 times on not having an active data plan before it would shut itself up after connecting to my hotspot connection.

I was thinking of getting a 12v adapter for the USB since you have plenty of power on the usb outlets but I don't really use much with a cigarette plug anymore. I only had it for emergency charging cell phones and for my dash cam. I will say I do love the new USB only plugs since they are high wattage and I can charge my macbook at 90w with the USB-C to C wire in my truck (not that I need to do that but it's nice knowing I can do that if needed). Do I wish there was a single cigarette outlet? yes but i'm fine with a good quality 12v to cigarette adapter if needed. When I was having power issues with my one dashcam I was really thinking of modifying the dash just under the AC controls to mount a marine grade cigarette outlet in the dash and wire it up to an accessory switched circuit with a relay for added power.

the only real need for the app in your truck directly is if you don't use AA or CP and have an active data plan in your truck and want to play music. The other need is if you use the google assistant and say to play a specific artist, it will only follow the command using the built in streaming app on the radio and not through your phone unless you press and hold the microphone button to use the assistant from AA or CP.

you can use both the app on your phone through android auto or apple carplay but the issue with youtube music is when you use the one on the built in infotainment system verses AA or over bluetooth audio.

that would be nice but it's all a surprise. I'm sure there are easter eggs too that only the developers know about.

so the recall work and my oil change was completed today. What a cluster**** at my dealer though. The shuttle service was cancelled on me yesterday so I had to have my boss take me back to work and back to the dealer to get my truck and they didn't see my appointment for the recall or oil change. The truck was dropped off at 10am and I picked it up at 1pm. Stalking my truck on the onstar app showed it wasn't in the service bay until around 12:15pm so unless they flashed the truck from the parking lot (highly unlikely) the flash took me 1 hour to run on my truck. The issues of crackling bluetooth call audio is present but not too bad for a problem but would be nice to get fixed and the google assistant sound was totally minimized to nothing when I picked up the truck. So far here are the problems I noticed from post update: 1.) Initially I had a issue where the :"hey google" command was not recognizing me when I first picked up my truck but I toggled the keyword phrase on and off in the radio to fix it and leave my truck off for a bit then restart the radio and it went back to normal. 2.) The google assistant voice level issue others reported was present after the update. There is a easy fix though, just press the voice assistant button on your wheel and tell it to do something like text a friend and when you know it's supposed to be talking back to you, raise the volume on your radio as the assistant is talking. Repeat this step until the voice sound is maxed out. 3.) The bluetooth audio crackling sound when you're on a call is a new problem. I fiddled with the bluetooth version settings in the developer mode area on the radio but it made no difference. I only had 1 call so far and the call I was on did not have HD audio, just your basic phone call quality. I will test it with a HD audio call to see if it makes it worse or better but just know the issue is there on mine unless I find a fix for it. I also made another call to another cell phone number and had the crackling sound come and go whenever the caller on the far side was talking to me. I called siriusXM and it did not crackle on that call at all. 4.) Not necessarily a con but I went into the play store and had a update for the google play store system as a whole. Just keep an eye on that for yourself. The pros from the update: 1.) skipping songs on my USB 3.0 attached solid state hard drive is a hell of a lot faster than before. 2.) navigating through the radio menus is also a lot faster than ever before. I previously went into the developer settings and set the animation to .5x to try and speed up the unnecessary visual delays but it was still slow. 3.) I didn't need to sign back into my google account or pair my phone back up. All my settings remained intact with the new firmware upgrade. 4.) I don't know if it worked on the old version of the radio's OS but I reinstalled youtube music and it at least plays boring podcasts without the use of a membership though the radio but again it's been months since I poked in there because i'm not paying a subscription when I just use android auto when I want to for playing youtube music (and skipping the ads with the next track button on the wheel lol). 5.) Prior to the update, just for pure laziness and goofing around, I could never get the google assistant to let me use the voice command to put my vents to the floor or the upper level. I just tested it and if I issue the command "set vents to upper" it will turn on the upper vents that face you, and if I say "set vents to lower" it will turn on the floor vents. I previously was only able to tell it to use auto, full defrost (not max though, still can't figure out that command if it's even supported), rear defroster, fan speed and temp control.

I will keep everyone posted. I'm going in tomorrow for a oil change (doing that while still under warranty then will do them myself at home) and to have the recall work performed.

My 2014 had the OEM remote start and it worked at the same temp as my 2023 does but I don't recall the OEM starter turning on the defrosters, I know it turned on the heated seat which were useless as ever in that truck, they were barely warm, my 23 will roast your buns on it lol. I hooked up an aftermarket remote start on my 2014 as I wasn't happy with the crap range on the OEM remote and I wired in the defroster circuit to make it turn on automatically or manually with the remote if I wanted it to.

if yours is a plastic rattle sound I fixed it on both my front doors. The passenger door was by far the worst at mid to high frequencies where I could hear the door rattling. Playing the same song on repeat I sat in the passenger seat and played with the door and found that pushing slightly on the top right corner of the speaker grille I was able to stop the rattling noise. I first tried to loosen up the pair of screws that are inside the grab area of the door by the arm rest and push the door in as far as it could go and screw it back down but it didn't help. I removed the door panel and tightened all the screws that you see from the inside area of the door but it didn't help. I then noticed the plastic bubbles the factory uses to secure each layer of plastic in the door had a few that were loose. Those bumps look like half of a M&M or skittle and I was able to see the play in each one of those nubs by pushing and pulling on the panel from the opposite side. Once I found each one that was loose I put some CA glue (super glue will do) on the spot and sprayed a little bit of acetone to accelerate the cure time and reinstalled the panel with no more rattling. My drivers door was a similar sound with plastic rattling but I pinpointed the noise to the top left corner of the door panel closest to the plunger that goes up and down to show your door lock status. Slightly pushing on that area stopped the rattle. I performed the same fix of locating every loose plastic weld bump on the inner part of the door panel and my problems have been fixed for 2 weeks now. My only other rattle noise is in the dashboard where the front defroster cover is rattling against the windshield. I didn't get to mess with that this year but will likely do it next summer since I don't like playing with plastics when it's cool out.

Freezing is 32 degrees and I know it was right around that point where my mirrors would kick on. Lately it's been warm and cool to make a good amount of dew on the outside but if I start the truck my vents are in their default defrost state and the heated seats and wheel are automatically on but the mirrors and rear glass never kick on until I get in and turn them on. If you wanted to try it, you can put a ice cube on the little bubble under your passenger mirror which is supposed to be the exterior temperature sensor and see if you can get it cold enough then try to remote start the truck and see if the defrosters will kick the circuit on for you.

is it actually cold enough for the defrosters to kick on? My wheel and seats have been kicking on but never my mirrors or back window yet, it must be lower than 40 degrees or something like that to get it to automatically kick on.

If your signature is right then yours is not affected. You have a 2015 so it's not the same platform at all. If you have a newer edition then you can check for the update by going into the settings>updates screen and see what it shows for android version. If it's at 10 then you didn't get updated but if it's at 12 they got to you for the update.

I think it was but who knows the full details. I know my father in law has a new trax and it only runs android auto with no built in apps like my Silverado so it's definitely coming.

The crackling sound was reported by others online about a effect from the recall update being installed. The recall also has had people mention that the update causes voice prompts to be at a lower volume than normal so it's harder to hear. It wouldn't be something from GM's developer teams if it wasn't for a botched update. They did lay off a bunch of software developers a while back as it is.

As mentioned you don't need additive for the fluid. I will say I had a hard time finding the correct viscosity for the diffs that didn't have LS additive added to it from the factory. I put 75w-90 into both the front and rear diffs on my old 2014 and it worked just fine. I ran it with that fluid in it for 3 years and had no problems with chatter and the locker worked the same as it did from when I bought the truck used. I could be wrong but I don't see any problem using fluid with the additive on a diff that doesn't require it. It's if you use normal fluid on a limited slip diff that you have a big problem.

Yes that's correct. It's like if you have a 12.0 version as the base and then a hotfix comes out, it would be something like 12.1 for example.

It is a rolled out update from what I read on a GM service bulletin that was shared online about it. They are trying to control how many people hit up the dealership for the recall at once time is my guess. Especially with how long it takes to run the recall the last thing they want is to have every dealer across the world hitting GM up for the same update and making it take longer than they have on the book for timeframe.

Yes there is, go to vehicle status and it's under update. It's hidden. The easy way to see if you have the new update is look at your radio update screen, if it still shows android version 10 then you're on the old version. Android 12 is the new one part of the new feature update from what i've been finding. I'm a few weeks out before mine gets serviced at the dealer.

I think my dads old 97 tahoe had a ratcheting style. I only noticed it one time in the past. If it wasn't for how the rods that go down the tube and engage with the hoist for your spare are setup with a male end that goes into the small square socket of the wrench i'd say you could get an adapter for a impact gun and just spin it off with that. Maybe if you wanted, get a 12 point socket that fits the end of the stick and buy your own ratcheting wrench and use that if you wanted. Just be careful when you raise up the spare with the 12 point socket on the end of the extension sticks, you are barely catching the edge of the rod and you don't need to warp the stick. I'd use the wrench just to get it up and down but use the OEM handle just to break the line loose or snug it up the last little bit when raising/lowering the spare. I personally have a 1/2" breaker bar in my truck that is a lot better to manage for breaking the lugs loose than the factory wrench. It's not a ratcheting style but it is perfect for me and i'm happy with it. A cheap harbor freight ratcheting wrench would work great and I think a 12 point socket for the rod and a normal 6 point socket for the lugs would be your best solution.