kickass audio

thank you! I've always wondered when it required a subscription or if it was all included. I know my google play store updates and offline map downloads all require wifi to work but I download the bulk of my stuff on my home network and use my mobile hotspot for things like traffic information on the built in maps app.

Since you have received the OTA, do you still have an active onstar subscription or did you get it updated via your home WiFi? I've been trying to figure that one out. It claims it can update over WiFi but I only had one OTA since I bought the truck over a year and a half ago and it was when I had an active onstar subscription. The only onstar service I still have active is the remote feature with the app which isn't really used often by me.

yours is on android 12 and has the Y175 version I was demanding the dealer to install but they didn't do ****** with it. So far the dealer said they will be ordering a new radio module and once it comes in they will install it and program it in hopes it fixes the issue. Still such a waste of hardware when it just needs a damn reflash to the same build number you have.

I just love my shittyrado. I went to my dealer this morning to have them attempt and update the radio from the Y172 update they installed as part of the recall in the fall and put me on at least Y175 but they did nothing to my truck. The build numbers did not change at all and there is no history of the update under previous updates when looking at the system update page on the radio. The dealer service manager is thinking we need to replace the radio module to fix the issue but will confirm that with GM and the tech. I also opened a case with GM customer service about this issue. From past issues with the radio, anytime a update was applied to the radio whether OTA or at the dealership, it will always result in a new build number in the about screen on the radio, plus it will also show the .mdf (I believe that was the extension) file and the date it was installed on the radio when you go to settings->updates->previous updates. Did anyone who has the bluetooth audio crackling issue get your dealership to fix the issue by simply updating your radio to Y175 version firmware? Also, did they give you any specific bulletin number detailing the Y175 firmware being required?

also your part of locking the truck while leaving it run on ignition is possible. Unfortunately you cannot hit the outside button on the handle or press/press & hold the lock button inside the door to get it to lock. You need to pull the remote out and press the lock button on the remote to secure the truck while it continues to run the engine at idle. Your dash will complain about the missing key but it will go away when you return inside with the fob. The one item I did not test but i'm thinking it won't make a difference, if you go in the radio and disable the anti lockout feature, would it let you press the lock button on the door and secure the truck without needing to press the button on your remote. When you return to the truck you can keep the remote in your pocket and just push the unlock button on the door handle to open the truck back up though.

It means pulse width modulation.

I have a similar problem and I have Verizon but it has nothing to do with the carrier. My problem is I use google messenger and with RCS chat enabled, I will receive a text message while driving and my radio will let me play it back but if I do not send a reply to that message, my cell phone will only show the message in the notification screen and not in google messenger. If I disable RCS chat there is no problem with passing messages between the phone and truck. I do not use android auto anymore and just have my phone connected to my radio and use the built in maps with my phone on mobile hotspot so I cannot attest if this issue is also present with android auto.

Did anyone get lucky and have the Y175 update come down through an OTA patch after having the dealer install the Y172 update? My radio is running on Y172 and still glitches every now and then where I need to reboot the radio a few times to get rid of the issue. My problem has been the USB audio will quit sometimes and never come back until I reboot the radio, the built in google maps app will freeze, my phones connection whether through bluetooth only or the full android auto will connect then drop and I will need to either reboot the radio or remove my phone from the radio and re-add it as a new device again to get it back to normal. Definitely more bugs than I had before updating the thing. Plus I've studied the android automotive OS update notes at https://source.android.com/docs/security/bulletin/aaos and there is a update for January 2025 security patches but no news or update offered through OTA checks. I'm just not sure if the OTA updates will even come to me since i'm not paying for onstar, even though the truck claims the ability to update via WiFi which I am always connected to in the driveway. And being the recall is marked as completed with the dealer installing the buggy Y172 firmware I doubt they will cover going to Y175 but I am under bumper to bumper still.

I don't think there's a real way to stop it. I was lucky one time where I opened the tailgate and didn't let it finish opening all the way and pulled it shut as it was still opening. This caused the tailgate to lock itself out and I couldn't get the bastard open until I went back out to my truck a half hour later. When it locked out, it would not pulse the locks to unlock the tailgate but the parking lights would flash and the door speakers would chime like normal for an unlocked tailgate but it wouldn't budge. With that knowledge and experience I had, I think if you defeat the motor you would likely not be able to just remove the connector going to the motor as I would imagine it would still cause you to not be able to release the lock on each side of the tailgate. Your only options I believe are to push the button to get it to start opening and press it again to stop the motion and let it go free range, don't open it up too far because the tilt sensor would see you're opening/closing it and begin engaging the motor again. Or you could open the tailgate and as it's opening, pull up on it to make resistance and it will give an error beep at the tailgate but it would stop the motion and as long as you don't tilt the tailgate too much the tilt sensor will not engage and tell it to open/close further again. My experience is if you force the tailgate, it thinks something is in the way and it stops the motor in that direction. Example, you're opening it and you pull the tailgate upward like you're closing it, it will stop it from trying to re-engage the opening sequence until you latch the tailgate shut again BUT it will let you tilt it up and it will engage the motor to shut it.

try checking for voltage first at the wire that goes to the heating element for the back and bottom cushion. On level 3 (high) it should be around 12V at the 2 wires that go to the seat heater element. I had my 2014 bottom cushion go bad and crack an element because I sit with my wallet in my pocket and it burned out in that area but the seat would once in awhile get just a tiny bit of warmth on the bottom cushion and would be warm for the back rest. My 2024 is so much better and can roast you when it's on high compared to my 2014, even after I replaced the bottom element on my 2014 seat.

If you have long enough of a cord you can do like I did with my dash cam where I have it plugged into the USB port on the dash and snuck the cable between where the bottom area of the dash is just below the HVAC controls and the top right edge of the center console. I then routed the cable behind the glovebox in the dash (had to remove the right panel on the center console to help feed the USB down and through the area and I used a flexible grabbing tool to push it through) and routed it up through the A pillar and across the windshield at the top and then have the cable coming out the plastic shroud around the forward facing collision avoidance camera. Are you mounting your phone down on the dash or are you considering mounting it up by your rearview mirror?

you can buy a usb to 12v adapter to convert and give you a cigarette plug if that works for your equipment. I personally don't use one but they do exist on amazon. My dash cam is wired into the truck with the usb port but I have a usb data blocker inline with the cable as my old dash cam tried to pass data through the USB along with power and my radio tried to read from it and it would confuse the radio and crash my dash cam out haha.

totally normal. all that you have happening is your speed limit indicator was working realtime from onstars network (AT&T) and when you cancelled onstar you are only getting speed limit updates from your offline map on the truck. keep your offline maps updated through your home WiFi or use mobile hotspot on your phone to pair your truck up to it and keep it running without paying for onstar.

Mine works great except for removing humidity where the front facing camera sits above the mirror. When it's warm and gets very cool overnight I've had a haze on the glass that is on the inside of the windshield but only in the area where the forward collision avoidance camera is mounted and it will make the annoying as hell error of forward collision unavailable come on and off while it's removing the moisture. I do have my auto fan speed limit set to max in the radio's settings so you can try that. I 99.9% of the time keep my vents on auto at 72 degrees and notice that the air blowing out of the defroster vents is stronger than the floor vents and when it's nice and warm inside the truck, it will change my vents to put a little bit of air out of the face vents and still keep airflow out of the defrost vents on the dash and to the side windows. I can compare the system to my old 2014 and it's the same setup in my opinion except the 2023 has taller defrost vents that point to the front door windows than my 2014 had. If I wear my jacket and i'm very hot inside it or am sweating, it will make my windows steam up a bit but it only gets half of my front door windows to steam up and never affects me seeing out the mirrors and the windshield is nice and clear.

Something I just noticed and did not have a problem before the update. When someone texts me and i'm in the truck, I will receive the notification prompt and if I do not reply to the text, it is not on my phone at all aside from the notification window. For example, John Doe texts me "how is your truck since the update" while i'm driving, the radio will pop to indicate receiving a text but if I do not reply to it from my truck, my cell phone itself only shows that message in the notification drop down. i am running a samsung galaxy s21 ultra with google messenger as my messaging app. I also noticed this behavior is only present for people who are sending RCS chats with me. If it's a standard non-rcs message it will work just fine.

thank you! The battery was holding great voltage at rest, never lower than 12.7V, with the engine running and being cold outside the high output alternator would maintain a voltage around 15.2-15.6v. The only voltage issue I noticed is when the truck would shut the engine off with auto stop enabled and my voltage would get to 11.9v with the engine off and would drop to 8.6V for a millisecond when it would crank the engine to get me going again then would go back to 14.8-15.6v of power.

I am also with you on the throttle body being cleaned. I've had a gummed up throttle blade on a friends truck that made it idle like crap and almost act like it was close to stalling itself out. Do you have a higher end scan tool to check the misfire count on each cylinder? Maybe that can help you track it down to a specific side of the engine or the cylinder that is acting up and maybe you have bad plug wires or a bad ignition coil that is acting up at idle. With how you mention it seems to have run better with new plugs you might also have 1 or more failing ignition coils from having worn out plugs that stress out the coil and make it work harder and can cause it to fail.

Mine is only a 2023 but so far only has one very tiny spot of surface rust on the passenger inner fender well. I sprayed cavity wax inside the area between the box and the fender by pulling the oval plastic plugs inside the bed and inserting the spray wand for my 3M cavity wax in there and moving it back and forth to evenly spray the cavity. I also take my truck to rustkote for being sprayed. They spray the underside, bottoms of the doors, inside the rockers, in the bottom of the tailgate. So far there is no sign of surface rust but I also take the fiber wheel well liners out in the spring and thoroughly wash and wax inside the wheel wells then put the wheel well liners back on the truck. I also every 2-3 weeks will wash my rims out with a wheel woolie and the left over spray soap I spray the bottom lip of the bedside fenders and use a small soft bristle brush to clean out the dirt and salt. I'm hoping to make my truck last longer than my old 2014 that started to rot out in the rocker on the passenger side towards the rear door and had rust bubbling on the fenders of the bedside. That truck wasn't owned by me for 3 years since it was a lease before I bought it, my 2023 has been mine since a few months after production since it was a loaner used in the summer from the dealership before I bought it. I hope that because of this and my rigorous maintenance it might last me longer before the wonderful new york state saltbelt kills it.

Does anyone have the exact parameter range for the P0562 code? What voltage range is acceptable?

5.3L 10 speed

I went to hop in my truck this afternoon and immediately on the Drivers Information Center it read the message "Service Transmission Now, unable to shift soon" after I started it up. The truck let me move forward and back in the parking lot just fine and I immediately restarted the truck and the message came back on the screen. When I got home which is about a 20 minute drive, I shut the truck down and immediately restarted it and the message was no longer displayed at startup. I pulled my OBD2 reader and it gave the code P0562 - Powertrain System Voltage Low as a pending fault. I unfortunately only have a basic OBD2 adapter through the torque app so I can't check body codes and things of the such. I let the truck sit for about an hour in the driveway and restarted it a few times with no error on the drivers instrument cluster but this time the P0562 code was listed as active through the torque app. Not once did a check engine light come on nor did I have any difference in shift pattern on my truck. Leading up to this I put my truck into 4WD HI mode (I only have a single speed transfer case) on my way into work since it was snowy and a bit icy on the streets and had no issue on my drive in. I forgot to switch the truck back to 2WD mode when I shut it down and worked my shift. When I came back out it was still in 4WD HI and gave that error about not being able to shift soon. Has anyone had a similar experience? I found a service bulletin https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10212919-0001.pdf for the 2022 that indicates a potential rub on the wire harness between the PCM wires that run along the driver side of the engine just above the valve cover. I visually looked at them and don't see anything at quick glance that looks worn and it was totally dry in the engine bay. I did have service done a year ago where the data line between the PCM and the transfercase control module was giving high resistance and needed to be soldered and taped back up but had no issues all year with it. I also have a upgraded alternator and brand new battery that's only a few months old so power issues from that are not a concern.

I wouldn't recommend using a inverter for long outages like you experienced. As others have mentioned converting DC to AC causes power loss and running your truck at idle to try and run the inverter and not kill the battery on your truck would likely cost you more money in fuel let alone wear and tear on your truck for excessive idling. Plus the other problem is at idle your alternator isn't working that much to output it's capability of amperage so you will be drawing more than the alternator can keep up and can run the battery down. For me in the north east I have 2 generators. I have a portable 6200 watt generator (it's heavy as hell so it's not portable unless you have another person to help you get it in and out of the bed or use ramps) and converted it to bolt on a converter that lets me hook up to the natural gas feed on my house to fuel the generator so I don't need to worry about running out of gasoline or having the gas spoil from lack of use. My other generator is a 7000 watt and it's a standby generator I picked up for free that runs off natural gas but i do have a carburetor from a old lawn tractor since it's the same engine that lets me run off gasoline if I so wanted to. My truck has a 370 amp alternator on it now and a upgraded AGM battery but I still wouldn't run the inverter for a long time and the engine guzzles gas so bad at idle that it would cost me more than natural gas on my generator for less power output for my fridge, furnace, etc. Also the inverter is a tiny bit undersized for running a fridge. Your furnace if it's high efficiency won't be that bad for electric consumption but that fridge will draw a ton when it first kicks on and will still be about 3/4 of your capacity for the inverter and it will run very hot with that big of a load on it. If I were in your shoes, this is what I would do. 1.) If you don't lose natural gas or if you have a large supply of propane in your house; get a generator that either comes from the factory with the ability to run off natural gas/propane or get a generator that you can bolt on before the carburetor on your generator (lookup century fuel products conversion kits). If you're handy you can handle bolting the conversion kit on and at the worst might need to cut and modify the brace for the generator set to accommodate for the extra length on the intake train of the engine. You can also wire up a hookup outside your house to plug the generator in with a single wire and install a generator interlock on your panel so you can backfeed the entire house (with limiting your current consumption of course) and not kill a lineman working in the field. 2.) If you just want periodic protection you can use the inverter but be prepared to waste a ton of gas in your tank and risk running low on fuel in the event you need to evacuate yourselves. Also make sure you keep an eye on the temperature of the alternator since it doesn't have that much airflow at idle to cool itself down from heavy loads and watch your voltage to make sure you're not overdrawing the alternators output. The big downside to the truck is your alternator and the smart charging system, you would want to press the tow/haul button to force the trucks charging to maintain 14V of power. 3.) You can explore battery backups but they cost at least double or triple the cost of a generator of the same size but you can recharge them and move them around the house if you wanted to and you can get a solar panel to help recharge the batteries when you're giving it a break.

very nice work and clean install! I am running the factory bose radio and it's good enough to not bother with aftermarket speakers but I did replace the useless speakers in the rear door with the leftover 6.75" speakers I had from my 2014 silverado. I ran a similar path on the fuse panel for my 1/0 gauge wire that feeds from my 370A mechman alternator but I didn't fuse it and I added the 1/0 gauge ground wire from the alternator to my negative battery load sensor at the battery and it works fine. The voltage initially would fluctuate since this alternator can work at a higher rate to recover the voltage so initially my voltage would bounce up and down a ton but it's since stabilized and rarely goes to float at 12.5v of power. My only mistake is I accidentally snapped one of the little retaining tabs that holds the battery fuse panel cover down but it works fine and if worse comes to worse i'll look at a new cover from a junkyard or something but it's not a concern at all for me.

The funny thing with the bottom row being so far off like GM is known for, you can tell your truck "ok google, how much fuel do I have" and it will give you the OBD2 percentage and will also read the estimated range before empty too. I've never understood why GM sucks at getting an accurate fuel level on the cluster. I understand filtering the data unlike the old GM trucks like my fathers 97 tahoe where you could rock the truck and make the fuel level bounce around but it should be close to accurate not this far off.

My audio had issues pre and post update where it mutes everything for a second and comes back on regardless of the source. The only thing I could see is whenever an app from google updates it will make the amp cut out and back on but i haven't had any apps update since the new radio update was installed. I also noticed it in the past when the offline map built into the radio restarts itself and isn't running on just data. I just take it for what it is as it's not too long of the cut out period.