Jsdirt

Yeah, that definitely helped. Those guys don't get paid much to do lengthy diagnostics. They'll normally grab a part off the shelf, or off a vehicle on the lot and try it out - if it works, they install it, bill it, ship it. GM not only cuts corners on their vehicles, but they screw their techs as well.

9.9 out of 10 dealerships are parts changers. They got lucky this time.

Yeah I had that same thought back in '08 the first time I dug into a 4L60E in a '00 Jimmy that had a bad 1-2 shift solenoid (among 100 other problems). Guess they use better wiring inside there than they do outside. Or, the new tranny fluid they use has dielectric properties.

"Substrate" in the automotive world is a strange term. It's stuff like this that makes me firmly believe that automakers are actively attempting (and succeeding) in sabotaging DIY repair attempts with confusing terminology, and illogical part design, location, and assembly. I sure wish I stockpiled vehicles from the 30's to 1972, when I was younger ... Not surprised with the harness - always either a bad sensor, or bad connection. Bad connections & broken wires account for a large percentage of failures up here. They've even managed to cheap out on wiring by using tiny wire gauges, and substandard copper.

Your guess is as good as mine. These days, automakers make NOTHING easy, so I would doubt it. What I would do is go to an OE parts site, and check the part numbers of those components between both years. If any of the part numbers are different, they probably won't work together, and won't have the correct connectors.

Wow, I was WAY off! Still no slouch, though. Must be a blast on the street.

Yeah, same trans.. I'm not surprised at all. Every problem I've had with this truck since day 1 has been due to GM cheaping out on parts. Every single part of my truck is low-bidder GARBAGE. I'm actually surprised it made it to 103k, to be honest. You still have that GMT-800 in your signature? Hang onto that, if so! Those trucks regularly make it well over 200k without major driveline issues. From '07 up with the GMT-900, the quality of EVERYTHING goes several notches downward. I would imagine the newer models are even worse than this now. The earlier GMT-400 was one of the most reliable platforms GM has ever built. I see those (the ones that survived the road salt baths, anyway) well over 300k, and still driving. The drivelines on those were very under-stressed and well engineered, and built. I changed the OE universal joints after they failed on my '94 K1500 at 222k miles! Original ball joints and hub bearings also made it deep into the 200k range. Sold that truck with 266k on it. Some teenager bought it, and I saw it around that town for 2 years afterwards. Those days are long gone now ... Engines used to be off-limits to the cheapout game, but not anymore. Look at all the 2011 -up Equinoxes (and others) getting parted out due to blown engines already. My 5.3 VIN "0" engine has the AFM crap top end in it, that's bound to fail any day now. Only reason it's still running is because I've had a Range device plugged into the DLC for the past 30k+ miles. That has kept those junk lifters alive. That still leaves the walking #2 cam bearing, cheap piston rings that break, the poorly engineered .06 cent o-ring that fails in the oil pump, the garbage valve springs that break, and the leak-prone VLOM, among other crappy parts. I could rant all day long about this stuff. I just put Bilstein shocks and struts in a '13 Ram 1500 - took me a day and a half!! Rusted out strut bolts, and piss-poor engineered top shock nut location on those slowed me WAY down. I had to chop my grandfather's old SK angled box-end 13/16" wrench to hold that top nut from spinning. Can't get a socket in there, since the frame weld angles the socket,\ upward, so you'll strip it (God help you if that happens - you'd have to remove the bed to repair it!!). Can't get a normal box-end wrench in, since it's 4" at the larger end from the center of the bolt to the bottom of the bed! Even less room straight up and down. Plus, the nut is recessed inside a steel box reinforcement. A stubby might work, if it's short enough. NIGHTMARE!!

All my money is tied up in my Silverado, yet again! Lost 3rd and 4th in the transmission at 103k miles. 6k miles after the rear differential sheared a few teeth off the spiders, and was all worn out and sloppy at just 97k. Instead of buying this toilet, I'd have been MUCH better off spending $30-large on an El Camino like that, no question about it. There was a Ranchero around here that was on a truck frame. It was a terrible job, though - I remember seeing it sit on this car dealer's lot for YEARS. It was hideous. They built their own frame for it. It resembled construction staging, only using angle iron, LOL. I saw that thing recently in someone's driveway in the city, so it's still out there. Never saw it on the road, though.

That tire wrinkle and wheelie tells me high 8's to low 9's, I would bet.

I'd get a second opinion. Every time I've seen a cooling fan stuck on high, there was a communication fault with one or more modules, or a faulty ECM.

Thanks, David. Yeah, hopefully you're still covered.

Wow, yeah, these newfangled trannys with 6+ speeds do all kinds of weird things I hear. I've only ridden in an 8-speed FCA product. The shifts were so mushy you couldn't tell they were happening - I had to watch the tach. Those should be a real barrel of fun at rebuild time. I'm betting it will be cheaper to scrap the whole unit and buy another.

It's all greek to me. Disconnect the sensor and look at what the scan tool is reading. Then, connect a INCANDESCENT (NOT LED) test light across the pins, shorting them together though the light. If the scan tool now reads some elevated temp in the upper 2- 300° range, then the wiring and the gauge is good. Just be aware this still doesn't rule out a loose pin fitment issue in the connector, or corrosion there. If the pins feel like they're gripping tight, and you're sure you have a good connection, replace the sensor.

A -40° reading on the scan tool is a dead ringer for an open circuit ( if I don't have that backwards ... ). Bad sensor, open in the wiring, or poor pin fitment / bad connection in the connector.

If it was still pulling, non issue like Cameron said. You must've been in 2nd gear for a while there.