Jsdirt

That wouldn't shock me - a tire pressure sensor kicking off Stabilitrack. Seems any issue no matter how small will set that message off in the DIC. Thanks for your service Brett, and wise choice to steer clear of any dealers. If you can't get this problem repaired yourself, finding a private, non-dealer, non-chain repair shop is your best bet - preferably one that has great reviews when it comes to electrical diagnosis. In the long run, it would be close to 80% cheaper than the multiple trips back to the dealer for the same problem, at super-inflated pricing.

Yeah, that sucks. Very familiar with the aggravation! If that doesn't work out, you could try buying an OE one, or AC Delco on RockAuto - will be cheaper than any dealer, and might be the fix (at least until that one does the same thing down the road a bit). Nice! Yeah I love this bike. I did ALOT of work to it - it's putting out at least double the power it did stock. It's alot of fun. SIMPLE, too! No stupid electronics to break or get buggy. Still has the OE dual-points ignition, and the alternator with brushes. I did upgrade the regulator and rectifier to a combined modern unit. That's the only electronic thing it has, but it was hand built by a retired guy in his shop out in OR somewhere. Hasn't given me any grief in 10 years so far.

Yep, that's a friggin strange one right there! Something GM has engineered in that I'm not familiar with. I'll keep digging - not having much luck finding a solution - everyone wants money for the answers (And guess where that comes from? GM of course! Crap rolls downhill, as they say ...). EDIT: Just found something that said to pull over and do exactly what you did - if it now rolls free with the vacuum line disconnected, you need a new booster. Ain't that grand? $50-LARGE for a truck isn't enough - they have to build cheap crap poorly engineered parts that fail long before they're supposed to ... then, never fix the problem - just keep selling parts! These people should be in jail ...

Now that I've had time to reread everything, I don't think the booster is the issue. Is it all 4 brakes , or just the fronts? There's a few things that will cause the brakes to start applying themselves (dragging) (will get progressively worse with heat). Brake hoses can fail internally, and act like one-way check valves. Fluid will enter the caliper, but won't return to the master (or will very slowly). Considering the quality control of that model year, and the mileage, there is a good chance of this being the issue. A faulty proportioning valve can do this too. If memory serves correctly, I thought I read of the newer trucks ABS units failing internally and causing this issue - this is another possibility. Also read of the newer truck's boosters causing this, but I don't see how that's possible. Knowing GM, they reengineered something to make it cheaper (for THEM), so this is the way they may fail now. Best thing to do is drive around staying near where you'll be working on the truck. When the brakes start to drag, feel which discs/drums are warm. If the fronts, get the front in the air on jack stands - verify that the wheels are hard to turn by hand. Crack a bleeder and see if you can now spin the wheel - if you can, it's the brake hose. If not, you may have a bad caliper, bad master, or something else preventing the master from retracting properly (bad check valve in ABS unit, or ???).

I beg to differ there. 5 warranty brake jobs, lower ball joints, upper ball joints, oil leaks, oil burning, and squeaks and rattles galore, all before 55k miles on mine. New differential at 97k. I'm sure the engine and tranny are right around the corner. We've all got bets placed on which will be first. Got a 50/50 chance on either. It's the first new vehicle I've ever bought in my life - cost SEVEN times what my previous purchase cost me - so I can assure you, it's the best maintained vehicle on the planet. 100% synthetics front to back by 2k miles on the engine, and 40k miles in the driveline. Amsoil, too - no cheap stuff here.

That's why I always tell people to run a halogen lamp with the heater wires to see if it has the capability, and do a continuity check of the sensor itself. 9 times out of 10, people get lucky winging a sensor at it, so they get on the net and say, "It needs an o2" (also a running joke in repair circles) any time the money light is on. You either have a wiring, connection (up at the computer, or at any splices or junctions that may be present), or an actual computer problem regarding the sensor code. Same exact thing could be true of the injector. They may be related - a computer ground that only has 50% of it's capacity and is trying to run at 100% is going to cause all kinds of strange problems. There's a reason private shops get over $70 an hour - this stuff takes ALOT of time to track down, and the more money you have invested in diagnostic equipment, the faster you can find things (sometimes). In most cases 3/4 of the diagnostics charge goes to research - once you figure out how the system works and what the actual problem is, it could be a 5 minute fix.

If the rear seal of the master is leaking brake fluid, that'll destroy a booster diaphragm pretty quick. Only other cause would be the great 21st Century parts cheapout that's been plaguing auto techs for nearly 10 years now. Ahh, reread and noticed this isn't a typical failure. Why am I not shocked? I have heard of this only with the 900 series trucks and newer - I'll get back to you on that - I have to do some digging ...

I still own a 900 - biggest POS I've ever owned. Haven't even hit 99k miles yet, and I've already got a new differential in it, and the engine has been an oil burner for almost 50k miles so far. I also owned a '00 Jimmy - tied for the biggest POS ever owned. That one got parted out over 11 years then sent to the crusher this summer. Good riddance. From what I've been hearing, the new ones are worse as far as failures that used to never happen on older stuff. Same patterns. GM will NEVER change.

Misfire at idle that goes away with throttle is a dead ringer for a vacuum leak. Probably intake gaskets, but could be a deteriorated hose somewhere, too. I use a spray bottle full of water, or a water bottle with a hole punched in the cap in a pinch, and hose down all the gasket surfaces one at a time, ENGINE COLD (leaks will be worse then, if they're intake leaks). If the leak is big enough, you'll hear the water getting sucked in. I do one section at a time, listening. Also have your scan tool up with your short and long term fuel trims in graph form - if you see the trims dive back towards zero, you're on to the leak. Spray all the vacuum hoses as well - it'll find those, too. Since the misfires swapped sides with the o2 swap, maybe its not a vacuum leak. Strange one here. You could probably be safe in replacing that o2, so long as the heater wires will light a halogen bulb (should blink at varying brightness, since it's a duty-cycle controlled circuit). Not sure if the o2 and injector codes are effects rather than causes, since they're circuit codes, but that's always a possibility. I'd focus on the misfires first, then go to the o2 next. Did the new injectors get rid of the 0200?

Thanks for the follow up!

You haven't seen city unions, then. https://www.deseret.com/2011/3/4/20177026/civility-flies-out-the-window-as-union-thugs-resort-to-violence Not all of them are like this, but most of the big ones are, at least out here in the Northeast. Beacon Hill is in bed with half of them! The "union loophole", where unions have no limit on political donations, while businesses can only donate $500 is a glaring example of whose side this state's (MA) government is on. Birds of a feather ... There should be 100 more stories like these, but we all know who's side Google is on - so they keep that info suppressed. That needs to change REAL soon.

That's strange. My Autel goes through the whole procedure step by step.

Once you start the procedure, the scan tool will tell you what to do next. They walk you right through it.

That may be because they sell alot more than the Colorado. I'm seeing complete junk across all brands and models, some worse, some better ... but collectively all crap compared to the old days ... and even just 13 model years ago.

No problem - good luck on the build. Post your progress on the site here, and throw a link in this thread so we can all subscribe to it. Just want to say, If you're going for forced induction, the lower end need to be built differently than for a naturally aspirated engine. For example, you'd want to lower the compression with dished pistons rather than increase it with domed pistons. Can't have 12:1 compression with forced induction, unless you want to make scrap real fast. I think you could hit 600 and keep it naturally aspirated with the right mods. My buddy has a 7 liter (427) 2011 Camaro, supercharged, that's putting 900HP right to the rear wheels. Cost him $12,000 JUST for the FUEL system on that alone - 3 fuel pumps and lines over 1/2" in diameter! I can't even tell you how much money he's got into this thing. Everything from the engine to the differential & axles had to be beefed up to handle the amount of torque this thing lays down (over 700 ft. lbs. from 3-grand to redline - peaks at well over 800 ft. lbs.). He's blown the OE engine, tranny, differential, and twisted the OE axles like a pretzel. Cost him a FORTUNE when all was said and done. Horsepower these days is only limited by what's in your wallet.