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Jsdirt

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Jsdirt last won the day on July 14

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About Jsdirt

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    Senior Enthusiast
  • Birthday 12/01/2013

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  • Location
    MA (where freedom began ... & now goes to die)
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2007 Silverado Z71 extended, 4x4, 5.3 LMG, 3.73, LT2 - '93 Volvo 940 - '86 Mercury Grand Marquis - '74 Yamaha RD350

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  1. So you have a P0301? Yes, that's a cylinder 1 misfire. The other 2 are EVAP codes. Not a problem unless that vent is sucking air in and leaning out the mixture when the purge valve opens. Find and fix that misfire, and you'll be good. Doesn't have to be a water bottle - just get water onto the gasket surface. But skip that for now since you've got a specific cylinder with a miss. Troubleshoot that first.
  2. Blinking light means it's a catalytic-converter-melting misfire. I wouldn't drive it if at all possible until you get this figured out, unless you live where they don't do emission testing - in that case it won't matter. If the cat melts, just punch it out and move on. The way you describe this sounds like an intake manifold leak. Under part-throttle cruise when vacuum is highest is when they'll leak the most. Common cause for a P0300 random misfire code. You can check for that by using a soda or water bottle, punch a small hole in the cap, and squirt water onto the gasket mating s
  3. Check and make sure every cable is TIGHT and its connections clean. If there was a bad connection inside, it may have got worse by handling it during the battery swap. Voltage drop test both cables while it's cranking - you'll need a helper. Anything more than 250mV and I'd replace the cable. But, make sure the terminals are tight FIRST. If that all checks out, look around for any wiring that might have got tugged on and damaged, or any connections that are unplugged or not together tight. If after all that you're still having misfires, you've got nothing to lose by disconnecting
  4. That spider assembly is a notorious leaker. One of the worst injection systems GM ever came up with. If you're not seeing and smelling fuel externally, it's either a bad regulator or an injector or more hosing down the bottom of the intake manifold. They always crack and spray fuel - sometimes causing a misfire, sometimes not. I can't remember if that era had the capability to do an injector balance test with a good scan tool - that would be where I'd start. If not, time to start digging to get that intake manifold off. If it's never been changed, it's the old style a
  5. If it's a NV4500 in that, gear oil. If a NV3500, it takes Synchromesh. Got the info from Amsoil. Some guys run ATF instead of Synchromesh, but Amsoil makes a Synchromesh specifically for that.
  6. Sounds like a cluster issue. I'm not sure where the magic box lives that handles all of that - more than likely it's just a tiny chip on the cluster board. Could be failed or failing buttons as well. I have zero experience with that issue. These trucks are among the worst GM has ever built as far as build-quality goes. They seem to get worse with every generation, so, things COULD be worse, lol. I could write an entire page of stuff that's gone wrong with mine. 2 of the latest were the rear differential after it shed all the tips of the spider gear teeth off for no good reason at 9
  7. Most random misfires that aren't ignition related on this vehicle are either failed lifters, cam, or other valve train components, or intake manifold air leaks. Get a scan tool on there and watch live data. When cold but in closed loop, watch the fuel trims or o2 sensors - if everything goes real lean (positive fuel trims), give it a little throttle - if they suddenly get normal, that's usually a dead ringer for an intake manifold leak. Confirm that with a spray bottle full of water, and mist the gasket surface between the manifold and head. You'll either see immediate changes in
  8. Leave it to GM to engineer something you can't use chains on! Can't say I'm surprised ...
  9. I've never seen any vehicle, regardless of size, that couldn't take chains. As long as the chains are sized correctly for the wheel, have at it ... and don't do 70 MPH.
  10. Impossible to know without a scan tool. When you press the buttons that don't work, you need to be able to see if the BCM is receiving the input signal or not. If the signal isn't making it to the truck, it could just be a defective key fob in that case.
  11. Something went wrong on the rebuild, sounds like. That doesn't sound at all like limp mode to me. Sounds like it's trying to go into 2 gears at the same time. Something was not assembled correctly. I would get on a scan tool and look at every transmission parameter in live data. Make sure things are doing what they're supposed to do ... and if they're not, you've got a problem internally. There's 2 things I'll never do on modern automobiles - body work, and transmission rebuilds. With rebuilds, there's just FAR too much that can go wrong, and it's A LOT of work to correct if it doe
  12. Just did this job on a '16 Sierra. GM can't seem to get ANYTHING right these days. Can't say I'm surprised. I'm still dealing with low bidder junk parts on my '07 Silverado 1500 at 113k miles. Tranny failed at 103k. Rear end at 97k. The clunk that has been there since day 7 has become progressively louder over the years. Something tells me the source is about to reveal itself any day now ... But back on topic ... Customer wanted cheap, since this thing has been a money pit for him since the day he bought it (Gee, sounds familiar ... shocker!) - he traded it for a Ford
  13. I've never heard of that. The nature of a hydraulic clutch is that it's self adjusting, but how a pressure plate can self adjust I haven't ever heard of, nor do I really understand how it's possible. You WANT aftermarket in this case. Knowing GM, you probably don't have much of a choice anyway. Whatever you do, STEER CLEAR of Dorman. Whatever other brands you come across, do a quick search on those prior to purchase to weed out the junk. That's the sad nature of the game today - have to spend hours reading and weeding through mountains of forum B/S to figure out the tru
  14. It's pretty simple. Install everything and go for a drive. Feel a vibration at 40-70 MPH? Unbolt the driveshaft again, and turn it 180°. It's not mission critical that it goes back in the exact same phase as factory, but it can be annoying if there's a slight vibration present.
  15. First thing I'd check is the battery cables, and any big fuses coming off that. Sounds like half the box isn't getting power at all. If that checks out, that power distribution box could be junk (underneath), or you got a mouse that chewed through wiring under there or in the harness as well. Since you're far from the salt belt, my money is on a wiring issue. I'd grab a wiring diagram from AllData DIY (about $15) and see what, if any, common connection is between all those separate circuits. It'll save you a TON of headaches.
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