Jsdirt

That's a common one. In vehicles that were neglected as far as oil changes are concerned, those will be packed solid with sludge and metal shavings. Another piss-poor design from our engineering friends at GM ...

Sounds like a bad hub bearing - the 1 thing I didn't mention in the list, LOL. Replaced many of these over the years. Another GM staple. Glad you got it taken care of.

Glad to hear that. Sad sign of our times, unfortunately, that you sometimes have to have someone do the job they were supposed to do, twice.

That would've pissed me off, too. When other people cost me money, I become less than friendly ...

Focus on that bank 1 o2 sensor - I suspect it might be stuck rich if in fact there are no air or vacuum leaks. The negative short term at 2k suggests there IS a vacuum leak. Pinch off the brake booster vacuum hose, and check the trims again. If ST goes way negative right away, you've got a bad brake booster, or a leak in that hose downstream from where you pinched it off.

Upstream means before the catalytic converter(s) (cat(s) ). If they're just sitting there, and not switching, you've got a problem either with the sensors or fuel delivery, or unmetered air.

I HATE that engine! Tear half the engine apart just to change a starter. Typical GM engineering, nothing but frustration. If I never see one again, it'll be too soon.

Bring it back to the dealer, and tell them you want your wheel STRAIGHT when it comes off the rack. Tell them it's affecting turn signal function (not shutting off one way, and shutting off too soon the other way). This is one of my biggest pet peeves. Nobody takes pride in their work anymore. It's all, RUSH, RUSH, RUSH, to keep the money flowing. Whenever I go for an alignment, I tell the guys I want that wheel STRAIGHT when it comes off of there - I'm super picky about that.

Some come with a pigtail, but not the entire harness.

If indeed the pump stops running during a left turn, then you've got a chaffed power or bad ground wire somewhere along the harness for the fuel pump power. I'd be focusing my attention there, especially on the right side of that harness. On a '98, anywhere north of the Mason-Dixon, I'd bet on it.

Lean code with a misfire doesn't jive with raw fuel smell out the exhaust. With your scan tool hooked up, go for a full throttle run in 1st gear into second (where safe to do so, obviously) - watch your o2s - both upstreams should be pegged rich (800mv or higher). If they're not full rich at full throttle, you have a fuel delivery issue (clogged injectors, fuel filter, bad new fuel pump or a defect in the wiring (power or ground), OR you've got a bad MAF. MAF grams per second at idle rule of thumb is roughly the displacement of the engine in liters - I.E. a 5.3L should read close to 5.3 g/s, and so on. Might want to set the scan tool up to graph the MAF, and note any large spikes or dropouts in the signal. If you see that, you've found a bad MAF. One other variable in all of this could be clogged catalytic converters. Usually the vehicle will start and run (sometimes), but fall flat on its face when any kind of load is applied (same symptom with a fuel delivery problem).

You'll want to at least be in the low 50's running. 53 psi and up.

Get a clean soda bottle, or a water bottle, drill a 1/4" hole or smaller in the cap, and use that to squirt water along the gasket area between the intake manifold and block. Do this first thing in the morning, after the truck is ice cold sitting all night. Any big air leaks you'll hear getting sucked in. For smaller ones, it's best to have a scan tool set up to watch your fuel trims and note any changes when water is squirted. You'll hear a difference in the way the engine runs, too, when the water finds the leak. On cold mornings, you'll also see more steam than usual coming out the tailpipe when water finds its way in. I used to use brake clean for this, but water is free, and works just as well - only difference is your fuel trims won't go rich when water is drawn in. Remember: -- A POSITIVE fuel trim number indicates the computer is ADDING fuel to correct a LEAN condition. -- A NEGATIVE number indicates the computer is taking fuel away to correct for a RICH condition. I highly recommend watching ScannerDanner (Paul Danner) on YouTube to learn how to find vacuum leaks. He's got some of the best content out there.

How's the fuel condition, after sitting all that time? Stale fuel will run lean and misfire, especially after ethanol separates out of it.

2 totally different fueling systems from a '10 to '18. Your best bet is to stick with the same exact vehicle you have when grabbing engines and electronics - will make your life 100x easier. Once you start re-engineering, things get EXPENSIVE and FRUSTRATING in a big hurry.