Jsdirt

Ahh, well that explains it!

Surprised I was that far off on the trailer weight - I've hauled plenty of 'em, and I usually get 'em right on the money. Is that a 2500 or 3500 back there? I couldn't see too well - assumed it was a 1500. Either that, or I under estimated the trailer weight. What's the GVWR of that trailer?

That's a globalist's wet dream right there ...

8 - 8,500 is my guess, assuming that's a 1500 on the back. Just the trailer and truck - not the tow vehicle.

Keeps the vehicle from slamming the bottom of shock absorber travel, which can be jarring - the bump stop is just a small cushion for those real big ones. Not absolutely needed - just nice to have. If you live anywhere south of DE & west of the Mississippi, you'll probably never use it. They get used ALOT up here in MA - our roads are rivaling 3rd-world status ... Here's a few pics of one on a Silverado - you can see what happens to them:

It's a bump stop - that one fell off as well years ago.

Where I come from aftermarket = not original ... If the original had a chip, you wouldn't be getting the truck started. That's for vehicle security only, and effects fuel delivery (shuts injectors down). The security light would blink while cranking, the truck would start and run for 2 seconds, then die. Check powers and grounds, and the connector down at the transmission like I mentioned earlier, and let us know what you find.

I just put this addition on last year - a year ago this week as a matter of fact. I just finally got around to running outlets for where the oil burner is going. My biggest problem is I'm a mechanic ... but also a carpenter, electrician, mason, and plumber around here. I NEVER catch a break! Just the other night, right before bed, of course, I lost my heat in the house. I've got a coal stoker boiler that I tied into my oil boiler 5 years ago. I've been running an old PC power cable to the stoker controller, since it's the only thing that fits that strange 3-pronged recessed male-pin plug on it. I must've been extra tired, since I let the wire fall down and lay on the hottest part of the boiler. Melted through, and tripped the breaker. I noticed the hot water getting lukewarm - luckily that tipped me off before going to bed. Sucks waking up to a 50° house, let me tell ya! So I go down there, not knowing what the problem was - hit the breaker. It immediately trips, so I start walking around doing a visual on both units. Saw the cable & peeled it off the boiler. It left some copper behind - must've made a nice spark before the breaker tripped! Grabbed my electrical repair stuff out in the barn, fixed it pretty quick. I figured that was an easy one. Hit the breaker - NOTHING! Now I'm boiling mad! It's midnight, and I have to be up in less than 6 hours on Sunday morning. Now I've got to troubleshoot an electrical problem! Wife heard me swearing, so now she's down there trying to help (made her my tool runner, lol). Had to start right at the box. Got power at the breaker. Good. Follow the wire down to the back of the oil boiler - power there. Follow that to the next junction box. Got power going into and out of the emergency switch upstairs. Then I checked the thermal switch. BINGO. The short circuit must've fried it. By now it's 1am, so I bypassed the stupid thing and went to bed. Some day I'll rewire everything the right way. For now, we're warm. Had a pic of the wiring ... but looks like I'm limited on pic sizes ... depending on the time of day ...

Makes no difference what you're hauling through MA - they're 3" off your bumper no matter what.

Shop was 33°F (1°C) all day today. Still need to get my waste oil burner hooked up. Been too busy. This was supposed to happen in July ... Got a kerosene torpedo out there for the interim, but I only fire that up when it gets into the 20's out there - that's about my limit. Hate working on stuff only to keep pausing to see if something is on fire. Nope, just the fog from my breath!

Looks to be a rubber bump stop that dried up and busted off. Usually they're on the frame - that's an odd design there.

The tube should LEAD to a fixed orifice, either in the block or in the valve cover.

A crank sensor has nothing to do with the transmission whatsoever. The crank sensor tells the ECM (engine computer) where the crankshaft is, in order for the ECU to deliver fuel and spark at the correct time. Without it, you have a no-start condition. How do you know the grounds are good? Did you voltage drop test each one of them? How did you get an Allison mated to a 350? More importantly, WHY?

They were using a fixed orifice system for a while there, instead of an actual valve. It must have this in addition to the baffling, otherwise you'd be pulling quarts of oil into the intake

On a plow truck, I'd be checking powers and grounds to the transmission control module, and any and all connections related to that. In fact I'd be checking ALL ground points on that vehicle, and getting out the wire wheel to clean everything up. Might even have to cut some of the wires off and put new connections on if they're corroded real bad. If you live anywhere in the salt belt, these are the first things I'd check.