Jsdirt

Autel works real good on GM stuff. Breezes through it nice. Still have glitches, but you'll get that with a $12,000 Snap-On unit, too. No better bang-for-buck ratio than the Autel these days. I paid $1,600 for mine 5 years ago, when the Snappy unit was $10k. There's ones way cheaper than this that'll do the job, too. I needed bi-directional control because I have to fix these rolling toilets every day, lol. Makes troubleshooting ALOT easier, and we need all the help we can get in today's automotive world, where one system can fail literally in 500,000 different ways ... For program

The prime function is based off of the oil pressure sender. Key on and no oil pressure, it'll stop running after 2-3 seconds. Once oil pressure is detected, it stays running. That's how the prime works. I had forgotten about this since my '07 is all failure-prone computer controlled now, with no return line. It's pulse-width modulated speed. So, when the magic box (above the spare no less, where all the road salt and sand goes) fails and leaves you for dead on the side of a busy highway, the new one won't even work when you plug it in. Needs to be programmed to the vehicle (MORE $$

Could very well be the relay heating up and failing. Wouldn't be the first time I've seen that happen. If it does happen again, leave the key on and swap that relay with the A/C relay (if it's the same). If it suddenly starts, that's more than likely the problem.

Ambient temp sensor isn't going to fix this. You need a good scan tool with live data. If you have a set of gauges, I'd throw them on first and verify system pressure (could be empty or low). In the scan tool you'll need to check ALL parameters, namely something called, "A/C Permission", or similarly worded. If permission is withheld, which it will be with a blinking snowflake button, you'll need to poke around the different parameters and see what's happening. Most common is a failure of the high pressure switch when hot. System will work great until the switch heats up for a whil

You've got a couple odd ones there! Unfortunately the only way to pinpoint a severely intermittent and environmentally dependent problem like that is to recreate the problem while watching live data on a scan tool. If it ain't broke, it's impossible to fix. Best to do this with someone else driving so you can focus on the scan tool 100%. It will take some time to go through all the parameters, but you can start with all the fuel parameters first. Once you figure out what you're losing (computer command, voltage dropping out as with a short, etc..) it will make troubleshooting 10,0

Yep, totally defies logic. Must be a warranty job, otherwise they'd have everyone do it right. The other reason for that could be if there's some coating on the cylinders, like Nikasil - Japanese motorcycle manufacturers used to do this in the day. You couldn't hone or bore, since it would wipe out this coating. Only cast pistons could be used, too, if I remember right, or they'd seize. I highly doubt GM would spend a nickel on this process, though. It wasn't cheap, even for single cylinder bikes. If that were my car & I wasn't a tech, I'd take it to a private garag

Unfortunately, you're pretty much out of luck there. While it's not ideal to mix n match pistons and cylinders, it will still run. Hopefully it's not worn out to the point where it smokes. I suppose you could measure at least 6 points on each piston and cylinder, and match them up with whichever has the correct clearance, but with taper and everything that may be tough. If it were me, I'd buy a whole new set of +1 or +2 (depending on what's in there now) pistons and rings, bring all of that plus the block to a machine shop and have them bored to match. Since it's already apart, tha

Might have an encoder motor issue. I forget how to check those, but there's plenty of info online about removing it and checking it's operation. Research that first.

NEVER throw parts at a vehicle unless YOU know for sure what the issue is. Mechanic or not, TEST a battery before replacing! That's over $100 down the drain that could've fixed the real problem. You need to get a fuel pressure gauge and check your fuel pressure & volume. You'll also need to check for a failed vent valve in the EVAP system that might be choking off air to the tank, which will create a vacuum and starve the engine of fuel. AGAIN - don't replace ANYTHING until you test it yourself and are 100% sure of the problem.

Great! Glad to hear that. No problem - glad to help.

Yikes. Those transmissions won't go into "limp mode" since they're not computer controlled. They either work or they don't. There's an electrical connection for the lockup converter, and usually a mechanical cable connection to the throttle body called a "TV cable" - SUPER important. If this cable is adjusted incorrectly, you can burn a transmission up in less than 50 feet. That controls line pressure, shift points, kick down, etc. - basically everything. Running it low on fluid will also burn them up fairly quickly. That single wire is probably for the fuel gauge. Don'

If the fuel pressure is good and the pump is putting out good volume and the injectors are both spraying a good pattern (use a timing light to see them better), then I'd focus on the distributor - cap, rotor, wires, timing, ignitor unit, pickup, etc.. Also make sure the distributor isn't completely worn out, since it sounds like it was neglected by the prior owners - check the shaft with rotor removed for excessive play. Always start with the simple stuff first before diving into the engine. Those 350's will run 400k-plus miles with good care. Sounds like the previous owners didn't

I would be contacting the shop that installed the transmission, and have THEM tow it there. Only reason for an "out-of-the-blue" trip into neutral, besides fluid loss, is an internal transmission problem. If there's no evidence of leakage, and the fluid is at the correct dipstick level, I'd call that shop & tell them what happened. Hopefully they treat you well and take care of things from here.

No need to bleed unless you open any of the lines. If you see brake fluid, you'll have to bleed.

Your post is difficult to decipher. So you put a new distributor assembly in and now it won't start or run? It's probably 180° off. Throw a timing light on there and see what is happening. If you don't have one, you can try re-stabbing it 180° from where it is now.