Jsdirt

PCM powers and grounds - EVERY one of them has to be good. Since PCM replacement didn't fix it, then all of these need to be good, AND the ground from the computer to the injectors needs to be checked end-to-end. I use halogen headlight bulbs to test powers and grounds. Puts a decent load on the wiring. If they can light up that, then they'll run what they need to run. If you can get the computer to ground and light the bulb using a short jumper, then the wire is bad to the injectors. Also make sure a pin didn't get bent over when plugging the computer connectors back in, and that the female terminal puts enough tension on the male terminal to achieve continuity AND the ability to carry a load.

Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon! You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need. Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks. If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case. If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it. If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there?? TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression. Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.

LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good. After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior! I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ... I won't make that mistake again. EVER. Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL

I'm tired of troubleshooting cold-weather start and idle issues with my '94 940. Time to scrap the friggin electronics for something that WORKS without giving me an aneurism. A pair of manual choke Webers to the rescue! Since it's a '94 I'll probably have to swipe the balance shaft out of my '92 parts car, since the chances of the '94 having a block-mounted distributor drive gear are slim to none ... and my luck is never that good when lots of work is involved! That way I can run an old boat engine distributor assembly with points. No more starting issues next winter! Back to SIMPLICITY. https://postimg.cc/Lgh9tnX5 https://postimg.cc/yWWsr31C https://postimg.cc/gallery/DWZkrGf

If I were a betting man I'd say you need a bi-directional scan tool in order to get trapped air out of the ABS. That's the trend things have been heading toward for many years now. They don't want anyone working on "THEIR" vehicles at home. The, "you bought it, but WE own it" mentality is rampant today. I always just kept the master full, and used a vacuum bleeder to pull the new fluid out. I would start off by emptying the master with a turkey baster, fill with fresh fluid, then start at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, ending at left front.

I don't recall ever dealing with one on an '06 and back. It may not even exist on that. I can't remember for sure. Any kind of ice in or after the evaporator is normally due to low charge with both a clutch-cycling orifice tube system, and a TXV system.

I respond to correct dumb comments. Not, "complaining about others", lol. What the hell does that even mean? As I said, I don't give a ****!

Thing is gorgeous! Definitely been a LONG time since I've heard that sound! I wouldn't call myself a purist, since I'll throw Wilwoods and power adders on anything. For me, that engine makes me cringe as a former shop owner remembering all I've been through with some of them. Plus I hate LS engines for their oiling system (MANY places to lose pressure from, especially on the AFM ones which I wouldn't be caught dead with), and the dowel-less front and rear covers - an engineering decision that irks me to no end! And I despise electronics with every fiber of my being. My main reason for avoiding modern electronics is that when they fail, they typically leave you stranded. Tied for 1st place is also the fact that sometimes troubleshooting super-annoying problems can suck the life right out of you. I've wasted so many hours of my life chasing gremlins on those in all kinds of vehicles. I find carburetors and simple HEI style components much more suitable for keeping my sanity, lol. Different strokes for different folks. I probably get more hate from the younger crowd for sticking with my old school ways of thinking than you would for doing an LS swap. When everything's working, they're certainly a ton of fun!

I honestly have no idea. These days I don't work on anything built after 1994. Based on what is shared with me from those still in the industry, this is par for the course - noises, rattles, ticking, etc.. Probably better posting that in the 2024 truck forum so fellow owners can chime in with their experiences. This section doesn't get as much eyes on it.

So, GM will sell this thing for 60% higher than it's actually worth, and those blinded by shiny things and comfy seats will buy them up in droves only to be disappointed that either the engine failure modes haven't been corrected, or, that new failure modes were introduced. After 5 years the sheer complexity and cost of repairs to the various systems will render the truck "unfixable", and thousands will head to the crusher while some people will be left owing THOUSANDS on the note. Happy now? There is no room to put, "SOLD", in my signature ... and if I edit it I lose all the other vehicles I have listed, so the Silverado will stay there until the forum changes the way that posts. I also have a few other vehicles that I can't fit there, so it's not accurate anyway. Besides that, I don't much give a ****.

If you have air in your oil pump, your engine is on borrowed time. That should NOT happen EVER. What that sounds like to me is the starter spooling down from a high RPM coupled with the drive gear retracting back into the starter. Stuff like this they used to take the time to engineer out of components ... but these days that kind of quality is a 20th century relic, so this is what you get. The sound reminds me of those toy cars I had as a kid that had a flywheel and spring inside - you would rev them up by pushing them along the floor until you heard that flywheel spinning at a high RPM, then you could let the car go and it would shoot across the floor at 20 MPH, launch of jumps, smash into furniture and walls. There was a point where you could get the RPM of that flywheel so high that it would go FAR out of balance. The whole car would make that exact sound, and the high RPM would bleed off SUPER fast due to the imbalance. Sounds exactly like what is going on with the starter. Just my educated guess anyway.

You have zero reading comprehension, or memory, since I have said NUMEROUS times that I dumped that Silverado years ago with 134k miles on it and bought a 1st gen Cummins-powered 1993 Ram W250 with a 5-speed. I spent more time working on the Silverado than I did driving it ... so I replaced it with something that's now 33 model years old that can actually get the job done without breaking! Sure, I can't speed like I could with the Silverado, but now I can enjoy my weekends rather than spending the entire 2 days underneath a modern pile of dog ****. Yeah, the Marquis is no good ... but it has taken my wife and myself back and forth to work nearly 70 miles PER DAY for TWENTY-THREE YEARS. Still running the ORIGINAL in-tank electric fuel pump after 40 years and over 312K miles! Your definition of "quality" is skewed ... I'm starting to realize you might just be mentally disabled. Sorry for picking on you in that case. https://postimg.cc/mzKr55sY https://postimg.cc/jD9d51W5 https://postimg.cc/gallery/8pZjHjN

I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary. Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes. Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades. The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since. Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first! GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.

Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.

Because that is IDIOTIC, much like this question. They've already been forced to do it by past administrations - why would you roll that back when it's a GOOD thing? WHO IS ARGUING FOR LOWER MILEAGE???? NOBODY IS!! I'm certainly not! What I want is RELIABLE vehicles again that are worth the price paid! I don't get your logic here ... In 2003 I paid $2,200 for our '86 Grand Marquis. It's STILL running and I've never been inside the engine, aside for the timing cover since it was leaking, so I threw a new timing set in since that makes sense. Transmission is ORIGINAL. Electric pump in the gas tank is ORIGINAL. Rear end is ORIGINAL. I'd have to hit my head REAL hard to want to pay $60k or more for a car that still can't come close to the comfort, seating and storage space, or reliability of this one. Nothing is even in the ball park! Hundreds of thousands of brands and models have been built and sent to the crusher while this one keeps on going! https://postimg.cc/Z9XRrCSg I've got a whole fleet of cars, motorcycles, and a truck close to this age for summer and winter. No one could pay me enough to buy anything built this century. I have zero use for any it.