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Jsdirt

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Everything posted by Jsdirt

  1. Just a quick Google search is your friend: https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&channel=mac_bm&q=GM+23317176+magneride+substitute&spell=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiVqpiLlLj5AhV7M1kFHYZvCAwQBSgAegQIARA1&biw=1853&bih=1186&dpr=2
  2. There's a ground and/or wiring problem somewhere. The fun part is tracking it down.
  3. If you've got a misfire that severe, the check engine light will be flashing. If there's no flashing MIL, then there's something else going on. Remember, in the 21st century "NEW" means, Never Ever Worked. In other words, just because the driveshaft is new doesn't mean the u-joints are good. Now if you've got the flashing light, I'd bet money on failed lifters, a galled camshaft lobe, or busted valve spring(s). It's just a GM thing. Instead of correcting the problem in 2008, they just keep reusing the same exact low-bidder junk parts in the valvetrains of nearly every truck engine all the way to the present day.
  4. Probably a combination of a few things. Could be lazy o2's - can't tell that on paper. Need to watch them live. MAF reading is a bit high at idle - that could be failing, too. Bank 1 is leaner - could be a leaking EVAP purge valve. That acts just like a vacuum leak once all the fumes are purged from the charcoal canister.
  5. There's a strong possibility that this option might have to be programmed into the BCM with a J-box & laptop. I'd see if you can find a mobile programmer, or a shop that does this (They're few and far between, just FYI). Steer clear of any dealers, unless you've exhausted every other option.
  6. Upload it to YouTube as an "unlisted" video, then post the link here. Sounds like it might have developed a misfire. If that's the case, check wiring on top of engine that may have been touched or disturbed during the oil change, or any oil that may have spilled on any coil.
  7. Well, blue smoke is oil, white smoke is coolant (Or a SEVERELY rich condition - as in an injector dumping raw fuel into the pipe). Doesn't take much oil to make smoke, so you could be using it, but haven't done enough miles on the oil to detect it. Either way, it's under warranty (IF less than 3 years old). Let GM fix their frigg-up if that's the case.
  8. That's your problem - you need to find out why.
  9. That's pretty much how it works - computer sees brakes applied, cuts cruise. Back in the day they were adjustable. I haven't been under the dash of anything this new yet, so who knows if it still is. Something tells me that's probably an expense GM cut, but you never know. You'll have to get under there and look.
  10. I would load that wire to see if it can handle the current load. Isolate it completely from both ends, use a power source and a halogen headlamp bulb and use that length of wire to power it up. If the bulb is nice and bright, you can be certain the wiring is good. I wouldn't go winging a clockspring at it until you test everything out first. Will be a huge waste of money and time if that's not it. Usually when they fail, NOTHING works - horn, switches, backlighting. I'd only replace that if I exhausted all other options.
  11. I still think there's a wiring issue. I'd check the wiring from the BCM to the switches first. BCM is always a possibility, but I'd want to exhaust all other options first before condemning any module. I don't think the clockspring is an issue since all the switches work ... but that's still a possibility, too.
  12. Give them a tug, or a continuity test. They can break inside the jacketing - you'd never find it visually in that case. If the wire stretches like elastic and breaks in your hand, it was broken internally.
  13. Unfortunately anything is possible. Without testing things, it's anyone's guess. Most common issue is the wires break from the tilt wheel function bending them back and forth, since GM uses some of the worst quality wiring I've ever seen, and has for over 15 model years. If I were a betting man I'd say the problem is in the wiring right in the column. The flex point of the tilt wheel is where I'd start looking.
  14. I found this interesting problem of running with the key off in a YouTube video. Not what I would have expected causing the issue! Check it out:
  15. Could be a clockspring issue, or more likely some crap wiring that split and shorted, or broke completely.
  16. Uhhg - this thing got the parts bazooka blasted at it. You need to find out what you're losing when it dies. Spark, or fuel, then go from there. Since everything AND the kitchen sink has been thrown at this one, I'd bet on a wiring issue to either the fuel pump or ignitor (Or possibly both).
  17. Dipstick tube is probably rusting from the inside out. GM quality metals strike again ...
  18. Good to know! Glad you got the info you needed. I appreciate the follow up. You're welcome.
  19. Not surprised. GM isn't very forthcoming with service info on brand new stuff. My '07 was a nightmare to find basic info on when it was new. Someone with a TPMS scan tool should be able to tell you. Most small garages, and every major tire store will have one. A scan normally lists pertinent info regarding the sensors - battery state of charge, mHz, PSI reading, serial number, etc.. .. Unless GM went and changed everything, which is always a possibility ...
  20. A few things will cause a pulsing action at that speed. If you've got one or more brake calipers hanging up and overheating the rotor(s), that will definitely pulse. You'd really notice it when applying the brakes. U-joint problems will shake the vehicle- not a slow pulse. Wheel balance issues can cause this, too. Anything in the front will be felt in the steering wheel whether a brake or balance issue. As far as the slow shut down, you've got a wiring problem causing that. Lack of a ground, or a short to power could do this, or possibly the switch itself is failing.
  21. I've cut the rubber hose before and clamped it directly to the heater core on a pickup. This would also eliminate the tee to feed the rear heater core. I believe it was the same year truck. Not sure if the heater core fittings are of a different size on that or not - never did that on a Yukon. Should be the same, but I'd measure things before cutting anything.
  22. Yep, then half the time the hardware that is supposed to come with the part is either missing or wrong ... so if you can't mickey-rig it, you've got to send the whole thing back. HUGE PITA. I recently had a Toyota in here, I think it was the 3.3 V6 in a '04 Highlander - the tensioner in a timing belt kit was totally wrong. Thankfully I was able to reuse part of the old assembly and just transfer the pully / bearing over to it. Then other times stuff is misboxed - one time I got a Moog box, but the part inside clearly was NOT a Moog part! Had to send that back, wait an eternity for the correct part to come back ... Lately they've been using DHL as a shipper when they used to exclusively either use USPS or FedEx. DHL SUCKS! Worst shipping service there is as far as timely deliveries go. I ordered a pair of OE GM o2 sensors last week for a Tahoe I've got here. TX to MA used to take 3 days. Coming up on a week and they're STILL not here yet! WTF. They piss me off. You get what you pay for ...
  23. How can you say that without seeing it?
  24. Really difficult to tell. I have drums on my '07 Silverado 1500, but I've seen many others of the same year with disc. Just depends on the option package, and what system GM decided to use in production that day. Whether it's swapped or not doesn't really matter as long as the gearing is correct for a 4x4, and the brakes work as designed. Most of the time the identical rear end assembly is used whether the vehicle is a V6 or 6.0 or larger V8. The "G" prefix RPO code will tell you what the gearing was from the factory. That's about it.
  25. Ahh, that's interesting. On the car side of things, every single one built after '11 seems to be push button. Got a '16 Passat here for a brake job that has a fob with a switchblade key, but is push-button start. Too much crap today! Impossible to keep up with it all. I want to go back to the 1972 model year when things were friggin normal ...
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