Jsdirt

Nice! That would take years off my life keeping them that clean up here in MA. Between the rain and road salt, besides all the potholes that stay full of water, it never stops.

I don't have any pics of my '78 Cutlass on the computer - they were REAL pictures ... with film! Long before this computer crap took over everything, and made everything a PITA! I wasn't a fan of the downsizing done in '78. I never liked the look of it, but the kid who built it made it look mint, at least compared to the heaps I normally drove back then. Heavy orange peeled black paint (good from 20'), Corvette Ralleyes with raised whites, and they peeled the vinyl top off and painted that. Loved those Ralleyes!! Looked so nice! It had a Goodwrench 350 and a BUILT TH400 that barked the tires nicely! Kid built it totally wrong for the street, though. Everything he put in or on the engine was for the drag strip! Holley Dominator Strip intake manifold, Crane 292H came that barely idled ... and on a stock converter! Thing used to start creeping at lights with both feet on the pedal. Would empty that vacuum canister in no time flat! Everyone thought I was doing it on purpose, so EVERYONE had to race me at every light, HAHAHA! I'd get smoked off the line by a Ford Escort ... but once it hit 3,000 RPM, HANG ON! It ripped! Was like a 2-stroke motocrosser powerband. Also had gray Fiero bucket seats in the all black interior, and custom dual exhaust that I ended up throwing a set of Dynomax Super Turbos on. MAN did that thing sound SWEEET! I have a VHS tape of me drag racing some kid at night. Can't see crap, but you can hear me!

Nice! I had one here, once. The car dealer I used to haul for stopped by with it. That was over 10 years ago now. Those are SUPER rare these days, especially up here! Never even see them at car shows anymore. https://postimg.cc/0rvcNZ1W

I always upgraded the suspension and steering components - bushings and ball joints, and had older cars that I could out-corner ANY modern car with. I used to be able to take my '78 Cutlass on off-ramps at stupid speeds and make the sharp MA corners without even squealing the tires. So much fun. My '72 El Camino must've had work done by the previous owner, since that thing seemed to handle even better than the '78. I think the suspension & steering on the '72 was much more advanced than the '64, so that probably just made a good system even better. I'm the same way with vehicles. I hate having to worry about the paint on my '93 W250 Cummins. I'm not used to that, lol. https://postimg.cc/mzKr55sY

BEAUTIFUL!! That a Cutlass F85? Or 442? My side-ID skills are lacking thanks to failing memory, lol. Love that color & year, too! Yeah I was never big on entering my own stuff, but I always liked seeing what everyone had, the rare models, and what's been modified. That was always fun. These days I have barely enough time to do what needs to be done at home. Oddly enough, here in MA there are more car shows than ever in history! You'd think up here it would be dead, but it's bigger than EVER! Took the 940 for its maiden voyage with the carburetor. At first I couldn't get out of the yard! This originally had the "Bosch" system (our other 940 has Regina - single fuel pump in fuel tank, and space-age-looking ignition coil on driver's fender) - that has dual fuel pumps. One in the tank, and one under the center left of the vehicle. I had unplugged the external one thinking I wouldn't need it with the carburetor ... but the way I have the pressure regulator hooked up, 90% of the fuel volume is going back to the fuel tank, so cranked all the way down, the regulator is only supplying a hair above 3.5 PSI to the carb. Turns out the in-tank pump (15 PSI alone, instead of 45) couldn't handle the load. Plugged it back in and went for a rip. Ran great! Throttle response is always amazing with carburetors. ZERO delay that no FI system can reproduce. Also fires up in half the crank rotations as before. Low end power was DRAMATICALLY improved. There was an ongoing lean issue with the FI that I got tired of figuring out, so this is a MASSIVE improvement! Above 50 MPH on hills it feels SUPER weak, though. This is more than likely due to the timing not being advanced enough by the computer, since it believes there are multiple failures. I can live with that through the winter. Will keep me from passing slowpokes where I shouldn't and getting speeding tickets at least.

Even tougher is the 5.0 / 302. That's what this one has. https://postimg.cc/Z9XRrCSg https://postimg.cc/4n3F3yzY Just realized I had the airbox removed in the engine pic, lol.

Nice! I wish I had something to put them on. Someday when the engine craps out in our '86 Grand Marquis I guess. My truck is diesel, so won't need one for that. The Merc is at 315k miles right now with zero signs of slowing down! I'm more of an Edelbrock guy, though. I like super-simple.

That's a beautiful thing! The one I'm converting now is my winter beater. Only has 114 HP at the crank stock, LOL. 2.3L 4-banger. Pathetic in the power department, but it gets me to work all winter.

Well that's progress! Nice. Man! I hate all this modern crap! Nothing is simple anymore! Since you've tried known-good MAFs, I'm betting on something being missing on one of the 5 wires. Disregard the IAT sensor wires, and focus just on the MAF wiring. Power, ground, signal return. Something isn't right on one of them. I'm doing a carb conversion on a 1994 vehicle right now. Everything is simple, and just works! If something doesn't work, you MAKE it work! Glad to be out of the industry, that's for sure - I don't miss the computer crap!

Yeah, I've given up years ago with that! I was able to load a few when I first joined the site sometime around '07. Then after maybe 20 pics, it said I exceeded the limit. Now every pic I try to post says I've "exceeded 1mb". ONE MB??? That's Windows 95 ******, lol!!

I guess I'm the only one on this forum who can't get effing pics to load here! Do you have to resize them to post, or am I just blocked from uploads? I have the same luck with automotive electronics ... but this is the ONLY site on the net that I have this problem! I'd post pics of what I'm working on ... but I CAN'T! Just fabbed up the kickdown cable (had to extend the cable mount WAAAY out from the throttle shaft to get a full pull), and parts arrived for the fuel lines on the 940 carb conversion project. Should be able to drive this thing by the end of the day. If not for work, I'd have had this thing done SIX weeks ago. Got the jetting sorted out last week. Had a real bad tip-in bog that I couldn't seem to correct. Friggin float height was over 11mm too HIGH! eBay purchase, so no wonder everything is screwed up right out of the box! I ended up with a larger dual-squirt accelerator pump jet anyway instead of the single. Also moved the 70 primary idle jet (4 sizes too big out of the box) to the secondary idle circuit, and installed a 57 in the primary. Runs great on the fuel bottle! Still using the computer for ignition. Going to drive it first and see if I want to go through the project of installing an intermediate shaft with a distributor drive gear, so I can install a block-mounted distributor and run points, 100% computer free. I should do that anyway just from a simplicity / reliability / tunability standpoint. The electronics left me stranded last year a couple times! I can't tweak the timing to my liking right now because of the computer. Tried twisting the cam-driven distributor already ... and the damned thing just reverts back to where it was! That's infuriating. But if it runs well enough I might save that for next season. Just driving it in and out of the shop to work on other projects, it feels 1,000% more responsive with the carburetor. Also fires MUCH faster when cranking. Can't wait to drive it and see if I got more than 114 ponies, lolol. Hopefully these don't go 404 like the last post ... https://postimg.cc/gallery/MjhrmZS Seems like that site went back to dial-up internet! Maybe they'll fix that some day ...

If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not. You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM. Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.

Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol. Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet. Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working. I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting. I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY. I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground). Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal. Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power). Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return. Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85

From where I'm sitting this sounds like a compatibility problem. I'm assuming the 2007 was a 900-series truck, and not an 800-series (they were sold side-by-side in dealerships that model year), since it starts and runs. This is why I HATE post-2006 vehicles. Everything becomes a huge problem when you try to keep the thing running for longer than the manufacturer has designed it to. I can't remember when Global-A architecture started - either '10 or '11. For your sake, you had better hope it's '11, or you're going to be spending some BIG money to correct this cluster-eff. That's something you need to find out before doing anything else. You may have several computers bricked ... but the fact that it runs tells me you MIGHT be ok here. EDIT: Just did a quick refresher. You're screwed. This is Global-A. The 2 systems are NOT compatible in the slightest. Once you get the correct engine in there that IS compatible, you're going to need to see how many computers are locked. Absolute NIGHTMARE to straighten out, too. Your buddy might be better off cutting his losses and finding something else. Welcome to post-2006 vehicle electronics. This is why I quit the industry, and drive nothing built after 1994. This stuff takes all the fun out of wrenching!

PCM powers and grounds - EVERY one of them has to be good. Since PCM replacement didn't fix it, then all of these need to be good, AND the ground from the computer to the injectors needs to be checked end-to-end. I use halogen headlight bulbs to test powers and grounds. Puts a decent load on the wiring. If they can light up that, then they'll run what they need to run. If you can get the computer to ground and light the bulb using a short jumper, then the wire is bad to the injectors. Also make sure a pin didn't get bent over when plugging the computer connectors back in, and that the female terminal puts enough tension on the male terminal to achieve continuity AND the ability to carry a load.

Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon! You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need. Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks. If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case. If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it. If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there?? TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression. Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.

LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good. After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior! I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ... I won't make that mistake again. EVER. Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL

I'm tired of troubleshooting cold-weather start and idle issues with my '94 940. Time to scrap the friggin electronics for something that WORKS without giving me an aneurism. A pair of manual choke Webers to the rescue! Since it's a '94 I'll probably have to swipe the balance shaft out of my '92 parts car, since the chances of the '94 having a block-mounted distributor drive gear are slim to none ... and my luck is never that good when lots of work is involved! That way I can run an old boat engine distributor assembly with points. No more starting issues next winter! Back to SIMPLICITY. https://postimg.cc/Lgh9tnX5 https://postimg.cc/yWWsr31C https://postimg.cc/gallery/DWZkrGf

If I were a betting man I'd say you need a bi-directional scan tool in order to get trapped air out of the ABS. That's the trend things have been heading toward for many years now. They don't want anyone working on "THEIR" vehicles at home. The, "you bought it, but WE own it" mentality is rampant today. I always just kept the master full, and used a vacuum bleeder to pull the new fluid out. I would start off by emptying the master with a turkey baster, fill with fresh fluid, then start at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, ending at left front.

I don't recall ever dealing with one on an '06 and back. It may not even exist on that. I can't remember for sure. Any kind of ice in or after the evaporator is normally due to low charge with both a clutch-cycling orifice tube system, and a TXV system.

I respond to correct dumb comments. Not, "complaining about others", lol. What the hell does that even mean? As I said, I don't give a ****!

Thing is gorgeous! Definitely been a LONG time since I've heard that sound! I wouldn't call myself a purist, since I'll throw Wilwoods and power adders on anything. For me, that engine makes me cringe as a former shop owner remembering all I've been through with some of them. Plus I hate LS engines for their oiling system (MANY places to lose pressure from, especially on the AFM ones which I wouldn't be caught dead with), and the dowel-less front and rear covers - an engineering decision that irks me to no end! And I despise electronics with every fiber of my being. My main reason for avoiding modern electronics is that when they fail, they typically leave you stranded. Tied for 1st place is also the fact that sometimes troubleshooting super-annoying problems can suck the life right out of you. I've wasted so many hours of my life chasing gremlins on those in all kinds of vehicles. I find carburetors and simple HEI style components much more suitable for keeping my sanity, lol. Different strokes for different folks. I probably get more hate from the younger crowd for sticking with my old school ways of thinking than you would for doing an LS swap. When everything's working, they're certainly a ton of fun!

I honestly have no idea. These days I don't work on anything built after 1994. Based on what is shared with me from those still in the industry, this is par for the course - noises, rattles, ticking, etc.. Probably better posting that in the 2024 truck forum so fellow owners can chime in with their experiences. This section doesn't get as much eyes on it.

So, GM will sell this thing for 60% higher than it's actually worth, and those blinded by shiny things and comfy seats will buy them up in droves only to be disappointed that either the engine failure modes haven't been corrected, or, that new failure modes were introduced. After 5 years the sheer complexity and cost of repairs to the various systems will render the truck "unfixable", and thousands will head to the crusher while some people will be left owing THOUSANDS on the note. Happy now? There is no room to put, "SOLD", in my signature ... and if I edit it I lose all the other vehicles I have listed, so the Silverado will stay there until the forum changes the way that posts. I also have a few other vehicles that I can't fit there, so it's not accurate anyway. Besides that, I don't much give a ****.

If you have air in your oil pump, your engine is on borrowed time. That should NOT happen EVER. What that sounds like to me is the starter spooling down from a high RPM coupled with the drive gear retracting back into the starter. Stuff like this they used to take the time to engineer out of components ... but these days that kind of quality is a 20th century relic, so this is what you get. The sound reminds me of those toy cars I had as a kid that had a flywheel and spring inside - you would rev them up by pushing them along the floor until you heard that flywheel spinning at a high RPM, then you could let the car go and it would shoot across the floor at 20 MPH, launch of jumps, smash into furniture and walls. There was a point where you could get the RPM of that flywheel so high that it would go FAR out of balance. The whole car would make that exact sound, and the high RPM would bleed off SUPER fast due to the imbalance. Sounds exactly like what is going on with the starter. Just my educated guess anyway.