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About andrewb24

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  1. I had a local truck accessories shop install a lower rough country 2" kit and I didn't like how close the axle was. I also wanted a little more lift and decided to get a 2.5" motofab leveling kit for upper strut and decided to install myself. While installing I noticed a boot already had a clamp missing and I know the shop messed it up because that put a zip tie on it. After installing the opposite side of the damaged one i guess i somehow knocked off a clamp I guess not knowing what I was doing at the time and also an inner boot must have had a small hole because i could see a little bit of grease on it. So basically the install is what caused them to tear. Which I didnt think was that big of deal until i went to try and just put new clamps on but couldnt get them where i was satisfied and decided to replace the whole axle while they were available.
  2. I had busted boots on my axles on both sides of my truck. At the end of last year the dealer was going to replace them under warranty so they ordered the parts which were back ordered and took a month to get them so when I went back for them to replace them, they decided they would not be able to replace under warranty. It was like $1400 it was going to cost me so I figured I would try and do myself so I ended up going ahead and buying the axles from the dealer before another dealer tried to get these since it would be no telling when two more would be available. The dealer price was like $250-$260/each but I got them down to $200/each. For the install the dealer said it would take like 8 hours for installation. I completed it in my garage in about 3 hours. Before doing this I searched the web high and low on how to change the axles out and did not find much so I wanted to walk through the steps from what I recall and may be it will help someone else out one day. There was one YouTube video of a guy installing a lift kit that helped some but still didn't show everything I needed to see but enough to make me feel comfortable going ahead and trying it. The only part I was worried about was how to get axle out of the differential case but that ended up being the easiest part of the job. Note: I am not a mechanic just a Diy'er 1. Obviously park on level ground and put parking brake on. Put stops behind back wheels (I did not do) 2. Set Jack under truck and go ahead jack enough to apply some pressure then break lug nuts on wheels loose and after that finish jacking truck up high enough up to get the wheel off. 3. Lower truck on appropriate jack stands and I would leave the jack in place as well for extra safety unless you need it which I don't think you will on this install. 4. Remove axle nut with a 36mm socket which will require a strong impact wrench or a regular socket wrench and probably need a cheater bar or a piece of pipe laying around to break it loose. If you have to muscle it with a regular socket wrench you will need a pry bar to place between lugs while breaking the nut loose to keep rotor from spinning. 5.This can be done before step 4 but doesn't matter. Remove all 10mm nuts from knuckle that are holding a sensor and brake lines on. 6. Remove Brake Caliper (before removing this find a s hook, wire , rope or something to place on the truck frame somewhere to hang the caliper on or if have something you can put under the truck that will hold it to keep pressure off the brake lines) which has 2 bolts holding it on I can't remember the size but I think they were 18mm or 22mm maybe. 7. After that you will need a star bit to remove the brake disk/rotor and sorry but not sure on the size bit but I want to say a t25, t30 or maybe t35 8. Now would be a good time to push the axle through the hub (I don't want to recommend this but I think it'll be fine but I got a block of wood and placed on the axle stem where nut threads on and hit with a sledge hammer a few times and this didn't mess anything up, you could probably even tap it without the wood but may risk damaging threading but if your replacing that doesn't really matter unless you want to do like I plan to do and fix up the old axles for spares) I think the video I saw the guy used some kind of air punch to push it through the hub. 9. Remove the 18mm nut that holds the upper control arm and knuckle together. 10. Remove the 21mm nut that holds the steering control arm to the knuckle. 11. When you have the axle where it is freely moving in the hub then remove the lower control arm nut. Cant recall size but I believe its an 18mm as well. set the knuckle to the side. (i set mine to the side and after i finished I had a squealing noise from where I laid the knuckle down and it bent the dust cover and made it rub on the rotor) 12. You have to remove the axle from the differential which is just prying it out. I used a crowbar or big flat head screw driver and put right between axle and differential and pried it out with a little force which I only had 7k miles on the truck at the time so it came out pretty easy. 13. All you have to do now is get the new axle and push the one end in to differential case and then put everything back together in reverse order. 14. After you have it all back together except the wheel. Spin the rotor with your hand and make sure it doesn't rub against dust shield. If it does its probably on bottom of rotor or something and you can pry it away with a screw driver and test again. If no sound is made put the wheel back on. I don't think I had to on this project but you may have to take the sway bar nut off with an 18mm and probably going to need impact wrench for that. I am pretty sure you don't have to remove it to do the axles. Also if you do have to you will need the jack for this so you can jack the lower control arm up to get the sway bar bolt back through the hole in the lower control arm and get the nut on. other tips 1. have paper towels near by 2. I got a mechanic type stool with wheels that has adjustable height and it will save your back and has a pan for tools on the bottom. 3. use brake cleaner for cleaning grease off garage floor or tools. 4. use fast orange to clean hands 5. take your time and don't panic lol 6. be prepared for wife to complain about you being outside so long because she doesn't understand how aggravated you are while your wondering why you even did this project yourself because its a PIA. 7. I could've got axles off gm parts online stores for a little cheaper but they were out of stock at the time. 8. Use an impact wrench whenever you can but know its limits. Don't use it to install the brake line mounts on the knuckle but do use to take off. 9. Play Morgan Wallen while doing the install. 10. Dont finish your 12 pack to quick while in the middle of the install. 11. Dont complain to me if you messed something up this is just what I went through because again I am not a mechanic by no means. 12. Keep the nuts and bolts organized in a way that will make it easy to know where it goes.
  3. Tore mine down last night and removed my passenger side strut. Probably took an hour maybe a little more and I had most of the tools ready from doing the driver side a couple days ago. Its still a pain doing alone no matter how many times you do it but not that bad if you have a patience which I usually lack lol but I made myself be patient. Also get a little stool with wheels to sit on because it will help save your back or actually your whole body from being sore. With all that said if you are required to take the strut apart to install the Bilstein shocks you have then it may be better to pay someone to do it for sure. That part would seem dangerous but I have never tried that. I had to take my strut out because I installed a 2.5" top strut leveling kit and needed to see why the top bolts were not threaded all the way through the top nuts. What I do not know is if I need a realignment because I had the truck aligned when the kit was originally installed months ago but after taking it apart does it need alignment again? even though I didnt really change anything but still feel like it might need a little bit of adjusting.
  4. You have to unhook the sway bar to get the strut out but before that you have to remove the brake line bolts that are fastened to the knuckle with 10mm bolts, steering linkage which is 21mm or 22mm cant remember, need to take axle nut (36mm) off if 4wd and push axle through the hub (not all the way through but enough that it moves freely so you do not hyper extend the axle) , Id place a jack under the hub assembly before this step which is to pry down upper control arm with pry bar and remove 18 mm nut to unhook upper control arm then slowly take prybar out, next take off the 18mm nut on the sway bar and slowly lower hub down with the jack until you get strut out. I just took one of my struts out the other day and plan to do the other one this afternoon so i remember the steps well. This job is a pain in the rear in a garage with minimal tools.
  5. hmmm wonder if I could install all the parts and then local dealer could easily program
  6. I just recently installed leather seats in my LT and was curious what I would need to install heated seats on the rear seat? It would probably only be the seat cushion which would be fairly easy since those were the easiest to put the leather on. I have storage in the back of the seat which wouldnt work for the back part to be heated most likely anyways. while taking out the back of the back seat I noticed a plug behind it that had nothing plugged into it and just maybe thats where it would plug in???
  7. I finished this project. Wasn't too terrible expect for the front middle seat/console that you had to tear down almost completely to do it. I did a roadwire kit and you have to cut out holes in the head rest for the buttons and you have to cut holes in the top of the seats for the head rest pins as well as the middle seat/console you had to cut several places on it. I was nervous I was going to cut somewhere i shouldnt and I think you have to cut on Katzkin kits as well but I think they give you lines for limits of where to cut.
  8. Finished changing my cloth seat covers out to leather covers in my LT Crew Cab which front jump seat that has storage in the arm rest and under the seat. Also the rear seat has a fold down arm rest and rear seat storage. I used a Roadwire seat kit which is what I had on my 2014 but I paid to have it installed. I like the Roadwire because they are as good of quality as Katzin I believe and the ones I have do not have preforations/holes in them for dirt to get trapped in. I am happy with the outcome but glad this project is done. The rear seat storage and armrest were not shown on any videos online that I could find so I had to kind of figure them out on my own which made it tougher. The middle front console/seat was a nightmare kind of and took as much time as it did for the rest of the truck because you have to tear it almost completely down to get the leather on. I had to take some parts back off due to not remembering exactly where each piece went and reinstall sometimes more than once. The only things I would say pay attention to for others wanting to do this which is what I started out doing and thats organizing the hardware in a way you can easily determine where it goes when putting everything back together. Also for the folding console for the bench front seat people there is a spring that has a little bit of load on it that is on one side of the pivot point so when you take it off compress the spring with pliers or something to carefully remove it because when I took mine off it popped off and broke a little plastic shroud that was around it which luckily wasn't a crucial piece I don't think because it seems to be operating properly. The other two things due to the leather being thicker is the armrest in front is a little different when opening and closing and the rear armrest isn't a nice snug fit but hopefully overtime the leather will loosen up and it will fit better. Also, the plastic cover plate in the back seat that you see when the armrest is folded down has two plastic pins/rivets at the top that hold it in and I have got to find 2 new ones that are a little longer because of the thicker leather material.
  9. Following. I am changing cloth seats to leather seats in my truck and noticed a little water on driver side down in like a little trough under the door "sill"
  10. I had 2" lower and swapped for 2.5" because i wanted a little more after 2" and the 2" was under strut and I wanted 2.5" upper strut based on what i have researched.
  11. I just started my leather install last night. Doing a little at the time. I got the back of the rear seat out and the cloth cover off except on the rear storage doors and the arm rest. Not sure exactly how they are going to come off yet because all the videos online are with back seats that dont have rear storage or armrest. Anyone done the install that has the rear storage in the back of the seats and arm rest?
  12. anyone done the install that has rear seat storage and arm rest? are there any tricks working around that ?
  13. I was going to buy a leather seat kit today online but I can not find any that are solid. I prefer not to have the holes in them for dirt and stuff to get in. Does anyone know a link to solid ones that I can purchase on ebay or something? because all I see our perforated ones. I want to do the install myself on a 2020 LT crew cab with 3 passenger front storage in top and under console as well as armrest and storage in backseat. I prefer katzkin but will settle with roadwire or OEM that isnt damaged or has missing parts.
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